Re: [RBW] IQ-X Headlight

[Lungimsam]

Eric,
Does this light have the cutoff whereby it puts the light on the road but not 
in oncoming drivers' eyes?

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Lungimsam]

Im also wanting to dyno light my other bike.
I have a SON hub/edeluxe ii combo on my Bleriot.
I am thinking of SP/edeluxe ii or that new light Eric reviewed. I forgot whi 
makes it. Alotta the light names sound the same and confuse me.

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[RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Use Help

[George Schick]

Gentlemen, one and all:  just a comment regarding an apparently bygone era 
when things were simpler.  It used to be the case back when rear hubs were 
120mm - 126mm, BB's were asymmetrical.  That is, there was about another 
5mm or so of spindle on the drive side vs. the non-drive.  This difference 
made it much easier to match a crankset up with the freewheel to get a good 
chainline.  And that spacing maintained a good low Q-factor!  Then along 
came the 130mm - 135mm era where the rear dropouts were spread wide enough 
to accommodate 9 - 11 speed cassettes and the BB's became symmetrical to 
accommodate the wider chain stays (which in the case of MTB's seemed 
irrelevant since the crank arms were curved outward to provide for a wider 
"Q-factor" on purpose) and still provide wide enough crank arm clearance on 
either side of the frame.  So, all of this is simply to say that in this 
day and age one is going to run into this kind of problem over and over 
again unless the crankset manf. specifically recommends a BB spindle width 
for a specific rear dropout width.  And it's all across the board!!  I have 
a Surly 1x1, which comes with a 173mm BB shell and a defacto 135mm rear 
dropout width (since it's classified as a MTB) that required 1.5mm of 
spacers on the drive side of the BB just to get the single speed chainline 
even halfway straight and to get the pedals more or less equal distance 
from their associated L & R chain stays.

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 5:33:26 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Just about all bottom brackets that vaguely look the same as your White 
> Industries BB, all are the same size bearing and so have interchangeable 
> spindles.  So, your White Industries spindle is a nice replacement for my 
> old Syncros BB, for example.  What I'm getting at is the usefulness of that 
> spindle is pretty broad and asa result the resale value is pretty decent. 
>  But if you can afford to hold onto it, you might thank yourself in some 
> future project, too. 
>
> best
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:27:57 PM UTC-7, Mattt wrote:
>>
>> Gentlemen,
>>
>> Thank you for the advice.  I am going to go with a new spindle length and 
>> not try to rig it and have issues.
>>
>>
>> Matt 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[René Sterental]

You can try Google Photos. I don't think they compress iPhone photos
because they are under the resolution threshold for compression vs paying
to avoid compression.

René

On Friday, April 1, 2016, cyclotourist  wrote:

> flickr
>
> On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Shoji Takahashi <
> shoji.takaha...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> For my iPhone pics, I've been uploading to Amazon Cloud Drive. It's free
>> with Prime membership. Unlimited, and I don't think there is a lose of
>> resolution. I open the Amazon cloud app, and it uploads.
>> Here's some info:
>> http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=201480950
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 1:21:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>>>
>>> Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
>>> Must be:
>>> 1. Free
>>> 2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.
>>>
>>> What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos.
>>> Must be storing them somewhere?
>>>
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>
>
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[cyclotourist]

flickr

On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 12:11 PM, Shoji Takahashi 
wrote:

> For my iPhone pics, I've been uploading to Amazon Cloud Drive. It's free
> with Prime membership. Unlimited, and I don't think there is a lose of
> resolution. I open the Amazon cloud app, and it uploads.
> Here's some info:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=201480950
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 1:21:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
>> Must be:
>> 1. Free
>> 2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.
>>
>> What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos.
>> Must be storing them somewhere?
>>
> --
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David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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Re: [RBW] flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[cyclotourist]

Ron, those are cool. Sorta of like a Lambda meets a VP 001. I notice they
are made by VP, so that makes sense.

On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 3:55 AM, Ron Mc  wrote:

> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though
> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost
> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support
> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But
> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with
> any shoes.
> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you
> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your
> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.
>
> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering
> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are
> merely 95mm long.
> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were
> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). .
> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these
> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also
> have to say they're worth the price.
>
> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for
> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a
> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps
> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on
> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews
> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for
> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting
> weights and  mashing.
> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
>
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"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

But I'm also doing this on long-distance bikes, not beach cruisers. 
Probably unorthodox and I get strange looks from the pack at water stops. 
 And plenty spirited rides.  And in Merrells, not clipless cycling shoes. 
 (I do wear cycling shoes on the drop-bar road bike, exclusively, and still 
like my clips).  I've had people, including my best friend, preach at me 
about how much I need clipless since 1980, (they preached index, too, which 
I finally came around to with a compact double and long narrow-step 
cassette)
btw, wore out my last Merrells (heel support started coming apart), and my 
newest size 12 Merrells weigh 6 oz., and they breathe so well you can see 
through the fabric mesh.  

Yes, I'm throwing out my experience and showing the alternative, which I 
think those riding more upright bikes, or maybe experiencing foot pain, 
should consider.  
(the only time I experienced foot pain was riding shoes without shanks in 
the toe clip pedals - the wrong shoes)

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 5:06:40 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> There's nothing fundamentally wrong with alternate foot positions.  If you 
> like riding with the center of your foot over the pedal spindle on one of 
> your bikes, that's great for you.  In 2016, it's unorthodox for spirited 
> riding, and common for beach cruisers.  
>
> You are right that I never do over 100 mile rides without cycling shoes. 
>  I do 40 mile rides in floppy tennis shoes on platform pedals all the time, 
> but I've never done a 100 mile ride in tennies, so I don't know.  On 40 
> mile rides I have none of these arch straining problems that you have 
> experienced.  
>
> I now understand you aren't making any recommendations, and are just 
> reporting what works for you, and advising other to do what works for them. 
>  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, Ca
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Bill Lindsay]

Just about all bottom brackets that vaguely look the same as your White 
Industries BB, all are the same size bearing and so have interchangeable 
spindles.  So, your White Industries spindle is a nice replacement for my 
old Syncros BB, for example.  What I'm getting at is the usefulness of that 
spindle is pretty broad and asa result the resale value is pretty decent. 
 But if you can afford to hold onto it, you might thank yourself in some 
future project, too. 

best

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:27:57 PM UTC-7, Mattt wrote:
>
> Gentlemen,
>
> Thank you for the advice.  I am going to go with a new spindle length and 
> not try to rig it and have issues.
>
>
> Matt 
>

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[RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Mattt]

Gentlemen,

Thank you for the advice.  I am going to go with a new spindle length and 
not try to rig it and have issues.


Matt 

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[RBW] Re: Steerer Tube Honing

[Dave Johnston]

I had the same issue with the Heron Touring when I firsted assembled it and 
had a conversation with Todd Kuzma about it. Yes the steerer is butted. I 
just used a early Tech Dlx stem which is a cm shorter than the current tech 
dlx. At the time I wanted the bars an inch below the saddle, but as I age I 
have raised the stem enough that I could probably use a Technomic again.

-Dave 

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Bill Lindsay]

There's nothing fundamentally wrong with alternate foot positions.  If you 
like riding with the center of your foot over the pedal spindle on one of 
your bikes, that's great for you.  In 2016, it's unorthodox for spirited 
riding, and common for beach cruisers.  

You are right that I never do over 100 mile rides without cycling shoes.  I 
do 40 mile rides in floppy tennis shoes on platform pedals all the time, 
but I've never done a 100 mile ride in tennies, so I don't know.  On 40 
mile rides I have none of these arch straining problems that you have 
experienced.  

I now understand you aren't making any recommendations, and are just 
reporting what works for you, and advising other to do what works for them. 
 

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, Ca

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 2:24:36 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Bill, I'm not recommending that you do anything.  
> But here are two different bikes with two different riding positions.  
>
>
> 
>
> up high over the pedals, strongly leaning forward (on core muscles, 
> hopefully), riding on the ball of my feet, and need shoes with good shanks 
> so i don't strain my arches.  
>
>
>
> 
>
> sit behind the pedals and down a bit, arches of feet centered over axles 
> of long pedals, doesn't matter what I wear for shoes, but also have the 
> ability to move my feet forward on the pedals.  
>
> People are so big on alternate hand positions.  
>
> Is there something wrong with alternate feet positions?  I've ridden 
> 10,000 mi with my feet centered on pedals, and I like it.  
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Ramboullet

[Dave Johnston]

Ram's came in 58cm C-T, but Romulus (Rom) came in 57cm C-T

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 2:36:38 PM UTC-4, Bob Davis wrote:
>
> 57 or 58 frame size 
> Frame or whole bike. 
>
> Bob 
> Houston, Texas

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

and a 3rd bike with riding position in between the other two 



but it also benefits from long pedals - the Grip Kings are in this photo,  

I swapped them for the VP001, but now they have have narrower Blackspire, 
which give better clearance than the VP001

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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Deacon Patrick]

But see, Eric, we got the infomercial foot. An arch is great for stability 
while standing, but we also need to run across the savanna to persistence 
hunt our Kudu. Our foot is not just an arch, but an arch that becomes a 
windlass mechanism for storing and returning energy. Grin. I'm not sure how 
the physics of that work on a bike pedal, but the experience of riding most 
of the time for me is very close to the experience of running, not weight 
lifting. Weight lifting kicks in only for the steep climbs.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 2:56:34 PM UTC-6, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Arches support the load by distributing the forces to the ends of the 
> arch, not the middle. I suspect feet (which are a natural arch structure) 
> operate on the same principle. In the case of the foot, the two "ends" are 
> the heel and the ball of the foot.
>
> [image: image1.JPG]
>
> In the same vein, this is why saddles like the Brooks B17 support the 
> weight of your body on the natural arches in your pelvis, not on a more 
> sensitive area between them ...
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com 
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

Bill, I'm not recommending that you do anything.  
But here are two different bikes with two different riding positions.  



up high over the pedals, strongly leaning forward (on core muscles, 
hopefully), riding on the ball of my feet, and need shoes with good shanks 
so i don't strain my arches.  




sit behind the pedals and down a bit, arches of feet centered over axles of 
long pedals, doesn't matter what I wear for shoes, but also have the 
ability to move my feet forward on the pedals.  

People are so big on alternate hand positions.  

Is there something wrong with alternate feet positions?  I've ridden 10,000 
mi with my feet centered on pedals, and I like it.  



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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Bill Lindsay]

Ron, I get it that you are recommending that I move my foot about two 
inches forward on my pedals, meaning that I'd need a much different saddle 
height and maybe even a different frame size between riding with SPDs vs 
platform pedals.  I understand you are recommending it for my own good, and 
I'm grateful that you care that much about me and my feet.  I'm pointing 
out that it's a very unorthodox, even radical, idea.  

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 2:03:52 PM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Bill did you learn that way, or did you not have a choice?  Flat pedals 
> give you a choice of what shoes you wear.  
> If you were riding clipless, I promise there were shanks in your shoes 
> that were supporting your arches - they're built into the shoes.  .  
> This isn't my vendor, we came to the same conclusion independently.  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Steve Palincsar]

Well, the point is if you place your arch firmly on the pedal the way 
kids everywhere ride bikes with rubber pedals & no retention (i.e., 
using the edge of your shoe's heel to keep the foot located) you are 
going to be loading your arch right square in the middle, under the 
keystone in your illustration.


On 04/01/2016 04:56 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
Arches support the load by distributing the forces to the ends of the 
arch, not the middle. I suspect feet (which are a natural arch 
structure) operate on the same principle. In the case of the foot, the 
two "ends" are the heel and the ball of the foot.


image1.JPG

In the same vein, this is why saddles like the Brooks B17 support the 
weight of your body on the natural arches in your pelvis, not on a 
more sensitive area between them ...


--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com 
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:48 PM, Steve Palincsar > wrote:


and who walks loading their arch?  Sometimes it's hard to tell April 
1 from any other, ordinary day around here...


On 04/01/2016 04:43 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:


We all learned to position our foot over the pedal like this:




Your flat-pedal vendor wants us to move that big toe knuckle all the 
way forward to the leading edge of our huge flat platform pedals.  I 
might be into that foot-pedal positioning if I was riding a beach 
cruiser at Burning Man:





But for normal riding?  I think that's a little too radical for my 
tastes.  Just because I use my heel when I walk does not necessarily 
mean I must load my heel when pedaling a bicycle.



Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA




On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:55:10 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS
Lambda).  Though narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not
quite grippy, at almost 120mm long, they center very nicely
under your arch and give you support mostly from ball to heel -
maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But they gives you
great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with any
shoes.
Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your
foot, you really need to be in shoes with solid shanks,
otherwise part of your pedaling energy goes into straining (and
injuring) your arches.

Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide
endangering clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm
wide now, but most are merely 95mm long.
Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because
they were "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near
freakish 12mm thick). . Aside from a too early (warranty) axle
click, I've really loved these pedals.  With the way they're
holding up now on the new axle, I'll also have to say they're
worth the price.

Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal
now for about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm
long - this is a serious platform, and the narrow width (by
current standards) keeps cornering clearance reasonably safe.
They have a pretty good argument on their home page why long is
better, and they're getting pretty good reviews (though they are
heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for running
and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for
lifting weights and  mashing.
http://pedalinginnovations.com/ 

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

Bill did you learn that way, or did you not have a choice?  Flat pedals 
give you a choice of what shoes you wear.  
If you were riding clipless, I promise there were shanks in your shoes that 
were supporting your arches - they're built into the shoes.  .  
This isn't my vendor, we came to the same conclusion independently.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Bill Lindsay]

Eric, I've seen you pedalling a bicycle before.  Your heel was not pressing 
directly on the pedal.  Your foot to pedal relationship was "normal".  Have 
you changed?  Did you have to lower your saddle a lot when you shifted your 
foot a few inches forward?

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 1:56:34 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Arches support the load by distributing the forces to the ends of the 
> arch, not the middle. I suspect feet (which are a natural arch structure) 
> operate on the same principle. In the case of the foot, the two "ends" are 
> the heel and the ball of the foot.
>
> [image: image1.JPG]
>
> In the same vein, this is why saddles like the Brooks B17 support the 
> weight of your body on the natural arches in your pelvis, not on a more 
> sensitive area between them ...
>
> --Eric N
> www.CampyOnly.com 
> CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com 
> Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:48 PM, Steve Palincsar  
> wrote:
>
> and who walks loading their arch?  Sometimes it's hard to tell April 1 
> from any other, ordinary day around here...
>
> On 04/01/2016 04:43 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> We all learned to position our foot over the pedal like this:
>
>
>
> 
>
> Your flat-pedal vendor wants us to move that big toe knuckle all the way 
> forward to the leading edge of our huge flat platform pedals.  I might be 
> into that foot-pedal positioning if I was riding a beach cruiser at Burning 
> Man:
>
>
>
> 
>
> But for normal riding?  I think that's a little too radical for my tastes. 
>  Just because I use my heel when I walk does not necessarily mean I must 
> load my heel when pedaling a bicycle.  
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:55:10 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote: 
>>
>> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
>> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
>> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
>> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
>> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
>> any shoes.   
>> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
>> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
>> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>>
>> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
>> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
>> merely 95mm long.  
>> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
>> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
>> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
>> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
>> have to say they're worth the price.  
>>
>> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
>> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
>> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
>> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
>> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
>> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
>> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
>> weights and  mashing.  
>> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Eric Norris]

Arches support the load by distributing the forces to the ends of the arch, not 
the middle. I suspect feet (which are a natural arch structure) operate on the 
same principle. In the case of the foot, the two "ends" are the heel and the 
ball of the foot.



In the same vein, this is why saddles like the Brooks B17 support the weight of 
your body on the natural arches in your pelvis, not on a more sensitive area 
between them ...

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Apr 1, 2016, at 1:48 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> and who walks loading their arch?  Sometimes it's hard to tell April 1 from 
> any other, ordinary day around here...
> 
>> On 04/01/2016 04:43 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>> We all learned to position our foot over the pedal like this:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Your flat-pedal vendor wants us to move that big toe knuckle all the way 
>> forward to the leading edge of our huge flat platform pedals.  I might be 
>> into that foot-pedal positioning if I was riding a beach cruiser at Burning 
>> Man:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> But for normal riding?  I think that's a little too radical for my tastes.  
>> Just because I use my heel when I walk does not necessarily mean I must load 
>> my heel when pedaling a bicycle.  
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Lindsay
>> 
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:55:10 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>>> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
>>> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
>>> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
>>> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
>>> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
>>> any shoes.  
>>> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
>>> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
>>> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>>> 
>>> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
>>> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
>>> merely 95mm long.  
>>> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
>>> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
>>> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
>>> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
>>> have to say they're worth the price.  
>>> 
>>> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
>>> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
>>> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
>>> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
>>> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
>>> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
>>> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
>>> weights and  mashing.  
>>> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Steve Palincsar]

and who walks loading their arch?  Sometimes it's hard to tell April 1 
from any other, ordinary day around here...


On 04/01/2016 04:43 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:


We all learned to position our foot over the pedal like this:




Your flat-pedal vendor wants us to move that big toe knuckle all the 
way forward to the leading edge of our huge flat platform pedals.  I 
might be into that foot-pedal positioning if I was riding a beach 
cruiser at Burning Man:





But for normal riding?  I think that's a little too radical for my 
tastes.  Just because I use my heel when I walk does not necessarily 
mean I must load my heel when pedaling a bicycle.



Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA




On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:55:10 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).
 Though narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite
grippy, at almost 120mm long, they center very nicely under your
arch and give you support mostly from ball to heel - maybe not
quite with my ice skate feet.  But they gives you great mash,
great spin, and low strain on your arches with any shoes.
Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot,
you really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part
of your pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your
arches.

Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide
endangering clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm
wide now, but most are merely 95mm long.
Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because
they were "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near
freakish 12mm thick). . Aside from a too early (warranty) axle
click, I've really loved these pedals.  With the way they're
holding up now on the new axle, I'll also have to say they're
worth the price.

Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal
now for about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm
long - this is a serious platform, and the narrow width (by
current standards) keeps cornering clearance reasonably safe. They
have a pretty good argument on their home page why long is better,
and they're getting pretty good reviews (though they are heavy).
 Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for running and
jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting
weights and  mashing.
http://pedalinginnovations.com/ 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Ramboullet

[dougP]

There's a blue 56 cm FS in Orange County, CA.  If that's of interest 
contact me direct & I'll dig up the info.

dougP

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:36:38 AM UTC-7, Bob Davis wrote:
>
> 57 or 58 frame size 
> Frame or whole bike. 
>
> Bob 
> Houston, Texas

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Re: [RBW] Re: Another Appaloosa Rider

[masmojo]

Regarding Bosco's (Bullmoose or not) I have found myself that handlebar height 
makes a huge difference! I was not digging mine, so I raised them a little 
(1/2") & they felt better,  but I was still unsure.  Then I raised them a 
little more & when I say a little I mean like 1/4" & dang it was like flicking 
a light switch! They just suddenly worked for me! 
So anywayz sorry for hijacking your thread Eunice. 

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Bill Lindsay]

We all learned to position our foot over the pedal like this:




Your flat-pedal vendor wants us to move that big toe knuckle all the way 
forward to the leading edge of our huge flat platform pedals.  I might be 
into that foot-pedal positioning if I was riding a beach cruiser at Burning 
Man:




But for normal riding?  I think that's a little too radical for my tastes. 
 Just because I use my heel when I walk does not necessarily mean I must 
load my heel when pedaling a bicycle.  


Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA




On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 3:55:10 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
> any shoes.  
> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>
> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
> merely 95mm long.  
> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
> have to say they're worth the price.  
>
> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
> weights and  mashing.  
> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
>

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[masmojo]

I am not going to throw out too much advice here,  because I am relatively new 
ti the dynamo lighting myself.
I recently built up a SON hub on my Clementine with the B 50 lux light and I 
amplenty pleased. Plenty of people here suggesting Edelux and other high end 
stuff which rightly should work pretty good so OK. But, what if you are on a 
budget? When I got my light someone advised me to get a light that is at least 
30lux. That is approximately the line between just being seen and safely 
lighting the road ahead! It was good advice. 
Along those lines I've found a really cheap light that I hooked up to a friend 
of mines bike which is really impressive for what it costs and in my opinion is 
a great starter light. It's the Union Blueline 35, #4268-35. As you can guess 
it's 35lux, but the beam has a nice brightness, evenness & coverage.  They are 
hard to find here,  but I found a seller on epay that has them for approx $21 
SHIPPED! (From Europe!) I liked it so much I bought another for myself!
Regarding the concept? I love it and I am a convert for life,  I am busy 
converting as much of my fleet as is practical over to dynamo lights.  You too 
will love it! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

yeah, and heels have been around just as long, too  - you guys never step 
on your heels, you just walk on the balls of your feet?  

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Re: [RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Eric Norris]

I'll weigh in with an observation that bicycles weren't around when the human 
foot evolved. The specific needs of cycling might call for support ("binding"?) 
that wasn't needed when Man started walking.

--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Apr 1, 2016, at 12:57 PM, Mike in WA  wrote:
> 
> "but if foot muscles are weakened by wearing modern foot binding devices, 
> that efficiency decreases because the foot is not strong enough to function 
> as God intended"
> 
> Preach, Deacon! I fear that arch support could become the next helmet debate, 
> but I am with you on this. Minimalist shoes feel fantastic on a bike you 
> "just ride". 
> 
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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Mike in WA]

"but if foot muscles are weakened by wearing modern foot binding devices, that 
efficiency decreases because the foot is not strong enough to function as God 
intended"

Preach, Deacon! I fear that arch support could become the next helmet debate, 
but I am with you on this. Minimalist shoes feel fantastic on a bike you "just 
ride". 

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[RBW] Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Keith Muller]

If it is a new White Ind BB, the will swap you spindles.

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Shoji Takahashi]

For my iPhone pics, I've been uploading to Amazon Cloud Drive. It's free 
with Prime membership. Unlimited, and I don't think there is a lose of 
resolution. I open the Amazon cloud app, and it uploads. 
Here's some info:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=201480950




On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 1:21:17 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
> Must be:
> 1. Free
> 2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.
>
> What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos. Must 
> be storing them somewhere?
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Deacon Patrick]

Back when I researched this to decide how we would go, I found that free 
services (not surprisingly) have fewer redundancy and are more risky places 
to have as a repository of photos. Perhaps that's changed, but I'd be very 
surprised if so.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:21:17 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
> Must be:
> 1. Free
> 2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.
>
> What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos. Must 
> be storing them somewhere?
>

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[RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Lungimsam]

Ok

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[RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[WETH]

Don't know.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Ramboullet

[allenmichael]

I saw an orange 58 on SF craigslist.

Michael Allen

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:36:38 AM UTC-7, Bob Davis wrote:
>
> 57 or 58 frame size 
> Frame or whole bike. 
>
> Bob 
> Houston, Texas

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[RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Lungimsam]

And no compression when using the auto uploader?

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[RBW] WTB: Ramboullet

[Bob Davis]

57 or 58 frame size
Frame or whole bike. 

Bob
Houston, Texas

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[RBW] Re: FS: (2) Brooks B17 saddles

[Sean on Bike]

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/66219337@N06/

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 10:31:12 AM UTC-5, Sean on Bike wrote:
>
> In addition to Loyal Designs bag, Nigel Smythe bag and Mark's rack, I 
>  also have two black Brooks B17 saddles in excellent condition. $75 each 
> plus shipping. 
>
>

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[RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[WETH]

I use Flickr for bike related photos, they do not compress your originals:  
http://petapixel.com/2015/06/08/flickr-decreased-quality-and-increased-compression-and-users-arent-happy/
But I also have a Smugmug account where I have been storing all of my photos 
for 10 years.  They make beautiful prints as well, if you ever print photos.

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Deacon Patrick]

We pay the Apple tax. It just works and syncs. So, not free.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:21:17 AM UTC-6, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
> Must be:
> 1. Free
> 2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.
>
> What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos. Must 
> be storing them somewhere?
>

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[RBW] What do Rivendell Riders use for online photo storage?

[Lungimsam]

Iphone full. Need online place to store photos.
Must be:
1. Free
2. Same quality as pics on phone. Dont want to lose resolution.

What do you all use? I notice you all have lots of Rivrelated photos. Must be 
storing them somewhere?

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[RBW] Re: For the love of top tubes

[dougP]

Looks like on of those drying racks you see in European hotel bathrooms.  
Don't see the cord though.

dougP

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 8:20:35 AM UTC-7, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hello Group,
>
> I do love my 68 cm double top tube Bantam (http://www.bantambicycles.com/)
>
> However, this seems a little over the top.
>
>
> http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/04/01/first-look-brooklyn-bicycle-co-releases-fulton-worlds-first-quintuple-top-tube-frame/#more-125859
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Curtis
>

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[RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[Bill Lindsay]

"what do you think a reasonable resale value would be?"

I haven't seen them, but probably somewhere between $200 and $450 depending 
on condition

"Also, I'm interested in your opinion about Phil hubs, yes...are they worth 
the price?  Is it the smoothness, reliability, or what?  I could understand 
if you were doing a round the world tour you would want the most reliable 
hub available, but for most of us mere mortals, does it really make a 
difference?"

If you have money, don't mind spending it, don't mind paying extra for 
cosmetic appearance and feel extra good about buying products designed and 
manufactured in the USA, then yes they are worth the price.  If you are 
poor, or thrifty, or somebody who always searches for the best value, the 
most bang for the buck, and don't particularly care about the country of 
origin, then no they are probably not worth the price.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[Tim Gavin]

>From my observations:

Phil hubs are sturdy and easy to service.  The Field Serviceable Axle makes
it easy to open up the hub, and the modular design makes it easy to swap
endcaps and change the axle length.  The sealed bearings are easy to
replace.

But, Phil hubs do not have any type of outer seal to protect those sealed
bearings; they're exposed.  Plus, Phil seems to have problems with its
cassette freehubs (Phil freewheel hubs are bulletproof).


I bought my Riv Road Standard used, and it had Phil hubs (rear freewheel)
laced to a set of CR-18s with almost no brake track left.  I re-laced the
Phil hubs to a set of 650b Synergy rims; I used the offset rear to make a
nearly dishless wheel.
However, I only put ~1000 miles on those wheels before I built a new 650b
PL23 set with a Shimano dynamo front hub and a Velo Orange Gran Cru Touring
rear cassette hub.
I like that the Gran Cru hub has completely tool-free disassembly, and its
sealed bearings are hidden behind end caps that protect them a little bit.


On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 10:41 AM, pano  wrote:

> Phil hubs are of very high quality however whether or not they are really
> worth the price they comand, depends entirely on your circumstances and
> your beliefs. I personally find the Shimano Ultegra and XT or the Campy
> Record hubs to be the best value on hubs.
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 6:51:27 PM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:
>
>> Hola to all,
>> When I bought my Ram used it came with these wheels:
>>
>> rims: Bontrager Fairlane asym
>> hubs: Phil 36 hole, F & R
>>
>> I know that Phil hubs are quite expensive, but are they really worth it?
>> I've used good quality wheels, much less expensive,  made with sealed
>> bearing hubs and never had any issues. I did notice that these wheels are
>> quite heavy.
>>
>> I've since converted to 650 x 42, which I just love, so these are hanging
>> in the storage unit downstairs.  Any info is much appreciated.
>>
>> Alan
>> NYC
>>
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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Justin August]

Deac-
I'm board with your observations. I'd try out these pedals if I hadn't just 
made a commitment to a much larger structure in which to house all my bike 
goodies.

-J

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 7:06:41 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Sweet! And, hey! They're getting there and I love that they are applying 
> running form analysis to pedaling. Looking at what they say on their 
> website (http://pedalinginnovations.com)...
>
> This is absolutely true when running: "You only push through the ball of 
> the foot when your foot needs to break contact with the ground, like when 
> you run or jump."
>
> This is absolutely true when standing and lifting: "But your foot acts 
> much differently if it doesn’t come off the ground, like when deadlifting 
> in the gym or picking up a heavy box. In this case your foot needs to stay 
> balanced between the heel and ball of the foot so you can apply force with 
> a strong, stable foot."
>
> But EITHER is true on the bike. We CAN pedal with efficiency using the 
> ball of our feet. Our body works to "push off" the "ground" but instead of 
> lifting us up it mushed the pedal down. Very efficient, smooth, and 
> biologically sound. But this is most efficient with equivalent force to 
> when we are running, which is at it's greatest when execrating. Try 
> running, barefoot, as fast as you can, then "coast" to maintain that speed 
> (or just imagine this in your head, but actually doing it will give you the 
> direct feel, and that will help in applying this to the bike later). Note 
> that the force is greatest with your initial push off as it must be to set 
> 100-300 pounds in motion. After that first stroke (stride), inertia is on 
> your side as your weight is moving forward. Keep the force up with each 
> stride and you will accelerate faster. But the goal here is not to overcome 
> gravity and go up (unless you are climbing, and then there is some of 
> that), the goal is to only defy gravity enough to go sideways to gravity 
> while flying briefly. Not much force is required. This is VERY similar to 
> the pedal stroke on a bicycle and the reason riding forefoot to the pedal 
> IS efficient (but if foot muscles are weakened by wearing modern foot 
> binding devices, that efficiency decreases because the foot is not strong 
> enough to function as God intended). Go ahead and stop your sprint now. 
> Grin.
>
> Now that you're huffing and puffing in the middle of the road or trail and 
> everyone is staring at you and your barefeet, jump up and down. High as you 
> can. Same thing. You go off the ball of your foot.
>
> Now, pick up a log or a rock or a passing pedestrian. Something heavier 
> than you would jump with, or even walk with. You're just going to stand 
> there. Holding 500 pounds. On your mid-foot and heel. This IS the most 
> stable position when not in motion. This is the position that affords us 
> the greatest power. Put the little old lady you picked up (or two, if 
> you're that strong), and set them on their way with a hearty thank you, 
> assuring them they have participated in increasing the experiential 
> knowledge of the world.
>
> Practical application: 90+% of the time, I ride with my forefoot (not 
> toes, ball of foot) over the pedal axel. It is smooth and efficient and has 
> plenty of power for most riding everywhere but climbing up steep slopes. 
> When I stand to pedal, I shift to my mid-foot over the axel, keep my knees 
> as bent as I can and rock my weight from side to side, more akin to the 
> weight lifter than the runner as I pull up on the bar with both hands as 
> each foot, with my body weight over it, pushes down on the pedal. This is 
> for 12% grade or higher. Most would never need it.
>
> Conclusion: Great pedal. Solid marketing. Poor logic and reason of 
> conclusion based on the facts and realities of running, weight lifting, and 
> when and were bicycle pedaling is like which one of those.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick (who uses ALL the width of the VP Vice, and wouldn't mind the 
> length of the Catalyst when standing to climb.)
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 4:55:10 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
>> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
>> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[John Phillips]

I can see the benefits of a long & narrow pedal in concept, I like the 
shape of the Grip Kings, but it seems to me that the benefits could only 
truly be realized if these pedals were sold in sizes to match shoe sizes. 
Otherwise, a one-size-fits-all pedal is going to be too long for small 
feet, and too short for big feet. This pedal isn't going to be a better 
pedal except for those with Goldilocks feet.

And speaking of Goldilocks, should I buy the limited edition gold pedals, 
or blue pedals to match my Homer?  ;)

John

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[RBW] Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Bill Lindsay]

Your best choice would be to buy a new spindle that is the right length. Your 
cheapest choice that is still a good choice is to trade with somebody. A bottom 
bracket that is both the right length and will last for 5+ years is twenty 
bucks or so. Sell your too short unit, buy the right sized unit and buy 
yourself lunch with the extra money. 

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[RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[pano]

Phil hubs are of very high quality however whether or not they are really 
worth the price they comand, depends entirely on your circumstances and 
your beliefs. I personally find the Shimano Ultegra and XT or the Campy 
Record hubs to be the best value on hubs.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 6:51:27 PM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:
>
> Hola to all,
> When I bought my Ram used it came with these wheels:
>
> rims: Bontrager Fairlane asym
> hubs: Phil 36 hole, F & R
>
> I know that Phil hubs are quite expensive, but are they really worth it? 
>  I've used good quality wheels, much less expensive,  made with sealed 
> bearing hubs and never had any issues. I did notice that these wheels are 
> quite heavy.
>
> I've since converted to 650 x 42, which I just love, so these are hanging 
> in the storage unit downstairs.  Any info is much appreciated.
>
> Alan
> NYC
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For the love of top tubes

[Curtis McKenzie]

April fools?  What? I just sent in my order for the five top tube bike.

On Fri, Apr 1, 2016 at 8:32 AM, Philip Kim  wrote:

> april fools!
>
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:20:35 AM UTC-4, Curtis wrote:
>>
>> Hello Group,
>>
>> I do love my 68 cm double top tube Bantam (http://www.bantambicycles.com/
>> )
>>
>> However, this seems a little over the top.
>>
>>
>> http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/04/01/first-look-brooklyn-bicycle-co-releases-fulton-worlds-first-quintuple-top-tube-frame/#more-125859
>>
>> Enjoy,
>>
>> Curtis
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 56 cm Glorius, periwinkle

[Jeremy Tavan]

This is the right size frame for me, I've always wanted a mixte, and this 
one is absolutely beautiful. If I hadn't just commissioned a nice 
porteur/city bike from my local bike shop, I'd be jumping all over this 
(and maybe the Rosco...). As it is, I think I need more bike storage space 
before I can collect more bikes. Sigh. If it doesn't sell soon, though, I 
could see it ending up here.

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> A 56 Glorius would probably do fine for PBH's from about 80 to 87.  
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:21:34 PM UTC-7, gentleman mark wrote:
>>
>> What size PBH does 56 take? 
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 7:20:58 PM UTC-4, Dave C wrote:
>>>
>>> 56 cm Rivendell Glorius Mixte (periwinkle) for sale. Pictures will be 
>>> forthcoming Wednesday.
>>>
>>> My wife is selling her Glorius, purchased new in 2005. She used it 
>>> infrequently over the years since she primarily rides her Romulus and 29er 
>>> mountain bike. She would like to get a cross bike for events and some 
>>> races, so has decided to part with this beloved bike. She has been flirting 
>>> with the idea of selling it for a year, but every time she cleans it up she 
>>> once again falls in love with its design and beauty. Grant truly hit a home 
>>> run with this bike. We recently replaced the rear cassette and chain, and I 
>>> put on new skinwall Gran Bois Cypres tires. Those were the first tires 
>>> replacements the bike has received after the original Panaracer Col de la 
>>> Vie tires (which should tell you how little use the bike has seen over the 
>>> years). It was always garaged. While pictures show the Brooks B67 and Nitto 
>>> pedals, we are keeping those.
>>>
>>> There are some paint chips on the rear seatstays, and minor blemishes 
>>> (one on the head tube, one of the stickers has a light scratch on it). I 
>>> took a picture of the chipped areas on the stay.
>>>
>>> We are asking $2000. If you are interested, for $80 more we will include 
>>> both the black Blackburn rack (nothing fancy, but light and solid) and the 
>>> Rivendell Adam bag (US-made, part of the original series of saddlebags 
>>> Rivendell/Grant designed a little more than a decade ago. The bag is in 
>>> good condition, and the only blemish is a tire mark under the bag that you 
>>> obviously do not see unless you turn it upside down. It has an actual 
>>> branch instead of a dowel inside the bag, evidence of the whimsical nature 
>>> of the designer.
>>>
>>> This is a Toyo-made frame, and apparently required much more expense to 
>>> fabricate than most of the other frames. The current Riv mixtes, the 
>>> Cheviot, are made in Taiwan. I don't know if Waterford is making any mixtes 
>>> for Rivendell.
>>>
>>> Pictures
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_r8BT8U0AKcQUpRcnczMkJWRG8=sharing
>>>
>>> Glorius Build information
>>> This bike was assembled by Rivendell in 2005. 
>>> Cockpit
>>> Aluminum Albatross bars
>>> Cork grips
>>> Cotton tape, shellacked (needs a new coat), twined at ends
>>> Silver barend shifters
>>> Diatech DP 9 Pro brake levers
>>> Nitto Technomic Deluxe stem, 
>>> Shimano 600 headset
>>>
>>> Wheelset 
>>> Built by Rich of Hands on Wheels
>>> Velocity Synergy rims
>>> rear Deore LX silver hub
>>> Shimano Nexus DH3N71 front hub
>>> Gran Bois Hetre tires (new)
>>> Schwalbe 650b tubes, new
>>>
>>> Nitto "Frog" seatpost
>>>
>>> Drivetrain
>>> Deore LX rear derailleur
>>> 105 front derailleur
>>> New SRAM cassette
>>> Sugino XD triple crankset
>>>
>>> Greenfield Kickstand
>>> B Lumotec dynamo light
>>> Dia-Compe Centerpulls
>>>
>>> Optional purchase information
>>> Baggins Bag - Adam
>>> 18.1 L
>>> Total cubic inches - 1103 (including pockets)
>>>
>>> Again, here are the pics:
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_r8BT8U0AKcQUpRcnczMkJWRG8=sharing
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: For the love of top tubes

[Philip Kim]

april fools!

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 11:20:35 AM UTC-4, Curtis wrote:
>
> Hello Group,
>
> I do love my 68 cm double top tube Bantam (http://www.bantambicycles.com/)
>
> However, this seems a little over the top.
>
>
> http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/04/01/first-look-brooklyn-bicycle-co-releases-fulton-worlds-first-quintuple-top-tube-frame/#more-125859
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Curtis
>

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[RBW] FS: (2) Brooks B17 saddles

[Sean on Bike]

In addition to Loyal Designs bag, Nigel Smythe bag and Mark's rack, I  also 
have two black Brooks B17 saddles in excellent condition. $75 each plus 
shipping. 

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[RBW] Re: Romulus refurbished as 650b

[WETH]

Dear Tony,
Thanks for taking time to meet for coffee and to see the Romulus.  I enjoy your 
writing and photos as always.  Thanks for the photo of me with the bike,

Dear Michael,
I'll do my best and hope my measurements are accurate enough.

The ride is lovely, smooth and stable.  It is similar to my Atlantis with 26" 
wheels.  Clearance on the Romulus with Soma 650b x38 (35mm on my rims) tires is 
great everywhere but the chain stays. There is about 6mm clearance at the 
stays.  

For some comparison between bikes, my Atlantis (26" wheels) measures about 
275mm from the center of the crankset bolt to the ground/85 mm to ground from 
the bottom of the 170mm crank arm in 6 o'clock position (Compass 26 x 1.75 
tires), and the Romulus measures about 265mm from the center of the crankset 
bolt to the ground/78 mm to ground from the bottom of the 165mm crank arm in 6 
o'clock position (Soma 650b x38 tires).  So pedal clearance for me is fine and 
within a centimeter to the clearance on my Atlantis.  In 40 miles of riding I 
have yet to strike the pedal.  The shorter crank arm helps, and I do not notice 
a difference from 170mm to 165mm-though some are sensitive to changes in crank 
arm length. 

When I converted my Riv Road Stnd to 650b with 170mm cranks, I struck the pedal 
on occasion.  However I was vigilant, and it wasn't a problem for me as Olof 
has already written for himself.  However, not everyone would be comfortable 
with that.  When I put the Riv Road back to 700x28 tires, the ride was harsh in 
comparison to 650b.  Hope this helps.

One final observation that I made to Ron earlier in this thread, I needed every 
millimeter of reach on the Tektro R559s! On my Riv Road Stnd 650b conversion I 
didn't need the entire reach the brakes provided. FYI.

All the best,
Erl

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[RBW] For the love of top tubes

[Curtis McKenzie]

Hello Group,

I do love my 68 cm double top tube Bantam (http://www.bantambicycles.com/)

However, this seems a little over the top.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/04/01/first-look-brooklyn-bicycle-co-releases-fulton-worlds-first-quintuple-top-tube-frame/#more-125859

Enjoy,

Curtis

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[RBW] Re: FS: 56 cm Glorius, periwinkle

[Ryan Fleming]

All these nice Glorius and Wilbury photos are making me eagerly anticipate 
my new mixte. The lugs on mine won't be the same...a little less 
elaborate.. ...I'm sure it'll be a beauty when it comes though. And from 
 everything I've heard from you guys, these mixte frames are not sedate; 
they're fun and lively and they'll have that signature Rivendell ride 
quality

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 8:26:28 PM UTC-5, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
> That's sounds about right. Here's my 56cm Wilbury (same bike, different 
> name) with the saddle set for my 81.0cm PBH (saddle height is 70.5cm).
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/benzzoy/23945952852/
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:27:10 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> A 56 Glorius would probably do fine for PBH's from about 80 to 87.  
>>
>> On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 3:21:34 PM UTC-7, gentleman mark wrote:
>>>
>>> What size PBH does 56 take? 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: Loyal Designs Randonneur bag, Nigel Smythe bag, Nitto Mark’s Rack

[Sean on Bike]

Loyal Designs Randonneur bag: $180 plus shipping. 

Grey with honey color leather trim. Flawless condition, barely used. 9” H x 
10” W x 6.5” D (not including pockets).


Nigel Smythe Little Loafer (?): $100 plus shipping

Classic green tweed in very good condition.  5.5” H x 9” W x 5” D.


Nitto Mark’s Rack: $90–ships free with purchase of bag(s).

Note: only for sale in combination with above bags. 


Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/66219337@N06/


Shipping estimate: $15-20 depending on bag and distance.


Prices are for Paypal “Payment for a Friend”. 


Thanks for your interest, Sean 

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[RBW] Re: Fully Clothed Joe

[Ryan Fleming]

No...you can't have too many rivendells...I like the look of your wife's 
bike a lot

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 7:11:05 PM UTC-5, scott wrote:
>
> So, story goes like this: I went on an anti-anxiety drug in 2009 and 
> gained 75 pounds. I was already a big guy, always have been. So, in the 
> last 2 years I have lost 85 pounds (thanks in big part to the stuff Grant 
> has written). My goal is 23 pounds away. I told myself when I reached my 
> goal, I would buy myself an Atlantis. It has been something of a motivator. 
> The Joe was only twinkle in Grant's eye when I made this deal with myself. 
> So, that is my affinity for the Atlantis. However, as has been discussed on 
> the forum before, can one own too many Rivendell's? 
>Scott
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Keith Muller]

Matty,

With the White Ind BB, you need enough threads exposed on the non-drive side BB 
cup to thread on the lock ring and tighten it down.  Depending on the variance 
of width on your BB shell, you may be able to make this work.  If you can't 
effectively lock down the lock ring, you will eventually run into issues with 
the bearing preload on the BB.  That's the nice thing about Pill BBs, you can 
easily shift the BB +/- 2mm in the BB shell without any issues.

Keith

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

I can't speak for these specific pedals, but I rode Grip Kings for more 
than a year and spent almost the entire past year on Raceface Atlas - both 
oversquare pedals.  Also VP-001 for a couple of years, which are exactly 
square.  And 40 years on cage pedals.  Right now my go-fast bike has Nuevo 
Wide with Ale toeclips and Binda straps.  The whole point of the cage 
pedlals, clips and straps is to ride on the ball of your foot.  A good 60 
mile ride in the right shoes, and you're ok.  A 30 mile ride in the wrong 
shoes and your arches will be strained.  
It's not because my arches are weak as Deac has argued before, it's because 
without actual bicycle shoes with shanks, too much pedaling energy goes 
into straining your arches instead of into the road.  .  

With flat pedals, I always begin with my arches centered over the axle, and 
have ridden over 80 miles in shoes without shanks and no foot strain.  In 
my case, the shoes are Merrells.  However, it is also nice you can move 
your foot forward or back on the pedal to ride on the ball of your foot 
part of the time (especially on switchbacks where you would kick the front 
wheel), and I've even found a spin where kicking heel first uses a 
different tendon combination.  
So I'll generally say I like flat pedals with normal shoes, and I like 
solid-shank riding shoes for the whole sit-high over the pedals drop-bar 
riding position.  

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 9:09:56 AM UTC-5, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I would be interested in hearing anyone's experience with these pedals.  I 
> have issues with Morton's Neuroma and I can't decide if the forward foot 
> placement of this pedal would put more pressure on the neuroma and make it 
> worse or the fully supported arch would take enough pressure off the 
> neuroma to result in less pain.  
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Fully Clothed Joe

[David Banzer]

Do a heavy coat of clear shellac first - then a light coat of amber once 
the first coat is completely dry and it should be an olive green. But as 
Bill states, Newbaums colors really pop with clear shellac.
David
Chicago

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 9:01:06 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Amber over light green = brown in my experience. I love LOVE Newbaums 
> light green. It really pops with clear.  Please try that first before 
> brownifying it with Amber. 

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[RBW] Re: Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Brian Campbell]

Put the spacer in and give it a try. I doubt it will make the part unsafe 
if you can tighten things down enough.

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 8:12:07 AM UTC-4, Mattt wrote:
>
>
> I need 2mm more spindle length on a White Industries Bottom Bracket I want 
> to use on my Quickbeam.
>
> Is there danger to use a 2mm spacer that there is not enough thread to the 
> shell?  
>
> I figure it is since spacers are sold.  I called WI and said 1mm is OK 2mm 
> is a little too much.  It sounded like they were being over cautious in our 
> sue happy culture. 
>
> I don't want to buy a new BB and trying to be cheap.  
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Matt
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

[Anton Tutter]

I have the simpler Luxos "B" without USB charging, and that one is 
problematic as well. Overall an unreliable light. Firstly, the external 
connection terminals are a poor, poor design and prone to snapping off. Not 
Good.  I've had to replace two of the four, which isn't a job for those 
uncomfortable with soldering. Secondly, my Luxos has started cutting in and 
out in wet weather... also Not Good.

I've never had problems with other B lights, but something went terribly 
wrong with this product.

I just bought their newest IQ-X... let's hope it's not another Luxos story.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 9:32:43 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> From what I understand, the Luxos U, while a wonderful light and charger, 
> has a lot of problems. I'm on my third one on my Hilsen. The USB has quit 
> working on two and #3 acted up for a bit at PBP but not since. However, I 
> sent the other two back to Peter White and once he tested them to be sure 
> it was faulty and not user error, he immediately replaced them. In fact, 
> one failed two days before a 400k brevet (which I'm not fast enough to ride 
> in daylight only) and he had me up and running in time! Hooray Peter! I 
> have the Edelux II on my new rando bike but haven't gotten to ride it at 
> night yet. 

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I would be interested in hearing anyone's experience with these pedals.  I 
have issues with Morton's Neuroma and I can't decide if the forward foot 
placement of this pedal would put more pressure on the neuroma and make it 
worse or the fully supported arch would take enough pressure off the 
neuroma to result in less pain.  



On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 5:55:10 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
> any shoes.  
> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>
> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
> merely 95mm long.  
> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
> have to say they're worth the price.  
>
> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
> weights and  mashing.  
> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
>

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Deacon Patrick]

Sweet! And, hey! They're getting there and I love that they are applying 
running form analysis to pedaling. Looking at what they say on their 
website (http://pedalinginnovations.com)...

This is absolutely true when running: "You only push through the ball of 
the foot when your foot needs to break contact with the ground, like when 
you run or jump."

This is absolutely true when standing and lifting: "But your foot acts much 
differently if it doesn’t come off the ground, like when deadlifting in the 
gym or picking up a heavy box. In this case your foot needs to stay 
balanced between the heel and ball of the foot so you can apply force with 
a strong, stable foot."

But EITHER is true on the bike. We CAN pedal with efficiency using the ball 
of our feet. Our body works to "push off" the "ground" but instead of 
lifting us up it mushed the pedal down. Very efficient, smooth, and 
biologically sound. But this is most efficient with equivalent force to 
when we are running, which is at it's greatest when execrating. Try 
running, barefoot, as fast as you can, then "coast" to maintain that speed 
(or just imagine this in your head, but actually doing it will give you the 
direct feel, and that will help in applying this to the bike later). Note 
that the force is greatest with your initial push off as it must be to set 
100-300 pounds in motion. After that first stroke (stride), inertia is on 
your side as your weight is moving forward. Keep the force up with each 
stride and you will accelerate faster. But the goal here is not to overcome 
gravity and go up (unless you are climbing, and then there is some of 
that), the goal is to only defy gravity enough to go sideways to gravity 
while flying briefly. Not much force is required. This is VERY similar to 
the pedal stroke on a bicycle and the reason riding forefoot to the pedal 
IS efficient (but if foot muscles are weakened by wearing modern foot 
binding devices, that efficiency decreases because the foot is not strong 
enough to function as God intended). Go ahead and stop your sprint now. 
Grin.

Now that you're huffing and puffing in the middle of the road or trail and 
everyone is staring at you and your barefeet, jump up and down. High as you 
can. Same thing. You go off the ball of your foot.

Now, pick up a log or a rock or a passing pedestrian. Something heavier 
than you would jump with, or even walk with. You're just going to stand 
there. Holding 500 pounds. On your mid-foot and heel. This IS the most 
stable position when not in motion. This is the position that affords us 
the greatest power. Put the little old lady you picked up (or two, if 
you're that strong), and set them on their way with a hearty thank you, 
assuring them they have participated in increasing the experiential 
knowledge of the world.

Practical application: 90+% of the time, I ride with my forefoot (not toes, 
ball of foot) over the pedal axel. It is smooth and efficient and has 
plenty of power for most riding everywhere but climbing up steep slopes. 
When I stand to pedal, I shift to my mid-foot over the axel, keep my knees 
as bent as I can and rock my weight from side to side, more akin to the 
weight lifter than the runner as I pull up on the bar with both hands as 
each foot, with my body weight over it, pushes down on the pedal. This is 
for 12% grade or higher. Most would never need it.

Conclusion: Great pedal. Solid marketing. Poor logic and reason of 
conclusion based on the facts and realities of running, weight lifting, and 
when and were bicycle pedaling is like which one of those.

With abandon,
Patrick (who uses ALL the width of the VP Vice, and wouldn't mind the 
length of the Catalyst when standing to climb.)

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 4:55:10 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>

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[RBW] flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[William R.]

I should have added that I have gun boats, nothing under 13 fits.

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[RBW] Re: Fully Clothed Joe

[Bill Lindsay]

Amber over light green = brown in my experience. I love LOVE Newbaums light 
green. It really pops with clear.  Please try that first before brownifying it 
with Amber. 

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[RBW] Re: Fully Clothed Joe

[WETH]

Scott,
Congrats on the weight loss!  Your wife's bike looks great.  My Atlantis holds 
no functional niche for me; I have other bikes that do what the Atlantis 
allows.  Fat tires with fenders and fully loaded touring are two.  However, no 
bike I own looks prettier even with Beausage than my Atlantis!  It is a 
beautiful beast of burden!  I say get the Atlantis.
Congrats again!
Erl

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[RBW] flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[William R.]

I like the looks and dims of that Catalyst pedal Ron. Thanks for bringing it to 
our attention. So far I love the cheapie VPs that came on my Appaloosa. These 
look like a step up that I may have to try in the not-too-distant future.

Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Ride in The Dalles

[WETH]

Brian,
Thanks for sharing that fun trip.  The impromptu activities are as fun as ones 
fully planned.  As always your writing and photos inspire.
Erl

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Re: [RBW] Talk to me about Dyno power/lighting

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

>From what I understand, the Luxos U, while a wonderful light and charger, has 
>a lot of problems. I'm on my third one on my Hilsen. The USB has quit working 
>on two and #3 acted up for a bit at PBP but not since. However, I sent the 
>other two back to Peter White and once he tested them to be sure it was faulty 
>and not user error, he immediately replaced them. In fact, one failed two days 
>before a 400k brevet (which I'm not fast enough to ride in daylight only) and 
>he had me up and running in time! Hooray Peter! I have the Edelux II on my new 
>rando bike but haven't gotten to ride it at night yet. 

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Garth]

Okay Ron, that explains why it seems narrow to me.  When I look at a pedal 
width I assume it's the actual total width , from inside of the crank arm 
to the outside edge of the platform. The specs would incomplete and limited 
if manufacturers would list the platform width only without listing the 
total with axle and all also. Same with platform length, to give the 
total(top and bottom) but not the actual length of each side 
individually(the only place where the foot can actually be) would be 
incomplete.  

  I emailed them to find out the actual dimensions to clarify ..  :)   
All Good 



On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 8:27:02 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Garth, those are platform dimensions.  The axle bolt extension of course 
> adds to it.  Most new platform pedals have very short extension from the 
> crank.  If you look at the Grip Kings, they have a very long cantilevered 
> axle, but still end up being closer to the crank than some of the really 
> wide new pedals - e.g., Harrier
>
> On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 7:21:28 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>>
>>   These pedals sound interesting Ron , do you mean the 95mm width is 
>> (mounted) from the inside of the crank arm to the outside of the pedal, and 
>> the 128mm length the actual usable portion (of each side) of the total 
>> listed 143mm(both sides) ?
>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[Ron Mc]

oops, sorry Miche RG-2

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 7:43:52 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I have a Phil/Synergy wheelset and like it.  I've ridden 4000 mi on a 
> Miche RB-2 / Open Pro wheelset and like them just as much.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[Ron Mc]

I have a Phil/Synergy wheelset and like it.  I've ridden 4000 mi on a Miche 
RB-2 / Open Pro wheelset and like them just as much.  

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

ps, I started looking at the width part very seriously. I rode my upright 
cross frame with the Atlas pedals almost exclusively for most of a year, 
just because I love it and can't leave it alone.  On New Year's Eve day, I 
decided to take out my old Raleigh with the VP-001.  Charging up a 
switchback I was used to on the upright, I stuck the pedal, the bike 
instantly went down and I sprained my ankle (just now back to 98%).  I've 
replaced those pedals with some narrower  and if anybody wants a 
such-a-deal on a scarred set of VP-001, LMK.  

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

Garth, those are platform dimensions.  The axle bolt extension of course 
adds to it.  Most new platform pedals have very short extension from the 
crank.  If you look at the Grip Kings, they have a very long cantilevered 
axle, but still end up being closer to the crank than some of the really 
wide new pedals - e.g., Harrier

On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 7:21:28 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
>   These pedals sound interesting Ron , do you mean the 95mm width is 
> (mounted) from the inside of the crank arm to the outside of the pedal, and 
> the 128mm length the actual usable portion (of each side) of the total 
> listed 143mm(both sides) ?
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Tell me about these wheels, please.

[alan lavine]

Thanks, Bill, you've already told me much of what I wanted to know: the 
best, intended use of such wheels.  Since I no longer do fully loaded 
touring, I might want to sell them or trade for 650"s for a future project. 
 Not sure yet, but what do you think a reasonable resale value would be?

Also, I'm interested in your opinion about Phil hubs, yes...are they worth 
the price?  Is it the smoothness, reliability, or what?  I could understand 
if you were doing a round the world tour you would want the most reliable 
hub available, but for most of us mere mortals, does it really make a 
difference?

Thanks for your help.
Alan

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 6:51:27 PM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:
>
> Hola to all,
> When I bought my Ram used it came with these wheels:
>
> rims: Bontrager Fairlane asym
> hubs: Phil 36 hole, F & R
>
> I know that Phil hubs are quite expensive, but are they really worth it? 
>  I've used good quality wheels, much less expensive,  made with sealed 
> bearing hubs and never had any issues. I did notice that these wheels are 
> quite heavy.
>
> I've since converted to 650 x 42, which I just love, so these are hanging 
> in the storage unit downstairs.  Any info is much appreciated.
>
> Alan
> NYC
>

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[RBW] Re: flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Garth]

  These pedals sound interesting Ron , do you mean the 95mm width is 
(mounted) from the inside of the crank arm to the outside of the pedal, and 
the 128mm length the actual usable portion (of each side) of the total 
listed 143mm(both sides) ?

   



On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 6:55:10 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
> narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
> 120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
> mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
> they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
> any shoes.  
> Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
> really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
> pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  
>
> Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
> clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
> merely 95mm long.  
> Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
> "oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
> Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
> pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
> have to say they're worth the price.  
>
> Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
> about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
> serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
> cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
> their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
> (though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
> running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
> weights and  mashing.  
> http://pedalinginnovations.com/
>

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[RBW] Bottom Bracket Use Help

[Mattt]

I need 2mm more spindle length on a White Industries Bottom Bracket I want to 
use on my Quickbeam.

Is there danger to use a 2mm spacer that there is not enough thread to the 
shell?  

I figure it is since spacers are sold.  I called WI and said 1mm is OK 2mm is a 
little too much.  It sounded like they were being over cautious in our sue 
happy culture. 

I don't want to buy a new BB and trying to be cheap.  

Thanks for the help,
Matt

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[RBW] flat pedals, thin pedals, long pedals

[Ron Mc]

There was something I always liked about Grip Kings (MKS Lambda).  Though 
narrow (good for clearance), too thick, and not quite grippy, at almost 
120mm long, they center very nicely under your arch and give you support 
mostly from ball to heel - maybe not quite with my ice skate feet.  But 
they gives you great mash, great spin, and low strain on your arches with 
any shoes.  
Deac notwithstanding, if you're pedaling on the ball of your foot, you 
really need to be in shoes with solid shanks, otherwise part of your 
pedaling energy goes into straining (and injuring) your arches.  

Most grippy flat pedals are wide and short - some too wide endangering 
clearance,  and most too short.  some are over 110mm wide now, but most are 
merely 95mm long.  
Lived a year on my Race Face Atlas now.  I bought these because they were 
"oversquare".  101mm wide x 114mm long (and a near freakish 12mm thick). . 
Aside from a too early (warranty) axle click, I've really loved these 
pedals.  With the way they're holding up now on the new axle, I'll also 
have to say they're worth the price.  

Pedaling Innovations in CO has been making The really long pedal now for 
about a year, the Catalyst.  These are 95mm wide x 128mm long - this is a 
serious platform, and the narrow width (by current standards) keeps 
cornering clearance reasonably safe. They have a pretty good argument on 
their home page why long is better, and they're getting pretty good reviews 
(though they are heavy).  Note Deac, loading the ball of your foot is for 
running and jumping - you need the full arch - ball to heel - for lifting 
weights and  mashing.  
http://pedalinginnovations.com/

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RE: [RBW] Re: Romulus refurbished as 650b

[olofstroh]

I have a custom Riv bought six months before the Ram was announced, geometry  
fairly identical, e.g. 80 mm bb drop. I have converted it to 650B (PariMoto 38 
mm) and ride it with 177,5 mm cranks. Quite low, but, seriously, no problem. 
The same with the Heron Touring on tour, even on trails (not the worst of 
trails, though). Makers are probably scared of low pedals for liability 
reasons, but you can ride much lower and low is good.

 

Olof Stroh

Uppsla Sweden

 

On Behalf Of Michael Hechmer:



I'd like to hear more about the ride.  Since you apparently never rode it as a 
700c that may be a bit difficult but give it a try.  How much pedal clearance 
do you have?  I remember reading that GP didn't recommend converting the 
Rambouliet because of the low BB shell, but I have successfully converted a 
Trek 620 with pretty similar specs and have, from time to time considered doing 
my Ram too.

 

Michael

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 11:36:03 AM UTC-4, WETH wrote:

 

---

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[RBW] Re: Romulus refurbished as 650b

[Michael Hechmer]

I'd like to hear more about the ride.  Since you apparently never rode it 
as a 700c that may be a bit difficult but give it a try.  How much pedal 
clearance do you have?  I remember reading that GP didn't recommend 
converting the Rambouliet because of the low BB shell, but I have 
successfully converted a Trek 620 with pretty similar specs and have, from 
time to time considered doing my Ram too.

Michael

On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 11:36:03 AM UTC-4, WETH wrote:
>
>
> I blame Tony DeFilippo; he emailed me and several other area Rivendell 
> aficionados last June about a Romulus frameset that his Bike co-op had for 
> sale.  The size was either a 59 or 61, and the frame was in rough shape. 
>  Rust had pitted the frame in several places.  Not being in the market for 
> another bike, I thanked Tony but denied interest.  However, I couldn't get 
> the forlorn looking Romulus out of my mind.  The  words forlorn and Romulus 
> do not belong together!  After contacting the co-op manager, I went to see 
> the bike and, of course, bought it!  I will digress and divulge that I own 
> two dogs both of whom we adopted from a dog rescue program at a prison.
>
> Not being in the market for a bike, I wondered what to do with the rescued 
> Romulus.  The rust concerned me; I sanded down the egregious cancers and 
> called Keven at RBW.  We talked through the merits and philosophy of 
> beausage.  I like beausage but prefer to be the one who inflicts the 
> wounds.  Keven kindly told me whatever I did to safeguard the headbadge as 
> those were irreplaceable now.  Slowly I formed a plan to resurrect the 
> Romulus as a 650b commuter.  (I had recently unconverted my Riv Road 
> Standard back to 700c. ). I delivered the Romulus to a local automotive 
> body shop for powdercoating in Ford Blue.  I feel Romulus would have driven 
> a Ford!  I then hand painted the head tube in a cream and reapplied the 
> badge and the new decals Keven sent.
>
> If you've read this far you deserve some photos of the project from start 
> to finish: https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157654006187120
>
> After a long ride today I am smitten; I am not sure smitten and Romulus go 
> together either.  It's a bromance!  I didn't know what to expect but I 
> really enjoy the ride!  
>
> Of course now I have n+1 too many bikes...
> Thanks for all the inspiration and know-how so generously provided by so 
> many in this group! And thanks Tony! I owe you...
>
> Safe cycling wishes,
> Erl
>
>

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