[RBW] Re: Drops vs albatross. Easy to swap or do I need two bikes?

[Erik Wright]

Answering on the practical side (easily swapping handlebars) rather than 
the “should I own two bikes” side of things, Russ from Path Less Pedaled 
did a video a while back on optimizing 1 bike for easy cockpit swaps. 
Basically using a little Jagwire cable splitting doodad so the cables and 
housing can mostly stay in place when swapping bars. It makes more sense if 
your bike has full-length housing, but there may still be some nuggets in 
there that are helpful.

https://youtu.be/qj0qOyw_Es8?si=wKDJKxwHhdtKdBg0

Could be a good in-between option while you’re building up your second bike 
;)

Erik, Philly
On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 2:23:08 AM UTC-4 Michael wrote:

> Looking for a single bike for casual rides on bike paths/paved/gravel/dirt 
> roads with the occasional 100 mile ride thrown in. Will suggest the Sam 
> Hillborne, which I'm leaning towards. I assumed I would build it with drops 
> for the long rides but I recently fell in love with albatross bars for 
> upright lazy bike path rides. 
> Is there a way to quickly/easily swap handlebars or are two bikes 
> inevitable? 
> Would a Sam with drops and an appaloosa or atlantis w/ albatross be a good 
> combo or is that too much overlap? 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks B17 repair

[Erik Wright]

Simon is the guy. I believe that's where Riv sends their saddles for 
repair, or at least they've shouted him out a couple times in the 
Blug/Blahg. One of his 2 shops is my LBS- it's in the same building that I 
have a pottery studio. One time I wheeled my bike into his shop for some 
reason and he noticed I was missing a rivet in my Selle Anatomica (how the 
heck did it just pop out??) and he hammered one in right then.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 8:20:48 PM UTC-4 dougP wrote:

> After years of good service, my Brooks B17 blew out the leather at the 
> nose. Is there a North American source for repair? Any idea what this costs?
>
> Doug Peterson
>

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[RBW] Re: Blatant shoutout for Road Runner Bags

[Erik Wright]

I've been buying from Road Runner since 2015. I have a medium rolltop 
backpack, a couple tool rolls, a Jumbo Jammer for bikepacking, a Lil' Guy 
fanny pack, and maybe one more. Whenever I use my rolltop backpack (~3-4 
days a week) I think "damn, this thing is going to last my entire life." I 
love the Jumbo Jammer. I use my Lil Guy almost daily for 6 years now. The 
company's run by great people and I wholeheartedly recommend their bags.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, December 1, 2022 at 9:32:44 PM UTC-5 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:

> Own a wide selection of Road Runner bags and they have been my go to for 
> the last 5 years for sure.  Burrito bags, tool rolls, backpacks.  All great 
> stuff!
>
> Don't miss the Comrad lightweight packable backpack.  I bike everywhere 
> and travel everywhere with that packable bag.  Folds up and can fit into a 
> bottle cage when not needed.
>
> Happy to hear the feedback on their camera strap as I was eyeballing it 
> and currently roll with a Fuji X-T1.
>
> On Thursday, December 1, 2022 at 7:48:18 PM UTC-6 Esteban wrote:
>
>> I'll come out of infrequently lurking to second the quality of LA-based 
>> Road Runner bags. I actually have their camera strap for my Fuji X-T2. 
>> Excellent - simple, easily adjusted to fit snug to the body (I wear it in 
>> the front). Great for smaller film cameras to keep it on Riv theme. Will 
>> make my "tried and liked" list for 2022 I usually post on IG... maybe even 
>> Best Material Good of the Year!
>>
>> On Thursday, December 1, 2022 at 5:30:49 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Sorry the pics are so 'inside on a rainy day' lame. I need to get 
>>> outside tomorrow and take better ones. It was cold! And rainy! 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 1, 2022 at 1:59:39 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 I've bought and sold a few of these and really like them a lot..made in 
 Los Angeles, CA. USA! 

 This my new Burrito Bag (the small one) in turmeric (looks gold) and 
 pink on my dark blue Bike Friday. I think it would look great on a Mermaid 
 Platypus, Appaloosa or Gus. Road Runner Bags, they're good! 

 Joe Bernard 

>>>

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[RBW] FS: Baggins handlebar bag

[Erik Wright]

Howdy,

Selling this Baggins bag (Photos 
). I can probably shove it in 
a medium flat rate box, so let's say $65 shipped.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Roaduno substitute for a while...

[Erik Wright]

Oh man, and that lavender color is amazing. Here's a link 

 
for anyone interested. Can't wait to see it built up, Bill!

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, September 15, 2022 at 1:14:16 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> I had been searching for quite a while for a single speed that enabled 
> some derailer-less gear flexibility.  On one hand I searched for a 58cm 
> Quickbeam or SimpleONE.  On the other hand I was/am waiting on the 
> RoadUNO.  I was/am a huge fan of Rivendells rear dropouts with the angle 
> that allows a significant gear change while maintaining brake adjustment.  
>
> In an absolutely perfect world, my Size Large singlespeed would also have 
> been 650B (for fat tires and no TCO).  While I'm sitting here in 
> fantasy-land, I also would have waved my magic wand to have the bike be 
> belt-compatible, and would allow brakes, but have a discreet way to NOT run 
> brakes.  
>
> Over the last 18 months or so, I've been working with placeholders for 
> these things.  I bought a Crust Michigan Man right when they were released 
> and set it up as a strictly 1-speed fixie in my office in Wayne County, 
> Michigan.  Will at Riv also has a Michigan Man.  I also managed to acquire 
> a 58cm Quickbeam, and that is now in my garage as a 8-speed single speed.  
> I slowly acquired some of the parts for a 650B custom, including a pair of 
> Rivendell dropouts.  I even had preliminary conversations with a local 
> builder, and have a tentative spot on his enormous waiting list.  
>
> Then, totally by surprise, a new contender appeared.  Crust released a new 
> variant of their single speed Lightning Bolt.  It's 650B, with clearance 
> for 48mm tires and contemporary Randonneur geometry.  It's belt-compatible 
> and has removable cantilever posts and cable guides.  It's almost exactly 
> what my custom would have been except for the Riv-style ends.  
>
> It's 2022, and the lesson we've all learned is that if the thing you want 
> is available, you buy it, because it may never be available again.  So, I 
> went ahead and bought it, and the frame should arrive today.  I'm pretty 
> excited.  
>
> Whether or not my new Crust will get replaced by a RoadUNO next year 
> remains to be seen.  Will's email updates (plus simple geometry) make it 
> pretty clear to me that the RoadUNO will not have Riv ends.  It'll have 
> some other svelte track ends, so easy gear changes with a rear brake won't 
> be part of the feature list, it seems.  I'm still paying very close 
> attention, but the itch is getting scratched today.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: New 650b Rims from Crust

[Erik Wright]

I'm looking at getting a set of these wheels in 700c for my Sam Hillborne, 
but they're 130mm spacing without the ability to add spacers and re-dish 
the wheel. The Hillborne's spacing is 135mm.

I've put 130mm wheels in the Hillborne before and just tightened down the 
QR, but only for a short period of time. Any downsides to this as a long 
term solution with this wheelset? I use friction shifting, so I don't have 
to worry much about slight derailleur alignment issues.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 3:06:05 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Buy the rims and have a good wheelbuilder build them up for you!  I've got 
> a Crust bike, and I'm thinking I'll buy some 700c rims and rebuild my 
> wheelset.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, July 14, 2022 at 11:48:13 AM UTC-7 Slin wrote:
>
>> BTW, I just saw Russ from Path Less Pedaled gave the wheels a quick 
>> positive review when he tried them on the Crust Lightning Bolt.
>>
>> He basically says they're affordable, light-ish, and it's nice to have 
>> another rim-brake, tubeless compatible option out there.
>>
>> https://youtu.be/Q2vU_p1bNZg?t=90
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 12, 2022 at 12:23:49 PM UTC-7 Slin wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all for sharing your experiences. I'm still leaning towards 
>>> getting a set to use tubeless, but now I'll know to expect to have to true 
>>> them up early.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:02:56 PM UTC-7 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I’ve been using the 700c version of these for a few months on several 
 different bikes. The rear did go out of true not too long after I got 
 them. 
 I was as kind of surprised, but trued them up and no problems since. I 
 liked the price point too with the front hub. I was able to set them up 
 tubeless with no problems either. 
 Lance

 On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:05:43 PM UTC-6 leva...@gmail.com wrote:

> You are correct, Drew.  The rh is no louder than a White rh, but much 
> louder than a 105 or Deore rh.  It is what it is.  What I failed to 
> mention 
> was how nice the dynamo front hub is at this price point I like the 
> wheelset a bunch.
>
> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 3:04:36 PM UTC-6 Drew Henson wrote:
>
>> I have a pair on a fairly new crust romanceur, and i like them quite 
>> a bit. rear hub is no louder than a white industry hub i have on another 
>> bike. I really like the SP generator hub, i think it's a good value. 
>>
>> I am curious if the spoke tensioning holds up. I probably have about 
>> 100 miles on them. 
>>
>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 11:07:36 AM UTC-7 leva...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I own a set of the Crust wheels on my Canti Lightning bolt, and 
>>> they’re just fine, although the rear hub is loud.  Mine are the 650b 
>>> size, 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 11:11:41 AM UTC-6 Nikko in Oakland 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have a pair of the 700c complete wheelsets and I probably put 
 them through more rough stuff than they were intended to be on. 

 I've ridden them for about 500-600 miles, about 40% gravel (nothing 
 super rough) and 60% road in the Oakland/Berkeley Hills. I ride my 
 bikes 
 kind of hard, with a lot of out of the saddle, high torque efforts. 
 I'm 
 never riding any trails that I'd be more comfortable on a front 
 suspension 
 bike on. The wheels were machine built, so they went out of true 
 rather 
 quickly which was expected. At ~200 miles, I gave them a little touch 
 true 
 to keep them laterally true. But shortly after (~70 miles later), they 
 went 
 out of true again, and I attributed this to my lack of experience 
 truing 
 wheels, it being machine-built wheel, how light the rim is, and/or how 
 hard 
 i'm pushing them. 

 An acquaintance mentioned that he had to true his wheelset about 5 
 times before they stayed true. I'm not super well equipped to true 
 wheels 
 appropriately, so this would have gotten expensive for me to get a 
 shop to 
 do this regularly, so I just got them detensioned/retensioned by a 
 trusted 
 wheel builder. The wheel builder mentioned that the rear hub is a bit 
 crunchy already and he suggested I replace the bearings and clean out 
 the 
 internals to get 'em smooth again. I wasn't thrilled to hear that, but 
 it's 
 all good. 

 Anyways, the wheels are light and really responsive, I like how 
 quickly they spin up, and they're priced really well. But since I'm 
 not a 
 wheelbuilder-type, I think this is the last machine-built wheelset I 
 ever 
 buy. The wheels were pretty, light, and cheap-ish. But as 

[RBW] Re: Which swept back bars for a Hillborne?

[Erik Wright]

IMO it's hard to beat the look and feel of the Albatross. I've set up my 
Sam with something like 6-7 different bars at this point; started with the 
Albatross and finally came back around to that setup a few months back. It 
seems like most newer bars that Riv makes come back extra far to complement 
the longer reach of their newer models. Since the Albatross predates those 
bikes I think they strike a nice balance when coming from drops. I think 
something like +2cm on a stem will keep the fit/feel from popping you too 
upright if you're used to Noodles. I have an 11cm stem and have considered 
a 12, but since it's pretty fine as-is I haven't bothered with the swap.

Shifter choice might also play into your decision. I have Microshift 
thumbies flipped inboard which sorta takes away the "in between" hand 
position because it clogs up the bars a bit. This is less of an issue on a 
bar like Chocos because they have additional sweep. If you run bar ends, 
you get that extra 2ish cm of sweep from the bar end pods and also get to 
keep the "in between" position. I've been thinking about moving to stem 
shifters or moving the thumbies up next to the stem in the forward-most 
hand position.

Erik, Philly

On Monday, February 14, 2022 at 11:11:08 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:

> You will want a longer stem to move to sweptback.  How much longer depends 
> on which bars you choose. Unless you want to move to albastache in which 
> case you can keep everything your noodles have. I like to go with a shorter 
> stem when moving from drops to albastache.  For conventional sweptback my 
> suggestion for first sweptback from drops is choco or losco.  But it's 
> really a preference thing and hinges on how upright you want to be.
>
> On Monday, February 14, 2022 at 10:39:36 AM UTC-5 rcr...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> I've got a Hillborne which I've always used with noodle bars, but want to 
>> convert it to upright swept back bars.  Anybody else made a similar 
>> conversion, and which bars did you get?  Should I get a new stem?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: hanging bikes on the wall

[Erik Wright]

Hey Minh,

The first two things that jumped to mind are a pulley system like this 

 (looks 
a little too storage-y for indoor hanging imo) or a product like Da Hanger 
. The 
latter is my preferred indoor storage method- it has a tidy look, and 
pulling the wheels to the wall keeps the bike from protruding out too far.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 4:38:37 PM UTC-5 Minh wrote:

> hi all, hope everyone is adjusting to winter, at least for us in the 
> northeast! 
> as its getting colder, i'm dealing with some bike maint. and one of them 
> is solving the bike storage for my lone QB.  i've settled on hanging on the 
> wall, but next challenge, how do people lift the bike up high enough?  
> currently i can only get it up to about chest high, any tricks to get 
> higher?  step ladder? 
>
> this is inside our apt, so i can't ropes over the rafters.   
>
> would appreciate any other ideas people have, only constraint is that i'd 
> like to get it off the floor, and it needs to hang parallel to the wall--so 
> no hanging by front wheel.  thanks for any ideas!
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone run 650b on a Sam Hillborne?

[Erik Wright]

I used the Tektro RL520 <https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=71> when I 
had drop bars on there. I have no complaints about the braking or lever 
feel or anything like that. I was always curious about the Dia-Compe 287 
because it seems to be the list's consensus on best v-brake drop bar lever, 
but never took the plunge.

Erik, Philly

On Tuesday, November 23, 2021 at 9:00:13 PM UTC-5 maxcr wrote:

>
> Hey Erick,
> What brake levers do you use to run motolites on a dropbar?
> Thanks
> Max
> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 11:30:51 AM UTC-4 Erik Wright wrote:
>
>> I have a 2014-ish sidepull Sam Hillborne that I picked up off this list 
>> in spring 2018. The bike came to me with Paul Racers and I rode tires as 
>> big as 700x44. After seeing Ultraromance's 650b conversion on his Sam H, I 
>> thought I'd give that configuration a go (because there's just something 
>> about fat knobby tires on a road bike that get's me goin').
>>
>> In early 2019 I had a local framebuilder add canti posts at 650b 
>> placement for about $150. Nervous about committing to 650b on this bike 
>> because of the reasons Bill and others mention (bb drop, pedal strike, 
>> etc), I purchased Paul Motolites so I could swap between 700c and 650b 
>> if/when needed. I managed to squeeze in 27.5x2.1" Schwalbe Thunderburts 
>> with *very* little clearance, but went on a few bikepacking trips with 
>> this setup. I've since added a Crust Evasion to my lineup (which also has 
>> two wheelsets, *facepalm*) and have made my Sam H a dedicated 700c bike... 
>> for now.
>>
>> I remember Blahgs from 1-2 years back where Roman @ Riv did the same 
>> thing with his Sam H. One Blahg showed him dimpling his chainstays so he 
>> could more easily squeeze a 2.1" tire in there. To this day I'm still 
>> waiting for a feature of that bike on a Blahg or a newsletter, but it looks 
>> like that day may never come.
>>
>> Regarding pedal strike- yeah, there was some, but I have a pretty high 
>> tolerance for it so didn't really notice a huge difference. The trails 
>> around here are pretty rocky and rooty so if I'm riding my SamH on trails, 
>> there's going to be pedal strike no matter what I do. The other thing 
>> people often ask is about mechanical advantage with the Motolites. I mean, 
>> sure, there's probably better stopping power with 650b wheels/pad 
>> placement, but my bike stops just fine with the pads adjusted for 700c.
>>
>> Overall the 650b conversion was a fun project and adds to my ability to 
>> tinker with that bike- BUT, not night & day to the point where I'd 
>> wholeheartedly recommend.
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 10:52:13 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Generally speaking, switching from 700c to 650B on any 
>>> cantilever-equipped bike is considered a very bad idea, with two exceptions:
>>> 1. you have a poorly placed set of canti-posts so that they manage to 
>>> work OK
>>> 2. you have a frame builder remove and attach your canti posts in the 
>>> right place for 650B
>>>
>>> If your canti posts are in the right place for 700c, you need to run 
>>> your brake pads a full 19mm lower to hit 650B rims.  That's practically 
>>> even with the pivot itself and the leverage just doesn't work well at all
>>>
>>> Generally speaking, switch from 700c to 650B on any 700c bike with large 
>>> BB drop is considered a risky maneuver, with two exceptions:
>>> 1. you don't mind a really low BB and pedal strike doesn't concern you
>>> 2. you are going to MUCH wider 650B tires, so that the resulting BB 
>>> height may be close
>>>
>>> On disc-brake bikes, swapping from 700xTHIC to 650xTHICCC is pretty 
>>> common.  I've got a few bikes in my stable that are intended for that kind 
>>> of flexibility.  My cantilever-Sam is not one of those bikes.  700x38 + 
>>> fenders and it's perfect.  For beefier tires, I grab one of my machines 
>>> that has beefier tires  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 2, 2021 at 10:08:08 AM UTC-7 brenton...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi all, I have a Sam Hillborne without canti posts. I was considering 
>>>> trying 650b hoops to get some even beefier tires on the bike. Has anyone 
>>>> seen it done? Pics?
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: LF Single Speed Frame

[Erik Wright]

I ride a Kilo WT as a fixed fendered and basketed city bike. Using Tektro 
559s it fits a 50mm tire without fenders, and I run 38mm + fenders. Looks 
like the 62cm Ocean Blue is in stock here on Bikesdirect. 
 I 
have the 59cm with a 75cm saddle height.

Erik, Philly

On Friday, November 5, 2021 at 5:30:11 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> if you have a bit of patience and feel like being creative you could just 
> get a custom made - 
> https://www.marinobike.com/product/custom-gravel-fixed-cyclocross-frame/
>
> I had them build me a track drop out fixed gear mountain bike taking all 
> my favorite things from my favorite bikes ( crust evasion clearance and 
> geo, original surly 1x1 inspired QR dropouts and no braze ons for anything 
> because its a silly minimal mountain bike, jack taylor rough stuff elevated 
> seat stays.) They did a fantastic job with great customer service. it was 
> cheaper (with shipping) than I could in Canada from any company.
>
> [image: PXL_20211017_175441624.jpg]
>
> On Friday, November 5, 2021 at 9:21:32 AM UTC-6 Bones wrote:
>
>> The Wabi I've been commuting on is perfect in spirit but it's just too 
>> small. If anyone has a frame for sale (i.e. 62-64 Quickbeam, Simpleone ~ 
>> whatever for 80cm saddle height), I'd be interested. Similarly, if anyone 
>> can point to something else that might fit the bill, I'd appreciate it. The 
>> forthcoming Roaduno looks like it would be perfect, but I'm not sure I can 
>> hold out that long. I've got lots of single speed stuff and my commute is 
>> short and flat so I'd really like to stick with a SS frame.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Bones
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wall Hanging Bike with Albatross Bars

[Erik Wright]

Living in a 100 year old row home, learning how to store/mount all my bikes 
when I first moved in was a JOURNEY. I explored most wall-mounting options, 
having 4 bikes all mounted differently as display / storage on the first 
floor of my house.

At the Philly Bike Expo '17 I saw DaHanger 
, which mounts just like the 
Gootus that Michael shared. I picked one up and it's by far my favorite of 
all the wall-mounting options. It feels tidier than other options and keeps 
the wheels tucked against the wall so the bike encroaches on the living 
space much less. It works great with Albatross bars, my 50cm Cowchippers, 
and other wide bars. I haven't tried vertical stacking like they say you 
can do, but I'm considering it.

I recommend it!

Erik, Philly

On Friday, August 20, 2021 at 11:11:28 AM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> I have a similar issue in my apartment. I was thinking of trying this: the 
> Gootus mount.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TR993MF/ref=twister_B0967ZZJM9?_encoding=UTF8=1
>
> I'm mostly repulsed by bike hanging systems because they all seem to 
> appear to be torturing bikes or making them look like they are drawn and 
> quartered. I think bikes should be stored as ready-to-go as possible.
>
> Has anyone used it?
>
> Michael
>
> PS If your Quickbeam is a 58cm, I'll buy it. I'm in NYC too.
>
>
> On Friday, August 20, 2021 at 10:46:59 AM UTC-4 Minh wrote:
>
>> Hoping to mine the collective mind a little bit.  I'm trying to figure 
>> out how to wall mount my quickbeam, but i have the ultra wide albatross 
>> bars which is pushing it away from the wall.  
>>
>> has anyone mounted something similar?  did you use off the shelf rack or 
>> built something custom?I tried a cycloc (which is pretty far off the 
>> wall) and see to remember the front wheel still needed to be turned a bit 
>> to clear the wall!
>>
>> this is a last effort to come up with an acceptable solution to store my 
>> QB in our small brooklyn apt, otherwise i may have to let it go so thanks 
>> for any ideas!
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Do you stand and pull with upright bars?

[Erik Wright]

Hey Zack,

I ride with Albatross bars on my Hillborne. I also do a lot of city riding 
in Philly where just about every intersection has a stop sign. I stand & 
pull all the time from just about every hand position on the bar. In my 
opinion, it's fine. The one thing I'd say is to make sure you either use a 
25.4 stem or get a shim for a 26.0 stem- the bars WILL scooch around with 
aggressive pulling.

Erik, Philly
On Thursday, June 24, 2021 at 6:05:52 AM UTC-7 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi Zack,
> I stand to climb even with a full load on my touring bike. Alabas are at 
> my bare minimum width for this, but body types vary. I transitioned to a 
> wider bar and enjoy it more than the albas on this bike. The bars are 
> generic chrome steel from a bike I bought long a go, but they just work. I 
> had the bike loaded up for a test run this week and climbed well for me 
> standing. When climbing or acellerating as you describe, I pull on the bars 
> and rock the bike. 
> Go for it.
> Tom Palmer
> Twin Lake, MI
>
> On Thursday, June 24, 2021 at 2:49:48 AM UTC-4 zem...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I've been interested in switching to albatross bars but one of my 
>> concerns is that it'll be difficult to stand, pedal hard, and pull on the 
>> bars. I do a lot of city riding, so being able to do this from a stop or 
>> rolling stop is a key part of my riding. 
>>
>> I've watched Dan Stroud's (aka hobocross) video on how he sets up his 
>> albas to have more of a "hoods" position, which seems like a natural 
>> solution to this problem, but in his video he doesn't seem to stand and 
>> pull a whole lot. 
>>
>> Link to the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGokAt6XAi0=152s
>>
>> Anyone have thoughts/experience with this?
>>
>> Zack
>> Toronto/DC
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] What draws you to a single speed bike?

[Erik Wright]

Hey Roberta,

I'm also in Philly and popped a ss/fixed gear into my rotation in February 
2020. I've dabbled in fixed gear riding twice before this over the past 10 
years, so for me I think a piece of it is nostalgia. I agree with what 
folks are saying about the simplicity of having one gear. I find I just 
think about my riding less when I don't have the option to shift. Go 
faster? Pedal faster. Going uphill? Stand up.

Two other pieces for me are variety and perpetual tinkering ("what *other* kind 
of bike could I ride?"). I got this bike (Mercier Kilo WT) mainly as a 
winter bike, and it's fully fender-able and accommodates a pretty wide tire 
(50mm max). It's not a zippy, race-y fixie like a lot of people like to 
ride; it's just about as heavy as the rest of my bikes, but I like it. 
Grant talked about this in a recent Blahg about their upcoming fixed/ss 
model, but I like how the momentum of riding fixed carries you through the 
undulations of the road.

I used to work in Roxborough (for non-Philly folks: a hilly northwestern 
part of the city) and felt I'd never be able to get up to my office with 
only one gear. In late 2019 we moved our office down here to South Philly 
(flat) so I thought it was an appropriate time to add one to the rotation 
as a "bop around town" kind of bike. Whenever I head into West Philly the 
hills are just a refreshing challenge, but that's the case whether I have 
gears or not.

Thinking about Will's recommendation, I think when compared to your Joe 
Appa and Homer, a single speed would likely be a lighter bike that just 
requires less thought. Just a nice bike to add in there to add some variety 
in your riding experience.

Erik, Philly

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 9:19:17 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:

> Central Ohio, where I ride, is mostly flattish, so riding single speed 
> adds some challenge to my rides. And I like to ride fixed gear, which IS 
> different than just riding a geared bike in one gear. 
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Sunday, April 18, 2021, Roberta  wrote:
>
>> I am truly curious.  How is it different than just not shifting?  How is 
>> it more fun?  When I was looking for a second Riv, Will (at Riv) suggested 
>> their single speed (I didn't do it).
>>
>> I had a 49 lb Raleigh LTD-3 for a few months prior to Riv, which had been 
>> converted it to a single speed.   I rode the bike around downtown for 
>> errands.  It was tons of fun, but Philadelphia is flat downtown, so SS was 
>> OK. I'd be concerned about any hills.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: brake levers on albastache bars

[Erik Wright]

I just snagged some of those levers as well and mounted them on some 
Noodles. The inserts are to adjust the angle of the lever/hoods in relation 
to the bar. On a drop bar, they change how much the hoods tilt back towards 
you vs how far forward they tilt. They came in pretty handy with the Noodle 
bars I installed them on, because the curve of the Noodle's bend to the 
drops is much different than, say, a more modern ergo bar with a sharper 
angled bend. The inserts allowed my to set the levers up with a flat 
bar-to-hood position. I agree that they were very difficult to mount with 
the inserts inside the levers- not sure why this is. Once they were past 
the end of the bar, they moved smoothly. I just kinda muscled them on there 
with the clamp fully loose.

Strange to explain without images, and maybe that's all gibberish. Google 
didn't turn up much image-wise, but on an Albastache I'd recommend leaving 
the inserts aside. They seem more necessary when top-of-the-hoods is a 
riding position; less so on an Albastache where the levers are turned 
sideways.

Erik, Philly

On Tuesday, April 13, 2021 at 4:21:26 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I like to mount them with the ends of the levers a smidge inside of the 
> plane of the grips, such that if you learned the bar flat against a wall 
> the levers wouldn't touch it. 
>
> For symmetry you can get one lever mounted, then get a piece of masking 
> tape cut to the exact length from the inside of the hood to the stem. Move 
> that piece over to the other side and slide your lever on to the same spot. 
> Not sure about getting them positioned at the same level..maybe use a tape 
> measure from the floor to the lever? 
>
> I can't help with the inserts, sorry. Maybe you can post a pic?
>
> Joe "my wrists can't ride these bars but they sure look cool" Bernard
>
> On Tuesday, April 13, 2021 at 1:06:11 PM UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:
>
>> Hi, I was hoping to tap in on this group's knowledge yet again. I am 
>> mounting TRP road-brake levers on Albastache bars. My questions are as 
>> follows:
>>
>> 1.  Does anyone have a recommended location on the bar to mount them? I 
>> understand that I should mount them wherever comfortable, but I'm hoping 
>> someone can just tell me a reasonable place to mount them, and if it works 
>> for most, it'll probably work for me.
>>
>> 2. Having identified the right place to mount them, how do I make sure 
>> that they are exactly symmetrical, as I am OCD about handlebar issues?
>>
>> 3.  These levers come with a plastic insert. I couldn't figure out what 
>> to do with the inserts, as I can't even get the levers on to the bars if I 
>> leave them in there. Am I doing something wrong?
>>
>> Thanks as always for any information.
>>
>> Jim S.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: No Group Pinning? Added "RBW-Ephemera" Tag. "Subscribe" is a thing

[Erik Wright]

Thanks for the problem solving, Jim. I noticed the same thing yesterday 
when I wanted to dig into some Rivendell Readers and noticed that Reed's 
collection is no longer pinned at the top. Hopefully Google sorts this out, 
but if not, the tag is a reasonable workaround.

Erik, Philly

On Saturday, January 2, 2021 at 1:04:37 PM UTC-5 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

> Hey there and best wishes for a Happy New Year.
>
> Was enjoying the Rivendell catalog archive thread which Eric started and 
> tried to pin the topic so it wouldn't get buried under a swath of FS posts. 
> Suddenly realized that the new (well..."newer" as it's been in place for a 
> while now) Google Groups interface seems to have removed my ability to pin 
> posts to the top of the group. I've put in a mention of it through the 
> "Report Bugs" tool, but that's likely gone the way of all things. 
>
> It did encourage me to add a second LABEL to this group. In this case, 
> "RBW-Emphemera". This is a quick tag to use to separate out all the printed 
> material which GP and the gang have produced. If you are discussing 
> catalogs, mailers, flyers, bicycle announcements, etc., please use the 
> Label to make it easier to find. 
>
> I've Labeled the recent "Completing the Rivendell catalog archive" thread, 
> as well as the earlier Readers archive. 
>
> I had scanned and accumulated a few things on the Cyclofiend.com RBW page 
> - 
> https://cyclofiend.com/rbw/
>
> I'm also adding "RBW-History" for the various model/year threads and 
> discussions.
>
> When I was poking at all the menus looking for the nonexistent PIN option, 
> I did remind myself that there is now a "SUBSCRIBE" option for threads. It 
> defaults to ON when you start a thread, but if there is a specific thread 
> you want to follow, you can choose to do so through a quick mouse click (or 
> finger tap).
>
> Here's to great rides. 
>
> - Jim / admin
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How large of a tire will a Sam Hillborne actually fit

[Erik Wright]

I put 50mm Gravelking SK on Atlas rims on my Sam last week. Tightest spot 
is the fork crown. If I pump them up past 30ish PSI, they rub. I'd say 50mm 
is the uncomfortable max tire size; 48 is likely the comfortable limit. I'm 
fine with the current setup and will keep running the Gravelkings, but 
anything larger isn't really an option. There's solid clearance all around 
on the rear, though.

I had Snoqualmie Pass tires on there (Dyad rims) underneath SKS fenders 
last year. It was very tight, finicky to set up, and there wasn't much 
clearance for anything but water to splash up in there. I went through some 
deep mud once and it was a hassle to remove the tires and scrape mud out 
just to get the bike rolling.

My Sam is a 2012 or 2014, so sidepull, but last year I had canti posts 
added and run Paul Motolites.

Erik, Philly

On Friday, November 6, 2020 at 8:50:01 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:

> I’ve seen the limit listed as 47-48mm without fenders on the Riv site but 
> I suspect some of you have pushed the limits. 
> How fat did you go?
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] Wheelset advice sought (and WTB)

[Erik Wright]

Hey bunch,

I recently sold my Roadini and so my Sam H has taken the reins as my drop 
bar road bike. Until this week it'd been my fendered, basketed, dynamo'd, 
Choco bar'd townie, but a Mercier Kilo WT fixed gear has taken over that 
slot through the upcoming winter.

Riding my Sam this morning definitely felt like I was pushing some weight. 
I don't expect my Sam to feel as nimble and snappy as the Roadini did, but 
I think it could certainly lose some weight. Based on what I've learned 
over the years, it sounds like the wheelset is the easiest place to make a 
noticeable difference. I'm currently running a Rich-built Atlas rear wheel 
(unsure of the hub) and a Shimano dynamo'd Dyad in the front, with 700x44 
Snoqualmie Pass standard casing tires. Seems like a pretty hefty wheelset 
(especially for my 150lb self) that makes sense for the commutery/touring 
build, and maybe it still makes sense for a more road-oriented build, but 
I'm curious to hear some thoughts.

What wheelset (hub/rim combo) would you recommend for a Sam that's going to 
see 80% pavement, 20% rougher stuff/gravel, carry *light* 5-10lb loads from 
time to time, and likely run 700x38 tires (to leave the option open for 
fenders)?

If you've got something in your parts bin that fits the bill, send me a PM. 
If buying used, I'd like to spend something in the $200 range (flexible 
based on tubeless ready/dynamo/etc).

Maybe I should just cut off the second top tube to shave grams? Maybe then 
it'd plane

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: WTB 56 Black Mountain Cycles Road (rim brake)

[Erik Wright]

One more bump for the people in the back, then I'll get back to my eBay and 
Paceline sleuthing.

Thanks!

Erik, phl

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[RBW] Re: Fixed gear dropouts and fenders

[Erik Wright]

Thanks for the tips everybody. Lots of good stuff here.

   - Quick release clips are an interesting solution- my SKS fenders only 
   came with them on the front fender, but retrofitting for the rear sounds 
   like a great option
   - Phil Wood hub sounds pricey but like a solid option if/when I need to 
   replace the rear wheel. What a neat design feature.
   - Altering the fender is also an interesting thought
   - removing the mounting bolts sounds like a very reasonable option and 
   relatively easy given that I won't be removing the wheel very often

but in the end, I'll likely take Eric's advice and just deflate the tire 
for now since that requires the least amount of investment in new hardware. 
Seems like a good temporary solution until I'm forced to make some changes 
to the bike, or if I find myself popping the back wheel off often enough 
that it becomes annoying.

Thanks for all your input!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Fixed gear dropouts and fenders

[Erik Wright]

Hey all,

Speaking to the Simple One / Quickbeam owners out there (or anyone else 
with this experience)- is there a trick to rear wheel removal with 
rear-facing horizontal dropouts when you have fenders mounted? I recently 
set up a Mercier Kilo WT as my city bike, which is basically a track bike 
with clearance for big tires and fenders. I'm running 700x35 tires with SKS 
P50 (or 45?) fenders.

Once I got my fenders mounted, I realized I can't easily get the rear wheel 
out without deflating the tire. I know VO makes the "spring thing" for 
addressing fender alignment with forward-facing horizontal dropouts, but is 
there any trick to getting a good fender line with rear-facing dropouts 
while also being able to easily remove the wheel? Almost like the rear 
equivalent of a spring thing...

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: WTB 56 Black Mountain Cycles Road (rim brake)

[Erik Wright]

***Weekend bump***

I'll be bikepacking this weekend and hope to come back into civilization to 
an inbox blown up with sale offers for a Black Mtn Road!

Erik, Philly

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Re: [RBW] Sellers, post your full emails

[Erik Wright]

I just don't want my inbox blown up with every response to every thread, 
even if it's filtered to a separate RBW Bunch folder or something like 
that. I enjoy the interface of clicking through threads as I please in 
addition to reading threads in a descending order and having the thread 
confined to one space- things come across clearer to me that way, rather 
than sorta getting my emails mixed up / out of order. In fact one of the 
first things I did when I joined the group was turn off email notifications 
entirely, other than PMs.

It's not a huge deal, and if Google Groups stuff doesn't get sorted then 
maybe I will move to emails, I just also read emails all damn day at work 
and appreciate the respite. Not the end of the world, I just prefer the web 
interface. That said, maybe I just don't use email filters correctly.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 5:25:41 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:

> To All:
>
> Taking a quick break from my work-at-home activities to express a bit of 
> puzzlement. I’ve been on this list for years, and for years I’ve seen 
> messages about people who try to respond to the person who posted a message 
> but couldn’t for some reason. I *think* this is all based on issues in the 
> online version of Google Groups, right?
>
> You all know that you can get all of this stuff sent to you in you email 
> inbox, yes? You get an email that is the same as the post on Google Groups, 
> which comes with the email of the sender/poster in it. Then you use your 
> email program to compose a message back. Quick and easy. I’ve done it this 
> way since … forever.
>
> Am I missing something? Are these people philosophically averse to using 
> email? You don’t *have* email? You only want to interact with the RBW Group 
> online? 
>
> Sorry, just had to get that off my chest. It’s just that the same problem 
> comes up over and over and over again, and the solution is so easy.
>
> OK, back to work for me. 
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>
> On Sep 3, 2020, at 1:52 PM, Garth  wrote:
>
>  
>
>Yep, I'm logged in Jim.  I can switch between the classic and new group 
> formats at will. I use Firefox desktop only w/Linux Mint. I just tried it 
> with Chrome also, no go there too. Classic view I can reply to author, new 
> view I cannot, as I showed in the photo I sent you. In fact, I could not 
> have even got to that point unless I was logged in. I've reported it google 
> so many times I lost count, so I do wonder if such reports are even read.  
> I do find it a bit comical though, having permission to not have permission 
> ! 
>
>
> On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 3:52:48 PM UTC-4, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>
>> As a follow up to my follow up:
>>
>> - I've confirmed that "Reply to author" was authorized in the group 
>> settings.
>>
>> But in doing so, did notice that "Reply to author" is open only to group 
>> members (set that way on purpose).
>>
>> I'm wondering if those of you who have experienced issues with this may 
>> have been logged out of the group - in other words, viewing it from another 
>> email/google ID which is not recognized as the member ID.
>>
>> Since a few of you have had trouble only in mobile, I'm curious if that's 
>> a vector. 
>>
>> Can you confirm that you are actually logged into the group when this is 
>> not functioning?
>>
>> Again - thanks.
>>
>> - J
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 12:45:52 PM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
>>> As a quick follow up - I've received several screen shots which have me 
>>> covered. Thanks!
>>>
>>> Have send a request/bug report/trouble ticket thingy and will hopefully 
>>> have some understanding of the issue.
>>>
>>> Probably some nested setting lodged under an innocuous arrow or 
>>> three-dot-link.
>>>
>>> Thank you again.
>>>
>>> - Jim / list admin
>>>
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne vs A. Homer Hilsen

[Erik Wright]

A couple notes after watching Russ's review at Path Less Pedaled, too:

   1. He notes 45.5cm chainstays. He rides the 650b version, which (according 
   to this geometry chart 
   ) 
   could mean that the geo of the new batch of Sams might not be much of a 
   diversion from the last batch. 700c has 46.5cm chainstays.
  1. Unless, of course, he reviewed a Sam from the last batch that 
  Riv still had in stock.
   2. According to that same geo chart, A. Homer Hilsen has 47.5cm 
   chainstays in the 650b sizes, and up to 49cm and 53cm in the big ol' sizes.

Therefore, chainstay length + brake choice + tubing(???) might make the two 
bikes a smidge more different than each other. Basically going from 95% the 
same bike to 90% the same bike.

That's the nerdiest I've gotten about bikes in a while.

Erik, Philly

On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 11:39:52 AM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>
> Joel,
>
> I’ve not verified this with the Riv folks but the weight difference 
> between the two seems like it would be in the tubing. My Homer and Sam have 
> identical setups but Homer is two pounds lighter (says a bathroom scale). 
> It also feels a touch lighter just lifting it and ditto for the ride.
>
> From the last Riv catalog:
> “Sam is a hair stouter, so we give it more burly points than Homer, but 
> the Sam and Homer are 95 percent functional clones. . .”
>
> Also this: “If you want speed on the road with versatility to tour or ride 
> dirt now and then, the A. Homer Hilsen is ideal.”
>
> Hope this info helps with your decision. Pics or any other questions feel 
> free to ask.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 3, 2020, at 11:17 AM, Dorothy C > 
> wrote:
>
> Different brake styles would be the main thing, now that Sams are V brake 
>
> On Thursday, September 3, 2020 at 7:05:38 AM UTC-7 Joel wrote:
>
>> Old thread, I wonder if now since both are MIT and both now have the same 
>> TT slope if the opinions expressed hold.  Also I don’t know if the tubing 
>> is now the same.  
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, August 11, 2017 at 9:39:25 PM UTC-4, Paul Choi wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm new to Rivendell bikes and to this forum. I'm considering a SH or 
>>> AHH. This would be a all-around bike that used for commuting, light touring 
>>> and some occasional off road riding. These bikes seem similar. 
>>>
>>> Can you tell me the differences of these two bikes?
>>>
>>> For those of you that have both - your feedback would be really 
>>> appreciated. 
>>>
>>> Paul in Santa Clara, CA.
>>>
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/09ec52b3-c85b-4af6-84d7-336e4eb326cbn%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] WTB 56 Black Mountain Cycles Road (rim brake)

[Erik Wright]

Howdy,

Not a Riv, but I see a lot of Black Mountain Cycles chatter here so thought 
I'd post. Happy to delete if OT.

I'm Road curious. If you have a 56 gathering dust, let me know. I'm open to 
f/f/hs, complete, or somewhere in the middle.

Since PMing is funky with the new interface, feel free to email me off-list 
here: erik *dot* s *dot* wright *at* gmail *dot* com.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Who is using bike lights?

[Erik Wright]

I use Bontrager Flare R (rear) and Ion 350 (front) when I’m out on the open 
road for longer day rides. I use a dynamo front and little blinky rear for 
city riding. The Bontrager lights are BRIGHT day-rated lights; too bright 
for city riding at night, in my opinion.

Erik
Philly

On Thursday, August 20, 2020 at 5:55:05 PM UTC-4 Joel wrote:

> 2 close calls in one day. My red blinking cateye is useless in daylight. 
>  I a interested in front and back lights to help me be more visible, your 
> thoughts and experiences are welcome.
>
> Thanks 
>
> Joel
>

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[RBW] Re: Biggest Tires on a Roadini?

[Erik Wright]

Yeah I'm running 700x35 Bon Jon Pass tires and clearance is comfortable. 
You *could* probably squeeze a 700x38 Barlow Pass in there, but to Bill's 
point, the clearance would be pretty tight. It depends on brake choice, 
too- I have a Tektro 539 in the front that I don't think would accept a 
700x38 tire, but the Shimano BR-something or other on the rear likely would.

Erik, Philly

On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 2:58:25 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The largest 700c tire I would run on a Roadini would be the 700x35 Bon Jon 
> Pass EL, which is a far more plush tire than a Jack Brown.  I would not be 
> surprised if somebody claimed to have run a Barlow Pass 700x38.  The Barlow 
> pass can run a tiny bit wider than 40mm on some rims, and for that reason 
> I'd never recommend the Barlow Pass on a Roadini or any bike that takes 
> brakes with similar typical clearance.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, June 17, 2020 at 10:06:02 AM UTC-7, Robert Gardner wrote:
>>
>> Hello Hello --
>>
>> Wondering what folks are running on their Roadini. I have Jack Browns and 
>> they are a great tire, but looking at options, wondering what folks are 
>> running? Anyone in the 40s?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 57 Grilver Roadini f/f/hs + extras - $700 shipped

[Erik Wright]

Hey all, this is off the market at the moment. I've done some rearranging 
of the build and am giving it another go. If you're interested, feel free 
to contact me off-list and I will reach out if/when the bike is up for sale 
again.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Lightening up my Joe Appaloosa--a full makeover. AHH--a partial makeover. Thanks to Analog Cycles.

[Erik Wright]

Seems like Analog is getting some good business! I reached out about a month 
ago and have a 650b dyno wheel (not wheelset) in the works for my Crust 
Evasion. My frame is the very bright sunset fade, so I asked them to throw some 
subdued color in there. The loud bike doesn’t need a loud wheelset, but I’m a 
sucker for color. Can’t wait to get it!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Roadini - 650b on bigger sizes?

[Erik Wright]

A few weeks ago, maybe a month, when the Blug came out that talked about 
getting a shipment in (or something like that) they mentioned getting the 
Charlie H Gallup prototypes. No info other than that they'd been received, 
adjustments made, and a production run or something coming late-summer.

During that time, on a Riv-adjacent Instagram account, I definitely saw 
this bike (pictured) in the background sorta behind some people (and no, I 
don't *think* it was the Platypus prototype):

[image: No. 30 Early November. Required reading, this time. It's light.]

I think on the Gallup thread it was pretty decided that the Gallup would be 
this model featured in a Blahg, but wanted to point out that I don't think 
the Roadini-adjacent model will be a traditional diamond frame. Not that 
you necessarily said it would be, Jason, but that's kinda how I interpreted 
Roadini-adjacent. I think we're gonna get Sams to fill that wide-tired, 
not-AHH "road" bike and I think we're gonna get this swoop-tube Charlie H. 
Gallup as a tig'd budget-ish, fits-50mm-tires model.

That's just my guess!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] FS: 57 Grilver Roadini f/f/hs + extras - $700 shipped

[Erik Wright]

Bump & price drop, $650 shipped

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[RBW] FS: 57 Grilver Roadini f/f/hs + extras - $700 shipped

[Erik Wright]

Howdy,

I like this Roadini but am at a point where I feel the urge to move it 
along. If nobody bites then I'll be happy to keep it, but thought I'd give 
it a shot.

Here is a link to a photo album. 
 What you get with the sale is:

   - 57cm Roadini f/f/hs
   - Seatpost
   - Bottom bracket

I'm also open to selling a partial build if you need any other bits and 
bobs that are currently on the bike.

No dents or dings in the frame, but it does show signs of wear from storage 
(tt / ht junction photo) and leaning it on stuff (green markings).

$700 shipped, packed by my LBS. Please contact me off-list if you're 
interested or have questions.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Shorts similar to Riv MUSA

[Erik Wright]

I’ve been wondering the same thing recently and figured Patagonia Baggies are 
pretty close to my MUSA shorts. I haven’t purchased any yet to confirm but 
likely will in the coming weeks.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Place-based bicycle design

[Erik Wright]

I was listening to an interview with James of Analog Cycles last night that 
he did with Path Less Pedaled (link here 
), and there were 1-2 times 
when talking about their new bike designs, the 0mm stem they're developing, 
etc that he mentioned "the roads that [he] rides" as a motivator for these 
design decisions. It made me think about a lot of discussions on here about 
the changes in Riv's designs (mostly long chainstays) and how I often read 
comments like "the trails out in Walnut Creek don't look like my trails," 
or things along those lines.

I think that makes total sense! This is a broad generalization, but my 
understanding/experience is that eastern trails are rocky, rooty, muddy, 
(...miserable?), and "require" suspension. Western trails are smooth, 
flowy, and "require" disc brakes (thinking about the PNW here). It's clear 
that Grant/Riv has designed bikes that work in 90% of the situations you 
put them in, but are also tailored to their specific riding experiences. 
Same goes for Analog, as they're designing for their specific riding styles 
and environments that are different than Riv's. I think what's particularly 
unique about these two companies is that their designs are pretty outside 
the box; they're not subtle changes, they're mile-long chainstays and 0mm 
stems.

Of course people design bike *featur*es to reflect their environments 
(fender mounts & clearance in wet climates, for example), but what I 
thought was neat about this Analog / Riv comparison is that it's the actual 
geometry of the bikes that differ in order to meet the designer's 
environmental needs and riding styles.

I'm not sure if there's much to discuss here, but I just thought that was 
cool. Can y'all think of any other examples of this?

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Erik Wright]

Thanks for the brake lever rec's everybody. I'll like go for the TRP's.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Erik Wright]

Howdy,

I have a Roadini set up with 46cm Noodles. I'm using 9spd 105 brifters that 
I took off my old road bike, and I'm struggling to dial in the feel of the 
hoods. This is partially due to the lever / hood design (pretty boxy and 
bulky, don't like it that much), but I also can't work out the bar to hood 
transition, if that makes sense. I'd like a smooth transition from the top 
of the bar into the hood position of the lever, in effect creating a feel 
of the bullhorn handlebar. After many micro adjustments, I just can't get 
that with this lever/bar combo. Either the levers feel too close and create 
a harsh/abrupt transition to the hoods, or they're too far below the bend 
for my liking.

I figured I'd switch to downtube shifters and go with the Tiagra BL-R400 that 
Riv sells 

 
and uses on most of their bikes, but wanted to check in and see if anyone 
here has a different lever that they *love* with Noodles. Brakes are Paul 
Racers, if that's a factor.

Let's hear 'em!

Erik, Philly

p.s. Riv's out of stock with those Tiagra levers so if you have some in 
your bin that you'd like to get rid of, consider this a low key WTB post.

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[RBW] Re: Anyone have experience w this Quality Wheels Dynamo set?

[Erik Wright]

Assuming you're talking about the Dyad wheelset, I picked up a 700c front 
wheel to set up my Hillborne with a dynamo. It's served me well for about a 
year now, maybe 2, commuting and around-town riding in Philly. It's my 
first dynamo wheel so I don't have anything else to compare it to, but it's 
reliable as far as I can tell.

I had it on a Black Mtn Cycles Monstercross for a while and the vibration 
was noticeable, but I attributed that to a number of factors unrelated to 
the hub itself. On my Hillborne, it's been fine.

Erik, Philly

On Friday, April 24, 2020 at 2:19:41 PM UTC-4, Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>
> I'm attempting to build something that will last me, without breaking the 
> bank entirely. The majority of the build is accounted for between parts bin 
> parts and things on another bike. 
>
> A dynamo wheel set is non negotiable but the price is a big consideration. 
> Does anyone have experience with this wheel ( I guess it's sold 
> individually so maybe with these wheels)
>
>
> https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwisvcSG1oHpAhUNGAwKHX6EAwsYABAEGgJxYg=www.google.com=CAESQOD25I0nAo7hpZOZk2Efe8kIRo2bZZcmD9rBz1DIJnza1FAEJdaU8Da66wYBglihAM-RP_slFbSaDo9Ssg37y10=AOD64_3Kj8nOAum-NsPctTCum_WV3qHyog=5==2ahUKEwjh6LqG1oHpAhXThHIEHdfvCfoQwg96BAgLEBs=
>
> and
>
>
> https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwi16sGU1oHpAhULn58KHfPuCDYYABAEGgJxYg=www.google.com=CAESQOD2wcBYNUu0-kvVlHSf6kLcyoqu-oJqKJsXPH2LKkDpj8bg5h6JHHX8LgbHLRXChNLMTBfwX79CQ8ewrBNdSqE=AOD64_1o1r4IpsLaXuJV-w4hABSQ8Tcf0A=5==2ahUKEwjHyLWU1oHpAhV1lnIEHanfCkMQwg96BAgIEB0=
>
> Will be mostly used for commuting and riding around NYC, I weigh about 160 
> so the 36h seems a bit extra, but they aren't available in 32h. 
>
> any thoughts?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Introduction with ulterior motive

[Erik Wright]

There’s a few good crank options that someone’s selling over on iBob right now:

https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/internet-bob/3xeT5WyIjVE

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[RBW] Re: Introduction with ulterior motive

[Erik Wright]

I’m gonna guess your existing crank is 110 BCD and likely won’t accommodate a 
smaller front ring, as I’m also assuming it comes with a 34 lil’ ring. That’s 
generally the smallest ring you can fit on a crank like that. A 30 tooth ring 
floated around here recently on another thread but for a cost of a new crank.

You wouldn’t necessarily need a new derailleur depending on how you set it up. 
I have a sugino triple that I set up as a wide/low double by removing the outer 
ring and replacing the middle ring with a 44 tooth chainring. I use an old 
suntour derailleur and didn’t need a triple-specific derailleur. One additional 
cost associated with this move is the need for single speed chainring bolts, 
but those run $10 or so.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] 650b tires for 47 cm Roadini

[Erik Wright]

I seem to remember reading that the 47 Roadini was designed with bigger 
clearances in mind because tire availability in 650x32-35 is pretty slim, 
whereas 650x38-42 is much easier to find.

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[RBW] Re: Chocomoose Versions

[Erik Wright]

Based on everyone else's responses it sounds like there's only been one 
chocomoose, but I do seem to recall at least 2 versions of the *bosco*moose. 
Something like the first batch came in with the wrong/miscommunicated grip 
angle, so Riv sold them at a discount and reordered with the correct angle?

Not totally relevant to the OP's question, but it was the first thing I 
thought of. Maybe it's what JS is thinking of too.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] WTT: my 11cm Technomic stem for your 12cm

[Erik Wright]

Hi group,

I did a handlebar swap on a bike and the fit is a little tight. If you have 
a 12cm lying around and are in search of an 11, let me know!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bags, Bags, Bags and More

[Erik Wright]

Hey Ahmed,

I’ll take the Super C saddlebag if it’s still available.

Thanks,
Erik


On Saturday, March 28, 2020 at 1:22:09 AM UTC-4, Ahmed Elgasseir wrote:
> Corona Clean Up of the Garage...
> Apologies in advance for any "For Sale" faux pas, as this is really my first 
> attempt at selling stuff on here. 
> 
> 
> I am a Riv nerd with four rivs so over the years I have collected a bunch of 
> different bags and things in an attempt to dial things up just the way I 
> want. Many impulse buys the just didn't work but they're all in almost 
> perfect condition, if not totally unused. 
> 
> 
> Prices are not including shipping. PayPal or local pickup - I am on the 
> Peninsula in Sillycon Valley. If you're interested I will send more 
> info/pics. 
> 
> 
> 
> Brenn Bags (@cbrennbags in Scotland) Custom Saddle bag leather/treated 
> canvas, never used - $50
> Rivendell Sackville Saddle Sack SMALL - never used. They don't make this 
> anymore so it's a fun "rare" item. - $125
> 
> Ruthworks Custom Brevet - it was on a bike for a hot minute and is in stellar 
> condition - $125
> 
> Ruthworks Custom Standard Wedge - Never used. - $100
> 
> Ruthworks Ultralight Brevet, used on one ride but in like new condition - $75
> 
> Ruthworks Ultralight Wedge, slightly used, $50
> 
> Carradice Carradry Heavy Duty saddle bag, never used - $25
> 
> Carradice "Super C" Cotton Canvas Saddle Pack, never used - $25
> 
> Trash Messenger Bags Custom RED "Wastebasket" fanny pack/mini messenger bag, 
> never used - $50
> 
> 
> Velo Orange Saddlebag in canvas and leather, never used - $20
> 
> Restrap Saddle Bag 8.5x5 rolled up, never used - $25
> 
> Velo Orange Constructeur Front Rack, never used - $75
> 
> Nitto M12 Front Rack, never used - $80

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[RBW] WTB Choco Bar

[Erik Wright]

Hey folks,

Like most, this home time has my mind racing with bike projects. I’ve thought 
about a Choco set up on my Sam for a while, and Riv’s out. I’ll likely buy a 
stem from them, but does anyone have a Choco Bar they’d like to move along?

Erik, PHL

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[RBW] Re: Adding spikes to MKS Grip Kings

[Erik Wright]

Hey Jason,

I thought they used to have a video on their website on how to add screws 
to their Grip Kings, but maybe not. I couldn't find one just now. I did 
this about a year ago and it's pretty simple-- just use a drill with a 
3/32" bit, drill through the holes/pockets where you want the screws, then 
screw 'em in! I was nervous to take a drill to my pedals, but it all worked 
out fine. I believe I put 8 per side, 4 front/4rear. Very, very grippy. I 
was trying to mimic the grip of some Race Face Chester pedals 

 I 
have on another bike and it worked great.

Best of luck!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Will a Tubus Duo mount to a 700c Hunqapillar fork w/o p-clamps?

[Erik Wright]

Whoops, should’ve looked up the Tubus model BEFORE I sent over that link. Looks 
like a no-go.

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[RBW] Re: Will a Tubus Duo mount to a 700c Hunqapillar fork w/o p-clamps?

[Erik Wright]

Could you use a pair of these universal mounting bolts make by King Cage? I’ve 
had this bookmarked for a while knowing I’ll need them for something one day.

http://kingcage.com/index.php?products=yes

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[RBW] Charlie H Gallop!

[Erik Wright]

My guess is that it’s the revamped Hunq that was chattered about a bit on an 
email or Blug.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] WTB Rosco Bubbe step through

[Erik Wright]

Hey all,

I'm not talking about the jumbo/huge. Does anybody have one of these that's 
not seeing much mileage that they're looking to move on? I've missed a 
couple opportunities in the past year where they've popped up here and got 
cold feet. There's another Bubbe frame hanging up at RBW HQ that I'll 
likely snag if there's not a step thru around here, but the step thru is 
what I'm really after.

f/f/hs preferred. Contact me off list if this interests you! Thanks

Erik, Philly

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Erik Wright]

Sean & Chris,

I didn't have to dimple the chainstays, but I did have a local builder add 
canti posts at 650b height. I will say that the clearances are tight both 
at the fork crown and the chainstays, but there's about 3-4mm of space left 
in both places. I haven't measured the actual tire width, but I'm guessing 
the fact that they're mounted to Velocity Dyads is keeping them from 
pumping up to their full 54mm stated width.

Related to wheel diameter, a big concern of mine with this conversion was 
dropping the bb too low, especially given my intent of riding off road. I 
am getting a bit of pedal strike on rocky trails, but I'm just having to 
pay closer attention to my riding technique and not blowing over the 
terrain. I used this website  to 
crunch wheel diameter numbers before I committed. I was running Snoqualmie 
Pass tires before, so 700x44 = a wheel diameter of ~710mm. Now with 
650x2.1, it's ~690mm.

When I thought about the conversion dropping the bb 2cm lower, I also took 
into consideration that the bike likely wasn't designed around a 44mm tire, 
and probabaly a 35 or 38mm tire, which has a wheel diameter of ~696mm. So 
while it's 2cm lower than where I had it, it's not really much lower than 
it *would* be if I had 700x35ish tires.

All in all, these are approximations, and I just went for it. The bike is 
very, very cool and I think I'm having the most fun on a bike I've had in a 
while. I'm amazed at how fast and fun the ride is. I attribute it to great 
frame design and great tires.

Erik

On Saturday, June 29, 2019 at 11:31:45 AM UTC-4, Sean Kline wrote:
>
> Hi Erik, lime Chris’ question, do you know how much wheel cm you gained 
> going to 650b? What what was your wheel diameter before and after? 
>
> Thanks, 
> Sean

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Re: [RBW] Re: daily post ur riv

[Erik Wright]

I just finished up a 650b conversion on my Sam Hillborne. My intent was to 
squeeze in 2.1" tires for more offroad touring adventures later this summer 
when I head West for a couple months. Sure, the bike likely could've 
already handled that duty with it's max clearance of 700x45, but heck, I 
think this bike is pretty neat. Plus, Paul Motolites afford the opportunity 
to swap 700 and 650b wheel sizes. Likely not necessary, but I like options.

I'm fortunate to have some local MTB trails in my office's backyard, so I 
ride on pavement ~9 miles to the woods, ride some singletrack for 20-30 
minutes, then pop up to the office. This is a great bike to do it.

Photos here 


-Erik, Philly

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[RBW] iBob cross post: VO stem clunkin' around in there

[Erik Wright]

Good afternoon everybody,

I recently bought a VO 31.8 quill stem in order to try Salsa Cowchipper 
bars on my Sam Hillborne. I took it on some trails last week and felt some 
clunking around when I would go over rocks/bumps, and I could also feel a 
clunk when I hopped up curbs, hit potholes, etc. in the city. When I 
changed out the stem, I also regreased the headset. My first thought was 
that I didn't tighten the headset fully, but 1) when I hold the front brake 
and rock the bike, there's no perceptible clunk, and 2) I *over*tightened 
the headset to see if that would eliminate the clunk, and it did not.

I loosened the stem to exacerbate the knockin' around and took some videos. 
It's hard to tell, but in these two videos 
 you can see 
a minor ~1mm rock back and forth as I rock the handlebars, no matter the 
height of the stem. When the stem is tight, I can't rock it back and forth 
that easily, but that subtle knockin' around is noticeable when I hop 
curbs, etc.

I had a Noodle/Technomic cockpit on the bike before and there was no 
wiggle/knock/clunk. The only difference between this cockpit setup and the 
Technomic setup is that I removed the canti brake hanger from the stem 
spacer stack because I also changed the brakes to V brakes.

Has anyone experienced this before? Found any solutions? I thought I'd dig 
into the collective knowledge of this group before reaching out to VO about 
a warranty or something.

Thank you!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Blahg No. 21 & Instagram post Sam brake cable thing?

[Erik Wright]

Funny that this came up in the most recent Blahg because I'm in the process 
of doing the same thing to my Sam. I had canti posts brazed on by a local 
builder at 650b height, and am currently running my 700c wheelset but using 
Paul Motolites (set up for 700c) as I get ready to purchase a 650b set. I 
was really hoping 2.1" Thunderburts would fit in there, but from the looks 
of the Blahg, it ain't gonna happen. Maybe some Googling and sleuthing here 
on how to dimple chainstays will come into play soon. I'll be sure to post 
photos once the transformation is complete! It's a big ol' makeover.

Erik, Phillly

On Friday, June 14, 2019 at 10:41:51 PM UTC-4, Pancake wrote:
>
> Instagram photos of staff bikes lead to a commenter to ask about a brake 
> cable that seems to lead to nowhere. @rivbike replied that there’s a small 
> hint about it in the Blahg. I think it’s about Roman’s 700c to 650b 
> conversion. But I still don’t know what the cable is for ... any guesses? 
>
> Attached photos from Instagram and what I think is the relevant Blahg 
> photo: 
>
> Abe

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[RBW] Re: Dear Riv, please make a wider Noodle

[Erik Wright]

I'm guessing many of y'all have seen this: 
https://crustbikes.com/products/nitto-x-crust-2/

Lots of folks were mentioning the Towel Rack bar in this thread (26.0 
clamp, very wide, not made by Nitto), and this new Crust/Nitto collab looks 
to be a middle ground between a Noodle and the Towel Rack. These bars have 
a 31.8 clamp, and maybe that's how they're able to meet the rigorous 
requirements that Grant outlined.

Erik, Philly

On Saturday, June 23, 2018 at 4:55:10 PM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>
> I'm sure the 666mm Crust bars are way too wide for most, but I love them. 
> And they don't really make them anyway, I was just in the right place when 
> they brought out the one run. I keep waiting for someone to put a wide drop 
> bar into production.
>
> I think a 58 Noodle would be a huge hit for a lot of riders. 
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Brynnar
> Indy
>
>

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[RBW] What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Erik Wright]

I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam 
Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier. Canti 
brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.

If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top of 
the line is Paul, but what's a more affordable brake? I see a lot of 
chatter around Shimano CX70, but hear they're discontinued. Is there a 
comparable option available now, or does it make sense to hunt down a used 
set of CX70s? If I splurge on Neo Retros, am I gaining anything 
functionally over other options?

Thanks!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Thunderburts on a Canti Sam?

[Erik Wright]

Hey Folks,

I have a 56cm 2TT sidepull Sam Hillborne and a 56cm BMC Monstercross 
(non-disc). Sam is my road bike (that I occasionally ride on trails), the 
BMC is my dirt / mixed surface tourer / bikepacking bike.

Sam has Snoqualmie Pass, my BMC has 2.1" Thunderburts.

These bikes are so similar that I feel like I can consolidate them into 
one. I love the BMC (really, what a wonderful bike!), but I'd also like to 
keep a Riv in my fleet because I want to support them. I'm wondering if I 
can use a canti Sam as a dual-duty bike by just swapping tires. A comfy 
mixed surface road bike (with Snoqualmie Pass) and also a dirt tourer 
(Thunderburts).

I'd like the ability to swap between Snoqualmie and Thunderburts on the 
same bike. So, to the point: do 2.1" Thunderburts fit on a Canti Sam? Riv 
lists 47mm as the widest tire it'll accommodate, but I'm wondering if folks 
have differing experience. They'd likely be mounted to Velocity Dyads.

Thanks for your input!

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Bike shows and Rivendell

[Erik Wright]

Holy smokes! At PBE 2018 I was thinking "man, it would be cool if Riv were 
here." Dreams do come true. I wonder if this is some kind of 2019 plan they 
have to expand their audience?

Erik, Philly

On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 3:37:46 PM UTC-5, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> I could have easily missed earlier times, but I did notice that Rivendell 
> is listed as an exhibitor at both the upcoming NAHBS shows as well as the 
> Philly Bike Expo later in the year.  I like it!  Not that I will be able to 
> attend either, not the current plan anyway, but I am glad they will be 
> there.
>
> https://www.nahbs.com
>
> https://phillybikeexpo.com
>
> Bob
>

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[RBW] Re: Afternoon ride from home into the mountains and back on my Sam

[Erik Wright]

Great looking bike, great looking ride! I have the same Sam; I picked it up 
off this list about a year ago now. Like Tim I've swapped around cockpit 
setups for the past year-- started with Mustache, went to Albatross, then 
to Albastache, now Noodles. This is the first time I've set up a bike with 
drops in years because I swore they were the worst, and was convinced I 
couldn't make them work on my Sam because of the TT length.

Boy was I wrong! Now I have the elusive "bike that makes you want to ride 
more."

I'm planning a tire upgrade from my Marathon 38s and have been going back 
and forth between Barlow Pass (38s) and Snoqualmie Pass (44s). I'm just not 
sure if one day I'll want to squeeze fenders on there, and that seems less 
likely with the Snoqualmies.

Anyway, that's a good lookin' 'za you've got on there.

Erik, Philly

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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Erik Wright]

I thought I'd jump back in about a month later to update with what I came 
up with. I had a DIY lift a tube in the back of my mind these past few 
weeks, and last week went to a hardware store for some lightbulbs and 
decided to stand around in there looking for things I could use to make a 
lift-a-tube. Well, a 90 degree PVC corner thing and some clamp-y things 
turned out to do the trick, and I now have a lift-a-tube. The usefulness is 
out of this world. I might just have to make one of these for all of my 
bikes!

Photos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6YCYorihiQQJtxUf8

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 3:16:53 PM UTC-4, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's lift-a-tube 
> for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My commute is 
> ~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 6,000 ft*), and 
> I have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main roads, and one on 
> back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out much of the climb.
>
> When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike 
> I'm riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.
>
> I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
> easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
> shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
> achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
> to make something.
>
> 1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
> 2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?
>
> Erik, Philly
>
>
> *this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a doozie 
> on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.
>

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Erik Wright]

Funny timing... I've been tossing around the idea of buying an Albastache 
for the past two days and decided this morning that I'm going to pick one 
up! Just waiting for Riv to open so I can call and find out how to redeem 
my hail mary...

I'm picking up a pair because I feel like I lie directly in that sweet 
spot, of Albatross bars being a smidge too upright (for my intended 
purpose) and drops just not being my thing.

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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Erik Wright]

Woof, shoulda used the search function. Thanks Bill.

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 3:35:18 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Here are two links:
>
> ETSY store for a nice individual who makes pretty liftatubes by hand and 
> sells them 
> <https://www.etsy.com/listing/257798839/the-best-leather-bike-carry-handle?ga_order=most_relevant_search_type=all_view_type=gallery_search_query=bicycle%20carrying%20strap=sr_gallery-1-1_search_click=1=1>
>
> and:
>
> LINK to a very overwrought review of the utility of a Liftatube 
> <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/uAipvJhyD4w>
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:16:53 PM UTC-7, Erik Wright wrote:
>>
>> Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's 
>> lift-a-tube for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My 
>> commute is ~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 
>> 6,000 ft*), and I have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main 
>> roads, and one on back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out 
>> much of the climb.
>>
>> When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike 
>> I'm riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.
>>
>> I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
>> easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
>> shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
>> achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
>> to make something.
>>
>> 1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
>> 2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>>
>>
>> *this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a 
>> doozie on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.
>>
>

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[RBW] Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Erik Wright]

Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's lift-a-tube 
for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My commute is 
~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 6,000 ft*), and I 
have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main roads, and one on 
back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out much of the climb.

When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike I'm 
riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.

I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
to make something.

1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?

Erik, Philly


*this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a doozie 
on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.

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[RBW] Re: Clean way to mount USB light to front rack?

[Erik Wright]

I've used a wine cork as a mount by strapping the USB light's strap around 
the cork and attaching it to the rack. This isn't my photo, but it's the 
basic idea.

On Monday, October 22, 2018 at 6:42:45 PM UTC-4, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Hopefully an obvious solution here. Without a generator hub I'm stuck 
> using a USB light on the new Atlantis and I can't figure an easy way to 
> mount it to the front rack as the mount is for handlebars. Not a huge deal 
> but I like the lower light position and not looking at the ugly light when 
> I ride. Looked up those accessory bars but they all seem to have the same 
> handlebar mount.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Brynnar
>
>

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[RBW] Re: iBob cross post: Which would you choose as a long distance road bike / rando-ish bike?

[Erik Wright]

Based on some feedback I've gotten here and over at iBob, I think I'm going 
to give the BMC the first shot. Reid, you do bring up a good point though-- 
I noticed some funky/unfamiliar handling with the Monstercross but 
attributed it to the alt bar setup knowing that the bike was designed for 
drops (I think). If the BMC is still weird, I'll give the Sam a shot with a 
~50-60mm stem.

Erik, Philly

On Monday, October 15, 2018 at 4:29:24 PM UTC-4, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> I've owned both, and wrestled with the same question. I kept my Sam and 
> sold my BMC. The monstercross has faster, CX-style steering to me, so it 
> was very fun offroad and responsive in flowing trails. However, when I 
> loaded it up and went on long rides in the UK this summer, I soon got tired 
> of keeping it "in line". The Sam with considerably more stack is, for me, 
> easier to set up with a very comfortable drop bar cockpit. Your mileage, 
> however, may vary. 
>

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[RBW] Re: iBob cross post: Which would you choose as a long distance road bike / rando-ish bike?

[Erik Wright]

For either bike I'd say the cockpit would be the biggest change, and tires. 
I'd most likely go Noodles+bar ends+shorter stem in either case, and I'm 
not sure on tires, but most likely spring for some Compass.

On Sunday, October 14, 2018 at 11:40:56 PM UTC-4, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> It sounds like your BMC is closer in configuration and current riding to 
> Rando than your Sam is. What changes would you make to the BMC to Rando-ize 
> it?
> -Justin, formerly of Philly

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[RBW] iBob cross post: Which would you choose as a long distance road bike / rando-ish bike?

[Erik Wright]

Hey all,

*Short version of the question:*

I have a 56cm double TT Sam Hillborne and a 56cm BMC Monstercross. If you 
were to choose between the two, which would you choose to set up as a drop 
bar long distance rando-type bike? Is the answer "whichever fits best"?

*Long version with some background info:*

I'm not a club rider and I don't typically go on day rides or recreational 
rides. Once in a blue moon I'll jump on my Giant Defy 3 
 and ride for a day with a 
couple friends, but for the most part I'm a rock solid commuter and bike 
camper. I received the Defy in 2015 for my participation in Bike & Build 
 and it was my first "nice" road bike, and by 
that I mean it was the first bike I got that wasn't $150 off craigslist or 
built at a bike coop. So I guess "nice" means new? Anyway, I've ridden it 
across the US twice and probably have about 12,000 miles on it, but it's 
not a reflection of the rest of my stable; after a 50ish mile ride today, I 
fully accepted that a) the fit is uncomfortable, b) the tires are way too 
heckin' narrow, and c) the ride is "jostling," a word that my friend used 
to describe the ride after comparing her similar road bike to the Cross 
Check she's been riding for a few months.

I want to attempt Crush the Commonwealth in the Spring and/or just do some 
longer rando-type rides, but I don't quite have the bike for it right now 
(at least in the ways they're set up). With a stable at 5 and my wallet 
feeling light, I'm very hesitant to buy the "right" bike to do it. I was 
eyeing the Crust Lightning Bolt last night, and while it'd be a dream, I 
decided I should work with what I've got.

I have a BMC Monstercross set up as my bikepacking/offroad touring rig (see 
photo), and my Sam set up in what I consider a "classic" Riv way: Albatross 
handlebars, Marks rack + basket, etc., and I use it as my fenderless 
fair-weather commuter. Honestly, it's the dream setup I imagined when I 
purchased the bike off this list. I know folks ride Sams as road bikes all 
the time, but wanted to hear if the BMC is a solid alternative for this 
purpose. Honestly, the long top tube of the Sam makes me hesitant, although 
I know I shouldn't read too much into the numbers and should just give it a 
shot.

Another thought I have is that maybe I just don't like drop bars? I haven't 
set a bike up with them for about 3 years and have gone mostly upright, 
cycling through the gambit of alt bars. That said, I want to give these 
46cm Noodles that I've had lying around a chance.

Thanks for all your input, and sorry if the photo is sideways.

Erik in Philly

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Re: [RBW] FS 2011 SAM HILLBORNE FRAMESET + SEAT POST

[Erik Wright]

Is the attached geo chart correct for the 2011 Hillbornes? I'm strongly 
considering this for my partner who's 5'3".

Thanks!
Erik in Philly

On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 12:08:42 PM UTC-4, Denise Granger wrote:
>
> 650b wheel size and 48cm frameset 
>
> > On Oct 1, 2018, at 8:48 AM, DarinM > 
> wrote: 
> > 
> > Frame and wheel size? 
> > 
> > Darin 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
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original_geometry.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document

[RBW] 26er vs 29er

[Erik Wright]

Alright y'all, help me work out this inner quandary I've had over getting a 
new bike or not (to replace one in my stable). The demo Hunqs shown on the 
blug are really making my insides jump at the thought of a 29er Hunq for 
offroad riding/bikepacking.

I have 4 bikes, and I've tried specializing each (to an extent) because in 
essence 3 of them are all-rounder type frames. I've turned one of them, a 
26er XO-1 clone, into my off-road tourer. 2.1" knobbies for trails, RTP for 
roads/gravel, frame bag, front panniers, Swift saddle bag, On-One Mary bars 
+ Ergon grips, the whole getup. Recently I've been dabbling into resources 
around 27.5 and 29er bikes for bikepacking (i.e. Surly Bridge Club and 
Hunq), feeling that my 26er might not be the best choice nowadays in 
today's landscape of bike options, falling short in the jack-of-all-trades 
master-of-none kind of way.

What I keep telling myself is the old adage that really, any bike will do 
the trick (for the most part), and that my 26er XO-1 clone is a fine bike 
for off-road touring. Plus, people rode (and ride) 26" MTBs for a lng 
time and all was good. I don't ride offroad *that* much, but nowadways when 
I plan multi-day trips they're geared toward mixed terrain**. I don't doubt 
that a jump from my XO-1 clone to a Hunq would in itself make a huge 
difference in ride quality, but in terms of wheel size, would swapping to a 
29er really make that big a difference?

Thank you for your insight!

Erik in Philly

**Right now I'm in the midst of planning to ride a portion of the Idaho Hot 
Springs MTB route in September.

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[RBW] Re: Hidden Gift of Riding a Bike

[Erik Wright]

Thank you, Patrick. This post is an interesting and unexpected marriage of 
my BOB/RBW life and my work life. I work for a Philly-based nonprofit 
called Bike & Build, and we organize cross-country and regional bike trips 
for young adults that impact the affordable housing cause by 
raising+granting funds and volunteering on build sites on the way across 
the US. Throughout the trip, riders learn about the many facets of the 
affordable housing issue in the US and are exposed to different ways the 
issue is addressed. I like your direct solution, Patrick! Just wanted to 
throw this out there as another way that biking and affordable housing / 
solutions to homelessness are connected!

I never thought these two parts of my life would touch because the bikes we 
ride are very un-BOB/RBW, but here we are.

Erik in Philly (except right now in VA starting a cross country trip!)

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[RBW] Grant and RBW staff's involvement in this group

[Erik Wright]

I've been perusing this group for about a year now, and can I just say that 
it's really cool and special to have Grant et al so involved here? I was 
recently keeping a close eye on the hotly developing "Lower price Atlantis" 
thread and every time I saw that Grant replied I just thought to myself, 
"oh wow, neat."

Of course you can always call the shop and chat with RBW staff one-on-one, 
but I think this forum is a different kind of direct line to the people 
calling the shots, and seeing their involvement provides a unique level of 
connection that I think is hard to find elsewhere.

Overall, pretty cool.

Erik in Philly

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[RBW] Re: Microsoft Thumbies Inside Mount

[Erik Wright]

I just got a pair of these for a new build with flat bars but will probably 
use them in the future on a build like this. In order to mount them on the 
inside, do you have to swap shifters and use the front ratchet shifter for 
the rear and the rear indexed/friction for the front?

On Monday, November 6, 2017 at 10:10:14 PM UTC-5, Tim O. (Portland, OR) 
wrote:
>
> Sweet! I just posted a WTB post. Thanks fo sharing, y'all! 

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[RBW] MUSA shorts question

[Erik Wright]

I just did the same thing. Same waist, bought the same size. They're a little 
tighter than I anticipated but I feel like I can get used to them. If I can't, 
there are two options: wear them without the buckle clipped so they're just 
elastic waisted (works great), or alter the elastic stops for the buckle to 
give it some more room to flex. The second one probably doesn't make much sense 
without looking at the shorts.

I'd say with a 30-31" waist you should be okay if you can tolerate a slightly 
snug waistband.

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