[RBW] Re: Banana Sax alternate mounting, matchy matchy

[A CT Cyclist]

Looks good tell us more about the midrive electric motor you have on this 
bike

On Wednesday, June 13, 2018 at 8:47:33 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Taking a cue from Grant's plethora of front-mounted Bananas, I gave it a 
> whirl on my Lightning Bolt with a matching olive Saddlesack. He's right 
> about it loading better in the front handlebar position, it's really handy 
> up there. The combination with small Saddlesack makes a great rackless 
> fenderless summer bike which can still carry all your stuff..I highly 
> recommend it. Enjoy, matchy-matchers!
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FzKB6xVLLbZrdHRdA
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>

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[RBW] Sackville Banana Sax

[A CT Cyclist]

Hi, can any Banana Sax owners  provide the bag's dimensions? 

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[RBW] Re: New to me Sam

[A CT Cyclist]

Nice classy build. How about some build details? Is that a 52 cm frame?

On Monday, February 19, 2018 at 6:12:31 PM UTC-5, Bob Warner wrote:
>
> Greetings RBW Bunch,
> Thought I'd post my new to me Sam Hillborne!  I'm pretty excited about 
> this bike.  I'm the second owner of the frame, and just built it up with 
> parts from my recently dismantled Nordavinden (soon to be for sale)
> It's my first Riv, and based upon the maiden shake down ride today, it 
> rides like a dream.   I've read a lot about Riv bikes, and have followed 
> this forum for some time now, but did not realize what truly sublime rides 
> they are.Looking forward to many long rides this year with Sam!!
>

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[RBW] Re: First Riv/NYC RO

[A CT Cyclist]

Nice build! What was the reasoning for mounting a basket on the rear rack?

On Saturday, February 17, 2018 at 11:19:09 PM UTC-5, Jacob wrote:
>
> I've been lurking around here for awhile and became a member when I 
> ordered the bike. Built it up in December and it's such a joy to ride. 
> Thought it was time to get legit and put it up here. There got tons of 
> photos of the unboxing and build process, some close-ups, etc., but here 
> are a few full shots. I realize some of my build choices might arouse 
> suspicion. I love talking about my bike, so please, ask anything.
>
> On a side note: I know some of you are in NYC, and I have noticed a few 
> Rivendell's in the wild out here lately. Probably just a Baader-Meinhof 
> thing, but I was wondering if any of you got together (or if we even 
> should) for a meet up or something like that. My apologies if I've missed a 
> post about this very thing.
>
> Anyway, here it is.
> -Jacob
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Design your custom

[A CT Cyclist]

I look at the Cheviot a lot but the tire width limitations always keep me 
from pulling the trigger. So the mountain mixtie in 50 - 52 cm with canti 
posts has a lot of appeal .

On Tuesday, February 6, 2018 at 10:39:53 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> All this talk of Rivs you'd buy if Grant/Riv made it got me to thinking of 
> what my custom-I'll-probably-never-order would be. This is isn't outside 
> the parameters of what they currently build - no Hunqadiscers or F Frames 
> or cargo bikes - but a custom you can order from Mark Nobilette via Riv 
> today. Here's mine:
>
> I'd like something similar to the original Rivendell Mountain, now with 
> 650B wheels. All the fancy lugs and Joe Bell paint, Candy Apple Red. It'd 
> be a bit of a Suntour celebration with XC Pro cranks, derailers and cantis, 
> but with modern Shimano hubs, 8-speed cassette and Silver 2 shifters. Some 
> kinda retro brake levers from the CNC era, preferably with some red 
> anodizing. Bars are a tossup between original Riv Bullmoose and Nitto 
> Jitensha. Boy, now that I've typed this up it sounds like a really nice 
> bike! Your turn. 
>
> Joe Bernard
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cowboy Trail NE, Goatheads, tire choice

[A CT Cyclist]

Love this description by Patrick Moore.

> "The ride was sh*t. It was like riding through cold molasses 12" deep in a 
> 53 X 12 against a 40 mph headwind while sick with a 105* fever and the 
> brakes locked and your saddle way too low."

Too funny.


On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 9:50:39 PM UTC-5, WETH wrote:
>
> My son and I plan on riding several of the country's (USA) railtrails this 
> summer, including the Cowboy Trail in Nebraska.  
> http://www.bikecowboytrail.com/default.aspx
>
> Previous riders of this trail have reported in online journals that there 
> are thorns and "goatheads" in several sections that caused multiple flats 
> or made folks happy they used tubeless tires.  I'm an Easterner who has no 
> goathead experience.  I also do not run tubeless tires and do not own any 
> tubeless compatible rims.  I also would rather not mess with sealant in my 
> tubes.  
>
> What, if any, 700x35-40 tires have proved goathead resistant with tubes 
> and no sealant in the tubes? Schwalbe  Marathon Mondials?  
>
> Has anyone ridden the entirety of the Cowboy Trail who can substantiate 
> the severity of  goatheads along the way? Recommend tires? 
>
> The Riv bikes we will be riding have Little Big Bens. Should I stick with 
> those, bring a gross of tubes, and try to improve my flat fixing time?
>
> Thanks,
> Erl
> Kensington, MD
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Cheviot

[A CT Cyclist]

I love the color! Whats the width of the Fatty Rumpkins? I'm interested to 
see how the fenders fit. I saw a Cheviot at FFD this past fall and the 
wheelbase was much longer than it appears on line.















On Wednesday, January 10, 2018 at 9:21:57 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I interrupt my recent hiatus because A. It seemed stupid, B. I promised I 
> would show off my new Cheviot, and C. Maybe this will serve as 
> encouragement for anyone on the fence about a shiney new Riv to take the 
> jump. Apologies for the lousy indoor shots, I finally got the build 
> finished and just did some laps around the block after sunset. I'll had a 
> sunny outdoor album to this thread soon. 
>
> RBW Blue Cheviot 55cm.
> Nitto stem and Choco bars.
> Stock seatpost and my trusty Brooks B17 ti saddle.
> Tektro R559 brakes and those curvy Tektro levers Riv sells (the copy 
> mentions that they have kind of a 'brake from the hoods' position unusual 
> for mtb levers, and this is immediately noticeable. Very nice levers).
> Ergon grips, German mirror. 
> Velocity Synergy 650B wheelset from a listmember, LX rear, some kinda 
> Shimano dynohub front, some kinda B light from another member (thanks, 
> members!)
> Fatty Rumpkin tires with the lovely (and apparently accidental) red-ish 
> brown sidewalls. Trivia: the blue label on the tires looks nifty on the 
> blue frame. Sweet!
> 17t single cog located with two Gear Clamps, Paul Melvin tensioner.
> Sugini Quickbeam-ish double, 40-26.
> 8-speed chain..don't use 9-speed on this setup, it fits too tight on the 
> single cog.
> MKS Sylvan Touring pedals.
>
> Verdict: It's fantastic! Of course this is an extremely limited first 
> impression, but it feels light and nimble like other Riv road-ish bikes 
> I've owned. My snap judgment is more Hilsen than Appaloosa, but that could 
> be my brain biasing towards looking at road brakes whole I'm pedaling..who 
> knows??
>
> My first impression of the 2-speed arrangement is that it's a singlespeed 
> and I'll probably never bother to stop and "shift". I purposely went this 
> direction because I've gotten maddenly out of shape the last couple years 
> and riding ebikes only exaserbated the problem, so I intend to grind out 
> the big gear as much as possible. But it's nice to know the granny is there 
> if I really need it. Fortunately I've just moved from the monster hill I 
> was living on, or I wouldn't have even attempted this. 
>
> The plan right now - especially since I also just bought Patrick the 
> Deacon's Haul-a-Day - is to keep this on the minimalist end with no racks. 
> I have some shorty wood fenders coming which is probably pushing the 
> minimalist thing too far for a lugged steel bike with full eyelets, but I 
> saw that setup once on a Specialized Langster fixie and for some reason I 
> like the look. 
> Get a Cheviot!  
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/879LccVHzlW0mRsG3
>
> Here's the Haul-a-Day, also not great shots. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HIZdXsNfDPnnGDdb2
>
> Joe Bernard
> Novato CA. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: If you have ever lusted after Woody fenders . . .

[A CT Cyclist]

I've often wondered if wooden fenders would be less likely to clog up with 
frozen gunk since they would be less likely to conduct the cold. Even Sks with 
their chromoplastic material Which probably prevents cracking, must aid in the 
conducting of cold. Of coarse ata a certain point it doesn't matter everything 
is going to frerze

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[RBW] Re: If you have ever lusted after Woody fenders . . .

[A CT Cyclist]

I'd love to see pic of the San Marcos with the Woody fenders.  How do the 
Woodys hold up in the weather? Have you ever ridden with them on a slushy 
salt treated road?

On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-5, Ann L wrote:
>
> They are having a holiday sale with $27 to $37 off.  I have them on my San 
> Marcos and love them.  I just placed an order for my Appaloosa.  
> https://www.woodysfenders.com/
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: The RBW Website has a new look...

[A CT Cyclist]

Another loss is the size of the images. They can no longer be enlarged just 
zoomed in on. Personally I miss the larger images.

On Monday, November 6, 2017 at 2:45:42 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> It looks like Riv has switched their website again.  It looks the same but 
> different.  The big loss is staff bikes, but I expect that will be back 
> eventually.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[A CT Cyclist]

The reason why I asked for an actual measurement was for comparison to the 
bikes that I ride now. So why did you sell your Appaloosa? 

On Friday, November 24, 2017 at 12:52:57 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'm not clear why you need to actual tt measurement..it won't tell you 
> anything about reach. The best way to size an Appaloosa is by virtual 
> horizontal tt, plus a visualization of how much seatpost will show on a 
> 51cm c-to-t seattube. 
>
> For reference, I have a 79-ish pbh and my 51 Appa fit great with Albas, 
> and even did ok with Noodles. The reach to the drops was a bit of a 
> stretch, but I never use them..the hoods position was great. 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[A CT Cyclist]

Hi Andrew, couple of questions. What is the teeth count on the chainrings 
and the cassette? Can you please measure the actual length of the top tube 
not the effective. Here in Connecticut we don't have any local Riv dealers 
so I've never had the opportunity to ride one and get a feel for the size 
and fit of a 51 cm. 

On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 8:57:12 PM UTC-5, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> $1700 plus shipped

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[RBW] Re: FS 51 Joe Appaloosa silver

[A CT Cyclist]

I might be interested but need a few details please. For the $1800 price 
everything in the picture? How about a couple more pics?

On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 12:37:43 PM UTC-4, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> A proper listing. Complete for $1800 plus shipping, F/f/hs and crank for 
> $1000 plus shipping. 
> Velocity Cliffhanger wheels, schwalbe big bens 
> MAP bars, nitto technomic 9cm , shimano 9 speed bar ends on thumbies
> XT brakes
> XT rear mech. Deore front 
>  3x deore crank 
>
> https://www.flickr.com/gp/43976096@N08/x7MdQ4
>

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[RBW] Re: 3-Speed MTBing Resources?

[A CT Cyclist]

Their is a blogger in Minnesota who used to ride an Alfine w/ a Gates belt 
then he had a custom bike built to run with disc brakes, Gates belt and a 
Rolhoff hub.
https://fourseasoncycling.com/2016/01/31/my-commuter-bike-design-explained/ 

Vic of TheLazyRandonneur.com a now defunct blog was a big proponent of IGH 
hubs on MTB. He rode with Alfine and Rolhoff hubs.



 

















After 4 years of all kinds of riding he open up this Alfine 8 speed hub to 
service and found it was perfectly fine. 



On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:10:28 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Continuing to toy, and one alluring concept is going with a three speed 
> hub. I’ve searched around a bit and not found much (I know of Shaw’s 
> 3-Speed Society) specific to MTBing with 3-speed IGH. Anyone know of 
> anything? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: 3-Speed MTBing Resources?

[A CT Cyclist]

On my bike built for winter conditions I have a Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub 
with a kick brake and a front rim brake for fair weather and back up. You 
have to have a horizontal drop out to use the kick brake because of the 
risk of pulling the wheel out of a vertical drop out. Its also cleaner? 
more simple to run the IGH with out the need for a chain tensioner. I have 
never experienced or should I say perceived any friction in any of the 
gears.

In regards to tolerance to wet conditions no problems so far. Also I'd like 
to note that People have been riding old 3 speed bikes for years all around 
the world in all sorts of conditions. Anyone know what the dutch bicycles 
use for IGH?

Finally  Heinz Stücke used a Torpedo hub in his 3 speed that he traveled 
the world with. 
http://www.bikechina.com


PS I was glad someone brought up the issue of needing a fork designed with 
intention of using a drum brake.  If you google it you will find numerous 
cautionary tales about using said drum brake on a "regular fork".

On Sunday, November 5, 2017 at 6:10:28 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Continuing to toy, and one alluring concept is going with a three speed 
> hub. I’ve searched around a bit and not found much (I know of Shaw’s 
> 3-Speed Society) specific to MTBing with 3-speed IGH. Anyone know of 
> anything? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: FS: Carradice Cadet

[A CT Cyclist]

I like the cat in the second photo it helps indicate the size of the bag!
On Friday, November 3, 2017 at 2:20:55 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Patrick's search for a Longflap reminded me that I have a saddlebag I'm 
> not using (I offered it to him first). Sold to me NOS a couple years ago; I 
> bought extra long straps and used it minimally on dry days. I tend to ride 
> with a bar- and trunk-bag, so this only saw service for bigger loads I 
> don't usually carry. 
> $70 shipped, cat not included.
>
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo CA. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: German Mirror Basket Mount

[A CT Cyclist]

Thanks for the pics.  I've seen the mirror mounted on the head tube like 
that. The basket seems like a better way to go since it gets the mirror 
further out.

On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 11:43:25 AM UTC-4, TampaTech wrote:
>
> Sorry for the delay.  I have been out of town.  I just threw the mirror on 
> my basket to see if I would like it there.  I figured I'd find a more 
> elegant solution if it worked well.  That was a thousand miles ago and it's 
> still there.  One of these days...
>
> Here's a few pictures.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/iLqsYeAwHlkEmGe32
>
> On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 11:06:11 AM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> Can you post some pictures?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: German Mirror Basket Mount

[A CT Cyclist]

Can you post some pictures?

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[RBW] Trigger shifters on swept-back bars - Jones or others

[A CT Cyclist]

Funny you should ask, I've been thinking about the same thing. I'm looking at 
the Sun race trigger shifters for 10 speed road because they look clean and 
would be compatible with my shimano road derailleur. Has anyone used trigger 
shifters from them. If I was building the bike up from scratch I think I would 
go with Dram triggers.

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[RBW] Re: NYC Century on Cheviot

[A CT Cyclist]

Wow, nice job. I never thought the five boroughs ride was a century but 
makes since when I look at the GPS map you posted. 
I had the same trouble with my chain dropping to the outside when I made my 
triple crank into a 1 x 9.  I'm running a 36 tooth chainring that I picked 
up at the LBS it's probably off a 10 speed compact. I looked into getting a 
narrow wide chainring but Race Face (the other maker) doesn't make a 36 
tooth 110 bcd narrow wide and Wolf tooth is kind of pricey at $75. I tried 
the Sugino chainring guard that Riv sells but the chain would drop and get 
stuck between the chainring and guard. Wolf Tooth Components recommends 
using a 10 speed chain with the narrow wide chainring even if you have 9 
speeds so I tried that. It helped for a while but the ultimate fix for me 
was using my outer chainring with the teeth filed off. It also looks nicer 
than the plain sugino chainring guard.

On Tuesday, September 12, 2017 at 12:13:25 AM UTC-4, Antone Könst wrote:
>
> I did my first organized Century through the beautiful and not so 
> beautiful 5 boroughs yesterday on my trusty steed (or, ewe?), and enjoyed 
> it immensely.   
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6KOXijRK3VRRXNDeTNjc0U3eG8  
>
> I am a bike commuter, I don't get to do many rides, and typically the most 
> adventure I have on the Chev is taking trails home through Prospect 
> Park...nothing crazy.  But, I love biking so I figured 'what's 100 miles? 
> Sounds easy'... I didn't train or prepare in any way besides indulging in 
> more calories than usual the night before, and I bought a padded bib (thank 
> god).   In retrospect I'm glad I didn't spend a bunch of time doing long 
> rides in preparation for this (well, doing more long rides sounds good but 
> I'm glad I didn't 'train'), because my Chev kept me comfortable all the way 
> back to my front door over plenty of crappy roads, while the lycra guys 
> next to me were complaining about their arms.  I think I was somewhere in 
> the back of the front, only because I was the odd man out on my steel 
> frame, everyone else was on carbon and clipless taking breaks and then 
> catching up and passing me again as I steadily chugged along trying to keep 
> up!  I couldn't find the end so I just did the last 5 miles back to my 
> apartment.
>
> It was super great to do this around the Boroughs, especially as a 
> resident...it's a massive massive city and every part is beautiful.   Would 
> highly recommend to city commuters and visitors who are willing to run red 
> lights and weave through traffic...otherwise I think it would be even 
> slower than it was which could be frustrating.   
>
> *The screenshot of my map has one glaring mistake - that it took 16 hours! 
>  We left Prospect Park at 6:30 and I finished at 3:20, so I'm guessing I 
> left 'Ride with GPS' on during the night before after checking the route. 
>  But at 9 hours it still probably seems very slow in comparison to a 
> non-urban century where you're free to ride for more than a few blocks 
> before stopping, I hope to do that soon. 
>
> BIKE:
> My set-up was very comfortable - I'm 6'1, 220, and like I said not 
> training or doing long rides often, it was still comfortable the whole time 
> thanks to the bike's set-up. 
> The 58cm Bosco's hand positions were useful at different times and my 
> Compass tires kept the road noise at bay on the park paths that were 
> slowing the road bikes down.  I started first 30 miles at a very low PSI, 
> around 25, by accident (it was early!) and pumped up to 60 later.  Was glad 
> to have a dynamo front and back light set-up with all the traffic.  My Big 
> Blue Sac in a Wald basket on a Surly 6 Pack held more coconut water and 
> bananas than I needed, but had there not been checkpoints I would have been 
> well prepared   :-) 
> My Paul Racer's seemed to get less effective as the ride went on - can 
> someone explain?  I hadn't adjusted them prior. 
> I'm running just one chainring up front and my chain fell off 3 times - 
> how do I avoid this? I haven't adjusted my rear d. since taking off the 
> larger chainring. 
>
> Anyhow, I certainly wouldn't have done this ride if I wasn't looking for 
> ways to get on my Cheviot for longer, which is partly how I justified the 
> Rivendell.  Now I'm just very sore. 
>

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[RBW] First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[A CT Cyclist]

What size wheels does it take? Do you have a link for the original frame specs?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

Thanks for the info. It seems that I have an incorrect bolt that works
until you want to use a Sheldon Fender nut. It makes me wonder if the
brakes had been returned and resold
 I can't remember where I purchased them. I've used a diorama before but
with slightly bigger tires the clearances are tighter and I'm not
comfortable with the nut from the durama sticking out on the inside of the
fender. When I bought the Honjos I purchased a special bracket to hang from
the brake bolt. I can put this bracket anywhere since I have to drill all
the holes, which will allow me to place the fender as far forward as I
want. I could just hang it off the front of the fork and be down with it
but I do have a front rack attached there as well.


On Sep 9, 2017 11:19 AM, "ascpgh" <asc@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> *Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a
>> recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is
>> a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?*
>
>
> Yes. The bolt head on mine came fitted (snugged?) into the face of the
> cross bridge supporting both pivots and arms, the threaded shaft projecting
> rearward with enough length to extend almost through the fork crown. I
> never disassembled it to see if it is threaded through that plate or press
> fit.
>
> The long sleeve, small head nut going in from the back of the crown, a
> recess there permitting the head to seat fully below the surface, viewed
> from the side (use of the fender nut changes that). My picture has the
> fender nut still in place of the recessed nut. I was happier to use a
> daruma and have the mounting point supporting the fender farther forward.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 10:34:25 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> Yes I bought them new and no they aren't missing parts. I agree the bolt
>> does look different from the one in the Pauls product photo. I didn't
>> purchase the brakes from Pauls directly it makes more since shipping wise
>> to purchase a bit closer to home.
>>
>> Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a
>> recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is
>> a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 9:18:01 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your
>>> pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components
>>> website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package,
>>> well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces,
>>> I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the
>>> hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I
>>> got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and
>>> interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the
>>> part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website,
>>> just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:03:30 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together
>>>> right.  And may be missing hardware.
>>>
>>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

Yes I bought them new and no they aren't missing parts. I agree the bolt 
does look different from the one in the Pauls product photo. I didn't 
purchase the brakes from Pauls directly it makes more since shipping wise 
to purchase a bit closer to home. 

Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a 
recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is 
a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 9:18:01 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your 
> pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components 
> website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package, 
> well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces, 
> I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the 
> hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I 
> got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and 
> interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the 
> part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website, 
> just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck. 
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:03:30 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>
>> Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right. 
>>  And may be missing hardware.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-K9BAG2SPBoI/WbLeIEqbUmI/CA0/8SPmgAQ0C741Qpn3D1LBXsL7i_hjPvfZQCLcBGAs/s1600/0907171958a.jpg>
 
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-abSHZr2uMkg/WbLeb7ApO3I/CA4/4EmOqSWD7xIc_mSFmd6UZKruqiL8O4FJACLcBGAs/s1600/0907171959.jpg>

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bIm4t3V_fCw/WbLhGlHnzhI/CBQ/QCZSwJRdbmYq-6gF1ciUO6h65FR1DgFcQCLcBGAs/s1600/0907172001_Burst02.jpg>
 
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6RR9S4ZqFuw/WbLeloCks5I/CA8/MWogpfltIaw7zJ-JeDiK-4b4iQRrY-8BQCLcBGAs/s1600/0907172002.jpg>
 
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PpXrtupeLbU/WbLf73qA2qI/CBE/5r8hVOrIhQITSgLdcp-8Bdt0fIniumkEQCLcBGAs/s1600/0907172004_Burst01.jpg>















The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
brakes operation. 
Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
threaded into it for fender mounting.












On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:14:16 PM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my 
> email, except the nut and bolt.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist <amee...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>>
>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
>> brakes operation. 
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with 
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
>>>> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>>>>
>>>> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>>>>
>>>> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
>>>> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HerK2MFP01PaKqUvuBAnXmwtf49pcuw73MT4soUrqEwfLyULoWApcU4oYhgTYnLKsGrHhvmktN2loQES52xmC_yE8e0e8CrCkWa4meKDF-8FWyie5Q0aBS097ZCD2FQBubUrZyEw-epManPP4FKRMqfBfypMgZG3-EzNppY8LAtgoYmYVovDEuvgfFvWZSOG_v7lK4Ad2fcs7WJ64wPtT5II9J07pjsHMpavozJJcBtINyCT6U_ts8DMzbbnutN-5hfopFSKCJEk3CLhnlX20bBFO9PWuEfi1ouTFpIiAuXCNbTSqE5ynwy3ICXFTo-PnbgcsmjbQQl4Q7Ul5pigkyOAFq1veJqAK6vC-UkJqCG9zv2AungZJVZPybziTEfsqGsywP5jbTcwY25S-jpDLxtxtrqH3IrcnByWNawwfqSwXXHceg3w_PpPzmva3sI1qnzlGcvvRvg5S-Bu2oqNQAYYeiml2NwNjediP7xJtE2VoCytWCpfgpe3fXj7SUGRPNS0B11n9U8U4Pz9WVvRgHQN-GjdiiP78da_ZeGPOnB_92H7y4GvUkJbgB-JyZSLv9vhUup7XIlgMADTfoXQCj9WKzvAMkSmKPpCIVODKzXOzCXv6cUT=w1054-h795-no>
>>>>
>>>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO8Os2zvUNCLO345HL4nZoUqZQ-_iTIg_32qqm->
>>>>
>>>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO8Os2zvUNCLO345HL4nZoUqZQ-_iTIg_32qqm->
>>>>
>>>> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. 
>>>> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere

[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
brakes operation. 
Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
threaded into it for fender mounting.



On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
>> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>>
>> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>>
>> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
>> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HerK2MFP01PaKqUvuBAnXmwtf49pcuw73MT4soUrqEwfLyULoWApcU4oYhgTYnLKsGrHhvmktN2loQES52xmC_yE8e0e8CrCkWa4meKDF-8FWyie5Q0aBS097ZCD2FQBubUrZyEw-epManPP4FKRMqfBfypMgZG3-EzNppY8LAtgoYmYVovDEuvgfFvWZSOG_v7lK4Ad2fcs7WJ64wPtT5II9J07pjsHMpavozJJcBtINyCT6U_ts8DMzbbnutN-5hfopFSKCJEk3CLhnlX20bBFO9PWuEfi1ouTFpIiAuXCNbTSqE5ynwy3ICXFTo-PnbgcsmjbQQl4Q7Ul5pigkyOAFq1veJqAK6vC-UkJqCG9zv2AungZJVZPybziTEfsqGsywP5jbTcwY25S-jpDLxtxtrqH3IrcnByWNawwfqSwXXHceg3w_PpPzmva3sI1qnzlGcvvRvg5S-Bu2oqNQAYYeiml2NwNjediP7xJtE2VoCytWCpfgpe3fXj7SUGRPNS0B11n9U8U4Pz9WVvRgHQN-GjdiiP78da_ZeGPOnB_92H7y4GvUkJbgB-JyZSLv9vhUup7XIlgMADTfoXQCj9WKzvAMkSmKPpCIVODKzXOzCXv6cUT=w1054-h795-no>
>>
>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO8Os2zvUNCLO345HL4nZoUqZQ-_iTIg_32qqm->
>>
>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipO8Os2zvUNCLO345HL4nZoUqZQ-_iTIg_32qqm->
>>
>> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. 
>> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere 
>> with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see 
>> that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also 
>> note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit 
>> wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in 
>> the picture below.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g_XohNcOydbiFnGaaYGCBqBVKTLt7mM4Z25lKn-x_NbqJPxI5Rs1d0Last4BTH2Ivu7JfcQDuOI5dtWtMqeSdr3HzBvGvJJvQS1W7hkUWzmcM8XJSeKAvLmwGn3p535JSqHXGjZUFbADZJYjhDCLUoP2iKDPCjxQGCXVTdxxU6ilKjIEmGzxM5IlGCe5czL3XS3WhFnncp9DNyT4mS8ngv_RACNtxS0kCcZQHQsyj7ZnYaLlENjeCZPk6QEwauDSmV_7yN9UFQvaWgxOUXST5uMzcxT68z3L1GKyAsFtJs7Co2_ZHmLLuHeqI5esBIjrYLlqxOcSAJeyouEY5u8hJy1KrZ3AhqHtb5BgGPFKiV-8uGLZnCkKvM6nrR0aCLFnwI9eX3p9wWj1u9FD5dPc153qFoXOJ8dHmYJkCOY2Fygs8VpsQ_ZDcv_izkKgf5J1mafsJdub1ZPQKO0WSUyKiwhr-uYtiRKBOVYPlCh_CnlN8v9QW3TglSkbbO7zOxMX_FKEF40Pyhrra7lqVfiDrnc24XazF1pjDdMUYt87S87AOV4MqQcuXW87DiIR3T50Eu9fd_bLdl6f8_6Xh577mUlu8ryG4F7h4xmwfPsAWwSoziVqTDHp=w700-h881-no>
>>
>> Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 
>> photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes 
>> operation.
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with 
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>> The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt 
>> kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 
>> $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the 
>> local hardware store.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other 
>>> brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.
>>
>>
<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HerK2MFP01PaKqUvuBAnXmwtf49pcuw73MT4soUrqEwfLyULoWApcU4oYhgTYnLKsGrHhvmktN2loQES52xmC_yE8e0e8CrCkWa4meKDF-8FWyie5Q0aBS097ZCD2FQBubUrZyEw-epManPP4FKRMqfBfypMgZG3-EzNppY8LAtgoYmYVovDEuvgfFvWZSOG_v7lK4Ad2fcs7WJ64wPtT5II9J07pjsHMpavozJJcBtINyCT6U_ts8DMzb

[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words .

This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
directly into it, no nuts involved.





This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The 
head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with 
the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that 
there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note 
that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider 
so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 
picture below.



Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 
photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes 
operation.



Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
threaded into it for fender mounting.


The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt 
kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 
$14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the local 
hardware store.








On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>
> As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other 
> brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.

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[RBW] Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

Correct me if wrong but you can't use Sheldon fender nuts with Paul Racer 
brakes in the front because the recessed bolt  threads into the brake from 
behind the fork. The bolt threads directly into the back of the brake. If 
anyone has experience with these brakes and Sheldon fender nuts let me 
know. I just don't see any way that a Sheldon nut can work. On almost any 
other brake that is mounted through the center of the fork the bolt goes 
from front to back with a recessed nut tightening it all together. 

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Platform Pedals

[A CT Cyclist]

Those Speedplay Brass Knuckles look nice but they are rather pricey!  $175 
for this beautifully polished pedal, too bad it won't stay pretty for long.
[image: Speedplay Ships Brass Knuckles, Colorful Flats That Will Take a 
Beating]


On Sunday, September 3, 2017 at 11:31:41 AM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> Just like the subject implies, what are your favorite platform pedals and 
> why?
>

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[RBW] Favorite Platform Pedals

[A CT Cyclist]

Just like the subject implies, what are your favorite platform pedals and 
why?

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[RBW] Platform Pedal Favorites

[A CT Cyclist]

Just like the subject suggests, what are your favorite platform pedals and 
why?

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[RBW] Musa Mitts

[A CT Cyclist]

I really wanted a pair, but they sold out before I could order a pair. And 
now they are forever no more.  I searched the internet for some sort of 
over mitten that I could slip on over my hi-viz gloves when needed but alas 
my search has been fruitless. Anybody want to sell their Musa Mitts?

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[RBW] Re: What is this and how do I get it off my stem?

[A CT Cyclist]

Ok, I just have to ask. Why are you using a Technomic stem when you clearly 
don't need all that height? I don't think I've ever seen a threaded stem 
inserted that far!

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 3:29:46 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Came off my Sam. Exposed stem is clean as you can see.clean. Stem sunk 
> into steerer tube has some surface corrosion of some sort on the aluminum 
> Technomic deluxe them. How do I get the corrosion off the stem and restore 
> it to its original lustre?

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[RBW] choco bullmoose bars

[A CT Cyclist]

Can anyone on the list provide the following stats for the Choco bullmoose 
bars. How much extension do they have? How much height does the stem 
provide? For instance a Technomic stem might be 50 to 120 mm long and have 
a minimum insertion of 225 mm from the headset.

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[RBW] Re: Hub area bag/rack mounting hacks

[A CT Cyclist]

Nice job. Looks much more user friendly.

On Saturday, August 27, 2016 at 9:11:53 AM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
>
> I've finally procured a pair of hub area bags to go with my hub area rack 
> - jumped on 'em as soon as olive green came back in stock, and I mounted 
> them up with the included nylon strap. I'm struggling with wanting to 
> improve the mounting solution in some way - it's not necessary, but I love 
> trying to make things work differently - sometimes different = better and 
> sometimes different = I kept myself occupied working on this thing and 
> that's good enough.
>
> I've played around with multiple nylon straps, d-rings, mini-carabiners, 
> paracord and assorted clips. Have any of you tried anything besides a 
> single nylon strap looped through and snugged down? What's worked and what 
> hasn't?
>
> -Jeff
> Silver Spring, MD
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender suggestions for a 26" wheeled Atlantis

[A CT Cyclist]

I just checked Velo Orange's site and they have smooth aluminum 60 cm 
fenders for 26" wheels. Also as I was just discussing in another post  I 
recently mounted a pair of SKS P65 for 26" x 2.35 tires.

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 4:31:50 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
> Building upthe Atlantis frame I  bought here a few weeks ago and I've 
> happened upon a rather odd problem. Fender selection; or more precisely 
> lack there of! It's easy to find fenders for 26"wheels, but they all tend 
> to fall into either the balloon tire or mountain bike relms. The Atlantis 
> should take a medium width fender, I thought  VO had some at one point, but 
> no longer if they did. I was really leaning towards a Honjo type look, but 
> other then Wald and a few vintage things on ebay, I am coming up with 
> nothing!
> Suggestions!?

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[RBW] Re: Rack Options

[A CT Cyclist]

I don't know, if you click on the photo of the rack you can see how bulky 
the rack is where the tang slides up and down to fit different size bikes. 
The fact that the rack is so bulky at that point and the SKS fender stays 
come right down the middle of the of the wheel makes it all too much to fit 
on a single eyelet. It occurs to me while I'm typing this that the first 
part of the fender stays V usually lands at about 1:00 but I rotated the 
fender a little so it wouldn't fall as far down behind the rear tire and so 
I could have full coverage in front of the bottom bracket. Essentially I 
cut the part of the fender with the cut out for the front derailleur off 
since I don't have one. Anyway that moved the front part of the V to about 
12:00. 

I hope that isn't too confusing, I think either way those stays and that 
rack aren't going to play well. Do you have some pictures of your rack and 
sks bike set up?

On Friday, eptember 2, 2016 at 11:58:39 AM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> Besides the Nitto and Clem racks that Riv sells, what rear rack does 
> everyone use with the SKS fenders? I recently changed the fenders on my 
> Bridgestone and found that the V shaped fenders stays of the SKS fenders 
> weren't compatible with my existing rack since they share the same braze 
> on. The rack tangs are very thick and there's just too much overlap with 
> the v stays. Here is a picture of the Biria rack. 
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n3T_ZmS-xsk/V8mhDcnUKrI/A80/qi3LqITGXzkRj-SiSVtLAfZQd8mSdF4AwCLcB/s1600/rack.jpg>
>

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[RBW] Rack Options

[A CT Cyclist]

Besides the Nitto and Clem racks that Riv sells, what rear rack does 
everyone use with the SKS fenders? I recently changed the fenders on my 
Bridgestone and found that the V shaped fenders stays of the SKS fenders 
weren't compatible with my existing rack since they share the same braze 
on. The rack tangs are very thick and there's just too much overlap with 
the v stays. Here is a picture of the Biria rack. 



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[RBW] Re: Saddle recommendations for old lady butts

[A CT Cyclist]

Not all "Old Lady butts", are the same. Saddle preference is highly 
personal even for older women.  All the same parameters are valid, riding 
position, length of ride, conditioning to bicycle saddles in general. 
Please don't ask the group to make a recommendation based on your "Old Lady 
butt" description. 

On Tuesday, August 2, 2016 at 6:49:06 PM UTC-4, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> I'd like to bike with my Mom more, but she complains of a sore tush 
> regularly. She tends toward the gel seats but these really don't seem to 
> help. 
>
> Considering getting her a sprung Brooks. Which one should I start with? 
> Other recommendations?
>
> Thanks folks!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Chronicles

[A CT Cyclist]

If you just want to get the bars higher on the Betty Foy, try a Nitto MT-10 
dirt drop stem. This is a taller version of the dirt drops and gives way 
more height than the regular dirt drops. This stem gets the bars higher 
than the 6 inches of rise available with the Technomic stem or the 7 inches 
of rise gained with either the regular dirt drop stem or the Periscopa 
(Nitto FU 82) which has a 25.4 mm clamp area. As you can see in the link 
provide, you can get them for $57.99 shipped.   
http://www.benscycle.com/p-2500-nitto-dirt-drop-mt-10-riser-quill-stem.aspx 

On Sunday, July 24, 2016 at 4:10:46 PM UTC-4, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> A terrible thing happened this vacation. I lent my Betty Foy, the bike I 
> swore was perfect in every way possible, to a relative and rode my 
> husband's 52 Clem. I swear I didn't mean to cheat, and it was only a few 
> rides, but alas, I'm now feeling dissatisfied with my Albatross bars and 
> have an unhealthy desire to have whatever those bars on the Clem are. It's 
> so unexpected; as I said, it was just a few rides, but now my bars feel so 
> LOW. They're maxed out as high as I can put them, so what else is there to 
> do? I am leery of changing bars because there are all these SIZES and 
> MEASUREMENTS and talk of the bars being closer to you and top tube length, 
> blah blah. Not a language I speak. I only understand that those are 
> comfortable bars and I want them on my bike, but I don't know which bars 
> and if they will work, and it looks like a lot of work and expense to make 
> the swap. I've thought I may call Riv and chat with them, but I always get 
> starstruck and tongue-tied when I call them. 
>
> So, I come to you.
>
> I have a 55 Betty with Albatross bars. 
> 1. Can a Bosco-type bar work? What about all this top tube talk? 
> 2. What is really the difference between Bosco and Bullmoose? 
> 3. How do you choose the sizes?
> 4. Why is the Bullmoose so expensive compared to Bosco?
> 5. I have a steep uphill commute home from the boys' school. Can you stand 
> up and pedal/climb with a Bosco bar?
> 6. Am I going to mess up all the other stuff I like about the fit of my 
> Betty if I change bars?
>
> If I'm better off calling Riv, I'll do it. But if you have sage advice 
> prior to me making that awkward phone call, I'll take it. Ha!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frameset, Two Wheelsets, Bosco Bullmoose Bars

[A CT Cyclist]

Hi Bill, can you tell us more about the frame bag?  What length top tube 
will it fit?  

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 2:37:40 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The combination of two big Rivendell Purchases (one Appaloosa and one 
> HubbaHubbaH tandem) has put me into an urgent storage situation.  I need to 
> make two or three bikes go away.  Up for sale is my Clemmish bike that the 
> Appaloosa has pushed into redundancy.
>
> It is a 22" frame size (56cm) 1987 Schwinn Paramountain.  I purchased it 
> on eBay for $400.  I overhauled it and set it up with a Bosco Bullmoose 
> handlebar, and used it as a commute/camping bike for a while.  I then 
> re-overhauled it, and took the frame to Ed Litton for some useful braze ons 
> for racks and fenders.  I intended to go get it powdercoated, but I've 
> decided to skip that step and let you do it. Here's a shot of the whole 
> bike: 
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/17402486242
>
> I'm resigned to the notion that I can't get out of it anywhere near what I 
> have into it, so I'm just going to part out a few subsystems and absorb the 
> rest into inventory.  Here's what is for sale:
>
> 1.  Bosco Bullmoose Handlebars.  58cm.  $115 shipped.  $100 local pickup
> 2.  Frame + Fork + Headset + Seatpost + Suntour Rollercam brakes + 
> Brakelevers.  $150 shipped.  $130 local pickup
> 3.  Velo Orange Stainless Steel 26" x 60mm fenders.  $40 shipped.  $30 
> local pickup
> 4.  Ruthworks Custom Framebag.  $80 shipped
> 5.  Wheelset #1.  Bontrager Rims (32h, black with machined sidewalls + 
> eyelets).  SP Dynamo front hub.  Ultegra 6600 rear hub (130mm).  DT 14/15 
> spokes, brass nipples.  No Skewers.  $200 shipped.  $180 local pickup. 
>  this wheelset is not in the picture of the complete bike.  
> 6.  Wheelset #2.  Araya RM-25 rims (36h).  Unusual Fisher branded sealed 
> bearing hubs (freewheel rear).  100/130 OLD.  $100 shipped.  $80 local 
> pickup.
>
> Let me know if any of this interests you.  Wheelset #1 I think is a great 
> setup for anybody wanting to convert their 80s MTB to a Rat Trap Pass 
> dynamo bike.  If I can bundle some things together and make you a deal, 
> I'll be happy to try to do that for you.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Edison Tail light

[A CT Cyclist]

I know the topics of battery operated fender mount tail lights has been 
discussed before, but I don't recall seeing anything about the Edison Tail 
light from Soma. Does anyone have any experience with this particular tail 
light? Namely how bright is it? 

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[RBW] Re: Choco Norm Handlebars

[A CT Cyclist]

Nobody on the list using the Choco Norms? What about the Choco Bull Moose? 
I'm familiar with the Alba's, how do they compare?

On Wednesday, June 29, 2016 at 10:32:53 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about putting some different handlebars on my Bridgestone 
> MB-2. I'd like to get some feedback regarding the Choco Norm Handlebars. 
>

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[RBW] Choco Norm Handlebars

[A CT Cyclist]

I'm thinking about putting some different handlebars on my Bridgestone 
MB-2. I'd like to get some feedback regarding the Choco Norm Handlebars. 

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Re: [RBW] Leather saddle bleed

[A CT Cyclist]

Thanks, I'm leaning towards the honey b17 imperial

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:09 AM, Avery Wilson  wrote:

> I have a honey B17 regular. Bought it new and I've had it on 3 bikes and
> 6-7k miles. It's really comfortable to me, and I don't recall ever having a
> problem with dye bleeding out, and I certainly don't now.  I usually wear
> jeans or khaki cargo shorts, so I'd notice on my shorts if it were a
> problem. Never had a black leather saddle.
>
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Re: [RBW] Leather saddle bleed

[A CT Cyclist]

Nope, not my first leather saddle, remember I'm the OP with the black
leather saddle staining light colored clothing.  I have a b68 on my more
upright bike and the saddle in question is b17 Imperial which I
inadvertently got furniture polish on. I believe that was the catalyst for
the bleed, although I realize there is always the potential for the dye to
come off of any leather saddle. From what I've read and seen it seems like
the black saddles are the worse offenders. Does anyone have any experience
with the honey color staining light colored clothing?

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 7:39 AM, Ron Mc <bulldog...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> also going to add a caveat, which I used yesterday when seeing photos of a
> classic lightweight upright mixte sporting a narrow road saddle - saddle
> choice is a Very Personal thing.
> Also got to agree with Joe that the question of who is breaking in whom is
> not always clear...
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 19, 2016 at 6:25:53 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> Fair question.  I am a big boy, 6'3", 210 lbs.  (not too much blimper
>> than the 190 fighting trim when I was 19 and running the marine corps PAT,
>> wow, 40 years ago).
>> Will also add where the Special was inadequate was on my upright bike.
>> On my moustache cockpit bike, I'm still running a Special after several
>> thousand miles.  So riding position is a factor in needing the extra 2mm
>> leather thickness in a Select. On my drop-bar road bike, Rivet Indy remains
>> my preference for fit, and wouldn't want the shape of a B17 here.
>>
>> On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 8:12:22 PM UTC-5, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>>
>>> Hope this isn't too personal but how much do you guys weigh. Also I
>>> tried a Cambium today it was too hard for me.
>>>
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Leather saddle bleed

[A CT Cyclist]

Hope this isn't too personal but how much do you guys weigh. Also I tried a
Cambium today it was too hard for me.

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 8:43 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Seconding what Ron said, my Select is noticeably more comfortable than a
> Special and Regular I own (with the disclaimer that they're all pretty
> great). One thing I found interesting is that it was very good right out of
> the box, which is a big deal for me because I'm not a high mileage rider.
> If a Brooks comes to me needing major break-in time, it could take a good
> year to get there.
>
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Re: [RBW] Leather saddle bleed

[A CT Cyclist]

Ok spelling error, but I think you know what I meant, context and all. I
know that the select isn't dyed that's why  I'm considering it. Has anyone
tried a Select?  Is the leather hard to break in. How about the honey
colored saddles, do they bleed as much as the black saddles?
On Apr 18, 2016 7:26 PM, "Steve Palincsar" <palin...@his.com> wrote:

>
>
> On 04/18/2016 07:07 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
>> Just wondering if anyone had any experience with saddle dye coming off
>> onto light colored pants/shorts? More specifically does anyone have a
>> remedy other than avoiding light colored pants/shorts? I love the look of
>> the Brooks select saddles but I'm weary of the extra thick hide.
>>
>>
>
> Do you mean "wary"?  Or are you really just tired of them?
>
> Black dyed leather saddles can bleed color into light colored pants and
> shorts for decades.  That's why cycling shorts are black.  The Natural
> saddles don't bleed color, because there's no dye in them to bleed.  If you
> have a black saddle that's bleeding color into your shorts, the best bet is
> to put a saddle cover on it.
>
>
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[RBW] Leather saddle bleed

[A CT Cyclist]

Just wondering if anyone had any experience with saddle dye coming off onto 
light colored pants/shorts? More specifically does anyone have a remedy 
other than avoiding light colored pants/shorts? I love the look of the 
Brooks select saddles but I'm weary of the extra thick hide.

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam in the Washington Post

[A CT Cyclist]

MG at chasing mailboxes http://chasingmailboxes.com 


On Tuesday, April 5, 2016 at 5:05:03 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:
>
>
> https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/capital-weather-gang/wp/2016/04/05/pm-update-another-frozen-night-before-a-modest-warm-up-on-wednesday-deadly-pakistan-flooding/
>
> Whose?
>

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[RBW] Bridgestone MB-2

[A CT Cyclist]

I thought I'd post a couple pics of my re-purposed 92 Bridgestone MB-2 in 
case there were any fans of old mountain bikes on this forum. The build is 
prettly Rivish, bags, racks, baskets, fat tires, comfy riding position, 
etc. More info on my blog if you want to geek out 
http://actcyclist.blogspot.com/2016/04/bridgestone-mb-2.html





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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

That's really a shame. Makes me want to buy another one. Perhaps if they
did away with the double top tube in the larger sizes it would appeal to
more non Riv folks.
On Jan 16, 2016 11:00 AM, "islaysteve"  wrote:

> But is it really Grant's call?  I know that he killed the Bleriot but that
> was a diffent deal; Riv-badged bike.  Soma may have something to say about
> this one.  For course, they may not be selling well Soma also.  I agree, it
> would be a shame.  I'd probably have bought one if I hadn't found my
> Bleriot.
> Cheers, Steve
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

Tim what year is your girlfriend's San Marco? It looks like the tire
clearance has gotten wider than the   first editions  were. Mine is a 2012,
at that time the stated clearance was 35 mm without fenders, 33.3 mm with.
On Jan 7, 2016 9:09 AM, "Tim Gavin" <tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com> wrote:

> I agree that Paul Racers give you more fender clearance than Tektro R559
> calipers. I use Racers on my Riv Road (where clearance is very tight) and I
> can comfortably fit VO "hammered" 45 mm fenders over 650 x 38 Pari-Motos.
>
> The arms of the R559 calipers intrude more into the vertical fender
> space.  With those calipers, I could fit 38 mm tires and SKS P45 fenders,
> but not the VO "hammered" 45s (that are a little thicker).
>
>
> On my girlfriend's San Marcos, I could probably fit 650 x 42s under the
> P45 fenders, but the brake caliper would push the front fender lip into the
> tire space occasionally.  650 x 38s give just enough room so the fender
> never rubs.
>
> Pari-Moto tires are cheap, light, supple, and available in both 650 x 38
> and 42 sizes.  Their actual width is 37-38 mm on PL23 rims.  They've held
> up well for us and they ride great.
>
> Cheers,
> Tim
>
> On Thu, Jan 7, 2016 at 7:24 AM, Philip Kim <philipw...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I fit 42 with fenders fine with Paul Brakes. Other San Marcos on this
>> list has 42 Marathons with SKS fenders.
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 01/06/2016 06:31 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website
>>>> states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get
>>>> the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.
>>>>
>>>> --
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[RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website 
states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get 
the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 4:48:59 PM UTC-5, se...@austin.utexas.edu 
wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies and feedback all! I am thinking the San Marcos 
>> would probably be perfect. Up to this point, I am able to get the bars high 
>> enough on my LHT due to having an uncut steerer, but the quill stem 
>> certainly would provide easier adjustment not to mention be more appealing 
>> than a giant stack of spacers. Also, the lighter nature of the San Marcos 
>> tubing is certainly appealing as well. If I can replicate the ride quality 
>> of my old Ram, then it will probably be worth it. I'll have to double check 
>> the geometry, but I think with a dirt drop stem and some Alba/stache bars 
>> it may be upright enough. Can't seem to handle drops anymore (currently 
>> using Jones loop bars and love 'em). Looks like 42mm tires could be 
>> squeezed in there too with fenders.
>>
>
> Sean
> ATX 
>

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Re: [RBW] San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

I own a 51 cm Soma San Marco and I love it I have wide drop bars set up ~3 
inches above my saddle with a 50 cm stem and I love it. I haven't ever 
ridden a Straggler but there are a few things that keep me from pursuing 
it.  1- the geometry is quite different, seat tube angle for Straggler = 74 
San Marco = 71.5. The slacker angle allows me to ride a Brooks saddle 
without issue and I find it a little kinder to my knees.  Reach for 
Straggler = 383 San Marco = 356 even though the San Marco's top tub is  2.1 
cms longer. BB drop for Straggler = 54 San Marco = 65. which means the San 
Marco has a low bb ht.  Stack for Straggler = 523 San Marco = 576. 
Chainstay for Straggler = 405 San Marco = 455. Front center for Straggler = 
? San Marco = 591 and I have not experienced any toe over lap. The 
Straggler's geo is fairly typical for a smaller modern bike. San Marco's 
geo is fairly typical for Rivendell Bicycle these days. 

2. Threadless stem vs threaded, I prefer the threaded it allows me to get 
the bars higher without having to use an ugly stem extender and personally 
I like the aesthetics of the threaded stem better.
Another difference is the steel, Soma uses Tange and Surly uses 4130, draw 
your own conclusions. As far as using the Soma for touring, I have done it. 
Granted I never carry more than 20lbs. but I have hauled loads of grocery's 
without any issues. Small frames  are inherently stronger than larger 
frames due to the smaller diamond.

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 1:43:13 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
> +1 on this. The Straggler/Cross Check is not optimized with high bars in 
> mind, and that aspect is complicated by a threadless steerer design.
> Considering you would likely go with swept-back bars, the San Marcos 
> appears to be the better match of the two for your needs.
>
> KJ
>
>
> On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 11:55:36 AM UTC-5, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>
>>
>> Compare the geometry closely.  The San Marcos has more stack, but a 
>> longer top tube for roughly the same size.  You could fit an upright 
>> cockpit easily with a tall/short stem, like a dirt drop or Technomic 7-8 cm.
>> The Straggler has less stack, so a funny stem or a steerer extender may 
>> be required to get the bars really high.  But, the Straggler does have a 
>> shorter top tube.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: San Marcos or Straggler 650B?

[A CT Cyclist]

Of course fff on a Surly but I was talking about the Soma San Marco, which 
if I understand correctly Sean is now leaning towards.

On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 6:46:03 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> According to Surly's web site  
> http://surlybikes.com/bikes/straggler/frame_highlights
>
> *Tire Clearance*
> *Our Fatties Fit Fine (FFF) stays and our beautiful slope-crowned custom 
> fork provide room for tires up to 700c x 42mm! With fenders!*
>
>
> On 01/06/2016 06:31 PM, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I don't think you can squeeze 42 mm tires with fenders. Soma's website 
> states 38 mm without fenders 35 mm with. From what I can tell you can get 
> the Straggler as a complete bike or a frame only.
>
> On Wednesday, January 6, 2016 at 4:48:59 PM UTC-5, se...@austin.utexas.edu 
> wrote: 
>>
>> Thanks for the replies and feedback all! I am thinking the San Marcos 
>>> would probably be perfect. Up to this point, I am able to get the bars high 
>>> enough on my LHT due to having an uncut steerer, but the quill stem 
>>> certainly would provide easier adjustment not to mention be more appealing 
>>> than a giant stack of spacers. Also, the lighter nature of the San Marcos 
>>> tubing is certainly appealing as well. If I can replicate the ride quality 
>>> of my old Ram, then it will probably be worth it. I'll have to double check 
>>> the geometry, but I think with a dirt drop stem and some Alba/stache bars 
>>> it may be upright enough. Can't seem to handle drops anymore (currently 
>>> using Jones loop bars and love 'em). Looks like 42mm tires could be 
>>> squeezed in there too with fenders.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: VO Constructeur Front Rack on a Ram - HELP

[A CT Cyclist]

 I wholly agree that VO Constructeur racks are difficult to mount. I 
wouldn't want to attempted to bend stainless steel tangs without a bench 
vice. I also only have rear facing fender bosses on my San Marcos fork. I 
mounted my front constructeur rack twice, once with a Grand Comp 610 CP 
brake and VO Zeppelin fenders, then with a Paul's CP brake and VO Hammered 
fenders. I bent the tang so many times and also angled it at the weld that 
I began to be concerned about weakening the weld. I'm happy to report that 
it has held up well over the last several years. It currently has a basket 
zip-tied to it and carries anywhere from 10 - 16 lbs.



 



On Thursday, December 31, 2015 at 11:06:45 AM UTC-5, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I bought shiny new fenders and this rack as upgrades for my Ram.  I 
> confess I am a victim of "shiny things syndrome."  But I have just about 
> come to the conclusion that this rack cannot be mounted on this bike, at 
> least not with my Paul's Racer M brakes and maybe not any CP brake.  If you 
> have succeeded let me know how.
>
> I started by trying to mount the fender and rack simultaneously, since 
> they need to integrate with one another.  This proved impossible.  I also 
> found that a heavy pair of pliers and small vice grip were insufficient to 
> bend the rack tang to a needed position.  I went to plan B.  I installed 
> the front fender, which proved remarkably easy, and then went to the 
> hardware store and spent $22 on a large, flat vice grip designed for metal 
> work. Then I removed the fenders and began again on the rack, first trying 
> to mount it to the daruma I had added for the fenders.
>
> It proved very difficult to mount the tang and the dropouts 
> simultaneously.  I concluded that there was no way I could bend the tang to 
> clear the brakes and get the rack level at the same time.  I started over, 
> this time intending to come over the top of the brake and bolt it into the 
> hole in the fork crown. After a great deal of struggle, including drilling 
> an extra hole in the tang and adjusting the bend a dozen times, I finally 
> got it all put together, only to discover two new problems.  In order to 
> get the rack level I was so close to the front of the brake that it was 
> almost impossible to get the brake between the rack and the now horseshoe 
> shaped tang; and the tang pinched against the front of the headset.  Even 
> if more meticulous bending solved that problem without knocking the rack 
> out of level, there was precious little room to fit the 15 mm wrench and 
> the allen wrench necessary to adjust Paul's brakes.  Probably canti brakes 
> or thinner CPs, like the Mafac would fit easier.
>
> Looking again at the picture on the VO website I saw something I had 
> suspected from the beginning.  The rack is designed to mount to an upper, 
> forward facing dropout not the rear downward facing style which the Ram 
> has.  The rear position makes it much harder to get the rack level and 
> forward of the CP brake.
>
> Unless someone has some reasonable solution I am about ready to reinstall 
> the Mark's Mini rack.  That requires P clamps, which I don't like and 
> doesn't offer an attachment point for the front of the fender.  However I 
> ran Honjos like this for seven years without a problem, so wouldn't expect 
> one with this fender either.
>
> Would then consider selling this rack to someone who has a bike with 
> cantis and front dropout.
>
> Michael
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

I understood their description but  they should specify that right side 
implies mounting on the outside of the handlebar. Cus when you say thumb 
shifter it implies shifting w/the thumb. 

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 5:19:21 PM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
>
> *The most confusing thread and description of a shifter ever !*
>
>   
>> *Use: They click but don’t index. Out of the package and not on a bike, 
>> they click about 18 times. In the span of shifting over a 9-sp cassette, 
>> they click about 13 times. This sounds trick or confusing, but it isn’t at 
>> all. Like a with a pure friction shifter, you move the lever til the shift 
>> is made. With these levers, the first three clicks coincide with the small 
>> three cogs. After that, it takes two clicks to get the subsequent cogs. 
>> Now, I totally understand if this weirds you out, but don’t run away so 
>> fast—nobody on Planet Earth has shifted these levers even 1/20th as much as 
>> I have, and I’m telling you, it is a cinch. In the mid and upper range, one 
>> click isn’t enough, but two clicks are.*
>
>
>  If they are truly friction shifting(meaning they can be moved hi-lo and 
> lo-hi in one continuous motion) they are "pure friction"* regardless of 
> any clicks/noises *they may make !  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

Ahh, so if you want to mount them on the inside of your handle bar, like 
Riv shows on the video you put the left on the right and the right on left? 
This is kind of confusing since Riv refers to them as right one at a time 
and left one at a time thumb shifters.

On Thursday, December 17, 2015 at 1:42:57 AM UTC-5, Patrick Kelly wrote:
>
> I've got the one-at-a-time shifters on a marin "urban 29er" 
> (hamilton). I have them mounted "backwards" which really seems like 
> the right way to me, if you want to call them "thumb shifters". With 
> this "backwards" mounting, they actually are operable by your 
> thumb(s). 
>
> Basically, I love them. I'm shifting on a 3x8 drivetrain, FWIW. 
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 7:55 PM, A CT Cyclist <amee...@gmail.com 
> > wrote: 
> > Has anyone here used these shifters? I'm thinking of trying the right 
> > shifter for a 1 x 7 . 
> > 
> > On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 7:53:07 PM UTC-5, Dave Johnston 
> wrote: 
> >> 
> >> Maybe just read what it says on the Rivpage: 
> >> 
> >> " ... Trivia: These are actually made for shifting Sturmey archer 
> internal 
> >> gear hubs (SunRace bought Sturmey-Archer several years ago). We figured 
> out 
> >> that — easily and slickly and with no monkey business, but just a 
> slight 
> >> factory switcheroo, they work with derailer gears. At first we thought 
> this 
> >> required mounting the right one on the inside of the bar and lefty on 
> the 
> >> outside, but then Spencer here figured out that a SunRace right bar-end 
> >> shifter lever on a left SunRace pod allowed perfect symmetry, as though 
> it 
> >> were ordained from on high. SunRace was delighted, too. 
> >> 
> >> Use: They click but don’t index. Out of the package and not on a bike, 
> >> they click about 18 times. In the span of shifting over a 9-sp 
> cassette, 
> >> they click about 13 times." 
> >> 
> >> On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 3:05:27 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote: 
> >>> 
> >>> I was buying some parts locally, and saw that I could get Sunrace 
> >>> shifters for cheaper than on rivbike. One is good, friction and all. 
> >>> left-hand-side shifter mounted on the right pod for use on an 
> albatross. 
> >>> 
> >>> The other is an index. 
> >>> 
> >>> Went and bought another shifter, but turns out thats a 3speed index, 
> not 
> >>> friction. 
> >>> 
> >>> What the heck? I cannot find the same ones sold on RivBike (they say 
> M90 
> >>> and Friction on them). 
> >>> 
> >>> Any ideas other than "just buy from Riv"? 
> > 
> > -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

I don't like the sound of that. What do you mean you adjust your riding 
style?

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 12:51:19 PM UTC-5, Robert wrote:
>
> I've got them set up like this too. I think Riv calls it the "inside" 
> position. I've been riding them for about 6 months now on bosco bars with 
> an 8spd cassette and triple crank and like em.
>
> Only complaint is sometimes I wanna make a slight tweak to the rear 
> derailleur position as I'm riding, and in order to do so I have to make a 
> "full click" which sometimes turns out to be enough to unintentionally 
> shift to the next cog. This would probably make them a no-go for a lot of 
> folks, but I have learned when to expect this issue and adjusted my riding 
> to avoid it. So not a big deal for me. Plus they are fun to use, so I'm all 
> for them.
>
>
> On Thursday, December 17, 2015 at 1:42:57 AM UTC-5, Patrick Kelly wrote:
>>
>> I've got the one-at-a-time shifters on a marin "urban 29er" 
>> (hamilton). I have them mounted "backwards" which really seems like 
>> the right way to me, if you want to call them "thumb shifters". With 
>> this "backwards" mounting, they actually are operable by your 
>> thumb(s). 
>>
>> Basically, I love them. I'm shifting on a 3x8 drivetrain, FWIW. 
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 7:55 PM, A CT Cyclist <amee...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>> > Has anyone here used these shifters? I'm thinking of trying the right 
>> > shifter for a 1 x 7 . 
>> > 
>> > On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 7:53:07 PM UTC-5, Dave Johnston 
>> wrote: 
>> >> 
>> >> Maybe just read what it says on the Rivpage: 
>> >> 
>> >> " ... Trivia: These are actually made for shifting Sturmey archer 
>> internal 
>> >> gear hubs (SunRace bought Sturmey-Archer several years ago). We 
>> figured out 
>> >> that — easily and slickly and with no monkey business, but just a 
>> slight 
>> >> factory switcheroo, they work with derailer gears. At first we thought 
>> this 
>> >> required mounting the right one on the inside of the bar and lefty on 
>> the 
>> >> outside, but then Spencer here figured out that a SunRace right 
>> bar-end 
>> >> shifter lever on a left SunRace pod allowed perfect symmetry, as 
>> though it 
>> >> were ordained from on high. SunRace was delighted, too. 
>> >> 
>> >> Use: They click but don’t index. Out of the package and not on a bike, 
>> >> they click about 18 times. In the span of shifting over a 9-sp 
>> cassette, 
>> >> they click about 13 times." 
>> >> 
>> >> On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 3:05:27 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote: 
>> >>> 
>> >>> I was buying some parts locally, and saw that I could get Sunrace 
>> >>> shifters for cheaper than on rivbike. One is good, friction and all. 
>> >>> left-hand-side shifter mounted on the right pod for use on an 
>> albatross. 
>> >>> 
>> >>> The other is an index. 
>> >>> 
>> >>> Went and bought another shifter, but turns out thats a 3speed index, 
>> not 
>> >>> friction. 
>> >>> 
>> >>> What the heck? I cannot find the same ones sold on RivBike (they say 
>> M90 
>> >>> and Friction on them). 
>> >>> 
>> >>> Any ideas other than "just buy from Riv"? 
>> > 
>> > -- 
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>> Groups 
>> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 
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>> an 
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>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Cheviot build for my wife.

[A CT Cyclist]

I love that green color, they really should keep that in the lineup

On Saturday, December 19, 2015 at 11:51:07 PM UTC-5, Keith Muller wrote:
>
> Just finished up a new 50cm Cheviot build for my wife.  I have a couple 
> finishing details to work out, but it's about 98% there.  I thing it turned 
> out well.  Side profile has the lights mounted.  Still waiting for a basket 
> to arrive so I can mount it to the front rack.  
>
> Keith
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

Only trying to clarify because I have a 1x7 setup.

On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 2:21 PM, Belopsky <belopolsky.i...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes. If you want to mount on the inside:
> You buy the left and mount it on the right and you buy the right and mount
> it on the left.
>
> FWIW: if you want the same type on left and right, just buy from Rivbike.
> From all I could tell, they had a custom setup made. The 'stock' Sunrace
> '3speed' friction one only :
> http://smartbikeparts.com/search_details.php?itm=SBP19104=COijlqKj_8kCFQgGaQodfRAC5w
> < is a right-side-only setup. You could mount this on the inside of the
> left. You cannot however buy two of these or swap the mounts or whatever
>
> On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 2:04:05 PM UTC-5, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> Ahh, so if you want to mount them on the inside of your handle bar, like
>> Riv shows on the video you put the left on the right and the right on left?
>> This is kind of confusing since Riv refers to them as right one at a time
>> and left one at a time thumb shifters.
>>
>> On Thursday, December 17, 2015 at 1:42:57 AM UTC-5, Patrick Kelly wrote:
>>>
>>> I've got the one-at-a-time shifters on a marin "urban 29er"
>>> (hamilton). I have them mounted "backwards" which really seems like
>>> the right way to me, if you want to call them "thumb shifters". With
>>> this "backwards" mounting, they actually are operable by your
>>> thumb(s).
>>>
>>> Basically, I love them. I'm shifting on a 3x8 drivetrain, FWIW.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 7:55 PM, A CT Cyclist <amee...@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> > Has anyone here used these shifters? I'm thinking of trying the right
>>> > shifter for a 1 x 7 .
>>> >
>>> > On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 7:53:07 PM UTC-5, Dave Johnston
>>> wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Maybe just read what it says on the Rivpage:
>>> >>
>>> >> " ... Trivia: These are actually made for shifting Sturmey archer
>>> internal
>>> >> gear hubs (SunRace bought Sturmey-Archer several years ago). We
>>> figured out
>>> >> that — easily and slickly and with no monkey business, but just a
>>> slight
>>> >> factory switcheroo, they work with derailer gears. At first we
>>> thought this
>>> >> required mounting the right one on the inside of the bar and lefty on
>>> the
>>> >> outside, but then Spencer here figured out that a SunRace right
>>> bar-end
>>> >> shifter lever on a left SunRace pod allowed perfect symmetry, as
>>> though it
>>> >> were ordained from on high. SunRace was delighted, too.
>>> >>
>>> >> Use: They click but don’t index. Out of the package and not on a
>>> bike,
>>> >> they click about 18 times. In the span of shifting over a 9-sp
>>> cassette,
>>> >> they click about 13 times."
>>> >>
>>> >> On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 3:05:27 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>>> >>>
>>> >>> I was buying some parts locally, and saw that I could get Sunrace
>>> >>> shifters for cheaper than on rivbike. One is good, friction and all.
>>> >>> left-hand-side shifter mounted on the right pod for use on an
>>> albatross.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> The other is an index.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Went and bought another shifter, but turns out thats a 3speed index,
>>> not
>>> >>> friction.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> What the heck? I cannot find the same ones sold on RivBike (they say
>>> M90
>>> >>> and Friction on them).
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Any ideas other than "just buy from Riv"?
>>> >
>>> > --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

At 52 my bars are too high for that to happen. I'm using a Civia dupont hb
that I had to overcome the low head tube and long top tube of my
Bridgestone MB-2.
On Dec 28, 2015 10:43 PM, "Joe Bernard"  wrote:

> I gave up on bar-ends for Albas. At 53 I'm officially tired of jamming
> those things into my knees ;)
>
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[RBW] Re: New Winter Project: Another 650B conversion, thanks in part to you

[A CT Cyclist]

Bill, I noticed on in the Flicker album you stated that you were going to 
dimple the chainstays to get a bit more clearance. Can you explain how you 
go about doing this?

On Monday, November 23, 2015 at 7:44:36 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> So I sold a few bikes to pay for a mountain bike.  You guys snapped up two 
> of my three 650B bikes, and wanted the frames, but not the wheels.  
> So I found myself with a surplus of 650B tires, and tried to sell off 
> some, but you hardly bought any of them.  
> So, it was irresistible, unavoidable that I buy a cheap vintage road bike 
> to do a 650B conversion on.  Right?  Right!?
>
> I worked at a Schwinn Shop through the mid 1980s, so I have a long 
> standing softspot for mid-1980s Schwinn road bikes.  A standard ebay outing 
> includes searches for Paramount, Peloton, Super Sport, Prologue, Circuit, 
> Premis.  They were all made either in the US or Japan.  Many had Columbus 
> or Prestige tubing.  They had great fork crowns for 650B, generally.  The 
> only downer was that virtually all of them did not have fender eyelets.  A 
> recent find had me looking through an archived scan of the 1985 Schwinn 
> Catalog.  Flipping the virtual pages I was reminded of a model I had been 
> overlooking: the Schwinn Tempo.  The 1985 Tempo was the number 4 model road 
> bike (Paramount > Peloton > Super Sport > Tempo).  The Super Sport and 
> Tempo both have a Columbus "Tenax" label, but the not-very-well-kept-secret 
> was that Schwinn bought up a whole mess of cosmetic blem Columbus SL and SP 
> at a discount and agreed to label it Tenax.  Thanks to the sneaky light 
> tubing, the stock bikes were respectably light.  List weight of the Tempo 
> was 22 lbs.  An added plus is that the Tempo was the only "Competition" 
> road bike that year with eyelets for fenders.  
>
> So, having added the Tempo to my standard search, I found one almost 
> instantly on ebay.  It looks like a completely stock attic-find.  I got it 
> at a half-way decent price ($249) and a horrible shipping cost ($95), but 
> now I've got my Winter Project, again, thanks to you.  I'm going to do a 
> 650B conversion on this nice 1985 Schwinn Tempo.
>
> 
>
> Anybody want to trade me or sell me a Nitto stem with a 25.4 clamp 
> diameter and a 10cm or 11cm extension?
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[A CT Cyclist]

Has anyone here used these shifters? I'm thinking of trying the right 
shifter for a 1 x 7 . 

On Wednesday, December 16, 2015 at 7:53:07 PM UTC-5, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> Maybe just read what it says on the Rivpage:
>
> " ... Trivia: These are actually made for shifting Sturmey archer 
> internal gear hubs (SunRace bought Sturmey-Archer several years ago). We 
> figured out that — easily and slickly and with no monkey business, but just 
> a slight factory switcheroo, they work with derailer gears. At first we 
> thought this required mounting the right one on the inside of the bar and 
> lefty on the outside, but then Spencer here figured out that a SunRace 
> right bar-end shifter lever on a left SunRace pod allowed perfect symmetry, 
> as though it were ordained from on high. SunRace was delighted, too. 
>
> Use: They click but don’t index. Out of the package and not on a bike, 
> they click about 18 times. In the span of shifting over a 9-sp cassette, 
> they click about 13 times."
>
> On Tuesday, December 15, 2015 at 3:05:27 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> I was buying some parts locally, and saw that I could get Sunrace 
>> shifters for cheaper than on rivbike. One is good, friction and all. 
>> left-hand-side shifter mounted on the right pod for use on an albatross.
>>
>> The other is an index.
>>
>> Went and bought another shifter, but turns out thats a 3speed index, not 
>> friction.
>>
>> What the heck? I cannot find the same ones sold on RivBike (they say M90 
>> and Friction on them).
>>
>> Any ideas other than "just buy from Riv"?
>>
>

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[RBW] Sacks for Cats?

[A CT Cyclist]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UQOeZnWaq5E/VHYsFx3XIkI/Ai4/8aKaKrV6ulo/s1600/sacs%2Bfor%2Bcats%2Bstamped.JPG

This occurred shortly after I unpacked and left the basket and Saddle Sack 
on the floor. She usually is just a paper weight.

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[RBW] Re: Old Steel Bicycles

[A CT Cyclist]

Have you ever heard of a guy called Heinz Stucke? He may have the most 
miles ridden in a lifetime clenched. According to his website he has 
traveled 593 625 km or * 368 861 miles over 48 years of  cycle touring. *
*Check it out athttp://www.bikechina.com/heinzstucke1z.html 
http://www.bikechina.com/heinzstucke1z.html  
and  http://www.heinzstucke.com/ http://www.heinzstucke.com/  His first 
bike was German bike with a 3 speed Torpedo hub.*

On Wednesday, November 26, 2014 2:03:28 PM UTC-5, Eric Norris wrote:

 Just poking around the old intertubes, and ended up reading about Tommy 
 Godwin, who set the still-unbroken record for most miles ridden in a year 
 (75,065), way back in 1939!

 Tommy’s bike was a 35-pound steel Raleigh, equipped with a 
 then-state-of-the-art Sturmey Archer 4-speed hub. There are a number of 
 photos of Tommy and his bike on the Tommy Godwin tribute web site (
 www.tommygodwin.com), and I was struck how much his bike resembles my 
 1972 Motobecane,* also equipped with a Sturmey Archer hub (3-speed).  

 Here’s a side-by-side comparison: https://flic.kr/p/pVjx8c 

 Tommy’s accomplishment, which has stood for 75 years and may never be 
 beaten, shows how much can be done a “primitive” bicycle. I’m inspired to 
 take the Motobecane out for a ride.

 * Formerly Patrick Moore’s

 —Eric N
 campyo...@me.com javascript:
 www.campyonly.com
 www.wheelsnorth.org
 Blog: http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 Twitter: @campyonlyguy 



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[RBW] Re: Splinting a carbon frame

[A CT Cyclist]

It maybe possible for Calfee to repair it. As far as a lay person splinting 
a cf chainstay at the least I would say it's inadvisable and unsafe.

actcyclist

On Saturday, October 11, 2014 11:38:37 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:

 My friend with a carbon frame broke the chainstay yesterday, in what 
 seemingly is a greenstick fracture. He thinks he can splint it. Is 
 this idea as idiotic as I think it is? 

 -- 
 -- Anne Paulson 

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 


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[RBW] Rain Gear

[A CT Cyclist]

Hi, what does everyone wear when commuting in the rain? I'm looking for 
something that I can wear with normal clothing. Something light that I 
can layer under and not sweat profusely, ha ha. 

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[RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

[A CT Cyclist]

OK, if a new frame is out, I would try a dirt drop or periscopa stem with a 
handle bar that has some rise and a little bit of sweep. The slightly swept 
back bar would account for the slight bit more of forward extension, caused 
by the new stem. The stem and the rise of bar might bring her riding 
position up about 4 - 5 inches. The type of bar depends on how she likes to 
position her hands while riding. Besides the Riv/Nitto choices, Velo Orange 
and Soma have a good variety at reasonable prices.

A CT Cyclist

On Monday, September 22, 2014 6:31:02 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 She says it's comfortable this way.  I think it's time to ditch the 
 drops.  Any suggestions?  I showed her some pics of flat bars that looked 
 sorta like Albatross bars with thumbies except more plasticy and she says 
 she wants those rather than bar-ends.

 In other words I think she'd enjoy the bike better Rivved-out.

 Thoughts?  Please don't suggest 650b conversionyet ;)


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[RBW] Re: My wife adjusted her handlebars

[A CT Cyclist]

   I agree the bike looks too small bc of all the seat post showing, while 
her handle bars look to be an inch or so below the saddle height.  She 
should get a proper bike fitting or use Riv's PBH guide. I wouldn't spend 
money trying to make a bike that is too small more comfortable.
   I ride a 50 cm Technomic stem on a 51 cm Soma San Marcos w/ drop bars 
that are 3.5 above my saddle height. With the drop bars I'm able to ride 
forward or quite upright depending on where I put my hands. 

A CT Cyclist
 

On Monday, September 22, 2014 6:31:02 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 She says it's comfortable this way.  I think it's time to ditch the 
 drops.  Any suggestions?  I showed her some pics of flat bars that looked 
 sorta like Albatross bars with thumbies except more plasticy and she says 
 she wants those rather than bar-ends.

 In other words I think she'd enjoy the bike better Rivved-out.

 Thoughts?  Please don't suggest 650b conversionyet ;)


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[RBW] Stupid Question about leather straps

[A CT Cyclist]

So, I went ahead and ordered the med Sackville saddle sack, and I just 
received it today. It came with straps that buckle to close the bag riveted 
to the bag, plus a set of straps to buckle and snap shut. I can't figure 
out how to use the snap strap without removing the riveted strap from the 
bag. Do you cut them off?
If not what do you do with it? It's in the way, you can't use both at the 
same time?

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[RBW] Re: Cambium S H-Cut

[A CT Cyclist]

I tried a Brooks S and it's pretty short, but the biggest problem is the 
saddle's rails are even shorter than a regular Brooks. There's hardly any 
fore and aft movement.

On Sunday, September 7, 2014 7:21:14 PM UTC-4, justin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey folks-
 I was wondering if anyone here has ridden a Cambium S with the cutout? I 
 think I need to look into one for my Saluki as I'll be riding it into some 
 wet weather this year. I'm wondering how the S feels as I think 
 my...undercarriage would prefer a shorter saddle than my b17. 

 Thanks!

 -J



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[RBW] Re: More details about the medium Sackville saddle bag

[A CT Cyclist]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Clsg3J1fkAo/VAzUcQvbpYI/Aik/-eGD6_TWXCw/s1600/IMG_1003.JPG
Wow Patrick that bag looks huge on your bike. It looks like you have it 
stuffed to the gills. I don't have 11 inches but I have constructeur rack 
and fenders. I have exactly 8.5 inches from the bag loops to the rack.

Shawn, I really am from CT. southeast to be precise and I see the irony. 
What say you in regards to Carradice bags. I'm also thinking about the lg 
Dill Pickle bag.

On Saturday, September 6, 2014 4:46:52 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 Hi, I'm getting ready to purchase a largish saddle bag and I have a few 
 questions about the Med. Sackville Saddle Bag.  Is it a heavy bag when it 
 is empty, 1,2 or more lbs ? Second of all is the bag really waterproof? And 
 finally is it one of the best saddle bags you have ever used?



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[RBW] More details about the medium Sackville saddle bag

[A CT Cyclist]

Hi, I'm getting ready to purchase a largish saddle bag and I have a few 
questions about the Med. Sackville Saddle Bag.  Is it a heavy bag when it 
is empty, 1,2 or more lbs ? Second of all is the bag really waterproof? And 
finally is it one of the best saddle bags you have ever used?

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[RBW] Re: Soma San Marcos

[A CT Cyclist]

Thanks, there isn't any metallic in the paint but the color changes in 
different light. I'm running 10 speed Tiagra brifters w/ a 105 rear 
derailleur, IRD Alpina D front derailleur and a Velo Orange triple crank. I 
had 9 speed Tiagra brifters on my Cannondale and they never gave me any 
trouble. The newer Tiagra 10 speed brifters are very nice. 

I forgot to mention how well this bike tracks. The front end doesn't feel 
jittery like the Cannodale tended to. Someone mentioned that the Soma 
probably has a more slack HT angle but their is only a degree of 
difference. The chainstays are longer, and I recall reading that GP likes 
longer chainstays because the bike descends better. Whatever the reason, I 
am a more confident rider on this bike.

I have more photos of the bike posted on Flicker 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/59741252@N07/

On Friday, October 12, 2012 6:23:33 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:

 Congratulations and welcome from another STI user.  Nice bike and I know 
 that you're enjoying it.   The color looks a lot like my Bleriot, but 
 lighter.  Is it also a bit metallic?  I run 8-speed 105 on my bike, with 
 Sugino Alpina double crank.  How about you?  Cheers, Steve


 On Thursday, October 11, 2012 9:17:06 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 About 3 weeks ago my 51cm Soma San Marcos build was completed.  Since 
 then I have been riding the San Marcos exclusively for about 325 miles and 
 I am thoroughly enjoying the versatility, fit and comfort. I am really 
 quite smitten and love everything about this bike, the geometry, 32mm 
 tires,650b wheels, and all the components that I selected. Robins egg blue 
 and shiny silver, ready for to go anytime, anywhere.


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ih56PFVTzlk/UHdtxjmz1fI/AWI/A0Q1CbQLNwE/s1600/Soma+San+Marcos+015.JPG

 I got back into riding on regular basis about 3 years ago, purchasing a 
 carbon fiber Cannondale Synapse with drop bars. I hadn't ridden a bicycle 
 with drop bars since I was a teenager. Previous to the Cannondale I had 
 been riding hybrids, mountain bikes and a Rans Crankfoward.  I chose the 
 Synapse because it was the most comfortable of all the drop bar bikes that 
 I tried and I tried the usual bike shop brands, Trek, Speacialized, 
 Bianchi, etc. The shop where I bought the bike fitted me to the bike using 
 a the fit systems, I don't remember which one and all and all they did a 
 pretty good job. My only complaint, is the length at which they cut the 
 steerer tube without consulting me. Consequently I had to have a stem 
 extender installed. I have spent the past 3 years riding and learning what 
 kind of a cyclist I am. I have gone full circle from riding without foot 
 retention to riding clipless and back to platform pedals. 




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[RBW] Soma San Marcos

[A CT Cyclist]

About 3 weeks ago my 51cm Soma San Marcos build was completed.  Since then 
I have been riding the San Marcos exclusively for about 325 miles and I am 
thoroughly enjoying the versatility, fit and comfort. I am really quite 
smitten and love everything about this bike, the geometry, 32mm tires,650b 
wheels, and all the components that I selected. Robins egg blue and shiny 
silver, ready for to go anytime, anywhere.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ih56PFVTzlk/UHdtxjmz1fI/AWI/A0Q1CbQLNwE/s1600/Soma+San+Marcos+015.JPG

I got back into riding on regular basis about 3 years ago, purchasing a 
carbon fiber Cannondale Synapse with drop bars. I hadn't ridden a bicycle 
with drop bars since I was a teenager. Previous to the Cannondale I had 
been riding hybrids, mountain bikes and a Rans Crankfoward.  I chose the 
Synapse because it was the most comfortable of all the drop bar bikes that 
I tried and I tried the usual bike shop brands, Trek, Speacialized, 
Bianchi, etc. The shop where I bought the bike fitted me to the bike using 
a the fit systems, I don't remember which one and all and all they did a 
pretty good job. My only complaint, is the length at which they cut the 
steerer tube without consulting me. Consequently I had to have a stem 
extender installed. I have spent the past 3 years riding and learning what 
kind of a cyclist I am. I have gone full circle from riding without foot 
retention to riding clipless and back to platform pedals. 


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