[RBW] Re: PSA Ram on Ebay

[Kieran J]

Pretty sure that's a 68cm. Paging all those that offered to buy mine - 
now's your chance! Plenty of listers in that area, someone would facilitate 
I'm sure. Maybe I'll buy it ...

KJ


On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 11:57:36 AM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> If someone is in Seattle this could be a nice find. Remember a blue Ram 
> just went for over $2000.  Looks like a 62?  Rambouillet By Rivendell 
> Bicycle Works Bike Frame RB0952 C-T 27" Local P/U Only 
> https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401552870412
>  
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Randonneuring on Rivendells

[Lum Gim Fong]

I did a 200k, centuries, and permanents on my Bleriot.
Ed Felker did PBP on his.
I have read of others who did Brevets on Rivendells.

Paul Donaldson(?) AKA WGR(?) World's Greatest Randonneur did brevets on his 
Sam Hillborne. Just google Worlds Greatest Randonneur and you will see the 
funny write up about his bike.

So I think comfort, reliability, and function is key. Put on it what you 
need to be comfy and cozy for any given ride.

But I have read/seen people doing brevet/s on many different types of bikes 
and violating all sorts of alleged dictums by alleged experts.
I think Clayton is right you have to ride and see what you need.

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Re: [RBW] FS - Nitto Handlebars, Thompson Seatpost

[Tony DeFilippo]

Still available;

48cm Heat Treated Nitto Noodle - $45
52cm Nitto RM-014 Dirt Drops - $45 (no red ribbon, not sure if they are HT or 
not)

Thompson Zero Setback 27.2mm Seatpost, Black- $40
Thompson Setback 27.2mm seatpost, silver - $40

Shipping will be around an additional $15 for any of these.

Tony

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[RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

[adam leibow]

hugh, i did the same exact thing when choosing my canti sam size. roman has 
the same-ish pbh as me and rides a 55 sam, so i test rode the 55 demo (and 
ive ridden his 55 w drops before), but it just felt small. i knew i wanted 
the 58 fit, & i'm glad i trusted my gut, esp. with sweep back bars. feels 
good




On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 8:05:09 AM UTC-7, Hugh Flynn wrote:
>
> It all started with a 55 Appaloosa which, with my 75.5 cm saddle height 
> was the right fit for me by the numbers on the Riv sizing charts. I built 
> it up as a for touring with Noodle bars and it was a blast to ride over the 
> mixed terrain rides I favor, and was comfortable for miles upon miles. 
>
> The problem? If *felt* small. I don’t mean that it was too small (saddle 
> height and reach to bars was the same as on my other bikes), it just felt 
> small. With the sloping tube it felt like the top tube was too far away and 
> with the 71 degree headtube, the steerer felt too close (needed a 120mm 
> stem to get the reach right). Something about the overall visual ballance 
> of it all wasn’t quite right for me. It sounds frivolous when I say it out 
> loud, but it is what it is man. I’m fussy.
>
> So, a month or so after building up the 55, I ordered a 58. Even by Riv 
> sizing recommendations my frame is too big, but it all feels, looks, and 
> rides perfectly   for me now. 
>
> Now I have to decide whether to sell or rebuild the 55 with a set of 
> bullmoose bars and fatter knobbies (which I think would be massively fun).
>
> Haven’t added racks and such, but I’ll get around to that.
>
>
>
> Hugh “big bike” Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
> -- 
> Hugh Flynn
> Newburyport, MA
>

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[RBW] Randonneuring on Rivendells

[Clayton.sf]

Done brevets on my Quickbeam in various configurations. basket, bags, fixed and 
SS. In my experience comfort is the most important thing since time limits are 
generous.  The catch is that comfortable varies quite a bit from 3 to 300 
miles. Full upright is nice for a few miles, but will be very uncomfortable for 
120 miles for me. Both battery and dybamo lights work.

Experimentation is key and what works for me will maybe not work for the next 
person. In the end you won't know what works for a 300k unless you do a 300k. 
Best advice is to just start and see how it goes. worst case scenario you will 
DNF, so what? You will learn something anyway.

Clayton Scott
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: New shoes (and rims) for the Sam Hillborne

[Joe Bernard]

Ooh, I didn't catch the different-colored tensioners on the Racers. Sweet!

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[RBW] Randonneuring on Rivendells

[lambbo]

How many people here are active randonneurs and ride their Rivendells? 
 What is your set-up? Are your priorities fenders or tire size? Do you run 
battery or dynamo?  What size bag do you carry if you have one? Does 
anything change from 200K to 600 or 1200K on your rig?  Pictures 
appreciated (because...it's an addiction). 

My Roadini is most comfortable on Jack Browns but I missed a 300K because I 
didn't want to ride 12 hours in heavy rain without them. Now I have 28s and 
fenders, which is fine but not the same cushion on the longer rides (I'll 
survive). I have dynamo on my Cheviot and love it for commuting, but am 
hesitant to invest just for 4 rides a year when batteries work fine. Small 
Saddle-Sack.  I love my setup, I'm really just curious what other people 
are doing with their Rivendells on Brevets. 


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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Bill Schairer]

My wife and I have used a steripen in Kenya, Nepal, and Cambodia, seemingly 
with success.  For my ride on the GDMBR, I am going to go with a Grayl water 
purifier bottle 
(https://www.rei.com/product/898758/grayl-ultralight-water-purifier-bottle). 
Supposedly screens out 99.9% of virus and bacteria as well as just stuff.  
It was highly recommended to me by someone who used one on a two week trek in 
Nepal.  His disdain for batteries kept him from using Steripens.  I must say, 
it all seems like witchcraft to me.  I’ll take my leftover supply of traveler’s 
antibiotics as well.

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[MartyG]

Smoothest tires I’ve ever ridden on pavement or dirt. Very low noise. I have 
not ridden in rain/mud yet. Wheels are Rich-built using Velocity Dyad rims. 36 
front and rear. 

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Re: [RBW] 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

['Beaverton Bob' via RBW Owners Bunch]

If finances allow, I will also echo having two different COMPLETE bikes. 

The challenge is making sure you are NOT building the same bike again. I 
know that sounds confusing, but how many of us have two "different" bikes 
that both have the same cockpit, same saddle, even the same wheelset.

Making one MORE paved road and one MORE unpaved road would be a starting 
point. And the different frame size will be ideal for that.

Ride Safely,
Beaverton "My Wife Would Be Happy IF I Only Had Two Bikes" Bob

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Deacon Patrick]

Ha, Bob! As some of my trips will attest to, cutting down is easy. Keeping only 
what is essential ... that’s the tricky bit. Grin.

On this trip, the Office of Readings was on the “already but not yet” nature of 
faith and dawn ... I am always humbled by how contempory prayers can be. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick  

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[Tully Lanter]

Nice build - I dig the clean, black-and-silver look with the single-speed 
simplicity. How do you find the G-Ones on pavement? 

On Sunday, June 17, 2018 at 5:06:47 AM UTC-7, MartyG wrote:
>
> Starting a new thread to document the travels of my silver step-through. 
> Set up now as a single. White eccentric hub out back with an 18t Shimano 
> freewheel. TA Zephyr double up front with a 36t ring and an All City guard. 
> (Thanks to Gravel & Grind's yard sale for both of those!)  Lowered the 
> Bosco Bullmoose all the way, and they feel just right at that level. Still 
> needs grips, but I took it our for an early Father's Day ride and it was so 
> nice on our local rail trail. 
>
>
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Antelope Pass 700 x 55: the fat tire arms race continues

[Robert Barr]

Brynnar, We could see how they fit on a Hunqapillar… since they are just
sitting around!

On Sat, Jun 16, 2018 at 4:55 PM, ctifusion  wrote:

> I need to check how to post pictures but these fit easily on the new
> Atlantis. Plenty of clearance on each side of the chainstays. And that's
> the tightest spot.
>
> On Velocity Atlas rims. I'd bet it will also be fine on wider rims.
>
> Got the wrong stem and decided I needed a zero setback seatpost to get the
> reach I want, so the build is on hold.
>
> Brynnar
> Indy
>
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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[MartyG]

Trust me, this bike will see few hills. It’s really built for the NCR trail 
that runs though MD and PA. Long shallow grades I can handle. Lock in a cadence 
and roll on. I really enjoy the simplicity, the silence and zen of a one gear 
bike. I’m in no hurry. The G-One Schwalbe’s are perfect for the dense-packed 
gravel trail. 

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[Deacon Patrick]

Wow Bob! How do you only push up hill 40% of the time? Even with a geared bike, 
I went uphill half the time. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: New shoes (and rims) for the Sam Hillborne

['Beaverton Bob' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Nice bike/build. I like how flared the handlebars are, and the subtle color 
touches on the Paul brakes. As a proud Sam H owner myself, I know how 
versatile they can be. 

I, too, started with handlebars 2 inches above my saddle. Then, on Rivelo's 
2nd Anniversary Ride (2017), a gentleman suggested I RAISE my seatpost 3 
inches higher, and then lower it by 1/2 an inch a week to find the sweet 
spot. I finally found it at 2.25 inches higher (still about level with my 
handlebars), and it has been at that height since. By the way, the 
gentleman's initials were GP. I honestly would not have tried a higher 
seatpost, but am very glad I did.

Ride Safely,
Beaverton "Still Riding My Saddle Level To Handlebarse" Bob

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[RBW] Re: New Dia Compe 610 Centerpull Brakes?

[lconley]

Easily swapped out for the standard style bolt. The rear appears to be 
intended for recessed mounting - not easy to find standard style bolts for 
that! 750s come with nutted rear, recessed front. Both of these are 
intended for front mounting on my bikes. One on my Rosco Bubbe V1 SS with 
the as supplied recessed bolt - no fenders. The other will be installed on 
the front of my Betty Foy with a standard front recessed mounting bolt and 
daruma bolt for fender mounting (rear brake is a sidepull). I will probably 
take the rear recessed mounting supplied with the 610 and install it on the 
750 centerpull on the back of the Rosco Bubbe. They will all get spherical 
mounted brake pads, most likely Tektros that I already have..

Laing
Cocoa, FL

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 4:30:35 PM UTC-4, Eamon Nordquist wrote:

> Weird - that looks like it would preclude the use of a Sheldon nut for 
> easy fender mounting.
>
> Eamon 
> Seattle 
>

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

['Beaverton Bob' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Bike looks great! 

Glad you at least have the legs for a SS, no matter what chainring you use. 

I had one years ago, albeit a hardtail, but my legs were not made for it. 
Was pushing uphill 40% of the time. Not fun.

Ride Safely,
Beaverton "Don't Have A Single Speed Anymore" Bob

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[RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I e-mailed Jeff a year or two ago and asked if he had a unicrown fork 
planned for what was then his "Plus" bike and I think the answer was a 
negative.  Now that he has introduced a unicrown fork for the short and 
long models, I really want the LWB version.   Also, now that he has a riser 
version of his H Loop Bar, I ordered the 710mm version with clear grips 
this weekend.  They will go on my Karate Monkey and I'm really hopeful that 
I will like them.  I've been curious for years and a brief test ride on a 
new Ogre with the Moloko bar, which is similar to the Jones H-Bar, 
convinced me that there's a good chance I'll like the H-Bar.  




On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 11:34:09 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I like the discussion here and a bit off topic but not terribly so
> http://www.jonesbikes.com/jones-steel-plus-lwb-with-unicrown-fork/
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[masmojo]

I've got 2.2" Race Kings on my Ogre and they are fine; 2.5 or better would be 
nice, but you almost hafta go tubeless at that point or the whole mess starts 
getting pretty heavy. Tubeless is not necessary for Plus or Fat, but IMHO makes 
it tolerable and once you go tubeless you can run lower pressures which, just 
compounds the advantage.
Thing is once you go tubeless you've brought yourself right back round to disk 
brake rims. It really is a vicious circle,  but I say "OK", no sense in 
fighting it; what's to be gained!?

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

Aha! Noted. Will lower sights and take aim at 4".

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 1:43 PM, lconley  wrote:

> The 6" was un-rideable with the 3.8" tires. Surly Marge Lite rims if that
> makes any difference.
>
> Laing
>
> .
>
>
> On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 3:35:07 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> 6", and rideable with ~4" tires; I'll keep that data point in mind.
>> Fortunately for me, the bosque trails don't see too much 6" deep sand; 4"
>> yes, 6" no. So I'll stick to 700C X~60 for now. But good to know that, in
>> the forthcoming sand apocalypse, 3.8" Black Floyds would keep one spinning,
>> sand and pavement.
>>
>> Patrick "63 -- first Eisenhower administration" Moore
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Why not a suspension-corrected fork/frame?

[Philip Williamson]

My friend already had a very hard time (a couple years ago) getting a 
replacement fork for his Niner Sir9(?) that was only a couple years old. 
The steerer standard had changed. I passed on buying a Kona Unit X because 
the (rigid) disc fork was 100mm, not 110, and I could see that if I had to 
replace it in five years, I'd need to buy a new wheel, too. Surly designs 
weird work-arounds for backwards compatibility, but you can't future-proof 
anything in the bike industry. 

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 4:16:31 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> My first disc brake bike, which was state of the art when I got it, uses a 
> 22mm Hayes caliper mounting standard.  Try and find something that fits. 
>  My modern, once-modern replacement suspension fork has ISS caliper 
> mounting tabs.  All new forks use post mounts, so when it wears out, I'll 
> be forced to get new brakes too?  That's a rhetorical question, of course, 
> because the new fork would have a tapered steerer that wouldn't fit my 1 
> 1/8" headtube.  And, even if it did, it would likely be intended for a 
> thru-axle 110 boost hub standard, so I'd need to rebuild my wheel anyway. 
>  Which is probably a good thing, because then i could ditch the old-school 
> 6 bolt rotor mounting standard for the new and improved centerlock 
> standard.  This year, that is.

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[RBW] Re: New Dia Compe 610 Centerpull Brakes?

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Weird - that looks like it would preclude the use of a Sheldon nut for easy 
fender mounting.

Eamon 
Seattle 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[lconley]

The 6" was un-rideable with the 3.8" tires. Surly Marge Lite rims if that 
makes any difference.

Laing

.


On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 3:35:07 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

> 6", and rideable with ~4" tires; I'll keep that data point in mind. 
> Fortunately for me, the bosque trails don't see too much 6" deep sand; 4" 
> yes, 6" no. So I'll stick to 700C X~60 for now. But good to know that, in 
> the forthcoming sand apocalypse, 3.8" Black Floyds would keep one spinning, 
> sand and pavement.
>
> Patrick "63 -- first Eisenhower administration" Moore
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

6", and rideable with ~4" tires; I'll keep that data point in mind.
Fortunately for me, the bosque trails don't see too much 6" deep sand; 4"
yes, 6" no. So I'll stick to 700C X~60 for now. But good to know that, in
the forthcoming sand apocalypse, 3.8" Black Floyds would keep one spinning,
sand and pavement.

Patrick "63 -- first Eisenhower administration" Moore

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 1:03 PM, lconley  wrote:

> The sand where I got in trouble was probably around 6" deep. This is
> simple white sand, the stuff that makes up most of Florida. It was a rails
> to trails ride, after they lifted the rails and rock, but before they
> installed the trail. The sand varied in depth and there were a couple of
> places where it just got too deep to steer. It made me wonder if I should
> have had a knobby on the rear. It was the kind of sand that if you were on
> a motorcycle, as long as you were on the throttle you were OK - let off or
> brake and you were going down. The legs just didn't make enough power to
> retain steering control. The sand on limerock roads is usually in the 1 to
> 3 inch range and as long as you can steer fairly straight and keep
> pedaling, you are OK. Down hills on the sand was downright scary -
> you don't want to brake but you don't really want to go any faster (20 - 30
> mph?) either.
>
> I am 62 so geriatric has-been is probably most appropriate. Memory and
> sand depth estimating abilities may be questionable also.
>
> Laing
>
>
>
> On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 2:35:19 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Laing: How deep is this sand you are describing? How deep can the sand be
>> that 3.8 Black Floyds handle easily, meaning without extreme exertion and
>> bottomed-out gears? Is it much deeper than 3"?
>>
>> I live almost literally within spitting distance of the Rio Grande. The
>> *bosque* -- the belt of cottonwoods and shrubs on either side of the
>> river in the midst of the otherwise typical regional high desert scrubland
>> -- extends for about a mile on either side of the river, actual width
>> depending on the local pattern of the regional *acequia* irrigation
>> ditch network, dating from the late 16th century (at least for the
>> Hispanos), which draws water from the river.
>>
>> So, the soil throughout this belt of green is essentially river silt;
>> until a couple of generations ago, when "they" dammed and diverted it, the
>> river would regularly flood, and big "jetty jacks" still litter the bosque
>> woodland. Thus the trails I ride are composed of fine, silty sand, and the
>> degree of compaction and firmness depends greatly on moisture content;
>> being high desert, this content is often very low, so that the soil gets
>> dry and loose and churned up, and in spots can be 4" deep. (Locally sourced
>> horse shit can add another 1/2".)
>>
>> I love riding in this environment. So far, the optimum bosque cycling
>> compromise -- juggling my preference for typical old fashioned road bike
>> geometry; drop bars; taller wheels for soft and rough surfaces; good
>> pavement rolling for at least 1/3 of mileage on asphalt with thin, supple,
>> and nice-rolling tires; the sand described; and manageable Q -- has left me
>> with a bike that can take 700C X 60s and fenders, and also 584 X 75s. The
>> Matthews has 700C C X 61 mm 1 lb/each Big Ones at ~18-23 psi, tubeless, and
>> so far, after riding many other combinations in this environment, this is
>> by far the best compromise.
>>
>> Your description of riding sand on ~4" tires, and especially your
>> description of the Black Floyds rolling along nicely on pavement, intrigues
>> me. Perhaps I need to shift the "compromise line" a few riding units toward
>> shorter/fatter ...? So: how deep can the sand be that your Black Floyds
>> handle without pain? And when you speak of draughting the local CF club:
>> are you speaking as a geriatric has-been, or as a youthful 40-something?
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 11:56 AM, lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> Fatbikes rule in the sand. I have been on a few group rides on my cheap
>>> fat bike with expensive tires (SE Bikes F...@e - 26x3.8 Surly Black
>>> Floyds - basically slicks) and I rode away from the much younger, much
>>> lighter, much, much better condition riders on expensive full suspension
>>> carbon fiber bikes with narrower tires when on the sand. They were in the
>>> sand, I was on top of the sand. Same thing a couple years ago with two of
>>> my brothers in law on some sandy back roads in North Carolina. They wanted
>>> to ride my cheap fatbike over their full suspension steeds, because it was
>>> a lot more fun and less effort. Yes, the handling is pretty strange for a
>>> few miles, but then you adapt and it feels normal. It is no a cure-all
>>> though - there is some sand that even the fat bike sinks into (with a fat
>>> rider). I have never ridden a mountain bike or a fat bike in actual
>>> mountains, just on back roads and trails in Florida, Georgia and North
>>> Carolina. On pavement, 

Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[lconley]

The sand where I got in trouble was probably around 6" deep. This is simple 
white sand, the stuff that makes up most of Florida. It was a rails to 
trails ride, after they lifted the rails and rock, but before they 
installed the trail. The sand varied in depth and there were a couple of 
places where it just got too deep to steer. It made me wonder if I should 
have had a knobby on the rear. It was the kind of sand that if you were on 
a motorcycle, as long as you were on the throttle you were OK - let off or 
brake and you were going down. The legs just didn't make enough power to 
retain steering control. The sand on limerock roads is usually in the 1 to 
3 inch range and as long as you can steer fairly straight and keep 
pedaling, you are OK. Down hills on the sand was downright scary - 
you don't want to brake but you don't really want to go any faster (20 - 30 
mph?) either.

I am 62 so geriatric has-been is probably most appropriate. Memory and sand 
depth estimating abilities may be questionable also.

Laing



On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 2:35:19 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

> Laing: How deep is this sand you are describing? How deep can the sand be 
> that 3.8 Black Floyds handle easily, meaning without extreme exertion and 
> bottomed-out gears? Is it much deeper than 3"?
>
> I live almost literally within spitting distance of the Rio Grande. The 
> *bosque* -- the belt of cottonwoods and shrubs on either side of the 
> river in the midst of the otherwise typical regional high desert scrubland 
> -- extends for about a mile on either side of the river, actual width 
> depending on the local pattern of the regional *acequia* irrigation ditch 
> network, dating from the late 16th century (at least for the Hispanos), 
> which draws water from the river. 
>
> So, the soil throughout this belt of green is essentially river silt; 
> until a couple of generations ago, when "they" dammed and diverted it, the 
> river would regularly flood, and big "jetty jacks" still litter the bosque 
> woodland. Thus the trails I ride are composed of fine, silty sand, and the 
> degree of compaction and firmness depends greatly on moisture content; 
> being high desert, this content is often very low, so that the soil gets 
> dry and loose and churned up, and in spots can be 4" deep. (Locally sourced 
> horse shit can add another 1/2".)
>
> I love riding in this environment. So far, the optimum bosque cycling 
> compromise -- juggling my preference for typical old fashioned road bike 
> geometry; drop bars; taller wheels for soft and rough surfaces; good 
> pavement rolling for at least 1/3 of mileage on asphalt with thin, supple, 
> and nice-rolling tires; the sand described; and manageable Q -- has left me 
> with a bike that can take 700C X 60s and fenders, and also 584 X 75s. The 
> Matthews has 700C C X 61 mm 1 lb/each Big Ones at ~18-23 psi, tubeless, and 
> so far, after riding many other combinations in this environment, this is 
> by far the best compromise. 
>
> Your description of riding sand on ~4" tires, and especially your 
> description of the Black Floyds rolling along nicely on pavement, intrigues 
> me. Perhaps I need to shift the "compromise line" a few riding units toward 
> shorter/fatter ...? So: how deep can the sand be that your Black Floyds 
> handle without pain? And when you speak of draughting the local CF club: 
> are you speaking as a geriatric has-been, or as a youthful 40-something?
>
> On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 11:56 AM, lconley > 
> wrote:
>
>> Fatbikes rule in the sand. I have been on a few group rides on my cheap 
>> fat bike with expensive tires (SE Bikes F...@e  - 26x3.8 
>> Surly Black Floyds - basically slicks) and I rode away from the much 
>> younger, much lighter, much, much better condition riders on expensive full 
>> suspension carbon fiber bikes with narrower tires when on the sand. They 
>> were in the sand, I was on top of the sand. Same thing a couple years ago 
>> with two of my brothers in law on some sandy back roads in North Carolina. 
>> They wanted to ride my cheap fatbike over their full suspension steeds, 
>> because it was a lot more fun and less effort. Yes, the handling is pretty 
>> strange for a few miles, but then you adapt and it feels normal. It is no a 
>> cure-all though - there is some sand that even the fat bike sinks into 
>> (with a fat rider). I have never ridden a mountain bike or a fat bike 
>> in actual mountains, just on back roads and trails in Florida, Georgia and 
>> North Carolina. On pavement, I can draft the local spandex and carbon bike 
>> club on the same bike - very little rolling friction at high pressure (20 - 
>> 25 psi), but the Black Floyds are big lightweight slicks compared to most 
>> fatbike tires.
>>
>> I am in the middle of reconfiguring my Bombadil from Bullmoose bars to 
>> Randonneur drops. It has 650b Atlas rims and I am going to see how big of a 
>> tire I can get under Honjo H-95 fenders.
>>
>> Laing
>> Cocoa, FL

Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

Laing: How deep is this sand you are describing? How deep can the sand be
that 3.8 Black Floyds handle easily, meaning without extreme exertion and
bottomed-out gears? Is it much deeper than 3"?

I live almost literally within spitting distance of the Rio Grande. The
*bosque* -- the belt of cottonwoods and shrubs on either side of the river
in the midst of the otherwise typical regional high desert scrubland --
extends for about a mile on either side of the river, actual width
depending on the local pattern of the regional *acequia* irrigation ditch
network, dating from the late 16th century (at least for the Hispanos),
which draws water from the river.

So, the soil throughout this belt of green is essentially river silt; until
a couple of generations ago, when "they" dammed and diverted it, the river
would regularly flood, and big "jetty jacks" still litter the bosque
woodland. Thus the trails I ride are composed of fine, silty sand, and the
degree of compaction and firmness depends greatly on moisture content;
being high desert, this content is often very low, so that the soil gets
dry and loose and churned up, and in spots can be 4" deep. (Locally sourced
horse shit can add another 1/2".)

I love riding in this environment. So far, the optimum bosque cycling
compromise -- juggling my preference for typical old fashioned road bike
geometry; drop bars; taller wheels for soft and rough surfaces; good
pavement rolling for at least 1/3 of mileage on asphalt with thin, supple,
and nice-rolling tires; the sand described; and manageable Q -- has left me
with a bike that can take 700C X 60s and fenders, and also 584 X 75s. The
Matthews has 700C C X 61 mm 1 lb/each Big Ones at ~18-23 psi, tubeless, and
so far, after riding many other combinations in this environment, this is
by far the best compromise.

Your description of riding sand on ~4" tires, and especially your
description of the Black Floyds rolling along nicely on pavement, intrigues
me. Perhaps I need to shift the "compromise line" a few riding units toward
shorter/fatter ...? So: how deep can the sand be that your Black Floyds
handle without pain? And when you speak of draughting the local CF club:
are you speaking as a geriatric has-been, or as a youthful 40-something?

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 11:56 AM, lconley  wrote:

> Fatbikes rule in the sand. I have been on a few group rides on my cheap
> fat bike with expensive tires (SE Bikes F@e - 26x3.8 Surly Black Floyds -
> basically slicks) and I rode away from the much younger, much lighter,
> much, much better condition riders on expensive full suspension carbon
> fiber bikes with narrower tires when on the sand. They were in the sand, I
> was on top of the sand. Same thing a couple years ago with two of my
> brothers in law on some sandy back roads in North Carolina. They wanted to
> ride my cheap fatbike over their full suspension steeds, because it was a
> lot more fun and less effort. Yes, the handling is pretty strange for a few
> miles, but then you adapt and it feels normal. It is no a cure-all though -
> there is some sand that even the fat bike sinks into (with a fat rider). I
> have never ridden a mountain bike or a fat bike in actual mountains, just
> on back roads and trails in Florida, Georgia and North Carolina. On
> pavement, I can draft the local spandex and carbon bike club on the same
> bike - very little rolling friction at high pressure (20 - 25 psi), but the
> Black Floyds are big lightweight slicks compared to most fatbike tires.
>
> I am in the middle of reconfiguring my Bombadil from Bullmoose bars to
> Randonneur drops. It has 650b Atlas rims and I am going to see how big of a
> tire I can get under Honjo H-95 fenders.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa, FL
>
> On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 1:07:40 PM UTC-4, Ryan M. wrote:
>
>> You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've
>> ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling
>> resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue
>> but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the
>> bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding
>> the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it
>> was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I
>> wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire
>> pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following
>> though, but they aren't for me.
>>
>> On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on
>> the rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the
>> gravel roads around me.
>>
>> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it
>>> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or,
>>> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really 

[RBW] Re: FS: Clearing out my stuff - Nitto, IRD, Dia Compe, PDW, VP, SRAM, Sunrace, Microshift, Wolftooth

[phil k]

Another update
 

> *Update on what is left:*
>
> *Shifters & Brake Stuff*
>
> Dia-Compe 11s Road & 10s Dynasys downtube friction shifters 
> ,
>  
> brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $75 shipped
>
> IRD Ratchet Brake Lever (pair) 
> , brand new (actual pic 
> ) - 
> $90 shipped
>
> *Handlebar & Stem Stuff*
>
> Gilles Berthoud bar end, road bars, cork, pair 
>  - 
> $10 shipped
>
> Nitto Pearl quill stem 26.0, 70mm reach 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Nitto Tallux 25.4, 90mm reach 
>  - 
> $50 shipped
>
> PDW Whiskey grips, brown, pair 
> , 
> new - $50 shipped
>
>
> *Drivetrain Stuff*
>
> Microshift R10 short cage 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
> Sunrace 11-40 10 speed wide cassette 
>  - 
> $20 shipped
>
>
> *Pedal & Misc*
>
> VP Vice Pedal, black, pair 
>  - 
> $40 shipped
>
> Topeak Road pump, 50cm long 
>  - 
> $15 shipped
>
> Ruthworks Leather Straps, 17cm 
> , 28cm 
> , 38cm 
> , 
> sold together - $15 shipped
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

['Beaverton Bob' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Deacon Patrick,

Appreciate the list and write-up. 

You are an inspiration to actively stripping down to what is essential. I 
try to teach that to our kids when we are hiking/camping. 

I definitely understand lauds, vespers, and the rosary too.

Thank You,
Beaverton "I Need To Do Some Bikepacking" Bob

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[iamkeith]

I'll take the opposite argument, though you partly made it yourself:  For 
fatter tires to work well, the air pressure is *extremely* critical, and 
even minute differences make a huge difference.   I adjust for every ride 
but, to me, that's still less hassle than dealing with negative and 
positive air pressure, rebound settings, lockout valving and maintenance on 
a suspension fork though.  

But equally important are geometry, tire selection, and tire-to-rim-width 
selection!

I have a half dozen or more mountain bikes in the garage, and the ONLY one 
i ever want to ride on any kind of technical or off road trail these days 
is my Jones with a 3" rear tire and a 4.8" front tire.  There's nothing 
weird about the handling at all, on soft surfaces.  It took me trying two 
front rims, three rear tires and four front tires to find the combination 
that worked perfectly though.  Some front tires had the worst self-steer 
characteristics that I've ever felt, and some just weren't big enough 
volume. I think the low trail fork, compensating for the added pneumatic 
trail of the fat tire, is a big difference.   Similar differences with 
rolling resistance.  Still, I do understand your experience because I have 
another full fat bike that I'm forced to ride 7 months a year.  I kind of 
hate it actually, but it gets me outside in the winter.

No fat tire is great on pavement, but that's not an issue where I live.  On 
the other hand - and this may again be a function of my trails and my 
weight, but 2.8" @ 14psi seems to be the magic numbers below which 
traction, comfort and pinch flats all suffer.   I would NEVER, ever again 
buy a mountain bike that didn't give me the option of at least 3".  
(Rivendell excepted - but that's a bit different and I'm sort of 
anticipating an all-rounder that i'm unlikely to abuse the same way as 
another mountain bike.)  Meanwhile the other bikes I have my eye on and am 
most likes to actually buy are a Kona Wozo for a hardtail and a Lenz 
Fattilac for a full-suspension.  Other than XC speed - which I care nothing 
about - there's just zero advantage to a tire less than 2.8" for me and for 
my kind of riding.  (which i should point out again is NOT reckless, 
trail-shredding, bro-bra stuff.)

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 11:07:40 AM UTC-6, Ryan M. wrote:
>
> You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've 
> ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling 
> resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue 
> but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the 
> bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding 
> the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it 
> was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I 
> wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire 
> pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following 
> though, but they aren't for me. 
>
> On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the 
> rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the 
> gravel roads around me. 
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it 
>> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or, 
>> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a 
>> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at 
>> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just 
>> isn't fat enough.
>>
>> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare 
>> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Deacon Patrick]

Bob, spot on! The squeeze bag filter is my plan for if I ever need physical 
filtration on a semi-regular basis. The Steripen works on bacteria and virus, 
if I understand correctly.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compass Antelope Pass 700 x 55: the fat tire arms race continues

[Patrick Moore]

Jon: how do the APs feel compared to the Big Ones -- did you ride dirt as
well as pavement? I find that the BOs roll very well; I'd guess that they
seem to have no more rolling resistance tubeless, on pavement, 18-23 psi,
than 35 mm Kojaks with tubes at road pressures. Do the APs feel as good? (I
realize that I have no measurements, thus "feel".)

55 mm on the Semis, which are listed as 30 mm wide, so I'd guess that the
APs would measure much the same on my Velocity Blunt SS's, at 35 mm wide.
My Big Ones measure 61 mm. Hmm.

I worried before buying Big Ones, 8 or 10 months before the AP
announcement, because I wanted to buy a Compass version, but I rather think
that the BOs meet my needs better, slightly, than the APs.

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 6:28 AM, Jon BALER  wrote:

> I tried out the new Antelope Pass tires this weekend on my VO Piolet.  I
> did a 85 mile ride from Ellicott City, MD to Washington DC and back on
> roads and paved trails.   Ride quality and speed were great as expected.
>
> I have ridden the Schwalbe Big Ones (light version?) for a while, so can
> offer some comparisons.  The Compass tires definitely have a thicker center
> tread section than Schwalble, and have supple sidewalls as expected.  This
> should give the Compass better flat protection.  On my older Salsa Semi
> 29er rims, width was just under 55 mm on initial installation with tubes
> and 30 psi.   The tubeless bead is quite a stout, and initial installation
> took some muscle.
>
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 4:55:19 PM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>>
>> I need to check how to post pictures but these fit easily on the new
>> Atlantis. Plenty of clearance on each side of the chainstays. And that's
>> the tightest spot.
>>
>> On Velocity Atlas rims. I'd bet it will also be fine on wider rims.
>>
>> Got the wrong stem and decided I needed a zero setback seatpost to get
>> the reach I want, so the build is on hold.
>>
>> Brynnar
>> Indy
>>
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-- 
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http://www.resumespecialties.com/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
**
**
*Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[lconley]

Fatbikes rule in the sand. I have been on a few group rides on my cheap fat 
bike with expensive tires (SE Bikes F@e - 26x3.8 Surly Black Floyds - 
basically slicks) and I rode away from the much younger, much lighter, 
much, much better condition riders on expensive full suspension carbon 
fiber bikes with narrower tires when on the sand. They were in the sand, I 
was on top of the sand. Same thing a couple years ago with two of my 
brothers in law on some sandy back roads in North Carolina. They wanted to 
ride my cheap fatbike over their full suspension steeds, because it was a 
lot more fun and less effort. Yes, the handling is pretty strange for a few 
miles, but then you adapt and it feels normal. It is no a cure-all though - 
there is some sand that even the fat bike sinks into (with a fat rider). I 
have never ridden a mountain bike or a fat bike in actual mountains, just 
on back roads and trails in Florida, Georgia and North Carolina. On 
pavement, I can draft the local spandex and carbon bike club on the same 
bike - very little rolling friction at high pressure (20 - 25 psi), but the 
Black Floyds are big lightweight slicks compared to most fatbike tires.

I am in the middle of reconfiguring my Bombadil from Bullmoose bars to 
Randonneur drops. It has 650b Atlas rims and I am going to see how big of a 
tire I can get under Honjo H-95 fenders.

Laing
Cocoa, FL

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 1:07:40 PM UTC-4, Ryan M. wrote:

> You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've 
> ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling 
> resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue 
> but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the 
> bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding 
> the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it 
> was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I 
> wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire 
> pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following 
> though, but they aren't for me. 
>
> On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the 
> rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the 
> gravel roads around me. 
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it 
>> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or, 
>> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a 
>> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at 
>> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just 
>> isn't fat enough.
>>
>> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare 
>> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Bob K.]

Patrick,

The Steripen looks cool. You could throw a Sawyer Squeeze in with that to take 
care of any physical debris in the water. It takes up very little space and 
weighs next to nothing. Only downside is it doesn’t work against viruses—but 
maybe your pen does that—so it’s not a standalone solution for a viral 
apocalypse. :)

Bob

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Patrick Moore]

Ryan: That's interesting information. I have to confess that, when I
suggested 3" 650B, my suggestion was not based on personal experience, just
extrapolation from such experience as I've had in comparing 60-65 mm tires
in the 559 and 622 sizes (again, the taller ones work better in sand than
the shorter ones with same tires and pressures; and that, in fact, the
bigger tires seem to smooth out washboard and such roughness at a higher
pressure as the smaller tires at lower pressures; say, 21-23 psi 622 X 60
feels like 16-18 psi 559 X 60).

My comment was based on the thought that, if a 29" X 60mm tire (ie, 622X60
- ~750 mm diameter) works well, than a 29" X 80mm tire (ie, 584 X 80 = ~750
mm diameter) might do even better in soft and bumpy conditions, pressures
adjusted appropriately. But apparently there are other matters to consider.

Related tangent: Once again, I find that sand in the 1" to 3" range is
quite rideable with 622 X 60s at sub 20 psi. Now, this means longer
stretches of 1" and shorter stretches of 3", because 3" requires work and
gearing down; it's the depth limit for such wheels, at least for my
strength and my tolerance for work. But I daresay that 584 X 80 at sub 15
would handle 3" sand better -- am I right?

More than 3", or with more than several hundred feet of 3" sand, I get off
and walk with my wheels, but I wonder if 584 X 80 would handle this better.
For the record, the Matthews will (I think) take 584 X 80; at least, it
will take 584 X 75.

On Mon, Jun 18, 2018 at 11:07 AM, Ryan M. 
wrote:

> You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've
> ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling
> resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue
> but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the
> bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding
> the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it
> was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I
> wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire
> pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following
> though, but they aren't for me.
>
> On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the
> rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the
> gravel roads around me.
>
> On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it
>> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or,
>> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a
>> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at
>> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just
>> isn't fat enough.
>>
>> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare
>> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[Ryan M.]

You aren't specifically asking about dedicated mtb fatbikes, but I've 
ridden a fat bike in snow, sand, and dirt and can say that the rolling 
resistance is enough to take notice; the plus size (3" is still an issue 
but not as bad). I honestly did not like it, and did not like the way the 
bike decided to turn when it dang well wanted. I really didn't like riding 
the fat bike on twisty single track as the bike just behaved weirdly and it 
was something I was not used to. It seemed to just not want to turn when I 
wanted it to and then moments later it would. Odd. Plus, exact tire 
pressure was hugely important. The bikes definitely have their following 
though, but they aren't for me. 

On my mtbs I usually run 2.3 or 2.4 (29'ers) on the fronts and 2.2s on the 
rear and the combination works great on the single track I ride and the 
gravel roads around me. 

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 1:53:28 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> My personal suggestion for any new Rivendell mountain bike is that it 
> accommodate 3" wide 650B tires, or at least, 3" wide 26" (559) tires. Or, 
> that it be built for 65 mm 700C tires. Fat and tall really does make a 
> difference on soft surfaces, and on high-frequency, low-amplitude bumps (at 
> least, if you keep the tire at appropriately low pressures). 2 inches just 
> isn't fat enough.
>
> Aside: Curious: has anyone here had the opportunity to personally compare 
> 584 X 70 with 622 X 60 in sand?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[iamkeith]

I am guessing as much or more than anybody of course, but I'd be surprised 
if they were NOT all going to be 650b.   Especially if, as we're hoping, 
there's a new rim involved.   More sizes would cost more and a huge part of 
the popularity of the 650b size, at least for other manufacturers, is that 
it's  a happy medium that can work with a bigger range of rider / frame 
sizes.  

It's also pretty ironic to think that the remainder of the bike industry 
has shifted their mountain bikes almost entirely toward 650b+, and that 
Rivendell hasn't - when they were the ones responsible for re-popularizing 
the wheel size in the first place,  and when they were the first to use it 
commercially on a mountain bike!   There would be zero shame in them doing 
it now.  To the contrary, it would seem to be the most logical thing in the 
world.   The plus format has happened since they started things, but two 
nice things about it are: 1) that you can vary the overall wheel diameter 
meaningfully by changing the tire size, to proportionally tailor to rider 
size; and  2)  It has once again made rigid, non-suspension bikes viable 
and marketable to more of the population. Both are about as Rivish as you 
can get.

All that said, remember that we really don't know if ANY of our guesses are 
correct - Including whether it will be lugged, what the frame sizes and 
wheel sizes will be, or if it will be have plus size clearance at all.  
 All we really know is that it will be made in Taiwan and that it will have 
rim brakes.   If one of those fully-lugged, US-made web specials fit me, if 
I could afford it, and if it had a bigger-than-26 wheel, I'd be hard 
pressed not to snap it up as a known entity that I've always wanted.   They 
take a 2.5" tire which is probably a lot more adequate for someone your 
size than mine.  And woolly mammoth...!

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 10:08:29 AM UTC-6, masmojo wrote:
>
> "Masmojo: Or you could snap up one of those demos on the Specials page. If 
> they had a 48 or 52 I would probably own it now."
>
> I certainly saw those & I eas tempted, but the 53 is just a smidge too big 
> for me. I certainly was trying to talk myself into it, but with a trip to 
> Cali. Coming up & this new "mountain bike" I figured discretion was in 
> order.
>
> Maybe we could nail down what things we KNOW this new bike will probably 
> gave? Recent experiences indicate frame specific wheel sizes; I couldn't 
> imagine deviating from that, unless the general esthetic/ function couldn't 
> be maintained across 26", 650B & 29er. Currently, all sizes have plus size 
> options available so maybe the new bike will be Plused!? On a 
> non-suspension bike it makes a lot of sense,  but that doesn't really 
> guarantee anything.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Deacon Patrick]

I use the Adventurer: https://www.steripen.com/adventurer-opti/

With abandon,
Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Kit

[Deacon Patrick]

Lum, I missed your water question. I carry as part of my day saddlebag a 
Steripen, so refill at water sources along the way. Great for mountain streams, 
less great for lower down cattle contaminated water, though I’ve used it there 
too in a pinch. It obviously doesn’t remove physical matter. 
https://www.steripen.com

With abandon,
Patrick 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[masmojo]

"Masmojo: Or you could snap up one of those demos on the Specials page. If they 
had a 48 or 52 I would probably own it now."

I certainly saw those & I eas tempted, but the 53 is just a smidge too big for 
me. I certainly was trying to talk myself into it, but with a trip to Cali. 
Coming up & this new "mountain bike" I figured discretion was in order.

Maybe we could nail down what things we KNOW this new bike will probably gave? 
Recent experiences indicate frame specific wheel sizes; I couldn't imagine 
deviating from that, unless the general esthetic/ function couldn't be 
maintained across 26", 650B & 29er. Currently, all sizes have plus size options 
available so maybe the new bike will be Plused!? On a non-suspension bike it 
makes a lot of sense,  but that doesn't really guarantee anything.

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[RBW] New shoes (and rims) for the Sam Hillborne

[RichS]

James, that’s a nice looking, well thought out rig. Lots of cool Sam H’s on the 
list lately.

Best,
Richard

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[RBW] Re: New Dia Compe 610 Centerpull Brakes?

[lconley]

Very interesting attachment hardware. The female part is holds the brake 
instead of the male.


>
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB- 200mm bullmoose bars

[Kainalu V.]

Anybody have a looong bullmoose bar they're not using? I just swapped out bars 
on my Rosco Bubbe mega mixte and need a few more cm of extension. I've got good 
stuffs for trade as well, please PM if you can help me out. kaivierstra at 
gmail.com 
Thanks 
-Kai 
BKNY 

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[MartyG]

The guard is from Wolf Tooth. Made for single speeds, so might not work on 
a 1X set-up. (I had some rub on the two highest gears when I had it set up 
as a 1X7.) I don't see it on their website now - it was there last week. 

On Monday, June 18, 2018 at 8:50:15 AM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>
> What guard is that? Bike looks great.

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[RBW] Re: 58 Appaloosa Build (a tale of two bike frames)

['Tony McG' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Beautiful bikes, Hugh. I was in Walnut Creek a few weeks ago and rode their 
55 Appaloosa demo with the new Billie bar. With a PBH of 89 cm, it puts me 
right on the bubble between the 55 and 58 Appaloosa. While the 55 did fit, 
the cockpit seemed short, and I would have preferred the shorter seatpost 
and stem height of the 58. I already have an Atlantis, so I am going to 
resist the Appaloosa for now, but I thought it would make a handsome 
fat-tired singlespeed for my stable.

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[RBW] Re: Pedals and Cycling Shoes for Feet Shaped Feet

[ChrisB]

Hi Patrick, I've tried many options for my wide feet. For the Roadini I 
also use Sidi Genius Mega's too (like Matt). For my commuter I've got Hope 
pedals. They're expensive but I've found them to be a tough, well made, 
wide platform for mashing in thin soled shoes. I was wearing Vivos 
exclusively for a while and so removed the pins on both sides. The nice 
feature, perhaps not unique but hard to find, is the machined grooves in 
the metal pedal body which helps with slippage (everything's a compromise, 
right)? Replacement bearings are also available but after 1,000 miles and a 
year's riding mine seem barely broken in! You coudl also leave in the pins 
on one side only... Chris

On Sunday, 17 June 2018 01:54:27 UTC+1, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> The idea ought to be simple. Shoes that allow the foot to function freely 
> and properly, in foot shape. Trouble is, shoes aren’t foot shaped. They are 
> modern foot binding devices that deform feet by constricting them in too 
> narrow and unfoot shape a container. Especially if you go barefoot 95% of 
> your off bike time. Cycling shoes are even narrower...
>
>
> https://thegrid.ai/withabandon/pedals-and-shoes-for-feet-shaped-feet-and-fixed-gear-riding
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>

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[RBW] Re: Marty's Step-through Single

[ctifusion]

What guard is that? Bike looks great.

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[RBW] Re: Compass Antelope Pass 700 x 55: the fat tire arms race continues

[Jon BALER]

I tried out the new Antelope Pass tires this weekend on my VO Piolet.  I 
did a 85 mile ride from Ellicott City, MD to Washington DC and back on 
roads and paved trails.   Ride quality and speed were great as expected.

I have ridden the Schwalbe Big Ones (light version?) for a while, so can 
offer some comparisons.  The Compass tires definitely have a thicker center 
tread section than Schwalble, and have supple sidewalls as expected.  This 
should give the Compass better flat protection.  On my older Salsa Semi 
29er rims, width was just under 55 mm on initial installation with tubes 
and 30 psi.   The tubeless bead is quite a stout, and initial installation 
took some muscle.  


On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 4:55:19 PM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>
> I need to check how to post pictures but these fit easily on the new 
> Atlantis. Plenty of clearance on each side of the chainstays. And that's 
> the tightest spot. 
>
> On Velocity Atlas rims. I'd bet it will also be fine on wider rims.
>
> Got the wrong stem and decided I needed a zero setback seatpost to get the 
> reach I want, so the build is on hold. 
>
> Brynnar
> Indy
>
>

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[RBW] Marty's Step-through Single

[A. Nostuh]

there needs to be some more MOM (Men on Mixte's) group rides

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[RBW] Re: WTT: my 58 Bosco for your albatross

[A. Nostuh]

I traded with another member. Thanks!

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