Re: [RBW] FS: Two Rivvy bikes, one not, all big

[Reed Kennedy]

Ah, dang! You're totally right Joe. I crossed 'em up. How embarrassing!

I've fixed the CL post.

And rest assured, the bikes are better than my faulty writing!


Reed

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Not to be a stickler for detail - ok, I'm being a stickler for detail -
> the dropbar mtb Bstone was the MB-1 circa '87-ish. MB-Zip was a
> stupid-light TIGed flatbar mtb which people broke a lot.
>
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[RBW] Re: Victoria Hypers

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Thanks for asking. I hadn't thought to check.
The tires are labelled ETRO 37-622, 700c-35, just like the Supremes they 
are replacing.
I measure 37 mm in front on velocity rim at 55 psi and 38 mm in back at 75 
psi on an A23 rim.
The Supremes measured 35 mm on the same wheels at similar pressures.
Hope I can get my fenders around these come winter time.

Jay

On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 3:07:32 AM UTC+3, Minh wrote:
>
> Jay, what size did you get?  True to size?

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr, 7 month and 2200 miles in

[Michael Morrissey]

That was a very good review!  I love the picture of your bike with the 
ortlieb bags pushed all the way back, and the other cargo shots too.

It's very perceptive of you to comment on how the Clem would be a tough 
sell for your friends.  I think maybe most of Rivendell's customers are 
people who have loved, commuted, and modified older bikes.  Perhaps that's 
the factor that makes the difference in choosing bikes.

Your writeup on the Boscos detailing the 3 positions definitely makes me 
want to try them!

m


On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:36:55 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> After switching from my original albastache build to boscos a while back 
> and getting some more mileage and longer rides under me, I keep meaning to 
> do a proper medium-term write-up on the Clem and just kept being too busy 
> to do it. I finally had a quiet evening to sit down and apparently I had a 
> lot more to say about my past 7 months with the Clem than I expected, so, 
> I'll spare everyone the wall of text, but if you're 4,000 words curious 
> about Riv's economy bruiser, boy do I have a blog post for you. 
>
> The short version is: I probably could have just titled this 'How I Got 
> Over My Own Hubris and Learned to Love the Bosco'
>
> http://zedmartinez.com/2016/06/rivendell-clem-smith-jr/
>

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Re: [RBW] Upright road riders tell me your fit setup please.

[Joe Broach]

>
> ​
> 1. Terrain you ride in.


paved roads to easy singletrack

​
> ​
> 2. What model bike and upright handlebar.​


​56cm cr-mo albatross

​
> ​
> 2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries,
> ​...
>

​(did, for me, I've switched to drops for now) fun and getting places up to
80 miles

 ​
> ​
> 3. Fit:
>  a) Your bar height to saddle height
> ​  Level or ​bars a bit above, bars tilted level
>
>  b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on
> the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
> ​ ​
> ​all the way back (72.5 STA)
>
>  c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of
> PBH-11cm?).
> ​  82cm
>
 d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?
> ​
> ​Level or ever so slightly nose up.
> ​


​
> ​
> 4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry
> blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long
> in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind
> punishment.
>

​Underrated advantage of upright, especially when I lived in colder climes
(western Montana), was being able to layer however I wanted without
everything bunching up when I bent over. You also get less wind up your
collar and can wear a broader brimmed hat and still see.​ I kept the bars
and will have a bike for them again someday...

Best,
joe
pdx or

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 8:38 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> Thinking of trying Boscos on my Sam. I like my drops setups. But thinking
> an upright setup will be fun for on-road riding, too. I do commuting,
> errands, centuries, recreational on-road riding.
>
> But it is hilly around here and was wondering what you hilly upright
> riders do for your upright bike setups that works for you.
>
> I know this is a highly individual thing, but interested to see what works
> for you.
>
> ​​
> Please mention:
> 1. Terrain you ride in.
> ​​
> 2. What model bike and upright handlebar.
> ​​
> 2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries,
> brevets, touring, recreational road riding).
> ​​
> 3. Fit:
>  a) Your bar height to saddle height
>  b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on
> the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
>  c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of
> PBH-11cm?).
>  d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?
>
> ​​
> 4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry
> blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long
> in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind
> punishment.
>
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[RBW] FS: Two Rivvy bikes, one not, all big

[Joe Bernard]

Not to be a stickler for detail - ok, I'm being a stickler for detail - the 
dropbar mtb Bstone was the MB-1 circa '87-ish. MB-Zip was a stupid-light TIGed 
flatbar mtb which people broke a lot. 

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[RBW] Re: Upright road riders tell me your fit setup please.

[Zed Martinez]

1. Flat, mostly. Windy. Occasional hill.
2. Clem, Bosco, 100mm stem
2 again. Commuting and other vehicular cycling up to 60 miles a day on 
occasion
3. The angle of my saddle basically forms a continuous line going into the 
bars, so, bars a bit above saddle and ends of bars about even with saddle 
nose. B17, the C17 was too narrow sitting as upright as the Boscos for my 
sit bones. But that's going to be a you thing, some might even want a wider 
seat still. The other metrics are independent of the bars, your saddle 
should be at a height and fore/aft where your hips don't rock and you don't 
have pain on the top or bottom of any knee. I can also usually judge 
fore/aft by whether or not I have to force myself to slide back and not sit 
on the nose when pedaling with some force (as this tends to slide me 
naturally into an optimum leg extension). Adjust tilt until no rubbing in 
the soft bits. All of my bikes are at slightly different adjustments 
because of different saddles, pedals, seat angles, etc. Once you get your 
butt and knees happy, the reach is dialed in with stem. I like a 100mm on 
the Clem's long tube, on a Sam I'd probably start with a 120 for myself and 
see how it goes.
4. Rode all winter in 20mph winds and 40mph gusts, as low as 7 degrees F 
actual and somewhere in the negatives with wind chill. Long undies, wool 
base layer, a Showers Pass Amsterdam jacket, and rain pants over my pants 
pretty well kept the wind out. In the really cold stuff, two layers of long 
johns for the thighs and crotch.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 11:38:43 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Thinking of trying Boscos on my Sam. I like my drops setups. But thinking 
> an upright setup will be fun for on-road riding, too. I do commuting, 
> errands, centuries, recreational on-road riding.
>
> But it is hilly around here and was wondering what you hilly upright 
> riders do for your upright bike setups that works for you.
>
> I know this is a highly individual thing, but interested to see what works 
> for you.
>
> Please mention:
> 1. Terrain you ride in.
> 2. What model bike and upright handlebar.
> 2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries, 
> brevets, touring, recreational road riding).
> 3. Fit:
>  a) Your bar height to saddle height
>  b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on 
> the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
>  c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of 
> PBH-11cm?).
>  d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?
>
> 4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry 
> blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long 
> in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind 
> punishment.
>
>

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[RBW] Upright road riders tell me your fit setup please.

[Lungimsam]

Thinking of trying Boscos on my Sam. I like my drops setups. But thinking 
an upright setup will be fun for on-road riding, too. I do commuting, 
errands, centuries, recreational on-road riding.

But it is hilly around here and was wondering what you hilly upright riders 
do for your upright bike setups that works for you.

I know this is a highly individual thing, but interested to see what works 
for you.

Please mention:
1. Terrain you ride in.
2. What model bike and upright handlebar.
2. What type of on-road riding you do (commutes, errands, centuries, 
brevets, touring, recreational road riding).
3. Fit:
 a) Your bar height to saddle height
 b) seat fore and aft (KOPS?, saddle slammed all the way back on 
the rails Riv-style, etc.?)
 c) saddle height ( I guess most of you use the Riv method of 
PBH-11cm?).
 d) what kinda saddle and how do you tilt it?

4. Also, what do you do in winter so you don't get blasted with wintry 
blasts when riding? My thighs and shoulders get cranky when I ride too long 
in the cold, and upright just opens them up to more direct wintry wind 
punishment.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Robert Keal]

I wouldn't argue. I'm halfway tempted to throw the Moustache bar back on my
Sam with a DD stem--it actually came from Riv with a 100 mm Technomic +
Moustache combo--but I'm happy with the Albas for now, so I won't be going
to the trouble.

Still not settled on a handlebar purchase for my mtb. Silly spending so
much time reading and thinking about this, but then again, maybe not. I'll
pull the trigger on something tomorrow. :)

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Deacon Patrick]

Gotcha. yes, as Ron mentioned, Mustache require 2" (5cm) shorter than a 
regular road bar, so I'd argue you haven't tried them.  Yes, I have 
Mustache (all my Albastache bars are happily in use), and yes, the 
Albastache is its own beastie and well worth trying.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 6:20:24 PM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:
>
> Getting there, Patrick. By "splayed out" I meant that my body felt too 
> elongated with the moustache bars on my Sam. Some of this splay could've 
> been avoided with a dirt drop stem, though. I'm definitely curious about 
> the Albastache if they're truly quite different from moustache bars. 
> Earlier in this thread you said you have a moustache I could try--did you 
> mean Albastache? If so, I'd be keen to give them a go. Thanks.
>
>>

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[RBW] Clem Smith Jr, 7 month and 2200 miles in

[Zed Martinez]

After switching from my original albastache build to boscos a while back 
and getting some more mileage and longer rides under me, I keep meaning to 
do a proper medium-term write-up on the Clem and just kept being too busy 
to do it. I finally had a quiet evening to sit down and apparently I had a 
lot more to say about my past 7 months with the Clem than I expected, so, 
I'll spare everyone the wall of text, but if you're 4,000 words curious 
about Riv's economy bruiser, boy do I have a blog post for you. 

The short version is: I probably could have just titled this 'How I Got 
Over My Own Hubris and Learned to Love the Bosco'

http://zedmartinez.com/2016/06/rivendell-clem-smith-jr/

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Re: [RBW] Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Ron Mc]

With any bars, set up is everything, but if you don't take 2" horizontal 
extension from your normal road bar stem, you're not even in the right 
ballpark for moustache bars.  
Here's a recent thread with all the common experiences.  
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!topic/internet-bob/SxKtL7CXJAs
I've spent 5 years on moustache bars and adore them.  I've spent almost the 
entire past year and over 4000 mi on Map bars and adore them, too.  
I would recommend the Map bars for control.  They're much closer to 
straight bars than Albas, in fact, your hands will be rotated about 70 
degrees differently.  

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Re: [RBW] Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Curtis McKenzie]

Hugh,

With The upmost respect. You are young.

Humbly,

Curtis

On Friday, June 17, 2016, Hugh Smitham  wrote:

> Bob,
>
> I tried both the Moustache & Albastache and liked neither. I felt
> stretched out and the brake lever position wasn't ideal for me. That said
> you may experience them differently. With bikes and most especially with
> cockpits there's no substitute for experience. And we change. When I was
> young I'd imagine there were lot's of bars I'd have liked but today just
> not feasible.
>
> Warm Regards,
>
> ~Hugh
> On Jun 17, 2016 5:20 PM, "kielsun"  > wrote:
>
>> Getting there, Patrick. By "splayed out" I meant that my body felt too
>> elongated with the moustache bars on my Sam. Some of this splay could've
>> been avoided with a dirt drop stem, though. I'm definitely curious about
>> the Albastache if they're truly quite different from moustache bars.
>> Earlier in this thread you said you have a moustache I could try--did you
>> mean Albastache? If so, I'd be keen to give them a go. Thanks.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 4:13:37 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> Bob, sounds like you are narrowing things down a bit. Ultimately, it's
>>> all an experiment, even if the trial lasts for several years with tweaks
>>> along the way. Grin. I have no experience with 2 and 3, but I rode the
>>> Albatross bars on my Hunqapillar for two years before swapping to
>>> Albastache. For singletrack here on Pikes Peak, I have far less control in
>>> climbing and technical descending with my wings spread so wide (I presume
>>> what you mean when you describe the brake position of the moustache bars as
>>> "splayed out"?). The Albatross bars have a fairly decent climbing position
>>> for short climbs in the "sort-of-curves", but for me the wrists got
>>> uncomfortable fast there. Steering on climbs was twitchy because of width.
>>> On descents, I wanted my hands in the curves, but no brakes. I tried the
>>> moustache bars and found them uncomfortable, but the Albastache bars, for
>>> me, are the best of both worlds. Brakes where I want to be on descents,
>>> control for climbs. I'd suggest you not necessarily rule out the Albastache
>>> bar (depending on what "splayed out" means, because the Albatross bars are
>>> much more splayed out, at least as I would describe them).
>>>
>>> Ultimately, the handlebar dilemma is muddy until you find the right one,
>>> then things suddenly clear up. Grin.
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:

 Thanks Veloman and Ron.

 Ron, I dug around and found an old post of yours about the Map bar.
 Definitely intriguing. I measured the top tube of my Rockhopper and it's
 roughly three cm longer than that of my Sam.

 So here are the final few options I'm considering.

 1. Albatross w/ 120 mm Technomic stem.
 2. Map w/ a dirt drop or short reach (60-80) Technomic.
 3. Surly Open Bar w/ either a dirt drop or short  reach Technomic.

 I love the Albas w/ 100 mm Technomic on my Sam, but the bar ends hit my
 knees on tight turns if I'm not careful. I also use the VO seat post with
 long setback with that setup to get a bit more stretched out.
 Realistically, the 120 mm stem would've solved that issue, but I had
 already glued the Meisha's grips. Rookie move! Might feel the need to
 change that someday...

 Going with the Albas and some Deore thumb shifters makes sense because
 it's a known quantity. I'm less apt to try something new since my budget is
 tight (read: non-existent!).

 Bottom line: I just need to choose because I'd probably love any of
 these setups and I just want to get this bike on the trail! :)

 Bob


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[RBW] FS: Two Rivvy bikes, one not, all big

[Reed Kennedy]

I've fallen in love with my Hunqapillar and have decided to part with a few
bikes I haven't ridden recently.

First, a Bike Friday folding touring bike that I had custom made and then
upgraded to be as Riv-ish as I could manage:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5641095552.html

Second, a RockCombo that has remained almost unmolested. This is the only
production bike, other than the MB-0, ever to be sold with drop bars:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5641112197.html

Finally and least interestingly, here is a old Trek Madone that used to
belong to Gary Fisher:
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/5640961497.html

You can tell how much I like each bike by how unrealistic my price is. I
fear I may be dreaming a bit on the Friday and the RockCombo, but they're
just both such darn nice bikes. Anyway, feel free to make a thoughtful
offer if you're interested.

All bikes are in my garage in San Francisco, ready to be whisked off to new
adventures.


Best,
Reed

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Re: [RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Hugh Smitham]

Bob,

I tried both the Moustache & Albastache and liked neither. I felt stretched
out and the brake lever position wasn't ideal for me. That said you may
experience them differently. With bikes and most especially with cockpits
there's no substitute for experience. And we change. When I was young I'd
imagine there were lot's of bars I'd have liked but today just not
feasible.

Warm Regards,

~Hugh
On Jun 17, 2016 5:20 PM, "kielsun"  wrote:

> Getting there, Patrick. By "splayed out" I meant that my body felt too
> elongated with the moustache bars on my Sam. Some of this splay could've
> been avoided with a dirt drop stem, though. I'm definitely curious about
> the Albastache if they're truly quite different from moustache bars.
> Earlier in this thread you said you have a moustache I could try--did you
> mean Albastache? If so, I'd be keen to give them a go. Thanks.
>
> Bob
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 4:13:37 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Bob, sounds like you are narrowing things down a bit. Ultimately, it's
>> all an experiment, even if the trial lasts for several years with tweaks
>> along the way. Grin. I have no experience with 2 and 3, but I rode the
>> Albatross bars on my Hunqapillar for two years before swapping to
>> Albastache. For singletrack here on Pikes Peak, I have far less control in
>> climbing and technical descending with my wings spread so wide (I presume
>> what you mean when you describe the brake position of the moustache bars as
>> "splayed out"?). The Albatross bars have a fairly decent climbing position
>> for short climbs in the "sort-of-curves", but for me the wrists got
>> uncomfortable fast there. Steering on climbs was twitchy because of width.
>> On descents, I wanted my hands in the curves, but no brakes. I tried the
>> moustache bars and found them uncomfortable, but the Albastache bars, for
>> me, are the best of both worlds. Brakes where I want to be on descents,
>> control for climbs. I'd suggest you not necessarily rule out the Albastache
>> bar (depending on what "splayed out" means, because the Albatross bars are
>> much more splayed out, at least as I would describe them).
>>
>> Ultimately, the handlebar dilemma is muddy until you find the right one,
>> then things suddenly clear up. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks Veloman and Ron.
>>>
>>> Ron, I dug around and found an old post of yours about the Map bar.
>>> Definitely intriguing. I measured the top tube of my Rockhopper and it's
>>> roughly three cm longer than that of my Sam.
>>>
>>> So here are the final few options I'm considering.
>>>
>>> 1. Albatross w/ 120 mm Technomic stem.
>>> 2. Map w/ a dirt drop or short reach (60-80) Technomic.
>>> 3. Surly Open Bar w/ either a dirt drop or short  reach Technomic.
>>>
>>> I love the Albas w/ 100 mm Technomic on my Sam, but the bar ends hit my
>>> knees on tight turns if I'm not careful. I also use the VO seat post with
>>> long setback with that setup to get a bit more stretched out.
>>> Realistically, the 120 mm stem would've solved that issue, but I had
>>> already glued the Meisha's grips. Rookie move! Might feel the need to
>>> change that someday...
>>>
>>> Going with the Albas and some Deore thumb shifters makes sense because
>>> it's a known quantity. I'm less apt to try something new since my budget is
>>> tight (read: non-existent!).
>>>
>>> Bottom line: I just need to choose because I'd probably love any of
>>> these setups and I just want to get this bike on the trail! :)
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[kielsun]

Getting there, Patrick. By "splayed out" I meant that my body felt too 
elongated with the moustache bars on my Sam. Some of this splay could've 
been avoided with a dirt drop stem, though. I'm definitely curious about 
the Albastache if they're truly quite different from moustache bars. 
Earlier in this thread you said you have a moustache I could try--did you 
mean Albastache? If so, I'd be keen to give them a go. Thanks.

Bob

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 4:13:37 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Bob, sounds like you are narrowing things down a bit. Ultimately, it's all 
> an experiment, even if the trial lasts for several years with tweaks along 
> the way. Grin. I have no experience with 2 and 3, but I rode the Albatross 
> bars on my Hunqapillar for two years before swapping to Albastache. For 
> singletrack here on Pikes Peak, I have far less control in climbing and 
> technical descending with my wings spread so wide (I presume what you mean 
> when you describe the brake position of the moustache bars as "splayed 
> out"?). The Albatross bars have a fairly decent climbing position for short 
> climbs in the "sort-of-curves", but for me the wrists got uncomfortable 
> fast there. Steering on climbs was twitchy because of width. On descents, I 
> wanted my hands in the curves, but no brakes. I tried the moustache bars 
> and found them uncomfortable, but the Albastache bars, for me, are the best 
> of both worlds. Brakes where I want to be on descents, control for climbs. 
> I'd suggest you not necessarily rule out the Albastache bar (depending on 
> what "splayed out" means, because the Albatross bars are much more splayed 
> out, at least as I would describe them).
>
> Ultimately, the handlebar dilemma is muddy until you find the right one, 
> then things suddenly clear up. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Veloman and Ron.
>>
>> Ron, I dug around and found an old post of yours about the Map bar. 
>> Definitely intriguing. I measured the top tube of my Rockhopper and it's 
>> roughly three cm longer than that of my Sam.
>>
>> So here are the final few options I'm considering. 
>>
>> 1. Albatross w/ 120 mm Technomic stem.
>> 2. Map w/ a dirt drop or short reach (60-80) Technomic.
>> 3. Surly Open Bar w/ either a dirt drop or short  reach Technomic.
>>
>> I love the Albas w/ 100 mm Technomic on my Sam, but the bar ends hit my 
>> knees on tight turns if I'm not careful. I also use the VO seat post with 
>> long setback with that setup to get a bit more stretched out. 
>> Realistically, the 120 mm stem would've solved that issue, but I had 
>> already glued the Meisha's grips. Rookie move! Might feel the need to 
>> change that someday...
>>
>> Going with the Albas and some Deore thumb shifters makes sense because 
>> it's a known quantity. I'm less apt to try something new since my budget is 
>> tight (read: non-existent!). 
>>
>> Bottom line: I just need to choose because I'd probably love any of these 
>> setups and I just want to get this bike on the trail! :)
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Victoria Hypers

[Minh]

Jay, what size did you get?  True to size?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[cyclotourist]

And a brilliant use of a John's Irish strap!

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 1:39 PM, cyclotourist 
wrote:

> Here's the link: https://www.instagram.com/p/BGvQYc0LxKA/?taken-by=rivbike
>
> On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 6:48 AM, Daniel Jackson <
> daniel.seth.jack...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> New photo up on their Instagram feed. Check it out!
>>
>> --
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>
>
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
>
> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike day! Apppaloosa!

[Michael Morrissey]

Hey! Thanks for reading it!

The Appaloosa and the Clem were pretty similar, but there were two big 
differences: the handlebars and the sizing.  

The Appaloosa comes in more sizes.  The Clem is basically the first 
Rivendell to be built to a price point.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I 
think they said they wanted to stop recommending people buy Surlys if they 
wanted a cheaper bike than a Rivendell.  They succeeded by doing this 
incredibly scrappy move: manufacturing only three sizes.  I'm 6 feet tall 
with a PBH of 86cm (if I remember correctly) and I felt like the Appaloosa 
fit me better.  The 59 Clem was wayyy t big, and I liked the 52 Clem, 
but it had 650B wheels and I sort of had my mind set on 700 x 2.0 tires for 
my bike.

My first impression of the Bosco bars on the Clem was that they were too 
much of a beach cruiser bar.  I commute year round in NYC in heavy traffic, 
so beach cruiser isn't exactly ideal for me.  I liked the Choco-moose ones 
because they had the classic "sit up and beg" position, but also the reach 
forward was like riding the tops of drop bars.  I suppose you can lean 
forward and grab the middles of the Bosco bars, but again this was just a 
brief ride.  I actually still want to try the Bosco bars on my vintage 
mountain bike and see how they would change that bike.  

Also, I bought the Appaloosa because they were sold out of Clems and I got 
excited and really wanted a bike!  If they had a Clem in the 55cm size, I 
would have bought that.

I test rode the Cheviot primarily to try the Albatross bars.  The Cheviot 
has centerpulls, and I knew I wanted fatter tires, so I think that's a big 
difference between bikes.  I didn't want a step-through bike.  The Cheviot 
had the best paint though - the swampy green looks AMAZING in person.  It 
is so much nicer in person than in photos.  The Cheviot doesn't have the 
long chainstays like the Clem and Appaloosa.  The Cheviot was nice, but it 
felt like a normal bike; whereas the Appaloosa is definitely funky, is 
definitely something different, and has a very unusual alchemy of 
measurements that combines to a really special bike.

m






On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 9:25:41 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Michael -- thanks for this writeup. I was particularly struck by this:
>
> * I rode around their parking lot, doing laps around their building. I 
> really liked the bike. It felt nimble, like my LeMond cyclocross bike, but 
> more stable. I expected to dislike the handlebars, but in a snap judgment 
> decided I liked them.*
>
> All the positive reviews about the Appaloosa are making my defenses start 
> to crumble. I would very much like to try one out. I am more skeptical of 
> sweep back bars, but those too get much praise.
>
> Question: can you elaborate about the difference in handling and feel 
> between the Appaloosa and the Clem and the Chevs? I realize that this is 
> first impressions, but those sometimes reveal real qualities.
>
> (Aside: I wonder, if I went all weight weenie, if I could get an Appaloosa 
> down to UCI minimum ...)
>
> On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 5:06 PM, Michael Morrissey  > wrote:
>
>> I wrote a bit more about my new Rivendell on my blog:
>>
>> http://thedayweneverwenthome.blogspot.com/2016/06/riding-first-fifty-miles-fast-and-free.html
>>
>> It also includes my $0.02 on test riding other Rivendells in Walnut Creek!
>>
>> Thank you for the kind words of encouragement with the bike!
>>
>> - michael
>>
>>
>> On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 4:37:04 PM UTC-4, Michael Morrissey wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>> I finally got my Appaloosa together!  I'm really enjoying this bike!  
>>> The main thing I love about it is the lower bottom bracket height.  It's so 
>>> stable and comfy.  I built it up with a mish-mash of parts: some new, some 
>>> from my cyclocross bike, some from the ebay, some from the shelves at the 
>>> LBS!  I'm running 35mm tires now because that's what I have, but I'm going 
>>> to go fatter soon!  After wanting a Rivendell for 10 years, I am thrilled 
>>> to have one!
>>>
>>> Parts list:
>>> Paul neo-retro brakes and paul levers
>>> Sugino x White Industries cranks
>>> VP Vice pedals
>>> Wolf Tooth 94bcd x 32 tooth narrow wide chainring (really low gearing!)
>>> Sunrace 9 speed thumbshifter
>>> Nitto dirt drop stem with albatross bars
>>>
>>> m
>>>
>>> -- 
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[RBW] Re: worn out Brooks and Schwalbe - free for shipping

[bo richardson]

if the saddles are really shot maybe find a really good leatherworker and 
make a wallet?
already shaped to your butt...

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 4:56:26 AM UTC-7, Conway Bennett wrote:
>
> I'll put those saddles to use if they are available.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Fair winds,
>
> Captain conway
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[cyclotourist]

Here's the link: https://www.instagram.com/p/BGvQYc0LxKA/?taken-by=rivbike

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 6:48 AM, Daniel Jackson <
daniel.seth.jack...@gmail.com> wrote:

> New photo up on their Instagram feed. Check it out!
>
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David

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[RBW] Re: FS/FT Odds and Ends

[Phillip Hathaway]

Everything is sold. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Victoria Hypers

[cyclotourist]

I have Hypers on one of my bikes, and find them very comparable to the
Marathon Supremes. Great value in tires IMHO.

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 12:55 PM, Jay in Tel Aviv 
wrote:

> I got a pair of these on the recent Planet X sale. Arrived and installed
> today. They went on real easy and look great, but I did have time for a
> test ride. Looking forward to trying something new after several years of
> Marathon Supremes.
>
> Jay
>
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[RBW] Re: Sackville sighting at 1 and Levering.

[Lungimsam]

Saw him again today on black, undiscernable brand bike with what looks like 
shop sack on front and Sackville on back, reflecto triangle on back.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Mark Reimer]

One of mine started a few months after riding. The other was popping
instantly on the first ride. The third was pretty close to that too. I sold
the hub and moved on.

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 3:18 PM, Tom Harrop  wrote:

> Interesting, my hub had to be replaced for the same reason after a couple
> of years. I wonder if it happens because the end caps unscrew in use. I see
> they've changed the torque recommendation from 12 Nm to 20 Nm...
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Interesting, my hub had to be replaced for the same reason after a couple 
of years. I wonder if it happens because the end caps unscrew in use. I see 
they've changed the torque recommendation from 12 Nm to 20 Nm...

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Deacon Patrick]

Bob, sounds like you are narrowing things down a bit. Ultimately, it's all 
an experiment, even if the trial lasts for several years with tweaks along 
the way. Grin. I have no experience with 2 and 3, but I rode the Albatross 
bars on my Hunqapillar for two years before swapping to Albastache. For 
singletrack here on Pikes Peak, I have far less control in climbing and 
technical descending with my wings spread so wide (I presume what you mean 
when you describe the brake position of the moustache bars as "splayed 
out"?). The Albatross bars have a fairly decent climbing position for short 
climbs in the "sort-of-curves", but for me the wrists got uncomfortable 
fast there. Steering on climbs was twitchy because of width. On descents, I 
wanted my hands in the curves, but no brakes. I tried the moustache bars 
and found them uncomfortable, but the Albastache bars, for me, are the best 
of both worlds. Brakes where I want to be on descents, control for climbs. 
I'd suggest you not necessarily rule out the Albastache bar (depending on 
what "splayed out" means, because the Albatross bars are much more splayed 
out, at least as I would describe them).

Ultimately, the handlebar dilemma is muddy until you find the right one, 
then things suddenly clear up. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 1:58:33 PM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:
>
> Thanks Veloman and Ron.
>
> Ron, I dug around and found an old post of yours about the Map bar. 
> Definitely intriguing. I measured the top tube of my Rockhopper and it's 
> roughly three cm longer than that of my Sam.
>
> So here are the final few options I'm considering. 
>
> 1. Albatross w/ 120 mm Technomic stem.
> 2. Map w/ a dirt drop or short reach (60-80) Technomic.
> 3. Surly Open Bar w/ either a dirt drop or short  reach Technomic.
>
> I love the Albas w/ 100 mm Technomic on my Sam, but the bar ends hit my 
> knees on tight turns if I'm not careful. I also use the VO seat post with 
> long setback with that setup to get a bit more stretched out. 
> Realistically, the 120 mm stem would've solved that issue, but I had 
> already glued the Meisha's grips. Rookie move! Might feel the need to 
> change that someday...
>
> Going with the Albas and some Deore thumb shifters makes sense because 
> it's a known quantity. I'm less apt to try something new since my budget is 
> tight (read: non-existent!). 
>
> Bottom line: I just need to choose because I'd probably love any of these 
> setups and I just want to get this bike on the trail! :)
>
> Bob
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Mark Reimer]

Yup, three times. Pawls kept slipping and making loud pops and pings.

On Fri, Jun 17, 2016 at 3:00 PM, Tom Harrop  wrote:

> Thanks Mark. Hmm, you're probably right about looking elsewhere, but there
> are an assortment of squeaks, clicks and clunks coming from the area.
>
> By the way, was it the ratchet ring that your hub went back to Phil for?
>
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[RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Thanks Mark. Hmm, you're probably right about looking elsewhere, but there 
are an assortment of squeaks, clicks and clunks coming from the area.

By the way, was it the ratchet ring that your hub went back to Phil for?

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[kielsun]

Thanks Veloman and Ron.

Ron, I dug around and found an old post of yours about the Map bar. Definitely 
intriguing. I measured the top tube of my Rockhopper and it's roughly three cm 
longer than that of my Sam.

So here are the final few options I'm considering. 

1. Albatross w/ 120 mm Technomic stem.
2. Map w/ a dirt drop or short reach (60-80) Technomic.
3. Surly Open Bar w/ either a dirt drop or short  reach Technomic.

I love the Albas w/ 100 mm Technomic on my Sam, but the bar ends hit my knees 
on tight turns if I'm not careful. I also use the VO seat post with long 
setback with that setup to get a bit more stretched out. Realistically, the 120 
mm stem would've solved that issue, but I had already glued the Meisha's grips. 
Rookie move! Might feel the need to change that someday...

Going with the Albas and some Deore thumb shifters makes sense because it's a 
known quantity. I'm less apt to try something new since my budget is tight 
(read: non-existent!). 

Bottom line: I just need to choose because I'd probably love any of these 
setups and I just want to get this bike on the trail! :)

Bob


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[RBW] Victoria Hypers

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I got a pair of these on the recent Planet X sale. Arrived and installed 
today. They went on real easy and look great, but I did have time for a 
test ride. Looking forward to trying something new after several years of 
Marathon Supremes.

Jay

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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes, definitely not a homage, certainly based in part on the pure 
functionality of 80s mountain bikes. The vintage ones I've had (Canyon 
Express, Miyata Ridge Runner, Mongoose) all had chainstay lengths of, off 
the top of my head, 43-46cm, which is right around the touring bike 
territory of the day. But if you have read Petersen's writing on the chain 
stay thing, you'll know that they had to get special tubing drawn because 
nobody makes, or ever made, chain stay tubing in these new lengths, which 
are significantly longer than vintage mountain bike chainstays.

As far as tight turns, again, the designer specifically addresses the wider 
turning radius for U turns, which was, to quote, who cares? The other 
handling characteristics gained with the longer stays trump this and the 
wheel hopping based on his functional goals for the bike's handling. To say 
shortening the stays by a centimeter or two would result in a "better 
handling" bicycle does not say anything, really. 

I would be surprised if the Clem chainstay length goes down--looks like 
most other frames are heading up toward Clem length territory.

I don't recall reading anything about chainring clearance being a factor in 
the decision to build with longer stays. And heel clearance for panniers is 
an ancillary benefit, not the primary reason for longer stays.

Even though this is the Internet, I'm not a bike designer. I've ridden lots 
of bicycles, but so what. I just find it odd to argue that the Clem 
chainstays should be shorter. In that case, probably a different bike is 
the answer, and there are a few to choose from. Or, maybe Grant will 
realize he is "90% there" and  rethink the extra long stays and shorten 
them up on batch number 3 (he did shorten up the stays on the tandem, but 
that's a different design brief). But I think they ride these prototypes 
extensively, and from what he has written, he seems clear on what the 
benefits are for the kind of bikes he wants to create. Now please excuse me 
while I go try to pop a wheelie on my Clementine.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:35:37 AM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> How long is too long!? The bike was made as a homage to or at least 
> evolved from the idea of early 80's mountain bikes,  which had longer 
> stays, steel forks, etc.


The thing is on your large, the chain stays could probably be 1 to 1.5 
> inches shorter and you still wouldn't have to worry about clipping the 
> pannier and you would get the benefit of a better handling bike. 
>


 

> The difference is in the 80's they made the stays long because they had 
> too, their limited choice of components determined frame design to a large 
> extent, but even then the bikes were built by road racers & they weren't 
> going to make them any longer than they had to.
> Today, we have too many choices,  you could do like many 29'ers & curve 
> the seat tube to make a very compact rear triangle (I am not advocating 
> that). So, in the end how do you know when the chainstay is too long? 
> Simple,  when it's longer than it needs to be! Need heal clearance for bags 
> and panniers, etc. Fine determine how much that needs to be, but no more! 
> My Clementine has 2.2 wide tires on it now & could probably go 2.4 without 
> much fuss.  Amazing when you consider that the stays are almost straight 
> and the bike uses a narrow BB shell! This all tells me that they are too 
> long, even if you did not have the anecdotal evidence of riders saying how 
> hard it is to lift the front wheel over obstacles. I also notice the 
> additional wheelbase in tight turns, I really have to slow down more than I 
> normally would,  because otherwise I clip the inside apex or blow off the 
> outside of the turn.
> One more thing is in addition to the medium I have a small and partly 
> because it uses 26" wheels, the stays are much shorter. I think they are 
> still slightly long,  but they feel much better, the small feels a little 
> taughter.
> OK whining aside I think the Clems are great bikes, they definitely have a 
> unique character & charm. The design is 90% there, just needs some 
> tweaking, chain stay length is the main thing though. 

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[RBW] FS/T: Remainders/Tektro, Nitto, Shimano, my oh!

[Mike K.]

Alright. I still have a handful of good things in my garage that need good 
homes as I attempt to build out my bike.

1. Tektro CR720's - $30, whole bike's worth
Big thanks for Jack for the hook up, unfortunately there isn't enough 
clearance on my '87 Voyageur for the brake pads to fit between the frame 
and the rims, so I'm sticking with the stock Dia-Compe.

2. 120mm Threadless Nitto UI-5EX stem - $60
Bought this new for a Crosscheck I never ended up purchasing. 

3. Shimano Z-series Derailleurs, front (28.6mm clamp) and rear - $30  
Have been using them for years, but recently upgraded to M700's, yep, 
Deerhead, so the Z's gotta go.

4. Shimano MT60 FD (28.6mm clamp) - $15
Do you guys have a certain component you feel like you "stock up on" 
without realizing it? That's me with front derailleurs.

All prices include shipping CONUS

Or, if anyone has some Paul Thumbies lying around, I'd be interested in a 
trade.

Pictures available here: https://www.flickr.com/gp/128855412@N03/o7bQ7E 


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[RBW] FS: Remainders/Tektro, Nitto, Shimano, my oh!

[Mike K.]

Alright. I still have a handful of good things in my garage that need good 
homes as I attempt to build out my bike.

1. Tektro CR720's - $30, whole bike's worth
Big thanks for Jack for the hook up, unfortunately there isn't enough 
clearance on my '87 Voyageur for the brake pads to fit between the frame 
and the rims, so I'm sticking with the stock Dia-Compe.

2. 120mm Threadless Nitto UI-5EX stem - $60
Bought this new for a Crosscheck I never ended up purchasing. 

3. Shimano Z-series Derailleurs, front (28.6mm clamp) and rear - $30  
Have been using them for years, but recently upgraded to M700's, yep, 
Deerhead, so the Z's gotta go.

4. Shimano MT60 FD (28.6mm clamp) - $15
Do you guys have a certain component you feel like you "stock up on" 
without realizing it? That's me with front derailleurs.

All prices include shipping CONUS

Pictures available here: https://www.flickr.com/gp/128855412@N03/o7bQ7E

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Will]

I've done front racks, Wald baskets, and such... the solution I evolved to 
was a Tubus rear with Ortlieb bags. Why? 

1) Rivs handle better with rear loads. It a design thing. 
2) small front racks with large basket overhangs are fussy. 
3) front racks have very modest capacity (unless they are the low-rider 
pannier variety)
3) front racks with baskets often present challenges at public bike racks. 
They don't play well with crowded situations. 

My rear Ortlieb roll-top carries everything. It attaches/detaches in about 
5 seconds. It's stable. The large capacity and the fact that it's on/off 
quickly makes it super-convenient.  

My recco would be to skip the front rack expense and complexity, focus on 
what makes the rear work. Solve the rear opportunity first. 

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 11:49:57 AM UTC-5, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> The reason I don't have any specifics is that I am literally trying to 
> compile a list of 
>
> *all the front racks that fit without bodging, and that are cheaper than 
> Nitto.*$5,200 is a lot of money; our budget is blown for a while, so this 
> won't be a soon-purchase.  I just want to know what works.  All of them.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS/FT Odds and Ends

[Phillip Hathaway]

The Nitto lugged stem is still available, everything else is sold. The stem 
is a 10 cm. I am offering it now for $110 shipping included. Thanks to all 
who were interested.



>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Jon Craig]

The reason I don't have any specifics is that I am literally trying to 
compile a list of 

*all the front racks that fit without bodging, and that are cheaper than 
Nitto.*$5,200 is a lot of money; our budget is blown for a while, so this 
won't be a soon-purchase.  I just want to know what works.  All of them.

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Philip Kim]

Jon, congrats! 

The reason Nitto is well regarded is because the quality is really high, 
which matters the more times you ride your bike with more things. I believe 
all Nitto racks are still brazed by the same woman in Japan for the past 
decade or maybe even two. I know you bought two Riv's which is a lot of 
money so I can understand your apprehension at a more expensive rack.

Any good rack that won't fail in a couple of years will be $70-200 
depending on how much you want to carry. So to have a specific size, price 
range, and intended use is helpful for us to give suggestions so we're not 
all aiming in the dark and can better help you.

A reason Howard suggest posting a WTB is because a lot of us are bike 
tinkerers and have parts/accessories that are sitting around that we would 
gladly see being used. So you can usually get racks and parts cheaper this 
way, and most of the stuff is in good to great condition. So whenever or if 
ever the time comes for you to buy a front rack, then it will be helpful to 
post to this list. If you don't have a set idea, then being specific in 
your intended use, etc. always helps. A lot of knowledgeable people on 
here, and will go the extra mile to make measurements, take pictures, etc.

All things considered - Soma has a couple of front racks that are cheaper 
that might work, mainly their Alloy front rack is around $35, but their 
shipping can be outrageous. Another option would be to get a Wald front 
basket set up ($25ish). This will connect to your handlebars and have legs 
that connect to your fork dropouts. I highly recommend against the wald 
basket, unless you attach it to a front rack. I had the Basket set up, and 
the screws vibrated loose within a week. A Tara Tubus Duo Lowrider rack is 
a little over $50, which might be your best option though you might need to 
use P-Clamps. Another option would be to try to find a cheap rear rack that 
you can jerry rig to use as a front rack. Not a lot of options if you're 
trying to stay below $100.

Surly front racks (Surly Nice Rack, 24 pack rack, etc.)  as well as Minoura 
Gamoh front racks. Velo Orange also has a Constructeur front rack that I've 
also used with great success (these are all in the $100 and over range).

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 8:46:12 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P1QC4YV-EI0/V2PwuyaVQDI/Be0/EWKwiZ3lkfcetJfc1H1fLx5_lZc_jGcUwCLcB/s1600/sam-20160617.jpg>
>
> So, last Saturday I finally bought a Sam (55, blue, noodle)!  (BTW A1 
> Cyclery in Indianapolis rocks!)  (And truth be told, I'm now a 2-Sam 
> household as on Wednesday we went back and my wife got one too - 51, 
> orange, noodle. :D )
>
> Anyway - I had an old Trek rear rack so I black-nailpolished the Trek 
> logos and put it on - it fits great!   
>
> A front rack I do not have, and I'm wondering what ones fit well on Sam 
> without a lot of bodging.  NIttos, yeah, they're gorgeous, but they're also 
> bordering on blasphemously expensive so I'm looking for lower cost options.
>
> Since someone will demand it, I've attached a pic of my Sam sitting in my 
> office as I type this.
>

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[RBW] Re: Show Bill your British Racing Green Bike.

[Leslie]

Rambouillet:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/8351735340/in/album-72157623199721925/
 
   



On Thursday, June 9, 2016 at 12:51:28 PM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> All in good fun, let's show Bill our BRG bikes!
> I'll start - BMC Monster Cross single speed 'road bike for dirt' - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BGbx9nOMmeI/
> David 
> Chicago
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Brian Campbell]

+1 This is your best low cost option.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 11:15:31 AM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Soma makes an aluminum front rack that would fit the bill - it's a good 
> platform for a Wald basket.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 7:46:12 AM UTC-5, Jon Craig wrote:
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P1QC4YV-EI0/V2PwuyaVQDI/Be0/EWKwiZ3lkfcetJfc1H1fLx5_lZc_jGcUwCLcB/s1600/sam-20160617.jpg>
>>
>> So, last Saturday I finally bought a Sam (55, blue, noodle)!  (BTW A1 
>> Cyclery in Indianapolis rocks!)  (And truth be told, I'm now a 2-Sam 
>> household as on Wednesday we went back and my wife got one too - 51, 
>> orange, noodle. :D )
>>
>> Anyway - I had an old Trek rear rack so I black-nailpolished the Trek 
>> logos and put it on - it fits great!   
>>
>> A front rack I do not have, and I'm wondering what ones fit well on Sam 
>> without a lot of bodging.  NIttos, yeah, they're gorgeous, but they're also 
>> bordering on blasphemously expensive so I'm looking for lower cost options.
>>
>> Since someone will demand it, I've attached a pic of my Sam sitting in my 
>> office as I type this.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[Garth]

  FWIW in regard to chainring clearance you don't have to go to super long 
stays in order to get this though. The original Stumpjumer is a great 
example of design that had the clearance for both wide tires AND any crank 
you wanted. In fact the original Stumpy came with TA cranks.  Why no one 
else uses a design like this rather than insisting on the same ol' same ol' 
design who knows but this just works. 

http://bicycle.images.budgetbicyclectr.com//media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/270x270/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/p/specialized_stumpjumpersilver16_1.jpg
from here:
http://budgetbicyclectr.com/1982-specialized-stump-jumper-mountain-bicycle-22.html


On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 11:27:11 AM UTC-4, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I'll gladly take the ability to run normal cranks with low-ish q-factor 
> compared to other bikes that fit large tires if the exchange is that tight 
> turns are an issue. 
> For chainstay length, pannier clearance is completely dependent on the 
> user (foot size and pedaling position). I'd certainly take a little longer 
> than necessary chainstay for pannier clearance, than one that is too short. 
> On my large Clem, I don't have to worry about clipping a rear pannier - 
> that's something I've never experienced on a bike, including using smaller 
> panniers on a touring bike that has longer chainstays than a typical bike.
> For me, the chainstays are exactly what I want them to be. 
> David
> Chicago
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Philip Kim]

The reason Nitto is well regarded is because the quality is really 
unmatched IMO anywhere on the market, which matters the more times you ride 
your bike with more things. I believe all Nitto racks are still brazed by 
the same woman in Japan for the past decade or maybe even two. Also made 
out of steel, so are stronger than some of the cheaper ones made of 
aluminum. I used to avoid Nitto racks because of the expense, but after two 
racks I bought from REI failed on me with regular commuting loads, I 
decided to pony up and get Nitto Marks rack. This rack is smaller and 
lighter and carries the same amount of loads, and I haven't even had a 
strut wiggle since I got it a couple of years ago.

It might be more helpful if you gave a price range, and what type of things 
you are trying to carry. Size and weight helps.

All things considered - Soma has a couple of front racks that are cheaper 
that might work, mainly their Alloy front rack their Porteur and maybe 
their Elysee Champ front rack. I would also look into the Surly front racks 
(Surly Nice Rack, 24 pack rack, etc.)  as well as Minoura Gamoh front 
racks. Velo Orange also has a Constructeur front rack that I've also used 
with great success.

If you want the option of front panniers, you'll have to spend more.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:25:09 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> Nittos are just way, way, way too expensive.
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:12:19 AM UTC-4, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>>
>> I have a Cheviot, which has the same brake setup as your Sam, and use 
>> Mark's Nitto Rack with a Wald basket.  Can't go wrong as the rack was 
>> specifically developed for Rivendell's with caliper brakes.
>>
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r1.htm
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[masmojo]

The thing is on your large, the chain stays could probably be 1 to 1.5 inches 
shorter and you still wouldn't have to worry about clipping the pannier and you 
would get the benefit of a better handling bike. Too long better than too short 
for sure, but how much too long? Maybe for me, it's partly to do with where I 
ride & how I ride!? I rode cruisers/Klunkers/mountain bikes for 35 years, so I 
am pretty used to long stays, but it probably also makes me a little more aware 
of when they are too long.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Abcyclehank]

* that was suppose to be PRE-blog during initial design then photos from the 
factory when Will and another RBW employee visited.

Ryan

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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[David Banzer]

I'll gladly take the ability to run normal cranks with low-ish q-factor 
compared to other bikes that fit large tires if the exchange is that tight 
turns are an issue. 
For chainstay length, pannier clearance is completely dependent on the user 
(foot size and pedaling position). I'd certainly take a little longer than 
necessary chainstay for pannier clearance, than one that is too short. On 
my large Clem, I don't have to worry about clipping a rear pannier - that's 
something I've never experienced on a bike, including using smaller 
panniers on a touring bike that has longer chainstays than a typical bike.
For me, the chainstays are exactly what I want them to be. 
David
Chicago

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:35:37 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> You know it's a bit subjective, the bike is BIG and even with shorter 
> stays it would still be big, but longs stays . . . How long is too long!? 
> The bike was made as a homage to or at least evolved from the idea of early 
> 80's mountain bikes,  which had longer stays, steel forks, etc. The 
> difference is in the 80's they made the stays long because they had too, 
> their limited choice of components determined frame design to a large 
> extent, but even then the bikes were built by road racers & they weren't 
> going to make them any longer than they had to.
> Today, we have too many choices,  you could do like many 29'ers & curve 
> the seat tube to make a very compact rear triangle (I am not advocating 
> that). So, in the end how do you know when the chainstay is too long? 
> Simple,  when it's longer than it needs to be! Need heal clearance for bags 
> and panniers, etc. Fine determine how much that needs to be, but no more! 
> My Clementine has 2.2 wide tires on it now & could probably go 2.4 without 
> much fuss.  Amazing when you consider that the stays are almost straight 
> and the bike uses a narrow BB shell! This all tells me that they are too 
> long, even if you did not have the anecdotal evidence of riders saying how 
> hard it is to lift the front wheel over obstacles. I also notice the 
> additional wheelbase in tight turns, I really have to slow down more than I 
> normally would,  because otherwise I clip the inside apex or blow off the 
> outside of the turn.
> One more thing is in addition to the medium I have a small and partly 
> because it uses 26" wheels, the stays are much shorter. I think they are 
> still slightly long,  but they feel much better, the small feels a little 
> taughter.
> OK whining aside I think the Clems are great bikes, they definitely have a 
> unique character & charm. The design is 90% there, just needs some 
> tweaking, chain stay length is the main thing though. 

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[RBW] Re: New Hunq 650b

[iamkeith]

I'm with you, Bill.  But based on those other rumored sizes, it sure seems 
promising that a 56 or 57 might be in the works.  I've complained so loud 
and for so long about that size being missing (I even had a pre-sale locked 
in when the model first came out, but backed out over concerns), that I'm 
afraid I'll have no choice but to put my money where my mouth is and buy 
one.   Looks like I need to think about selling some bikes...

Brings up a question for you, specifically, though:  As you'll remember 
helping me analyze, I felt like I had the exact same 
falling-in-between-sizes issue with the 55 & 58 Appaloosas. But in that 
case I think I'd have leaned toward the larger one, with the bike being 
slightly more road than trail oriented.   How come you got the 55, and what 
do you think of the fit, now that you have it?  

Regarding the Hunqapillar, the increased clearance news is good to hear 
too!  I suppose that if they didn't increase that, but DID lengthen the 
chainstays even more, it would start to have too much overlap with the 
Appaloosa.  This keeps it unique and even more trail-ready.   *One thing I 
really hope happens is longer fork legs!*   I don't know if this is for 
sure the case with the current Hunquapillar (maybe Patrick can comment) 
but, on my 700c Clem which supposedly has a Hunquapillar fork, the 
axle-to-crown height is far and away the most limiting dimension in terms 
of what size tire I can fit.  Especially with fenders.   Width could 
probably accommodate a 2.8" tire, but the height just barely takes a 2.3.


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 3:09:15 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> What will the sizes be?  On the instagram it claims to be a 53, and 
> somebody asked about "the 59" like it's a think and Deacon says there is a 
> 60.  What are the nominal sizes?  I was kind of tempted by the Hunqapillar 
> at times, and thought the 54 was a little small, and the 58 was a little 
> big.  What's the next size up from 53?  What's the full size run?
>
> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 1:48:50 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> I talked with Riv yesterday, and they said that the new 60 Hunqapillar 
>> would have about 3cm longer chainstays than my original geometry 62 
>> Hunqapillar. Sounds like it is mostly for increased tire clearance and 
>> won't be Appaloosa long.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 6:42:06 AM UTC-6, Philip Kim wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Looks like Riv got in at least one 650b Hunqapillar (screen shot from 
>>> their instagram)
>>>
>>> Link! 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Abcyclehank]

Grant has shared some early pics per blog with me and asked at that time for me 
not to share them. 
I second emailing Grant and he will send a link to the blog and keep you 
abreast of all details pertaining to the HHH.
He is very open to questions and even some suggestions but likely wants the 
input coming from the subgroup of potential buyers.  
As much as I love 99.9% of the content posted.  One or two posters may critique 
unnecessarily on a project that has been requested by customers for many moons.
Sincerely,
Ryan Hankinson
West Michigan

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[David Banzer]

Soma makes an aluminum front rack that would fit the bill - it's a good 
platform for a Wald basket.
David
Chicago

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 7:46:12 AM UTC-5, Jon Craig wrote:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P1QC4YV-EI0/V2PwuyaVQDI/Be0/EWKwiZ3lkfcetJfc1H1fLx5_lZc_jGcUwCLcB/s1600/sam-20160617.jpg>
>
> So, last Saturday I finally bought a Sam (55, blue, noodle)!  (BTW A1 
> Cyclery in Indianapolis rocks!)  (And truth be told, I'm now a 2-Sam 
> household as on Wednesday we went back and my wife got one too - 51, 
> orange, noodle. :D )
>
> Anyway - I had an old Trek rear rack so I black-nailpolished the Trek 
> logos and put it on - it fits great!   
>
> A front rack I do not have, and I'm wondering what ones fit well on Sam 
> without a lot of bodging.  NIttos, yeah, they're gorgeous, but they're also 
> bordering on blasphemously expensive so I'm looking for lower cost options.
>
> Since someone will demand it, I've attached a pic of my Sam sitting in my 
> office as I type this.
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[velomann]

Another vote for the On-One Mary bars.

Mike

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 5:36:35 AM UTC-7, kielsun wrote:
>
> I hesitated posting this here, but it's definitely a Riv-inspired 
> conundrum. I'm building up a late 80s Rockhopper and having trouble finding 
> the right handlebar setup. It will primarily be a trail and off-road 
> camping bike with knobbies. I have my Sam for road riding and don't want 
> much overlap between the two.
>
> The frame is borderline too small for me. It's an 18" and I would probably 
> benefit from a 19-19.5", but it should work fine once it's dialed, and it's 
> also just a stop-gap until I can save up for a Surly Troll frameset or 
> something similar. 
>
> Riv Content: I want it to be comfortable (but still nimble)--bars at 
> saddle height!
>
> I've considered going with a standard Technomic and Albas, dirt drop with 
> straight-ish/mountain riser bars like the Soma Clarence, or even trying a 
> threadless conversion stem with drop-style bars. I have cockpit parts for 
> any setup: MTB levers and Deore thumb shifters and aero levers and Ultegra 
> bar-ends. 
>
> I've already tried a dirt drop stem with moustache bars. This created too 
> much reach because of the bar profile and the non-relaxed geometry of the 
> bike. Anything that I should consider that I'm missing?
>
> I welcome any and all advice based on previous builds or experience. I'm 
> pretty new at working on bikes, so you won't offend me with newbie advice. 
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Bob
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Minh]

Jon,

If you want us to help you, you need to help us.  People here are going to 
recommend the Nitto options because many of us have tried the other options 
and ended up with Nitto.  RBW design their bikes with those racks in mind, 
so generally speaking they are the closest to plug and play--not to say 
others won't work but those are the racks they sell/use so it makes sense 
they work the best.  

If they are outside your price range, than you need to define a price range 
for us.  you also need to think about whether you need to carry panniers as 
a full size rack is different from a mini front rack (both in price and 
mounting options).  

i'm not going to try and convince you to the value of nitto (you should 
define value for yourself), but if you want useful input you need to define 
a few more parameters.  

as John Stowe points out, there are front racks that account for caliper 
brakes and mounting through the center hole

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:00:38 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> Any front rack that fits easily without a lot of bodging would be fine.
>
> I usually would want silver, but since my rear rack is a spare Trek that I 
> had around (which is black), a black front rack would balance it out.
>
> As far as size, anything!  I'm really just trying to gather a list of what 
> fits, for later purchase.
>
> A lot of stuff for instance requires using the fork crown hole. Can't, as 
> it's used on the Sam (by the brake).
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:57:36 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>>
>> Jon,
>>
>> could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
>> rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?
>>
>> all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
>> alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
>> rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, 
>>> I just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
>>> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:

 Jon
 Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
 rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
 know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
 no time. 
 Safe riding

 Howard
 Livonia Mi

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike day! Apppaloosa!

[Ryan Fleming]

The JAs sound like fabulous bikes, but why am I not surprised by this? 
Sound like superb touring bikes

On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 8:25:41 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Michael -- thanks for this writeup. I was particularly struck by this:
>
> * I rode around their parking lot, doing laps around their building. I 
> really liked the bike. It felt nimble, like my LeMond cyclocross bike, but 
> more stable. I expected to dislike the handlebars, but in a snap judgment 
> decided I liked them.*
>
> All the positive reviews about the Appaloosa are making my defenses start 
> to crumble. I would very much like to try one out. I am more skeptical of 
> sweep back bars, but those too get much praise.
>
> Question: can you elaborate about the difference in handling and feel 
> between the Appaloosa and the Clem and the Chevs? I realize that this is 
> first impressions, but those sometimes reveal real qualities.
>
> (Aside: I wonder, if I went all weight weenie, if I could get an Appaloosa 
> down to UCI minimum ...)
>
> On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 5:06 PM, Michael Morrissey  > wrote:
>
>> I wrote a bit more about my new Rivendell on my blog:
>>
>> http://thedayweneverwenthome.blogspot.com/2016/06/riding-first-fifty-miles-fast-and-free.html
>>
>> It also includes my $0.02 on test riding other Rivendells in Walnut Creek!
>>
>> Thank you for the kind words of encouragement with the bike!
>>
>> - michael
>>
>>
>> On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 4:37:04 PM UTC-4, Michael Morrissey wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>> I finally got my Appaloosa together!  I'm really enjoying this bike!  
>>> The main thing I love about it is the lower bottom bracket height.  It's so 
>>> stable and comfy.  I built it up with a mish-mash of parts: some new, some 
>>> from my cyclocross bike, some from the ebay, some from the shelves at the 
>>> LBS!  I'm running 35mm tires now because that's what I have, but I'm going 
>>> to go fatter soon!  After wanting a Rivendell for 10 years, I am thrilled 
>>> to have one!
>>>
>>> Parts list:
>>> Paul neo-retro brakes and paul levers
>>> Sugino x White Industries cranks
>>> VP Vice pedals
>>> Wolf Tooth 94bcd x 32 tooth narrow wide chainring (really low gearing!)
>>> Sunrace 9 speed thumbshifter
>>> Nitto dirt drop stem with albatross bars
>>>
>>> m
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Any benefits to the longer CS's?

[masmojo]

You know it's a bit subjective, the bike is BIG and even with shorter stays it 
would still be big, but longs stays . . . How long is too long!? The bike was 
made as a homage to or at least evolved from the idea of early 80's mountain 
bikes,  which had longer stays, steel forks, etc. The difference is in the 80's 
they made the stays long because they had too, their limited choice of 
components determined frame design to a large extent, but even then the bikes 
were built by road racers & they weren't going to make them any longer than 
they had to.
Today, we have too many choices,  you could do like many 29'ers & curve the 
seat tube to make a very compact rear triangle (I am not advocating that). So, 
in the end how do you know when the chainstay is too long? Simple,  when it's 
longer than it needs to be! Need heal clearance for bags and panniers, etc. 
Fine determine how much that needs to be, but no more! 
My Clementine has 2.2 wide tires on it now & could probably go 2.4 without much 
fuss.  Amazing when you consider that the stays are almost straight and the 
bike uses a narrow BB shell! This all tells me that they are too long, even if 
you did not have the anecdotal evidence of riders saying how hard it is to lift 
the front wheel over obstacles. I also notice the additional wheelbase in tight 
turns, I really have to slow down more than I normally would,  because 
otherwise I clip the inside apex or blow off the outside of the turn.
One more thing is in addition to the medium I have a small and partly because 
it uses 26" wheels, the stays are much shorter. I think they are still slightly 
long,  but they feel much better, the small feels a little taughter.
OK whining aside I think the Clems are great bikes, they definitely have a 
unique character & charm. The design is 90% there, just needs some tweaking, 
chain stay length is the main thing though. 

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Mark Reimer]

Tom,

There are indeed three bearings in there. I had my bearings go in my Phil 
cassette hub in one year, but that was through some nasty Canadian winter 
riding. Phil ended up warrantying it, but for other reasons.

I'd be surprised if your bearings were the cause of a squeak though. In my 
experience, worn bearings tend to click, not squeak. When you have the 
wheel out of the frame, turn the axle with your fingers. Is it smooth? If 
you can't feel notching I'd continue the squeak hunt elsewhere before 
attempting to pull those bearings. 

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 3:40:26 AM UTC-5, Tom Harrop wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> This could be a silly question, but it's the internet so I'll ask anyway.
>
> I'm planning to change the bearings in my Phil Wood "touring" cassette 
> hub. I can't see instructions for replacing the bearings in that model on 
> their website. There is a PDF for their FSA hubs, which are different to 
> the cassette hubs.
>
> There is another PDF explaining servicing the ratchet mechanism, but it 
> doesn't say anything about bearing replacement: 
> http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/cassette_hub_instructions_022015.pdf
>
> My questions:
>
>1. how do I get the bearings out of the hub shell and freehub?
>2. (the silly one) I would expect the hub to contain two bearings, but 
>in that PDF, it looks like there are three: one on the drive side of the 
>hub shell (labelled D in the PDF linked above), one in the freehub body 
>(labelled M), and one on the left side of the hub shell (not in the 
>diagram, but I know it's there because I can see it). Are there really 
>three bearings? Should I replace them all?
>
> If anyone wants context, the hub is about 3 years old and seems to be 
> making noises. I am chasing a squeak that happens once every time the rear 
> wheel goes round, but only when I'm on the bike with my weight on the 
> saddle. I checked for loose spokes and they're all fine. The tyre isn't 
> rubbing, so hub bearing is my next guess!
>
> Thanks for reading,
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Kainalu]

If you want to carry something weighing much more than the rack itself, I'd 
suggest a fairly cheap black Tubus lowrider with some panniers.
-Kai 
Brooklyn NY 

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Ritchey Logic Crankset

[Mark Reimer]

Hah!!! I enjoyed that joke more than I probably should have. 

On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 7:45:20 PM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> Does that mean when you wrote $100.00 you really mean, like, $65.00?
>
> On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 5:04:25 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> Yes. I was writing in Celsius.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>>
>> On Jun 16, 2016, at 2:03 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> When Eric says 100bcd he means 110mm BCD
>>
>> 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 1:55:27 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes 100bcd
>>>
>>> No … no mounts for a third ring. Double only.
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS Lightly used honey B17 Imperial

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Sorry for the oversized images.
You get a more reasonably sized thumbnail if you scroll down. But for some 
reason 1 of them is upside down. Go figure!


On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 5:23:23 PM UTC+3, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I tried this for a few months, replaced with a Rivit.
> $90 shipped Sunday from Tel Aviv or in 2 weeks from NH - buyer's choice.
>
> Jay
>
>

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[RBW] If you happen to live in Portland, Oregon...

[John A. Bennett]

...and like Rivendell Bicycle Works, our 1st Anniversary Ride & Party is 
next Saturday, June 25. 

It would be great to see you.

Details in this link:

http://us10.campaign-archive1.com/?u=ee06522cb612a1b08f4cb63b1=be9011e131=[UNIQID]

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Jon Craig]

Nittos are just way, way, way too expensive.

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:12:19 AM UTC-4, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>
> I have a Cheviot, which has the same brake setup as your Sam, and use 
> Mark's Nitto Rack with a Wald basket.  Can't go wrong as the rack was 
> specifically developed for Rivendell's with caliper brakes.
>
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r1.htm
>
> Ryan
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[John Stowe]

Having a caliper brake doesn't preclude mounting a rack at the fork crown. 
In fact, it's handy because it means you already have a bolt! I have my 
Pass & Stow rack and a fender mounted on my Sam using the front brake 
bolt: https://flic.kr/p/dURLir

-John

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:00:38 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> Any front rack that fits easily without a lot of bodging would be fine.
>
> I usually would want silver, but since my rear rack is a spare Trek that I 
> had around (which is black), a black front rack would balance it out.
>
> As far as size, anything!  I'm really just trying to gather a list of what 
> fits, for later purchase.
>
> A lot of stuff for instance requires using the fork crown hole. Can't, as 
> it's used on the Sam (by the brake).
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:57:36 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>>
>> Jon,
>>
>> could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
>> rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?
>>
>> all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
>> alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
>> rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, 
>>> I just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
>>> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:

 Jon
 Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
 rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
 know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
 no time. 
 Safe riding

 Howard
 Livonia Mi

>>>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Ryan Thompson]

I have a Cheviot, which has the same brake setup as your Sam, and use 
Mark's Nitto Rack with a Wald basket.  Can't go wrong as the rack was 
specifically developed for Rivendell's with caliper brakes.

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r1.htm

Ryan

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 10:00:38 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:

> Any front rack that fits easily without a lot of bodging would be fine.
>
> I usually would want silver, but since my rear rack is a spare Trek that I 
> had around (which is black), a black front rack would balance it out.
>
> As far as size, anything!  I'm really just trying to gather a list of what 
> fits, for later purchase.
>
> A lot of stuff for instance requires using the fork crown hole. Can't, as 
> it's used on the Sam (by the brake).
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:57:36 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>>
>> Jon,
>>
>> could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
>> rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?
>>
>> all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
>> alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
>> rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!
>>
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>>>
>>> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, 
>>> I just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
>>> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>>>
>>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:

 Jon
 Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
 rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
 know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
 no time. 
 Safe riding

 Howard
 Livonia Mi

>>>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Minh]

Jon,

could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?

all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!


On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>
> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, I 
> just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:
>>
>> Jon
>> Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
>> rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
>> know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
>> no time. 
>> Safe riding
>>
>> Howard
>> Livonia Mi
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Jon Craig]

Any front rack that fits easily without a lot of bodging would be fine.

I usually would want silver, but since my rear rack is a spare Trek that I 
had around (which is black), a black front rack would balance it out.

As far as size, anything!  I'm really just trying to gather a list of what 
fits, for later purchase.

A lot of stuff for instance requires using the fork crown hole. Can't, as 
it's used on the Sam (by the brake).

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:57:36 AM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>
> Jon,
>
> could you be a little more specific on what you're looking for?  a small 
> rack, a full-size rack? what do you want to carry? a trunk sack? panniers?
>
> all of my experience is with the nitto options, so can't comment on 
> alternatives--i'm also a bit of a color matcher, so putting a silver nitto 
> rack with a black blackburn wouldn't work for me!
>
>
> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:44:22 AM UTC-4, Jon Craig wrote:
>>
>> "WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, 
>> I just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
>> Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)
>>
>> On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:
>>>
>>> Jon
>>> Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
>>> rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
>>> know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
>>> no time. 
>>> Safe riding
>>>
>>> Howard
>>> Livonia Mi
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Daniel Jackson]

New photo up on their Instagram feed. Check it out!

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Kieran J]

Email Grant and get on the HHH mailing list. He's sending out updates 
almost every other day. Not sure the protocol with posting HHH clique stuff 
publicly ..

They've recently been doing some road/trail testing around Riv HQ. I think 
they aim to have some prototype demos built up soon.

KJ


On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 7:08:01 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> A recent posting on the Tandem at Hobbes List described an encounter with 
> GP and two Rivendell prototype tandems.  Fabulous.  There are still too 
> many tamdemistas riding on 28mm tires and mesmerized by lighter means 
> faster.   We ride a number of tandem rallies each summer and increasingly 
> see that they are filled with more mature riders. open to a more 
> comfortable ride, so I think there is an opportunity to expand the Riv 
> philosophy to them.  Now the market is dominated by Santana and Co-Motion 
> both of whom seem inclined to push the latest invention over common sense. 
>  There are good custom builders who make very ridable bikes, like Bilenky, 
> and no shortage of custom builders selling $20,000 CF, magnesium, and 
> bamboo bikes with electronic shifting.  That leaves a big window for a 
> practical, fun tandem.
>
> As an aside, during the recent Canadian Tandem Rally, on a blistering hot 
> day, we found ourselves struggling to stay up with a couple, who appeared 
> to be about 10 years older than us.  They were riding a recumbent, which 
> are notoriously slow going up hill and  I kept thinking I would overtake 
> them on the next short hill.  It never happened, and I thought I just gotta 
> loose 30 lbs..  When we got back to the Ramada and were putting our bikes 
> away all four of us looked exhausted.  Then I looked down and saw the 
> electric motor on the back of their bike.  I almost felt better!
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Jon Craig]

"WTB" usually means "Want To Buy."  I don't necessarily want to buy one, I 
just want the info on what has worked for people, for future reference.  
Budget is totally depleted for now (2x Sams is a lot of money!)

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 9:36:01 AM UTC-4, Howard Hatten wrote:
>
> Jon
> Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your 
> rack needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they 
> know just what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in 
> no time. 
> Safe riding
>
> Howard
> Livonia Mi
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Brooks Cambium C-15 Carved Black

[Garth]

Saddle has been sold.  Thanks all !

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[RBW] New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Howard Hatten]

Jon
Congratulations on your new bikes. SAMs are really nice bikes. For your rack 
needs just post a WTB to the list. This group is very friendly & they know just 
what will work for your bike. I'm sure you'll find something in no time. 
Safe riding

Howard
Livonia Mi

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[RBW] New Sam-haver with rack questions!

[Jon Craig]

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P1QC4YV-EI0/V2PwuyaVQDI/Be0/EWKwiZ3lkfcetJfc1H1fLx5_lZc_jGcUwCLcB/s1600/sam-20160617.jpg>

So, last Saturday I finally bought a Sam (55, blue, noodle)!  (BTW A1 
Cyclery in Indianapolis rocks!)  (And truth be told, I'm now a 2-Sam 
household as on Wednesday we went back and my wife got one too - 51, 
orange, noodle. :D )

Anyway - I had an old Trek rear rack so I black-nailpolished the Trek logos 
and put it on - it fits great!   

A front rack I do not have, and I'm wondering what ones fit well on Sam 
without a lot of bodging.  NIttos, yeah, they're gorgeous, but they're also 
bordering on blasphemously expensive so I'm looking for lower cost options.

Since someone will demand it, I've attached a pic of my Sam sitting in my 
office as I type this.

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[RBW] Re: How do you glue wire (from a light) to a rack?

[Brian Campbell]

I use the "shoe goop" method as explained by Anton of Velo Lumino (a.k.a 
somerville bikes). I forgo the tubes and just glue the wire to the bike. I 
hold the wire flat with blue painters tape and then glue the wire (not the 
tape!) let the glue cure and remove the tape. It keeps  wires flat against 
the frame or inside of a fender and makes it less like to get snagged on 
something. The nice thing about the shoe goop is that it is easily peeled 
off in necessary and it has no ill effect of the paint.
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Scott Henry]

I will also toss out the option of Handsome Cycles MudButler Fenders
http://handsomecycles.com/products/silver-fenders
Black or silver, priced compairable to Velo Orange too.   Ive used them and
they are long and easy to mount.

I've got a bike in the stand right now that needs some fenders, the current
42mm tires aren't making fender mounting too easy.
Scott

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 4:49 PM, Lungimsam  wrote:

> I dont think they make hammered fenders either.
>
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[RBW] Re: worn out Brooks and Schwalbe - free for shipping

[Conway Bennett]

I'll put those saddles to use if they are available.  Thanks in advance.

Fair winds,

Captain conway

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Ron Mc]

Late to the party, but this article is still the best info in once place 
 http://oldglorymtb.com/round-up-alternative-or-alt-mountain-bike-handlebars/ 
 

Big Map bar fan here.  There are 3 bars that were derived from the Jones H 
bar, Jitensha Touring (Nitto 2522), Ahearne Map bar, and On-One Mary bars, 
listed from narrowest to widest.  The nice thing about using these bars is 
you can use them with a dirt drop or technomic stem to easily adjust 
height.  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Allingham II, Thomas J. (Retired Partner)]

I didn't see anything either. Can someone post them?

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 17, 2016, at 6:25 AM, Michael Hechmer 
> wrote:

Email. Pictures?  Not in my mailbox.  I'd love to see them.

Michael

On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 10:14:38 PM UTC-4, Kieran J wrote:
I'm also seriously considering it when "Deposit Day" rolls around. The recent 
Size L pics Grant sent around look awesome!!
We *need* this bike to tow our 75lb Lab down to the lake for picnics ..

KJ


On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 7:08:01 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
A recent posting on the Tandem at Hobbes List described an encounter with GP 
and two Rivendell prototype tandems.  Fabulous.  There are still too many 
tamdemistas riding on 28mm tires and mesmerized by lighter means faster.   We 
ride a number of tandem rallies each summer and increasingly see that they are 
filled with more mature riders. open to a more comfortable ride, so I think 
there is an opportunity to expand the Riv philosophy to them.  Now the market 
is dominated by Santana and Co-Motion both of whom seem inclined to push the 
latest invention over common sense.  There are good custom builders who make 
very ridable bikes, like Bilenky, and no shortage of custom builders selling 
$20,000 CF, magnesium, and bamboo bikes with electronic shifting.  That leaves 
a big window for a practical, fun tandem.

As an aside, during the recent Canadian Tandem Rally, on a blistering hot day, 
we found ourselves struggling to stay up with a couple, who appeared to be 
about 10 years older than us.  They were riding a recumbent, which are 
notoriously slow going up hill and  I kept thinking I would overtake them on 
the next short hill.  It never happened, and I thought I just gotta loose 30 
lbs..  When we got back to the Ramada and were putting our bikes away all four 
of us looked exhausted.  Then I looked down and saw the electric motor on the 
back of their bike.  I almost felt better!

Michael

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The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher 
& Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on behalf of 
Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or probonolaw.com domain 
names is in his/her personal capacity and not on behalf of Skadden or its 
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Tandem

[Michael Hechmer]

Email. Pictures?  Not in my mailbox.  I'd love to see them.

Michael

On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 10:14:38 PM UTC-4, Kieran J wrote:
>
> I'm also seriously considering it when "Deposit Day" rolls around. The 
> recent Size L pics Grant sent around look awesome!!
> We *need* this bike to tow our 75lb Lab down to the lake for picnics ..
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Thursday, June 16, 2016 at 7:08:01 PM UTC-4, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>>
>> A recent posting on the Tandem at Hobbes List described an encounter with 
>> GP and two Rivendell prototype tandems.  Fabulous.  There are still too 
>> many tamdemistas riding on 28mm tires and mesmerized by lighter means 
>> faster.   We ride a number of tandem rallies each summer and increasingly 
>> see that they are filled with more mature riders. open to a more 
>> comfortable ride, so I think there is an opportunity to expand the Riv 
>> philosophy to them.  Now the market is dominated by Santana and Co-Motion 
>> both of whom seem inclined to push the latest invention over common sense. 
>>  There are good custom builders who make very ridable bikes, like Bilenky, 
>> and no shortage of custom builders selling $20,000 CF, magnesium, and 
>> bamboo bikes with electronic shifting.  That leaves a big window for a 
>> practical, fun tandem.
>>
>> As an aside, during the recent Canadian Tandem Rally, on a blistering hot 
>> day, we found ourselves struggling to stay up with a couple, who appeared 
>> to be about 10 years older than us.  They were riding a recumbent, which 
>> are notoriously slow going up hill and  I kept thinking I would overtake 
>> them on the next short hill.  It never happened, and I thought I just gotta 
>> loose 30 lbs..  When we got back to the Ramada and were putting our bikes 
>> away all four of us looked exhausted.  Then I looked down and saw the 
>> electric motor on the back of their bike.  I almost felt better!
>>
>> Michael
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Suggestions for MTB Build?

[Joe Bernard]

Yes, technically Robert has those bars backwards. The standard position has the 
straight part of the bar with levers closest to you - mimicking an mtb bar - 
then the curved sections are forward of the stem for stretching out on longer 
rides. 

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[RBW] Re: worn out Brooks and Schwalbe - free for shipping

[Robert Rutter]

I'll take the tires. (PM sent)

On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 3:45:09 AM UTC-5, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> I was going through the closet this morning and found the following:
>
> Honey B17
> Black B17N
> 2 Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires 700c 35mm 
>
> The leather on the saddles is pretty shot but the frames are fine.
> The tires got too many flats for me - 3 strikes and they're out is my 
> policy. Plenty of life left if someone wants to try them out
> I'm guessing shipping would be about $10/item.
> I'll take pictures if anyone is interested. 
> Can't stand throwing stuff out but I'm not going to get any more use out 
> of these.
>
> Jay 
>
>

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[RBW] worn out Brooks and Schwalbe - free for shipping

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I was going through the closet this morning and found the following:

Honey B17
Black B17N
2 Schwalbe Marathon Supreme tires 700c 35mm 

The leather on the saddles is pretty shot but the frames are fine.
The tires got too many flats for me - 3 strikes and they're out is my 
policy. Plenty of life left if someone wants to try them out
I'm guessing shipping would be about $10/item.
I'll take pictures if anyone is interested. 
Can't stand throwing stuff out but I'm not going to get any more use out of 
these.

Jay 

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[RBW] Has anyone replaced the bearings on a Phil Wood cassette hub?

[Tom Harrop]

Hi all,

This could be a silly question, but it's the internet so I'll ask anyway.

I'm planning to change the bearings in my Phil Wood "touring" cassette hub. 
I can't see instructions for replacing the bearings in that model on their 
website. There is a PDF for their FSA hubs, which are different to the 
cassette hubs.

There is another PDF explaining servicing the ratchet mechanism, but it 
doesn't say anything about bearing replacement: 
http://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/cassette_hub_instructions_022015.pdf

My questions:

   1. how do I get the bearings out of the hub shell and freehub?
   2. (the silly one) I would expect the hub to contain two bearings, but 
   in that PDF, it looks like there are three: one on the drive side of the 
   hub shell (labelled D in the PDF linked above), one in the freehub body 
   (labelled M), and one on the left side of the hub shell (not in the 
   diagram, but I know it's there because I can see it). Are there really 
   three bearings? Should I replace them all?

If anyone wants context, the hub is about 3 years old and seems to be 
making noises. I am chasing a squeak that happens once every time the rear 
wheel goes round, but only when I'm on the bike with my weight on the 
saddle. I checked for loose spokes and they're all fine. The tyre isn't 
rubbing, so hub bearing is my next guess!

Thanks for reading,

Tom

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