[RBW] Connecting with locals in northern NJ

2023-04-22 Thread Earl Grey
I just moved to Glen Rock, NJ, and would love to connect with fellow local 
riders. You can contact me via email. Interested in road and mixed surface 
rides. 

Thanks,

Gernot

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[RBW] Where can I find catalogue #20 online?

2014-02-13 Thread Earl Grey
The recent Cheviot flyer (http://rivbike.tumblr.com/image/76550207830) 
mentions that catalogue #20 is also available online, but I can't find it. 
Is it not up yet? Please help. I don't want a paper version, but I DO want 
to read it! :)

Cheers,

Gernot

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[RBW] Still FS: Brooks B17 Special Honey unused minor shop wear

2013-10-17 Thread Earl Grey


Some light and superficial scuffing above the Brooks logo at the back and 
on the right side corner. Otherwise excellent unused, untreated condition. 

See photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

$95 OBO plus actual shipping.

Cheers,

Gernot

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[RBW] Can anyone compare feel of MUSA wool to Icebreaker?

2013-10-15 Thread Earl Grey
I love my Icebreaker woolens, but also have a Patagonia wool t-shirt that I 
dislike because it is too SOFT! It just feels insubstantial and flimsy. I 
assume the MUSA stuff is more like Icebreaker, but can anyone confirm? 

Thanks,

Gernot

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[RBW] WTB: Brooks B17S (women's) in brown or honey

2013-10-14 Thread Earl Grey
Minor wear not an issue.

Gernot

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[RBW] FSOT: Brooks B17 Special honey unused with minor shop wear

2013-10-08 Thread Earl Grey
 

Some light scuffing above the Brooks logo at the back and on the right side 
corner. Otherwise excellent unused, untreated condition. 

See photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

$95 OBO plus actual shipping.

Would be happy to trade for a Brooks B17 S (Women's) in honey or brown, 
and/or Suntour XC Pro/Comp 7 sp thumbshifters, and/or Shimano Deore XT 
rapid rise rear derailer, with money changing hands to account for 
difference in value.

Cheers,

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Pics of you on your Rivendell.

2013-03-31 Thread Earl Grey
I am usually the guy with the camera, so there aren't too many photos of 
me, but here are a couple taken by Paul on an S24O:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6276762823/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6277281162/in/photostream/


On Sunday, March 31, 2013 11:02:33 PM UTC+7, jinxed wrote:

 NICE shot!! That's the ACK-SHUN right there.

 On Saturday, March 30, 2013 7:04:41 PM UTC-6, oli c wrote:

 fun
 Here's the go fast bike. Yours devoted at the bar.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/olipop/7253696150/in/photostream/

 Oli in SF



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[RBW] Re: Pics of you on your Rivendell.

2013-03-31 Thread Earl Grey
And here is one of Paul on HIS Sam, taken by me (plus Dave on a custom 
Bilenky): 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8231055345/in/photostream/

And another of Paul on his Sam, and Kevin on my Sam:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8331985171/in/photostream

Gernot
Thailand

On Monday, April 1, 2013 2:43:41 AM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 I am usually the guy with the camera, so there aren't too many photos of 
 me, but here are a couple taken by Paul on an S24O:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6276762823/in/photostream/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6277281162/in/photostream/


 On Sunday, March 31, 2013 11:02:33 PM UTC+7, jinxed wrote:

 NICE shot!! That's the ACK-SHUN right there.

 On Saturday, March 30, 2013 7:04:41 PM UTC-6, oli c wrote:

 fun
 Here's the go fast bike. Yours devoted at the bar.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/olipop/7253696150/in/photostream/

 Oli in SF



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[RBW] Re: Pics of you on your Rivendell.

2013-03-31 Thread Earl Grey
Clearly we need another flickr group. Anyone want to set it up?

Gernot


On Monday, April 1, 2013 2:47:14 AM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 And here is one of Paul on HIS Sam, taken by me (plus Dave on a custom 
 Bilenky): 

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8231055345/in/photostream/

 And another of Paul on his Sam, and Kevin on my Sam:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8331985171/in/photostream

 Gernot
 Thailand

 On Monday, April 1, 2013 2:43:41 AM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 I am usually the guy with the camera, so there aren't too many photos of 
 me, but here are a couple taken by Paul on an S24O:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6276762823/in/photostream/

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/paulatwork/6277281162/in/photostream/


 On Sunday, March 31, 2013 11:02:33 PM UTC+7, jinxed wrote:

 NICE shot!! That's the ACK-SHUN right there.

 On Saturday, March 30, 2013 7:04:41 PM UTC-6, oli c wrote:

 fun
 Here's the go fast bike. Yours devoted at the bar.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/olipop/7253696150/in/photostream/

 Oli in SF



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[RBW] Re: Hillborne finds its true self

2013-03-31 Thread Earl Grey
You could also put your bar-ends on some Paul thumbies and keep the 
Noodles. Like so:

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh8.htm (see second photo for Noodles)

Gernot


On Monday, April 1, 2013 8:04:01 AM UTC+7, Michael wrote:

 I just got a Sam with noodles and am thinking of putting moustaches on it. 
 Tired of reaching down to drops for bar end shifter levers. 
  

 If that doesn't work out - Albatross bars are next on the list to try.
  
 Glad your Sam has worked out great for you. Now get down to some nice 
 riding!! 


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[RBW] Re: How I made a quick release basket that can be installed and removed in seconds, or even one handed.

2013-03-31 Thread Earl Grey
Sweet! You can even lock it if you want to. :) I don't quite understand the 
angled basket to keep the cam tensioned. Wouldn't serious weight in the 
basket push the basket all the way down to flat, which would then reduce 
tension on the clasp just as you need it most? What am I missing?

Gernot


On Sunday, March 31, 2013 10:49:50 AM UTC+7, clayton wrote:

 Ok, now it is all finished, and elegantized. I polished the tongue and 
 filed the top buckle mount down to an asthetic shape and painted it black. 
 I also filed grooves on the sandwich to encapsulate the rack wire. Thanks 
 for all the compliments! Here's the finished basket: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/fireman483/8603662517/in/photostream/   
3 photos, click to newer.It was simple to do, as long as you 
 understand what is needed to make the cam over hasp function. Good luck 
 to all you tinkerers out there! 

 On Friday, March 29, 2013 12:52:06 PM UTC-7, clayton wrote:

 Hi folks,

 A while back I asked the groups opinion of the public bikes basket and 
 it's quick release. The opinions I got back were negative and got me 
 thinking on how to adapt a basket that could be installed and removed 
 easily but be very secure. I live without a car and use my Atlantis for 
 groceries etc. I didn't want to haul around an empty basket all the time, 
 or deal with zip ties constantly taking the basket off and zip tying it 
 down the next time I needed it to go to the store. So my requirements were: 
 Instant on/off, secure, elegant, lockable to the bike and not too heavy. 
 All was achieved but the elegance. Not ugly, but I need to paint the silver 
 bits...lol.

 I run panniers and a rear rack regularly. The basket is used as an 
 additional overload for *planned* shopping trips. 

 Check out the photos and descriptions. I tried to be clear as I could so 
 you could make your own if you so desired. Progress through the photos from 
 old to new. It should make sense after you get through the series of ten 
 photos and the descriptions. 



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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-21 Thread Earl Grey
Perhaps have a mechanic friend look at how they are set up. I have them on two 
bikes, 4 years on one, 2 years on the other, with zero adjustments since the 
initial set up. I love these brakes. 

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Saluki Brake / Rack Mating Question

2013-03-21 Thread Earl Grey
In case it matters to your decision making process, the mini can probably carry 
a lot more weight. 

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Which kinda washer for Sam brake bridge fender mount/plastic SKS fender.

2013-03-20 Thread Earl Grey
Actually for direct mounting a metal fender onto a bridge with a bolt that goes 
through the fender you use a leather washer to increase fender life and reduce 
noise, between fender and bridge. Metal washer inside fender. 

Gernot

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[RBW] Grand Bois Cypres vs Nifty Swifty

2013-03-20 Thread Earl Grey
Get Hetres. They will spoil you for all other tires. They will actually improve 
ride quality, won't increase rolling resistance noticeably (or may even lower 
it on rough roads), will last much longer (3-4000miles?) and will be much more 
flat resistant simply because they are wider and are thus run at lower 
pressure. 

Gernot (who wishes his 56cm Sam had 650b wheels so he could run Hetres, but who 
has them on another bike)

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Re: [RBW] Optimal clearance for metal fenders...

2013-03-19 Thread Earl Grey
The most important part of fender set up for avoiding jamming is to make 
the clearance tightest at the rear end of the fender, and gradually let it 
get more generous towards the front, so that if something gets sucked up in 
there, it has a good chance of getting spit out again, too. In addition, I 
think more clearance is better for avoiding jamming things, since a larger 
item is significantly less likely to get picked up by the tire and lifted 
all the way under the fender.

And in case you think this never happens: My friend Paul's Sam with SKS 
fenders and Marathon Extremes (relatively knobby) got a stick stuck in his 
fender on his first ride on a dirt road and pretzeled his fender. bent it 
back into shape and it is still useable, but it can happen.

Gernot
Thailand


On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 5:01:44 AM UTC+7, René wrote:

 Thanks for the feedback. 
  
 I have no problem fitting 60mm Berthoud fenders on my Hunqapillar to use 
 with 50mm Marathon Dureme or equivalent tires. In fact, I have so much 
 clearance, that my question really intended to ask how much is needed to 
 really minimize the risk of a rock, piece of gravel or stick to get stuck 
 when riding off-road, and if having too much clearance between the tire and 
 the metal fender just meant that larger and potentially larger rocks could 
 get stuck.
  
 I've already fitted both fenders to what I decided was optimal for both 
 looks and clearance, and will post photos when the build is complete, 
 unless someone wants to see something faster than that. I'm taking my sweet 
 time to both enjoy it to the max as well as to ensure I make no mistakes.
  
 I'm also debating whether to go with my original plan to have the 
 24/40/Guard Sugino crankset which is forcing me to go with a wider BB, 
 going down to 24/38/Guard to increase the clearance between the 38 and the 
 chainstay or just go back the the 24/36/46 triple I had, maybe even going 
 24/36/Guard as I never seem to use the 46...suggestions welcome!
  
 René


 On Mon, Mar 18, 2013 at 11:37 AM, Shoji Takahashi 
 shoji.t...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Lovelybike has info on a Surly Cross Check with Fat Franks and VO 
 Zeppelins. (Lots of pics.)

 http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2011/06/surly-cross-check-review-colourful.html

 She mentions: On the downside, the clearances between the tires and 
 fenders are so tight, that the set-up is not really practical for serious 
 off-road cycling: stuff can get caught in there and cause problems. But for 
 fire trails and gravel paths it is fine...

 I don't think I would do this with knobbies.

 Good luck-- looking forward to the pics of the build.
 Shoji



 On Monday, March 18, 2013 2:09:53 PM UTC-4, AaronY wrote:

 Bob,

 What size were the hammered fenders?  The largest size I can find on the 
 VO site is a 47 which could be the reason that a 47 tire would have 
 difficulty fitting with sufficient clearance.  If you really want metal 
 fenders they have the Zeppelin style in 52, but that might even be a tight 
 fit for Rene's 50 mm Duremes. Here's a link to their fender page. I

 http://store.velo-orange.com/**index.php/accessories/fenders.**html?p=1http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/fenders.html?p=1

 In the past my metal fenders have all been from VO and I've been happy 
 with them.  

 Aaron Young
 Vancouver, WA

 On Sunday, March 17, 2013, Robert Barr wrote:

 Rene,

 I struggled with the fenders on my Hunqapillar. My thoughtful wife 
 bought me some hammered VOs as a gift because I had mentioned that I 
 thought they would look great on the Hunq. And they would have -  but with 
 47-622 Marathons there wasn't a mm to spare. My normal commute takes me 
 down a gravel trail with stones and sticks. I fret the sticks more than 
 the 
 stones. After several attempts to fit the VOs (two sizes and lots of 
 thinking..). I had to go back to my tried and true SKS. They  worked best 
 for me and where I ride. Good luck...

 Bob
  

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Re: [RBW] Tech specs on Rivendell seat binder allen bolt and nut

2013-03-16 Thread Earl Grey
I broke my seatpost binder bolt a couple of weeks ago and measured (the 
broken bolt, held together) with calipers. I got 25mm of threads (M6 bolt). 
This is for a 2009 Sam. I'd just go buy a 22 and a 25 to be safe. Can't 
hurt to have a backup. I didn't even crank down very tight, but I had been 
adjusting the seat quite a bit for various visitors.

Gernot


On Saturday, March 16, 2013 5:59:43 AM UTC+7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Shoji and Stephen: thank you both. I will try True Value (well stocked) 
 and check the wheel.

 On Fri, Mar 15, 2013 at 2:53 PM, Stephen S elph...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Have you tried re-centering the rear wheel? With a 132.5 spacing it can 
 be hard to get the wheel exactly centered, at least tat is how it is on my 
 ram.

 Stephen

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[RBW] Re: Does shellaced tape feel crusty?

2013-03-11 Thread Earl Grey
A tropical data point: cloth tape with two or three coats of shellac only took 
a year to develop mold spots in northern Thailand. Just an aesthetic concern, 
but worth a note. I then swapped bars a couple of times (noodles to moustaches 
to VO porteurs) and haven't bothered retaping at all. Am quite happy with the 
feel of bare aluminum, with or without gloves. But then again it doesn't ever 
get cold here.  

Gernot
Thailand 

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Re: [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

2013-03-01 Thread Earl Grey
I have 3 of the Hebie 605s. I have a dual Pletscher, and it's not being 
used. The Hebies are far superior in terms of stability (and probably twice 
as heavy). No problem clearing 52mm fenders. All 3 bikes have the option of 
mounting 2 child seats, so stability is paramount. Note that the Hebies 
come in 3 lengths, are not adjustable, and the guidelines for choosing the 
right size are super conservative. I ended up with one that is way too long 
by using the info on the Hebie website. Better to measure in person if you 
can...

Gernot
Thailand

On Friday, March 1, 2013 4:24:29 AM UTC+7, Leslie wrote:

 On my Bomba, I had NeoMotos on it when I first tried to mount the 
 kickstand;  same problem, took the kickstand back off.

 Thing was, I wasn't planning on permanently running Neos, so once I 
 switched to the Contis, I didn't have a problem (but mine are the 42s, not 
 the 54s).




 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 3:16:20 PM UTC-5, danmc wrote:

 Going to get out the file this weekend and see if I can adjust the fit 
 of the Pletscher in the offending area. That is, in fact, the RBW 
 suggestion. 

 I'll check out the VO as well. As the Bombadil has a kickstand plate I am 
 pretty locked as far how the stand sits in relation to the bike.

 Dan


 On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 11:47 AM, Shoji Takahashi 
 shoji.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have the VO Copenhagen Dual Leg Kickstand, too. I think the length 
 adjustment is nice. I'm not as enthusiastic with the build compared to the 
 Pletscher. In the up position, the upper leg wobbles a bit. Not anything 
 bad or dangerous, but I don't see the same thing on my Pletscher.

 The plastic feet are wide. Good for stability, but it could cause a 
 problem in the up position. I tried it on a ss bike: too much one way, and 
 the feet were into the spokes; too much the other way and they were into 
 the pedal/foot.  

 For wheel flop, I take my ankle band and wrap it around the tire and 
 downtube. I used to have an extra bungie cord on my basket, but that 
 disappeared.

  

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:55:22 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

  I have this one on my Atlantis with the 50mm Marathon Supremes, and 
 it clears those pretty fat tires just fine. 
 http://store.velo-orange.com/**index.php/accessories/**
 chainguards-stay-protectors-**kickstands/vo-retractable-**
 dual-leg-kickstand.htmlhttp://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/chainguards-stay-protectors-kickstands/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand.html
   I like the ability to adjust the length of the kickstand legs when you 
 change tires, too.  Works very well.  Whether the rear or front is lifted 
 with the stand down depends on where the load is, though; I try to adjust 
 the length of the legs so that both tires are as close to the ground as 
 possible.

  

 *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com [mailto:rbw-owne...@**
 googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Dan McNamara

 *Sent:* Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:28 PM
 *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.**com

 *Subject:* [RBW] 2-legged kickstand options/opinions

  

 I just swapped the tires on my 52 Bombadil 2TT from Fatty Rumpkins to 
 the 54 (actually measure 48) Conti Tour Guards and, of course, the 
 Pletscher 2-legged kickstand won't clear the rear tire. By not clear I 
 mean 
 the stand rubs against the tire when it is in the up position. 
  
 Any thoughts on other 2-legged stands that might clear a wide-ish tire? 
 I would prefer that the stand raised the rear of the bike rather than the 
 front to avoid the front wheel flopping around when I am loading.
  
 So far there are two options from VO, a couple from Hebie and at least 
 one from Crow. Any user feedback on these and ideas on others?
  
 Thanks in advance
  
 Dan
  
 -Marin
  
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[RBW] Re: Budget Riv? Still on the horizon?

2013-02-28 Thread Earl Grey
Here is how to get a budget Riv now (other than waiting for a used deal, 
which could also take a while):

Get yourself a zero % interest credit card. Get a Sam or Betty now before 
the price goes up (get the unpainted head tube if still available in your 
size). Set up automatic payments so that you pay off the frame before the 
interest kicks in. Find a bargain older bike on Craig's List that has a 
suitable selection of parts. Move the parts over (650B wheels will be a 
problem, though). Scrounge for the rest (long reach brakes and wheels) here 
on the RBW list and the iBob list. 

The $400 you could save in a budget frame is a pittance even on a budget if 
spread out over a year. Commit to cooking for your family instead of going 
out to eat, do without cable, stop drinking beer and wine for a year, or 
juice (it's not that healthy, anyway), whatever. Or ride your new bike 
everywhere if you are now driving a car. Sell the car, buy a trailer for 
the kids, or a front mounted and rear mounted child seat. There are ways to 
save $40 a month if you are working and living in the US. I waited for 
years before buying a Riv because they seemed so extravagant. Buying the 
original Sam at $1000 in 2009 felt like a super-splurge bordering on the 
irresponsible, but I bit the bullet because it was half of the other Rivs. 
I wish I hadn't waited so long.

Hope I don't sound preachy, and perhaps your finances are more dire than 
mine are/were (maxed out credit cards?), but most employed folk in the US 
can afford a Sam, especially if it can replace car trips some of the time. 
It's mostly a matter of priorities, and perhaps overcoming fear. 

Cheers,

Gernot

PS: Moving to a cheaper country doesn't hurt. :)

GH in Thailand without a car with a 2.5 year old and an 8 month old, wife's 
student loans finally paid off a year ago. 


On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 7:36:21 AM UTC+7, murphyjrfk wrote:

 I love all the answers. And the what not.  But I suppose I forgot to 
 mention I don't care if the bike they come out with didn't have lugs was a 
 mixte with gray primer as pain t and not a single decal.  I'm not tall so 
 generally ride a 52 give or take and the thing that drives me crazy is you 
 can't buy a smaller bike with a shallow seat tube.  Even the lht-which I 
 have and like well enough-has a 74 degree seat tube.  And man I love 
 shallow seat tubes. My wife and I have mountains o' student loans and small 
 children so even when there is enough money I can't justify it.  But man do 
 I want the GP sweetness regardless o' what it looks like! 

  this group is the best.


 On Wednesday, February 20, 2013 11:58:02 AM UTC-5, murphyjrfk wrote:

 Does any one know if the budget riv is still being considered planned 
 anything? I hope so. And sooner rather than later.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-28 Thread Earl Grey
I have the Hebie. I am not using the plastic cover for the spring, and the 
spring was dragging on the fender, scratching it (maybe that's why there is 
a cover?) :). But rotating the L bracket at the fork crown so the spring 
attaches above the brake bolt solved the problem. You can see the scratches 
and the position of the bracket in this 
photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/8513927014/in/photostream

Gernot

On Thursday, February 28, 2013 9:26:50 PM UTC+7, Ron Mc wrote:

 I bought a steering damper on a VO order, and it does not fit in the space 
 available on my old bike with fenders.  
 If anyone wants it, new - package opened - $10 will get it there by 
 Priority Mail.  

 http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/vo-wheel-stabilizer.html

 (I ordered a Hebie from SJS, and am hoping it will be smaller)

 On Thursday, February 28, 2013 1:58:14 AM UTC-6, Earl Grey wrote:

 Agreed that 4 struts on a Mark's are key, which is why I am surprised 
 that apparently no-one has thought of mounting the second set of struts to 
 the inside of the hourglass brazeon on the fork (see related thread: 4 
 struts on a Mark's). Chris Chen thought of mounting the rear set of struts 
 to the inside of the rack (
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream), but 
 that doesn't solve the issue of stacking two struts onto one bolt at the 
 fork, though it does provide some side-to-side triangulation. 

 I have ordered bent and straight stays from Riv for my wife's Mark's and 
 will report back on various mounting options of the second set of struts in 
 a month or so when they arrive in Thailand. 

 Regarding the problem of front wheel movement while parked with a front 
 load, I have just installed a steering damper on my Sam with a big Wald 
 basket on a Nitto Mini Front rack (as well as a stem-mounted child seat). 
 As you can see, with about 13lbs the movement is limited to about 45 
 degrees (this can be fine-tuned with an adjustment screw): 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/ 

 Steering is probably slowed a bit near the limit, but I think that 
 handling is actually improved with a heavy front load, while I don't notice 
 any difference during unloaded riding, though I haven't really tested that 
 yet. I like the steering damper so much that I think that Riv should start 
 providing a brazeon for it. Seems like the logical step after mid-fork rack 
 mounts and kickstand plates. I thought I was kidding on this last comment, 
 but apparently at least some Dutch bikes have such a brazeon: 
 http://overthebarsinmilwaukee.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/steering-damper.jpg

 Gernot
 Thailand

 On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:12:24 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

 Edwin

 Sounds like a good list.  The key to using the Mark's Rack with a true 
 load is the second set of struts, as you can see in the staff bikes photos 
 (Keven's Appaloosa, Grant's Homer).  It's much more loadable with the 
 second pair of struts.  

 On Monday, February 25, 2013 5:36:47 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:

 I am weighing (no pun intended!) a few of the helpful suggestions from 
 the group. I think I am considering:
 CETMA strong and tough, ugly and expensive. 
 Blackburn cheap and tough, ugly and not made for this bike. 
 Marks elegant and made for the bike, expensive and wondering about 
 weight limit, but I see on the staff bikes they appear to hold more than 
 4.4 pounds. Someone from the list has told me they might have one of 
 these. 
 Gamoj porter like on Sean's bike on the staff bikes page. 

 As to my original post: I almost always carry 5-10 pounds in my work 
 bag to and from work, and on rare occasion a 12 pack of beer and very 
 rarely a case or other such groceries, but would love to have the option. 
  And have it be better than the current situation with soma rack and p 
 clamps. 

 Thanks for all of the suggestions. 

 Edwin



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[RBW] Re: Front fender mount on Blue Sams - how to?

2013-02-28 Thread Earl Grey
If you don't want to get a Sheldon Fender nut, you can mount the L-bracket 
in front of the fork crown, as shown in the Riv youtube video, but The rear 
part of the fendere will sit higher, making a flap more necessary (of 
course some folks will insist that a flap is always necessary). :)

Gernot


On Friday, March 1, 2013 1:34:11 AM UTC+7, Michael wrote:

 Does a fender mount on the brake bolt, or does the fork have one of those 
 thingamajjiggies for direct bolting fenders to the fork crown?
 Sorry for the lack of technical jargon. I forget what that mounting 
 hole is called under the fork.
  
 Thanks for the info.


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[RBW] Re: 4 struts on a Mark's rack on a Betty

2013-02-27 Thread Earl Grey
Chris, thanks for the photo. Actually I meant the opposite: Attaching both 
struts to the outside of the rack, but one to the outside of the fork, and 
the other to the inside of the fork. But your solution seems equally 
interesting. The photo strangely looks like all the struts are straight, 
but you say you used two bent ones? Do you mean the dogleg bend ones?

Cheers,

Gernot

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:05:39 AM UTC+7, Christopher Chen wrote:

 You mean like this?

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream

 I think it's actually quite neat, and it makes for more triangles. I like 
 more triangles, and all I had were the offset struts. You'll see they're 
 back-to-back against each other, so one is biased towards the inside, the 
 other towards the outside. This also means (to my amateur mind) that 
 there's less loading (laterally, that is) on the strut.

 On Monday, February 25, 2013 7:33:27 AM UTC-8, Earl Grey wrote:

 Since my wife carries a lot more than 4.4lbs in the Wald zip-tied to her 
 Mark's, I'd like to add two extra struts from the back eyelets on the rack 
 to the mid-fork braze-ons. I don't have the extra two struts that the 
 Mark's came with, so I was going to order two 16.5cm bent Nitto struts from 
 Riv (I know I need to order the nuts, too). But looking at a couple of 
 photos of Riv staff bikes (Miesha and Brian), I notice that they used 4 
 straight struts and attached them both to the outside of the hourglass 
 mounts on the fork. I was imagining attaching the bent struts to the inside 
 part of the hourglass mounts, and would think that might be marginally more 
 rigid/sturdy. 

 Any reason why I shouldn't? Is there not enough room for brake clearance 
 (Tektro 559s)? Does it look ugly? Any other thoughts? What about using the 
 two short straight struts on the rack's rear eyelets, and getting two long 
 straight struts to connect to the dropout eyelets? Has anyone done that? Do 
 you like it? Is it sturdier? 

 I know I should just call Riv, but it's too early there, and too late 
 here (Thailand) to stay up another 2 hours. 

 Thanks!

 Gernot



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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Rack ideas

2013-02-27 Thread Earl Grey
Agreed that 4 struts on a Mark's are key, which is why I am surprised that 
apparently no-one has thought of mounting the second set of struts to the 
inside of the hourglass brazeon on the fork (see related thread: 4 struts 
on a Mark's). Chris Chen thought of mounting the rear set of struts to the 
inside of the rack 
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/8506365178/in/photostream), but 
that doesn't solve the issue of stacking two struts onto one bolt at the 
fork, though it does provide some side-to-side triangulation. 

I have ordered bent and straight stays from Riv for my wife's Mark's and 
will report back on various mounting options of the second set of struts in 
a month or so when they arrive in Thailand. 

Regarding the problem of front wheel movement while parked with a front 
load, I have just installed a steering damper on my Sam with a big Wald 
basket on a Nitto Mini Front rack (as well as a stem-mounted child seat). 
As you can see, with about 13lbs the movement is limited to about 45 
degrees (this can be fine-tuned with an adjustment screw): 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/ 

Steering is probably slowed a bit near the limit, but I think that handling 
is actually improved with a heavy front load, while I don't notice any 
difference during unloaded riding, though I haven't really tested that yet. 
I like the steering damper so much that I think that Riv should start 
providing a brazeon for it. Seems like the logical step after mid-fork rack 
mounts and kickstand plates. I thought I was kidding on this last comment, 
but apparently at least some Dutch bikes have such a 
brazeon: 
http://overthebarsinmilwaukee.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/steering-damper.jpg

Gernot
Thailand

On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 2:12:24 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

 Edwin

 Sounds like a good list.  The key to using the Mark's Rack with a true 
 load is the second set of struts, as you can see in the staff bikes photos 
 (Keven's Appaloosa, Grant's Homer).  It's much more loadable with the 
 second pair of struts.  

 On Monday, February 25, 2013 5:36:47 PM UTC-8, Edwin W wrote:

 I am weighing (no pun intended!) a few of the helpful suggestions from 
 the group. I think I am considering:
 CETMA strong and tough, ugly and expensive. 
 Blackburn cheap and tough, ugly and not made for this bike. 
 Marks elegant and made for the bike, expensive and wondering about weight 
 limit, but I see on the staff bikes they appear to hold more than 4.4 
 pounds. Someone from the list has told me they might have one of these. 
 Gamoj porter like on Sean's bike on the staff bikes page. 

 As to my original post: I almost always carry 5-10 pounds in my work bag 
 to and from work, and on rare occasion a 12 pack of beer and very rarely a 
 case or other such groceries, but would love to have the option.  And have 
 it be better than the current situation with soma rack and p clamps. 

 Thanks for all of the suggestions. 

 Edwin



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[RBW] 4 struts on a Mark's rack on a Betty

2013-02-25 Thread Earl Grey
Since my wife carries a lot more than 4.4lbs in the Wald zip-tied to her 
Mark's, I'd like to add two extra struts from the back eyelets on the rack 
to the mid-fork braze-ons. I don't have the extra two struts that the 
Mark's came with, so I was going to order two 16.5cm bent Nitto struts from 
Riv (I know I need to order the nuts, too). But looking at a couple of 
photos of Riv staff bikes (Miesha and Brian), I notice that they used 4 
straight struts and attached them both to the outside of the hourglass 
mounts on the fork. I was imagining attaching the bent struts to the inside 
part of the hourglass mounts, and would think that might be marginally more 
rigid/sturdy. 

Any reason why I shouldn't? Is there not enough room for brake clearance 
(Tektro 559s)? Does it look ugly? Any other thoughts? What about using the 
two short straight struts on the rack's rear eyelets, and getting two long 
straight struts to connect to the dropout eyelets? Has anyone done that? Do 
you like it? Is it sturdier? 

I know I should just call Riv, but it's too early there, and too late here 
(Thailand) to stay up another 2 hours. 

Thanks!

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: 4 struts on a Mark's rack on a Betty

2013-02-25 Thread Earl Grey
Shoji,

thanks for the link to the previous discussion. I did search the group 
before posting (honest!) but poor keyword choice, I guess. Interesting that 
the inside mount option didn't come up, though. 

The problem with trying it both ways is that that requires straight struts 
for the outside mount, and bent ones for the inside. 

Cheers,

Gernot


On Monday, February 25, 2013 10:51:37 PM UTC+7, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Gernot,
 There was an earlier discussion on alternative installs for Mark's Rack 
 (including your question on struts to dropout eyelets): 
 https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/5waTg7bA4co/discussion

 I'd just try it out either way. Attaching both struts to the outside 
 eyelet (like Miesha's) is a simpler installation than one strut inside, the 
 other outside. I don't think it will make it more rigid/sturdy, but maybe 
 someone's tried it and can chime in.

 If the intended use if for  4.4lbs, you may want to consider a different 
 rack (like Nitto Front Rack, porteur rack, Paul's Rack, etc.).


 On Monday, February 25, 2013 10:33:27 AM UTC-5, Earl Grey wrote:

 Since my wife carries a lot more than 4.4lbs in the Wald zip-tied to her 
 Mark's, I'd like to add two extra struts from the back eyelets on the rack 
 to the mid-fork braze-ons. I don't have the extra two struts that the 
 Mark's came with, so I was going to order two 16.5cm bent Nitto struts from 
 Riv (I know I need to order the nuts, too). But looking at a couple of 
 photos of Riv staff bikes (Miesha and Brian), I notice that they used 4 
 straight struts and attached them both to the outside of the hourglass 
 mounts on the fork. I was imagining attaching the bent struts to the inside 
 part of the hourglass mounts, and would think that might be marginally more 
 rigid/sturdy. 

 Any reason why I shouldn't? Is there not enough room for brake clearance 
 (Tektro 559s)? Does it look ugly? Any other thoughts? What about using the 
 two short straight struts on the rack's rear eyelets, and getting two long 
 straight struts to connect to the dropout eyelets? Has anyone done that? Do 
 you like it? Is it sturdier? 

 I know I should just call Riv, but it's too early there, and too late 
 here (Thailand) to stay up another 2 hours. 

 Thanks!

 Gernot



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[RBW] Re: 4 struts on a Mark's rack on a Betty

2013-02-25 Thread Earl Grey
Well, 

I am still up, and Mark got in early to WHQ, so Rivendell is putting a 
couple of previously cut straight struts into my order (thanks!) along with 
the bent ones I ordered before I started rethinking all this. I won't get 
them for a month or so (Thailand), but will report back on straight struts 
vs bent mounted to the inside of the fork braze-ons for all of you waiting 
with bated breath. :) FWIW, Mark's answer was that they simply hadn't tried 
using the bent ones on the inside, but that he thought it should work. 

Gernot

On Monday, February 25, 2013 11:03:41 PM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 Shoji,

 thanks for the link to the previous discussion. I did search the group 
 before posting (honest!) but poor keyword choice, I guess. Interesting that 
 the inside mount option didn't come up, though. 

 The problem with trying it both ways is that that requires straight struts 
 for the outside mount, and bent ones for the inside. 

 Cheers,

 Gernot


 On Monday, February 25, 2013 10:51:37 PM UTC+7, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 Hi Gernot,
 There was an earlier discussion on alternative installs for Mark's Rack 
 (including your question on struts to dropout eyelets): 
 https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/5waTg7bA4co/discussion

 I'd just try it out either way. Attaching both struts to the outside 
 eyelet (like Miesha's) is a simpler installation than one strut inside, the 
 other outside. I don't think it will make it more rigid/sturdy, but maybe 
 someone's tried it and can chime in.

 If the intended use if for  4.4lbs, you may want to consider a 
 different rack (like Nitto Front Rack, porteur rack, Paul's Rack, etc.).


 On Monday, February 25, 2013 10:33:27 AM UTC-5, Earl Grey wrote:

 Since my wife carries a lot more than 4.4lbs in the Wald zip-tied to her 
 Mark's, I'd like to add two extra struts from the back eyelets on the rack 
 to the mid-fork braze-ons. I don't have the extra two struts that the 
 Mark's came with, so I was going to order two 16.5cm bent Nitto struts from 
 Riv (I know I need to order the nuts, too). But looking at a couple of 
 photos of Riv staff bikes (Miesha and Brian), I notice that they used 4 
 straight struts and attached them both to the outside of the hourglass 
 mounts on the fork. I was imagining attaching the bent struts to the inside 
 part of the hourglass mounts, and would think that might be marginally more 
 rigid/sturdy. 

 Any reason why I shouldn't? Is there not enough room for brake clearance 
 (Tektro 559s)? Does it look ugly? Any other thoughts? What about using the 
 two short straight struts on the rack's rear eyelets, and getting two long 
 straight struts to connect to the dropout eyelets? Has anyone done that? Do 
 you like it? Is it sturdier? 

 I know I should just call Riv, but it's too early there, and too late 
 here (Thailand) to stay up another 2 hours. 

 Thanks!

 Gernot



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Re: [RBW] Attaching SKS style front fender to a recessed brake bolt nut (Betty Foy)

2013-02-06 Thread Earl Grey
Jim,

that is probably the sensible solution. Thanks everyone for your creative 
thinking. William, it's good to know Riv sells Sheldon Nuts. Not sure why I 
didn't see them before. Stephen, your assessment is correct. Thanks for 
clarifying. 

The only option that seems to have some chance of success is mounting the 
large L-bracket inside the steerer on the brake bolt aft of the daruma. The 
brakes are Tektro 559, and I believe the bolt is not replaceable. Once 
again my love of cantilever brakes is affirmed. Wouldn't have this issue 
with cantis. :)

Cheers,

Gernot


On Wednesday, February 6, 2013 7:41:30 PM UTC+7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:

 A Sheldon nut shouldn't be that expensive to ship to Thailand. It fits 
 easily in a letter-sized envelope.

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[RBW] Re: Keven's Appaloosa Mystery - how does he attach f.der. cable?

2013-02-05 Thread Earl Grey
The tentacular stays are still asymmetric. Look closely and you can
see the left side stay curving down to the chainstay just inside the
rear rim.

Gernot

On Feb 5, 11:36 pm, Aaron Young 1ce...@gmail.com wrote:
 Great looking bike.

 This is the first time I've noticed the tentacular stays are symmetric.
  Were the asymmetric stays only on the Proto-loosa?

 Aaron Young
 Vancouver, WA







 On Tuesday, February 5, 2013, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
  I think it's obvious... Keven IS MacGuyver...

  On Monday, February 4, 2013 11:46:14 PM UTC-5, James Warren wrote:

  The photos show just enough to intrigue, but not not enough to answer the
  question:

 http://www.rivbike.com/**product-p/staff3.htmhttp://www.rivbike.com/product-p/staff3.htm

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[RBW] Re: Betty Build (GB Lierres, alu fenders, hub dynamo, 2 child seats)

2013-02-05 Thread Earl Grey
Actually, many city bikes here come standard with an adult-sized passenger 
seat in lieu of a rear rack, with motorcycle style foot pegs brazed onto 
the chainstays (See my wife's old bike on cyclofiend: 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2011/cc830-gernothuber0711.html 

They also sell baby bike seats made out of rattan here.

I have never seen more than 2 people on a bike here (ourselves excluded), 
though I have seen up to 5 on a scooter. And yes, if they wear miniskirts, 
they ride side saddle, which makes fitting 3-4 people even more of a 
challenge (I have never seen more than 4 adults on a scooter; the family of 
5 I saw on a scooter involved 3 kids). We ride 4-up on our tandem, and on 
our scooter. The scooter has a folding child seat in front of the main 
seat, and the infant goes in a chest-mounted baby carrier.

Gernot


On Saturday, February 2, 2013 11:52:17 PM UTC+7, Allan in Portland wrote:

 Nice, but aren't the locals going to look at you funny? I thought kids in 
 Thailand just rode side-saddle where ever they can fit.

 -Allan

 On Thursday, January 31, 2013 11:52:34 AM UTC-8, Earl Grey wrote:

 The main purpose of this bike will be as my wife's daily short-distance 
 commuter and one or two child hauler (we don't have a car). My Sam and our 
 tandem are also outfitted with two child seat mounts now that #2 is 7 
 months old and ready to be a biker.

 I still need to attach and connect the wired taillight, and connect the 
 front light.

 Partial parts list for those who care; this was yet another cheap and 
 dirty build using a variety of new, used, and NOS items: 

 BM Lumotec IQ Cyo R headlight (on VO bracket)

 BM Seculite Plus taillight

 Shimano D3-N80 generator hub

 2013 Shimano LX rear hub for its nice polished finish

 Velocity Synergy rims, Wheelsmith double butted spokes, wheels built by 
 yours truly, Grand Bois Lierre (650Bx38mm) tires (was worried about 
 clearance with Hetres. The Lierres look and feel great)

 (Okay. So I did splurge on the lights and the wheels.)

 VO fluted 700C fenders (had them lying around. Pretty easy to bend down 
 to 650B, and longer to boot)

 1990 LX derailer (parts bin; from my Fisher)

 ca. 1993 DX front derailer (NOS)

 Sugino compact double crank (40x26)

 Shimano Ultegra cassette (12-27; parts bin)

 Stronglight bottom bracket

 VO pedals (will be swapped with GripKings)

 Hebie 605 Royal Mail two-legged kickstand (rated to 60kg! rock-solid, 
 super heavy; this is the kickstand to get if you are going to mount two 
 child seats)

 Used, cheapish and shortish Nitto stem (the square black thing is a child 
 seat mount)

 Used X-Mission townie handlebars (thanks Paul)

 Sunrace friction shifters 

 Shimano brakelevers

 Tektro 559 brakes

 Bontrager grips

 Ritchey seatpost (26.8mm!)

 Brooks B17S, will be swapped for a B17 Women's

 Nitto Mark's rack

 Wald basket

 Bobike Maxi (rear) and Mini + (front) child seats




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[RBW] New Betty Foy frame: trouble getting bolts into brazeons

2012-12-30 Thread Earl Grey
Seems like the paint was perhaps applied a bit too generously. Never
had this problem on any other frame. On a couple of brazeons, I have
so far been unable to get a bolt in, even when using a bit of oil and
much patience in lining up the bolt. Any suggestions? I don't have a
wire brush small enough to fit in the holes. Maybe nail polish on a Q-
tip? Does that have any chance of working? Other ideas?

Thanks!

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: New Betty Foy frame: trouble getting bolts into brazeons

2012-12-30 Thread Earl Grey
Thanks everyone. Sounds fairly unanimous. :) And thanks for the links,
Smitty. I should have mentioned I am in Thailand, but I have a pretty
well-stocked hardware store here, so with the links on my phone I
should be able to communicate what I need.

Cheers,

Gernot first Betty in Thailand? Huber

On Dec 30, 11:23 pm, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.com wrote:
 Like others have said... clean the threads with a tap. you'll need 3
 things... a 
 handlehttp://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290735cp=256...,
 an M5 
 taphttp://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1290736cp=256...,
 and a drop of oil to lube the tap/threads to prevent binding when you're
 reaming it out. Any hardware or home improvement store should have a tap
 and handle.

 --Smitty







 On Sunday, December 30, 2012 1:24:49 AM UTC-8, Earl Grey wrote:

  Seems like the paint was perhaps applied a bit too generously. Never
  had this problem on any other frame. On a couple of brazeons, I have
  so far been unable to get a bolt in, even when using a bit of oil and
  much patience in lining up the bolt. Any suggestions? I don't have a
  wire brush small enough to fit in the holes. Maybe nail polish on a Q-
  tip? Does that have any chance of working? Other ideas?

  Thanks!

  Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Homemade Accessories for Bikes

2012-12-12 Thread Earl Grey
I haven't made anything from scratch, but I made a banana bag that I 
really like out of a Swiss Army gasmask bag. Cut two holes for the straps 
and sewed around the edges to stop fraying, sewed the bottom corners 
together to narrow the bag for thigh clearance, and cut off the straps and 
attached D rings. The original strap can be re-attached for off-bike 
carrying, but I think I haven't removed the bag once since I made it 3 
years ago. I bought several more of these bags for my other bikes, but 
haven't gotten around to making more.

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

Cheers,

Gernot 
Thailand

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 2:47:13 AM UTC+7, Eli Koral wrote:

 Andy! nice stuff. The turn buttons are a particularly nice addition. Did 
 you already have all the leatherworking tools? Or was this project an 
 excuse to buy tools? (I adore those kind of projects).

 Eli

 On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 11:57:06 PM UTC-8, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:

 The little basket-mounted pouches are a cool idea. I've been thinking of 
 making the same sort of thing but a little larger for the box on my 
 Bakfiets. It's funny... the Bakfiets has got a cargo box big enough for an 
 adult or 4 small children to ride in but I'm often at a loss for a good 
 place to put small items like a camera or sunglasses.   

 As far as stuff that's actually gone beyond an idea... 

 The kid seat http://www.flickr.com/photos/15966859@N07/6812051114/ comes 
 and goes but the leather mud flap is always on my Homer. The wife has an 
 almost matching kid seat and mud 
 flaphttp://www.flickr.com/photos/15966859@N07/7819921346/on her Betty Foy

 I replaced the snaps on my Slickersack with turn 
 buttonshttps://picasaweb.google.com/113148323994353762329/SlickersackImprovement?authuser=0feat=directlinkso
  it'd be easier to go on/off with stuff in the bag. 

 This little 
 dealhttps://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YDPGrUWUxKfSDl9I2ssFn9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlinkgets
  the light out in front of my basket 'cause the beam from the handlebar 
 mounted light was obscured when I had stuff in the basket

 I think my coolest homemade bike accessory is the double kid 
 seathttp://www.flickr.com/photos/15966859@N07/6873390593/for my Big Dummy. 
 I love my Homer and have great adventures on my Riv, but 
 the good (and bad) times I have sharing the bike with my kids are the stuff 
 I'll smile about on my deathbed.  

 --Andy 



 On Thursday, November 22, 2012 11:05:20 AM UTC-8, Tony Lockhart wrote:

 Hello all and Happy Thanksgiving! I just wanted to see if anyone else in 
 the Riv community enjoys making accessories for their bikes. If this is the 
 case, I'd love to see what innovative things you've made. In the meantime, 
 I'll post some images of things that I've made.

 During the past 2 years, I have been trying to perfect the rando bag but 
 ultimately have been displeased with its lack of sturdiness. I enjoy making 
 them, using them for a while, then gifting them to other cycling 
 friends--this is great because it constantly gives me the opportunity to 
 make new bags. While rando bags look great, I have yet to make one as 
 versatile as a Wald basket. And after many years of debate, I have decided 
 to stick with my Wald. With that in mind, I missed the tool pockets 
 typically found at the back of a rando bag. So, I recently decided to 
 create a couple of pouches to hang on the back side of my basket.

 Both pouches are 2 inches deep, 4 inches wide, and 5 inches high. There 
 is also an extra 3 inches of flap available if I try to over-stuff the 
 pouches. It was relatively easy to construct these little bags because 
 canvas is such a forgiving material to work with. I have plastic stiffeners 
 inside the bags (very similar to the ones in Acorn bags) and velcro 
 attachments to keep everything in place. While these dimensions may seem 
 small, I have all of my tools in the left pouch (inner tube, patch kit, 
 multi tool, a pair of CO2 cartridges, 3 tire levers, zip ties, and 4 Irish 
 straps). The pouch on the right is used to keep my cell phone, garage 
 clicker, and keys; there is quite a bit of space left for snacks, a saddle 
 cover, and a bandana. I'd love to see the folks at Riv create some 
 Sackville versions of these because they're extremely versatile.

 Have a look--I am attaching JPEG images to this post. Also, I'd love to 
 see any other accessories people make for their bikes.



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[RBW] Re: Velocity quality

2012-12-09 Thread Earl Grey
I seem to remember from past threads that it was particularly the 36 hole 
O/C Synergies that were cracking. If you have cracked a Synergy, can you 
state whether it was O/C and 36 hole?

I have two 32 hole O/C Synergies on two bikes, with one around 4000 mi/3 
yrs, the other maybe 1500mi/2 yrs, mostly unloaded, but the second one is 
on my rim-braked rigid 29er and sees a lot of single track. Both of them 
are fine. I weigh 175lbs, but bought non-O/C Synergy rears for my next two 
projects to be safe. Getting rims shipped to Thailand is an expensive pain 
in the rear. The only bike I have ever broken spokes on is a tandem with 
no-name hubs that don't support the spoke elbows well, so for me the O/C 
benefit is theoretical and not worth the risk, though as I said, both my 
O/C Synergies are fine so far.

Gernot
Thailand

On Sunday, December 9, 2012 5:45:39 AM UTC+7, Leslie wrote:

 I thought it was pretty clear to be predominantly a batch of O/C 
 Synergies, some Chukkers too it seems... And Velocity not only is easily 
 swapping rims, but have made production changes to address...  

 I'm curious to see if the problem continues, or if it is solved...


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[RBW] Parts wanted for a budget Betty

2012-11-22 Thread Earl Grey
Finally getting my wife a Riv, but since we are both on Thai salaries, 
buying first rate kit new is a challenge. Thus with your permission I'd 
like to rifle through your parts bin/shelved project bin for the following 
(new preferred for that new bike smell, but used in good condition 
certainly considered):

Triple crank 170mm, square taper of course. 46/36/24 or something similar, 
or the nifty Sugino compact double with chainguard instead of big ring
A pair of Tektro R559/Silver side-pull brakes
A pair of Hetres (or Some Xpress?)
Grip Kings or RMX Sneaker pedals
Mark's rack
Suntour XC (Comp, Pro) thumbshifters

Thanks much,

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Parts wanted for a budget Betty

2012-11-22 Thread Earl Grey
Oh yeah, add a Brooks B17S to that list (honey preferred to keep work pants 
the original color)

Gernot

On Friday, November 23, 2012 12:18:14 AM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 Finally getting my wife a Riv, but since we are both on Thai salaries, 
 buying first rate kit new is a challenge. Thus with your permission I'd 
 like to rifle through your parts bin/shelved project bin for the following 
 (new preferred for that new bike smell, but used in good condition 
 certainly considered):

 Triple crank 170mm, square taper of course. 46/36/24 or something similar, 
 or the nifty Sugino compact double with chainguard instead of big ring
 A pair of Tektro R559/Silver side-pull brakes
 A pair of Hetres (or Some Xpress?)
 Grip Kings or RMX Sneaker pedals
 Mark's rack
 Suntour XC (Comp, Pro) thumbshifters

 Thanks much,

 Gernot


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[RBW] Re: Parts wanted for a budget Betty

2012-11-22 Thread Earl Grey
Oh, forgot Shimano 8 speed road hubs, 32 spokes, 600/Ultegra preferred, the 
old skinny kind, or 105

On Friday, November 23, 2012 12:18:14 AM UTC+7, Earl Grey wrote:

 Finally getting my wife a Riv, but since we are both on Thai salaries, 
 buying first rate kit new is a challenge. Thus with your permission I'd 
 like to rifle through your parts bin/shelved project bin for the following 
 (new preferred for that new bike smell, but used in good condition 
 certainly considered):

 Triple crank 170mm, square taper of course. 46/36/24 or something similar, 
 or the nifty Sugino compact double with chainguard instead of big ring
 A pair of Tektro R559/Silver side-pull brakes
 A pair of Hetres (or Some Xpress?)
 Grip Kings or RMX Sneaker pedals
 Mark's rack
 Suntour XC (Comp, Pro) thumbshifters

 Thanks much,

 Gernot


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[RBW] Re: Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-05 Thread Earl Grey
Good point, Pete, but if that is the operating rationale, why is the
Sam on it's forth color? :) It's obviously selling well, too.

Gernot


On Jul 5, 10:04 am, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 If I were Riv, and on my 4,5,6-th reorder of Bettys I wouldnt change a thing. 
  They are obviously selling. If I were Riv and still on my first order of 
 Bettys I wouldn't have had a chance to change anything.
 Either scenario explains the color.

 Pete in CT
 Loving my orange Sam and not orange QB.

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[RBW] Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-04 Thread Earl Grey
Can anyone explain to me (I know, I should write Grant) why the Sam
has gone through 4 gorgeous paint choices (the only one I didn't like
was the original green, but only because of the gold decals; too much
like a pimped Lexus), and Betty is still on her first (not terrible)
paint job. True, there is Ives Gomez, but he sports the same IMHO
tasteless gold decals.

This seems even stranger because of the perceived notion that color
has a much larger influence in women's bike buying decisions. Lest I
be accused of prejudice, my own wife and several female friends have
confirmed this (I know, small sample size).

Why do I care? I have been wanting to buy my wife a Betty Foy for a
while, and she actually wants one, but she pretty much hates the
color, nor does she like black and gold. Upon asking her what color
she DOES like, she can't actually give an answer beyond I'd have to
look at a bunch of bikes. Oh well, at least she knows what she
dislikes, and I am not among them.

Nonetheless, I have a feeling that she is not alone, and that
switching Betty's color every couple of re-orders would increase
sales, as it would increase the color choices over time, and might
also lead to the-red-ones-are-going-away-get-yours-now-type sales. If
the Betty came in a color my wife liked, and that color was going
away, I would have bought one already.

Cheers,

Gernot
Thailand

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[RBW] Re: Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-04 Thread Earl Grey
And yes, she could of course get a custom paint job, but her last bike
was $120 new (Raleigh women's, see 
http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2011/cc830-gernothuber0711.html)
and the stock Betty Foy frame is already more than either of us earn
in a month. We could *afford* it, but it's a difficult to justify
expense.

Gernot

On Jul 4, 10:09 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can anyone explain to me (I know, I should write Grant) why the Sam
 has gone through 4 gorgeous paint choices (the only one I didn't like
 was the original green, but only because of the gold decals; too much
 like a pimped Lexus), and Betty is still on her first (not terrible)
 paint job. True, there is Ives Gomez, but he sports the same IMHO
 tasteless gold decals.

 This seems even stranger because of the perceived notion that color
 has a much larger influence in women's bike buying decisions. Lest I
 be accused of prejudice, my own wife and several female friends have
 confirmed this (I know, small sample size).

 Why do I care? I have been wanting to buy my wife a Betty Foy for a
 while, and she actually wants one, but she pretty much hates the
 color, nor does she like black and gold. Upon asking her what color
 she DOES like, she can't actually give an answer beyond I'd have to
 look at a bunch of bikes. Oh well, at least she knows what she
 dislikes, and I am not among them.

 Nonetheless, I have a feeling that she is not alone, and that
 switching Betty's color every couple of re-orders would increase
 sales, as it would increase the color choices over time, and might
 also lead to the-red-ones-are-going-away-get-yours-now-type sales. If
 the Betty came in a color my wife liked, and that color was going
 away, I would have bought one already.

 Cheers,

 Gernot
 Thailand

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[RBW] Re: Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-04 Thread Earl Grey
Couldn't agree more about the orange Sam. Every time I see one, I
smile, and I see one everyday, just by looking straight down. :)

And there is actually another orange one Chiang Mai, which my friend
Paul bought after seeing mine.

Gernot


On Jul 5, 12:13 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I wish Rivendell would keep one of their amazing orange colors in the 
 rotation as long as the Atlantis color.

 Ram orange, QB orange, Sam orange, all memorable. I understand technical 
 problems made the Ram orange impossible over time, but too quick was the move 
 from that orange Sam. Anytime I see one, I smile.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 4, 2012, at 8:09 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:







  Can anyone explain to me (I know, I should write Grant) why the Sam
  has gone through 4 gorgeous paint choices (the only one I didn't like
  was the original green, but only because of the gold decals; too much
  like a pimped Lexus), and Betty is still on her first (not terrible)
  paint job. True, there is Ives Gomez, but he sports the same IMHO
  tasteless gold decals.

  This seems even stranger because of the perceived notion that color
  has a much larger influence in women's bike buying decisions. Lest I
  be accused of prejudice, my own wife and several female friends have
  confirmed this (I know, small sample size).

  Why do I care? I have been wanting to buy my wife a Betty Foy for a
  while, and she actually wants one, but she pretty much hates the
  color, nor does she like black and gold. Upon asking her what color
  she DOES like, she can't actually give an answer beyond I'd have to
  look at a bunch of bikes. Oh well, at least she knows what she
  dislikes, and I am not among them.

  Nonetheless, I have a feeling that she is not alone, and that
  switching Betty's color every couple of re-orders would increase
  sales, as it would increase the color choices over time, and might
  also lead to the-red-ones-are-going-away-get-yours-now-type sales. If
  the Betty came in a color my wife liked, and that color was going
  away, I would have bought one already.

  Cheers,

  Gernot
  Thailand

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[RBW] Re: Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-04 Thread Earl Grey
Exactly, so why not change the color occasionally on the one bike that
really has no overlap with other Riv models if you like riding in
skirts?

Gernot

On Jul 5, 7:11 am, Eric Platt epericmpl...@gmail.com wrote:
 And I'm on the opposite end.  Purchased the Hillborne because of the green
 paint.  And one of the things that attracted me to the SimpleOne was it was
 green.  And a slime green, to boot.  While the QB orange is nice, I
 personally didn't like the SH orange.  Nothing wrong with it, just didn't
 appeal to me.

 And maybe that's why the colors change, too many folks like one over
 another and this gives more choices.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN







 On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 5:14 PM, Cyclofiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:

  On Jul 4, 2012, at 2:06 PM, Mike wrote:

   On Wednesday, July 4, 2012 10:13:53 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:
  I wish Rivendell would keep one of their amazing orange colors in the
  rotation as long as the Atlantis color.

  Ram orange, QB orange, Sam orange, all memorable. I understand technical
  problems made the Ram orange impossible over time, but too quick was the
  move from that orange Sam. Anytime I see one, I smile.

  Agreed. Orange is pretty much the perfect color for a steel bike.

  Yep.  I'd been trying to rationalize buying the Quickbeam.  I'd been
  thinking that's really the bike for me all through the Coleman Green
  runs.  The day the Orange run was announced, I put down my deposit.
  Something about that color that just makes me smile.  Sun or shade, trail
  or road, warm setting rays of light or blistering midday sun, I look down
  and things seem better.

  - J

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[RBW] Re: tricky rack mounting

2012-07-01 Thread Earl Grey
I assume your front fender has an L-bracket which you placed behind
the fork crown? You might be able to place it in front of the crown,
which would gain you an inch or so. Perhaps not enough to bother...

Gernot


On Jul 1, 7:58 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got aluminum fenders on my Ram from VO;  I like them, but they weren't
 fun to mount, as I was fitting them over 32's.  They're long; however, I
 don't think VO carries the anodized aluminum anymore...

 This is the first time I've used the SKS/Esge fenders;  they seem fine, I'm
 just short in the front from where I want it.   This is a 650b bike, and
 I'm running the fattest tires I can find on it, am using the P65 ones.

 Some elegant solution will arise, I just need to keep mulling it over and
 give it time...

 -L







 On Saturday, June 30, 2012 11:30:36 PM UTC-4, Earl Grey wrote:

  I like the Carradice Super Cs I just got. Haven't used them yet, but
  seem well-built and simple, but with a good (Ortlieb-like) attachment
  system. Not too expensive, either. Order from Wiggle in the UK.

  Or you could go with aluminum fenders. I switched almost all my bikes
  in the last couple of years. Even these disappointingly short ones
  from VO (went on sale shortly after I bought them) give almost full
  frontal coverage:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/7247322734/in/photostream/

  Gernot

  On Jul 1, 9:09 am, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
   PS:  definitely agree on the longer fender bit...  Either need to find
  someone w/ a broken bit to add as an extension, or perhaps get a second
  rear fender and put it on the front, or some such... Or cobble up something
  else... Regardless, yes, I concur, a fender extension under there is
  needed...

   -L

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[RBW] Re: Hunqa/Sam Handlebars

2012-06-30 Thread Earl Grey
If you would consider a non-Nitto, I have found the Jones H-bar  (I
have the Titec version) to be the bee's knees for technical single-
track.

Jones website showing hand positions towards the bottom:
http://www.jonesbikes.com/h-bar.html;
Titec licensed copy on my Fisher Sphinx:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6874833392/

I have never liked standard mtn bike bars, and thus rode single-track
for years with road drop bars, because that is what I like on the
road. The Jones H-bar, however, has greatly improved my ability to
ride technical single track. Standard hand position is even more
angled than the bullmoose, but with a couple of extra hand positions
thrown in. If you want to limit it to the three bars you mentioned,
I'd give the moustache a try (have wanted to try them off-road myself,
but can't get them high enough on my off-road bike), but my guess is
that the bullmoose gives you the most control, if the hand position is
angled enough for you.

Cheers,

Gernot
Thailand

On Jun 30, 7:36 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 ...oops... continuing

 ...limited range of positioning imposed by having a short (i.e. not tall) 
 stem and only two extensions to choose from in the realm of the Nitto RBW 
 Bullmoose.

 (I confess I'm confused as to the intent of the Boscomoose bar. I love my 
 Bosco (58cm HT Al, not -moose). It is flexier than other bars, though. So 
 maybe it's a way of appealing to people who don't want the flex. Personally, 
 I'm fine with it; it's well within my comfort zone. I've come to like it 
 because it provides a different feel. I'd imagine the 55cm CrMo variety 
 addresses anyone's flex concerns. But is the Boscomoose intended to be a 
 rough stuff bar like the Bullmoose? That just strikes me as odd given the 
 bar''s general shape.)

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: tricky rack mounting

2012-06-30 Thread Earl Grey
Nice work! How did you bend the stays? Just another reason to stick
with cantis. :)

Might be nice to get a longer (in front) front fender on there to
protect your load better.

Gernot firmly in the cantis are the best brakes ever camp Huber
Thailand

On Jun 28, 8:09 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 PS:
 Above pic was of the bent strut, here's the rack once 
 mounted:http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/7460286064/in/photostream/

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[RBW] Re: tricky rack mounting

2012-06-30 Thread Earl Grey
I like the Carradice Super Cs I just got. Haven't used them yet, but
seem well-built and simple, but with a good (Ortlieb-like) attachment
system. Not too expensive, either. Order from Wiggle in the UK.

Or you could go with aluminum fenders. I switched almost all my bikes
in the last couple of years. Even these disappointingly short ones
from VO (went on sale shortly after I bought them) give almost full
frontal coverage:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/7247322734/in/photostream/

Gernot


On Jul 1, 9:09 am, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 PS:  definitely agree on the longer fender bit...  Either need to find 
 someone w/ a broken bit to add as an extension, or perhaps get a second rear 
 fender and put it on the front, or some such... Or cobble up something 
 else... Regardless, yes, I concur, a fender extension under there is needed...

 -L

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[RBW] Re: Mary Bar/Technomic stem incompatible?

2012-06-18 Thread Earl Grey
Not sure there is enough space for this, but can you try a 26mm
Technomic, and after you have gotten the bars in place, slide in a
shim?

Good luck,

Gernot


On Jun 18, 4:11 am, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote:
 It seems to be accepted practice to spread closed face stems a little
 to insert the bars. There is/was actually a special stem pry tool
 made for the purpose. Jan Heine has a neat trick to accomplish the
 same with bolt+nut+coin:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/inserting-a-handlebar-into-a...

 Those Mary bars seem like a steal. I picked up an aluminum and a cr-mo
 set to try. Be warned, the cr-mo finish is bead blasted and feels like
 sharkskin--not exactly the chrome finsih advertised. Not that i'm
 complaining for $20. Report back on how you like the Marys!

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or

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[RBW] Re: Accugauge: fits Presta?

2012-06-15 Thread Earl Grey
They make both versions, but not a combo:

http://www.ghmeiser.com/bicycle.htm

I wonder if you can turn one into the other by replacing the gasket
etc? I have the presta one.

Gernot

On Jun 15, 2:17 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think I've got one of those, or at least it looks very similar, but
 it's Schraeder only. Do they make this type of gauge in Presta, or do
 y'all have to use an adaptor?

 --
 Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you.

 Flannery O'Connor

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, 
 ACRWhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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[RBW] Re: Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

2012-06-14 Thread Earl Grey
Can anyone recommend a tire gauge specifically for lower pressure
presta applications? (I.e. car gauges won't work.) I run around 20
pounds on some of my fatter tires, and while I don't need something
super accurate, the gauges on my topeak mini pumps won't even register
anything until you are somewhere near 25 or 30 pounds, and I like to
adjust pressure down after riding to the trails on the road.

Thanks,

Gernot


On Jun 12, 1:22 am, Mark Chandler gravelb...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Recently my (several years-old) Accugage stopped holding its reading when I 
 removed it from the valve.  I emailed Accugage, and asked if this could be 
 fixed.  They responded promptly, and informed me that the gauge could be 
 repaired, and that it would only cost $3 for return shipping.  That's 
 definitely good service, IMO.

 Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 14:06:08 -0700
 From: garth...@gmail.com
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

 The Accugage one is about the best you're gonna find.  I've tried various 
 plastic one I thought were accurate  and they were way off !
 Myself, a battery operated gauge is a solution to problem that does not 
 exist... yet creates it's own problem !  Brilliant marketing ! The batteries 
 often drain even when it's not being used and then you go to use it and ... 
 ooops.  No gauge !

 Some people like buying batteries though lol. I'd rather have a gauge 
 that is not dependent on a battery.
 -

 The Topeak onehttp://tinyurl.com/87mf8rnis supposed to be pretty good.

 I have been looking at this analog one:http://tinyurl.com/7aubk6q

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[RBW] Re: Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

2012-06-14 Thread Earl Grey
Okay,

I just tried out my 20 year old, somewhat corroded Accu-Gage that I
thought had stopped working years ago before sending it to be fixed
now that I found out from this thread that it has a lifetime warranty.
I had found a review on Amazon saying that it was worthless for
pressures under 40 psi, which is pretty much all I use these days, so
I was starting to wonder whether I should bother having it repaired.

I did several readings with the Accu-Gage on different tires at
different pressures, and it works (still or again, will never know). I
compared the readings to my cheap Taiwanese?  (Giyo) floor pump (which
agrees with both my Topeak mini pumps once the pressures get high
enough to register on the minis). The Accu-Gage repeatedly read within
a pound or so of the floor pump down to 8-10 psi. The new ones say
they read 3-160 psi, but the stop on the needle for mine is actually
at 6 psi, so it can't read below that. Caveat: the dial is a bit small
if your eye sight isn't the best.

Cheers,

Gernot (love/hate it when I can answer my own questions) Huber


On Jun 14, 11:44 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 +1 for anything beside the Topeak electric one that registers down to
 10 (ten) psi.









 On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 10:43 AM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  +1 on that request. Anything that accurately reads in the 20 lbs range.

  On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:

  Can anyone recommend a tire gauge specifically for lower pressure
  presta applications? (I.e. car gauges won't work.) I run around 20
  pounds on some of my fatter tires, and while I don't need something
  super accurate, the gauges on my topeak mini pumps won't even register
  anything until you are somewhere near 25 or 30 pounds, and I like to
  adjust pressure down after riding to the trails on the road.

  Thanks,

  Gernot

  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA

  **
  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
  that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
  love.”

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 Flannery O'Connor

 -
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, 
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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Courier In Love with My Atlantis

2012-06-14 Thread Earl Grey
There are at least 4 Rivs (and one Heron) in Chiang Mai, Thailand. One
I recruited at the local organic farmer's market, one I have never
seen. I ride regularly with the recruit (Paul) and an old-timer Rivver
(Kip) who I saw on this list lived in CM. We also met Doug P when he
came through town, though sadly he didn't have time to ride with us.

Gernot
Thailand

On Jun 14, 11:52 pm, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Jim observed that I always find it surprising that people in other
 places don't see more Rivs
 in the wild. I see several per week aside from my job. Minneapolis
 must be
 a hotbed of misfits!

 I hear there is a really active Rivendell dealer in the Twin Cities;
 that may account some for the popularity in that area. :)

 Mainstream cycling in So Cal is so racer focused that being a
 cycling misfit actually puts one cloer to the real world.

 dougP

 On Jun 14, 9:19 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
 wrote:







  I used the term cycling misfits above in the most loving possible way.
  Almost every Riv owner or fan feels alienated from mainstream cycling in
  some way. Given the objective weirdness of mainstream cycling, being a
  misfit in this context is nothing to be ashamed of! You can categorize
  yourself based on how you don't fit in to the dominant cycling paradigms.
  I'm not going into specifics.

  I always find it surprising that people in other places don't see more Rivs
  in the wild. I see several per week aside from my job. Minneapolis must be
  a hotbed of misfits!

  On Thursday, June 14, 2012 10:14:01 AM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

   In fact, this should be a group question -- everyone sing along!

   -Original Message-
   From: Allingham II, Thomas J (WIL)
   Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 11:13 AM
   To: 'rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com'
   Subject: RE: [RBW] Bicycle Courier In Love with My Atlantis

   Can't resist asking, Jim -- in your (I assume better informed than mine,
   since I've never encountered another Riv of any kind in my neck of the
   Eastern Meglopolis) view, how many of those distinct groups are there, and
   can you name the ones other than the tatted and pierced
   anarchist/punker/hipsters?  I desperately need to know to which group I
   belong (raising whispers of Groucho in my mind).

   -Original Message-
   From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
   rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thill - Hiawatha
   Cyclery
   Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 7:37 PM
   To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Subject: [RBW] Bicycle Courier In Love with My Atlantis

   Among the various distinct groups of cycling misfits that are drawn to
   Rivendell, the tatted and pierced anarchist/punker/hipster is well
   represented. I was going to point this out in the Riv meets Riv in the 
   wild
   thread, to point out that not all Riv-types have much in common, aside 
   from
   bike brand choice.

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[RBW] Re: Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

2012-06-14 Thread Earl Grey
Thanks Ted, Accu Gage is a trademark of G.H. Meiser. They are the same
thing. I know they make 30 psi gauges, but I thought those are
Schrader only (for cars). Would be great if there was a Presta
version.

Gernot


On Jun 15, 11:35 am, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
 I believe Meiser makes one with a 0 to 30 psi face. The Meiser gauges
 look a lot like the accu-gauge being discussed in this thread, and
 might be the same mfg.

 On Jun 14, 9:32 am, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:







  Can anyone recommend a tire gauge specifically for lower pressure
  presta applications? (I.e. car gauges won't work.) I run around 20
  pounds on some of my fatter tires, and while I don't need something
  super accurate, the gauges on my topeak mini pumps won't even register
  anything until you are somewhere near 25 or 30 pounds, and I like to
  adjust pressure down after riding to the trails on the road.

  Thanks,

  Gernot

  On Jun 12, 1:22 am, Mark Chandler gravelb...@hotmail.com wrote:

   Recently my (several years-old) Accugage stopped holding its reading when 
   I removed it from the valve.  I emailed Accugage, and asked if this could 
   be fixed.  They responded promptly, and informed me that the gauge could 
   be repaired, and that it would only cost $3 for return shipping.  That's 
   definitely good service, IMO.

   Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 14:06:08 -0700
   From: garth...@gmail.com
   To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
   Subject: Re: [RBW] Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

   The Accugage one is about the best you're gonna find.  I've tried various 
   plastic one I thought were accurate  and they were way off !
   Myself, a battery operated gauge is a solution to problem that does not 
   exist... yet creates it's own problem !  Brilliant marketing ! The 
   batteries often drain even when it's not being used and then you go to 
   use it and ... ooops.  No gauge !

   Some people like buying batteries though lol. I'd rather have a gauge 
   that is not dependent on a battery.
   -

   The Topeak onehttp://tinyurl.com/87mf8rnissupposedto be pretty good.

   I have been looking at this analog one:http://tinyurl.com/7aubk6q

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[RBW] Re: Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

2012-06-10 Thread Earl Grey
Your gauge on your floor pump may not be accurate, but that doesn't
mean it's not useful, assuming that it is consistent (which it most
likely is, and besides, that's easy to check). Find the pressure that
works for you by trial and error: Let out air until the cornering gets
iffy or you start to fear pinch flats, put a bit of air back in, note
what your gauge reads then, and just pump to that number from then on,
regardless of whether it reads 10 or 110psi.

Cheers,

Gernot


On Jun 10, 11:24 pm, Cyclofiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Thumb and forefinger, but - importantly - pinched from the top of the
 tire with the finger on the rim, as opposed to sidewall pinching.
 I'll recalibrate periodically with the gauge on my floor pump, but
 that's what works*.

 - J

 Shades of John Muir's Torque Wrench

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne terra cotta

2012-06-03 Thread Earl Grey
What Kendas were you running?

Gernot

On Jun 3, 3:07 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 I put a set of the brownish Schwalbe Delta Cruisers RBW sells on my green 
 Hillborne today. They certainly feel better than the Kendas I'd been using, 
 even though they are narrower. Not all cush is the same, I guess. The 
 700x38 Kendas were more cushy but were also a little squirmy even at 70psi 
 (normally I kept them at 60psi). The Schwalbes are cushy enough and generally 
 feel more stable (at 60psi). They are definitely quieter. And I find I 
 appreciate the increased clearance under the fender. More importantly, the 
 Schwalbes mount better. They went on my rims by hand yet were solidly seated 
 and very round right away, with little shifting about on my part (VO Raid in 
 front, Velocity Cliffhanger in back). The Kendas always went on somewhat 
 easily but required some considerable tweaking to get them mounted fairly 
 evenly and securely.

 This sounds like the Kendas sucked. I never felt that way (and still don't). 
 If they were mediocre in use certainly it could be understood; they cost ~$16 
 through Amazon Prime. They have a nice-looking tan sidewall. And I never had 
 any flats in a few thousand miles of riding. The Schwalbes are just better, 
 as one might expect at almost twice the price. (I'm assuming my generally 
 flat-free riding will continue.) indeed, I'd certainly hope that Marathon 
 Supremes would be significantly better than these Delta Cruisers, at almost 
 2.5X the price. I'm just not willing to go that far yet for non-studded 
 tires. Baby steps.

 Oh, and of course the brownish color looks good with the green bike; plenty 
 of pictures on the RBW site to confirm that.

 The Delta Cruisers were enough of an immediate improvement that I ordered a 
 pair of creme Delta Cruisers for my orange Hillborne. Dreamscicle?

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne show bike

2012-05-31 Thread Earl Grey
I run 40mm tires (Kenda Kwick Roller EZ Ride) under 52mm VO Zeppelin
fenders on a 56cm Sam. Plenty of room under the fenders.

Gernot

On May 30, 11:46 am, Andy Smitty Schmidt 54ca...@gmail.com wrote:
 If you want to ruffle the feathers of fashion and get some awesome
 short-ish pants in the deal, try the MUSA Knickers.

 Would love to see pics of the diamond/harlequin wrapped bar when you do it.
 I've been thinking to try it but haven't gotten around to it.

 FWIW... I had to up-size my fenders (to 50mm... I think) to get adequate
 clearance under my Supremes.

 --Andy







 On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 9:27:45 PM UTC-7, charlie wrote:

  Just acquired some lime green cloth bar tape which I hope to weave
  into a diamond pattern (along with blue tape) on the new green
  Hillborne's mustache bars. Ordered a set of 700x35 creme colored tires
  since I tried my Schwalbe Supremes (38mm actual) and they wouldn't fit
  under fenders with enough clearance to suit me. I'm hoping to ride
  this in an up and coming 'family style' ride put on by the county park
  department in my area. I'm also enjoying my new MUSA shorts and blue
  suspenders (nothing like plumbers crack to spoil a fellow riders view)
  The fit is nice and I plan to buy another pair along with some long
  pants now that I know they fit.
  Not sure if the Creme tires are long lasting (UV / rubber wise) but
  I've seen a few bicycles fitted with them and they look kind of
  vintage. Its a groovin bicycle and I'm glad I purchased it. If any of
  you are on the fence regarding the purchase of a Hillborne it is a
  fine riding bicycle. Not a tank and not a flyweight just a solid ride
  that handles predictably. When price is a consideration, I don't think
  you could purchase a nicer riding Rivendell.

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[RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-27 Thread Earl Grey
I carry a full sized DSLR (Nikon D70s or D300) in a handlebar bag,
either the Ortlieb, or an Acorn Boxy Rando (depending on the bike). I
use the removable padded insert from my ThinkTank Speed Demon camera
bag, but I also have the Ortlieb camera insert which works fine as
well. Fast access, very well protected from sweat, rain crashes, etc.

Gernot

On May 27, 11:11 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 How ready to go are you thinking of?  a rando-bag is the natural option,
 but there are a number of strap/harness options.  I use an black-rapid
 strap which keeps an SLR camera at your hip, there is a buckle which can
 control the amount of play in the strap.  though i would not use this for a
 full-size dslr on a bike myself, for that i would use a rando bag, or if i
 wanted it on my body a bike messenger bag that i could unbuckle and swing
 to the front and pull out.

 i'm just not seeing the use case where the extra 10-15 seconds of swinging
 it around and pulling it out of a shoulder bag, or stopping and pulling it
 out of a rando bag in front would make a difference?  is it the constant
 pulling it out and putting it away that you're wanting to avoid?







 On Sunday, May 27, 2012 3:18:35 AM UTC-4, stonehog wrote:

  I'm curious of those who bring a small SLR or mirrorless camera on trips,
  have you found a good way to carry it so you have it ready quickly?  I've
  always used a small point  shoot kept in a pocket or the small pocket in
  my acorn boxy rando bag.  I'm looking for a way to have a larger camera
  ready to photograph the scenes I'm biking by on longer rides.  I seem to
  recall Grant talking about some kind of harness a few years back?

  Brian
  Seattle, WA

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[RBW] Re: 52mm VO fenders on 700c Sam?

2012-05-13 Thread Earl Grey
Yes. They work. Got them on my 56cm Sam. Had to bend the fenders a wee
bit to fit inside the chain stays, me thinks, or maybe not. Been a
while.

Can't find a really good photo, but here is one anyway:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6159188380/in/photostream/lightbox/

I usually run 42mm semi-slicks, btw. Plenty of room.

Gernot


On May 11, 8:56 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Hi, all.

 I got a good deal on some 47-48mm VO aluminum fenders once and am generally 
 happy with them. The only thing I'd change is that they are finicky to set up 
 initially so that they don't interfere with my largest tires (studded 
 40-622). A little extra fender width might do the trick.

 So the question is: does anyone here use the VO 52mm zeppelin fenders on 
 their 700c Hillborne? Or more generally, do any 700c Sam owners have any 
 thoughts on whether they'd work? My eyes tell me they might, based on the 
 room around my current fenders. But it's close enough (especially near the 
 chainstays) that I thought I'd consult The Collective.

 Thanks!

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean
 who prefers metal fenders and matches bags

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[RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne photos

2012-05-06 Thread Earl Grey
Love the way the pump fits just between the double tubes. Great idea
to get a white pump, mimics the look of the white panel on the seat
tube. How are you liking the longboards? Can't help but notice that
those fenders are still short compared to aluminum Honjos/VOs, esp
forward of the fork crown. I used to swear by SKS but the last 3
fender pairs I have bought were aluminum.

Enjoy!

Gernot


On May 6, 9:23 am, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3924434835546set=a.252263587...

 Here is the new bicycle as I have it set up now..some older parts,
 some newer.great ride! Everything went together without a problem
 and didn't even have to switch so much as a cable.

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front Rack With Removable Pannier Supports

2012-05-06 Thread Earl Grey
Yes, I mean the Nova, and the bike I am using on has mid fork braze-
ons, but I have used clams before w/o problems on other bikes. Some
argue that clamps are stronger...

In terms of fork stiffening, what Thomas Skean said. :)

Gernot


On May 4, 6:53 am, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote:
 Earl,

 I'm assuming you're referring to the Tara or Nova and I must admit that
 this approach is growing on me (at considerably less than  the Campee) as I
 already have the Mini-Front.  I assume you mounted the Tubus to the  forks
 with clamps?

 I haven't read the BQ article you reference, but I'm not sure I follow the
 point about attaching a rack to the drop outs and stiffening the fork in an
 undesirable way.  The Tubus attacks to the drop outs.  Clarify?

 DG.



 On Thursday, May 3, 2012 7:41:40 AM UTC-6, Earl Grey wrote:

  I considered the Campee front rack, but then went with a Nitto M-12
  and a completely separate stainless Tubus low-rider instead. The low
  rider can be added and removed probably as easily as the pannier
  supports on the campee. I don't know the weight comparison, for the
  full set up, but run only the mini rack 95% of the time. What made me
  go this route are reports I have read (in BQ and on the net) that
  front racks that attach to the drop-outs may stiffen the fork and
  negatively impact the ride quality.

  Not my own bike, but this photo inspired my setup:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ah_blake/6592931659/in/photostream/

  Gernot

  On May 2, 9:58 am, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote:
   Anyone have experience with these racks?  I like the idea of being able
  to
   take the pannier supports off when I don't need them and just support by
   Berthoud bag, but wonder if its stable once the panniers are mounted.
    Seems like it might flex, a lot.  Rube Goldberg machine or elegant
   solution?

  http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=146_2...

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[RBW] Re: Upcoming Hunqa

2012-05-03 Thread Earl Grey
I have never had woodies, but I do believe that they do not offer the
same spray protection as ESGE or aluminum fenders. They are gorgeous,
but maybe you should see if you can try out someone's bike with
woodies in the rain before laying down the cash.

Gernot


On May 3, 7:28 am, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
 I lost it and bit at one of the last 54c gray/bean Hunqapillars.  It should
 be arriving next week, and I'm starting to think about the build.  I will
 be using it to complement my rando A. Homer H. for S24O and commute duty.
  As I live in a wet climate, fenders are a year-round necessity.  The pics
 of the DevilBunny bike (http://flic.kr/p/8JjZqY) make me happy, and I'm
 very interested in some color matched wood fenders.  Does anyone have
 experience with the Woodies?  http://www.woodysfenders.com/store/ How
 about Anderson out of 
 Bellingham?http://creativeopenings.com/CO_Fenders/woodfenders.htm

 Help!

 Brian
 Seattle, WA

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Campee Front Rack With Removable Pannier Supports

2012-05-03 Thread Earl Grey
I considered the Campee front rack, but then went with a Nitto M-12
and a completely separate stainless Tubus low-rider instead. The low
rider can be added and removed probably as easily as the pannier
supports on the campee. I don't know the weight comparison, for the
full set up, but run only the mini rack 95% of the time. What made me
go this route are reports I have read (in BQ and on the net) that
front racks that attach to the drop-outs may stiffen the fork and
negatively impact the ride quality.

Not my own bike, but this photo inspired my setup:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ah_blake/6592931659/in/photostream/

Gernot


On May 2, 9:58 am, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote:
 Anyone have experience with these racks?  I like the idea of being able to
 take the pannier supports off when I don't need them and just support by
 Berthoud bag, but wonder if its stable once the panniers are mounted.
  Seems like it might flex, a lot.  Rube Goldberg machine or elegant
 solution?

 http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=146_2...

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[RBW] Re: I could bend the CrMo Nitto rack to make it level, right?

2012-04-29 Thread Earl Grey
I have successfully bent a Nitto M-12 (mounts to the canti posts) to
fit level on a bike that also has huge clearance between tire and fork
crown: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6126662617/ (shown
with 52mm knobbies and fenders!)

Worked quite well, so I wouldn't worry about bending the Nitto Mini.
However, you have another brand new option. Compass Bicycles now
carries a custom Grand Bois Nitto front rack designed for greater
distance between canti posts and fork crown hole:
http://www.compasscycle.com/racks_gb_wide.html (Click on the image
showing both racks to see the appropriate measurements)

I would pick this option over a Mark's because like the Mini this rack
is non-adjustable and thus much stronger (and perhaps the most
beautiful of all of them).

Good luck,

Gernot




On Apr 30, 7:04 am, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote:
 Would a mark's rack in the front work better? You would need a bolt an nut
 setup through the fork crown of course and you would have to buy another
 rack but for self confessed OCD people like myself that is a small price to
 pay to have perfection.  Its a bit like fenderlines though, where alot of
 the times they work fine but are unpleasing to the eyes so they draw more
 attention than is really necessary. If only I could take my own advice on
 this though



 On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Ryan Ray ryanr...@gmail.com wrote:
  Looking at your red Atlantis, I feel sorry for everyone with the
  slower, minty colored Atlanti.

  And you aren't splitting hairs with that rack. I would spend some time
  fixing it too.

  Ryan

  On Apr 29, 8:24 am, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
   My front mini-rack (not a Mark's, the fork-crown-hole mount style) has a
  slope to it when mounted on my Atlantis:

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/46035786@N07/7122164137/in/photostream/

   I'm probably splitting hairs, because the picture seems to exaggerate
  it, and the function is fine. But, in the constructeur spirit, I'm thinking
  of making it level.
   There is no reason I could not make a slight bend to the tubular CrMo
  rack, correct? I actually know the answer to that; I'm wondering if anyone
  has tried it on this rack?

   Thanks,
   Jim W.

   p.s. Perhaps instead I should use those top-of-the-fork-crown mounts
  that I had added to the frame and put on a Mark's rack. On all the
  Hunqapillars, Bombadils, and Atlantis's out there that have them, those
  seem to be the least used cool Rivendell thing.

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[RBW] Re: What fenders on a Soma San Marcos?

2012-04-01 Thread Earl Grey
Yes, the 37s probably won't fit well over the 32s, but contact Riv to
make sure the Amos can take 45s, which it may not! Plastic fenders,
which I no longer prefer, do have the advantage of fitting over bigger
tires as they don't have rolled edges. So if the 45s don't fit, you
may have to go with a 40mm or so plastic.

Gernot

On Apr 1, 8:20 am, Brian Campbell bdcampbel...@gmail.com wrote:
 45mm then. General rule of thumb is 10mm larger fender (or thereabout) than
 the tire you will run.







 On Friday, March 30, 2012 6:59:40 PM UTC-4, Reed Kennedy wrote:

  I've now got nearly all the parts for my 3 speed Soma San Marcos build!

  Anybody know the largest fender this frame will fit? I'm thinking Velo
  Orange hammered fenders, but I'm not sure if I should go with the 37mm or
  the 45mm.

  It'd be dreamy to run 32mm Paselas with fenders if I can get away with it.

  (This is a 63cm and will wear Grand Compe 610 brakes, for what it's worth.)

  Reed

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[RBW] Re: 650b Alternatives to Pari Motos.

2012-03-27 Thread Earl Grey
The obvious choice are Grand Bois Hetres (42mm). Super low rolling
resistance and pretty low weight, fat enough for serious off-roading,
seem to last 3-5000 miles (if memory of other people's posts serves).
Best tire ever made, IMHO. If you really want to go skinny, go Grand
Bois Cypres (32mm).

Gernot
Thailand

On Mar 27, 10:11 pm, RJM crccpadu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am looking for some alternatives to Pari Motos for my Sam.  I have been
 having a problem with flats with these tires, and they seem like they are
 wearing out quicker than I would like. Looking for something that will
 still have some performance and won't be sluggish on the road but will
 still be able to take some road abuse.  I have a spare wheelset with Fatty
 Rumpkins for dirt and touring so I have that kind of stuff covered.  Any
 ideas, recommendations or opinions?

 Thanks.

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[RBW] Re: Best rain cover for a Brooks?

2012-03-27 Thread Earl Grey
Here in the tropics, the elastic on the Aardvarks gives up within
months. The best cover I ever had was the Rivendell custom made that
they no longer carry (because they need to order 300 at a time; bad
for cash flow). Shall we see if we can get a group order going? I'll
take 5...seriously.

Gernot
Thailand

On Mar 27, 6:22 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Mon, 2012-03-26 at 21:29 -1000, Robert F. Harrison wrote:
  I use one of the Aardvark covers from Riv these
  days.http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/s91.htm

 I do, too.  It works well.



  I have a couple of actual Brooks covers but I generally don't use them
  if I have to be away from my bike because they clearly say Brooks on
  them.

 I have one of those, too.  It was never waterproof -- I fixed that by
 using a plastic bowl cover under it -- but the elastic stretched out and
 became useless after a few years.

  The Aardvark is cheap (but not shoddy), works great, and as it says in
  the promo, it disguises a fine leather saddle.

 And keeps it dry in the rain, too.

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[RBW] Re: How long did your Brooks saddle take to break in?

2012-03-26 Thread Earl Grey
The honey B17 Special on my 2009 Sam now has 2.5 years on it (and
maybe 4000 miles?), and seems ready for a bit of tightening, as the
sag is getting quite noticeable. I remember thinking it took a while
to break in, at least 500-1000 miles (I am around 170 lbs). I have a
new brown B17 Titanium on my 2011 rSogn, and it seems to be more
comfortable right out of the box, though it hasn't broken in (changed
shape) noticeably yet, after perhaps 400 miles. The plain black B17 on
my tandem, which has been there since 2008 and a few thousand miles
still doesn't really seem broken in, but is reasonably comfortable.

Has someone come up with a standard for when to tighten Brooks, as
overtightening seems to be the surest way to kill one? It would be
easy to measure the sag relative to a straight line (string) from nose
to tail, so it would be nice to have a ball park figure, i.e. if more
than 2 cm of sag, tighten until reduced to 1cm.

Cheers,

Gernot


On Mar 26, 3:57 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just completed a 200k on a Specialized Avatar. 6'6, 230. Supreme comfort.
 I'm pretty sore but not where I sit.
 Plus I drove home with the bike on the roof rack, in a pretty good rain. No
 worries about it getting ruined.
 Just sayin'

 On Sunday, March 25, 2012, davidfrench nydavidfo...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'd have loved to bring my opinion and say how bad my brooks felt under

 my butt for miles and miles but some bastard saved me from the pain of this
 useless hype and stole it downtown SF while i was at the movie theater for
 Tintin with the kid... I wish long long miles of butt pain to the one who  
 inheritated it...

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[RBW] Re: Any truly appealing panniers I'm missing?

2012-03-13 Thread Earl Grey
Has anyone tried the new Brooks Land's End panniers? Look like roll-
top Ortliebs, but made from a matte, greyish-brown waterproof
synthetic with a subtle plaid weave. Look appealing, but double the
price of the Ortliebs ($170 PER pannier). My assessment is that
everything Brooks makes except for their steel-railed saddles is way
overpriced. Too bad. The saddles OTOH are a bargain.

Gernot


On Mar 10, 3:10 am, Toshi Takeuchi tto...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Patrick,

 The Carradice Super C hooks are super nice.  They start wide and then
 you engage the hook until it locks into the rack. It handles many
 widths of racks including my wider Old Man Mountain? rack and skinnier
 blackburn rack.  The Ortlieb comes with different adapters that allow
 you to use it with different racks, so it's not as useful in that
 regard because you would have to change out the adapters to use with
 different racks (I don't know the maximum width).

 Best,
 Toshi







 On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 10:47 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  Thanks, Toshi. If I remember the Carradice system from the --- senile mental
  fart: forget the -- aha! Kendalls! -- If I remember those properly the C
  system was a bit less bulky than Ortlieb's; I had to grind the outer hook
  covers down on my Packers and smaller front packers to clear the fatter 1.35
  Kojak when fitting them to the very minimalist Chauncey Matthews rear rack.

  I must check the Carradices if and when I next buy some. Meanwhile the
  Ortliebs are very, very nice.

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[RBW] Re: Any truly appealing panniers I'm missing?

2012-03-13 Thread Earl Grey
The Carradice Super Cs do look really nice. A little proletarian, but
purpose-built. Are the weights on the Carradice site accurate? Because
if they are, they are about half the weight of Ortliebs (Super C:
1150g for 54L, Ortlieb Backroller: ~2180g for 50L). I always thought
cotton duck, though nice, was heavy. Guess I was wrong? Or are they
listing weight per pannier? But then Carradice's Ortlieb knock-offs
are also more than double the weight...

Thanks,

Gernot


On Mar 13, 2:07 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone tried the new Brooks Land's End panniers? Look like roll-
 top Ortliebs, but made from a matte, greyish-brown waterproof
 synthetic with a subtle plaid weave. Look appealing, but double the
 price of the Ortliebs ($170 PER pannier). My assessment is that
 everything Brooks makes except for their steel-railed saddles is way
 overpriced. Too bad. The saddles OTOH are a bargain.

 Gernot

 On Mar 10, 3:10 am, Toshi Takeuchi tto...@gmail.com wrote:







  Hi Patrick,

  The Carradice Super C hooks are super nice.  They start wide and then
  you engage the hook until it locks into the rack. It handles many
  widths of racks including my wider Old Man Mountain? rack and skinnier
  blackburn rack.  The Ortlieb comes with different adapters that allow
  you to use it with different racks, so it's not as useful in that
  regard because you would have to change out the adapters to use with
  different racks (I don't know the maximum width).

  Best,
  Toshi

  On Fri, Mar 9, 2012 at 10:47 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
   Thanks, Toshi. If I remember the Carradice system from the --- senile 
   mental
   fart: forget the -- aha! Kendalls! -- If I remember those properly the C
   system was a bit less bulky than Ortlieb's; I had to grind the outer hook
   covers down on my Packers and smaller front packers to clear the fatter 
   1.35
   Kojak when fitting them to the very minimalist Chauncey Matthews rear 
   rack.

   I must check the Carradices if and when I next buy some. Meanwhile the
   Ortliebs are very, very nice.

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[RBW] Re: One of the bikes you could have seen at NAHBS

2012-03-07 Thread Earl Grey
That's bloody gorgeous (though the fork bend could be improved). I bet you 
it rides great. I have a 2009 Sam, a 2011 Rawland rSogn, and both are 
fabulous bikes. I also have a 1990 Fisher Sphinx (Gary's early take on a 
monstercross) which I have recently converted to a rigid 29er, and I am 
absolutely loving it. Though if someone wanted to trade their Hunqapillar 
for it, I wouldn't say no. :)

Cheers,

Gernot


On Wednesday, March 7, 2012 6:37:58 AM UTC+7, William wrote:

 http://galluscycles.com/adventure_a.html 

 I didn't catch this bike at the show in person, but it did catch my eye in 
 the after-photos.  It's built like an old Ritchey (fillets), to a geometry 
 like a 1992 or 1993 Bridgestone, except it takes 650B wheels.   Pretty darn 
 sharp looking bike, IMO.  I'm still making up my mind if I think this is 
 being retro just for retro sake.  The fact is a LOT of people are doing 
 1983 Stumpjumper restorations and loving them.  So those bikes still work. 
  Why not make a new bike that acknowledges that those bikes got several 
 things right?  


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[RBW] Re: 30 km and 68 stream crossings ( better photos)

2012-03-01 Thread Earl Grey
This was perhaps the most fun ride I have ever done. I looked on the
OSM bike map for the area and discovered that the creek intersects a
major road 6 km farther upstream, so perhaps we'll try to ride up the
creek all the way next time, but I'll think I'll switch to the Fisher
with its 50mm tires for that.

Gernot
Thailand

On Mar 1, 10:11 am, Manuel Acosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 This is awesome! I wish I know more creeks the movies look fun!

 On Feb 27, 5:32 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:







  Paul on his Sam Hillborne and I re-rode the trail we discovered two
  weeks ago, but this time shortened the approach by driving his truck
  about 15km south of town so that we could explore a bit further before
  I had to get back to teach yoga. Paul also brought along his friend
  Rob, who borrowed my 1991 Gary Fisher Sphinx 29er (not a typo).
  Actually it was sold back then with 38mm knobbies and drop bars as a
  monstercross (another category that didn't exist in '91), but
  recently I put some Jones H-bars and XC Comp thumb shifters on for
  more technical off-road riding, and 50mm Marathon XRs.

  Photos start here:http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/page2/

  We skipped the long dirt mountain pass, and rolled up the little
  remote valley in beautiful warm morning light, made even softer by the
  high air pollution from burned-off fields and forest understory. We
  zoomed past the Wat and were able to get more than twice as far up the
  dirt trail this time, and hit 68 instead of 30 stream crossings. We
  once again had to turn around because of time constraints, as we spent
  too much time taking photos, but by the time we turned around, the
  trail was mostly non-existent, running straight up the creek bed for
  hundreds of feet at a time, with only occasional on-land sections. But
  occasional ATV tire tracks where the trail entered and exited the
  creek showed us that it is actually in use, and that the locals really
  just drive up the creek. A few times the water was deep enough to
  submerge the hubs, but we kept going. Coming back down the trail,
  without stopping for photos, took us 35 minutes, during which we
  crossed the creek 34
  times, so not quite one crossing per minute!

  Back on the road, once again racing against time, I almost ran over a
  6 to 7 foot snake of unidentified species. I am pretty sure it was
  neither a cobra nor a python, but that's about all I can say. It
  looked grey with longitudinal stripes. It came out of nowhere crossing
  the road just in front of me, and braking with all I had I stopped
  less than a foot from it. Fortunately it just wanted to get away. Once
  again the Hetres on my rSogn did great, only failing on steep slick
  clay exits out of the creek.

  Gernot 68 stream and 1 snake crossing Huber
  Chiang Mai, Thailand

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[RBW] Re: Hey, let's be careful out there...

2012-03-01 Thread Earl Grey
What strikes me most is how the car driver is never, ever at fault.
Might is right...

Gernot

On Mar 1, 11:21 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Lovely period knickers, though.









 On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 7:22 PM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
  Ah Robert Moses style propoganda, one can thank those attitudes for NYC
  being one of the least bike friendly cities in the US, no matter what
  Doomberg says!

  On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 4:58 PM, MSmith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

  40's bicycle safety pamphlet.  Dang, those things are dangerous!

  http://www.retronaut.co/2012/02/death-caused-by-carelessness-by-the-b...

  -Mike in wintry So. Boston, Mass

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[RBW] 30 km and 68 stream crossings ( better photos)

2012-02-27 Thread Earl Grey
Paul on his Sam Hillborne and I re-rode the trail we discovered two
weeks ago, but this time shortened the approach by driving his truck
about 15km south of town so that we could explore a bit further before
I had to get back to teach yoga. Paul also brought along his friend
Rob, who borrowed my 1991 Gary Fisher Sphinx 29er (not a typo).
Actually it was sold back then with 38mm knobbies and drop bars as a
monstercross (another category that didn't exist in '91), but
recently I put some Jones H-bars and XC Comp thumb shifters on for
more technical off-road riding, and 50mm Marathon XRs.

Photos start here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/page2/

We skipped the long dirt mountain pass, and rolled up the little
remote valley in beautiful warm morning light, made even softer by the
high air pollution from burned-off fields and forest understory. We
zoomed past the Wat and were able to get more than twice as far up the
dirt trail this time, and hit 68 instead of 30 stream crossings. We
once again had to turn around because of time constraints, as we spent
too much time taking photos, but by the time we turned around, the
trail was mostly non-existent, running straight up the creek bed for
hundreds of feet at a time, with only occasional on-land sections. But
occasional ATV tire tracks where the trail entered and exited the
creek showed us that it is actually in use, and that the locals really
just drive up the creek. A few times the water was deep enough to
submerge the hubs, but we kept going. Coming back down the trail,
without stopping for photos, took us 35 minutes, during which we
crossed the creek 34
times, so not quite one crossing per minute!

Back on the road, once again racing against time, I almost ran over a
6 to 7 foot snake of unidentified species. I am pretty sure it was
neither a cobra nor a python, but that's about all I can say. It
looked grey with longitudinal stripes. It came out of nowhere crossing
the road just in front of me, and braking with all I had I stopped
less than a foot from it. Fortunately it just wanted to get away. Once
again the Hetres on my rSogn did great, only failing on steep slick
clay exits out of the creek.

Gernot 68 stream and 1 snake crossing Huber
Chiang Mai, Thailand

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[RBW] Re: Need help deciding... Soma San Marcos or Revamp an 84 Trek 610...

2012-02-19 Thread Earl Grey
Albeit with cantis, and low trail fork, the Rawland rSogn fits the
bill as well, though it now retails for $725. It started at just over
$500, and there has been at least one sale, I think.

http://www.rawlandcycles.com/store/index.php?strWebAction=item_detailintItemID=3953

I got one to complement my Sam Hillborne, which is now set up for
commuting and kid hauling. Aesthetically, the Sam's the winner, but in
terms of versatility and sprightliness, the rSogn nudges ahead
(thinner tubing, and fits 58mm knobbies, and I like the low trail for
running a handlebar bag and still being able to peel oranges on the
go).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6892390267/in/pool-71875606@N00/

Cheers,

Gernot
Thailand

On Feb 19, 12:39 am, Jay in Tel Aviv jayin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I would think that the new (2011) Salsa Casseroll fits that
 description quite well,
 albeit with cantis, which to my mind are a perfectly fine solution.

 I went back and forth for a while between that and the Sam I ended up
 getting this summer.
 FWIW the decision came down to Riv being able to confidently recommend
 what size to get, which Salsa couldn't. I was ordering remotely on a
 tight schedule so that ended up being the critical factor for me.
 Pretty sure the Salsa would have done the job almost as well for a lot
 less $.

 Jay

 On Feb 18, 6:28 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:







  Question: is there a truly budget minded bike that compares to a
  Rivendell? Something tig welded but lively and clearance for fat
  tires? It would be great if Grant could work with someone (Kona,
  Surly, Voodoo???) to come up with a made in Taiwan scorcher country
  bike.
  Tigged, powdercoated, traditional top tube (non-compact/expanded
  frame), tall headtube with threadless stem, spot on clearance for 57mm
  brakes, 430mm or so stays, $500. That's what the world needs.

  On 2/18/12, trek610 tspin...@gmail.com wrote:

   Very pretty build - I like way it has turned out.  Very tasteful selection
   in components.

   Any thoughts on the ride VS the LHT?

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  **
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[RBW] Re: Best sellers-worst sellers

2012-02-17 Thread Earl Grey
I am hoarding the last silver (painted) low normal XT derailers. They
are decent looking, work great, and can be had pretty cheap. I think
low normal is a great idea. I don't think you necessarily need to have
the whole fleet set up the same way, IF you use different shifters
with the different derailers. FWIW, my mtn tandem has a high normal
derailer, a flat bar, and rapid fire shifters, and it causes no
confusion with my low normal, friction-shifted bikes.

Gernot
Chiang Mai, Thailand

On Feb 17, 9:43 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2012-02-17 at 06:32 -0800, newenglandbike wrote:
  I have low-normal derailleurs on a couple of my bikes.     So much
  better than high-normal IMHO.

 Fine if:

 - you have them on all your bikes
 - you never have to change back

 If either of those two conditions is false, you are so screwed.
 Especially so since, as I understand it, they've been discontinued.
 That means at some point you *will* be forced to change back -- at which
 point, as I said, you are so screwed.  By screwed I mean confusion as to
 the correct means to upshift or downshift.

 I've been through all this before, with front derailleurs.  I used to
 use backwards-acting SunTour front derailleurs: SL, CompeV.  I changed
 back almost 20 years ago, and even to this day once or twice a year I go
 the wrong way and end up shifting to the big ring when I meant to go to
 the granny.

 If you try to mix within the fleet, you will suffer constant confusion
 and will blow shifts  by going in the wrong direction all the time.

 High normal works perfectly well.  Any improvement would be trivial at
 best, in my opinion, and couldn't begin to compensate for the mental
 confusion these ass-backwards rear derailleurs cause.

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[RBW] Re: Front rack ideas

2012-02-16 Thread Earl Grey
I second Doug's suggestion. I use a big Wald on a Nitto mini front for
commuting and grocery-shopping, and have had over 30lbs in there on a
Sam Hillborne. Not ideal, but it works. A Bombadil-riding buddy of
mine had a pass and stow and sold it. I think front racks that attach
at the drop outs tend to stiffen the fork too much. I'd go with the
basket, or maybe a Platrack if you can find one. The great thing about
the basket plus bungie net is that you can throw pretty much anything
in there, from loose groceries to a messenger bag when you get too
hot. The only thing it doesn't work for well is yoga mats, which are
too long. :)

Gernot


On Feb 16, 5:38 am, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 John:

 Congrats on getting an Atlantis for a milestone b'day.  Mine is coming
 up on 9 years old now  it's still my go-to bike for everything.

 On your commute, are you carrying weight on the back and not much up
 front?  On an 18% grade, that would be twitchy.  I'm not familiar with
 the specific rack'n'bag combination you mention for the front but I
 can attest that my Atlantis (58 cm w/40mm tires) handles better with
 weight up front rather than at the rear, especially on steep grades
 where speeds are low.

 An easy, economical experiment would be to zip tie a basket to your
 mini-rack and carry your commute gear there in a stuff sack or similar
 cheap bag, just to see how you liked the handling.

 dougP

 On Feb 15, 1:18 pm, johnb jbust...@gmail.com wrote:







  Last year I got a new Atlantis for my 50th birthday. Originally, I
  outfitted it with a mini front rack with a small trunk sack and a Tubus
  Cargo on the back end. I bike commute to work 2-3 days/week. My ride to and
  from work involves 1 or 2 — depending on the route — 18% grades (one way
  with a cemetery conveniently located at the top of the steepest part).
  Having no weight on the front leaves the front a bit jumpy. My thinking is
  that if I put my clothes etc in the front, it will be less jumpy.

  I have some serious lust in my heart for a Pass and Stow rack for both its
  touring capabilities (in theory at least) and its hauling capabilities.
  Anyone with PS/Swift Industries/Freight Baggage bag combination experience
  I would be *really *interested in your thoughts.  That said, any
  experiences good or bad with either the Pass and Stow or other bigger front
  rack/bag combinations would be greatly appreciated!

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[RBW] 70 km and 30 stream crossings

2012-02-13 Thread Earl Grey
Today Paul (on his Rivendell Sam) and I (on my still new Rawland
rSogn) decided to explore a road at the far point of our usual 50km
mixed surface SW loop here in Chiang Mai, Thailand. We met up at
8:15 at the local market, had some hot fresh soymilk and tiny Thai-
Chinese donuts (pa thong koh) from a street vendor, and headed south.
Where the long dirt section dumps you back on tarmac past the halfway
point, we have always gone left/downhill/back to town. Today we
decided to go right, which on our GPS map meandered along a stream for
perhaps 5km, and then seemed to dead-end. Sounded pretty, anyway.

We had stopped at our usual watering-place, a Hmong village along the
longest dirt section, where we were unable to buy liter bottles of
water. Instead, not for the first time, our bottles were refilled from
a big 20 liter jug, and payment was steadfastly refused, which gave me
no choice but to buy a kilo of local mandarin oranges (for the even
here ridiculous price of 30 cents) and stuff the bag in my handlebar
bag. We would be glad to have them later.

The new to us road took us over a ridge, and then dropped us along a
narrow paved section into the next valley. The road was being widened,
and the operator of an excavator blocking the entire road as it was
chipping away at the cliff somehow saw us coming over his shoulder,
suspended work and let us sneak by with a nod. No flagmen, here.
Dropping down into the valley we found a merry creek and a lush valley
floor, a welcome sight here at the height of the dry season. We began
climbing up the valley past a couple of little villages and well-
tended fields, and a few remaining forest giants above us on the lower
slopes. The paved road ended at a little wat (Buddhist temple), where
we took a brief rest and admired the plaster buddha statue under
construction.

Photos start here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6870180197/in/photostream

We continued along a dirt road into the remote upper reaches of the
valley. After a couple of short steep climbs the valley flattened out
again, and an occasional seepage of water from the slope to the left
cooled the air and turned a section of road into rutted near-mud. This
may not be a good ride in the wet season. As the road narrowed to a
motorcycle trail, the creek started meandering like crazy from one
side of the valley to the other, which meant that the trail, which ran
more or less straight, crossed and re-crossed the stream every couple
hundred meters on its way through orchards and tiny pastures. We
counted 15 crossings before we had to turn around and recross them
all. After making it through the first 3 or 4 unscathed (on 42mm
Marathon Extremes and 42mm Grand Bois, respectively) we got cocky and
really started to enjoy each crossing, Paul without fenders getting
quite wet in the process, a welcome cool-down in the 90+ F / 30+
Centigrade heat. Some of the banks were quite steep and clay-y, which
posed a bit of a challenge on the Hetres, especially since the water
was deep enough that it was hard to maintain momentum all the way
through the creek. So we didn't make it all the way up the far bank
every time, but we did make it back onto dry ground every time. We
started getting out our phone cameras to attempt some photography, but
without too much success. We shall return with a real camera (and a
dry bag, just in case).

Having tarried, we needed to haul @ss back to town, as I had a yoga
class to teach at 1 pm. Pushing hard climbing back over the ridge we
got smiles and thumbs-up from the concrete-pouring crew. Somewhere
along the way, running on empty, we made an emergency stop for a Coke,
and had our water bottles forcibly refilled by the grandmotherly
proprietor with water and ice. By the time we got back to the flat
road home I was pretty bushed since I hadn't been riding much aside
from my super short commute for the last couple of months, so Paul
pulled us all the way back home in a mad 15km sprint. I got home,
jumped in the shower, got on the scooter because my sit bones were
hurting to the point where even sitting on the scooter was painful and
riding a bike not to be contemplated. I got to the studio in time and
taught my class basically without sitting down (I couldn't). A couple
hours later the pain fortunately receded. I never had this happen
quite this bad, and that even though I had swapped my most comfy B-17
from my own commuter/kid-hauler Sam Hillborne to my rSogn the night
before. The sitbones  (and attached hamstring tendons) felt mostly
fine until the sprint, but during those last 30 minutes got
progressively worse, slowing me down even more than the jello in my
legs. Next time we'll take more time and add a few more stream
crossings, hopefully following the creek all the way to the head of
the valley.

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[RBW] Riv Email

2011-12-11 Thread Earl Grey
Sorry to hear the SimpleOne isn't selling so well. I like it, but
really can't justify another bike (I have 3 singles, 2 tandems).

Regarding rain pants, I really prefer them in black, anyway. I make a
point of buying bike jackets in bright colors, and I really think that
black pants with good reflectors are perfectly fine. And they stay
looking clean much better. Black pants and bright rain jacket seems
like the perfect combo to me...

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Fender Mounted Dyno Tail Light

2011-10-25 Thread Earl Grey
Kelly,

just get the Berthoud. It will last you for years, and will cost you
pennies per ride. Anything you might find at half the price will not
last half as long, or work as well. I think this is definitely a penny
wise pound foolish situation. You might try to find a used on on the
ibob group, though. I found an Acorn Boxy Rando that way and saved
quite a bit.

Gernot


On Oct 25, 7:02 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well I'm considering taking the rear rack off for a bit and mounting a fender 
 mounted light on the rear.    Is there a way to attach it to the underside of 
 the fender?  Do most just zip it to the fender stays and then frame up to the 
 light?   This is part of some goofy plan to clean up the rear of the bike 
 then go with a large berthold rando bag on the front with a marks rack.   (if 
 I can ever get over the cost of the dang bag)

 While I'm asking.. anyone know another rando bag that is really really tall 
 like bertholds at half the price.. :)

 Kelly

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[RBW] First Asian S24O?

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
Kip Paul Dave and I went out on our first S24O to celebrate Paul's
birthday: Two Sams, a Bomba and a Heron:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

Write-up to follow when my son stops crying.

Cheers,

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Pretty nice looking Hunqa-rack

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
I wish I had a bike with fork crown rack brazeons, but given how the
struts attach to the Mark's with pivots, I'd guess that a Mini mounted
to the fork crown hole would actually be stiffer/stronger, no? Why did
you chose the Mark's for a cantilever bike?

Gernot


On Oct 22, 11:03 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 That setup looks good, Garth.  

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[RBW] Re: Medium sized Wald basket with front light

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
Here is a photo of the setup you are looking for (but on a Mini, which
has the same platform as a Mark's, n? If you use the light mount
intended for the fork crown hole, it should be dandy.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6275708999/in/photostream/lightbox/

Gernot




On Oct 23, 12:35 pm, Scotty bongos...@verizon.net wrote:
 Thanks for the replies. You guy always seem to come through when I need
 help. Ordered my basket today.

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[RBW] Re: schwalbe mondial

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
The Kevlar ones have DoubleDefense, the wire ones RaceGuard puncture
protection. My guess is that DoubleDefense weighs more and negates the
folding bead weight advantage. Nice to see that the XR is back in a
different guise (I got the last two 50x700C from Riv), though the
Mondial doesn't come as wide and sounds like it has beefier puncture
protection, which in my book is a drawback.

Gernot I don't get flats [and when I do, I don't mind them] Huber


On Oct 23, 5:02 am, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Something about the weights doesn't seem right.  In their other tires,
 the folding (Aramid? Kevlar?) bead versions are usually quite a bit
 lighter than the wire bead.  This one seems to have comparable sizes
 weigh the same or close to it.  Of course, for that kind of dough I
 want all the tire I can get; maybe there's a lot of rubber there.

 dougP

 On Oct 22, 1:34 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:







  those look intriguing.  Golly, it won't be long before we are paying $100
  per tire for a top notch tire.  Good thing Schwalbes are good for many
  thousands of miles.  

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[RBW] Re: First Asian S24O?

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
Yes, she is a real cutie, but that's a Yuba Mundo, not a Dummy.

Gernot

On Oct 24, 9:52 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Four Rivs, six top tubes! I like the photo of the little girl with her bike
 at the tail end of the Big Dummy.









 On Mon, Oct 24, 2011 at 4:43 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
  Kip Paul Dave and I went out on our first S24O to celebrate Paul's
  birthday: Two Sams, a Bomba and a Heron:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/

  Write-up to follow when my son stops crying.

  Cheers,

  Gernot

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2009 Bombadil Frame and Fork, 64cm, old school parallel top tubes

2011-10-24 Thread Earl Grey
I call my buddy's parallel TT Bomba, and my single TT Sam,
'superlights'.

Gernot

On Oct 21, 4:25 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Rather than 'old school' I prefer to call my parallelotube Bomba the
 'ultralight' model.  :)

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[RBW] Handlebar bag surprise

2011-10-02 Thread Earl Grey
Before our weekly family ride I opened my handlebar bag to put my 1
year old son's rain poncho inside, and found this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/6203117089/in/photostream

At first I thought it was one of those fat ponytail bands, and was
wondering how it got there, when I saw a head-shaped thing that turned
out to be a head.

The little guy must have climbed up the wheel, spokes, fork head tube,
etc. I don't know how a snake can climb a spoke...but there he was.
After a gingerly relocation of the shower cap plus contents to the
backyard we were on our way.

Cheers,

Gernot

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bag surprise

2011-10-02 Thread Earl Grey
Yeah, but this snake was a beauty! :)

Gernot

On Oct 2, 7:49 pm, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think I'd rather find a chocolate bar, or a ten dollar bill I had
 forgotten about!

 michael

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[RBW] Re: Jack Browns - Tires For The Future?

2011-10-02 Thread Earl Grey
Hear, hear, that is why my JB Greens have been replaced with 42mm
Kenda Kwickroller E-Z Rides. Horrific name, but a good tire that
doesn't just allow dirt road exploration, but single track
exploration!

Gernot


On Sep 30, 9:36 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 The beauty of the JB's is that if you spot some dirt road going somewhere
 new, you can  take a chance and see where it goes. To me, that's the best
 thing about riding fat road tires. Last night I was riding in a new area
 here in northern LA and ended up taking three different dirt roads, that all
 ended too quickly, and even some singletrack but it was still worth it just
 to be out on the bike exploring

 ~mike

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[RBW] Re: Paris-Brest-Paris: The Movie

2011-10-02 Thread Earl Grey
Hey,

would love to see this, but also blocked in Thailand. Where is the
downloadable version?

Thanks!

Gernot

On Sep 30, 6:09 am, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 I'm working on this. There will be a downloadable version of the file 
 available tomorrow.

 –Eric

 On Sep 29, 2011, at 12:02 PM, Stephen S elphk...@gmail.com wrote:







  Which country are you in? Usually I see this when the audio is detected and 
  blocked. I just checked and I see the video still here in the US (Northern 
  California)

  Stephen
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[RBW] Re: Handlebar bag surprise

2011-10-02 Thread Earl Grey
It was a Golden Tree Snake (we live in Thailand). Just found out that
it belongs to the flying snake genus (Chrysopelea):

http://siamfoundation.org/snakes-thailand/?Snake_Archive:Flying_Snakes:Golden_Tree_Snake

That explains how it got into the handlebar bag. No spoke climbing
needed. :)

Gernot


On Oct 3, 3:17 am, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 Is that a California kingsnake?  

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[RBW] Re: Fitting on the Sam Hillborne

2011-09-24 Thread Earl Grey
You should be fine. I have an 83 PBH and ride a 56cm Sam with 40mm
slicks or 42mm semi knobbies, even on rough single track. Plenty of
crashes and dismounts, and no damage to the tender bits (yet).

The advantage is that I can get drop bars high enough to mount a stem-
mounted child seat (Bobike mini).

Cheers,

Gernot not a crotch worrier Huber

On Sep 24, 9:32 pm, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a PBH of 84.5 and the 56cm Hillborne fits me perfect.  MAYBE the top
 tup is a little long and I should've purchased a shorter stem. (currently
 use a 9cm stem with 46cm noodles).
 I had been riding it with 37mm Panaracer Pasela's but a few months ago
 switch to Schwalbe Dureme 50's to see if they would fit.  Naturally, I had
 to lose the fenders, but indeed they do fit.  The huge tires brought the top
 tube up very very close, but I can still straddle the bike with just a bit
 of room.  And, I wear very low shoes like, vans or cons.
 So...
 with a PBH of 84 you should totally fine as long as you don't go bigger than
 40mm tires.

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[RBW] Re: New vs original grid grey fabric and leather trimmings...

2011-09-20 Thread Earl Grey
Kinda ironic that the fabric specifically designed for trucks (which
are presumably longer/wider than 36) only comes in the narrower
width. I like the look of the new leather and new fabric, even though
it won't match my Shopsack L.

Acorn also seems to be varying their shade of beige occasionally,
presumably because of what is available. It's just life. And don't
forget, bags fade, so a new one of identical fabric might not really
match the one you've had on your bike for a year, anyway.

Gernot


On Sep 20, 10:02 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 The bagmatching blues are inevitable when you're dealing with small
 production runs of fabric, leather, finishes...and those are at the
 heart of all of our bags. The grey grid fabric is made for truck
 tarpalins, and truckers don't care. They're just looking forward to
 the weekends. The same fabric happens to be super for our bike bags,
 and the maker makes a few runs of it a year---for high volume truck
 tarp use. I don't want to be the guy who cries out for a certain
 visibility-of-grid, or insists on them shipping the new stuff back at
 their expense (the Scots would tell me, in thick brogue, go to bloody
 he**!), and then wreck what started slow but has become a decent
 business relationship.

 I remember a batch of Carradice bags we got many years ago. That
 fabric stunk to high heaven. Carradice admitted it smelled a bit
 dodgy---a term I'd never heard before, but I can't even see a Dodge
 these days without thinking about it. They suggested we air them out
 for a day before filling orders. Tried that, but the stuff was not
 going away. Maybe it took a few weeks.

 A less visi-grid is less of a problem than that. BUT I getcha and
 agree. Same boat, same page, and I imagine I'll get used to it, too.
 It lacks the classy gangster-Yankee look we all recognize, but hey,
 the new leather looks kinda nice, don't it?

 Ultimately the grey grid fab will likely go away. It comes too narrow
 (36-in, compared to 60-in), and there's more waste.

 One thing, though. I bet the new look is the result of a thicker, even
 more superbly waterprooof coating. Could be that over time, those
 fine white lines will resurface.
 G

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[RBW] Re: Berthold Fender Installation- It went so smooth.. till it didn't.. sheesh

2011-09-18 Thread Earl Grey
Yep. Your bike is dirty, and your garage is a real mess. ;)

Love the look of the Berthoud flap and hardware.

Gernot I don't see no dirt, time for new glasses? Huber

On Sep 17, 6:42 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 Photos here.. ya bike is dirty

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/tksleeper/sets/72157627561999537/

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Berthold Fender Installation- It went so smooth.. till it didn't.. sheesh

2011-09-18 Thread Earl Grey
 Mark.  Remove.  Drill.  Reinstall.  Mark the next.

That sums it up. I don't find it tedious, but it ain't fast. Think of
it as meditation and you'll be all right. And the Winter 2011 BQ
article *is* excellent. I found the bit on how to massage the fender
line especially helpful (bend the fender edges apart to decrease
fender radius, push edges together to increase radius).

I have had very little trouble with 2.5 VO alu fender installations
(installed on two bikes, then moved one set to a third bike), but all
three bikes had fender mounts on the brake bridge facing the hub. On
the first one I didn't quite drill the bolt hole in the center and had
to ovalize slightly. Take the BQ advice, use a punch or nail to mark
the spot, start drilling with a small bit (2-3mm) and work your way up
to 5mm. Next time I will drill the 3mm hole from the inside of the
fender, but drill the final 5mm hole from the outside. That way you
minimize the chance of slipping for the initial hole, but get the burr
from the big hole on the inside of the fender where it doesn't show.

Gernot



On Sep 17, 5:27 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2011-09-16 at 15:07 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
  Kelly, thank you, thank you, thank you for the honesty of your post.
   As both an amateur mechanic and amateur woodworker I have been
  repeatedly snookered by expert instructions that lulled me into
  thinking something would be straightforward and doable, only to be
  reduced to speaking anglo-saxon.  Last night I installed a pair of the
  tektro canti brakes and discoverd that the instructions failed to
  mention that only a mutant with four hands would find this straight
  forward.

  I have bikes with plastic, aluminum, and steel fenders but I wouldn't
  ever again install fenders without both rereading the instructions and
  remembering that it will be a PIA.

 Actually, installing Honjo fenders is pretty straightforward - there's
 nothing really 'clever' or 'complex' about it - but it's slow and can't
 be hurried.  Reading the instructions about 20 times for a week or two
 ahead of time, and working on visualizing what goes on helps.
 Understanding on a deep-down level that it simply cannot be hurried or
 sped up helps the most.  

 One. Step. At. A. Time. First install.  Mark.  Remove.  Drill.
 Reinstall.  Mark the next.  Remove.  Drill.  Reinstall.  Mark.  Remove.
 Drill.  Reinstall.  Breathe.  

 Once you get your mind wrapped around the pace - the process as a whole,
 but especially the pace - it's not really much of a pain in the a$$.  At
 least, not until your hand cramps and you drop the parts to the draw
 bolt in the grass and can't find them again.  It helps a lot to spread
 some cloth under where you're working, because your hand is almost
 certainly going to cramp and you almost certainly are going to
 drop /something/.

 The instructions on the VO and Jitensha web sites are pretty good.  So,
 too, are the articles published in BQ.

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[RBW] Re: Best/Favorite/Most Radical Cantilever Brakes

2011-09-17 Thread Earl Grey
I really like the CR720s. Got em on two bikes now, and will buy more.

Have early 90s Campy high-profile Touring cantis as well (http://
ruedatropical.com/2009/06/rhygin-metax-randonneur/). Love them, but
the old smooth brake post cantis are harder to adjust, if that matters
to you. And they are very hard to find and expensive now. Late 80s XT
high profile cantis are also nice, but have the same more fiddly
adjustability. I just bought some smooth-post brake pads with
replaceable pads to reduce the need for adjustment on the old brakes.

Tried the current med profile Shimanos (BRR550). Didn't like them as
much as the CR720s, and more expensive.

Haven't tried Pauls, and probably never will. CNC machining just seems
like the wrong way to do bike parts (Not as strong as forging, and
thus have to be chunkier).

Cheers,

Gernot


On Sep 17, 3:38 am, Daniel datadatadan...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have me a pair of them newfangled XT low profile cantis on a bike
 and am doggone dis'pointed in them.

 The time has come for me to take the bull by the horns and find me
 some replacements.

 I have experience with the Tektro CR720s and am generally pleased with
 them. If I decide to drop more coinage, is there another, better high
 profile canti. Certainly everything Paul is top shelf and the Bruce
 Gordon cantis are the most beautiful I've ever seen.

 Should I just keep it simple and go the the Tektro or is there any
 advantage going with something else?

 Any/all opinions are much uh-preciated.

 Daniel

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Build + Reaction

2011-09-03 Thread Earl Grey
Congrats. Looks lovely. I really like the new green. If you need to go
cheap on the seatpost, the VO one is very nice. I have misgivings
about a lot of VO products, but none about the seatpost.

Gernot


On Sep 2, 10:31 pm, Aaron Schmidt librar...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, I'll heap the usual accolades on my SH. I'm enjoying it!

 Here are some pics. (You'll notice I hadn't put corks in the bar ends
 yet.)

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/aaronschmidt/sets/72157627576754086/with...

 It is replacing a LHT and I'm really pleased that, with my Thumbies
 set up the way they are, all it'll take to put a new stem/drop bar on
 is a quick switch of brake cables/housing. Probably a 10 minute job.
 Once I can find some gum/silver Cane Creeks (hey, anyone have some to
 sell me?) I'll get that option going.

 In case you're curious, it weighs 29 pounds as built. Whether it is
 the missing few pounds, the design, or nicer tubes, it feels more
 sprightly than the LHT.

 The E3 Triple is fantastic and the SONdeluxe is powering it just
 fine.

 I had my bars set way high at first and the bike felt extremely
 twitchy. It actually felt more stable riding with no hands! I lowered
 the bars about an inch and the problem was totally resolved.

 I've got a Loyal Designs bag on order. Yay. Besides this, I need to
 get a setback seat post. The narrowing of the Brooks rails prevents me
 from an ideal position.

 Super pleased with my first Riv!

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

2011-08-29 Thread Earl Grey
Thanks for that explanation, William,

that was enlightening, and jives with my experience. The way my non-
engineer's brain makes sense of this is this:

The main brake cable moves up when you engage the brake. For a high
profile canti to engage you also mostly need to pull up on the
straddle wire, and inward a little. On a low profile canti, you mostly
have to pull *in* on the straddle cable, while pulling up does very
little good. So on a low profile canti the straddle cable has to
change the direction of force from the main brake cable, and yes,
that's easy to get wrong. On a high profile canti, the straddle cable
serves merely as an extension of the brake cable transferring the
brake force to both arms. It doesn't have to change the direction of
the force, and is thus relatively immune to geometry. (I am sure this
explanation won't satisfy an engineer, but it works for me) :)

Gernot

On Aug 30, 12:23 am, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Sheldon (RIP) did a great job of laying out the geometry factors, but didn't
 really get to the punchline.  

 The punchline, in my opinion is that the mechanical advantage of high
 profile cantilevers is almost constant regardless of straddle cable length.
  Brakes like Tektro CR720s and old Mafacs and similar, has a particular
 mechanical advantage.  You can adjust that a tiny bit, like a few percent,
 by raising or lowering the straddle wire hanger, but you can't make a major
 change, no matter where you put it.  The upshot is, if you like how those
 brakes feel with your lever, then be happy, because there is almost nothing
 you can do to mess it up.  If you don't like how they feel (probably because
 of too little mechanical advantage), then you can tinker all day long with
 straddle position, and it really won't do much.  A different lever that
 changes mechanical advantage might make a difference.  A different brake pad
 compound that doesn't need as much force to grab might make a difference,
 but high profile cantilevers are not very tuneable.  You'll see some folks
 running their straddle right above the fender, and others several inches
 higher.  Those two setups won't feel a lot different, all else being equal.
  The Riv-ish upside to this is that if you use high profile cantis with a
 lever that works, you can raise the straddle high to clear your rack,
 fender, and fat tire, and still get similar braking.  

 Low profile cantilevers are super tuneable, but that give you more
 opportunity to get it wrong.  If you are forced to move the straddle to
 clear a fender or rack, you may be disappointed at the major effect that had
 on braking performance..  

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[RBW] Re: Carrying yoga mat on your Rivendell?

2011-08-28 Thread Earl Grey
I carry my super heavy Manduka, or up to 3 regular mats (for teaching
privates) lengthwise on my Tubus Vega rear rack with one of those flat
multi-strand bungees going from near one drop out to the other. With a
long heavy mat it's important to place some of the strands close to
the saddle so the mat can't cantilever itself off the rack. Lengthwise
carrying helps with lane splitting... :)

Cheers,

Gernot


On Aug 28, 10:01 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 Brett if you're not trying to be snarky or derisivw then I apologize but I
 don't think that tone is necessary for this thread.

 It's a legitimate question, I think.
 -sv
 On Aug 28, 2011 10:55 AM, Brett Lindenbach brett.lindenb...@gmail.com
 wrote: Great topic: how do I attach my $100 yoga mat to my $3000 bike?

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[RBW] Re: It doesn't look bad without fenders, no?

2011-08-28 Thread Earl Grey
It's called cold setting. :) Keep the bolt through the crown locked in
place, undo the P-clamps, and then massage the rack into the right
shape with your bare manly hands. If you are gentle, it should be
fine. They actually bend with surprisingly little force. I just did it
to my Nitto M-12 to fit on my new rSogn, which has ridiculous tire
clearance and thus more than the usual distance between canti-brake
brazeons and fork-crown hole.

Gernot


On Aug 27, 5:48 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 The struts are welded to the top, and they are tubular stainless
 steel: how can I bend them without either breaking them off or
 crimping them?









 On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 8:20 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
  I am glad so many people like your bike as is, Patrick, so I don't
  have to feel so bad saying this: :)

  I like it too, but since you have the front rack on P-clamps, why not
  move them lower and bend the rack stays a bit so you can get the rack
  level? I don't mind the look of bikes without fenders (see my Sam:
 http://tinyurl.com/3epfv47;though it has been sporting fenders for
  the last 16 months or so) but a largish frame with skinny 26 tires
  would to my mind look better with fenders, just because it makes the
  wheels look more in proportion with the frame. Of course I am not
  advocating putting on fenders just for aesthetic reasons. If it don't
  rain where you ride, and no one waters the road, neither, why bother?

  Gernot

  On Aug 26, 8:55 am, Johnny Alien johnnyal...@verizon.net wrote:
  I'm actually starting to like fenderless bikes.  I took the fenders off my
  Bleriot recently and really like the way it looks.  Your bike looks
  fantastic.

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 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

2011-08-28 Thread Earl Grey
Agreed, it is a very nice-looking hanger, and most importantly for me,
it uses a 10mm box wrench and a 5mm? Allen key to adjust. How many of
you carry 2 separate 9 or 10mm box wrenches, which most straddle cable
hangers from the last 70 years require? And how often does one or the
other of those box wrenches slip? holding the hanger in place with an
Allen key is much more secure as you tighten the 10mm nut.

But what is the durned Philips head screw for? What Montclair BobbyB
said? I still think it's a holder for the main brake cable...

Gernot


On Aug 28, 11:17 am, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 The argument that the Tektro hanger is the best...is a funny argument
 at some level, because any decent  one from the pas 70 years is 98
 percent as good as any other, including this. The Tektro *wins*--my
 opinion--the final 2 unimportant percent, because if for any reason
 (can think of two offhand) your cantilevers aren't opening evenly,
 then the set-screws allow you to shift the hanger off-center and keep
 it there to compensate. It is a nice-looking hanger, in any case.

 Tektro is a neat company. They don't wait, they don't copy, they know
 brakes and they  innovate. They made the long-reach sidepulls (Silver
 and R556) when Shimano wouldn't even respond to the inquiry, and
 neither did Dia-Compe. Tektro listened, understood, and DID it---and
 figured out the wide-opening q/r that we requested.

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[RBW] Question about the World's Best straddle wire hanger (Tektro CR720)

2011-08-26 Thread Earl Grey
Just installed my second pair of these lovely bargains from Riv, and
am once again flumoxed by the seemingly superfluous fat philips-headed
screw on the straddle wire hanger.

The two tiny allen headed screws are to arrest straddle wire movement,
okay. Why do you need the third screw? I just looked at the Tektro
site (http://tinyurl.com/4xd38ta) and it seems they are using the fat
philips screw as a resting place for the loose end of the main brake
cable. Is that its one and only intended purpose? Seems like a strange
raison d'etre for a screw, but I guess it works. Any other thoughts on
what it's for?

Cheers,

Gernot

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