date:20160825

Thanks, all, for the replies.

I think part of the issue was the Dura Ace 7900 down tube shifters are
indexed and that road indexing did not match the mountain rear derailleur.
If there as an indexing failure, I couldn't fall back to friction.  I read
through this article from that discussed a lot of these issues.  It is from
last November, so not too far out of date.
http://www.cyclingabout.com/wider-gear-range-road-shifters-gears-for-easier-
hill-climbing/

That article linked to this resource:
http://www.cyclingabout.com/gear-ratios-how-to-select-touring-bike-gearing/

I could try to have Brian get something working, but it might end up being
a hack that didn't work and may require more than one attempt.  I'm not
sure it is worth it at this point when there is a known good recommended
solution that has been in successful long term use.

It's not quite the dream I originally had, but I emailed Brian to go ahead
with the 3x9 and bar ends.  It will give me a gear range of about 19 - 122
inches.  If it proves too problematic for me to adjust to, I can always
change it later.  Or, if it turns out I really can't stand it not living up
to my expectations, it will be a standard Riv setup for easier sale.  I
can't really imagine that happening, though.  It might turn out to fit well
with my retro-tech setup, 9-speed with radar tail light and bike computer.
 :)

Thanks again.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 9:21 PM, René Sterental  wrote:

> The Shimano changes only apply to brifters or MTB shifters where in 10
> speeds you cannot mix. Not to barend shifters or downtube shifters. The
> front is still friction and the rear is indexed correctly for both 9 or 10
> speeds. And the derailleurs are irrelevant.
>
> René
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016, René Sterental  wrote:
>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I haven't tied den thie whole thread, but I have that exact setup in my
>> Atlantis and it works perfectly. Shimano 10 speed downtube shifters, front
>> road crankset, now René Herse, triple chainrings, had Shimano XT rear
>> derailleur but switched to Sun XCD front and rear derailleurs for the all
>> silver look, shifts flawlessly. Went with rear 10 speed cogset of 11-34 for
>> the slightly tighter ratios but had the 11-36 first.
>>
>> It does work.
>>
>> René
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Scott McLain 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Tim,
>>> Steve is correct.  This winter I talked a friend of mine into going on a
>>> week long self supported tour.  He ran out and bought an LHT frame and then
>>> started buying parts for it.  He ended up with a 10 speed mess.  I run a
>>> 9-speed mountain cassette, rear der, and road bar end shifter.  He was
>>> trying to do the same, but with 10-speed.  He came to me when it didn't
>>> work and I was stumped.  He just figured he would be going friction
>>> shifting from then on.  I dug in and researched the problem.  Shimano
>>> changed the ratio of cable pull to deraileur movement on their 10-speed
>>> mountain but left their road alone.  So the way to look at it is Shimano
>>> 8,9,&10 speed road shifters will work with 8 and 9 speed mountain
>>> deraileurs and 8, 9, and 10 road or mountain cassettes.  My buddy took an
>>> 8-speed derailleur off his old mountain bike and put it on his 10-speed
>>> system and it worked great.  I am planning on sticking with 9-speed.  It
>>> all works and you can still buy all the pieces new.
>>>
>>> I have 8-speed silver friction on my AHH.  I like it.  It kind of goes
>>> with the AHH attitude.
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:

 I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
 first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
 sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
 purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
 was sort of rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
 /timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423

 Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
 using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
 Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
 Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
 definitely not rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
 /timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428

 It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
 real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
 Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
 but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
 the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
 abilities further, expand the bike to fit new

[RBW] FS: Big Guy Shirts

2016-08-25 Thread Zack

Patagonia Chambray XXL Bluffside, Bluish Grey, worn once and washed, *25 
Shipped.*

Rivendell Cowboy Flannel, Blue, worn once,* 75 shipped. (this 
one http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/at35.htm) *

Both are great shirts, just too big for me!

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-08-25 Thread Joe Bernard

I don't think that's right, René. If a 10-speed brifter won't index a Dyna-Sis 
derailer, other 10-speed road shifters shouldn't, either.

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[RBW] Anyone from the Bay area planning a trip to Israel and want to do a good deed for a fellow list member?

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html

This is the perfect bike for me.
I would obviously cover all costs and buy you a very large beer.

Jay in TLV

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

Anyone from the Bay area planning a trip to Israel and willing to do a good 
deed for a fellow list member?
This is the perfect bike for me.
I would obviously cover all costs and buy you a very large beer.

Jay

On Friday, August 26, 2016 at 1:36:26 AM UTC+3, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> A! Well, there ya go! I'm 200, and absolutely love the flex and power 
> and my 66cm QB planes for me wondrously (I noticed the absence of planing 
> today switching back to my Hunqapillar after 3+ weeks of QB only).
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 4:14:57 PM UTC-6, Metin Uz wrote:
>>
>> OK, it's not the only reason. I think the Quickbeam is a little overbuilt 
>> for me at 136 lbs. While the ride is very comfortable, it doesn't beg to be 
>> pedaled harder. I notice it when I commute on my Landshark, which always 
>> feels like there is tailwind. I swapped the wheels, still the same.
>>
>

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[RBW] Whidbey S24O Ride Report

2016-08-25 Thread Brian Hanson

This with pics at http://www.stonehog.com/:

Not much action on the camping front this year, so I grabbed a chance to do
a quick overnight (S24O )
from my place in Freeland, WA up to Fort Ebey.  It's about 30 miles one
way, and a great chance to try:

   1. Hunqapillar on singletrack
   2. New road exploring
   3. Hammock camping

This also echoes the distance of a Lake Crescent trail
 I want to do
later this year.  That gig is mostly singletrack, but I would use the same
equipment.

I got underway around 4:45pm on Monday.  I figured it would take 2-3 hours,
so I would likely have light to set up camp.  John and I had explored Fort
Ebey's mtb trails  a few
days earlier, so I knew where the hike/bike campsites were.

I packed light. There was a burn ban, so I didn't bother bringing a stove.
Just 2 water bottles, a toaster pastry for breakfast, and a can of salmon
for dinner. Easy. I wore the clothes on my back and brought along a pair of
wool long underwear for sleeping. No rain in the forecast. Other than that,
just my hammock, fly, sleeping bag and roll. Oh yeah - I strapped some
sandals on, in case the feet got sore, but that was just unused extra
weight. I think the whole thing weighed in under 10 pounds (not that it
matters).

The way up was stunning and uneventful. Heading north, I passed South
Whidbey State Park, and Greenbank Farm. The stretch from Greenbank up to
Coupville had some great hills and views, and the Navy Growlers were out
practicing on the outlying field near Admirals Cove.  The long stretch
across Keystone to Fort Casey yielded a few seals and many sea birds, but I
saw not much traffic on a Monday night.

I searched through Fort Casey for a back route, and thought I had it
following a gravel trail by the lighthouse, but it ended in a private road.
I left it to chance, and wasted a few minutes, but it was worth the views.
Hill road down to Ebey Beach is amazing - no shoulder, but equally no
cars.  After a short hop up to the bluff, and across an amazing open
farming area, it was a quick ride to the new pavement of Madrona Way past
the mussel farms in Penn Cove.

At this point, I was starting to worry about sunlight - it had taken me
about 2 1/2 hrs to get this far. I hurried on into Fort Ebey State Park,
and set up the hammock. There was one other person in the hike/bike spot -
a Pacific Northwest Trail
 through hiker.
After a dinner of canned salmon on the bluff overlooking the Straight of
Juan de Fuca, and a great sunset, it was off to bed.

The next morning was sunny, so I geared up and chatted with the hiker to
learn about his journey
. He was a 65 years
old Granite Falls, WA resident, and 7 weeks into the trail that started in
Glacier National Park. After 8 bears (one grizzly at about 10 yds), a pack
of wolves, and countless coyotes, he was just heading to the ferry to Port
Townsend to have a lunch reunion with his wife before finishing the last
150 miles to Cape Alava.
[image: stonehog-17.jpg]
Ready
for the trip home


After a nourishing breakfast at the same scenic overlook on the bluff and a
water bottle refill, I was off to ride the Kettles trail on the loaded Hunq.
[image: stonehog-18.jpg]MTB Riv Style



Needless to say, the Hunq made short work of the trail, and I found myself
heading back south and past the barley fields to Ebey Beach.

[image: stonehog-24.jpg]


I stopped at the old "Ferry Building" on the bluff to explore and take some
pics, then it was back down to Keystone, Greenbank, and finally back to
Freeland for some rest and a meal.

Route out and back are here:

http://cyclemeter.com/51cfa6724f84c700/Cycle-20160822-1639

http://cyclemeter.com/51cfa6724f84c700/Cycle-20160823-0934

Brian Hanson
Seattle, WA
Bike Blog 
@stonehog
stonehogboɥǝuoʇs

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Re: [RBW] Click, click, click ... aaargh

Thanks guys. I'll put my cassette wheel back on the bike and take a closer 
look ant the Eno wheel off the bike. 
Just for fun, the clicking happens everywhere except on the stand. That's 
Sheldon's differential for loose spokes. Except that they're not. Maybe 
I'll try oiling the crossing points before removing the wheel.

Jay

On Friday, August 26, 2016 at 7:10:07 AM UTC+3, René wrote:
>
> Hi Jay,
>
> I've had that happen twice to me on different wheels. The first time it 
> was the one eyelet ( I think) come loose inside the rim. I think it was an 
> Open Pro rim. The second time, it was a tiny crack in the rim on a spoke 
> hole. It was a Dyad rim with 36 spokes. 
>
> Remove the wheel and rotate it. Verify the bearings as instructed. If not 
> the bearings, remove the tire and rotate and inspect the rim very 
> carefully. 
>
> René 
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Ed Felker  
> wrote:
>
>> We use White hubs on our tandems. That rear clicking you describe is 
>> familiar. It's the sound of a White hub needing service. The bearings are 
>> relatively inexpensive.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Hunqapillar Rides Again!

2016-08-25 Thread Lungimsam

Yeeerer-haaaww!
Ro!

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Re: [RBW] Hunqapillar Rides Again!

Congrats!!!

On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> A! What joy! And what gift to get to celebrate the differences between
> the ent and the mammoth after nearly a month of Quickbeam only riding
> awaiting my new month’s bike budget to repair my Hunqapillar’s hub (which
> rides beautifully!).
>
> Thoughts on the various terrain and related gifts of each bike:
>
> Rough gravely MUP and packed but softer rained on clayish road: they are
> equal to the task and both excel at it in their own way. Where the QB is
> spry, agile, and responsive, the Hunqapiller is solid, smooth, and
> responsive.
>
> Smooth-ish asphalt: Quickbeam wins, but just, and not surprisingly given I
> have Thunderburts on the Hunqa and Barlow’s on the QB. Thoroughbred
> racehorse on the track in it’s element, vs the brumby who runs the track
> nearly as fast all the while eyeing the distant mountains calling on the
> horizon. Grin.
>
> Single track: Brumby’s delight! Fast, smooth, sure-footed, solid,
> swooping, agile, confident on uncertain terrain. yes, the QB can do it, but
> just, and with great care.
>
> One photo for you, with my for the moment naked handlebars. https://www.
> flickr.com/photos/deaconpatrick/28609833453/in/dateposted-public/
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.OurHolyConception.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

The Shimano changes only apply to brifters or MTB shifters where in 10
speeds you cannot mix. Not to barend shifters or downtube shifters. The
front is still friction and the rear is indexed correctly for both 9 or 10
speeds. And the derailleurs are irrelevant.

René
On Thursday, August 25, 2016, René Sterental  wrote:

> Tim,
>
> I haven't tied den thie whole thread, but I have that exact setup in my
> Atlantis and it works perfectly. Shimano 10 speed downtube shifters, front
> road crankset, now René Herse, triple chainrings, had Shimano XT rear
> derailleur but switched to Sun XCD front and rear derailleurs for the all
> silver look, shifts flawlessly. Went with rear 10 speed cogset of 11-34 for
> the slightly tighter ratios but had the 11-36 first.
>
> It does work.
>
> René
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Scott McLain  > wrote:
>
>> Hi Tim,
>> Steve is correct.  This winter I talked a friend of mine into going on a
>> week long self supported tour.  He ran out and bought an LHT frame and then
>> started buying parts for it.  He ended up with a 10 speed mess.  I run a
>> 9-speed mountain cassette, rear der, and road bar end shifter.  He was
>> trying to do the same, but with 10-speed.  He came to me when it didn't
>> work and I was stumped.  He just figured he would be going friction
>> shifting from then on.  I dug in and researched the problem.  Shimano
>> changed the ratio of cable pull to deraileur movement on their 10-speed
>> mountain but left their road alone.  So the way to look at it is Shimano
>> 8,9,&10 speed road shifters will work with 8 and 9 speed mountain
>> deraileurs and 8, 9, and 10 road or mountain cassettes.  My buddy took an
>> 8-speed derailleur off his old mountain bike and put it on his 10-speed
>> system and it worked great.  I am planning on sticking with 9-speed.  It
>> all works and you can still buy all the pieces new.
>>
>> I have 8-speed silver friction on my AHH.  I like it.  It kind of goes
>> with the AHH attitude.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>>
>>> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
>>> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
>>> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
>>> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
>>> was sort of rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
>>> /timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>>>
>>> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
>>> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
>>> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
>>> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
>>> definitely not rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
>>> /timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>>>
>>> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
>>> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
>>> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
>>> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
>>> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
>>> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
>>> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks
>>> without having to change frames.
>>>
>>> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two
>>> mentioned.  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was
>>> more modern with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs
>>> and SRAM setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much,
>>> I like the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It
>>> looks clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I
>>> expect that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But,
>>> using DT shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work
>>> with an 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and
>>> cons of each.
>>>
>>> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some
>>> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>>>
>>> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer
>>> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I
>>> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are
>>> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv
>>> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but
>>> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice you have.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>> --
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Tim,

I haven't tied den thie whole thread, but I have that exact setup in my
Atlantis and it works perfectly. Shimano 10 speed downtube shifters, front
road crankset, now René Herse, triple chainrings, had Shimano XT rear
derailleur but switched to Sun XCD front and rear derailleurs for the all
silver look, shifts flawlessly. Went with rear 10 speed cogset of 11-34 for
the slightly tighter ratios but had the 11-36 first.

It does work.

René

On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Scott McLain  wrote:

> Hi Tim,
> Steve is correct.  This winter I talked a friend of mine into going on a
> week long self supported tour.  He ran out and bought an LHT frame and then
> started buying parts for it.  He ended up with a 10 speed mess.  I run a
> 9-speed mountain cassette, rear der, and road bar end shifter.  He was
> trying to do the same, but with 10-speed.  He came to me when it didn't
> work and I was stumped.  He just figured he would be going friction
> shifting from then on.  I dug in and researched the problem.  Shimano
> changed the ratio of cable pull to deraileur movement on their 10-speed
> mountain but left their road alone.  So the way to look at it is Shimano
> 8,9,&10 speed road shifters will work with 8 and 9 speed mountain
> deraileurs and 8, 9, and 10 road or mountain cassettes.  My buddy took an
> 8-speed derailleur off his old mountain bike and put it on his 10-speed
> system and it worked great.  I am planning on sticking with 9-speed.  It
> all works and you can still buy all the pieces new.
>
> I have 8-speed silver friction on my AHH.  I like it.  It kind of goes
> with the AHH attitude.
>
> Scott
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I
>> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and
>> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and
>> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That
>> was sort of rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
>> /timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>>
>> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort
>> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left
>> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in
>> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp,
>> definitely not rivish.  https://www.flickr.com/photos
>> /timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>>
>> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the
>> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer
>> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo,
>> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at
>> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of
>> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my
>> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks
>> without having to change frames.
>>
>> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two
>> mentioned.  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was
>> more modern with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs
>> and SRAM setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much,
>> I like the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It
>> looks clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I
>> expect that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But,
>> using DT shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work
>> with an 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and
>> cons of each.
>>
>> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some
>> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>>
>> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer
>> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I
>> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are
>> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv
>> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but
>> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>>
>> Thanks for any advice you have.
>>
>> Tim
>>
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Re: [RBW] Click, click, click ... aaargh

Hi Jay,

I've had that happen twice to me on different wheels. The first time it was
the one eyelet ( I think) come loose inside the rim. I think it was an Open
Pro rim. The second time, it was a tiny crack in the rim on a spoke hole.
It was a Dyad rim with 36 spokes.

Remove the wheel and rotate it. Verify the bearings as instructed. If not
the bearings, remove the tire and rotate and inspect the rim very
carefully.

René

On Thursday, August 25, 2016, Ed Felker  wrote:

> We use White hubs on our tandems. That rear clicking you describe is
> familiar. It's the sound of a White hub needing service. The bearings are
> relatively inexpensive.
>
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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

2016-08-25 Thread Scott McLain

Hi Tim,
Steve is correct.  This winter I talked a friend of mine into going on a 
week long self supported tour.  He ran out and bought an LHT frame and then 
started buying parts for it.  He ended up with a 10 speed mess.  I run a 
9-speed mountain cassette, rear der, and road bar end shifter.  He was 
trying to do the same, but with 10-speed.  He came to me when it didn't 
work and I was stumped.  He just figured he would be going friction 
shifting from then on.  I dug in and researched the problem.  Shimano 
changed the ratio of cable pull to deraileur movement on their 10-speed 
mountain but left their road alone.  So the way to look at it is Shimano 
8,9,&10 speed road shifters will work with 8 and 9 speed mountain 
deraileurs and 8, 9, and 10 road or mountain cassettes.  My buddy took an 
8-speed derailleur off his old mountain bike and put it on his 10-speed 
system and it worked great.  I am planning on sticking with 9-speed.  It 
all works and you can still buy all the pieces new.  

I have 8-speed silver friction on my AHH.  I like it.  It kind of goes with 
the AHH attitude.

Scott


On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 8:38:33 PM UTC-6, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I 
> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and 
> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and 
> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That 
> was sort of rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>
> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort 
> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left 
> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in 
> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp, 
> definitely not rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>
> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the 
> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer 
> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo, 
> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at 
> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of 
> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my 
> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks 
> without having to change frames.
>
> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two mentioned. 
>  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was more modern 
> with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs and SRAM 
> setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much, I like 
> the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It looks 
> clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I expect 
> that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But, using DT 
> shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work with an 
> 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and cons of 
> each.
>
> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some 
> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer 
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I 
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are 
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv 
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but 
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

2016-08-25 Thread Ed Felker

We use White hubs on our tandems. That rear clicking you describe is familiar. 
It's the sound of a White hub needing service. The bearings are relatively 
inexpensive. 

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Not all love turns out good in the end. Look at Romeo & Juliet. Or
Oedipus & his mom. But that's not the case with BES.

On 08/25/2016 10:06 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

Yeah, but Apollonia ends up blowing up, and Michael goes bad … real bad.

--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
www.CampyOnly.com
Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
@Campyonlyguy

On Aug 25, 2016, at 7:03 PM, Steve Palincsar > wrote:

There isn't a thing in the world wrong with 9 speed. You can even
customize it: most of my bikes run 13-30, and all but one of those
are Sheldon's Century Special 12-27s turned into 13-30s by removing
the 12, replacing the 13 with a 1st position 13 and adding a flat 30
behind the 27. I use them with 24 or 26 / 36 / 46 or 48, giving me a
gear range of ~97" high down to ~22" low, with a 32" low on the
middle ring. That might not suit your gearing needs & preferences,
but it sure works for me.

As for shifters, I love bar ends. My first exposure to them, back in
1975, was just like the moment in Godfather I when Michael Corleone
first sees Appolonia. Love at first shift, and they will have to pry
my cold dead hands off of them. YMMV.

On 08/25/2016 07:17 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:

Steve,
I heard from Brian, who is doing my build. There is also an issue
with the narrow 10 speed chain falling between the chainrings.
Brian is recommending the 3x9 with bar end shifters and I'm going
with that. I'll ask about that Audax shifter location and see what
he says.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Tim Butterfield
> wrote:

Steve,
That sounds about right. I'm glad there is a fix for it. I'm
thinking of going with the recommended 3x9 option. As for
shifter location, if not down tube, I'm not sure I want bar
ends. I shouldn't have any knee collisions with the Nitto
Noodle, but I'm not sure. This "not quite a brifter" option
looks interesting: http://gevenalle.com/product/audax/

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar
> wrote:

On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the exact wording
used to describe the problem. Part was related to the
Dura Ace 7900 down tube shifter being road and the rear
derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette being mountain.

In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear
derailleur, whose cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed
Shimano road shifters of every kind. Wolf Tooth TanPan will
fix that. Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB rear derailleur,
which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10
speed chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using
that setup).

http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-mtb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_dura_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/

http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati

There might have something else about that combination
with the Sugino XD2 triple crank, maybe related to the
10-speed chain. I forget exactly. There was too much to
take in and process all at once and my sponge
overflowed. :) I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to
see if that might help any.

If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur.
Of course, the fact that I have a couple of them in my parts

box makes that an easy choice.

Be glad you don't have 11 speed. That gets weirder still.

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-08-25 Thread Eric Norris

Yeah, but Apollonia ends up blowing up, and Michael goes bad … real bad. 

--Eric N
campyonly...@me.com
www.CampyOnly.com
Campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
@Campyonlyguy


> On Aug 25, 2016, at 7:03 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> There isn't a thing in the world wrong with 9 speed.  You can even customize 
> it: most of my bikes run 13-30, and all but one of those are Sheldon's 
> Century Special 12-27s turned into 13-30s by removing the 12, replacing the 
> 13 with a 1st position 13 and adding a flat 30 behind the 27.  I use them 
> with 24 or 26 / 36 / 46 or 48, giving me a gear range of ~97" high down to 
> ~22" low, with a 32" low on the middle ring.  That might not suit your 
> gearing needs & preferences, but it sure works for me.  
> As for shifters, I love bar ends.  My first exposure to them, back in 1975, 
> was just like the moment in Godfather I when Michael Corleone first sees 
> Appolonia.  Love at first shift, and they will have to pry my cold dead hands 
> off of them.  YMMV.
> 
> On 08/25/2016 07:17 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>> Steve,
>> I heard from Brian, who is doing my build.  There is also an issue with the 
>> narrow 10 speed chain falling between the chainrings.  Brian is recommending 
>> the 3x9 with bar end shifters and I'm going with that.  I'll ask about that 
>> Audax shifter location and see what he says.
>> 
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Tim Butterfield > > wrote:
>> Steve,
>> That sounds about right.  I'm glad there is a fix for it.  I'm thinking of 
>> going with the recommended 3x9 option.  As for shifter location, if not down 
>> tube, I'm not sure I want bar ends.  I shouldn't have any knee collisions 
>> with the Nitto Noodle, but I'm not sure.  This "not quite a brifter" option 
>> looks interesting:  http://gevenalle.com/product/audax/ 
>> 
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar > > wrote:
>> 
>> On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>> Steve,
>> 
>> Thanks for the reply.  I'm not sure of the exact wording used to describe 
>> the problem.  Part was related to the Dura Ace 7900 down tube shifter being 
>> road and the rear derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette being mountain.
>> 
>> In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear derailleur, whose 
>> cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed Shimano road shifters of every 
>> kind.  Wolf Tooth TanPan will fix that.  Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB rear 
>> derailleur, which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10 speed 
>> chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using that setup).
>> 
>> http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-mtb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html
>>  
>> 
>> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_dura_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/
>>  
>> 
>> http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati 
>> 
>> 
>> There might have something else about that combination with the Sugino XD2 
>> triple crank, maybe related to the 10-speed chain.  I forget exactly.  There 
>> was too much to take in and process all at once and my sponge overflowed. :) 
>>  I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to see if that might help any.
>> 
>> 
>> If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur.  Of course, the 
>> fact that I have a couple of them in my parts box makes that an easy choice.
>> 
>> Be glad you don't have 11 speed.  That gets weirder still.
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

There isn't a thing in the world wrong with 9 speed. You can even
customize it: most of my bikes run 13-30, and all but one of those are
Sheldon's Century Special 12-27s turned into 13-30s by removing the 12,
replacing the 13 with a 1st position 13 and adding a flat 30 behind the
27. I use them with 24 or 26 / 36 / 46 or 48, giving me a gear range of
~97" high down to ~22" low, with a 32" low on the middle ring. That
might not suit your gearing needs & preferences, but it sure works for me.

On 08/25/2016 07:17 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:

Steve,
I heard from Brian, who is doing my build. There is also an issue
with the narrow 10 speed chain falling between the chainrings. Brian
is recommending the 3x9 with bar end shifters and I'm going with
that. I'll ask about that Audax shifter location and see what he says.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Tim Butterfield
> wrote:

Steve,
That sounds about right. I'm glad there is a fix for it. I'm
thinking of going with the recommended 3x9 option. As for shifter
location, if not down tube, I'm not sure I want bar ends. I
shouldn't have any knee collisions with the Nitto Noodle, but I'm
not sure. This "not quite a brifter" option looks interesting:
http://gevenalle.com/product/audax/

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar > wrote:

On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the exact wording
used to describe the problem. Part was related to the Dura
Ace 7900 down tube shifter being road and the rear
derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette being mountain.

In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear
derailleur, whose cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed
Shimano road shifters of every kind. Wolf Tooth TanPan will
fix that. Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB rear derailleur,
which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10 speed
chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using that setup).

http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-mtb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_dura_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/

http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati

There might have something else about that combination
with the Sugino XD2 triple crank, maybe related to the
10-speed chain. I forget exactly. There was too much to
take in and process all at once and my sponge overflowed.
:) I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to see if that
might help any.

If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur.
Of course, the fact that I have a couple of them in my parts

box makes that an easy choice.

Be glad you don't have 11 speed. That gets weirder still.

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Big One on Appaloosa

2016-08-25 Thread Bill M.

I ran them on a Rawland rSogn, but they will next be mounted on a Clem.  I 
took delivery of a green 52 frameset a couple of weeks ago, pictures to 
come one of these days.  

Bill

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 11:26:16 PM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Bill in Stockton, what model of bike are you running them on? 
>
> David, does the Clem have similar clearance to the Appaloosa? 
>
> Ray 
> Vallejo Ca

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

2016-08-25 Thread Joe Bernard

Tim, if my recollection is correct, we (the collective we) kinda started with 
this convo. There may be ways to make your 10-speed downtuber idea work, but 
it's not what Riv is used to, and Roman's suggestion has been proven over many 
years around there. 

My new Appaloosa came with Shimano derailers, 9-speed cassette, Sugino triple, 
and Silver bar-ends on a Noodle. I've run this combo before with Shimano 
bar-ends, too. Both run like buttah..I can almost guarantee you'll be happy 
with it. 

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

2016-08-25 Thread Jim M.

I agree with Bill. Also, it would surprise me very much if you wore out WI 
bearings in that amount of mileage. WI builds pretty stout stuff. Are you 
sure it's the rear? Do you hear it when it's in a workstand and you spin 
the wheel?

jim m
wc ca

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 3:15:20 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> 1.  With the rear wheel off the bike spin the hub axle in your fingers and 
> feel the hub bearings for yourself.  If they feel perfect, they are.  If 
> they feel imperfect, they might still be fine.  
> 2.  Make triple sure its not something with the tire hitting the brake or 
> the chainstay.  I had the little plastic covering sticker of my tire label 
> peel itself off and make a thwack thwack sound.  I've had a thorn or other 
> thing in the tread make a sound as it goes around
> 3.  (and my guess)  It could be something in the rim.  A batch of Mavic 
> Open Pros back in the day had a little plug thing that helped them join the 
> rim, and that thing would rattle around.  Fast enough and it was pressed on 
> the outside.  Some people reported it would only work loose at certain tire 
> pressures.  I know a lot of folks demanded warranty rims, because it was 
> driving them crazy.  I've still got one set that does it.  Since I know 
> what it is, I don't mind it.  Just like the rattle sound from the Winnie 
> the Pooh Manny hung on my basket.  I know what it is, so it doesn't scare 
> me or drive me nuts.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:55:38 PM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>>
>> Requesting the help of you wise list members to stop the clicking from 
>> the rear wheel of my Sam Hillborne.
>>
>> The wheel is an Eno hub expertly laced to an A23 rim by Anthony of 
>> Longleaf. Still round and true after 2 years of commuting 60-100 miles/week.
>>
>> The clicking happens once I hit a certain speed but regardless of whether 
>> I am sitting or standing (rule out the saddle and seatpost), pedaling or 
>> coasting (rule out chain, crank, freewheel).
>>
>> Sheldon says it must be coming from loose spokes. But the each pair of 
>> same side spokes emit the same tone when plucked, and the wheel is 
>> otherwise perfect.
>>
>> I brought it to my LBS who also says the spokes are not to blame, and 
>> wants me to replace the hub bearings.
>>
>> Is this a reasonable guess? The hubs spin beautifully but the clicking is 
>> driving me nuts.
>>
>> What say you wise ones?
>>
>> Jay in TLV, where it is not at all simple to procure the common in the US 
>> sealed bearings specified by WI, so I would like to be fairly sure before 
>> ripping my hubs apart
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57cm Rivendell Romulus complete

2016-08-25 Thread Joe Bernard

These are great bikes. I never should have sold my 55, even though I would 
struggle to clear the toptube now in my old age. Somebody buy this!

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57cm Rivendell Romulus complete

2016-08-25 Thread brianweee

Thanks Bill! It's 76.5cm in the photos.

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:55:33 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Golly that's adorable.  What's your saddle height in the photos?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:42:16 AM UTC-7, brianweee wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the reminder Brian!! 
>>
>> Here are some photos I took this morning:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3MMeOfspiVDbHlvSDZPbi1TNEE=sharing
>>
>> The bike has some beausage as can be seen. It could also be a little 
>> cleaner, but not by much. 
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:55:33 PM UTC-7, brianweee wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all, selling my 57cm Rivendell Romulus for  $900 local (SF Bay area) 
>>> or $1000 shipped.
>>>
>>> Link with more info on the bike: http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus
>>> /romflyer/01.html 
>>>
>>> I will be posting photos tomorrow morning when I can take photos of it. 
>>> I think the headset could be either adjusted or may need a new headset. The 
>>> price reflects that. 
>>>
>>> List of components:
>>>
>>> Nitto noodle 44cm hbar
>>> Maroon cloth tape w/ twine finish
>>> Nitto technomic 110 mm stem
>>> Canecreek brake levers
>>> Shimano/ tecktro mid reach brakes
>>> Riv Silver down tube shifters
>>> Tiagra front der
>>> Dura ace rear der
>>> Silver Sram rival crank w/ sugino 50/36 chain rings
>>> GXP bb
>>> Kmc chain
>>> Shimano 9sd 11-30  cassette
>>> EA90 wheels
>>> Challenge strada Blanca 700x30c tires
>>> Thompson elite seat post
>>> Selle Italia SLR flow saddle
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Steve,
I heard from Brian, who is doing my build.  There is also an issue with the
narrow 10 speed chain falling between the chainrings.  Brian is
recommending the 3x9 with bar end shifters and I'm going with that.  I'll
ask about that Audax shifter location and see what he says.

Thanks.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:59 PM, Tim Butterfield 
wrote:

> Steve,
> That sounds about right.  I'm glad there is a fix for it.  I'm thinking of
> going with the recommended 3x9 option.  As for shifter location, if not
> down tube, I'm not sure I want bar ends.  I shouldn't have any knee
> collisions with the Nitto Noodle, but I'm not sure.  This "not quite a
> brifter" option looks interesting:  http://gevenalle.com/product/audax/
>
> Tim
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>>
>> On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>>> Steve,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the reply.  I'm not sure of the exact wording used to
>>> describe the problem.  Part was related to the Dura Ace 7900 down tube
>>> shifter being road and the rear derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette
>>> being mountain.
>>>
>>
>> In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear derailleur, whose
>> cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed Shimano road shifters of every
>> kind.  Wolf Tooth TanPan will fix that.  Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB rear
>> derailleur, which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10 speed
>> chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using that setup).
>>
>> http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-m
>> tb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html
>> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_dur
>> a_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/
>> http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati
>>
>> There might have something else about that combination with the Sugino
>>> XD2 triple crank, maybe related to the 10-speed chain.  I forget exactly.
>>> There was too much to take in and process all at once and my sponge
>>> overflowed. :)  I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to see if that might
>>> help any.
>>>
>>>
>> If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur.  Of course,
>> the fact that I have a couple of them in my parts box makes that an easy
>> choice.
>>
>> Be glad you don't have 11 speed.  That gets weirder still.
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Steve,
That sounds about right.  I'm glad there is a fix for it.  I'm thinking of
going with the recommended 3x9 option.  As for shifter location, if not
down tube, I'm not sure I want bar ends.  I shouldn't have any knee
collisions with the Nitto Noodle, but I'm not sure.  This "not quite a
brifter" option looks interesting:  http://gevenalle.com/product/audax/

Tim


On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 3:34 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

>
> On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>>
>> Thanks for the reply.  I'm not sure of the exact wording used to describe
>> the problem.  Part was related to the Dura Ace 7900 down tube shifter being
>> road and the rear derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette being mountain.
>>
>
> In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear derailleur, whose
> cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed Shimano road shifters of every
> kind.  Wolf Tooth TanPan will fix that.  Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB rear
> derailleur, which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10 speed
> chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using that setup).
>
> http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-
> mtb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html
> https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_
> dura_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/
> http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati
>
> There might have something else about that combination with the Sugino XD2
>> triple crank, maybe related to the 10-speed chain.  I forget exactly.
>> There was too much to take in and process all at once and my sponge
>> overflowed. :)  I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to see if that might
>> help any.
>>
>>
> If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur.  Of course,
> the fact that I have a couple of them in my parts box makes that an easy
> choice.
>
> Be glad you don't have 11 speed.  That gets weirder still.
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Deacon Patrick

A! Well, there ya go! I'm 200, and absolutely love the flex and power 
and my 66cm QB planes for me wondrously (I noticed the absence of planing 
today switching back to my Hunqapillar after 3+ weeks of QB only).

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 4:14:57 PM UTC-6, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> OK, it's not the only reason. I think the Quickbeam is a little overbuilt 
> for me at 136 lbs. While the ride is very comfortable, it doesn't beg to be 
> pedaled harder. I notice it when I commute on my Landshark, which always 
> feels like there is tailwind. I swapped the wheels, still the same.
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

On 08/25/2016 06:19 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure of the exact wording used to
describe the problem. Part was related to the Dura Ace 7900 down tube
shifter being road and the rear derailleur and 10 speed 12-36 cassette
being mountain.

In other words, you have a Dyna Sys MTB 10 speed rear derailleur, whose
cable pull is incompatible with 10 speed Shimano road shifters of every
kind. Wolf Tooth TanPan will fix that. Or, use a 9 speed Shimano MTB
rear derailleur, which has compatible cable pull and will handle that 10
speed chain perfectly well (lots of my friends are using that setup).

http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/what-shimano-rear-mtb-derailleur-use-road-10-speed-shifters-39865.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/2f7o7l/will_dura_ace_7900_bar_end_shifters_be_compatible/
http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/roadmtb-10sp-shimano-incompati

There might have something else about that combination with the Sugino
XD2 triple crank, maybe related to the 10-speed chain. I forget
exactly. There was too much to take in and process all at once and my
sponge overflowed. :) I'll pass the Tanpan idea on to Roman to see if
that might help any.

If it were me, I'd go with the 8 or 9 speed MTB derailleur. Of course,
the fact that I have a couple of them in my parts box makes that an easy
choice.

Be glad you don't have 11 speed. That gets weirder still.

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

2016-08-25 Thread Bill Lindsay

1.  With the rear wheel off the bike spin the hub axle in your fingers and 
feel the hub bearings for yourself.  If they feel perfect, they are.  If 
they feel imperfect, they might still be fine.  
2.  Make triple sure its not something with the tire hitting the brake or 
the chainstay.  I had the little plastic covering sticker of my tire label 
peel itself off and make a thwack thwack sound.  I've had a thorn or other 
thing in the tread make a sound as it goes around
3.  (and my guess)  It could be something in the rim.  A batch of Mavic 
Open Pros back in the day had a little plug thing that helped them join the 
rim, and that thing would rattle around.  Fast enough and it was pressed on 
the outside.  Some people reported it would only work loose at certain tire 
pressures.  I know a lot of folks demanded warranty rims, because it was 
driving them crazy.  I've still got one set that does it.  Since I know 
what it is, I don't mind it.  Just like the rattle sound from the Winnie 
the Pooh Manny hung on my basket.  I know what it is, so it doesn't scare 
me or drive me nuts.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:55:38 PM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
>
> Requesting the help of you wise list members to stop the clicking from the 
> rear wheel of my Sam Hillborne.
>
> The wheel is an Eno hub expertly laced to an A23 rim by Anthony of 
> Longleaf. Still round and true after 2 years of commuting 60-100 miles/week.
>
> The clicking happens once I hit a certain speed but regardless of whether 
> I am sitting or standing (rule out the saddle and seatpost), pedaling or 
> coasting (rule out chain, crank, freewheel).
>
> Sheldon says it must be coming from loose spokes. But the each pair of 
> same side spokes emit the same tone when plucked, and the wheel is 
> otherwise perfect.
>
> I brought it to my LBS who also says the spokes are not to blame, and 
> wants me to replace the hub bearings.
>
> Is this a reasonable guess? The hubs spin beautifully but the clicking is 
> driving me nuts.
>
> What say you wise ones?
>
> Jay in TLV, where it is not at all simple to procure the common in the US 
> sealed bearings specified by WI, so I would like to be fairly sure before 
> ripping my hubs apart
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Metin Uz

> What is the saddle height on your setup?

72cm

> If your only reason for selling a Quickbeam is "Just time to try 
something else," you'll regret it. 

OK, it's not the only reason. I think the Quickbeam is a little overbuilt 
for me at 136 lbs. While the ride is very comfortable, it doesn't beg to be 
pedaled harder. I notice it when I commute on my Landshark, which always 
feels like there is tailwind. I swapped the wheels, still the same.

--Metin

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:06:06 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> If your only reason for selling a Quickbeam is "Just time to try something 
> else," you'll regret it. But you'll also make someone else's rides 
> fantastic! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:24:03 PM UTC-6, Metin Uz wrote:
>>
>> This was Mojo's old bike he used on the Big Fix Ride, so you can say it 
>> has good mojo :-)  I probably put about 8,000 miles on it commuting the 
>> last two years. Just time to try something else, I hope I won't regret 
>> selling it...
>>
>> --Metin
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 1:17:21 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>>
>>> I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway. 
>>> The fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam 
>>> would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?
>>>
>>> ...right?
>>>
>>> /Jeremy
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html
>
> I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it 
> doesn't sell in a week or two.
>
> --Metin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

2016-08-25 Thread Lungimsam

Try some lube between the spokes where they cross each other? Sometimes 
they touch and click, I have read.
Valve stem nut loose?
New tires? Mold whisker hitting brake calipers? 

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[RBW] Re: Click, click, click ... aaargh

2016-08-25 Thread Lungimsam

 http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilever brake question...

2016-08-25 Thread Ron Mc

All I can tell you is my Paul touring cantis f/r are the best brakes I've 
ever squeezed.  

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[RBW] Click, click, click ... aaargh

Requesting the help of you wise list members to stop the clicking from the 
rear wheel of my Sam Hillborne.

The wheel is an Eno hub expertly laced to an A23 rim by Anthony of 
Longleaf. Still round and true after 2 years of commuting 60-100 miles/week.

The clicking happens once I hit a certain speed but regardless of whether I 
am sitting or standing (rule out the saddle and seatpost), pedaling or 
coasting (rule out chain, crank, freewheel).

Sheldon says it must be coming from loose spokes. But the each pair of same 
side spokes emit the same tone when plucked, and the wheel is otherwise 
perfect.

I brought it to my LBS who also says the spokes are not to blame, and wants 
me to replace the hub bearings.

Is this a reasonable guess? The hubs spin beautifully but the clicking is 
driving me nuts.

What say you wise ones?

Jay in TLV, where it is not at all simple to procure the common in the US 
sealed bearings specified by WI, so I would like to be fairly sure before 
ripping my hubs apart

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[RBW] Hunqapillar Rides Again!

2016-08-25 Thread Deacon Patrick

A! What joy! And what gift to get to celebrate the differences between the 
ent and the mammoth after nearly a month of Quickbeam only riding awaiting my 
new month’s bike budget to repair my Hunqapillar’s hub (which rides 
beautifully!).

Thoughts on the various terrain and related gifts of each bike:

Rough gravely MUP and packed but softer rained on clayish road: they are equal 
to the task and both excel at it in their own way. Where the QB is spry, agile, 
and responsive, the Hunqapiller is solid, smooth, and responsive.

Smooth-ish asphalt: Quickbeam wins, but just, and not surprisingly given I have 
Thunderburts on the Hunqa and Barlow’s on the QB. Thoroughbred racehorse on the 
track in it’s element, vs the brumby who runs the track nearly as fast all the 
while eyeing the distant mountains calling on the horizon. Grin.

Single track: Brumby’s delight! Fast, smooth, sure-footed, solid, swooping, 
agile, confident on uncertain terrain. yes, the QB can do it, but just, and 
with great care.

One photo for you, with my for the moment naked handlebars. 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/deaconpatrick/28609833453/in/dateposted-public/

With abandon,
Patrick

www.OurHolyConception.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org


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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

Next update...

My AHH build just had another hiccup.  I got a call a bit ago and it
appears they have run into a slight snag.  The 10 speed cassette/rear is
mountain and doesn't quite match up with the road front, triple XD2 crank,
and 7900 down tube shifters.  Evidently, have the 3x10 with down tube
shifters is a non-starter.  So, I need to change it a bit.  The
recommendation is 3x9/12-36 with bar end shifters.  Or, I can rethink and
maybe do a 2x10 brifter setup.  So, I need to re-read my thread and think
back over the recommendations, come up with another plan, and then let them
know how to proceed.

Hmmm.

Tim

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilever brake question...



On 08/25/2016 04:58 PM, René Sterental wrote:
Spring tension? What would that have to do with how well the brakes 
stop the bike? Besides, spring tension is the same between the front 
and rear brakes.


Well, as a general statement I am not sure, but I do know this one thing 
from personal experience: if you want to really mess up a Paul Racer 
centerpull and make it so it is completely useless as a brake, mess up 
the spring tension.  Last time I had my VO Randonneur in to have the 
brake pads changed, a ham-fisted mechanic decided to play with the 
spring tension and literally made the brake useless as a brake.  It's a 
good thing it's only a couple of miles to the bike shop... and an even 
better thing that the head mechanic had the problem fixed in just a 
minute or two.




My plan is this:
- First try lowering the yoke as low as it will go on the Neo-Retros. 
I can do it since the Nitto Campee front rack I have doesn't have the 
strut connecting it to the fork crown. Note the difference if there is 
any.
- Swap the Neo-Retros for the other set of Touring brakes, now that I 
have the low yoke. Note the difference
- Since I also have a set of MiniMotos I bought to see if they fit on 
another bike, I may try them as well, but that would mean a potential 
recabling which I'm not sure I want to do. I've also been advised that 
they may not fit well with the 50mm fenders, so perhaps I'll just see 
how they fit first, before setting them up. It was suggested that if I 
wanted the ultimate braking power, I try the Motolites, although 
they'd require a new set of V-brake levers, which I'm not so hot on.


Based on all my new learnings, I believe the Touring front and rear 
will take care of my "problem".


I'd still want to know why the wide-profile cantilever brakes have 
persisted for so long...



Here's some of what Paul says about the Neo retro:
/Note: These are very powerful brakes and have a tendency to overpower 
thin tubed frames (in any material). For none-too-stout frames and 
forks we recommend our //Touring Canti 
//. Also, 
the arms stick out a lot! For smaller frames, bikes with bags, and 
people with large feet there can be some interference problems, in 
which case the Touring Canti might be more appropriate./


Clearly they are of the opinion that the Neo retro is the more powerful 
of the two, and honestly after all this time you'd think they'd know 
their own products.






René

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:29 PM, Conway Bennett 
> wrote:


I'd read the black mountain cycles article on the topic.  Also I
believe I read on the Paul site that for neo retros 2-3" yoke
height is good enough.  I didn't read thru all the posts but have
you adjusted spring tension yet?

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Deacon Patrick

If your only reason for selling a Quickbeam is "Just time to try something 
else," you'll regret it. But you'll also make someone else's rides 
fantastic! Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 2:24:03 PM UTC-6, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> This was Mojo's old bike he used on the Big Fix Ride, so you can say it 
> has good mojo :-)  I probably put about 8,000 miles on it commuting the 
> last two years. Just time to try something else, I hope I won't regret 
> selling it...
>
> --Metin
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 1:17:21 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>
>> I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway. 
>> The fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam 
>> would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?
>>
>> ...right?
>>
>> /Jeremy
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:

 I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html

 I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it 
 doesn't sell in a week or two.

 --Metin



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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Ryan Fleming

I hope you don't either...that's an awfully nice bike with all those 
upgrades at a terrific price...too bad (or good) that I ride a 56cm 
frame...and have a riv on the way from MN

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 3:24:03 PM UTC-5, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> This was Mojo's old bike he used on the Big Fix Ride, so you can say it 
> has good mojo :-)  I probably put about 8,000 miles on it commuting the 
> last two years. Just time to try something else, I hope I won't regret 
> selling it...
>
> --Metin
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 1:17:21 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>
>> I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway. 
>> The fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam 
>> would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?
>>
>> ...right?
>>
>> /Jeremy
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:

 I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html

 I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it 
 doesn't sell in a week or two.

 --Metin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Cantilever brake question...

Spring tension? What would that have to do with how well the brakes stop
the bike? Besides, spring tension is the same between the front and rear
brakes.

My plan is this:
- First try lowering the yoke as low as it will go on the Neo-Retros. I can
do it since the Nitto Campee front rack I have doesn't have the strut
connecting it to the fork crown. Note the difference if there is any.
- Swap the Neo-Retros for the other set of Touring brakes, now that I have
the low yoke. Note the difference
- Since I also have a set of MiniMotos I bought to see if they fit on
another bike, I may try them as well, but that would mean a potential
recabling which I'm not sure I want to do. I've also been advised that they
may not fit well with the 50mm fenders, so perhaps I'll just see how they
fit first, before setting them up. It was suggested that if I wanted the
ultimate braking power, I try the Motolites, although they'd require a new
set of V-brake levers, which I'm not so hot on.

Based on all my new learnings, I believe the Touring front and rear will
take care of my "problem".

I'd still want to know why the wide-profile cantilever brakes have
persisted for so long...

René

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:29 PM, Conway Bennett <
captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'd read the black mountain cycles article on the topic.  Also I believe I
> read on the Paul site that for neo retros 2-3" yoke height is good enough.
> I didn't read thru all the posts but have you adjusted spring tension yet?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

What is the saddle height on your setup?

On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 1:24 PM, Metin Uz  wrote:

> This was Mojo's old bike he used on the Big Fix Ride, so you can say it
> has good mojo :-)  I probably put about 8,000 miles on it commuting the
> last two years. Just time to try something else, I hope I won't regret
> selling it...
>
> --Metin
>
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 1:17:21 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>>
>> I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway.
>> The fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam
>> would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?
>>
>> ...right?
>>
>> /Jeremy
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:

 I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:

 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html

 I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it
 doesn't sell in a week or two.

 --Metin

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Metin Uz

This was Mojo's old bike he used on the Big Fix Ride, so you can say it has 
good mojo :-)  I probably put about 8,000 miles on it commuting the last 
two years. Just time to try something else, I hope I won't regret selling 
it...

--Metin

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 1:17:21 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Tavan wrote:
>
> I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway. The 
> fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam 
> would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?
>
> ...right?
>
> /Jeremy
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:
>>>
>>> I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:
>>>
>>> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html
>>>
>>> I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it 
>>> doesn't sell in a week or two.
>>>
>>> --Metin
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Jeremy Tavan

I _think_ it's too big for me. That's what I'm telling myself, anyway. The 
fact that my Clem is irritating to carry on the train and the Quickbeam 
would make a great commuter shouldn't affect that, right?

...right?

/Jeremy

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:37:00 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:
>>
>> I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:
>>
>> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html
>>
>> I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it doesn't 
>> sell in a week or two.
>>
>> --Metin
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Toyo Atlantis Shimmy ???

2016-08-25 Thread Ryan Fleming

yes it does and it has quite small diameter tubingIshiwata .022 and 
takes a 27mm diameter seatpost...still have mine and still enjoy it and 
alas I am quite a bit heavier than I was when I bought it in September of 
1993... but I'd prefer not to quantify how much heavier :)

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 11:53:11 AM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> Not Atlantis related, but maybe relevant none the less. I had an XO-1 
> until several months ago. When it was new I rode it around no hands all the 
> time fast forward to a few years ago, I had not ridden it for some time & I 
> am enjoying it. Turned to go down a small  hill, sat back on the seat with 
> my hands off the bars as I'd done thousands of times before and the front 
> end started wobbling violently! I was able to quickly grab the handlebars, 
> but it rattled me a little. 
> The questions go through your head, what was that? Everything with the 
> bike was fine, the only thing that had changed in the equation was ME! When 
> I bought the bike & rode it a lot I weighed 175lbs. When I rode it again!? 
> 240!!
> So adding weight up front might solve the problem, but I think maybe your 
> weight may be effecting the handling? The  XO-1 has very slender seat 
> stays, they probably were not designed for someone my weight, I surmise the 
> frame was flexing more under the increased load! :-(

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57cm Rivendell Romulus complete

2016-08-25 Thread Bill Lindsay

Golly that's adorable.  What's your saddle height in the photos?

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:42:16 AM UTC-7, brianweee wrote:
>
> Thanks for the reminder Brian!! 
>
> Here are some photos I took this morning:
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3MMeOfspiVDbHlvSDZPbi1TNEE=sharing
>
> The bike has some beausage as can be seen. It could also be a little 
> cleaner, but not by much. 
>
>
> On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:55:33 PM UTC-7, brianweee wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, selling my 57cm Rivendell Romulus for  $900 local (SF Bay area) 
>> or $1000 shipped.
>>
>> Link with more info on the bike: http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus
>> /romflyer/01.html 
>>
>> I will be posting photos tomorrow morning when I can take photos of it. I 
>> think the headset could be either adjusted or may need a new headset. The 
>> price reflects that. 
>>
>> List of components:
>>
>> Nitto noodle 44cm hbar
>> Maroon cloth tape w/ twine finish
>> Nitto technomic 110 mm stem
>> Canecreek brake levers
>> Shimano/ tecktro mid reach brakes
>> Riv Silver down tube shifters
>> Tiagra front der
>> Dura ace rear der
>> Silver Sram rival crank w/ sugino 50/36 chain rings
>> GXP bb
>> Kmc chain
>> Shimano 9sd 11-30  cassette
>> EA90 wheels
>> Challenge strada Blanca 700x30c tires
>> Thompson elite seat post
>> Selle Italia SLR flow saddle
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Bill Lindsay

Dangit!  WANTam local.WANT.shouldn't buy..WANT

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 10:58:37 AM UTC-7, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html
>
> I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it doesn't 
> sell in a week or two.
>
> --Metin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake question...

2016-08-25 Thread Conway Bennett

I'd read the black mountain cycles article on the topic.  Also I believe I read 
on the Paul site that for neo retros 2-3" yoke height is good enough.  I didn't 
read thru all the posts but have you adjusted spring tension yet?

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake question...

2016-08-25 Thread ian m

Low profile cantis are generally as a rule stronger brakes (more mechanical 
advantage) than high profile. Not sure why Paul states otherwise. Getting low 
profile brakes set up correctly (lots of squish) was a revelation, they inspire 
a lot more confidence on my MTB 

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Ryan Fleming

Gee...that is a heckuva nice bike at a heck of a nice price

On Thursday, August 25, 2016 at 12:58:37 PM UTC-5, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:
>
> http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html
>
> I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it doesn't 
> sell in a week or two.
>
> --Metin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis vs Appaloosa

2016-08-25 Thread Leslie

I've often thought that if I did come across an affordable 56 Atlantis, I'd 
like to 650b it;  interesting that they're going ahead and doing it 
themselves.   (Also thought about a 650b Hunq, and they made that happen 
too.)

Kellie,
Understand about wanting a bike, and having to wait to afford it.  My Ram 
(my first Riv), I put it on layaway; then when I got my Bomba, again, I put 
a down-payment, took awhile before I had it paid off.  

Your use:  I get the Saluki for long road rides, as-is my Ram. You've got 
your road-needs covered.   The Cheviot:  Okay, since it's a mixte, yeah, it 
wouldn't be as easy to put on my bike rack w/o a top-tube converter, 
but...  I think of it as a Mixte-Sam, and a Sam shouldn't be that much 
different than an Atlantis weight-wise.   The Cheviot and the Sam should be 
similar tubing to each other;  the Atlantis' frame is going to be, a 
different mix of tubing maybe, but the Atlantis will have a heavier fork:  
I don't know that you'll see much of a weight-difference/savings. 

Aside from the loading-up of the bike on a rack, how do you like the 
Cheviot?  I think, it should be fine for a lot/most of the uses that you've 
outlined.   Actually, I don't think any Riv would be particularly bad at 
any of your mentioned uses, (save perhaps the Roadeo:  it could handle a 
lot of it but might be underbiking a bit);  unless you're thinking 
'serious' loading, I don't know that the Atlantis would bring more to the 
table for your needs than the Appaloosa. I think the Appaloosa is an 
awesome bike (don't have one, would like one). But, so is the Atlantis  
I can understand wanting one; it has too much overlap w/ my Bomba, I 
couldn't justify getting an Atlantis, but, I still would think on one if I 
came across one for the right price   

Keep saving:  eventually you'll get enough saved up, that you can sell the 
Cheviot and buy your Atlantis.  Win.Or, sell the Cheviot and buy the 
Appaloosa, still a win, just sooner.   So, whichever you get, will be 
fine.  

Good luck...

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 8:22:39 PM UTC-4, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I knew (and remembered) the Hunqapillar was re-designed but I don't think 
> I knew about the Atlantis.  That will be interesting!  
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 3:38:22 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Since John brought up Toe Clip Overlap.  A lot of list members know this, 
>> but maybe they "know" and have forgotten.  Some people for sure don't know 
>> this.  The Atlantis and the Hunqapillar have been redesigned for 650B, and 
>> the sizing has changed too.  There are no new geo charts up yet.  I was 
>> curious about a 650B Atlantis to replace my 700C Atlantis.  I reached out 
>> to Brian at Riv and we agreed that my 58cm 700c Atlantis is the right size, 
>> and that the new 56cm 650B Atlantis would be the right size for me.  That 
>> new 650B Atlantis has a nice large front center, and will have no TCO.  My 
>> 700c Atlantis does have TCO.  So, those of you saving up for a new Atlantis 
>> and keeping an eye out for a used one, be advised that it's likely two 
>> different bikes.  Same spirit, same DNA, but different creatures.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 1:29:16 PM UTC-7, John wrote:
>>>
>>> Regarding toe-clip overlap on trail rides, choosing a Hunqapillar won't 
>>> solve that problem, but choosing platform pedals will solve it for either 
>>> an Atlantis or Hunq.
>>>
>>> John 
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 22, 2016 at 9:57:50 AM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:

 Just wondering what you guys think?  I really want an Atlantis but a 
 new one is out of my budget.  Intended use is mostly off road like fire 
 trails, cross country riding; NOT crazy downhill, rock gardens etc.  Since 
 the Appaloosa is supposed to be somewhere between the Hillborne and the 
 Hunq, I'm wondering if an Appaloosa would be an appropriate  substitute?

  Big price difference between the two. I'm sure there is a tubing 
 difference. But the Appaloosa has the Hunq fork so that's plenty strong. 
 Maybe better cosmetics, detailed lugging on the Atlantis.  So you say why 
 not get a Hunq? But if I'm going to pop for a new Hunq I might as will buy 
 a new Atlantis. What do you think?

>>>

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Re: [RBW] 650b conversion question

2016-08-25 Thread Eric Norris

Gavin:

Your bike must be a little different. I’m running Paris-Motos on mine, and 
while there’s gobs of clearance for the front tire, the rear just barely fits 
with a few mms of space. I tried a Hetre on the rear, and it was too tight. 

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

> On Aug 25, 2016, at 6:12 AM, Tim Gavin  wrote:
> 
> Exactly.  I converted my '97 Road Standard as well.  
> 
> Since those bikes were designed for 622 x 28 under short-reach calipers (like 
> the RB-1), long-reach calipers have the correct reach for 650b (584) wheels.  
> I used R559/Silver calipers for a while, but changed them out for Paul Racer 
> centerpulls for better fender clearance.
> 
> http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/Tim_Gavin/media/Rivendell/IMG_07731_zpsst3nvqm4.jpg.html
>  
> 
> http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/Tim_Gavin/media/Rivendell/IMG_07751_zpsaddhrivd.jpg.html
>  
> 
> 
> My Road Standard could barely clear a 622 x 28 tire (less than 1 mm clearance 
> at the brake bridge).  Now, it fits 584 x 38 tires and 45 mm metal fenders.  
> The chainstays and fork legs are tight enough that a 584 x 42 will rub.
> 
> On Wed, Aug 24, 2016 at 10:42 PM, Eric Norris  > wrote:
> Tektro R559s worked fine on the 650B conversion of my ’95 Road Standard:
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/GVJBjL  
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com 
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
> 
>> On Aug 24, 2016, at 5:12 PM, Toshi Takeuchi > > wrote:
>> 
>> I've used the Tektro R559 for multiple 700c to 650b conversions, so they do 
>> work.  The amount of brake reach that is required for the conversion will 
>> depend upon the placement of the brake bolt in relation to the wheel, which 
>> is not fixed from bike to bike, so looking at the wheels themselves will not 
>> give you an answer.  It will also depend upon the width of the rim: the 
>> wider the rim, the less reach required.  Also you can gain a couple mm by 
>> using MTB V-brake thin pads.  People have also shaved a mm or two by filing 
>> the frame at the center bolt.  You can get additional reach using a Diacompe 
>> 750 centerpull brake, but the stopping power is not as effective as the 
>> Tektros in my experience.
>> 
>> --Also the BB does not drop the same 2 cm.  You use wider tires with a 
>> larger radius, so the BB height will go up from the larger tire.  The 650b x 
>> 42mm gives a similar BB height to a 700c x 25mm. 
>> 
>> Toshi
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, Aug 24, 2016 at 4:56 PM, René Sterental > > wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> Perusing the RBW website, I came upon the Tektro R559 that come on the Homer 
>> and Cheviot since the Silver brakes stopped being. I'm not sure if they're 
>> the same brake as the Silvers I got with my Homer originally, but there was 
>> a line there stating that they were good for 650b conversions.
>> 
>> I measured my 700c and 650b wheels, and there is a 2cm difference in the 
>> radius to the braking surface of the rims. Does anyone know if there is that 
>> much room to adjust the brake pads on a 700c bike if you put 650b wheels on 
>> it?
>> 
>> I know the BB drops the same 2cm which may create problems, but I'm quite 
>> intrigued by this conversion. I haven't yet called RBW to ask, but I wonder 
>> if any of you experts who have done conversions in the past know if these 
>> brakes would truly allow me to run 650b wheels on one of my 700c bikes.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> René 
>> 
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[RBW] Rivendell Quickbeam 58cm for sale

2016-08-25 Thread Metin Uz

I listed my Quickbeam in SF Bay Area Craigslist:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/5746004218.html

I would like to sell it locally, but will consider shipping if it doesn't 
sell in a week or two.

--Metin

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57cm Rivendell Romulus complete

2016-08-25 Thread brianweee

Thanks for the reminder Brian!! 

Here are some photos I took this morning:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B3MMeOfspiVDbHlvSDZPbi1TNEE=sharing

The bike has some beausage as can be seen. It could also be a little 
cleaner, but not by much. 


On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:55:33 PM UTC-7, brianweee wrote:
>
> Hi all, selling my 57cm Rivendell Romulus for  $900 local (SF Bay area) or 
> $1000 shipped.
>
> Link with more info on the bike: http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/romulus
> /romflyer/01.html 
>
> I will be posting photos tomorrow morning when I can take photos of it. I 
> think the headset could be either adjusted or may need a new headset. The 
> price reflects that. 
>
> List of components:
>
> Nitto noodle 44cm hbar
> Maroon cloth tape w/ twine finish
> Nitto technomic 110 mm stem
> Canecreek brake levers
> Shimano/ tecktro mid reach brakes
> Riv Silver down tube shifters
> Tiagra front der
> Dura ace rear der
> Silver Sram rival crank w/ sugino 50/36 chain rings
> GXP bb
> Kmc chain
> Shimano 9sd 11-30  cassette
> EA90 wheels
> Challenge strada Blanca 700x30c tires
> Thompson elite seat post
> Selle Italia SLR flow saddle
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion question

2016-08-25 Thread Eric Norris

The bike came to me without paint--just raw steel and patina. I scrubbed it 
with Scotchbrite and applied a coating of clear paint to help protect the 
frame. 

I love the look. Reminds me of the "rat rod" aesthetic:



--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Aug 24, 2016, at 9:30 PM, René Sterental  wrote:
> 
> Wow, is that raw metal?
> 
>> On Wednesday, August 24, 2016, Eric Norris  wrote:
>> Tektro R559s worked fine on the 650B conversion of my ’95 Road Standard:
>> 
>> https://flic.kr/p/GVJBjL 
>> 
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyonly...@me.com
>> www.campyonly.com
>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
>> 
>>> On Aug 24, 2016, at 5:12 PM, Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I've used the Tektro R559 for multiple 700c to 650b conversions, so they do 
>>> work.  The amount of brake reach that is required for the conversion will 
>>> depend upon the placement of the brake bolt in relation to the wheel, which 
>>> is not fixed from bike to bike, so looking at the wheels themselves will 
>>> not give you an answer.  It will also depend upon the width of the rim: the 
>>> wider the rim, the less reach required.  Also you can gain a couple mm by 
>>> using MTB V-brake thin pads.  People have also shaved a mm or two by filing 
>>> the frame at the center bolt.  You can get additional reach using a 
>>> Diacompe 750 centerpull brake, but the stopping power is not as effective 
>>> as the Tektros in my experience.
>>> 
>>> --Also the BB does not drop the same 2 cm.  You use wider tires with a 
>>> larger radius, so the BB height will go up from the larger tire.  The 650b 
>>> x 42mm gives a similar BB height to a 700c x 25mm. 
>>> 
>>> Toshi
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Wed, Aug 24, 2016 at 4:56 PM, René Sterental  
 wrote:
 Hi all,
 
 Perusing the RBW website, I came upon the Tektro R559 that come on the 
 Homer and Cheviot since the Silver brakes stopped being. I'm not sure if 
 they're the same brake as the Silvers I got with my Homer originally, but 
 there was a line there stating that they were good for 650b conversions.
 
 I measured my 700c and 650b wheels, and there is a 2cm difference in the 
 radius to the braking surface of the rims. Does anyone know if there is 
 that much room to adjust the brake pads on a 700c bike if you put 650b 
 wheels on it?
 
 I know the BB drops the same 2cm which may create problems, but I'm quite 
 intrigued by this conversion. I haven't yet called RBW to ask, but I 
 wonder if any of you experts who have done conversions in the past know if 
 these brakes would truly allow me to run 650b wheels on one of my 700c 
 bikes.
 
 Thanks!
 
 René 
 
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>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b conversion question