[RBW] Re: Granny ring washers

[Nick Payne]

p.s. I just had a look at an XC Comp crank in my possession, and it doesn't 
need the spacers - the standoff for the granny chainring is built into the 
crank.

On Friday, 8 December 2017 16:14:48 UTC+11, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> I bought a set of the Sugino inner chainring bolts and spacers off fleabay 
> fairly recently. In fact, I just had a look and they're still being sold: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Sugino-bolts-4mm-spacers-set-for-inner-chainring-of-triple-crank-set-s43ca/282759320482
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Zoic Reign knickers (was: Winter" clothing help)

[Patrick Moore]

Shoji: this is exactly the sort of helpful information I was hoping to get.
I'd consider the MUSAs but I really want a zip fly and buttoned waistband
which, alas, the Rivs don't have. If the new model is like the original one
-- I owned both knickers and long pants in the original style -- yes, that
weight would be perfect.

Good to know about the Zoic waist and cuff cinches.

I have moved exactly 2 feet and 14.3 inches closer to actually buying a
pair or 2 of the Zoics.

Many thanks.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 8:47 PM, Shoji Takahashi 
wrote:

> Hi Patrick,
> I have the Zoic, Compass, and Riv MUSA knickers. Note: I wear them with
> regular underwear, wool or cotton, no cycling shorts/pads. I'm not a high
> mileage rider; commuting ~15miles round trip.
>
> 1. The Zoic is slightly heavier weight than Compass, but quite light. It
> feels different: more rubbery than Compass. Zoic is certainly more durable,
> as my Compass knickers are already pilling by the pockets and sides
> (disappointing).
>
> I think Zoic is slightly better wind protection, but only slightly.
>
> Riv MUSA is heaviest weight. I can and do use them to ~40F; MUSA is too
> hot ~55F for me. MUSA feels and is the most durable of the three.
>
> 2. My Zoic knickers have a cinch at the cuff. It's a hidden elastic shock
> cord with a plastic spring-stop toggle-cord lock to set the amount of
> cinch. (Same as Compass.) The bottom hem is nice and stretchy (a feature of
> the material), as compared to Compass which does not have the same "give".
>
> 3. Zoic feels really nice to me when riding. There is a draw-string-like
> feature to pull hold them up w/o belt.
>
> The rear pocket stitching closest to the midline became undone. (I'm
> guessing from abrasion with the saddle.) Those areas will need to-be
> restitched if I want to put anything in my rear pockets. Note: I don't ride
> with anything in my rear pockets.
>
> I've worn the Zoic knickers for several years, and they are in very nice
> condition, other than the rear pocket stitches near where the saddle
> contacts.
>
> The Zoics have cargo pant-like pockets on the mid thighs which add a
> little bulk (pocket flap, velcro, zipper, small plastic key-chain hook).
> Since I don't use those pockets, I would remove them if I were to redesign
> them.
>
> Overall:
> I'm happy with the Zoic and Riv MUSA. They serve different purposes for
> me, which I only recognized after purchasing and wearing them. (Riv MUSA is
> great at campsites, cooler weather, working in the yard.)
>
> I really liked the Compass (fit, style, features, hand), but as I've only
> worn them for a few months (with infrequent washing) and am experiencing
> pilling on the fabric, I'm disappointed. (Price/performance mismatch.)
>
> Good luck!
> Shoji
> Arlington MA
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 2:04:43 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Speaking of winter clothing, I'll repeat this request I posted to the
>> boblist, in case others here have information.
>>
>> I'm looking at the Zoic cycling knickers: https://tinyurl.com/Zoic-Reign
>> -at-BackCountry
>>
>> At this point, I'm interested only in these Zoics, though there are weird
>> (to US eyes) websites from the UK offering moleskin plus 4s at reasonable
>> prices; but let's not go there.
>>
>> Has anyone actually used these? They ring my bells because they seem long
>> enough (19"), have zip fly and belt loops and rear pockets, and are cut
>> loose, and come in roadie approved black.  But I wonder:
>>
>> 1. How heavy is the material? I ruled out Compass because theirs sound
>> too thin.
>>
>> 2. These seem not to have a cinch at the cuff; do I see rightly? I can
>> always add a bit of velcro.
>>
>> 3. Wear: do they wear well in seat and knee?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, going to ride the Hon Solo shortly, God willing, in
>> coldish ABQ, NM
>>
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**
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[RBW] Re: Found Stolen Riv in LA - Help me find the owner!

[Howard Ramsay]

Philip Meyer, contact the local police departments in the surrounding areas 
you bound it. Give them details and location of the bike now. The rightful 
owner will be periodically checking in there to see if miracles really do 
happen, and if dreams actually come true. Peace and Love, sir.  Howard 
Ramsay - Longview, TX

On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 10:42:43 AM UTC-5, Philip Meyer wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm not a Riv owner, but I have a Riv owner's bike right now and want to 
> reunite it with him or her. 
>
> It is an early 2000s, custom road bike, 61.5 seat tube length, light blue 
> with "Rivendell" on the downtube and a Riv head badge. 9 speed with a 
> mixture of Dura Ace 7700 and Ultegra with an XTR MD-950 rear derailleur. 
> Thud buster seatpost and avocet saddle. I contacted RBW about the bike - 
> they said that the serial number indicates it was built by Waterford, but 
> they didn't have records of who the owner was. There are rack braze ons on 
> the seatstay but no rack and no fork braze ons. 
>
> I came across this bike on the side of the road in central LA. The person 
> who had it was selling it for a price so low that I can't imagine it's 
> anything but stolen. After hemming and hawing, I decided to buy it in hopes 
> of returning it to its owner. 
>
> Photo attached - please message me if you have any idea who the owner 
> might be. Thanks!
>
> Philip Meyer
>
>
>

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[RBW] How do you like your Catalyst pedals?

[lum gim fong]

Thinking of trying them when they come out again in polished silver. Wonder if 
the blue color matches a Rambouillet.

1. How do you like your Catalysts?
2. How have they changed your riding?
3. Do they make your bike feel easier to pedal down the road?
4. Have they helped alleviate any foot probs you had with regular pedals?

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[RBW] Re: Granny ring washers

[Nick Payne]

I bought a set of the Sugino inner chainring bolts and spacers off fleabay 
fairly recently. In fact, I just had a look and they're still being sold: 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Sugino-bolts-4mm-spacers-set-for-inner-chainring-of-triple-crank-set-s43ca/282759320482

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[RBW] FS: New Acorn Medium Rando Bag

[Adam Kilgas]

Cross posted from the iBob and 650b list, figured it would fit here also.

I picked this up with the intent of finding/making a padded insert to carry 
around my camera and gear... But then I found the 137 Basket Bag by Outershell 
Adventure, which is exactly what I had in mind (and I already have a Wald 137). 
Not enough funds for both, so the Acorn has to go!

Brand new, hasn't been on a ride yet.  $165 + shipping.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15ojoaqESsUfvINb9O_M7JcrlMmk8N0HD

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[RBW] Clem H Last Chance

[Joe Bernard]

No worries, Doug, I'm mostly dreaming out loud. I'd love to have a mustard H, 
but I would electrify it and I've kinda moved to separating the two disciplines 
at this point. 

The plan now is to get my Candy Apple Red 2-speed Cheviot on the road for 
serious pedaling before I forget how to do it, and buy a full-on 
fatbike-with-hydraulic-discs ebike next summer. Unless I change my mind! 

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[RBW] Re: First 64cm Clem L

[Jay Connolly]

Kai, this one doesn't have the new seat lug, but I was really happy when I 
pulled the frame from the box and saw the curved stays.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 8:00:53 PM UTC-8, Kainalu V. wrote:
>
> That's beeauuutiful. I like that the seatstays are curvy. The 65 Clem H's 
> are straight as an arrow (not that that's bad, just not curvy is all). 
> Someone was selling some regular bullmoose bars on here that might be 
> perfect for that bike, and if you cruise around town locking it up 
> regularly, the bullmoose triangle has that solid triangle for running a 
> cable through and feeling safe while bowling or whatnot. 
> -Kai 
> BK NY 
>

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[RBW] First 64cm Clem L

[Kainalu V.]

That's beeauuutiful. I like that the seatstays are curvy. The 65 Clem H's are 
straight as an arrow (not that that's bad, just not curvy is all). Someone was 
selling some regular bullmoose bars on here that might be perfect for that 
bike, and if you cruise around town locking it up regularly, the bullmoose 
triangle has that solid triangle for running a cable through and feeling safe 
while bowling or whatnot. 
-Kai 
BK NY 

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[RBW] Re: First 64cm Clem L

[MountNormal]

Jay,
   Yeah...kinda what I was thinking now that you've shared. Thank you.  Enjoy 
the sweet bicycle sir.

Stephen 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Kainalu V.]

Classy fillets. Biggish road frame means not being huge? 1 size fits all kinda 
large folks? A 68 roadini would fly off the shelves!
-Kai 
BK NY 

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[RBW] Re: Zoic Reign knickers (was: Winter" clothing help)

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Patrick,
I have the Zoic, Compass, and Riv MUSA knickers. Note: I wear them with 
regular underwear, wool or cotton, no cycling shorts/pads. I'm not a high 
mileage rider; commuting ~15miles round trip.

1. The Zoic is slightly heavier weight than Compass, but quite light. It 
feels different: more rubbery than Compass. Zoic is certainly more durable, 
as my Compass knickers are already pilling by the pockets and sides 
(disappointing).

I think Zoic is slightly better wind protection, but only slightly.

Riv MUSA is heaviest weight. I can and do use them to ~40F; MUSA is too hot 
~55F for me. MUSA feels and is the most durable of the three.

2. My Zoic knickers have a cinch at the cuff. It's a hidden elastic shock 
cord with a plastic spring-stop toggle-cord lock to set the amount of 
cinch. (Same as Compass.) The bottom hem is nice and stretchy (a feature of 
the material), as compared to Compass which does not have the same "give".

3. Zoic feels really nice to me when riding. There is a draw-string-like 
feature to pull hold them up w/o belt. 

The rear pocket stitching closest to the midline became undone. (I'm 
guessing from abrasion with the saddle.) Those areas will need to-be 
restitched if I want to put anything in my rear pockets. Note: I don't ride 
with anything in my rear pockets. 

I've worn the Zoic knickers for several years, and they are in very nice 
condition, other than the rear pocket stitches near where the saddle 
contacts.

The Zoics have cargo pant-like pockets on the mid thighs which add a little 
bulk (pocket flap, velcro, zipper, small plastic key-chain hook). Since I 
don't use those pockets, I would remove them if I were to redesign them. 

Overall:
I'm happy with the Zoic and Riv MUSA. They serve different purposes for me, 
which I only recognized after purchasing and wearing them. (Riv MUSA is 
great at campsites, cooler weather, working in the yard.)

I really liked the Compass (fit, style, features, hand), but as I've only 
worn them for a few months (with infrequent washing) and am experiencing 
pilling on the fabric, I'm disappointed. (Price/performance mismatch.)

Good luck!
Shoji
Arlington MA





On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 2:04:43 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Speaking of winter clothing, I'll repeat this request I posted to the 
> boblist, in case others here have information.
>
> I'm looking at the Zoic cycling knickers: 
> https://tinyurl.com/Zoic-Reign-at-BackCountry
>
> At this point, I'm interested only in these Zoics, though there are weird 
> (to US eyes) websites from the UK offering moleskin plus 4s at reasonable 
> prices; but let's not go there.
>
> Has anyone actually used these? They ring my bells because they seem long 
> enough (19"), have zip fly and belt loops and rear pockets, and are cut 
> loose, and come in roadie approved black.  But I wonder:
>
> 1. How heavy is the material? I ruled out Compass because theirs sound too 
> thin.
>
> 2. These seem not to have a cinch at the cuff; do I see rightly? I can 
> always add a bit of velcro.
>
> 3. Wear: do they wear well in seat and knee?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick Moore, going to ride the Hon Solo shortly, God willing, in coldish 
> ABQ, NM
>

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[RBW] Re: First 64cm Clem L

[Jay Connolly]

I think the 59 would be the one for you in the Clem. I was tempted by the 
Cheviot, but I'm on the outer edge of that one, too. I could have made it 
work, but the big Clem is a great fit. 

Jay

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 7:40:52 PM UTC-8, MountNormal wrote:
>
> So at a saddle height of 76, a fella might have the post slammed down 
> against the seat tube? I ask because the PBH range for the 60 Cheviot 
> seemed to cover a lot of ground and I thought that the 64 Clem might fall 
> within my range. Someday I NEED a step-through...ok, it's a WANT but a 
> really intense "want". 
>
> Thanks for your response.
>
> Stephen 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: First 64cm Clem L

[MountNormal]

So at a saddle height of 76, a fella might have the post slammed down against 
the seat tube? I ask because the PBH range for the 60 Cheviot seemed to cover a 
lot of ground and I thought that the 64 Clem might fall within my range. 
Someday I NEED a step-through...ok, it's a WANT but a really intense "want". 

Thanks for your response.

Stephen 

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[RBW] Re: First 64cm Clem L

[Jay Connolly]

Stephen, I don't know that I ever saw one. At one point, I was ready to 
order a 59 Clem, but I was on the outer edge of fit for that, with about a 
97 PBH, so I backed off and waited--and very glad I did. The Clem has a 
Brooks B67, so I run the seat a centimetre lower than on my other bikes at 
about 85. Plenty of room to raise the seat, if you're taller still.

Jay

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 7:22:15 PM UTC-8, MountNormal wrote:
>
> Jay, 
>   Looks flippin' sweet. If you don't mind me asking, what is the suggested 
> PBH range on the 64? I've been wondering and looking for info on the 64 but 
> have not found any. 
>
> Best,
>
> Stephen 
>
>

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[RBW] First 64cm Clem L

[MountNormal]

Jay, 
  Looks flippin' sweet. If you don't mind me asking, what is the suggested PBH 
range on the 64? I've been wondering and looking for info on the 64 but have 
not found any. 

Best,

Stephen 

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[RBW] Re: Granny ring washers

[Dave Johnston]

ebay
wheels manufacturing chainring spacers

Should be about $18 for 20 of the things. Your local bike shop might have a 
kit from the old days if they have been around a long time. You can also 
order direct from wheels mfg.
 I might have some extras in some sizes like 5.0mm and 4.0 mm
https://www.ebay.com/sch/wheels%20manufacturing%20chainring%20spacers?rmvSB=true

Hopefully somebody will chime in with the correct size. I would start with 
4.0mm otherwise.

-Dave

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:43:25 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I have some old Suntour (Sugino) XC cranks on want to use on my upcoming 
> Cheviot as a double-plus-guard, but I'm going to need rings and those 
> little washers you use on the back for the granny ring. Anybody know what 
> size/who sells them?
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H Last Chance

[Jeremy Tavan]

Understandable, given the feedback on the two models I've been reading 
here. That said, I vastly prefer my Clem H to my wife's Clementine L. Hers 
is certainly prettier, but the flex bothers me.

/Jeremy

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 6:59:54 PM UTC-8, Doug H. wrote:
>
> The BLUG hints that this may be the last run of the Clem H. Get em while 
> you can!

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[RBW] Clem H Last Chance

[Doug H.]

Yes! Or no. 

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[RBW] Clem H Last Chance

[Joe Bernard]

Hoo boy. I just sold my Clem L to finance my Cheviot and because I don't need 
two Riv step-throughs but that H would be cool and I really like the mustard 
color so I totally should do it that makes sense right?

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[RBW] Clem H Last Chance

[Doug H.]

The BLUG hints that this may be the last run of the Clem H. Get em while you 
can!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Ray Varella]

I suspect no one has said anything because there wasn’t a spy photo on the BLUG 
to create the typical buzz here at the cyber-water cooler 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Joe Bernard]

Not only did I not say anything, but I was at Riv today and forgot to look for 
it. Dangit!

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[RBW] Re: Clem L question

[Joe Bernard]

Hmm. I'm going on these photos cuz I just sold the bike...

https://goo.gl/photos/AocvMvSFvs4DqjV58

...but it looks like this triple.

https://jet.com/product/detail/2cd76a9cd309474ab26f18a3c25b52e4?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_sporting_goods_a3:sporting_goods_bikes_bike_parts_components_a3:na:PLA_984945068_50367780162_pla-308576839366_m:na:na:na:2PLA15=kenshoo_int=984945068_retargeting=true=62d9dfe0-7dd1-4b69-a774-398341b615e2=CjwKCAiA6qPRBRAkEiwAGw4Sdtj7Lkx-vpko9fgmFhXpBlRsi_kUX0kcE0DeKP-WkyBK81v_Ph7_ShoCp-oQAvD_BwE

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Grant Petersen]

No, it's a prototype, something we'll be trying out and maybe do to a
biggish roadish frame next year. I'm surprised nobody's said anything. It's
fne, though!

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Ray Varella  wrote:

> No one has mentioned the diversion attachment,
> Grant, is that the illegitimate love child of a truss frame and double top
> tube frame?
> Now the PETA folks will be after us to spay and neuter our bikes, the
> shelters are full.
>
> Ray
> Vallejo CA
>
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[RBW] Granny ring washers

[Joe Bernard]

I have some old Suntour (Sugino) XC cranks on want to use on my upcoming 
Cheviot as a double-plus-guard, but I'm going to need rings and those little 
washers you use on the back for the granny ring. Anybody know what size/who 
sells them?

Joe Bernard
Novato CA. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Ray Varella]

No one has mentioned the diversion attachment, 
Grant, is that the illegitimate love child of a truss frame and double top tube 
frame?
Now the PETA folks will be after us to spay and neuter our bikes, the shelters 
are full. 

Ray
Vallejo CA

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[RBW] Re: Clem L question

[Belopsky]

Is it the 2 speed or 3 speed Claris?

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[RBW] Re: Clem L question

[Joe Bernard]

It's a 28.6 mounting which Shimano fudges by offering it as 28.6/31.8 with 
those little black spacers you saw tumbling down the road. Or you can use any 
old 28.6 road double mech if you're running the stock 38-24 cranks. 

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[RBW] Clem L question

[Belopsky]

My chain blew up and took the Claris derailleur with it.
What's the clamp size I need for the front derailleur?

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[RBW] Re: Clem L question

[Belopsky]

I would just look but I left my bike at work and will be out of town for 3 
days and want to come back to work, install the parts and ride home on 
Monday

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:16:26 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> My chain blew up and took the Claris derailleur with it.
> What's the clamp size I need for the front derailleur?
>

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[RBW] First 64cm Clem L

[Joe Bernard]

That's a nifty bike. The blue cranks on a grilver frame are funky and cool. The 
bottle cage is neat, too. 

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Doug H.]

A generous group member, Tom, has offered to send me a pair of MKS sneaker 
pedals for postage cost only. Thanks so much Tom! This is a genuinely good 
group of people. 
Doug

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Brian Campbell]

+1 on all of this. I have an 11 1/2 size foot.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 4:49:18 PM UTC-5, Mojo wrote:
>
> I found Grip Kings to be not all grippy and not supportive for the outside 
> of my size 11 feet. I have happily used the VP Vice 
> http://www.vpcomponents.com/product/vp-015/ which I like better than the 
> Thin Gripster because it is a bit larger and has full length axles. Just 
> this fall I bought the Catalyst pedal from a local (western CO) company. It 
> is long like the Grip Kings and grippy like the VP pedals. I love them 
> especially with the optional longer pins.  
> https://pedalinginnovations.com/
>
> Joe in GJT
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>>>
>>> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
>>> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
>>> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
>>> Thanks!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: MKS RMX Service/Rebuild

[Bill Lindsay]

Good Work!  That's the way to do it.  

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 3:22:32 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> You missed the PS at the end. He tried different pedals. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Steven Seelig]

At the risk of  endorsing a product, I got this Weatherneck 
 thingee last year, and it is super awesome.  
The mask part lets  you breath through the mesh in the middle, so it 
minimizes fogginess on your glasses.  It attached in back by magnets, so 
you can pull it off if you get too hot. The hat also has the mesh in the 
middle to disburse heat, while also having a mullet cover that goes down 
your neck making it superwarm.  I just bought another one for my 8 year old 
boy, who also likes to ride in the winter.

Steve in DC

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 2:07:19 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Non-clothing tip: In the cold, only breath through your nose. Slow down if 
> you need to. You will feel better, temperature regulation will vastly 
> improve, and you will build a solid aerobic base of fitness. It can take 
> some frustrating learning to get there, especially if you are very used to 
> overbreathing through your mouth (and many people are). However, in the 
> cold, the sinuses are designed to heat and moisturize air before getting to 
> the lungs.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick  
>

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[RBW] Re: MKS RMX Service/Rebuild

[Joe Bernard]

You missed the PS at the end. He tried different pedals. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Joe Bernard]

Fat tires, fat bikes, I bring you...fat brakes!

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Belopsky]

I can look back in a bit and report.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 4:16:26 PM UTC-5, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Replacing an axle and adding spacers is ORDINARILY very easy, and that's 
> the place to get them.  The question here is whether or not the suzue hub 
> has a typical threaded axle with screw-on cone/race that can be 
> transferred, or if it has some sort of fixed shoulder that's part of the 
> axle.  I'd love to know, if anyone has or is willing to take theirs apart.

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Bernie Burton]

I found Scott Carneys book WHAT DOESN'T KILL US very infomative about the
massive change heating and air conditioning have caused on human existence.
For the entire history of humanity, humans have been subjected to
tremendous weather changes each year. We basically now live at 72-74
degrees year round. This is a very informative book that is great food for
thought.

Bernie Burton

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 1:07 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Non-clothing tip: In the cold, only breath through your nose. Slow down if
> you need to. You will feel better, temperature regulation will vastly
> improve, and you will build a solid aerobic base of fitness. It can take
> some frustrating learning to get there, especially if you are very used to
> overbreathing through your mouth (and many people are). However, in the
> cold, the sinuses are designed to heat and moisturize air before getting to
> the lungs.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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Re: [RBW] Cornicopia of Rides

[Jim Bronson]

Minus 4 F!  Wow!  25 above is about my lower limit, and I'm probably
whining at that.

Gorgeous pics!

-Jim

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> In which we ride Rampart before the snow, discover the clearence of
> Snowqualmie 44mm tires on the Quickbeam, witness a nearly impossible
> convergence, scout for Christmas trees, and ride off into the nippy sunrise.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-nippy
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
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Re: [RBW] Cornicopia of Rides

[Deacon Patrick]

Patrick of the Moore: the Snowqualmies measure within 1-2mm of nominal, as is 
my experience with all 3 Compass tires I’ve tried. They go on 3-4mm small, then 
stretch with use, though slowly for me because I don’t inflate them over 40psi. 
Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Cornicopia of Rides

[dougP]

Thanks for the photos.  Beatiful country.  I can see why you love it up 
there.  

dougP

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:07:22 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> In which we ride Rampart before the snow, discover the clearence of 
> Snowqualmie 44mm tires on the Quickbeam, witness a nearly impossible 
> convergence, scout for Christmas trees, and ride off into the nippy sunrise.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-nippy
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I found Grip Kings to be not all grippy and not supportive for the outside 
of my size 11 feet. I have happily used the VP 
Vice http://www.vpcomponents.com/product/vp-015/ which I like better than 
the Thin Gripster because it is a bit larger and has full length axles. 
Just this fall I bought the Catalyst pedal from a local (western CO) 
company. It is long like the Grip Kings and grippy like the VP pedals. I 
love them especially with the optional longer pins. 
 https://pedalinginnovations.com/

Joe in GJT


On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
>> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
>> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
>> Thanks!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: MKS RMX Service/Rebuild

[Bill Lindsay]

By what method did you determine that the click on one side was coming from 
the pedal?  Is it just judgement?  That's where the sound seems to be 
coming from?  Or did you confirm it be swapping to different pedals and 
observing the sound was gone?  

I ask because as a team mechanic for about 30 highschoolers, I get plenty 
of "Bill, my bike clicks when I pedal hard".  It can be the saddle, 
seatpost, BB, crank arm, chainring, cassette body, cassette, rear hub, rear 
dropout, suspension pivot, spokes... It can even be headset related.  
Determining which subsystem is actually making the sound is the first, and 
sometimes hardest part of fixing it. 

Even if it isn't the pedals, overhauling them is a noble exercise.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 12:45:05 PM UTC-8, Tim O. (Portland, OR) 
wrote:
>
> Hey howdy-
>
> My MKS RMX (sneaker) pedals have developed a clicking sound on one side. 
> They still spin well, but it makes me worry how long they'll last. Plus, 
> the sound is annoying. Anyone had luck servicing the sneaker pedal? 
>
> Thanks,
> Tim O.
> Portland, O
>
> ps. I did test my bike with different pedals to make sure the sound wasn't 
> coming from the bottom bracket. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Cornicopia of Rides

[Patrick Moore]

Beautiful. Forgive me if I've asked this already, but what do the
Snoqualmies actually measure on your rims?

Patrick Moore, who wishes Compass had a similar tire that was 1 cm wider.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 10:07 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> In which we ride Rampart before the snow, discover the clearence of
> Snowqualmie 44mm tires on the Quickbeam, witness a nearly impossible
> convergence, scout for Christmas trees, and ride off into the nippy sunrise.
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-nippy
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
> --
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[iamkeith]

Replacing an axle and adding spacers is ORDINARILY very easy, and that's the 
place to get them.  The question here is whether or not the suzue hub has a 
typical threaded axle with screw-on cone/race that can be transferred, or if it 
has some sort of fixed shoulder that's part of the axle.  I'd love to know, if 
anyone has or is willing to take theirs apart.

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Re: [RBW] MKS RMX Service/Rebuild

[Patrick Moore]

For a $30 pedal, my rebuild method of choice is to pry off the dustcap and
inject as much grease with a grease gun as the axle tube will hold. But if
the RMXs are like the GR-9 or the oddly named but even nicer Esprit, you
can pry off the dustcap and access the locknut and cones and bearings. I've
rebuilt Shimano mtb rattrap pedals with cones and bearings, though --
finicky but doable.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 1:45 PM, Tim O. (Portland, OR) <
timothycharles...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey howdy-
>
> My MKS RMX (sneaker) pedals have developed a clicking sound on one side.
> They still spin well, but it makes me worry how long they'll last. Plus,
> the sound is annoying. Anyone had luck servicing the sneaker pedal?
>
> Thanks,
> Tim O.
> Portland, O
>
> ps. I did test my bike with different pedals to make sure the sound wasn't
> coming from the bottom bracket.
>
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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[RichS]

Grip Kings are quite comfortable. I like them a lot and have them on three 
bikes. They grip just fine when I'm wearing Keen sandals or sneakers. Yes, 
they are slippery when wet. But, for extra grip you can install self 
tapping screws in the little wells on the surface of the pedals. Riv sells 
them for $12 a package on the "pedals" page.

Regards,
Richard 

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
> Thanks!

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[RBW] MKS RMX Service/Rebuild

[Tim O. (Portland, OR)]

Hey howdy-

My MKS RMX (sneaker) pedals have developed a clicking sound on one side. 
They still spin well, but it makes me worry how long they'll last. Plus, 
the sound is annoying. Anyone had luck servicing the sneaker pedal? 

Thanks,
Tim O.
Portland, O

ps. I did test my bike with different pedals to make sure the sound wasn't 
coming from the bottom bracket. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Grant Petersen]

No, I meant 610mm. World records.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Peter Adler  wrote:

> 610mm = 61cm = 24" and change. You mean 61mm, yes?
>
> Peter Adler
> who bought a set of those @100mm cruiser Tektro DP sidepulls at a
> warehouse sale a few years back, decided that the mechanical advantage made
> them unusable for stopping bikes, and cannibalized the nutted bolts to
> convert the Allen-wrench 559s bought at the previous year's sale
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
> On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 3:32:00 PM UTC-8, Grant @ Rivendell
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> recommended brakes: the 559 sidepull, paul or compass cp, or the soon to
>> be reissued Dia-Compe 610 centerpull (with a max reach of 610mm)
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Peter Adler]

610mm = 61cm = 24" and change. You mean 61mm, yes?

Peter Adler
who bought a set of those @100mm cruiser Tektro DP sidepulls at a warehouse 
sale a few years back, decided that the mechanical advantage made them 
unusable for stopping bikes, and cannibalized the nutted bolts to convert 
the Allen-wrench 559s bought at the previous year's sale
Berkeley, CA/USA

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 3:32:00 PM UTC-8, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
>
> recommended brakes: the 559 sidepull, paul or compass cp, or the soon to 
> be reissued Dia-Compe 610 centerpull (with a max reach of 610mm)
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Deacon Patrick]

Non-clothing tip: In the cold, only breath through your nose. Slow down if you 
need to. You will feel better, temperature regulation will vastly improve, and 
you will build a solid aerobic base of fitness. It can take some frustrating 
learning to get there, especially if you are very used to overbreathing through 
your mouth (and many people are). However, in the cold, the sinuses are 
designed to heat and moisturize air before getting to the lungs.

With abandon,
Patrick  

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[RBW] Zoic Reign knickers (was: Winter" clothing help)

[Patrick Moore]

Speaking of winter clothing, I'll repeat this request I posted to the
boblist, in case others here have information.

I'm looking at the Zoic cycling knickers:
https://tinyurl.com/Zoic-Reign-at-BackCountry

At this point, I'm interested only in these Zoics, though there are weird
(to US eyes) websites from the UK offering moleskin plus 4s at reasonable
prices; but let's not go there.

Has anyone actually used these? They ring my bells because they seem long
enough (19"), have zip fly and belt loops and rear pockets, and are cut
loose, and come in roadie approved black.  But I wonder:

1. How heavy is the material? I ruled out Compass because theirs sound too
thin.

2. These seem not to have a cinch at the cuff; do I see rightly? I can
always add a bit of velcro.

3. Wear: do they wear well in seat and knee?

Thanks.

Patrick Moore, going to ride the Hon Solo shortly, God willing, in coldish
ABQ, NM

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Belopsky]

That's a great point. Something like this. 
http://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-axles/axle-03.html

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 12:22:21 PM UTC-5, Jim M. wrote:
>
> It's not difficult or expensive to replace the axle with a 130. You can 
> even get a solid axle if you want.
>
> jim m
> walnut creek
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 8:36:55 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> Yep, they are QR. This answers my questions
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Patrick Moore]

Fred: in case this is useful information: I've been washing wool, even
expensive merino jerseys, and even expensive wool dress pants cut down to
cycling knickers, in my machine on either the "hand wash" or the
"delicates" setting: the latter is not quite as delicate as the former. I
use Kookabura and cold water.

I hang dry on a rack, after gently stretching the arms of jerseys and other
wool tops (wool socks too) to ensure they don't shrink. I know they tell
you not to hang wool knits, but I do it anyway, just carefully; and I wash
my things no more than 3X a cold season.

So far, so good -- none of my jerseys, gloves, hats, pants, have shown any
damage. Note though that this is high desert ABQ, NM where humidity in
winter is between 20 and 60 percent. OTOH again, it's always dry in a
forced air heated house, right?

And: I've found literally dozens of nice, thin merino wool tops at Goodwill
for $5 or less each; these tend to shrink more easily than high quality
wool cycling jerseys, though, so I buy quite large and treat gently.

One last thought: For some reason, I seem very susceptible to sore throats
if my neck gets cold, so I've had a nice wool scarf cut down -- I had it
cut in half longitudinally -- for a less bulky neck cover; Royal Stuart, if
I'm not mistaken. Works well. *And,* as an alternative, I've had my own
dickies made from the neck, shoulders, and a bit of the front of thicker
wool turtlenecks -- you can easily pull a top over these, and when it gets
too hot, you can easily pull these out from under it.

Anyway, FWIW.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 10:04 AM, Fred Craven  wrote:

> Update: Great help. I've been swamped at work so I haven't been able to
> reply to the thread yet.
>
> So far I have been reminded that Layering is key (I knew that) and y'all
> have given me several options in the wool/"not wool" realm. This is really
> helpful, actually. I hope to buy some stuff as soon as I can. The ability
> to wash something easily is helpful, but so is not stinking.
>
> WIND, yes, that is my key enemy, I think, cold wind. Sure, I'll make a
> goal of it to go out in snowy conditions, but we rarely get that around
> here. It's the cold dry stuff with the cutting wind that I need to consider.
>
> More comments to come later.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver Shifter 2 project revived

[Patrick Moore]

Mixte fixie.

If I do anything, I probably will get someone to respace the 2003 Curt bike
to 120-125 mm OL to accommodate that AM hub; the hub is spaced at 114, but
the axle is long enough to take 5 mm of spacers on each end; though will
have to adjust shifting adjustment accordingly. We'll see. Will first have
to send hub to Aaron's Bicycle Repair to get it checked out. I'll probably
end up thinking about it all for another year.

On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 11:45 PM, Grant Petersen  wrote:

> Note to non-deacon Patrick: Your size is a mixte!
>
> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 7:57 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> *That's *what I had in mind. Thanks.
>>
>> Non-diaconal-Patrick, who damn' well won't buy a 59, in ABQ, NM.
>>
>> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 4:31 PM, Grant Petersen 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Note to non-deacon Patrick about the singlespeeder:
>>> Name:  Frank Jones Sr.
>>> Not for: 26-inch wheels! ha.
>>> Upslope: 3-deg
>>> New lug seat tube super boss
>>> Custom lugs on head tube (the combo is unique, looks great)
>>> Fillet BB b/c the downtube is 28.6
>>> Color: Homer blue
>>> Rear dropout: Made it just for this bike. Wacky long rear entry two-eyes
>>> hooded kind, looks l ike an alligator, soaks up 8t chainring diff
>>> Midfork braze-ons, as I recall. We'll get a sample soon. I could look it
>>> up...I suppose
>>>
>>> Sizes: You should get a 59, but would probably want a 57. ha
>>>
>>> Name trivia: It was made for Blue Lug. I asked 'em if they had any name
>>> in mind, or any style of name. Said no. I presented 5 names, four of which
>>> were clever variants of ONE or SINGLE (Solouno...etc) plus the insane wild
>>> card  super American sounding Frank Jones SR.  That's what they picked, and
>>> I like it!
>>>
>>> 120 spacing
>>> rackmounts
>>> brake reach 59, which allows 38mm tire (a BL requirement)
>>>
>>> recommended brakes: the 559 sidepull, paul or compass cp, or the soon to
>>> be reissued Dia-Compe 610 centerpull (with a max reach of 610mm)
>>>
>>> I'm getting a 59 for my short bursty sprints on the way to and from
>>> work, with Albastache bars and 'Browns.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 10:08 AM, Patrick Moore 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Grant said: "The SS project started out a dumb lark in the early
 2000s, and has been tremendously successful. Not financially, but from the
 point of view that lots of riders have been given the chance to learn
 friction shifting, and if no SILVER, no chance. That's not important in the
 big picture, but to me, personally, it is huge. I'm really proud of it, not
 in an outward chest-thump way or a smug way, but in an inward way."

 That (in a general sense) is why Rivendell is worth keeping around --
 so to speak. One gets so effing tired of hearing of "resource optimization"
 and "cost efficiencies" and "marketing focus strategies" and "product
 portfolio optimization". Puke, puke, puke. Make something because it's good
 and fun and useful!

 When will we hear geom specs for the SS? Will it plane? Will it work
 with my AM hub? How fat a tire?

 Patrick Moore, not going to buy a Roadini after all, but who knows
 about the SS, who still thinks the old Bar Con is the one to beat.

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>>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>> 
>> 
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>>
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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Paul Choi]

I have the Thin Gripster from Riv on my Clem. The grip is really good and 
they look great in the dark grey finish. 

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[RBW] Re: Shimano 600 EX Freewheels need a home(s)

[Joe Huddleston]

#7 spoken for. The 13-21s are available as a lot for $50 plus USPS 
shipping. Likewise 13-18, 19 for $30 plus USPS ship

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 5:43:45 PM UTC-5, Joe Huddleston wrote:
>
> For your consideration: pre-owned Shimano 600 EX: MF 6208 6 SPD. SIS 
> compatible.Uniglide gears.Sealed Mechanism.Wt. 13.6 oz/386g. Steel w/silver 
> finish.Chain:1/2 x/3/32.BC 1/37x24tpi threading.Freshly lubed with Lucas #2 
> Red Tacky and Phil Tenacious Oil.Cogs loosely assembled on FW body. They 
> have been used sparingly since I got them and  have performed flawlessly. 
> All cogs, FW bodies, spacers, threads,etc. in fine condition Metculously 
> cleaned and reassembled after use. Just have too many FW's to use them all.
>
> 1.13,14,15,16,17,18T: VGUC: $20 +USPS shipping
> 2.13,15,16,17,18,19T: VGUC: $20 +USPS shipping
> 3.13,14,15,17,19,21T: GUC: $20+ USPS shipping
> 4.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC:$20+USPS shipping
> 5.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC:$20+ USPS shipping
> 6.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC $20 +USPS shipping (new13Tcog)
> 7.13,15,17,19,21,24T: GUC: $20 + USPS shipping
> 8.13,15,17,19,21,24T: GUc:$20 + USPS shipping
> 9.13,15,18,20,23,26T: EUC/VGUC: $20 + USPS shipping (pristine with some 
> new cogs)
>
> Also
> 1. 18T cog:New (other) bought not installed. $7 + $3 USPS shipping
> 2. 16T cog:New (other) bought not installed. $7 +$3 USPS shipping
> 3. 13T 1st position cog:used and cosmetically challenged, yet very 
> useable-finish flaked on a few tooth fronts
> $5 free USPS shipping
> Photos available. Thanks for your time and consideration. 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 700c Wheelset and Dyno, Sugino crank, Schwalbe, Cazadero

[drew]

Bumping. need to move this stuff along. if you are in los angeles and want 
the wheels, subtract 50$

*Velocity dyad/XT hub /shimano 9sp cassette 700c, 36h wheelset- *225$ 
shipped

*Sugino xd2 triple. 170mm arms. Very good condition *-70$ shipped 

*WTB nano 29x2.1 tire set. only 50ish miles on them.* 45$ shipped

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[William!]

With spikes the Grip Kings, are my favorite pedal. Something about the 
shape/size really works for me – they just seem to transfer the power to my 
drivetrain better than any other flat pedal I've tried.  The Grip Kings are 
what finally convinced me to switch to flat pedals after nearly a decade of 
riding SPD everywhere.

That said, they *really* should come with spikes, if not installed then at 
least in with the packaging. Unless you only ride on smooth trails in dry 
weather with grippy shoes, the spikeless pedals are just too slippery. With 
spikes, they work great even on trails in the rain wearing wood-soled shoes 
(yes I've done that).

If you don't feel like getting mildly involved with a drill, choose a pedal 
that comes with spikes out of the box. Otherwise, Grip Kings!

Best,
William

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 8:21:35 AM UTC-8, Max S wrote:
>
> I vaguely recall the box saying Taiwan... (Which is consistent with Wellgo 
> being a Taiwanese company.) 
>
> - Max 
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 9:09:05 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> Those look good Max. Where are they made?
>
>

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[RBW] Cornicopia of Rides

[Carla Waugh]

Beautiful pics!

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Jim M.]

It's not difficult or expensive to replace the axle with a 130. You can 
even get a solid axle if you want.

jim m
walnut creek

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 8:36:55 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Yep, they are QR. This answers my questions
>
> Thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Deacon Patrick]

Fred, if wet is rarely the issue and wind is often the issue, I recommend:
- fishnet base top
- any shirt you please
- any canvas jacket you please. (upgrade this to ventile if wet is more often a 
concern)
- add wool to extremities as required. 

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Cornicopia of Rides

[Deacon Patrick]

In which we ride Rampart before the snow, discover the clearence of Snowqualmie 
44mm tires on the Quickbeam, witness a nearly impossible convergence, scout for 
Christmas trees, and ride off into the nippy sunrise.
https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/getting-nippy

With abandon,
Patrick

www.CredoFamily.org
www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[Fred Craven]

Update: Great help. I've been swamped at work so I haven't been able to 
reply to the thread yet.

So far I have been reminded that Layering is key (I knew that) and y'all 
have given me several options in the wool/"not wool" realm. This is really 
helpful, actually. I hope to buy some stuff as soon as I can. The ability 
to wash something easily is helpful, but so is not stinking.

WIND, yes, that is my key enemy, I think, cold wind. Sure, I'll make a goal 
of it to go out in snowy conditions, but we rarely get that around here. 
It's the cold dry stuff with the cutting wind that I need to consider.

More comments to come later.

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Belopsky]

Yep, they are QR. This answers my questions

Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best Rack for a large saddlesack on a large frame?

[Patrick Moore]

Scott: I don't need information about bag support, but I would be very
interested to see photo/s of your wooden bike holder/s, and learn how many
bikes your system holds.

Thanks, Patrick Moore, who supported a large Sackville on his Matthews's
rack until he decided panniers worked better.

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 5:37 AM, scott  wrote:

> Here you go. This is on my brand new Atlantis.
>
>
> ednesday, December 6, 2017 at 6:45:34 PM UTC-6, John Hawrylak wrote:
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > Can you provide a pic of the seat stay mod you use??  I have 3 of
> these from the 70's, models R and S I believe
> >
> >
> > John Hawrylak
> > Woodstown NJ
> >
> > On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 7:22:26 PM UTC-5, scott wrote:My wife
> and I are bringing back the older Riv notion of putting a cheap Pletscher
> mousetrap rack on nice bikes. I find them for a buck at garage sales or
> flea markets. I replace the mounting hardware for the seat stays with
> leftover Nitto P clamps. Works great!
>
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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Max S]

I vaguely recall the box saying Taiwan... (Which is consistent with Wellgo 
being a Taiwanese company.) 

- Max 


On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 9:09:05 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
> Those look good Max. Where are they made?

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[RBW] Re: "Winter" clothing help

[eflayer]

wool is fine until it gets wet...and then it become wet wool. it may still 
have its thermal properties but it still feels wet to me. i have found 
synthetics to equal in warming and way better in letting the wet out.
granted wool avoids stink way better than synthetics but you can wash 
synthetics without paying any attention.

i have gone full circle from having a completer winter wardrobe of wool to 
now have the same in synthetic. to each their own.

On Tuesday, December 5, 2017 at 10:02:53 AM UTC-8, Fred Craven wrote:
>
> It's fast approaching winter I would like to keep riding to work. My 
> problem is that I don't have any appropriate winter cycling clothing. 30 
> years ago, I had some wool tights and jerseys, with layers that worked just 
> fine.
>
> I can go "all cyclist" and get fancy winter cycling clothes on line or at 
> a LBS (We have several good LBS' in our area); however, I would like to 
> keep to the spirit of a stealth "Rivendell" look if at all possible. 
> Currently I layer up with various regular daily clothing. I don't have 
> proper face protection, and I don't have proper gloves...I don't have 
> proper anything, really. The wind simply cuts through.
>
> I'm in the Dallas area, so we really haven't had much cold yet, but I 
> would like to be able to ride comfortably in the 40s. I know that many of 
> you do that. I'm open for suggestions. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

Please ignore my QR vs Bolt-on question... Jeremy already answered that 
while I was still typing it.

Thanks

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 11:05:47 AM UTC-5, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:

>
> Was the wheelset QR or bolt on?  I discovered Rivendell after the 
> Quickbeams had been long gone (aside from a few remaining warehouse frame 
> finds that I apparently missed a while ago)
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[iamkeith]

I have a set of 26" bolt-on, 120mm suzue hub wheels that i wanted to convert to 
QR axles once.  When sheldon was alive, he told me that it wasn't practical to 
change axles on those suzue hubs, unfortunately.  I would assume that swapping 
in a longer one would be equally difficult, but don't really know.  I've been 
reluctant to pop the unique bearing covers / dust caps off at risk of damaging 
them, to see how they're built.  I'm assuming that the axles must have a 
built-in shoulder, but that's total speculation.

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

As long as you respace each side of the hub and extra 5mm equally to 
achieve the wider over lock nut your chainline wouldn't change at the hub 
but as EasyRider mentioned you may have different chainring clearances with 
the wider spaced 130 frame which may or may not require a longer bb spindle 
to clear the chainstays with same sized rings vs the 120 frame.

Was the wheelset QR or bolt on?  I discovered Rivendell after the 
Quickbeams had been long gone (aside from a few remaining warehouse frame 
finds that I apparently missed a while ago)

I have 2 sets of singlespeed wheels with traditional bolt on rear hubs.  
One has a short axle and cannot be spaced any wider as the outside of the 
bolts already sit flush with the axle ends when installed but the other is 
wide enough to space out to 130 (maybe even 135.)

If QR, however, you only need enough axle protrusion from the locknut to 
keep the wheel lined up in the dropout/trackends.

Brian Cole
Lawrenceville, NJ

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:49:32 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:

> I am not home but I was hoping someone could help..
> I got a wheelset off here, I was told it came from the quickbeam complete 
> - it's suzue hubs laced to araya.
>
> the hub is 120mm spaced in the rear, right? Is it possible to make it 
> 130mm? I'd rather use it in a 130mm spaced frame (but does that mean 
> chainline will be off?)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[Jeremy Till]

Because the QB came with quick-release hubs, the axles on those wheels are 
hollow and the axle probably only extends ~5mm past the locknuts, so adding 
5mm of spacers on both sides to space the wheel out to 130mm would probably 
take up all remaining axle overhang, if you'd even be able to thread the 
locknuts on at all.  Running an axle flush with the locknuts isn't ideal, 
but supposedly Sheldon did it on a fixed gear with vertical drop outs to 
provide a modicum of chain tensioning ability.  If the intended bike has 
horizontal dropouts I think you'd just be setting yourself up for wheel 
alignment headaches.  

Generally, if the axle is too short the answer is to replace with a longer 
one it and add spacers.  I've never worked on a QB hub so I don't know if 
it's just a plain axle in there that can be replaced or if it has some type 
of proprietary shoulders for the cartridge bearings, which probably make 
finding an appropriate axle difficult or impossible.  Cheaper bolt-on fixed 
gear hubs that we ubiquitous ~10 years ago generally came with long axles 
such that you could add spacers under the locknuts for just this situation 
and still have plenty of axle left to go through the dropouts and thread an 
axle nut onto.  If it were me trying find a cheap solution to run a track 
hub on 130mm spaced bike, that's what I would look for.  My favorite were 
sold under the Formula, IRO, Harris, and maybe Origin 8 brands.

In the rear, chainline is the measurement from the center of the hub 
(measured between the locknut faces) to the centerline of the cog, so 
adding an equal number of spacers under the locknut on both sides of the 
wheel wouldn't change it.  If you space the two sides unequally, you will 
change the chainline, but you will also then have to re-dish the wheel.  
This is a common technique for converting old multi-speed freewheel wheels 
to singlespeed or loctite fixed gear.  

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 6:49:32 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I am not home but I was hoping someone could help..
> I got a wheelset off here, I was told it came from the quickbeam complete 
> - it's suzue hubs laced to araya.
>
> the hub is 120mm spaced in the rear, right? Is it possible to make it 
> 130mm? I'd rather use it in a 130mm spaced frame (but does that mean 
> chainline will be off?)
>
>

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Deacon Patrick]

Wiggy’s top is $38. $88 is for the set.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Tim Gavin]

Deacon-  I appreciate your suggestion of fishnet base layers.  I do not
doubt their effectiveness.  But "feels like wearing a nylon fishing net"
for $88 (Wiggy's) doesn't sound attractive.  Nor does the price of the
Brynje versions.

I'm in the "buy used at half price or less" budget range (including my
Riv), so I'm not seeing fishnet as a realistic option.  The <$10 apiece
synthetic stuff is doing pretty well for me now and staying within my
budget.


Bill in Roswell-  In my experience, sweaty merino wool chills my chest, and
I can't warm up until I remove it and get indoors.  That is way worse than
any over-cooling from the synthetics at higher wind speed.  My merino is
top-shelf Ibex stuff (bought used from listmembers) but it doesn't wick
fast enough for my sweat level.
The synthetic base layer wicks fast enough for my core to warm back up even
if I get a little chilled.
I wear a wind-blocking vest over my synthetic and merino layers, and that
keeps my core from getting too chilled.  And I've never experienced a
situation where my exposed arms (with a two layers of merino over synthetic
but no wind-blocking) cool faster than they warm up from activity (down to
about 0 degrees F).


But, everyone's bodies are different.  For example, it has to be below 15 F
before I put on heavy gloves or an additional head covering.  Merino liner
gloves inside normal full-finger cycling gloves, and my vented Bern
Brentwood with a thin winter liner are sufficient for me in most cold
weather.
Many other folks need to bundle up a lot sooner; I'm just a furnace when I
ride.  It also matters that my winter riding is more often MTB and fat bike
"stomping", which is high-intensity but lower relative wind speed.  I stay
off the paved roads most of the year, and especially so in the winter.


On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 3:07 AM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Tim said, “However, I've found that I sweat too much to use merino wool as
> a base layer; it eventually ends up clammy and cold against my skin.”
> Bill in Roswell said “there is a temp point for me where the efficiency of
> synthetics at moving moisture causes "chill off", i.e. cooling too fast.”
>
> Fishnet, lads. Fishnet. Then, what your insulative layer is no longer
> matters. To test this out I rode with my insulative layer as a heavy cotton
> flannel straight from the wringer and slightly dripping wet still at -10˚F,
> sandwiched between fishnet base layer and ventile jacket for over an hour.
> Though not toasty warm, it worked a charm, though the sleeves near the
> wrist froze, I was only slightly chilled. After that, I had no problem
> riding with cotton as my insulative layer, because no matter how much I
> sweat, it’ll still be dryer than that. Grin. Wiggy’s version costs less
> (and is the one I did the extreme test with), but feels like wearing a
> nylon fishing net. The merino wool Brynje version costs more but feels much
> better next to the skin. May be overkill for GA though?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Sam Hillborne complete, a 54cm Rambouillet complete, and a 60cm Saluki frame/fork, w XTR/Schmidt dynamo 650b wheelset, & GB fenders

[Shwangnle]

Hello,

The Saluki has been 99.4% sold and shall be on its way to its new rider 
within S24h. The Rambouillet and Sam are currently available. 

Bags, racks, and toasty warm clothing will be listed next. 

Thanks and happy holidays,
Shawn



On Thursday, November 23, 2017 at 12:28:19 AM UTC-7, Shwangnle wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm Shawn and its time to start selling some of my Rivendell bicycles, 
> bags, clothing, racks, and ephemera. 
>
> My sale starts here with these three lightly ridden bicycles: the full 
> specifications are available at the photo descriptions. 
>
> 60cm Saluki - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/33551746@N03/albums/72157658218913790   
> 54cm Rambouillet - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/33551746@N03/albums/72157658611636742
> 60cm Sam Hillbourne - 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/33551746@N03/albums/72157685177639484
>
> All are in excellent condition with minimal signs of wear. You should be 
> able to see nearly everything in my photo albums, however, if you have any 
> specific questions feel free to ask either in the forum or in a private 
> message. All will be (are, to be specific) professionally packaged and 
> shipped via Bikeflights fully insured with a flat fee of $150 in the 
> continental US. 
>
> Pricing is as follows. Saluki $1800.  Rambouillet $1500.  Sam H. $1400.
>
> Thanks for looking and happy Thanksgiving to you and yours,
> Shawn
>

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[RBW] Re: Shimano 600 EX Freewheels need a home(s)

[Joe Huddleston]

#8 and #9 spoken for. Sorry for the delay in posting. Other orphans await 
your perusal.
On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 5:43:45 PM UTC-5, Joe Huddleston wrote:
>
> For your consideration: pre-owned Shimano 600 EX: MF 6208 6 SPD. SIS 
> compatible.Uniglide gears.Sealed Mechanism.Wt. 13.6 oz/386g. Steel w/silver 
> finish.Chain:1/2 x/3/32.BC 1/37x24tpi threading.Freshly lubed with Lucas #2 
> Red Tacky and Phil Tenacious Oil.Cogs loosely assembled on FW body. They 
> have been used sparingly since I got them and  have performed flawlessly. 
> All cogs, FW bodies, spacers, threads,etc. in fine condition Metculously 
> cleaned and reassembled after use. Just have too many FW's to use them all.
>
> 1.13,14,15,16,17,18T: VGUC: $20 +USPS shipping
> 2.13,15,16,17,18,19T: VGUC: $20 +USPS shipping
> 3.13,14,15,17,19,21T: GUC: $20+ USPS shipping
> 4.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC:$20+USPS shipping
> 5.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC:$20+ USPS shipping
> 6.13,14,15,17,19,21T: VGUC $20 +USPS shipping (new13Tcog)
> 7.13,15,17,19,21,24T: GUC: $20 + USPS shipping
> 8.13,15,17,19,21,24T: GUc:$20 + USPS shipping
> 9.13,15,18,20,23,26T: EUC/VGUC: $20 + USPS shipping (pristine with some 
> new cogs)
>
> Also
> 1. 18T cog:New (other) bought not installed. $7 + $3 USPS shipping
> 2. 16T cog:New (other) bought not installed. $7 +$3 USPS shipping
> 3. 13T 1st position cog:used and cosmetically challenged, yet very 
> useable-finish flaked on a few tooth fronts
> $5 free USPS shipping
> Photos available. Thanks for your time and consideration. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

I've used a 120 fixed gear hub in a 130mm frame -- axle spacers will do the 
trick. Way back when I bought a wheelset from Sheldon with those spacers, 
and put them in an old Trek 330 frame.

Whether the chainline is "off" kind of depends on your ideal chainring/cog 
combination. Frames spaced for 130 hubs have wider chainstays, which can 
limit the size of the chainring that can be used while achieving good 
chainline. In my case, the largest gear I could use was a 40x15 -- anything 
bigger than a 40 tooth ring would hit the chainstay.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:49:32 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I am not home but I was hoping someone could help..
> I got a wheelset off here, I was told it came from the quickbeam complete 
> - it's suzue hubs laced to araya.
>
> the hub is 120mm spaced in the rear, right? Is it possible to make it 
> 130mm? I'd rather use it in a 130mm spaced frame (but does that mean 
> chainline will be off?)
>
>

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[RBW] Quickbeam wheelset

[Belopsky]

I am not home but I was hoping someone could help..
I got a wheelset off here, I was told it came from the quickbeam complete - 
it's suzue hubs laced to araya.

the hub is 120mm spaced in the rear, right? Is it possible to make it 
130mm? I'd rather use it in a 130mm spaced frame (but does that mean 
chainline will be off?)

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Richard Rios]

I have had both and will join the chorus of grip kings are not that grippy 
especially when wet. I still have a pair of the RMX and find them to be a great 
all around pedal. Not to grippy not to slippy for everyday use. I've used DMR 
V8s which I believe are basically the same as the wellgos mentioned. They are 
nice but the spikes will stick your shins pretty bad if you happen to slip 
while in shorts which is why for more causual riding I like the RMX.

best,
Richard

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Philip Kim]

something to note, the grip kings can be slippery when wet, unless you want 
to drill in pins.



On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Pedal Choices

[Garth]

Wellgo pedals are made in Taiwan as if that matters.  

The MG-1 is a fine pedal, I have multiple pairs that I used in the past. The 
bearings are one cartridge on the end, and one long "DU bushing" aka 
plastic/nylon of some sort in the other end. These bushing things are common in 
many such pedals. 

Like many pedals these days, do open them and grease well inside. Don't be 
saddened by some lateral play if it develops, just make sure the bearing nut is 
snug and keep going.  

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[Doug H.]

I don't think the Clems will come with pedals this time

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 7:09:31 AM UTC-5, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> I don't know what they're sending as "stock" on the Clem these days but 
> the plastic/nylon VP 535 that they used to spec is pretty hard to beat -- 
> unless one has something against plastic/nylon bodies. I'd certainly give 
> them a spin (no pun intended) before shelling out for something else.
>
> On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
>> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
>> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
>> Thanks!
>
>

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[RBW] Quick FS: WTB Riddler 700x45

[Conway Bennett]

I got the wrong tires shipped to me so I wanted to see if anyone here wanted 
them.  Like the post says except they are the black wall version.  $75 shipped 
conus for a new pair in the box.  

Fair winds, 

Captain Conway
Chicago 

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[RBW] Re: Pedal Choices

[jeffrey kane]

I don't know what they're sending as "stock" on the Clem these days but the 
plastic/nylon VP 535 that they used to spec is pretty hard to beat -- 
unless one has something against plastic/nylon bodies. I'd certainly give 
them a spin (no pun intended) before shelling out for something else.

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 8:40:54 PM UTC-5, Doug H. wrote:
>
> I’m looking to complete my soon to be arriving Clem Smith H bicycle. I’d 
> like to ask for opinions on the MKS RMX Sneaker pedals and the MKS Grip 
> King pedals. Have any of you tried either or both? Any thoughts welcome. 
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Pedal Choices

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

I have a couple pairs of GKs and really like them... but I have a long and 
narrow(15/16size) foot so maybe that has something to do with it.  I also find 
myself often sliding foot forward like Deacon Patrick already suggested and 
this places the narrow middle part of the pedal more in line with the middle of 
the foot, with ball of my foot near the edge of the front grip section.  As 
others have noted, they are not as grippy as you’d expect and would benefit 
from the spike retrofit if you plan to take them off-road a lot or if your 
footwear of choice just doesn’t play well with them, especially in wet.  For 
more trail oriented riding I’m using VP-001 “thin gripsters” and these are much 
gripper with spikes and wider, more square body.  

Trying a pair of RMX was on the to do list for a future build but then the bike 
budget dried up and I disassembled a couple other builds and have a surplus of 
pedals again.

The stock pedals that came on previous Clem completes are also great.  Not sure 
model name but they are cheaper VPs and essentially a nylon, reflectored 
version of the thin gripsters.  Or think a thinner, spikier, nylon/plastic RMX.

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Re: [RBW] "Winter" clothing help

[Deacon Patrick]

Tim said, “However, I've found that I sweat too much to use merino wool as a 
base layer; it eventually ends up clammy and cold against my skin.”
Bill in Roswell said “there is a temp point for me where the efficiency of 
synthetics at moving moisture causes "chill off", i.e. cooling too fast.”

Fishnet, lads. Fishnet. Then, what your insulative layer is no longer matters. 
To test this out I rode with my insulative layer as a heavy cotton flannel 
straight from the wringer and slightly dripping wet still at -10˚F, sandwiched 
between fishnet base layer and ventile jacket for over an hour. Though not 
toasty warm, it worked a charm, though the sleeves near the wrist froze, I was 
only slightly chilled. After that, I had no problem riding with cotton as my 
insulative layer, because no matter how much I sweat, it’ll still be dryer than 
that. Grin. Wiggy’s version costs less (and is the one I did the extreme test 
with), but feels like wearing a nylon fishing net. The merino wool Brynje 
version costs more but feels much better next to the skin. May be overkill for 
GA though?

With abandon,
Patrick

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