date:20240311

Squishing the various parts does nothing for braking, only for subsequent 
adjustment.  If they ain't broke, don't fix em.  It's more something to be 
aware of when buying more of them on the secondhand market

BL/EC

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 2:58:49 PM UTC-7 Greg J wrote:

> Thanks, both, for the very clear explanations!  I will have to go see how 
> badly mine have gotten --- but that said, my 2 bikes brake great with 986 
> and 987 brakes with Kool-Stop salmon shoes.
>
> Greg / Oakland
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:53:33 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Dia Compe 986 and the Ritchey Logic variant of them would 
>> bend/squish/deform four different ways in my ham-handed hands.  
>>
>> Facing the brake, the stack of parts was:
>>
>> 1. Allen Nut.  It takes a 6mm allen wrench.  It's threaded internally 
>> M6x1.0mm and threads onto the eye bolt
>> 2. flat steel washer
>> 3. Aluminum concave spacer wraps around a convex surface on brake arm
>> 4. Brake arm.  Presents a convex surface up front and a concave surface 
>> in back
>> 5. Aluminum convex spacer nestles into the concave backside of the brake 
>> arm
>> 6. Eye bolt that grabs the brake pad post.  Has 10mm flats built into it 
>> so you can hold it in place with a 10mm wrench
>>
>> Because of 1 and 6, you'd use a 6mm allen key and a 10mm wrench, which 
>> practically begs you to over tighten it.  Everything that takes a 6mm allen 
>> normally ought to be good and tight.  On almost all other brakes, the 
>> eyebolt has no flats, so you hold the brake pad steady with your fingers as 
>> you tighten the bolt.  It's harder to overtighten something with that 
>> technique.  
>>
>> When you over tighten a 986 (or Logic), the four ways to cause damage are:
>>
>> A. The "smooth post" pads weren't smooth.  They were serrated.  Those 
>> serrations bite deep into part #5, making future rotation adjustments hard. 
>> B. Part #5 itself would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
>> adjustment slot
>> C. Part #3 would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
>> adjustment slot
>> D. The post itself would bend
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:46:15 AM UTC-7 Greg J wrote:
>>
>>> Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 
>>> deforming or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis. 
>>>  What should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
>>> deforming?
>>>
>>> Thanks, 
>>> Greg / Oakland
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>>>
 On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

 ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
 mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
 "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
 advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
 Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that 
 smooth 
 post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands 
 of 
 the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 

 Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read 
 it through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.

 I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind 
 about impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a 
 Marukin Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially 
 challenging because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They 
 might have worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my 
 wedding gift to each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had 
 Waterford 
 do a full repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. 
 Shimano CX-70 brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully 
 confident braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping 
 in Vermont!

 I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, 
 probably because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing 
 the right bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is 
 changed about the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth 
 posts. On the contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that 
 part of the setup when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for 
 me. Different length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the 
 adapter 
 I have in mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I 
 have a pretty good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the 
 weight gain, if there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  

 One thing that the CX and Rene Herse brakes have in common, that makes 
 them such a pleasure

[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

2024-03-11 Thread Greg J

Thanks, both, for the very clear explanations!  I will have to go see how 
badly mine have gotten --- but that said, my 2 bikes brake great with 986 
and 987 brakes with Kool-Stop salmon shoes.

Greg / Oakland

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:53:33 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Dia Compe 986 and the Ritchey Logic variant of them would 
> bend/squish/deform four different ways in my ham-handed hands.  
>
> Facing the brake, the stack of parts was:
>
> 1. Allen Nut.  It takes a 6mm allen wrench.  It's threaded internally 
> M6x1.0mm and threads onto the eye bolt
> 2. flat steel washer
> 3. Aluminum concave spacer wraps around a convex surface on brake arm
> 4. Brake arm.  Presents a convex surface up front and a concave surface in 
> back
> 5. Aluminum convex spacer nestles into the concave backside of the brake 
> arm
> 6. Eye bolt that grabs the brake pad post.  Has 10mm flats built into it 
> so you can hold it in place with a 10mm wrench
>
> Because of 1 and 6, you'd use a 6mm allen key and a 10mm wrench, which 
> practically begs you to over tighten it.  Everything that takes a 6mm allen 
> normally ought to be good and tight.  On almost all other brakes, the 
> eyebolt has no flats, so you hold the brake pad steady with your fingers as 
> you tighten the bolt.  It's harder to overtighten something with that 
> technique.  
>
> When you over tighten a 986 (or Logic), the four ways to cause damage are:
>
> A. The "smooth post" pads weren't smooth.  They were serrated.  Those 
> serrations bite deep into part #5, making future rotation adjustments hard. 
> B. Part #5 itself would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
> adjustment slot
> C. Part #3 would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
> adjustment slot
> D. The post itself would bend
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:46:15 AM UTC-7 Greg J wrote:
>
>> Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 
>> deforming or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis. 
>>  What should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
>> deforming?
>>
>> Thanks, 
>> Greg / Oakland
>>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>>
>>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
>>> mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
>>> "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
>>> advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
>>> Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that smooth 
>>> post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands of 
>>> the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read it 
>>> through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.
>>>
>>> I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind about 
>>> impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a Marukin 
>>> Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially challenging 
>>> because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They might have 
>>> worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my wedding gift to 
>>> each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had Waterford do a full 
>>> repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. Shimano CX-70 
>>> brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully confident 
>>> braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping in Vermont!
>>>
>>> I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, 
>>> probably because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing 
>>> the right bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is 
>>> changed about the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth 
>>> posts. On the contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that 
>>> part of the setup when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for 
>>> me. Different length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the adapter 
>>> I have in mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I 
>>> have a pretty good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the 
>>> weight gain, if there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  
>>>
>>> One thing that the CX and Rene Herse brakes have in common, that makes 
>>> them such a pleasure (and so much easier) to work on, is the quality of the 
>>> hardware. 
>>>
>>> Ted Durant
>>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: J Cyclewear Waterproof Breathable Rain jacket 2XL with helmet cover.

SOLD !

On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 9:53:28 PM UTC-8 Kim H. wrote:

> Late last year I purchased a bright yellow J Cyclewear Waterproof 
> Breathable Rain jacket in size 2XL from their website. I would have bought 
> a 3XL, but they were all sold out.  
>
> My issue with the jacket is that there is not room for layer underneath 
> it. Therefore, I honestly cannot use it. If regularly wear a medium or 
> large size jacket. This one would mostly likely fit you for layering 
> underneath. 
>
>
> https://www.bicycleclothing.com/Waterproof-Breathable-Rain-Jackets.html
>
> https://www.bicycleclothing.com/Waterproof-Breathable-Helmet-Covers.html
>
> The jacket is in excellent and brand new condition. I have not even worn 
> it outside. It has been in my closet all this time. 
>
> pit zipper lengths - 17"
> width - 27"
> bottom of the hood to the bottom hem - 32"
> sleeve length - 33.75"
>
> I want to sell it with the matching detachable helmet cover that is 
> offered with the jacket. I paid around $80.00 for the both of them new, 
> with shipping.
>
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/bop/d/yelm-jg-cyclewear-waterproof-breathable/7711958538.html
>
> $65.00, shipped 
> Paypal payment preferred.
>
> Thank-you.
> Kim Hetzel. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread NYCbikeguy

Alternatively, I may rebuild the clem in a lesser spec than how it's built 
now, but it will still be a considered overbuilt compared to the clem 
completes that Riv is selling out of the box.

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 4:49:28 PM UTC-4 NYCbikeguy wrote:

> I'll definitely be parting out most of the components that are 
> transferrable, but I will most likely bundle up the wheelset (Deore hubs, 
> Ryde Andra40 650b's) since I don't have a need for 650b wheelsets for the 
> foreseeable future. I have a ton of goodies that I *can* include as an a 
> la carte deal, but the base sale will include a rolling chassis. I have a 
> chris king headset on the clem, so this will be considered in the price. 
> You guys are the first to hear about this soon-to-go-on-sale Clem! but I'm 
> definitely going to snap all the pics I can for the photo gallery Riv is 
> building on the site before this frame leaves me.
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Will you be selling the Clem complete or stealing some of the components 
>> for the Gus. I am pretty sure you will not regret this decision.:) If it 
>> helps; my 52 Clem has 580 wide Bosco’s with a 135mm FacePlater. I built the 
>> 57 Gus with the same Bosco but a 90mm Nitto V-5 stem. That put both 
>> handlebars in pretty much the exact same position relative to my saddle @ 
>> 72-73cm height. I have since changed the cockpit on the Gus to a Hope 
>> Cyclery “Albacore” bar paired with a 35mm Paul Boxcar. This has proved to 
>> be a better singletrack setup for me while remaining just as comfortable. I 
>> love both bikes.:)
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 11, 2024, at 4:19 PM, NYCbikeguy  wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, everyone!
>>
>> I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that 
>> the Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've 
>> noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the 
>> unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 
>> threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully 
>> loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto 
>> quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can 
>> totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I 
>> guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since 
>> I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard 
>> time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not 
>> even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator 
>> each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points 
>> everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. 
>>
>> With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for 
>> sale in a few weeks!
>> I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an 
>> abnormally long frame to ship.
>> Looking forward to hearing from you all.
>> Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!
>>
>> Best,
>> IY
>>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My 
>>> Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan 
>>> to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the 
>>> trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! 
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 I say go for it!  They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could 
 justify keeping both.  If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and 
 retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus.  I think the 
 Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do 
 impersonating Gus.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:

> Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think 
> are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? 
> Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?
>
> FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any 
> comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. 
>
> Thanks,
> IY
> [image: IMG_8169.JPG]
>
 -- 
>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2bbea848-8533-4db1-98a0-a1f869ef76den%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread NYCbikeguy

I'll definitely be parting out most of the components that are 
transferrable, but I will most likely bundle up the wheelset (Deore hubs, 
Ryde Andra40 650b's) since I don't have a need for 650b wheelsets for the 
foreseeable future. I have a ton of goodies that I *can* include as an a la 
carte deal, but the base sale will include a rolling chassis. I have a 
chris king headset on the clem, so this will be considered in the price. 
You guys are the first to hear about this soon-to-go-on-sale Clem! but I'm 
definitely going to snap all the pics I can for the photo gallery Riv is 
building on the site before this frame leaves me.

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 4:36:27 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Will you be selling the Clem complete or stealing some of the components 
> for the Gus. I am pretty sure you will not regret this decision.:) If it 
> helps; my 52 Clem has 580 wide Bosco’s with a 135mm FacePlater. I built the 
> 57 Gus with the same Bosco but a 90mm Nitto V-5 stem. That put both 
> handlebars in pretty much the exact same position relative to my saddle @ 
> 72-73cm height. I have since changed the cockpit on the Gus to a Hope 
> Cyclery “Albacore” bar paired with a 35mm Paul Boxcar. This has proved to 
> be a better singletrack setup for me while remaining just as comfortable. I 
> love both bikes.:)
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 11, 2024, at 4:19 PM, NYCbikeguy  wrote:
>
> Thanks, everyone!
>
> I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that 
> the Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've 
> noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the 
> unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 
> threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully 
> loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto 
> quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can 
> totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I 
> guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since 
> I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard 
> time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not 
> even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator 
> each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points 
> everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. 
>
> With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for sale 
> in a few weeks!
> I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an 
> abnormally long frame to ship.
> Looking forward to hearing from you all.
> Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!
>
> Best,
> IY
>
> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My 
>> Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan 
>> to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the 
>> trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> I say go for it!  They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could 
>>> justify keeping both.  If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and 
>>> retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus.  I think the 
>>> Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do 
>>> impersonating Gus.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:
>>>
 Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think 
 are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? 
 Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?

 FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any 
 comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. 

 Thanks,
 IY
 [image: IMG_8169.JPG]

>>> -- 
>
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2bbea848-8533-4db1-98a0-a1f869ef76den%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose

For what it is worth Ron used 25.4 clamp size stems and claims & claims they work great. Got to spread that clamp I guess.Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 12:09 PM, El Sapo wrote:Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the bike with ortho bars.On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their cardboard geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is not terribly far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop and stack (1985 Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 5.0 drop, 52.7 stack, 40.6 reach).My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either but could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward as needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm Faceplater based on your replies, but that does seem long!On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa build. My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the single bolt. On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:- Faceplater 110mm- Faceplater 135mm- Tallux 12cmWill the 110 Faceplater be too short?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread Richard Rose

Will you be selling the Clem complete or stealing some of the components for the Gus. I am pretty sure you will not regret this decision.:) If it helps; my 52 Clem has 580 wide Bosco’s with a 135mm FacePlater. I built the 57 Gus with the same Bosco but a 90mm Nitto V-5 stem. That put both handlebars in pretty much the exact same position relative to my saddle @ 72-73cm height. I have since changed the cockpit on the Gus to a Hope Cyclery “Albacore” bar paired with a 35mm Paul Boxcar. This has proved to be a better singletrack setup for me while remaining just as comfortable. I love both bikes.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 4:19 PM, NYCbikeguy wrote:Thanks, everyone!I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that the Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for sale in a few weeks!I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an abnormally long frame to ship.Looking forward to hearing from you all.Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!Best,IYOn Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! Joe Bernard On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:I say go for it! They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could justify keeping both. If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus. I think the Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do impersonating Gus. Bill LindsayEl Cerrito, CAOn Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. Thanks,IY

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of replaceing the clem with the gus. Thoughts?

2024-03-11 Thread NYCbikeguy

Thanks, everyone!
I feel like my decision to upgrade is cemented from the mere facts that the 
Gus is fillet brazed (ie. stronger frame), has less tail wobble (I've 
noticed this on the clem, but didn't think much of it in the past), and the 
unique feature that this is one of the very few Riv frames that are 1 1/8 
threadless. in 2019, I went 5 day tour on a Miyata 1000 to Japan, fully 
loaded, and have experienced the torquing of the handlebars in common nitto 
quill stems, as well as the torquing of the quill in the headtube. I can 
totally see this issue being eliminated with a threadless 1 1/8 system. I 
guess one of my lingering concerns is the overall length of the bike, since 
I'm going from a 52 clem (650b) to a 57 gus (700c). I've already had a hard 
time bringing the clem up the elevator to my workplace... the Gus may not 
even make it in there, and i'd have to resort to using the service elevator 
each and every time. Anyway, that's a minor concern compared to the points 
everyone mentioned, so that's the least of my worries. 

With that said, I guess my 52 Clem L in RBW blue will be going up for sale 
in a few weeks!
I'm in the NYC tristate area. I don't plan on shipping because this is an 
abnormally long frame to ship.
Looking forward to hearing from you all.
Also, Thanks for all the help and wisdom!

Best,
IY

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:30:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Bill brings up a detail I skipped over in my answer: keeping both. My 
> Sparkle Blue Used-To-Be-Leah's Clem L is a perfect shopper/cruiser I plan 
> to hit the trails with when this rain stops. I'd love to find a Gus for the 
> trails but I'm not giving up my Clem! 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:06:27 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I say go for it!  They are very different bikes, so as usual, I could 
>> justify keeping both.  If I had both and was asked to get rid of one and 
>> retain the other, I could easily see myself keeping the Gus.  I think the 
>> Gus would do a better job impersonating the Clem than the Clem would do 
>> impersonating Gus.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Saturday, March 9, 2024 at 9:34:49 AM UTC-8 NYCbikeguy wrote:
>>
>>> Regardless of the price/value of each frame, what do all of you think 
>>> are the pros and cons of either bikes? overlaps vs. differences? 
>>> Ultimately, which would you choose to keep?
>>>
>>> FYI, I tend to over-build my bikes and I enjoy riding them, so any 
>>> comments alluding to "that's too much bike" will be disregarded. 
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> IY
>>> [image: IMG_8169.JPG]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Long Riv cranks are cheap now.

2024-03-11 Thread Brian Forsee

As a fan of long cranks i am tempted by this deal. I believe it is only for 
the external bearing bb cranks though.

Brian

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 3:13:51 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The email update says 177 and 184 Silver cranks are 40% off.  Nows the 
> time to get them if you zig while others zag.  
>
> If one of you has a 173 and are looking to go longer, I may be willing to 
> take your 173.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Long Riv cranks are cheap now.

The email update says 177 and 184 Silver cranks are 40% off.  Nows the time 
to get them if you zig while others zag.  

If one of you has a 173 and are looking to go longer, I may be willing to 
take your 173.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2024

$7000  In a word, HA!  At least they are taking offers...  

BL in EC

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:28:26 PM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Heron Touring 
> 55cm
> $7000
> Walled Lake, Michigan
> Rare rare rare parts like Titanium Chris King headset, Nitto racks, and 
> full Campagnolo...
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/176156925449?itmmeta=01HRQFP37XW2ZW9W57MX91XV8H=item2903c55e09:g:1-QAAOSwlT9le1Vr=enc%3AAQAI4A7jbJYmJLb0qhGidg8sdvoie5vcUpIvYrS%2BSMvrLJLvPiSDvKpjMsaHlJTCd1soc%2BS7lyI3DhBCJIMPjYbsw%2Bz2jx3FF1A8HaYOsrSGCGDojnJMNqrJC9m0GJvRkaVV7ejS4wIjNmkGPkl5PLpOEQlbXY8ub8%2FhPJelndP333HN%2B5YXfIBsGZBcK%2BedK1MLmQWY7kHqX4c4AzxDVzG%2B1rJVrllsTotNUBw2pKEhm%2BQDzzEV4sTfCquOQ0jScQhSElZQaXk3KjAGccNhRMGhT54kCgPjyFiebEPpJtvqbTfN%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4C02O_FYw
>
> On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 5:36:38 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Roadini
>> 57cm
>> 2000
>> Emeryville, CA
>>
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/emeryville-rivendell-leo-roadini/7720529232.html
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2024

2024-03-11 Thread Michael Morrissey

Heron Touring 
55cm
$7000
Walled Lake, Michigan
Rare rare rare parts like Titanium Chris King headset, Nitto racks, and 
full Campagnolo...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176156925449?itmmeta=01HRQFP37XW2ZW9W57MX91XV8H=item2903c55e09:g:1-QAAOSwlT9le1Vr=enc%3AAQAI4A7jbJYmJLb0qhGidg8sdvoie5vcUpIvYrS%2BSMvrLJLvPiSDvKpjMsaHlJTCd1soc%2BS7lyI3DhBCJIMPjYbsw%2Bz2jx3FF1A8HaYOsrSGCGDojnJMNqrJC9m0GJvRkaVV7ejS4wIjNmkGPkl5PLpOEQlbXY8ub8%2FhPJelndP333HN%2B5YXfIBsGZBcK%2BedK1MLmQWY7kHqX4c4AzxDVzG%2B1rJVrllsTotNUBw2pKEhm%2BQDzzEV4sTfCquOQ0jScQhSElZQaXk3KjAGccNhRMGhT54kCgPjyFiebEPpJtvqbTfN%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4C02O_FYw

On Sunday, March 3, 2024 at 5:36:38 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Roadini
> 57cm
> 2000
> Emeryville, CA
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/emeryville-rivendell-leo-roadini/7720529232.html
>

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[RBW] Re: Revisiting the Nitto 52f Basket Rack

2024-03-11 Thread Michael Morrissey

Hi Leah,

Your Platypus is going to be amazing. I advocate that you get the Velo 
Orange steering damper.

However, to install it you are going to need to reroute your cables on the 
downtube. Here's what you need for that, which allows you to run full 
length outer housing. I have these for my rear brake on my Rivendell and 
they work great. As a bonus, you can get cool cable outers in a contrasting 
color (try Sim Works or Velo Orange for these): 
https://www.amazon.com/ZYAMY-Bicycle-Hydraulic-Housing-Clamps/dp/B095P4GPQZ

The steerstopper is a cool farkle (fancy accessory really kewl likely 
expensive), but it's a $100 solution to a $10 problem. Try one of these on 
your front brake lever first as a parking brake:
https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Original-Reusable-Assorted/dp/B00SHBNE8E/ref=asc_df_B00SHBNE8E/?tag=hyprod-20=df0=19807628==g=15513276014631186794c===9067609=pla-318105899700=1=CjwKCAjw17qvBhBrEiwA1rU9w2QBemfat-bZ6llmXU4aAVZxoNtAa1OXdctlHdbXqGK7DcyUwTEkvxoC9MkQAvD_BwE

Michael
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:22:42 AM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> @Tom,
> Thank-you for your information. I appreciate it.  
>
> Kim Hetzel.
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:52:33 AM UTC-7 Tom Horton wrote:
>
>> kim, re the steerstopper on a clem L, I've had one on a clem L 64 for a 
>> few years and works fineI don't load the front basket with bricks or 
>> anything ultra heavy, but load of groceries, books, etc...no 
>> problemsthe steerstopper guy wasn't sure it would work and even offered 
>> to make a custom, longer version of the steerstopper; but the regular one 
>> has been fine for me. you need to snug the receiver part up tight (but 
>> beware, you can strip the threads if you get too exuberant).  I'd recommend 
>> it for a clem L; also have them on a few other front basketed rivs, all 
>> good.
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 12:34:26 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_5598.jpeg][image: IMG_5582.jpeg]Hi Friends,
>>>
>>> I’ve had a Nitto Basket Rack from Rivendell for a few years. I think it 
>>> looks awesome, it’s dead useful, but it annoyed me that it was heavy and 
>>> made my bars swing around on my mermaid Platy. But as I plan the build for 
>>> my 50 cm purple Platy (which is taking a million years) I am considering 
>>> putting the basket rack back into service. It pains me to see it sitting, 
>>> and it’s so pretty and unique that I just want to give it another try. 
>>> Maybe the 650b wheels will be less floppy with this rack? Maybe the 
>>> smaller, lighter bike won’t seem as penalized by the heft of this rack? It 
>>> would be such an easy experiment if it wasn’t for the dyno light/wiring 
>>> that is affected by the decision. It’s not a matter of simply pulling the 
>>> rack, because wire length, light mount, etc are affected and will not be an 
>>> easy switch. My shop hates soldering and I certainly can’t do it. 
>>>
>>> I had started a thread long ago about this and a lot of people reported 
>>> similar experiences. Now that some more years have gone by, I’m curious if 
>>> opinions have changed, or if more people have these racks and would offer 
>>> their opinions. There isn’t much in the way of reviews to read online. 
>>> Maybe some here would offer theirs. If more folks are trying and loving 
>>> their Nitto Basket Racks, I’ll be likely to install mine. 
>>>
>>> Meanwhile, this beautiful Platypus sits in my living room on the shelf, 
>>> waiting for its parts to return from the anodizer. And, there’s fresh snow 
>>> on the ground. But talking bikes will get me through!
>>> Leah
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

Super helpful Keith! 

Thanks!

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:53:27 PM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:

> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:30:27 AM UTC-6 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> My dimensions have been the bane of my cycling existence, Bill! 
>
>
> Bill's question and suggestion to clarify was pretty insightful then.  I 
> suffer from the same handicap as you:  short legs/ long torso.  (6'2" w/ 87 
> pbh in my case.)  
>
> Knowing what I now know after many years of figuring it out,  I'd suggest 
> making sure you get the biggest frame you can possibly stand over.  
> Especially with the older models that tended to have proportionately 
> shorter top tubes.  They might still only be marginally long enough, but 
> the good news is that there was likely a size increment that worked pretty 
> well.  The later, expanded-sizing models don't come in as many increments, 
> but the good nees here is that if you DO happen to find one that maxes-out 
> your standover height  it is likely to be the most no-compromise, best-fit 
> bike you've ever owned.  Just don't settle until you find it.  
>
> Also, FWIW, the very first run of sam hillbournes (canti versions in 
> metalic orange or sagey green wihout creme headtubes and with gold decals, 
> I recall), which were among  if not THE first to use the expanded sizing, 
> had longer top tubes than later versions.  Im always on the lookout for one 
> of those, even though i don't "need" one.
>
>
>
>
>  
>
> I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also 
> have shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from 
> wherever about what's available!
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:26:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c 
> original-run Atlantis.  That may be a tricky fit challenge.  I like your 
> inclusion of the Platy on your list.  No standover worries with a nice big 
> step through!  Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you 
> may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from 
> a friendly RBWGroup reader.  Good luck with the search  
>
> BL
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Thanks for the thoughts Bill! 
>
> My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. I'm 
> 6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs. 
>
> Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might be.
>
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
> what size are you looking for?
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey Y'all,
>
> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move up 
> to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an Appaloosa, 
> Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into older models 
> if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, Bombadil, etc.)
>
> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
> starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>
> - Drew
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

Dia Compe 986 and the Ritchey Logic variant of them would 
bend/squish/deform four different ways in my ham-handed hands.  

Facing the brake, the stack of parts was:

1. Allen Nut.  It takes a 6mm allen wrench.  It's threaded internally 
M6x1.0mm and threads onto the eye bolt
2. flat steel washer
3. Aluminum concave spacer wraps around a convex surface on brake arm
4. Brake arm.  Presents a convex surface up front and a concave surface in 
back
5. Aluminum convex spacer nestles into the concave backside of the brake arm
6. Eye bolt that grabs the brake pad post.  Has 10mm flats built into it so 
you can hold it in place with a 10mm wrench

Because of 1 and 6, you'd use a 6mm allen key and a 10mm wrench, which 
practically begs you to over tighten it.  Everything that takes a 6mm allen 
normally ought to be good and tight.  On almost all other brakes, the 
eyebolt has no flats, so you hold the brake pad steady with your fingers as 
you tighten the bolt.  It's harder to overtighten something with that 
technique.  

When you over tighten a 986 (or Logic), the four ways to cause damage are:

A. The "smooth post" pads weren't smooth.  They were serrated.  Those 
serrations bite deep into part #5, making future rotation adjustments hard. 
B. Part #5 itself would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
adjustment slot
C. Part #3 would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height adjustment 
slot
D. The post itself would bend

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:46:15 AM UTC-7 Greg J wrote:

> Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 
> deforming or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis. 
>  What should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
> deforming?
>
> Thanks, 
> Greg / Oakland
>
> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
>> mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
>> "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
>> advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
>> Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that smooth 
>> post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands of 
>> the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 
>>
>>
>> Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read it 
>> through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.
>>
>> I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind about 
>> impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a Marukin 
>> Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially challenging 
>> because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They might have 
>> worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my wedding gift to 
>> each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had Waterford do a full 
>> repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. Shimano CX-70 
>> brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully confident 
>> braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping in Vermont!
>>
>> I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, 
>> probably because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing 
>> the right bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is 
>> changed about the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth 
>> posts. On the contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that 
>> part of the setup when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for 
>> me. Different length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the adapter 
>> I have in mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I 
>> have a pretty good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the 
>> weight gain, if there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  
>>
>> One thing that the CX and Rene Herse brakes have in common, that makes 
>> them such a pleasure (and so much easier) to work on, is the quality of the 
>> hardware. 
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

2024-03-11 Thread Ted Durant

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:46:15 PM UTC-5 Greg J wrote:

Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 deforming 
or squishing when overtightened?  


I just did a bit of googling and realize the brakes I'm thinking of were 
980, not 986. Wish I still had them to take photos. On mine, working from 
memory, the washers that have the channels for holding the brake pad post 
and the brake pad posts themselves deformed, making fine adjustment 
impossible. The eyebolt openings may also have deformed.

Ted Durant
Milwaukee WI USA

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

Hehe, knew that comment was coming the minute I posted Bill!

Yeah, makes sense! Would love to test ride a few models In the greater
Atlanta area if folks have stuff from 54cm and up.

The bikeflights/traveling still Applies in the case that someone has
something interesting to sell.

- Drew


On Mon, Mar 11, 2024 at 14:04 Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> "I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also
> have shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from
> wherever about what's available!"
>
> I think you missed the tactical objective of my suggestion:  If somebody
> near you has a bike that may be a good candidate, they may let you test
> ride it, even though it's not for sale.  If somebody in Atlanta lets you
> ride their 60cm Platypus, then you might conclude: "hot DAMN!  That's
> exactly what I need" and your search is now laser focused and confident
> that it will succeed.
>
> Nobody is going to ship you a bike to test ride :)
>
> BL
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:30:27 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> My dimensions have been the bane of my cycling existence, Bill!
>>
>> I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also
>> have shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from
>> wherever about what's available!
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:26:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c
>>> original-run Atlantis.  That may be a tricky fit challenge.  I like your
>>> inclusion of the Platy on your list.  No standover worries with a nice big
>>> step through!  Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you
>>> may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from
>>> a friendly RBWGroup reader.  Good luck with the search
>>>
>>> BL
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for the thoughts Bill!

 My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm.
 I'm 6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs.

 Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might
 be.


 On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> what size are you looking for?
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hey Y'all,
>>
>> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to
>> move up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an
>> Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into
>> older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki,
>> Bombadil, etc.)
>>
>> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here
>> before starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>>
>> - Drew
>>
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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

"I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also 
have shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from 
wherever about what's available!"

I think you missed the tactical objective of my suggestion:  If somebody 
near you has a bike that may be a good candidate, they may let you test 
ride it, even though it's not for sale.  If somebody in Atlanta lets you 
ride their 60cm Platypus, then you might conclude: "hot DAMN!  That's 
exactly what I need" and your search is now laser focused and confident 
that it will succeed.  

Nobody is going to ship you a bike to test ride :)

BL
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:30:27 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> My dimensions have been the bane of my cycling existence, Bill! 
>
> I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also 
> have shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from 
> wherever about what's available!
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:26:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c 
>> original-run Atlantis.  That may be a tricky fit challenge.  I like your 
>> inclusion of the Platy on your list.  No standover worries with a nice big 
>> step through!  Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you 
>> may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from 
>> a friendly RBWGroup reader.  Good luck with the search  
>>
>> BL
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the thoughts Bill! 
>>>
>>> My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. 
>>> I'm 6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs. 
>>>
>>> Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might 
>>> be.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 what size are you looking for?

 On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hey Y'all,
>
> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to 
> move up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an 
> Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into 
> older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, 
> Bombadil, etc.)
>
> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here 
> before starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>
> - Drew
>


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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

2024-03-11 Thread iamkeith

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:30:27 AM UTC-6 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

My dimensions have been the bane of my cycling existence, Bill!

Bill's question and suggestion to clarify was pretty insightful then. I
suffer from the same handicap as you: short legs/ long torso. (6'2" w/ 87
pbh in my case.)

Knowing what I now know after many years of figuring it out, I'd suggest
making sure you get the biggest frame you can possibly stand over.
Especially with the older models that tended to have proportionately
shorter top tubes. They might still only be marginally long enough, but
the good news is that there was likely a size increment that worked pretty
well. The later, expanded-sizing models don't come in as many increments,
but the good nees here is that if you DO happen to find one that maxes-out
your standover height it is likely to be the most no-compromise, best-fit
bike you've ever owned. Just don't settle until you find it.

Also, FWIW, the very first run of sam hillbournes (canti versions in
metalic orange or sagey green wihout creme headtubes and with gold decals,
I recall), which were among if not THE first to use the expanded sizing,
had longer top tubes than later versions. Im always on the lookout for one
of those, even though i don't "need" one.

I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also have
shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from wherever
about what's available!

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:26:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c
original-run Atlantis. That may be a tricky fit challenge. I like your
inclusion of the Platy on your list. No standover worries with a nice big
step through! Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you
may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from
a friendly RBWGroup reader. Good luck with the search

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts Bill!

My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. I'm
6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs.

Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might be.

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

what size are you looking for?

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey Y'all,

Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move up
to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an Appaloosa,
Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into older models
if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, Bombadil, etc.)

Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before
starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.

- Drew

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[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

2024-03-11 Thread Greg J

Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 deforming 
or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis.  What 
should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
deforming?

Thanks, 
Greg / Oakland

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
> mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
> "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
> advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
> Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that smooth 
> post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands of 
> the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 
>
>
> Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read it 
> through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.
>
> I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind about 
> impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a Marukin 
> Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially challenging 
> because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They might have 
> worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my wedding gift to 
> each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had Waterford do a full 
> repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. Shimano CX-70 
> brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully confident 
> braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping in Vermont!
>
> I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, probably 
> because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing the right 
> bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is changed about 
> the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth posts. On the 
> contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that part of the setup 
> when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for me. Different 
> length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the adapter I have in 
> mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I have a pretty 
> good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the weight gain, if 
> there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  
>
> One thing that the CX and Rene Herse brakes have in common, that makes 
> them such a pleasure (and so much easier) to work on, is the quality of the 
> hardware. 
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

My dimensions have been the bane of my cycling existence, Bill! 

I'm in Atlanta GA, but I travel all over the East coast for work. Also have 
shipped plenty with bikeflights and happy to talk to folks from wherever 
about what's available!

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:26:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c 
> original-run Atlantis.  That may be a tricky fit challenge.  I like your 
> inclusion of the Platy on your list.  No standover worries with a nice big 
> step through!  Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you 
> may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from 
> a friendly RBWGroup reader.  Good luck with the search  
>
> BL
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the thoughts Bill! 
>>
>> My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. 
>> I'm 6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs. 
>>
>> Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might be.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> what size are you looking for?
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hey Y'all,

 Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move 
 up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an 
 Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into 
 older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, 
 Bombadil, etc.)

 Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here 
 before starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.

 - Drew

>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

Yeah you're a fair bit taller than me and I used to ride a 58cm 700c 
original-run Atlantis.  That may be a tricky fit challenge.  I like your 
inclusion of the Platy on your list.  No standover worries with a nice big 
step through!  Last suggestion, if you mention your general location, you 
may be able to arrange test-ride try-outs on a good candidate chassis from 
a friendly RBWGroup reader.  Good luck with the search  

BL

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:17:11 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the thoughts Bill! 
>
> My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. I'm 
> 6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs. 
>
> Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might be.
>
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> what size are you looking for?
>>
>> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Y'all,
>>>
>>> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move 
>>> up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an 
>>> Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into 
>>> older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, 
>>> Bombadil, etc.)
>>>
>>> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here 
>>> before starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>>>
>>> - Drew
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

Thanks for the thoughts Bill! 

My saddle height is 74cm and the Atlantis I just got rid of is a 53cm. I'm 
6' with a 840 pbh, so pretty long torso and shorter legs. 

Budget is fairly open depending on what the Frame is/how rare it might be.


On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 1:10:51 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:

> what size are you looking for?
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Y'all,
>>
>> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move 
>> up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an 
>> Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into 
>> older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, 
>> Bombadil, etc.)
>>
>> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
>> starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>>
>> - Drew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

2024-03-11 Thread Ryan

oops never mind...sorry; its in your post header

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 12:10:51 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:

> what size are you looking for?
>
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Y'all,
>>
>> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move 
>> up to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an 
>> Appaloosa, Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into 
>> older models if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, 
>> Bombadil, etc.)
>>
>> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
>> starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>>
>> - Drew
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

2024-03-11 Thread Ryan

what size are you looking for?

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:55:25 AM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Y'all,
>
> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move up 
> to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an Appaloosa, 
> Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into older models 
> if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, Bombadil, etc.)
>
> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
> starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>
> - Drew
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

"Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet."

It's a great move to post here.  Good luck with the search.  Some of the 
models you mention are "expanded" with more of a TT slope vs others like 
the Saluki which is flatter in TT slope, so the numbers associated with the 
sizes are kind of different.  Maybe to normalize it all, you should list 
your Saddle Height, and/or the size Atlantis you got rid of.  Like, I'm a 
75.5cm Saddle Height and I'd use a 54 Hunqapillar and maybe a 58 or 60 
Saluki.  Finally, I've had "shaking bikes loose" that weren't previously 
"for sale" by stating my budget.  Just a suggestion.  Many people think 
it's crazy to actually say what you are willing to spend.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 9:55:25 AM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Y'all,
>
> Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move up 
> to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an Appaloosa, 
> Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into older models 
> if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, Bombadil, etc.)
>
> Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
> starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.
>
> - Drew
>

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[RBW] WTB Riv Canti/Vbrake Frame in 54/55/56

Hey Y'all,

Recently sold my Atlantis frame that was a bit too small for me to move up 
to something that fits better. Wondering if anyone here has an Appaloosa, 
Atlantis, Plat, Sam that they're looking to move on. Also into older models 
if the sizing works/they're in good shape(Hunq, Saluki, Bombadil, etc.)

Figure this might be a long shot, but better to make it known here before 
starting to dig too deep into the corners of the internet.

- Drew

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bags Bags Bags (BXB, Sackville, Apidura)

2024-03-11 Thread Collin A

Apidura bag has sold, the bagboy and BXB bag are still available...

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:37:15 AM UTC-7 Collin A wrote:

> Still got 'em, don't be afraid to make an offer...
>
> Collin in Berktown
>
> On Thursday, February 29, 2024 at 8:33:32 PM UTC-8 Collin A wrote:
>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Cleaning out the garage and I'm posting some spare bags that I'm not 
>> using anymore!
>> Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5nMqbvpGJVPSDqiR6
>>
>> Sackville Bagboy Olive, Older version without D-rings or skid plate. 
>> Unused except for a short jaunt to get some groceries, practically new when 
>> acquired from Bill several months ago. The wife prefers her 
>> panniers...*asking 
>> for $160 shipped*
>>
>> BagxBird better half frame bag. This is the older/prototype bag, black 
>> camo with maglock, size medium (at the time). Fits great on at least a 47.5 
>> AHH, 51 Appaloosa, and a 52H clem. Comes with free dirt from Mt Tam and 
>> some sand from the American River :) A*sking for $70 shipped. *This is 
>> probably the closest: Better Half - Small Long (S-M Bikes) | Bags by 
>> Bird (bagsxbird.com) 
>> 
>>
>> Apidura top tube bag, 1L size. It's pretty svelte and quite waterproof! 
>> All my bikes have brake braze-ons or the top tubes are too short to avoid 
>> thigh rub when pedaling out of the saddle. *Asking $50 shipped*. Racing 
>> Top Tube Pack | Apidura 
>> 
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Collin in Berkeley
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-11 Thread El Sapo


Wish I would have understood the issues with the 26 mm handlebar clamp 
prior to purchasing the Ortho Bar. No megusta.The pics posted by iamKeith 
don’t show that his hair, beard, and hip vibe are much greater riding the 
bike with ortho bars.
On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 7:50:27 AM UTC-7 Chris K wrote:

> Thank you all for the pics and advice! Very helpful.
>
> I'm putting these bars on a 1985 Trek 870. As Riv says on their cardboard 
> geo charts "don't obsess", but geometrically this old frame is not terribly 
> far off some Riv models, setting aside, of course, bb drop and stack (1985 
> Trek 870: 21.8" frame, 71º hta, 71.5º sta, 58.0 tt, 48.5 cs, 5.0 drop, 52.7 
> stack, 40.6 reach).
>
> My current set-up is Choco bars and an 8cm Dirt Drop. The height feels 
> fine, just slightly above saddle height, and the reach isn't bad either but 
> could be ~1" longer. I'm fairly upright but can lean in and grip forward as 
> needed. I just like the idea of more width and more flare.
>
> Are these details helpful? I'm maybe leaning toward the 135mm Faceplater 
> based on your replies, but that does seem long!
> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:48:02 PM UTC-6 Dan wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_9267.jpeg]I’ve got these bars lined up for my Appaloosa 
>> build. 
>> My local bike shop had a NOS Velo Orange Grand Cru stem in 120mm that 
>> looks pretty perfect. It’s 26.0, and having no rise should be slightly 
>> longer in reality than its length number suggests. I’m hoping that the 
>> wider clamp section will help it to grip the bars well too, despite the 
>> single bolt. 
>>
>>
>> On Monday 11 March 2024 at 03:33:24 UTC+10:30 Chris K wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all, I've got some Ortho Bars in my cart and looking for stem advice 
>>> from those who use this bar. Obv there are multiple fit and frame factors 
>>> that play into something like this, but curious what people are generally 
>>> going with. Here are the options I'm deciding between:
>>>
>>> - Faceplater 110mm
>>> - Faceplater 135mm
>>> - Tallux 12cm
>>>
>>> Will the 110 Faceplater be too short?
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Question for Cheviot Owners

2024-03-11 Thread Leah Peterson

Really?! We need to stories AND the photos!Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2024, at 12:03 PM, katherine Evanskbe wrote:Thanks to you Leah, I’m the proud owner of two!! When I have a minute, I will post some pictures! :)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 12:51 PM, Leah Peterson wrote:This has been an interesting and fun thread to read! Sounds like you all cherish your Cheviots; makes me want to be in your club!Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 2:55 PM, J Imler wrote:My Chev ownership is only months long and I appreciate its utility, beauty, and charm. I've set it up similarly to the "do-it-all" from the Chev brochure, minus the fenders. At a 60cm frame, it's a bigger bike but no worries due to the step-through. I'm very happy to own this bicycle.On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 4:35:13 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Recently a James on this List wanted a 60 cm Cheviot. Pam (who always wants everyone to find their Rivendell and get riding) asked me to help find one. I knew it would be difficult, and while I didn’t find him one, Kim found him TWO, and in James’ preferred color. Happy ending. Anyway, it seems to me (I might be wrong) that Cheviots are rarely for sale. I think they were made from 2014-2019, so they did have a good run. Is it that their owners keep them? Or are there really just so few? Maybe more of them belong to women, and maybe women don’t sell bikes as often as men do? Why is it so hard to find a Cheviot on the used market? This is what I want to know.Leah

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Re: [RBW] Ron's Ortho... stem question

2024-03-11 Thread Mike H

I just finished the same process of deciding on a stem for my Ortho Bars as 
well. I initially went with the 12cm Tallux, but since I like to lean into 
my bars a bit and not be totally upright, I dealt with slipping. I've got a 
long torso and arms so I wanted to get a bit more reach too since the 
Orthos sweep back further than any bar I've had before. I ended up getting 
the 90-190 face-plater in 135mm and I think that was the right move. I've 
yet to ride any bumpy trails yet but it feels much more solid and that bit 
of extra stem length is beneficial for me. 
On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 6:30:52 PM UTC-5 iamkeith wrote:

> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:26:48 PM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> The recommendation for wide  4-bolt, removable faceplate stems is a good 
>> one.  It helps control flex.  But Riv doesn't offer those in 26.0, do 
>> they?  Not even sure who does, these days.  Might need a 31.8 faceplater 
>> with a shim.  
>> Correction to my earlier post: I actually have a 130mm stem with my black 
>> ortho bar, not 120... and I still wish it was longer.  I forgot, but that's 
>> one of the reasons I switched things up:  I finally found a long 26.0 stem 
>> with a good secure clamp.  FWIW,  here are some pics of both Ortho and 
>> Tosco bars.  Side-by-side and on bikes, so you can see where the grip falls 
>> relative to the steering axis.  Once I'm satisfied, I'll wrap them for more 
>> hand positions.  Once again, Im showing this because you might find more 
>> info regarding the Tosco fit, and it's so similar.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Question for Cheviot Owners

2024-03-11 Thread katherine Evanskbe

Thanks to you Leah, I’m the proud owner of two!! When I have a minute, I will post some pictures! :)Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 10, 2024, at 12:51 PM, Leah Peterson wrote:This has been an interesting and fun thread to read! Sounds like you all cherish your Cheviots; makes me want to be in your club!Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 9, 2024, at 2:55 PM, J Imler wrote:My Chev ownership is only months long and I appreciate its utility, beauty, and charm. I've set it up similarly to the "do-it-all" from the Chev brochure, minus the fenders. At a 60cm frame, it's a bigger bike but no worries due to the step-through. I'm very happy to own this bicycle.On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 4:35:13 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:Recently a James on this List wanted a 60 cm Cheviot. Pam (who always wants everyone to find their Rivendell and get riding) asked me to help find one. I knew it would be difficult, and while I didn’t find him one, Kim found him TWO, and in James’ preferred color. Happy ending. Anyway, it seems to me (I might be wrong) that Cheviots are rarely for sale. I think they were made from 2014-2019, so they did have a good run. Is it that their owners keep them? Or are there really just so few? Maybe more of them belong to women, and maybe women don’t sell bikes as often as men do? Why is it so hard to find a Cheviot on the used market? This is what I want to know.Leah

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[RBW] Re: Best Rivendell for pavement riding

@Bill,
I have been running Schwalbe Racing Ralph 57mm(2.25) tires on my Clem for
the first time in the last four months with Honjo Flat 65 fenders. I really
like them.

Kim Hetzel.

On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 8:24:59 PM UTC-8 Bill Schairer wrote:

Steven,

Lately, I've been running mostly Schwalbe Racing Ralph 50mm tires but i've
run 28's and 32/33/34 tires as well. Unfortunately, i think Schwalbe has
abandoned tubulars altogether. I have accumulated several of the Racing
Ralphs but after that, I'm not sure that anything comparable is available.
I know, at one time, one could special order from Dugast or maybe FMB but I
don't know about now.

On Friday, March 8, 2024 at 6:21:26 PM UTC-8 Jason Fuller wrote:

I know this has been pretty well covered by now, but I'm finally going to
add my two cents as well. I have ridden a few, but I think that anecdotes
are only going to take you so far because of the wide range of preferences
on the speed-comfort continuum. Based on your replies, I feel quite
confident that both the Homer and the Hillborne would be perfectly suited:
comfortable as heck, don't feel overbuilt, not super fast but not sluggish
either. If you're fine with caliper brakes I can't find a good reason to
push one over the other. My Hillborne has been with me for close to 4.5
years now, I've ridden it 10,400km and counting, and it has been my
favourite bike every day that I've owned it. I flip-flop between Albatross
and Noodles and it's great with either.

If you aren't buying right away, the upcoming Charlie H Gallop would be a
worthy contestant too, I'm betting. I had the prototype and it was a
compelling combination of the long wheelbase Rivs with the lighter tubing
Rivs.

On Saturday 2 March 2024 at 10:56:38 UTC-8 cfic...@gmail.com wrote:

I really like the Rivendell approach to bikes and bike technology with the
idea of a more upright posture and a long wheelbase for long rides at a
comfortable pace, but it seems like the models all lean heavily to what
they call "country bikes." I like to ride from my house, and that means
riding almost exclusively on smooth (mostly) pavement. Can anyone suggest
which models are better suited for road riding? Reading and comparing the
descriptions, it seems that the Homer might be a good choice, or possibly
the Appaloosa or Atlantis? Or the new Charlie Gallop, though I haven't
heard much about how it is supposed to ride? I tried a Roadini (which I
recently listed here and sold), but I think it was too big for me. I never
felt comfortable on it. Maybe I just needed it in the right size.

I would like the bike to work well with drop bars because of the multiple
hand positions and they're just what I'm used to. I tried a bike with swept
bars recently, but found I wasn't comfortable on longer rides. And when
riding on streets with minimal shoulder width, I felt like I was going to
catch the end of them on mailboxes or other obstacles. Maybe there's a
handlebar in Rivendell's catalog that works well for road riding?

I'd appreciate any comments, especially if someone does this type of riding
and has tried several of these models. Thanks.

Chuck

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Re: [RBW] Best Rivendell for pavement riding

@Laing,
You have spoken about your great collection many times. Now the reveal. All 
I have to say is, WOW !
Thank-you for sharing.

Kim Hetzel 

On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 6:15:26 AM UTC-8 lconley wrote:

> Or you can buy a bunch of Rivendells and keep most of them
>
> [image: IMG_0034s.JPG]
> [image: IMG_0031s.JPG]
>
> Note that comfort depends a lot upon your body proportions. When I finally 
> got a Rivendell custom for my drop bar road bike, the top tube was 10 cm 
> longer than the seat tube.
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, March 5, 2024 at 12:57:14 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> The other way to discover what you really want to ride is to buy a lot of 
>> bikes that sort of look like what you want (you are not sure what you 
>> want), upgrade them all, repeat several times as you try to perfect 
>> previously unrealized imperfections, then sell them at a loss. Do this for 
>> a couple of decades, then buy customs. This method costs a bit more than 
>> the other one.
>>
>> But yes, ride lots of Rivendells. All those I've owned (I bought 5 
>> including a 2nd-gen Ram and kept one that will turn 25 in April) all had a 
>> certain common handling and "feel" in common. And I do think that a Ram, if 
>> you don't want to spring for a Roadeo, might well be what you are looking 
>> for.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 7:39 PM Corwin Zechar  wrote:
>>
>>> ... Ride lots of bikes - Rivendells if possible. Think carefully about 
>>> what you want. Don't be afraid to try different things. Meditate on the 
>>> differences. And most of all, practice patience if you are looking for a 
>>> Ram.
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Goals for 2024 (will they be S.M.A.R.T. ?)

Jay

Thanks for those words.  I get it that work can poison the entire notion of 
being organized, and I TOTALLY get how escaping one's work-head-space is 
necessary for some people.  It sounds like you've got something going that 
works great for you.  Saturday was one goal (finish a 300k) and I spent 
essentially zero time thinking about that while I was on my ride.  I had a 
15 hour bike ride to bliss out on everything else.  The fact I had a goal 
didn't get me to the end.  The goal got me to the start.  I very very 
rarely regret going on a ride when it's in progress, and almost never do I 
regret it when it's over, but in a totally unstructured format, devoid of 
any goals, the other demands and gentle requests of life, layered with my 
own intertia/laziness make it harder to begin things.  Cycling is "my 
church".  Goals help get me to church.  

Take my front yard for example.  We had a fair bit of work done, and it 
looks great.  It rained all winter, and now Spring is coming and all the 
weeding and pruning needs to happen, and it's still cold.  It is really 
easy for me to put it off in the moment.  It's pretty clear to me I need a 
structure.  Spend 90 minutes every Sunday out in the yard.  If I want 
Sunday off, do it Saturday.  If I did, I'd make a dent in the new growth.  

The other thing I'm doing here is selfishly using the RBW Group.  By just 
typing the words, "I intend to do activity X by date Y", that hacks my 
brain to make it happen.  Lots of people have these unfettered aspirations 
"I'd like to learn an instrument", "I'd like to run a half-marathon", 
"Someday I'll ride a century".  For some of those people, just picking a 
date and writing it down starts the ball rolling to actually taking the 
action to getting that big thing done.  Some people write it down and put 
it in a safe place.  I type it on RBW Groups.  I forget sometimes how the 
huge majority of participants here are readers and not posters, and I 
apologize if I come off as a self-indulgent show-off.  I do post a lot, but 
I try to post stuff that is helpful, or generally positive and/or adds to 
the balance of content.  One thing I try to NEVER do.  I never (o never 
intend to) tell anybody else what they should do.  Typing my goals here, 
and then responding to those posts makes all of you my accountability 
buddies, and it helps me.  Thanks to the RBWGroup for that.  

I promise that there is absolutely no chance I will actually do my first 
400k on April 13 unless I talk about it, a lot.  :-)

BL in EC

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 5:03:49 PM UTC-7 Jay wrote:

> Bill - that is amazing what you've already done in the first two months of 
> the year!  Happy 55th!  My favourite of your goals is summiting Mount 
> Diablo 5x on 5 different bikes.  I watch a lot of YouTube cycling videos, 
> some from California, and it looks amazing (I'm in Ontario, an hour outside 
> Toronto; I love where I live and ride, but often envious of what you have 
> there in California). 
>
> I work for a large company where it's all about goals; I get it, and 
> S.M.A.R.T. is the way to go.  That said, when I ride a bike I'm not just 
> disconnecting from technology, day-to-day problems, work, and anything else 
> that needs disconnecting from, but when I ride it's like I'm a different 
> version of myself.  This is where I get to go with the flow, not have a 
> plan (or I have one, deviate from it, and often!), pause or take a break 
> for any old reason, get really deep at times (in my mind), and at other 
> times just be present with little thoughts other than observing what's 
> around me.  I smile a lot when I ride.  I stress about nothing (99% of the 
> time).  As this feeling (state) started to evolve over years of riding, 
> I've done away with goals, for the most part.  I may have a goal of a 
> multi-day ride to a destination, and I really enjoy planning for such 
> rides; however, that is where my work-mind kicks in and I have lists, 
> plans, a calculated mindset.  I do enjoy the pre-work aspect, though on 
> those rides I let my other self lose control (not take control!).  Like I 
> said, this has evolved over a long time and I didn't realize it was 
> starting to happen until I looked back after a few years and realized it 
> did.  I wonder if when I retire, will I enjoy employing some of that 
> big-corporation thinking into cycling again?
>
> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 11:22:02 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> At the beginning of the year I listed several S.M.A.R.T. goals:
>>
>> 10,000km ridden. (on-pace, over 500 miles/month in rainy Jan and Feb)
>> Summit Mount Diablo 5 times on 5 different bikes (on pace, 2 done, one 
>> more next Saturday)
>> Put myself in the position to attempt my first 400k brevet (DONE!  I 
>> finished two 200s and the 300k yesterday)
>> Complete the Marin Mountains 200k brevet (It's in June)
>> Complete 25% of every city in Contra Costa County on Wandrer  (on pace, I 
>> knock out 100 new

[RBW] Re: Revisiting the Nitto 52f Basket Rack