[RBW] Unexpected Hits on through the knothole

2011-02-26 Thread JoelMatthews
I am a big fan of all save the Moustache Bars.  I know and fully
respect many of you love the MBs.  I could never get comfortable with
them.

The Albatross Bars and Splats on the other hand!

Silver shifters are probably as good as if not better than Simplex
Retrofriction if not quite as cool looking.

I have the cook set and love it.

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[RBW] Re: On shipping bike parts to our two finest states

2011-02-20 Thread JoelMatthews
 Which why they wouldn't in Chicago but will in St Louis is confusing.
 Being able to track the shipment and such has worked well.

UPS will deliver to the door in Chicago.  But they do so only Monday
through Friday and between around 8:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. Monday in my
neighborhood.  UPS will not leave packages unless someone is there to
open the door and sign for them.  Meaning I have to take the day off.
As much as I love (not!) hanging around the apartment all day for UPS
to show up, my work prefers my being there.

On Feb 20, 9:41 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 I for one have had great success with UPS.  They deliver to my door.  Which
 why they wouldn't in Chicago but will in St Louis is confusing.
 Being able to track the shipment and such has worked well.  

  I'm not really all that Pro or Con UPS just figured they are are better in
 my opinion than the basing they seem to be taking on this thread.

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: On shipping bike parts to our two finest states

2011-02-19 Thread JoelMatthews
In Chicago at least, UPS is the third choice as they do not have
evening, weekend delivery options and their inconveniently located
facility is open only during weekday business hours.

FedEx Home Delivery offers both (at a cost, but still).  USPS of
course has a key to get into condo buildings even if there is no door
person.  For delivery with signature requirements, there is a post
office facility for every zip code with Saturday hours.

Sure, I can route UPS deliveries to work.  But being a bike only
commuter, there are limits to the size of package I can receive
there.  And frankly, I prefer not having to use company mail room
personnel to receive my purchases.  With on line shopping rapidly
becoming the largest retail sector, I hope UPS catches up with working
peoples' needs.

On Feb 19, 12:20 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Grant
 For us east-coasters, would it be possible to at least offer the
 option of USPS?
 It's not a matter of cost as much as speed, at least for me, though it
 seems like anything I order costs $15 to ship, regardless, and paying
 for express shipping us a deal-killer.
 The real killer us that UPS is seven full days from CA to CT. That
 means if I decide I want or need something on a weekend and order it
 online, it ships that Monday but I don't even receive it in time for
 the next weekend, as it arrives the Monday after the Monday it ships.
 USPS is usually about 3 days coast to coast for reasonable size
 things.
 Just a thought. I'd like to buy more from Riv but I'm an instant
 gratification kind of guy!
 Pete
 On Feb 18, 7:00 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:



  UPS charges us $8.08 for under-a-pound boxes to major metropolitan
  areas in California. If you live in a van down by the river, it costs
  (us) more. A typical box weight here is 5 pounds. To the midwest, it
  costs (us) about $11. Alaska and Hawaii cost more, for sure.

  I wish we could get around UPS, but the other companies (FedX, USPS)
  either charge more or don't have tracking. Plus, the shippers are now
  super close buddies with Barry, our UPS guy, and even if FEDX got
  cheaper, it would take quite the Venezuelan FedX account manageress to
  get Robert and Vaughn to voluntarily, willingly, switch from UPS. It's
  not impossible, but unlikely.

  Our flat rate of $8 is below our cost, but in my head I'm still a 13-
  year old ordering from L.L. Bean and paying nothing. Still, we may
  have to raise rates. The thing of it is, we don't sell anything ending
  in a 9, and that's what a dollar increase would be. Another dollar,
  and it's into the double-digits, which seems a lot higher. Eight is
  magic here, for now.
  G

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[RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-18 Thread JoelMatthews
 Why start at 121 spacing and not 120?

Wondered that myself.  Probably has something to do with the unique
design requirements.  There should not be any problems with fitting a
121 hub on a 120 bike anyway.

I certainly have no need for these hubs at the moment.  They are
fascinating and I am somewhat tempted to buy one just to fool with
it.  (and have no doubt - if you ever watched me working on my bikes
you would call it fooling!)

On Feb 17, 8:38 pm, JL subfas...@gmail.com wrote:
 Why start at 121 spacing and not 120?

 If 130 and 135 are options then it isn't a question of that extra mm
 used to get to 126mm from 125.

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[RBW] Re: Everything's Perfect....I'ma touchin NOTHIN!

2011-02-18 Thread JoelMatthews
 Axion #1

 If you don't know how to put something back together, don't take it apart.

An axiom I am fundamentally unable to follow ;)

On Feb 17, 8:20 pm, jim phillips thefamil...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Oh, one other thing I meant to say. I have a set of axioms I have come upon 
 regarding this topic.

 Axion #1

 If you don't know how to put something back together, don't take it apart.

 best,

 JimP

 From: orthie...@gmail.com
 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 20:16:49 -0600
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Everything's PerfectI'ma touchin NOTHIN!
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 For how long will you be able to refrain from touching something on this 
 bike? :-)
 Zen on!!!
 René

 Sent from my iPhone 4

 On Feb 17, 2011, at 8:01 PM, jim phillips thefamil...@hotmail.com wrote:

 All right!!
 Congratulations!

 best,

 Jim





  Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 17:05:29 -0800
  Subject: [RBW] Everything's PerfectI'ma touchin NOTHIN!
  From: angusle...@sbcglobal.net
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  My name is Angus and I am a tinkerer.

  I can't leave well enough alone.

  I'm constantly trying to make everything better (although it doesn't
  always work out that way).

  Nothing is perfect...everything always needs improving.

  Many people may think this is sad...but I've come to accept it.  I'm
  kinda happy with it actually.

  Last weekend I took the 13 year old All-Rounder for a ride (the
  Albatross bar equipped All-Rounder is my stiff back bike)

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/16951387@N08/4739416729/

  Something clicked...everything worked well: brakes, shifting,
  handling...everything.  I realized I haven't had to fiddle with
  anything on this bike in months; nothing felt funny, shifters seemed
  happy with the derailleurs, brakes were easy to use, modulated well,
  didn't squeal and stayed centered, position was great, nothing made
  funny noises

  WHOA!  This hasn't happened before.

  Everything's Perfect...I'ma touching NOTHIN!

  Angus Who dreams of one day getting his other bicycles to this level
  of zen like harmony

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[RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-17 Thread JoelMatthews
 No problem. I presume you're a lightweight as I broken 3 rear axles,
 including 2 Campy and 1 wheel mfg, in about a 2 year period when I
 decided to switch to cassette rear hub. That was back in 1997 and I
 haven't broken an axle yet. May be it was the C-Record rear hub
 design, bad luck with axles or may be my fat butt. Whatever the
 reason, in the last 12+ years, I've used DA and Campy rear hubs and
 NEVER had a problem.

While adult male weights have gone up over the past 40 years, they
have not gone up to the point where one can say that freewheel axles
are always at risk.

That said, C-Record FW were notorius for their weak axles.  Paul is
not Campagnolo.

All things being equal, cassettes should be the first choice for a new
frame.  The Jono is by design for people either restoring an old frame
of making a new wheel for an old frame they do not want to alter to
fit wider cassette hubs.  Time will tell, but given my experience with
other Paul products, I expect the Jono will fill this role admirably.

On Feb 17, 10:46 am, bfd bfd...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Feb 15, 6:36 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:  
 Interesting. Is that an oversized axle? If not, does anyone know how
   he addresses the broken axle issue with freewheel hubs.
   Good Luck!

  Yeah thanks.  Cause everyone knows in the 40 years or so that
  freewheel hubs were the default cyclists couldn't go half a mile with
  a broken axle.  Sheesh!

 No problem. I presume you're a lightweight as I broken 3 rear axles,
 including 2 Campy and 1 wheel mfg, in about a 2 year period when I
 decided to switch to cassette rear hub. That was back in 1997 and I
 haven't broken an axle yet. May be it was the C-Record rear hub
 design, bad luck with axles or may be my fat butt. Whatever the
 reason, in the last 12+ years, I've used DA and Campy rear hubs and
 NEVER had a problem. Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Great Quote

2011-02-16 Thread JoelMatthews
 Commuted to work at midnight. Talk about a pleasant stress free ride.
 No cars on the road, didn't have to worry about traffic lights just me
 and my thoughts.

Yeah.  Night riding is such a delight.

On Feb 16, 10:33 am, grrlyrida grrlyr...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks for the quote. It's so appropriate to my life right now.

 Commuted to work at midnight. Talk about a pleasant stress free ride.
 No cars on the road, didn't have to worry about traffic lights just me
 and my thoughts. Even when it started to rain it didn't bother me.
 This is coming from an individual who hates driving in the rain.
 Cycling to work is the best part of the work day for me.

 Putting it on my iphone signature now.



  On Tue, Feb 15, 2011 at 5:14 PM, CCX chive...@gmail.com wrote:
   When the spirits are low, when the day appears dark, when work
   becomes monotonous, when hope hardly seems worth having, just mount a
   bicycle and go out for a spin down the road, without thought on
   anything but the ride you are taking.  Sherlock Holmes, 1896

   --

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-15 Thread JoelMatthews
 Oh, and I'd never heard of that approach being implemented. But I've always 
 felt I'd be happy with 6 speeds, if they I dexed well with quality available 
 shifters.

Agree.  6 speeds is plenty for most Illinois riding.

On Feb 14, 9:57 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Oh, and I'd never heard of that approach being implemented. But I've always 
 felt I'd be happy with 6 speeds, if they I dexed well with quality available 
 shifters. Alas, I fear that any solution involving 6/9-speed-cassette usage 
 is even more esoteric than an IRD freewheel. And, in the end, I think my next 
 step, if I need to take one, is to drop the need for dishlessness and get a 
 Phil cassette wheel.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

 On Feb 14, 2011, at 9:06 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:



  Thomas,
  Out of curiosity, where are you riding that it is so cold?  If it is
  that cold and wet you may or may not have problems with diferent free
  hubs freezing up as well, it can and has happened.  Some manufacturers
  go as far as selling their own greases / oils partially for these
  reasons.  If money were not the object, and wheel strentght is
  paramount, you could look into some of the mountain bike single speed
  hubs: King, Hope and DT all have single speed free hubs that will let
  you run the back 6 cogs of a 9sp casette.  These hubs all can be built
  up dishless, and will index as well since it is a casette.  Each has
  some pros and cons, like stee vs Al freehub bodies, color options or
  disc brake hole to ignore, but worth a look.  If I burn out on
  freewheels that is the direction I am heading.

  Rob

  On Feb 14, 6:20 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
  wrote:
  That strength-comparison is based on the axle being the weak component in 
  the hub. With Phil hubs (and some others too, I'd guess) the axle is so 
  over-built that even in the case of the freewheel the axle simply isn't 
  likely to fail, even under the likes of me!

  So the idea is that uneven spoke tension rises to the top of the pile of 
  compromises one would like to mitigate/eliminate in the built wheel. So 
  reduced dish, as available with an IRD-style Phil FW hub when compared to 
  a Phil cassette hub, becomes a more valuable component of the wheel than a 
  strengthened axle.

  And yes, I have bent a Shimano axle and ruined a Deore hub that way. One 
  of my failed wheels.

  Yours,
  Thomas Lynn Skean

  On Feb 14, 2011, at 7:57 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
  point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
  is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
  fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?

  That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
  FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
  thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
  those new fangled thangs.

  On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean

  thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

  Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
  all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
  IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
  all else equal.

  Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
  point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
  is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
  fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
  skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
  (Om )

  As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
  fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
  not-fully-tightened spacer.

  Patrick no dish, no worries Moore

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[RBW] Re: Computers? No computers?

2011-02-15 Thread JoelMatthews
 I like knowing the time of day

My Bell  Ross watch does an exemplary job with this.

 mileage, speed

I have never used a bike specific computer.  Over the years I have
become pretty good at reckoning mileage and speed based on
experience.  The few times I have ridden with people who have
computers they have verified I am pretty close.

 It also helps me navigate a bit, and I keep a log of rides and new routes.

As most of us now have smart phones anyway, I recommend looking at
some of the good mapping programs.  Apple and Android have more than
one available.  I don't bother getting set up for commuting or day
rides.  For touring, smart phone maps come in handy.

On Feb 15, 10:13 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Computers.  I like knowing the time of day, mileage, speed, etc.  It
 also helps me navigate a bit, and I keep a log of rides and new
 routes.

 On Feb 15, 10:49 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:



  When I started randonneuring 4 years ago I got a wireless Cateye after
  not using a computer for years. After completing my 2009 brevet series
  I took it off. I rode my 2010 brevet series without a computer and was
  fine. I find the computer distracting and I'm just not interested in
  the information.

  --mike- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Computers? No computers?

2011-02-15 Thread JoelMatthews
 i tried to use my iphone for this, but i found it bulky and awkward
 for running and i really wanted HRM integration.

On the bike I put my smart phone in the handlebar bag.

On Feb 15, 10:47 am, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 I know it's counter to the RBW spirit, but i do carry a GPS watch.  I
 don't have a bike computer bolted on, but the GPS watch i use (garmin
 forerunner 305) is a running watch, but it also works on the bike
 (since it's GPS based and not pedometer).  It talks to my HRM (more
 for health then for training), syncs to my computer for logging.  And
 i can keep it in my bag if i don't want to stare at it on the
 handlebar.

 but i'm a data nut, but more just for logging and journaling, just
 curious about where i've been or overall times etc, not to improve my
 times or for training.

 i tried to use my iphone for this, but i found it bulky and awkward
 for running and i really wanted HRM integration.

 On Feb 15, 11:33 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   I like knowing the time of day

  My Bell  Ross watch does an exemplary job with this.

   mileage, speed

  I have never used a bike specific computer.  Over the years I have
  become pretty good at reckoning mileage and speed based on
  experience.  The few times I have ridden with people who have
  computers they have verified I am pretty close.

   It also helps me navigate a bit, and I keep a log of rides and new routes.

  As most of us now have smart phones anyway, I recommend looking at
  some of the good mapping programs.  Apple and Android have more than
  one available.  I don't bother getting set up for commuting or day
  rides.  For touring, smart phone maps come in handy.

  On Feb 15, 10:13 am, stevep33 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

   Computers.  I like knowing the time of day, mileage, speed, etc.  It
   also helps me navigate a bit, and I keep a log of rides and new
   routes.

   On Feb 15, 10:49 am, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

When I started randonneuring 4 years ago I got a wireless Cateye after
not using a computer for years. After completing my 2009 brevet series
I took it off. I rode my 2010 brevet series without a computer and was
fine. I find the computer distracting and I'm just not interested in
the information.

--mike- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-15 Thread JoelMatthews
 Interesting. Is that an oversized axle? If not, does anyone know how
 he addresses the broken axle issue with freewheel hubs.
 Good Luck!

Yeah thanks.  Cause everyone knows in the 40 years or so that
freewheel hubs were the default cyclists couldn't go half a mile with
a broken axle.  Sheesh!

On Feb 15, 6:00 pm, bfd bfd...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Feb 15, 3:30 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote: Has anyone 
 seen the new Paul Jono freewheel hub?  MUSA and pretty
  clever and not even that pricey.http://www.paulcomp.com/jonohub.html

  With IRD making Freewheels again it is a workable alternate to the
  10-11 speed world.
  I just love the new/old technology!

 Interesting. Is that an oversized axle? If not, does anyone know how
 he addresses the broken axle issue with freewheel hubs.
 Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub

2011-02-15 Thread JoelMatthews
These would have come in handy on my Raleigh Supercourse restoration
last summer.  The hubs I planned to use were from a Supercourse made
the same year as the frame I was working.  Raleigh being Raleigh, the
project frame chain stays were too narrow.  I had to take the frame to
the LBS and cold spread it.  It would have been a lot more fun
shrinking the hub.

On Feb 15, 5:30 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone seen the new Paul Jono freewheel hub?  MUSA and pretty
 clever and not even that pricey.http://www.paulcomp.com/jonohub.html

 With IRD making Freewheels again it is a workable alternate to the
 10-11 speed world.
 I just love the new/old technology!

 ~Mike

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Guess I ned to get out more as I had no idea there were IRD freewheel
specific hubs.  Seems counterintuitive to me.

All my multigear bikes have freewheels as I use vintage hubs.  While I
have a pretty good store of NOS freewheels, I was happy to see IRD
coming out with a new line of freewheels, as it at once assured supply
and took pressure off the price of NOS freewheels.  Riding on vintage
hubs is not for everyone.  There are plenty of us out there, however.
Not surprisingly really, as a well maintained hub can last many years.

Much as I like my vintage freewheel hubs, the need for a new freewheel
hubs escapes me.  Cassette freewheels are in fact easier to use and
maintain.  Seems to me those buying new but not wanting 10 or 11 cogs
in the back would be better served looking for nos 7 - 9 cog cassettes
to put on a modern cassett hub than buying an all new freewheel set
up.

On Feb 14, 7:51 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
 The difference between the touring and IRD as far as I know is in the
 spacers or endcaps, this was published somewhere in the iBOB archives
 in the last two years.  As for the specs from phil, they are in a slow
 process of fixing their published data, call them and they are great
 on the phone.  The threading is the same, english standard.  If you
 freewheel is truly binding, that is weird.  is it rubbing anywhere,
 back of the freewheel against the hub flange?  or at the stays?  As
 for break in there should not need to be much, unsless you again have
 frozen grease problems.

 Rob

 On Feb 13, 11:50 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:



  Hi.

  It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with the 
  IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets 
  being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe 
  there are other differences as well.

  In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when I 
  put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not coast freely at 
  all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't think 
  that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar issues 
  when first installed.

  Yours,
  Thomas Lynn Skean

  On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:

   Phil Wood IRD hub?

   I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.

   On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com 
   wrote:
   I have no experience at all with IRD.

   On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
   bike I have a Suntour Winner.

   Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.

   On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
   wrote:
Hello, all!

Does anyone have any experience using the Shimanopore freewheel on a
Phil Wood IRD 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
using the Shimanopore freewheel with a normal (i.e. non-IRD) 7-
speed freewheel hub?

I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
(non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
starting to freeze (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.

It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
*really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
related.

If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.

Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
 I've been informed by a person with direct experience (to say the least) that 
 I could expect a 6-speed Suntour Winner or Winner Pro or a 7-speed Suntour 
 Winner compact freewheel to work on my wheel.

I second the advice if this works for you.  I have Winner Pros and am
very happy with them.

On Feb 14, 1:11 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Hi!

 Well... okay.

 It's just that the Shimano freewheel I purchased from RBW doesn't work on my 
 wheel, which has a hub that is nominally for an IRD freewheel.

 There was plenty of room between the stay and the small cog. I didn't 
 cross-thread it or anything. It screwed on (and off, thank goodness) cleanly. 
 It just turned clunkily under any power. And the chain rested on the chain 
 stay when coasting. It wasn't completely frozen. But obviously it wasn't 
 functioning properly. And since all I did was screw it on, I don't think 
 there's anything else I could have done that would make it function properly.

 I guess there are many ways in which Shimano and IRD are substitutes for one 
 another. Just not on my wheel.

 I'm having deja vu... I once posted about my Sugino XD2 crank being 
 incompatible with my 107mm Velo-Orange bottom bracket (which I measured, just 
 to be sure). The several still-believed-by-me testimonials about using those 
 two products together didn't change the fact that if you tightened *my* crank 
 onto *my* VO BB's taper so that it was even approaching tight (and way less 
 than the spec'd torque), the crank would be in contact with the bottom 
 bracket's body. They were incompatible.

 I've been informed by a person with direct experience (to say the least) that 
 I could expect a 6-speed Suntour Winner or Winner Pro or a 7-speed Suntour 
 Winner compact freewheel to work on my wheel. Expensive. But not 
 unthinkable if it is spaced such that it indexes well. I suspect it is. I 
 wouldn't be happy getting just one; I'd need a warm backup.

 But the maintenance path isn't clear to me. It seems I could maintain the 
 ratchet mechanism on one to last many thousands of miles (perhaps more miles 
 than I have in me... I'm riding about 100 miles/week). But wouldn't I expect 
 to need to replace at least some cogs every few thousand or so? If so, I'd 
 have to collect some cogs up front and make sure I can do that myself as 
 well. I don't know; I don't have any long-term experiences with freewheels in 
 general, let alone high-end ones.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean



 - omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:
  IRD freewheels are just Shimano-compatible freewheels, man. Nothing special.
  You dont need to use IRD...I wouldnt.

  On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 2:18 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean 
  thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

   Oh, and I should note that this IRD specificity is noted in the hub
   dimensions document on Phil Wood's site. Where, interestingly, it
   does *not* list the dimensions for the IRD-intended hubs.

   I should also add that I suspect that this IRD difference is actually
   a modern usage by IRD of a standard which has been around for some
   time, the compact freewheel. Can anyone confirm/deny/clarify?

   Insomniacally yours,
   Thomas Lynn Skean

   On Feb 14, 1:50 am, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
   wrote:
Hi.

It seems that Phil Wood has created a hub specifically to be used with
   the IRD freewheel. I think it has to do with the IRD freewheel's sprockets
   being spaced more closely than, say, the Shimano freewheel's. Or maybe 
   there
   are other differences as well.

In any case, there is some significant difference in something. For when
   I put the RBW-sold Shimano freewheel on my hub, it does not coast freely
   at all. Now, maybe there's supposed to be a break-in period. But I don't
   think that's what this is. The IRD freewheels I've used had no similar
   issues when first installed.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Feb 13, 2011, at 6:31 PM, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:

 Phil Wood IRD hub?

 I think you maybe confused. IRD is a company or brand.

 On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 5:54 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com
   wrote:
 I have no experience at all with IRD.

 On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
 bike I have a Suntour Winner.

 Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.

 On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
 wrote:
  Hello, all!

  Does anyone have any experience using the Shimanopore freewheel on
   a
  Phil Wood IRD 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any
   experience
  using the Shimanopore freewheel with a normal (i.e. non-IRD) 
  7-
  speed freewheel hub?

  I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
  first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
  fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one

[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
With all the vintage hubs in my collection, I have never bothered
looking at Riv's hubs page.

I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
that size.

The PW freewheel products page was not loading for me just now, but it
appears from the main hub page that PW does make IRD specific
freewheels from 120 up.  I can understand a rider not wanting to
spread the chainstays going with a PW and freewheel in that
situation.  However, if the IRD are not reliable, spreading chain
stays is no big deal and would be my preference, unless the frame is a
vintage Herse or something (and in that case, you may as well pop for
a MaxiCar).

On Feb 14, 2:50 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 Here's an email from a few months ago, i believe it's a slight spacing
 optimization on the IRD phil wood hubs that make them special, but
 that you can use regular free-wheels as well.

 -
 The whole IRD/Riv FW thing confuses everyone I've talked to about it.
 The guys at PW were kind enough to explain the IRD specific hub
 design
 to me last year when I was deciding on hubs for another set of
 wheels.
    Garth,
              OK I spoke with our engineer for a little more feedback
 on this IRD thing because
              it is basically a little confusing to me a well, here's
 the scoop. These IRD hubs were
              a concept dreamed up by Rivendell which took our
 standard
 freewheel hubs and
              moved the hub shell over to the drive side by about 2mm
 for the IRD freewheels
              which is supposed to help off set the wheel dishing
 (Rivendell likes to build wheels
              with a little dish as possible) as well as the chain
 line
 when an IRD freewheel is used.
              When Rivendell commissioned these IRD hubs they asked
 that they be an Rivy exclusive
              and we agreed to this for one year. After the year had
 expired (this year) our engineer and
              General Manager thought it would be a good idea to offer
 the hubs as part of our product line
              for riders who may want to have minimal dishing when
 using an IRD.
              So long story short the IRD freewheels can in deed be
 used with either one of our freewheel
              hubs it just depends on how concerned you are about
 eliminating some of the wheel dish.
               Now you know as much as I do about the reasoning behind
 the IRD option and I
               hope it clears things up a little.
                Thank You,
                        Mark
          Phil Wood  Co. 
 In the end, I decided not to get the IRD FW hubs from PW, just the
 same regular touring hubs I've been using.
 You can still use any brand of FW with the IRD/Riv hub, it will just
 be closer to the chainstay how close depends on your frame.
 You can use an IRD FW with any english threaded FW hub.
 BTW, I've been hearing more reports of IRD failures, despite the
 later
 supposedly improved models. There's supposed to be a new batch this
 summer. Yes . those that got a good one say what's the problem,
 mine's been fine ? For those that didn't  it rots. I've never
 heard of any FW having so many problems as the IRD ones. If you need
 a
 13-28 and can live with the awful black Shimano 28 cog, their FW's
 are
 still good.

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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
real life.  Very handsome critters.

Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.

On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
 btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
 there.
 There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society

 http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html

 You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
 come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the show sheep
 shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.

 Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:

 Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
 pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
 opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!

 Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
 a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
 like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.

 Army type: We're going with this, as is.

 Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
 Close enough!

 G

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
 In spite of that appeal, I remain open to the idea that all of my old wheel 
 problems would have been basically solved with a 36-hole Phil Wood/Synergy 
 O/C cassette wheel (I have and sometimes use two XT/Synergy O/C wheels, 
 having had only minor and probably-solved issues) or a 40-hole Phil Wood/Dyad 
 cassette wheel. In use I prefer the Dyad rim; it's easier to mount the tires 
 I use. And one person-who-knows said the 40-spoke wheel would be stronger, 
 despite the additional dish (there's no O/C Dyad and there's no 40-hole O/C 
 Synergy).

Kind of hard to pick between those rims!

I have 2 sets of 700 wheels.  One set are 40h Dyads built around
MaxiCar hubs.  The other are 36h Synergy (o/c rear) built around some
vintage Campagnolo hubs Peter Weigle modified.  (If this weather holds
I will have a link to some pictures of those wheels and the bike they
roll this weekend.)  Obviously both hubs are freewheel.

On Feb 14, 5:46 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Hi!

 - JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  I still do not understand the desire to buy a new 135 freewheel hub.
  PW along with many other companies make perfectly fine casette hubs in
  that size.

 Wheel strength.

 Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
 implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style FW 
 hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal. 
 They didn't say you need this wheel... they didn't say only it will 
 work... they basically said it would be non-trivially stronger. I even now 
 have zero reason to doubt those folks or that assertion in particular. My own 
 history of consistently ruining wheels led me to think I wanted all the 
 non-trivial strength enhancement I could tolerate (didn't want a 48-spoke 
 wheel, didn't want a black rim). In the face of that history, those opinions, 
 *and* the fact that choosing a cassette wheel that would be comparably strong 
 meant an extra $200 right from the start... why *wouldn't* I desire a new 135 
 freewheel hub? The money itself wasn't a problem. But compromising the 
 wheel's strength *and* paying real money to do it still seems silly.

 In hindsight, my desire (no matter how I came to have it) may have led me to 
 a poor choice. Freewheel issues certainly threaten my use of my current wheel 
 as anything other than a backup. It won't take too many more instances of a 
 surprise failure-to-catch as I enter traffic to make me *not* use that wheel 
 regularly. That'd be a shame... I've grown enamored of the elegance of a 
 low-dish wheel, of the isolation of the most important bearings on the bike 
 from the least important bearings on the bike, and of the notional simplicity 
 of servicing of a Phil Wood freewheel hub (haven't actually had to service it 
 yet). As well as the proven strength of the wheel, be it needed or not.

 In spite of that appeal, I remain open to the idea that all of my old wheel 
 problems would have been basically solved with a 36-hole Phil Wood/Synergy 
 O/C cassette wheel (I have and sometimes use two XT/Synergy O/C wheels, 
 having had only minor and probably-solved issues) or a 40-hole Phil Wood/Dyad 
 cassette wheel. In use I prefer the Dyad rim; it's easier to mount the tires 
 I use. And one person-who-knows said the 40-spoke wheel would be stronger, 
 despite the additional dish (there's no O/C Dyad and there's no 40-hole O/C 
 Synergy).

 In any case, I haven't given up on using the freewheel-based wheel yet. But 
 I'll decide over the next few months, since I would like to pick a 
 sustainable system and have it in place before I seriously pursue my next 
 Rivendell, which will probably be next year. At this point, a second 60cm 
 double-top-tube Hillborne is the front-runner. That bike just plain fits. 
 62cm Hunqapillar and 60cm Bombadil are still in the running, though.

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?

That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
those new fangled thangs.

On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean

 thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

  Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted all 
  implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood IRD-style 
  FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, all else equal.

 Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
 point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
 is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
 fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
 skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
 (Om )

 As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
 fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
 not-fully-tightened spacer.

 Patrick no dish, no worries Moore

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[RBW] Re: Sweater wool sheep breed revealed

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Well, it has a nice ring to it.  Not sure if they are the fastest
sheep in the world.  At least not when their wool is fully grown out
as the one in Grant's link.

On Feb 14, 6:54 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Will the 650B cantilever braked Roadeo model be called the
 Cheviot ?

 On Feb 14, 3:02 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  Too cool Grant!  Thank you for the follow up.  I've seen Chevoit in
  real life.  Very handsome critters.

  Can't wait to add to my collection of cardigans.

  On Feb 14, 4:56 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:

   It's the Cheviot, a hardy breed that lives in the hilly border area
   btw England and Scotland...originally, at least, and lots are still
   there.
   There is a Cheviot Society,and even an American Cheviot Sheep Society

  http://www.cheviotsheep.org/index.html

   You can find all kinds of Cheviot images on the web. Rest assured ours
   come from the best-looking, most rugged ones---not the show sheep
   shown shorn just so. I stipulate that.

   Sweater news, not intending to stir a pot:

   Vest: the one shown was izzactly like the first one (except for the
   pocket), but in any case we're shrinking the shoulders a bit and
   opening up the armhole. Twill be perf!

   Rollnecker: Might not do it, although if the sample we have here were
   a large or xl, we'd definitely not do it, because I'd have mine... I
   like the style a lot, but my radar says it won't be popular.

   Army type: We're going with this, as is.

   Cardigan: Adding a rib to the lower hem. Basically, same as before.
   Close enough!

   G

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[RBW] Re: Interesting marketing strategy

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Very annoying sales technique.  Perhaps they figure for every 99
people they annoy who come looking for a Rivendell but find something
else they will get 1 person interested enough to think about bidding.
Even if I wanted the product I would not bid on a bait and switch
auction.

On Feb 14, 7:48 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I saw this listing on ebay:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/1983-TREK-520-LUGGED-FRAME-AND-FORK-RIVENDELL-GEO...

 Somebody selling a 1983 Trek 520.  He puts Rivendell in the title,
 presumably to attract potential buyers.  That in itself is
 interesting, that a tiny sliver company like Riv is so influential
 that it's used a hook to sell a Trek (or a Raleigh, or a Specialized,
 as we've all seen repeatedly).  This seller goes one step further with
 the text:

 DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY ON A RIVENDELL FRAME. BUILD THIS LOW BB FRAME
 TO YOUR OWN SPECS !

 If you tried to attract a Riv-fancier with the title, is it smart to
 then bash Riv calling it a waste?  Clearly the seller meant something
 more along the lines of my frame is just as good as a Rivendell, only
 cheaper and older, but I'm not sure he said what he meant.  Does it
 amuse you how people sell their non-Rivendell stuff as Rivendell-ish?
 Is there another bicycle business in the WORLD that is both smaller
 and yet more influential than Rivendell?

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-14 Thread JoelMatthews
 Cassette hub -- less likely to break an axle
 Dishless wheel -- less likely to break a spoke

One of the reasons MaxiCar hubs are built around solid axles and I
built the Campy hubs around solid E.A.I. axles.

On Feb 14, 8:05 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 All other things being equal, a cassette hub offers a far stronger
 axle, because the axle is supported in more places and closer to the
 frame dropouts.  Bent or broken axles are essentially non-existent on
 even the cheapest cassette hubs.  Among freewheel hubs, I know of few
 that are stronger than Phil.  The number of people in the world that
 can bend or break the axle on a Phil FW hub is small.

 All other things being equal a dishless wheel offers more equal spoke
 tension left vs right.  That's one of the reasons 130 and 135
 developed and why 145 and 160 are on tandems (and there are other
 reasons).

 Cassette hub -- less likely to break an axle
 Dishless wheel -- less likely to break a spoke

 On Feb 14, 5:57 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
   point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
   is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
   fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub?

  That is what I have heard as well.  Obviously I have no problem with
  FW hubs - I've never even owned a set of cassette hubs - but always
  thought maybe I was giving up some strength to the people riding on
  those new fangled thangs.

  On Feb 14, 5:59 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

   On Mon, Feb 14, 2011 at 4:46 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean

   thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:

Generally, the 3-people-who-actually-know-these-things that I contacted 
all implied or stated outright that a wheel built around a Phil Wood 
IRD-style FW hub would be stronger than one built with a cassette hub, 
all else equal.

   Can you (or someone else) explain why this is so? I thought the whole
   point of the cassette hub design was greater strength because the axle
   is supported by bearings further out to the right. So what makes this
   fw hub stronger even than the Phil fw hub? I must admit that I am
   skeptical of this 3-person claim, but I am open to enlightenment.
   (Om )

   As to Phil track hubs, I learned today that the bearings on my 2Xf
   fixed Phil are fine after almost 11K miles: the roughness was the
   not-fully-tightened spacer.

   Patrick no dish, no worries Moore

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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood IRD FW hub and/or Shimano freewheel experiences?

2011-02-13 Thread JoelMatthews
I have no experience at all with IRD.

On my camper bike I use a Shimano Megarange FW.  On my more sporting
bike I have a Suntour Winner.

Picked up both from the eBay NOS store.  No problems with either.

On Feb 13, 4:45 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
 Hello, all!

 Does anyone have any experience using the Shimanopore freewheel on a
 Phil Wood IRD 7-speed freewheel hub? Does anyone have any experience
 using the Shimanopore freewheel with a normal (i.e. non-IRD) 7-
 speed freewheel hub?

 I've had to replace three IRD 7-speed freewheels in 7 months. The
 first one (13-28) lasted a couple thousand miles but then started to
 fail to catch within a reasonable amount of rotation. The next one
 (non-mega 13-32) didn't work at all; the small cog was broken. The
 next one (non-mega 13-32) lasted only a few hundred miles before
 starting to freeze (introducing top-of-the-stay slack) and then,
 within a week or so, began to fail to catch like the first one.

 It had just gotten cold when the first one failed. It has just been
 *really* cold when the third one failed. I don't know if that's
 related.

 If these freewheels typically last only a couple thousand mikes, I'll
 be disappointed but I'll deal. If there's an alternative freewheel
 like the Shimano I'll use those. If fteewheels are just this
 inconsistent and I can't find an alternative freewheel arrangement,
 I'll switch to a cassette system ASAP and move on.

 Anybody have any insights / info / suggestions?

 Yours,
 Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: In case you cannot find a Power Grip the right color ...

2011-02-11 Thread JoelMatthews
Mike:

The problem with the site may have to do with your browser.  I had
trouble getting it to work on Explorer, but worked fine on Safari.

I have the new Power Grip Riv is selling.  I think the materila is
leatherette, but am not sure.  Power Grips seem sturdy, but are not
easily adjusted.  From the Moletta demo, it appears these new ones may
be easier to adjust.  If so, this is exactly what I want, as I wear
different shoes depending on when and where I am riding.

On Feb 11, 3:28 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 Just put in for a set of White Industries pedals and I'm trying to get
 a pair of these Molletta straps to go with them, but the slick hipster
 webdesign is unspeakably frustrating. I can't find any type of
 checkout button on the site, and so their inventory shall remain
 static, along with their $8 bike moustaches.

 I'm also considering power grips, but these seem like a sturdier (
 prettier) option. Can anybody tell me what the Powergrips are made of?
 Can you vouch for their durability? I guess the obvious answer is Riv
 doesn't sell crap, but I have bought an unsatisfactory item or two
 from them in my time...

 On Feb 11, 1:30 am, Benedikt neutralbuoya...@comcast.net wrote:



  I would have to agree with you.  I got some Powergrips for my daily
  commuting and errands and I love 'em

  On Feb 10, 6:34 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

   Caught these over on Urbanvelo:

  http://mollettadesign.com/products-page/biciband/biciband-grigio/

   The makers are promoting them for fixies.  Seems to me they would work
   just fine with any traditional road pedal, no matter the drive train.- 
   Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: In case you cannot find a Power Grip the right color ...

2011-02-11 Thread JoelMatthews
Probably the first time my tech advice worked!

I was using the Bruce Gordon half clips with my Whites.  As long as
you are riding with tough sneakers or such, the half clips pair well
with the Whites.

Unfortunately, both the steel and Ti versions leave marks on my work
shoes.  My ride to work is short enough that on nice days I would
rather not have to wear bike shoes and have to change at the office.
Possibly if Bruce made a version with flat rather than round tubing
this would not be a problem.

On Feb 11, 4:22 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks, Joel. Firefox  Chrome = no dice, Safari = A-OK.

 I will let the group know how these straps work once I get 'em. I'm
 glad these were introduced, as I really wanted to get the W.I pedals,
 but I didn't have confidence in either Bruce Gordan's half clips
 (adjustability) or the Power Grips (adjustability,quality,looks). Hope
 these can adjust on the fly and are high quality.

 On Feb 11, 4:56 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  Mike:

  The problem with the site may have to do with your browser.  I had
  trouble getting it to work on Explorer, but worked fine on Safari.

  I have the new Power Grip Riv is selling.  I think the materila is
  leatherette, but am not sure.  Power Grips seem sturdy, but are not
  easily adjusted.  From the Moletta demo, it appears these new ones may
  be easier to adjust.  If so, this is exactly what I want, as I wear
  different shoes depending on when and where I am riding.

  On Feb 11, 3:28 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:

   Just put in for a set of White Industries pedals and I'm trying to get
   a pair of these Molletta straps to go with them, but the slick hipster
   webdesign is unspeakably frustrating. I can't find any type of
   checkout button on the site, and so their inventory shall remain
   static, along with their $8 bike moustaches.

   I'm also considering power grips, but these seem like a sturdier (
   prettier) option. Can anybody tell me what the Powergrips are made of?
   Can you vouch for their durability? I guess the obvious answer is Riv
   doesn't sell crap, but I have bought an unsatisfactory item or two
   from them in my time...

   On Feb 11, 1:30 am, Benedikt neutralbuoya...@comcast.net wrote:

I would have to agree with you.  I got some Powergrips for my daily
commuting and errands and I love 'em

On Feb 10, 6:34 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 Caught these over on Urbanvelo:

http://mollettadesign.com/products-page/biciband/biciband-grigio/

 The makers are promoting them for fixies.  Seems to me they would work
 just fine with any traditional road pedal, no matter the drive 
 train.- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about tubing for AHH

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
Actually, if you are going to make a quality home, steel and cement
framing are the better way to go.

The AHH is not a custom bike.  If the buyer wants to spec tubing, find
a builder who will use the tubing of your choice. Many builders,
including those considered among the best, will accept little, if any,
client direction on tubing choice.  Which says all I need to know
about the value of knowing the tubes used for your bike.

On Feb 10, 8:45 am, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 About newenglandbike's wood analogy, I think a more accurate analogy
 might be that knowing the TYPE of wood is important, but knowing the
 BRAND is probably not. You certainly want to know your house is being
 built of a certain grade and species, but whether that wood comes from
 Weyerhauser or Georgia-Pacific makes no difference.
 To bring this back OT, it makes complete sense to want to know that
 your bike is made of good material. In Riv's case, many of us are fine
 with Grant's trust me, it's good. But I think many riders have a
 legitimate desire to know more. You may have found you like the ride
 of bikes with certain tubing specs (though I doubt one could discern
 between brands with the same specs) and as mentioned above one may
 have specific concerns about durability or other things.
 As I have said before, Riv/Grant only seem to end up creating grief
 for themselves when they share too much - the confusion around the
 multi-ethnic Sam Hillbornes being only the latest example. It goes
 against their pay no attention to the man behind the curtain message
 - find a builder you trust, trust them (it's good), and just get out
 and ride.
 Maybe Grant is the Wizard of Walnut Creek? ;-)

 -Pete

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about tubing for AHH

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
 Well Well.. I'm glad I'm not Grant.  Write a quick article on how you feel
 and have your anologies disected more so than the overal point being made.

I was just harrassing GP on Cement and Steel over wood.  In hindsight,
perhaps I should have left it unsaid.  If I recall from my
undergraduate Logic course, one possible inference from my argument
could be - HORRORS! - wood home framing is to steel home framing what
steel bike tubing is to carbon bike tubing.

Without looking I recall the AHH is a mix of tubing brands and
diameters.  Probably some variations between the smaller models and
larger as well.

I recently took delivery of a 30th Anniversary Spectrum road bike.
One of the selling points for that bike is the Colombus SL tubing.
(Brad Wilson of Capricorn Bikes is offering a great deal on a similar
all Colombus SL build up for those of you interested.  If I did not
already have the Spectrum, I would be in line.  Highly recommend
Brad.)

Otherwise, unless you are a Grant Peterson or Richard Sachs, stressing
over tubing is all academic to me.  I know Italian bikes built with
Colombus SL in the day are fun to ride.  I expect my Spectrum will be
fun to ride as well (managed to get it built up right before as all
the snow dumped on Chicago).

If you were to corner me and demanded I explain what it is that makes
Colombus bikes fun to ride, or, more to the point, whether this
quality could be duplicated with other tubing, I would be hard pressed
to give a cogent answer.


On Feb 10, 9:58 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well Well.. I'm glad I'm not Grant.  Write a quick article on how you feel
 and have your anologies disected more so than the overal point being made.  
 I just took it to mean, regardless of the name of the quality tube it's more
 the design and build than the tube itself you should be worried about.
 Simple and easy, then goes on to answer the question of what tube is used.  
 At end he indicates it's what goes on in his mind, but that he's grateful to
 have to answer the question after all.  Nothing magical or hidden in there.
 So do we now have the MSNBC-RIV channel and the FOX-RIV channel and we will
 look for hidden meanings and agendas.  One side is going to look for the
 littlest thing they can disagree with while another is going to blindly
 build it up as special.  

 Life isn't that way, I'm not that way, and I'd bet big bucks Grant isn't
 that way and I don't even know him.  In his own long winded way he answered
 the question of what tubes are in the AHH.

 I considered his points correct and in line with what I've read in other
 articles of his.  I would prefer not to read legal documentation.. thus
 giving the writer benefit of the doubt and looking at what is said overall.  
 Mind f'ing is fun for some so have at it.. I just found it off the deep
 end.  

 Sorry.. nothing personal .. just me.. and not about any one particular post
 here or even this thread alone.. seems to be a pattern if Grant says
 anything.

 Shrug

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about tubing for AHH

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
 About the only thing I'll say by way of defense of the question is
 maybe 2% of the buying public can discern these differences. I
 empathize with a builder (whether bike or house) that gets asked these
 question because there's no way of knowing up front whether the person
 asking is in the 2% or not. Nor is there a polite way, especially in
 email, to suss it out before answering. But odds are 49 to 1 they
 aren't.

I would wager that even some pre-eminent bike builders can not say
with absolute certainty that if bike A has a downtube with wall
thickness x it will deliver ride y to a rider of weight z.  There are
some general assumptions that may be made.  The more experienced the
more fine tuned those assumptions become.  In the end, however,
factors such as hub, rim and tire choice, saddle used, road
conditions, etc. will all play rolls largely out of the frame
builder's control.

On Feb 10, 11:22 am, Allan in Portland allan_f...@aracnet.com wrote:
 Do we know the wall thicknesses from previous mention or is implicit
 to the tubing model? (ie. True Temper Verus HT cromo seat tubes only
 come in one wall thickness.) Wall thickness is the thing I've always
 wondered but never asked, because it always seemed pretty obvious --
 to me, apparently there's about two folks a year that didn't
 notice :-) -- Grant didn't like being asked.

 As a pretty light fellow and dedicated BQ subscriber I think wall
 thickness is important; however, I agree tubing brand and particularly
 tensile strength is mostly irrelevant marketing hype. I do suspect he
 uses somewhat beefy tubes. His most outspoken fans seem to be
 relatively heavy and/or tall riders, and Grant himself seems most fond
 of a good fire road (aren't we all).

 About the only thing I'll say by way of defense of the question is
 maybe 2% of the buying public can discern these differences. I
 empathize with a builder (whether bike or house) that gets asked these
 question because there's no way of knowing up front whether the person
 asking is in the 2% or not. Nor is there a polite way, especially in
 email, to suss it out before answering. But odds are 49 to 1 they
 aren't.

 As for me, whenever I ask these types of questions (and as an engineer
 I ask them a lot ;-) I always take pains to preface it with a little
 jargon to show hey, I'm in the 2%.

 Regards,
 -Allan

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[RBW] Re: Blog post about tubing for AHH

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
 I don't know, I recently had my back yard cleared and we found dry rot
 on the post holding up the deck (its 20ft in the air), so I'm going
 to have to replace it.

But you can make the analogy even more complicated.

There are probably some asthetic rationale behind your specifying wood
based products for your deck.  If your bid request was for the most
durable deck at a certain price, it is possible a contractor would
offer to build it with the new cement board products increasingly in
commercial building.

Riv sellls the AHH as a country bike.  Riv further says it is a bike
that can carry a rider and reasonable load over a number of different
surfaces comfortably and at respectable speed.  Plumbing tubing could
not build such a bike.  But there are probably a lot of different
tubing that could.

On Feb 10, 11:41 am, bfd bfd...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Feb 10, 7:10 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: The wood 
 analogy is not mine; it's from the original blog post.   But
  I think the intended purpose of the analogy is very clear, even if the
  analysis of it may or may not be (to me anyway).

 I don't know, I recently had my back yard cleared and we found dry rot
 on the post holding up the deck (its 20ft in the air), so I'm going
 to have to replace it. I'm waiting for bids from several different
 contractors and one thing I'm specifying in their quote is a price for
 the use of Trex or similar composite (can I say that word here?!:)
 wood for the deck and railing.  The rationale for this request is that
 I live in the San Francisco Sunset District and my deck is on a hill
 facing south. It is exposed to sunlight, fog, wind and rain. It is my
 understanding that composites like Trex (there's also other brands
 like timbertech, dream dex or something like that, which I have no
 idea about),  will last at least 25-30 years. I'm willing to pay more
 now so that I don't have to deal with it again in the future.

 Similarly, I'm asking that the post and any framing be replaced with
 pressure treated versus regular redwood, again because pressure
 treated last longer, i.e., I should get 20 year life versus 10-12 year
 with redwood.

 Anyways, getting back to the point, for those in the know or are
 interested, then its perfectly reasonable to inquire about specific
 tubing or wood. Good Luck!

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[RBW] In case you cannot find a Power Grip the right color ...

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
Caught these over on Urbanvelo:

http://mollettadesign.com/products-page/biciband/biciband-grigio/

The makers are promoting them for fixies.  Seems to me they would work
just fine with any traditional road pedal, no matter the drive train.

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[RBW] Re: In case you cannot find a Power Grip the right color ...

2011-02-10 Thread JoelMatthews
Not at all related to the link above, but cool anyhow:

http://lemolobags.wordpress.com/

I have a set of Lemolo panniers.  They are very well made and look
great.  If this project bears fruit, there may be more of his swell
product at a more attainable price.

On Feb 10, 8:34 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Caught these over on Urbanvelo:

 http://mollettadesign.com/products-page/biciband/biciband-grigio/

 The makers are promoting them for fixies.  Seems to me they would work
 just fine with any traditional road pedal, no matter the drive train.

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[RBW] Re: New (to me anyway) and quite flat platform pedals ...

2011-02-09 Thread JoelMatthews
I am not familiar with Canfield.

Currently, I am using the more White Industry platform pedals on my
commuter bike.  The Whites are more expensive and require either a toe
clip, a half clip, or power grips.  But they are wonderfully smooth
pedals, are very easy to clean and grease, and look great.

If the Canfields are anywhere near as smooth as the Whites (or the MKS
Custom Nuevos), they may be a viable alternative.

I do agree there are less expensive options out there that probably
function as or nearly as well.  Personally, I do not mind paying a
little more to the mom and pop or for Canfield - bro and bro - if the
product is good quality.  The Whites certainly are top quality.
Somewhat curious whether these live up to White standards.


On Feb 9, 9:07 am, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:
 That's a lot of money for reduced slippage.
 Of course, if you're looking for a dwnhill pedal these may be the
 ticket. Otherwise, really, just about anything flat will work fine.
 I race on Crank Bros. 5050XX (sealed bearing version, replaceable pins
 and plates) without shin guards and have yet to take a significant
 core sample of my leg. The pedal is just a big, wide, happy platform
 for my foot.
 For anything else, any ordinary BMX-type flat pedal will work fine for
 all but the biggest feet, and costs far less. I like the MKS platform
 pedals that Riv sells, but I'm also a fan of the Redline BMX pedal
 with replaceable pins and sealed bearings. Both cost less than $50 a
 pair retail, and losse-bearing versions of the Redline pedal cost
 around half of that.
 Beth

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[RBW] Re: New (to me anyway) and quite flat platform pedals ...

2011-02-09 Thread JoelMatthews
 Having written a little marketing copy in my time, I must say that the
 Canfield claims were pretty egregious.

One of the dangers with cottage industries selling through their own
websites is they sometimes decide to write their own copy.  There may
be some metal fabricators who can write good marketing copy.  For the
most part, the two do not overlap.

Probably they should have just stuck with their first instinct and
said something along the lines of - Dude! This is one cool looking
flat pedal!

On Feb 9, 11:19 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Having written a little marketing copy in my time, I must say that the
 Canfield claims were pretty egregious.

 It lowers the bottom bracket only in the sense that you have to lower your
 saddle to maintain the same leg extension.

 _Why_ that could possibly be a percieved benefit to the target market is
 beyond me. And that's just the first sentance. The piffle continues
 throughout.

 Really, really makes me once again appreciate the forthright aspect of GP's
 copy writing.  I'm going to go reread some catalogs.

 - Jim ...bad writing makes me cranky.

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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[RBW] Re: 650B Wheels for Touring

2011-02-08 Thread JoelMatthews
Jan Heine sold me a set of NOS 40h Mavic rims which I built up for my
forthcoming 650B.  I will put Hetres on those for plush touring.

I also built up a wheelset with 36h Synergy OC rear to match with Pari
Motos and maybe now even the Lierres.  Imagine those 8 extra spokes
are going to be terribly exhausting for me to turn around, but the
MaxiCar hubs were 36h, so I did not have a choice.

On Feb 8, 9:44 am, Doug Van Cleve dvancl...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey Mike.

 If you aren't totally sold on the Dyads, the Synergy OC is only 1mm narrower
 and will probably build a stronger rear wheel with the same spoke count.

 Doug



 On Tue, Feb 8, 2011 at 8:15 AM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
  I am converting an older British Tourer to 650B. I need to have some
  wheels built and was wondering about spoke count.  I know on 700c that
  36 spokes is preferred ( I know some even like 40+). Anyone out there
  tour on 650B 32 spoke wheels?  I am planning on Dyad rims and I weigh
  188 and don't plan on more than 30lbs of stuff.

  ~Mike- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] New (to me anyway) and quite flat platform pedals ...

2011-02-08 Thread JoelMatthews
Caught these while checking out the latest on Jeff Jones' * site:

http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/products/pedals

Appears there intended purpose is rock riding.  Can't help but think
they would make swell urban and all round pedals as well.


*Something I'm going to have to force myself to stop before I wind up
buying a perfect mountain bike I would probably ride once a year.

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[RBW] Re: Update on riding changes this year.. (oops it's long)

2011-02-06 Thread JoelMatthews
 *Wider Tires* - Ok on my tour bike I could understand 700x35's and enjoyed
 them.  I would never have considered 700x35's for daily riding however
 untill I got my AHH.  The JB lights have been fantastic and given me a great
 fast ride.  (especially when I put some air in them) Then when I got my
 Bombadil with 700x50 big apples and road some 30 and 50 mile rides I was
 just amazed.  Yes they are slower, accerlation is slower.. but on a normal
 social ride it hasn't mattered.  Thrilled.. I am one who will NEVER ride a
 700x23 tires again.

Kelly, if you ride the AHH mainly on paved surface, you may want to
try the 700x35 Schwalbe Kojaks.  This treadless tire rides very smooth
as one might expect from a 35 and has rather low rolling resistance.

On Feb 6, 12:25 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well the change is almost complete to the point it feels normal, and
 surprising.  I honestly didn't think many of the things I was changing would
 stay with me.  I've ridden long enough to understand speed and sprints and
 hurting and doing centuries all over the country remembering only the pace
 line.  So I wasn't as sure about platform pedals, heavier bikes, larger
 tires, sitting upright, and all the other stuff.  

 Well I have reference the joy several times.  Well the newness has worn off
 a bit, the bikes have earned scratches and scrapes.  We bikes and I have
 experianced snow, rain, dirt, mud, traffic and alone time on back pathes
 along the rivers.  They unlike me photograph beautifully.

 So after several hundred miles and on track for another 4 to 6 thousand mile
 year the following is where I stand.

 *Platform pedals* - Still the thing I most often consider changing ..
 however everytime I thing about it I realize that 85% of the time I like my
 grip kings and shoe choice and comfort .. not to mention my feet just aren't
 as cold in regular hiking shoes.  

 *Wider Tires* - Ok on my tour bike I could understand 700x35's and enjoyed
 them.  I would never have considered 700x35's for daily riding however
 untill I got my AHH.  The JB lights have been fantastic and given me a great
 fast ride.  (especially when I put some air in them) Then when I got my
 Bombadil with 700x50 big apples and road some 30 and 50 mile rides I was
 just amazed.  Yes they are slower, accerlation is slower.. but on a normal
 social ride it hasn't mattered.  Thrilled.. I am one who will NEVER ride a
 700x23 tires again.  

 *Upright riding position-* My experiance had been on my older tour bike that
 the more upright position meant my ass hurt sooner and was out of the
 question for longer rides.  (nose up saddle position fixed this fyi) I
 always believed an aggressive riding position distributed the weight to my
 hands and legs etc causing less stress on my rear.  Also meant many miles of
 base riding to get comfortable in that position for long 100 to 120 mile
 rides.  

 *Mental- *This goes with most topics but since I lost speed .. which I don't
 care about or so I kept telling myself I was concerned.  I'm at the point
 where to quote someone on here.. it's been fun per hour over mph thus I'm
 enjoying a new chapter in riding and back to riding .. the bikes don't just
 sit.. I don't dread getting on the bike anymore.  Sometimes change is good.  
 Please don't get me wrong.  The fast days were fun. I reached all my speed
 goals and distance goals and extreme stuff for me.  I was burnt on it.

 *Dyno Lighting *- I bought a SON28 and then put it on my AHH as a temp thing
 with thoughts of taking it off during the summer and spring and such.  Maybe
 putting it on a different bike for just night time runs to the store.  Well
 I fell in love with it. It hasn't been off the bike and won't be coming
 off.  When I ordered the Bombadil I ordered it with a Son28.  I can't find a
 reason to not run these hubs.  

 Peronsal opinion here:  I bought an Edelux light and then purchased the
 supernova E3 Triple for the Bombadil.  Yes the supernova is super bright but
 the Edelux does more than I need and gets to full brightness at 2mph or so
 ..if I had it to do over again I would purchase another edelux.. the beama
 and the light are spectacular.  Just my opinion and it may change as time
 goes on.

 *Lycra Spandex Free - *I am just as comfortable without it. I don't
 understand it and am not going to lose sleep over it.  I honestly didn't
 think I would last more than a few short rides.  Now I've ridden several 50+
 and a couple of 60 mile rides where when I got home I was ready to go ride
 more.  It's been a non issue.  The musa pants I purchased from Riv have been
 very comfortable.   Ilike the olive with the velcro better than the blue
 with the zipper legs for looks only.  The blue are less hassel for riding
 actually.  I always forget to velcro the legs closed on the olive ones.  
 Hell I've done 30 mile rides in blue jeans on a new brooks b17.  I believe
 it's the nose up saddle position that has changed things and 

[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-06 Thread JoelMatthews
 As in, are they knit at a very tight gauge to be slightly more windproof for 
cycling?

These are based on classic designs and definitely not designed in the
line of what most people consider cycling clothes.  The cardigan at
least would not be all that wind proof.  The wool is fairly heavy and
warm.  But you do feel a breeze through them.  If you are looking for
'performance' wool, you probably ought to check out Ibex or similar.
On Feb 6, 1:49 pm, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm curious -- to those who have owned the previous incarnations of
 these tweedy sweaters, is there something special about them beyond
 the fact that they're made from rustic British wool (of which I am a
 great fan)?  As in, are they knit at a very tight gauge to be slightly
 more windproof for cycling?  I am a pretty experienced hand knitter
 and machine knitter, but I'm not a terribly big fan of knit garments
 for providing warmth for cycling: the wind always cuts through and
 chills my bones, so I prefer to wear wool under a woven jacket.  Maybe
 that's just because most of my riding is 5 miles commuting, so I'm
 not building up a proper sweat.

 What have your experiences been?

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-06 Thread JoelMatthews
 IME, layers of relatively thin wool are excellent for riding, wind
 notwithstanding, since they (1) keep you warm in a surprisingly wide range
 of temps and (2) breath so that you don't sweat as with an impermeable
 windbreaker. If the wind is harsh, just add another thin, knit layer. My own
 personal experience.

Pretty much my approach this winter as well (and we have seen our
share of cold, wet and windy days here in Chicago).  I wear a very
thin wool base layer, a sweater, then a middle weight wool jacket with
a full zipper and hood.  The sweater in the middle is the variable.
If it is fairly warm, I wear a very light weight sweater.  Middle
weight most days.  On the real cold days, I have a rather warm mostly
cashmere sweater.

As it happens, even on the coldest day so far - right around 0 - after
a 15 minutes or so I had to unzip the jacket part of the way.  Wool
and other hair fibers work very well.

On Feb 6, 6:25 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 My only like is that the crew-neck, button placket, rear-pocketed pullover
 is just so great as a second layer over a thinner, and less itchey, merino
 base layer.

 IME, layers of relatively thin wool are excellent for riding, wind
 notwithstanding, since they (1) keep you warm in a surprisingly wide range
 of temps and (2) breath so that you don't sweat as with an impermeable
 windbreaker. If the wind is harsh, just add another thin, knit layer. My own
 personal experience.





 On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 12:49 PM, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'm curious -- to those who have owned the previous incarnations of
  these tweedy sweaters, is there something special about them beyond
  the fact that they're made from rustic British wool (of which I am a
  great fan)?  As in, are they knit at a very tight gauge to be slightly
  more windproof for cycling?  I am a pretty experienced hand knitter
  and machine knitter, but I'm not a terribly big fan of knit garments
  for providing warmth for cycling: the wind always cuts through and
  chills my bones, so I prefer to wear wool under a woven jacket.  Maybe
  that's just because most of my riding is 5 miles commuting, so I'm
  not building up a proper sweat.

  What have your experiences been?

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 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-06 Thread JoelMatthews
 I've gotta think there's more than a little blind faith in action
 here.

Somewhat difficult to follow your point.

These sweaters are are not some new Rov bike design.  Rather, they are
traditional English sweater designs made with traditional wool
varietals.  It is not uncommon to see people in the UK and Ireland
wearing very similar garments.

 I think they are at their weakest in their  efforts to expand Rivendell into 
 a lifestyle brand.

Don't follow this either.  GP frequently makes the point that bicycle
specific clothing go astray the point of enjoying a bicycle.  He is
also an advocate of small crafts businesses where possible.  Quality
comfortable made by a family owned company seem very consistent with
the philosophy and not a craven effort to expand a brand.

On Feb 6, 8:26 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've gotta think there's more than a little blind faith in action
 here. A vest is not a shirt with the arms chopped off, as a post above
 noted.  Properly designing a piece of clothing requires real skill and
 experience. No less than properly designing a bicycle frame. And
 nothing says that doing one well qualifies you at all for doing the
 other well.
 My only experience with Riv clothing is pair of Musa shorts, and the
 quality of design and construction of those was Old Navy caliber, at
 best. I think Riv makes some of the best bike stuff in the world for
 it's intended purpose. I think they are at their weakest in their
 efforts to expand Rivendell into a lifestyle brand.

 On Feb 5, 5:57 pm, dean899 monte.di...@gmail.com wrote:



  Good to see them make a return.  I've been trying to get the vest and
  long sleeve sweater off the list here and now have one of each(yeah).
  My only gripe is the fact the the old last version was knit off
  center!   The pockets were not centered and the cardigan was a mess
  with the buttons centered on my chest at the top but the bottom of the
  sweater had the buttons at my right hip.  Hope there is quality
  control on this batch!

  On Feb 5, 4:45 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

Made in England, same guys making them,

   That is good to know.  From the RR piece on them a few years back they
   came across as the kind of wonderfully eccentric crafts people that
   you can still meet every now and then in rural UK.  I was afraid they
   had retired or gone out of business or something.

   On Feb 5, 10:26 am, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:

There are some bluish strands of wool, so I'd say at least some of the
wool is from Swaledales that are kin to the one show below. Made in
England, same guys making them, and I'll get the skinny on the rest of
the wool. It is far from merino. Some kind of wirey, wolf-proof
sheep, I'm sure.

G

On Feb 5, 5:06 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 Not sure, but you see these Swaledale sheep everywhere in the UK:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikip...

 The earlier version of the sweater was made by a small outfit in
 England.

 On Feb 4, 11:32 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/324

  For the rivhq gang - does anyone know the type of sheep the wool 
  comes
  from?  Inquiring minds (like my knitting significant other) want to
  know.

  I'm curious where they're being made.

  Love the ben franklin sweater. Will probably buy 2 of them just for 
  me.

  -sv- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-05 Thread JoelMatthews
Not sure, but you see these Swaledale sheep everywhere in the UK:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/63/Swaledale_sheep.jpgimgrefurl=http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Swaledale_sheep.jpgh=684w=1024sz=383tbnid=yOBJNb3yJ6IahM:tbnh=100tbnw=150prev=/images%3Fq%3Dswaledale%2Bsheepzoom=1q=swaledale+sheepusg=__pg6_eB0fJvueDJP3SozpJUwY5AI=sa=Xei=w0pNTcD-BoXagAeJlOg5ved=0CCkQ9QEwAg

The earlier version of the sweater was made by a small outfit in
England.

On Feb 4, 11:32 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/324

 For the rivhq gang - does anyone know the type of sheep the wool comes
 from?  Inquiring minds (like my knitting significant other) want to
 know.

 I'm curious where they're being made.

 Love the ben franklin sweater. Will probably buy 2 of them just for me.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-05 Thread JoelMatthews
   You're not the only one. Before I purchased my first Rivendell i was warned 
 about the Grant Petersen cult and this just proves that it is real:
 Grant; We have this really scratchy sweater to sell you.
 Cult members: Oh thank you, Grant! We wouldn't want to wear something 
 comfortable.

Respectfully, I think you and Jim are missing the point of these
garments.

I like soft wool products as much as anyone.  In fact, I even have a
Loro Piana Vicuna Sweater I wear on cold weather rides (one plus to no
significant other or kids is you can be extravagant every now and then
- plus Loro Piana gets all its Vicuna wool from native americans who
release the wild Vicunas after giving them a crew cut).

I also have one of the original Wooly Warm cardigans (and intend to
get another).  It is a great sweater.  I keep my thermostat here in
Chicago at 57.   From Late November until MidMarch (what a great
book!) I wear the cardigan over a long sleeved tee shirt nearly every
evening.  It especially comes in handy when I am working on my bikes.
The cardigan shows its age a little.  But it has held up
wonderfully.

The commando sweater looks like it would be great for hiking, sledding
and other rough and tumble outdoor activity.  It will definitely last
much longer than soft wool garments.  Unlike fleece, it will not build
up odor after spirited uses to the point you finally have to recycle
it.

On Feb 5, 2:32 pm, William Pustow bpus...@aol.com wrote:
 Jim,

   You're not the only one. Before I purchased my first Rivendell i was warned 
 about the Grant Petersen cult and this just proves that it is real:
 Grant; We have this really scratchy sweater to sell you.
 Cult members: Oh thank you, Grant! We wouldn't want to wear something 
 comfortable.

    Don't get me wrong, I have 3 Riv's and love them. Now the Rivendell 
 sweatshirt - Oh thank you Grant!

 Bill
 Louisville, Ky

 Bill
 Louisville, Ky
 On Feb 5, 2011, at 11:38 AM, Jim Cloud wrote:



  I guess my view will be considered contrarian, but I've had more than
  enough scratchy wool sweaters in my lifetime.

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[RBW] Re: new sweaters/vests

2011-02-05 Thread JoelMatthews
 Made in England, same guys making them,

That is good to know.  From the RR piece on them a few years back they
came across as the kind of wonderfully eccentric crafts people that
you can still meet every now and then in rural UK.  I was afraid they
had retired or gone out of business or something.

On Feb 5, 10:26 am, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 There are some bluish strands of wool, so I'd say at least some of the
 wool is from Swaledales that are kin to the one show below. Made in
 England, same guys making them, and I'll get the skinny on the rest of
 the wool. It is far from merino. Some kind of wirey, wolf-proof
 sheep, I'm sure.

 G

 On Feb 5, 5:06 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  Not sure, but you see these Swaledale sheep everywhere in the UK:

 http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikip...

  The earlier version of the sweater was made by a small outfit in
  England.

  On Feb 4, 11:32 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

  http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/324

   For the rivhq gang - does anyone know the type of sheep the wool comes
   from?  Inquiring minds (like my knitting significant other) want to
   know.

   I'm curious where they're being made.

   Love the ben franklin sweater. Will probably buy 2 of them just for me.

   -sv

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
 one observation... the world of steel bikes, Nitto, and non carbon
 silver components  is very small compared the bicycle world as a
 whole

I imagine the relatively small size of the steel bike world is why
people tend to lump its practitioners together.  There are big
differences in the Riv and VO design approach.

Riv's tend to be mid trail with moderately long chain stays affording
neutral to lively handling with modest loads up front and mid to heavy
in the rear.

VO bikes are in the French tradition low trail that remain stable with
a lot of weight up front and offer a relaxed comfortable ride.

Looking closely at their approach to handlebars, brakes, wheel sets,
tires etc., the different approach is consistently there.  Someone
could easily have a VO and Riv bike with almost no overlap.

On Feb 3, 10:47 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 one observation... the world of steel bikes, Nitto, and non carbon
 silver components  is very small compared the bicycle world as a
 whole. I'm delighted that all 3 shops (and others) are able to
 survive. It would be a cold dark ( black and grey) world without all
 of them.

 ~Mike

 On Feb 3, 7:34 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:



  I vividly remember my first visit to Jitensha Studio in my freshman
  year a Cal in 1987.  I'd never seen a shop like that, and I can't say
  I've ever seen another like it.

  On Feb 3, 6:55 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:

   On Feb 3, 1:08 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.

Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
Riv, though I am not certain on that.

   Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a Me
   too Jitensha. :)

   Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
   was where he knew Pineapple Bob of the Bridgestone catalog fame.

   -B- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
 Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a Me
 too Jitensha. :)
 Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
 was where he knew Pineapple Bob of the Bridgestone catalog fame.

That is my understanding.

The BOBs may have to chime in here, but I always thought Bridgestone
in the Grant years was trying to translate at scale what the small,
Francophile Japanese shops (such as Toei) Jitensha championed were
doing.

On Feb 3, 8:55 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:
 On Feb 3, 1:08 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.

  Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
  Riv, though I am not certain on that.

 Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a Me
 too Jitensha. :)

 Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
 was where he knew Pineapple Bob of the Bridgestone catalog fame.

 -B

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
 I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
 done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels.

It is a matter of preference.  40h rims are not more expensive than
36h.  A lot of choices on what goes into the panniers are going to
have far more impact on weight than 4 spokes.

I certainly do not think having 40h wheels are a critical for my
completing a tour.  But overkill meaning what?  Not like I have lost
anything having them.  As my 40h wheels are built around smooth
rolling Maxicar hubs, I get a plush ride few wheelsets can match.


On Feb 4, 9:38 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
 done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels. I weigh about 190lbs .If
 you use good stiff rims ( Dyad's in my case), thr right spokes and fat
 tires a 36 hole rim is plenty.

 ~Mike

 On Feb 4, 7:29 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:



  Gary

  I weigh 205 and I run the stock 26 rims on my Long Haul Trucker with
  Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (26x50). As I wrote in another post, the
  fatter tires are now my choice for all loaded tours.

  I know you didn't ask about your choice of 40h rims, but I thought I
  might add some unsolicited advice. I have never had a well-built, 36-
  hole wheel fail on a tour - poor stock rims, yes - but not handbuilt
  wheels. I think lots of folks make the assumption that more is better
  for expeditioning. A 40 hole rim seems way overbuilt for front wheels
  for someone your size. With a 26-inch wheel, 40h in the rear also
  seems excessive. Here's another consideration: I had a nice, custom
  40h rear wheel on my Bombadil during one tour. When the rim self-
  destructed due to a manufacturing defect, I was hard-pressed to find
  an easily available replacement rim on which I could use my expensive
  40h hub. I ended up using a cheap ( $100) 36h wheel for the last half
  of the tour and it worked just as well as the $400 wheel it replaced.
  Save yourself some money for panniers, etc. You could go with a
  cheaper front wheel at least.

  With tires as nice as the Scwalbe Supremes and the versatility of
  fatter tires, I really don't see any reason to run thinner tires for
  loaded touring or rough riding unless your bike won't accommodate the
  fat ones.

  Dave

  On Jan 28, 2:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:

   I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
   feedback. The wheels will be 26, used fully loaded. Me 200lbs 6'4,
   bike fully loaded, 60% on road 40% offroad. 40 hole Phils, tires 1.75
   maybe  2.0.   Now the questions.

   24mm or 27mm rim width and limitations for each with regard to
   minimum/ maximum tire size for the rims?

   What would be the safe minimum tire width on either and still be safe
   (pinch flats etc.) for rough riding.

   What would be the maximum tire width (stability) for each.

   I'm needing to pick my poison.

   Thanks,

   Gary- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
 I think Grant seems to favor the tried and true proven stuff
 while VO seems to like to experiment with new versions using cheaper
 Taiwanese mfgers

VO experiments with manufacturers, true.  But most of the VO branded
components are highly derivative.  Most VO racks, brakes, brake
levers, cranks, pedals have French counterparts from as early as the
1950s.  The geometry of VO bikes is classic French.

On the other hand, Riv has some fairly novel items such as the
Platrack, splats, and was very happy to shift to the rapidrise rear
derailer (although Riv appears to be out of stock at the moment).

On Feb 4, 9:42 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:
 Certainly both Riv and VO try to find their own niches in this small
 part of the cycling business, but I find a lot of commonality between
 the two.  I think Grant seems to favor the tried and true proven stuff
 while VO seems to like to experiment with new versions using cheaper
 Taiwanese mfgers

 ~Mike

 On Feb 4, 5:55 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a Me
   too Jitensha. :)
   Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
   was where he knew Pineapple Bob of the Bridgestone catalog fame.

  That is my understanding.

  The BOBs may have to chime in here, but I always thought Bridgestone
  in the Grant years was trying to translate at scale what the small,
  Francophile Japanese shops (such as Toei) Jitensha championed were
  doing.

  On Feb 3, 8:55 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:

   On Feb 3, 1:08 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.

Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
Riv, though I am not certain on that.

   Jitensha is actually pre-Rivendell, so if anything, Rivendell is a Me
   too Jitensha. :)

   Grant wrote somewhere that he used to hang out at Jitensha, and that
   was where he knew Pineapple Bob of the Bridgestone catalog fame.

   -B- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
Dave:

  However, aren't 40h hubs (Phil or otherwise) generally quite a bit more 
 expensive than 36h Shimano XT's?

That is a good point.  While 40h rims are not more expensive, if you
are buying new hubs the market for 40h is small enough you will pay
premium.  NOS (and even good condition used) MaxiCar hubs are always
going to come at cost.  I did not think about current manufacturers
when I posted my earlier reply.

 taking the TIME for the actual experience. Sadly, for some people,
 planning and buying gear is the extent of their progress towards their
 dream trip. That said, I also think that planning and buying gear are
 fun and valid parts of the overall experience of adventuring - but
 they're not THE adventure.

Also a good point.  I will heartily recommend MaxiCars to anyone who
can find a set.  That said, the lack of MaxiCars should never keep
someone from going on tour!

On Feb 4, 10:19 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
 Joel

 I agree. It is a matter of preference. I love having nice parts on my
 bikes whenever possible. Perhaps you are also right that the weight of
 4 more spokes is insignificant. I haven't compared the weights of my
 40h and 36h rear wheels, so I don't know. I also agree that choosing
 what goes into your panniers is the most significant factor in overall
 weight (other than body weight). However, aren't 40h hubs (Phil or
 otherwise) generally quite a bit more expensive than 36h Shimano XT's?
 The latter work just fine for extended touring. For folks on any kind
 of a budget, who want to have strong, functional gear, it makes sense
 not to overbuild with expensive parts when less expensive, but good
 quality parts will do.

 In my field (adventure/outdoor education), I see a lot of folks,
 mainly middle-aged people like me, who delay their dream adventures in
 order to purchase the best tools for those adventures. The cost for
 many is having to work longer to pay for the experience instead of
 taking the TIME for the actual experience. Sadly, for some people,
 planning and buying gear is the extent of their progress towards their
 dream trip. That said, I also think that planning and buying gear are
 fun and valid parts of the overall experience of adventuring - but
 they're not THE adventure.

 OK, I'm ranging waaay off topic here and I'll stop.

 Gary, did you get your answer??

 Dave

 On Feb 4, 8:49 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
   done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels.

  It is a matter of preference.  40h rims are not more expensive than
  36h.  A lot of choices on what goes into the panniers are going to
  have far more impact on weight than 4 spokes.

  I certainly do not think having 40h wheels are a critical for my
  completing a tour.  But overkill meaning what?  Not like I have lost
  anything having them.  As my 40h wheels are built around smooth
  rolling Maxicar hubs, I get a plush ride few wheelsets can match.

  On Feb 4, 9:38 am, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:

   I agree with Dave... the 40 and 48 hole rims seem like overkill. I've
   done week long tours on handbuilt 32h wheels. I weigh about 190lbs .If
   you use good stiff rims ( Dyad's in my case), thr right spokes and fat
   tires a 36 hole rim is plenty.

   ~Mike

   On Feb 4, 7:29 am, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:

Gary

I weigh 205 and I run the stock 26 rims on my Long Haul Trucker with
Schwalbe Marathon Supremes (26x50). As I wrote in another post, the
fatter tires are now my choice for all loaded tours.

I know you didn't ask about your choice of 40h rims, but I thought I
might add some unsolicited advice. I have never had a well-built, 36-
hole wheel fail on a tour - poor stock rims, yes - but not handbuilt
wheels. I think lots of folks make the assumption that more is better
for expeditioning. A 40 hole rim seems way overbuilt for front wheels
for someone your size. With a 26-inch wheel, 40h in the rear also
seems excessive. Here's another consideration: I had a nice, custom
40h rear wheel on my Bombadil during one tour. When the rim self-
destructed due to a manufacturing defect, I was hard-pressed to find
an easily available replacement rim on which I could use my expensive
40h hub. I ended up using a cheap ( $100) 36h wheel for the last half
of the tour and it worked just as well as the $400 wheel it replaced.
Save yourself some money for panniers, etc. You could go with a
cheaper front wheel at least.

With tires as nice as the Scwalbe Supremes and the versatility of
fatter tires, I really don't see any reason to run thinner tires for
loaded touring or rough riding unless your bike won't accommodate the
fat ones.

Dave

On Jan 28, 2:07 pm, Gary g...@worldcyclotour.com wrote:

 I'm looking to get a new touring wheelset and would like some
 feedback. The wheels

[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-04 Thread JoelMatthews
 Of course, those Maxicar hubs use freewheels, and they're not as easy to
 find as cassettes, either.  If one failed on a tour you might be hard
 pressed to find a replacement -- even more so if French threaded.

I have been a mad MaxiCar collector (horder?) for years now.  The two
wheel sets I have built up - the instant 700 touring set and a set for
my forthcoming 650b are BSA.  The French threads stay on my display
shelf.

If you are following strict deadlines on your tour, getting a new
freewheel or rim may be an issue.  I have never - and do not currently
have plans to - toured anywhere FedEx and UPS do not serve.  If I ever
get stuck in nowhereville for a day or two, I am sure I can make the
most of it.

On Feb 4, 10:54 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2011-02-04 at 07:49 -0800, JoelMatthews wrote:

  I certainly do not think having 40h wheels are a critical for my
  completing a tour.  But overkill meaning what?  Not like I have lost
  anything having them.  As my 40h wheels are built around smooth
  rolling Maxicar hubs, I get a plush ride few wheelsets can match.

 Overkill in the sense of being unnecessary, perhaps.  However, you have
 lost something.  Chances are, you could find a 36 hole rim in 700C,
 anyway, most anywhere, but finding a 40 hole rim might be about as
 difficult as finding a 650B rim.  Not impossible, of course, but not as
 easy.

 Of course, those Maxicar hubs use freewheels, and they're not as easy to
 find as cassettes, either.  If one failed on a tour you might be hard
 pressed to find a replacement -- even more so if French threaded.

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[RBW] Re: Supremes for mild off-road (non-pavement)

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
 Not sure I'd want them as racing tires on farm roads in the driftless region 
 of Iowa.  But for most things
 short of that, they'd be fine.

Services are kind of far and few between, otherwise, Northeast Iowa is
a great place to ride.  Scenery is otherworldly.  Not crowded, even
during the best weather.  The geology extends east of the Mississippi
into Wisconsin and Illinois, but car tourism is far more prevalent in
those states.

On Feb 3, 5:25 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Have used both the 26 and 700C versions on non-paved roads and/or
 trails.  They work just fine.  Not sure I'd want them as racing tires
 on farm roads in the driftless region of Iowa.  But for most things
 short of that, they'd be fine.

 But yeah, they do get slippery on ice.  But not much worse than a
 Pasela or similar lightly grooved tire.

 Haven't tried them in snow.  Prefer the grip of studded tires.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Feb 3, 2:38 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:



  They slip on ice..just ask me! I ride mine on dirt, gravel,
  minor mud like riding through mud puddles and the surrounding muddy
  areas but mostly pavement. You just have to be careful. I like the
  lighter weight, low rolling resistance and width of the my 700 x 40's
  (38mm actual). I can ride them at lower pressures and I have enough
  volume that I avoid pinch flats and they roll fast with about 65 psi
  and I am 265+ these days.

  On Feb 2, 8:35 pm, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:

   Hey Forrest,

   I have the 40s on my QB, and while I bought them for my daily/nightly
   commuting here in Denver, they have seen a fair amount of dirt road/
   trail action up in the mtns.  Absolutely super tire!  Obviously not
   the best in thick sand or mud, but for forest service roads, etc.
   they are great.

   -Jay B

   On Feb 2, 6:45 pm, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:

How capable are the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes for mild non-pavement
riding -- e.g., gravel roads, crushed rock rail trails, and the like?
Thanks,  -- Forrest (in immediate-post-blizzard Iowa City)- Hide quoted 
text -

  - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Supremes for mild off-road (non-pavement)

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
Oh and on topic: Riding in Western Illinois on a limestone trail,
Supreme 38s did well until the rain.  They spun a lot on me after the
trails got drenched.

On Feb 2, 7:45 pm, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:
 How capable are the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes for mild non-pavement
 riding -- e.g., gravel roads, crushed rock rail trails, and the like?
 Thanks,  -- Forrest (in immediate-post-blizzard Iowa City)

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
I found the comments about the soap altogether more interesting than
the diet stuff.

On Feb 3, 8:35 am, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2011/02/paleo-rambling.html

 Not too oft intersection of VO and Rivendell, it's about the diet
 stuff so if you've signed off from that topic please move along.  No
 comments from myself.

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.

Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
Riv, though I am not certain on that.  It is a local bicycle store
operated by a Japanese American that makes Japanese small shop bicycle
parts available in the United States.  Jitensha has never tried to be
a mass marketer.  It has an online catalogue, but no on line
purchasing.  Jitensha rather quaintly shuts down when the owner goes
to Japan.

Frankly, I never really saw VO as a me too company for that matter.
True Riv and VO sell steel bikes and market more toward the commuter/
tourer than sporting cyclist.  But Riv is and always has been focused
around GP's rather unique ideas on how a bike should fit and look.
VO's bikes are admittedly copies of classic French designs.

The components Riv sells are usually not GP's designs, but rather nice
stuff Riv finds that seem like good matches for their bikes.  GP will
usually only get into the component design fray when there is concern
the components manufacturers will otherwise stop making a useful
part.  Riv does not distribute much, if any, components to local bike
shops (heck, it hardly distributes its frames to local bike shops any
more).

As with its bikes, VO sells mostly reworked French designs made in
Taiwan shops under the VO label.  VO sells its components on line, but
its main business is distributing them to bike shops around the U.S.
and even abroad.

On Feb 3, 2:36 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 Allen,

 I'm with you, i've been a Rivendell customer going back to 1999 but i
 hadn't bought anything since 2005 until 2010 building up my
 Hillborne.  So all these new sources for what i considered Riv'ish but
 i guess others would use a more generic term, bike parts like Velo
 Orange, Jitensha, etc was a surprise to me.  I don't know how long
 they've been around and i don;t attribute the resurgence of classic
 bike parts to Rivendell (but i'm sure their advocacy didn't hurt).
 But i do wonder how they all interact with each other.

 It's also nice for me to have VO on the east coast as packages come a
 lot faster, and i can drive there in 2 hours in a pinch.  I know some
 people are one or the other, but i don't find them mutually exclusive,
 there are things at VO i would not put on my own bike but that's just
 my style.

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[RBW] Re: New Touring Wheelset question

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
 I use the 26 RhynoLite on my own touring bike, 48h rear and 40h front.

Cool!  I weigh 155 or so and carry moderate loads touring.  But I love
the look and security riding on 40h rims.  The only 48h Maxicar hubs I
could find were tandem width, otherwise I would have liked to have a
48h rear wheel as well.

On Feb 3, 6:18 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 There is no practical tire width limitation. I have many times run 2 or
 bigger tires on rims 24 mm or slightly narrower. If you need rims, I have a
 shocking number of 26 40h rims, mostly Velocity Aeroheat (black) and Sun
 RhynoLite (polished silver). I use the 26 RhynoLite on my own touring bike,
 48h rear and 40h front.

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[RBW] Re: VO/Rivendell Cross Blog Post

2011-02-03 Thread JoelMatthews
 I had the pleasure of meeting Chris at the 2009 NAHBS.. he's exudes a
 great bike vibe and attitude.

Good guy and VO is a good company.  I just do not see him as being a
direct Riv competitor.  GP and Chris believe in steel and are not so
interested in racing.  Otherwise, their niches are pretty distinct to
me anyway.

On Feb 3, 8:14 pm, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey, I'm thrilled that VO is in business...  I think they provide a
 wide variety of great and useful bike frames, parts and products at
 reasonable prices.  I own a Campagne handlebar bag, which I think is a
 quality bag.  Regarding their bike frames, VO seems to have picked up
 where Kogswell left off after Matthew Grimm closed up shop.  I can
 easily envision a VO frame in my future... (or if I have a good year,
 possibly another Riv... oh well)

 I had the pleasure of meeting Chris at the 2009 NAHBS.. he's exudes a
 great bike vibe and attitude.

 On Feb 3, 4:08 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  Jitensha should not be included in a list of me too Riv companies.

  Jitensha has been around for quite some time, possibly longer than
  Riv, though I am not certain on that.  It is a local bicycle store
  operated by a Japanese American that makes Japanese small shop bicycle
  parts available in the United States.  Jitensha has never tried to be
  a mass marketer.  It has an online catalogue, but no on line
  purchasing.  Jitensha rather quaintly shuts down when the owner goes
  to Japan.

  Frankly, I never really saw VO as a me too company for that matter.
  True Riv and VO sell steel bikes and market more toward the commuter/
  tourer than sporting cyclist.  But Riv is and always has been focused
  around GP's rather unique ideas on how a bike should fit and look.
  VO's bikes are admittedly copies of classic French designs.

  The components Riv sells are usually not GP's designs, but rather nice
  stuff Riv finds that seem like good matches for their bikes.  GP will
  usually only get into the component design fray when there is concern
  the components manufacturers will otherwise stop making a useful
  part.  Riv does not distribute much, if any, components to local bike
  shops (heck, it hardly distributes its frames to local bike shops any
  more).

  As with its bikes, VO sells mostly reworked French designs made in
  Taiwan shops under the VO label.  VO sells its components on line, but
  its main business is distributing them to bike shops around the U.S.
  and even abroad.

  On Feb 3, 2:36 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:

   Allen,

   I'm with you, i've been a Rivendell customer going back to 1999 but i
   hadn't bought anything since 2005 until 2010 building up my
   Hillborne.  So all these new sources for what i considered Riv'ish but
   i guess others would use a more generic term, bike parts like Velo
   Orange, Jitensha, etc was a surprise to me.  I don't know how long
   they've been around and i don;t attribute the resurgence of classic
   bike parts to Rivendell (but i'm sure their advocacy didn't hurt).
   But i do wonder how they all interact with each other.

   It's also nice for me to have VO on the east coast as packages come a
   lot faster, and i can drive there in 2 hours in a pinch.  I know some
   people are one or the other, but i don't find them mutually exclusive,
   there are things at VO i would not put on my own bike but that's just
   my style.- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Helmet Cameras Capture Bad Driving

2011-02-02 Thread JoelMatthews
From my view, it appears the banging noise was the van running into
the cyclist.

Even if he did bang on the van, what of it?  The van was forcing him
into road barricades.  Are you saying you would not expect a car to
sound its horn in that situation?

On Feb 1, 9:32 pm, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Banging on the side of the vehicle?  All bets are off at that point,
 you're on your own.



 On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 6:20 PM, Jim Cloud cloud...@aol.com wrote:
  A friend sent me this link to a BBC News UK article.  Interesting
  thought that might be applicable to some who are commuting on a
  regular basis.  Here's the link
 http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-12334486

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-30 Thread JoelMatthews
 ...and the abus monobloc like 
 this:http://bs0.hl-hosting.hu/ter/abus_winner_chain_92w65_lanc_lakat-402.jpg

I have that chain but a different pad lock.  Only downside is the
weight.  Patrick's solution - living the device on a rack you frequent
- is the best if practical where you ride.  Somewhat difficult in my
area because there are so many cyclists and so few racks.

I use the lock and chain on a bike in my storage room.  If a miscreant
ever managed to get through the main door and my room door, h/she
would find an even more formidable security device to defeat.

On Jan 29, 1:29 pm, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:
 ...and the abus monobloc like 
 this:http://bs0.hl-hosting.hu/ter/abus_winner_chain_92w65_lanc_lakat-402.jpg



 On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 1:25 PM, omnigrid omnig...@gmail.com wrote:
  I like this abus padlock:
 http://www.bikeregistry.com/estore/product_info.php?products_id=55os...

  the kryptonite fah mini u-lock can be had on ebay for about 60 bucks w/
  free shipping.

  On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 1:11 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.comwrote:

  Mike -- I'm by no means a security expert and, in fact, even as a
  layman I have relatively little experience because for the last 20+
  years I've been fortunate to have been able to park my bikes in my
  offices (and now, I work from home). So I'm really playing this by the
  seat of my pants (that may be a grossly mixed metaphor -- hear out of
  my ass? Anyway ...) but for my purpose -- short term parking of
  expensive, custom Riv outside well trafficked grocery store in decent
  area, for example -- it ought to be very adequate and it is cheaper
  than buying a Krypto mini.

  I suppose you could smash the padlock with a sledgehammer, but in use
  I think the ensemble would hang off the downtube, held in place by the
  relatively tight link it makes between downtube and whatever post I
  use, so that a thief could not get a good blow in, even if he had the
  privacy to do so.

  I expect a Sawzall could get through the chain, but again, with a lot
  of noise, the need for a second person to hold the chain steady, and
  at least more time than required to slice through a U with a bolt
  cutter. But then a Sawzall could get thru any lock with the right
  postioning, no?

  I expect it is as good as the Krypto Mini 5 which K says is the
  choice of bike messengers) and goes for about $50; is it as good as
  the K NY Fuggedaboutit mini, which one site claimed withstood the
  leverage of 25+ stone of two guys hanging off the shackle on a 4.5'
  bar and which costs over $100.

  On Sat, Jan 29, 2011 at 11:56 AM, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
   Patrick,

   I am really intrigued by this method you've come up with, especially
   after seeing that video of the not-so magnificent 7. While I doubt
   there are too many bicycle thieves walking around with 4-foot
   boltcutters, it's clear your cheapo solution is better than those
   pricey locks.

   The one concern I have is the weak link of that setup, which is
   obviously the cutter-resistant padlock. Even if boltcutters can't mess
   with that, is there another common tool that could easily break the
   padlock? This post has made me semi-somewhat-super paranoid about
   security for my $2500+ RIv, and I don't know what to do.

   Also, has it been confirmed that boltcutters can slice through a
   kryptonite mini with no problem? That's what I'm using now. The price
   is quality defect in my thinking says that this $27 solution couldn't
   possible be good enough, and the $125 Abus Bordo is the best bet
   because it's fancy German engineering.

   Obviously, every lock is vulnerable and it's really about deterrence,
   but alas...

   On Jan 29, 12:22 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
   I'm debating where to leave it -- perhaps at the nearest Sunflower
   market which I ride to 1X a week or so. It's about as small as I can
   make it without compromising use or (wrt lock) security, but at 3lb 3
   oz it's a lb heavier than a large Kryptonite.

   On Fri, Jan 28, 2011 at 7:29 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com
  wrote:
Right crafty of you Patrick.  Abus level security at a fraction of
  the
price.

I wouldn't be surprised if this turned out more rugged than many a
rack or pole you attach it to.

The only thing more secure will be when someone figures out how to
duplicate the alloy Predator used for its lances.  As I recall in
Predator 2 some scientist said it more hard than any known metal yet
was remarkably light.

On Jan 28, 4:12 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
I have a $50 or so Krypto U lock that I bought a few months ago, but
after seeing the video I went to the nearby True Value and got a 20
length of their towing chain and a bolt-cutter resistant padlock,
all for $27 or so. With a length of innertube to cover the chain,
  the
ensemble weighs 3 lb 3 oz, and is just long enough to wrap around

[RBW] Re: game changer dyno hub, bikes, cars, being green etc.

2011-01-29 Thread JoelMatthews
 At what cost though ? Concrete cracks and weathers and weeds grow
 through it  just as it does with asphalt. It costs quite a bit to
 maintain roadways.

A United States spending less money spent on autos and sending  less
money overseas for oil has the money to build better roads for lighter
modes of transit with much left over for the bank.

 Have you ever watched any of those ridiculous doomsday movies that show how 
 New York city would look
 after 1000 years, its amazing what doesn't survive the elements and
 the test of time

No, but I have seen the 2000 year old Roman water reservoir outside
Napoli with cement so intact it could still hold thousands of gallons
of water if it were not such a popular tourist attraction.  Same trip
I walked over the Pons Fabricus (~2,050 years old) and the Pons Aelius
(Ponte St.'Angelo ~1,990) bridges in Roma both of which are still in
everyday use.  Just sayin' Cheers!

On Jan 28, 11:29 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 At what cost though ? Concrete cracks and weathers and weeds grow
 through it  just as it does with asphalt. It costs quite a bit to
 maintain roadways.less autos = less money for maintenance=
 more bicycles with wide tires ! Have you ever watched any of those
 ridiculous doomsday movies that show how New York city would look
 after 1000 years, its amazing what doesn't survive the elements and
 the test of time. Just sayin ! cheers : )

 On Jan 28, 6:21 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   This is part of where I was coming from in that road maintenance can't
   be done without petroleum, at least not good asphalt. And boy do we
   bicyclists love a good road surface.

  Flat out wrong.

  If there were fewer vehicles, we would not need as many streets/roads
  and those we would have would be subject to less stress.  Ergo, we
  could use hardened cement which when done right is both more cush to
  ride on and durable than cheapo asphalt streets.

  On Jan 27, 8:51 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:

   This is part of where I was coming from in that road maintenance can't
   be done without petroleum, at least not good asphalt. And boy do we
   bicyclists love a good road surface.Taking things to the extreme also
   stirs thought and responses so...following the Grok idea to the
   extreme would lead to the most green way of life. Talk about low
   impact on the environment.
   I am aware that transitions from a sophisticated society to a
   primitive one are slower under normal circumstances.  I often think of
   the ancient Egyptians, do we really know how  technologically advanced
   they were? How much do we know of their understanding of medicine and
   science etc. ? How much information has survived of other ancient
   cultures and how sophisticated were they really?
   As an aside we've been on the paleolithic diet for a few weeks, more
   or less and its making a difference and I hope it will pay off when I
   bicycle. I'm definitely down with going electric, automobile wise
   also and may even try a motor on a cargo bike some day since I am a
   full 25 miles from the big city.
   What does this shotgun approach to posting have to do with Rivendell ?
   It seems Grant writes about stuff like this and I enjoy it when he
   does. One thing I do know is that I can hardly wait to get a dyno hub
   and generate my own electricity while bicycling.

   On Jan 27, 6:08 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:

On Jan 27, 10:54 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:

 My brother, you paint too gloomy a picture.  If we run out of fossil
 fuels-there's more than one way skin a cat.  All cars, trucks, trains
 (don't know about planes) will be electric, so buy GE stock early.

You seem to only acknowledge that oil is for burning.  However, oil is
used for far more than burning for energy to power our cars, make
electricity, etc.  For example, almost all plastic and rubber is made
from oil.  Fertilizers that enabled the green revolution (this has
nothing to do with being eco-friendly) are mostly made from fossil
fuel (natural gas), so you are essentially eating oil.  Even fairly
recent innovations like pharmaceuticals are made from organic
compounds that are derived from oil.  This entire world basically runs
on oil, and I'm not only taking transportation.

It is surprising that not more people realize that.  Should we really
be burning however many gallons per mile of this precious resource,
instead of using it for, for example, life-saving drugs or useful
plastic items?

-B- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: game changer dyno hub, bikes, cars, being green etc.

2011-01-28 Thread JoelMatthews
 This is part of where I was coming from in that road maintenance can't
 be done without petroleum, at least not good asphalt. And boy do we
 bicyclists love a good road surface.

Flat out wrong.

If there were fewer vehicles, we would not need as many streets/roads
and those we would have would be subject to less stress.  Ergo, we
could use hardened cement which when done right is both more cush to
ride on and durable than cheapo asphalt streets.

On Jan 27, 8:51 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 This is part of where I was coming from in that road maintenance can't
 be done without petroleum, at least not good asphalt. And boy do we
 bicyclists love a good road surface.Taking things to the extreme also
 stirs thought and responses so...following the Grok idea to the
 extreme would lead to the most green way of life. Talk about low
 impact on the environment.
 I am aware that transitions from a sophisticated society to a
 primitive one are slower under normal circumstances.  I often think of
 the ancient Egyptians, do we really know how  technologically advanced
 they were? How much do we know of their understanding of medicine and
 science etc. ? How much information has survived of other ancient
 cultures and how sophisticated were they really?
 As an aside we've been on the paleolithic diet for a few weeks, more
 or less and its making a difference and I hope it will pay off when I
 bicycle. I'm definitely down with going electric, automobile wise
 also and may even try a motor on a cargo bike some day since I am a
 full 25 miles from the big city.
 What does this shotgun approach to posting have to do with Rivendell ?
 It seems Grant writes about stuff like this and I enjoy it when he
 does. One thing I do know is that I can hardly wait to get a dyno hub
 and generate my own electricity while bicycling.

 On Jan 27, 6:08 pm, benzzoy benz...@yahoo.com wrote:



  On Jan 27, 10:54 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:

   My brother, you paint too gloomy a picture.  If we run out of fossil
   fuels-there's more than one way skin a cat.  All cars, trucks, trains
   (don't know about planes) will be electric, so buy GE stock early.

  You seem to only acknowledge that oil is for burning.  However, oil is
  used for far more than burning for energy to power our cars, make
  electricity, etc.  For example, almost all plastic and rubber is made
  from oil.  Fertilizers that enabled the green revolution (this has
  nothing to do with being eco-friendly) are mostly made from fossil
  fuel (natural gas), so you are essentially eating oil.  Even fairly
  recent innovations like pharmaceuticals are made from organic
  compounds that are derived from oil.  This entire world basically runs
  on oil, and I'm not only taking transportation.

  It is surprising that not more people realize that.  Should we really
  be burning however many gallons per mile of this precious resource,
  instead of using it for, for example, life-saving drugs or useful
  plastic items?

  -B- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Marathon Supremes

2011-01-28 Thread JoelMatthews
 I started on Marathon ?? Plus / Supreme.. the ones with the flat protection
 you could put a thumb tack in without a puncture.

Two different tires.

Marathon plus is the tire with the real thick inner layer:
http://smtp.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_plus_tour

It is designed for people riding in very rugged conditions as one
might find in rural Africa or South America.

The Supreme is a lighter tire made with a special flat resistant
compound:

http://smtp.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/marathon_supreme

It has less rolling resistance than the plus.

 Then I bought my Bombadil with 700x50 Big Apples.. WOW.. why would anyone
 tour on anything less that that?

If you have a bike that can accommodate Big Apples they are definitely
worth considering.  Very comfortable tires.

On Jan 27, 11:04 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 I started on Marathon ?? Plus / Supreme.. the ones with the flat protection
 you could put a thumb tack in without a puncture.
 I first ran these 700x28's on a tour between Boulder Colorado and St Louis
 Mo.  The sold me along the way as I drank coffee and watched friends patch
 tubes from goat heads.  (multiple times daily)  Great story, one of my
 friends took his tire of  to patch the tube and it had six holes in it.    I
 just rode and enjoyed.

 I then went to the 700x35's for the next several tours, all short one week
 things.  I loved the extra stability and the better ride.
 Once again I've never had a flat with these tires.  

 I will continue to use them on tours but they are too heavy for daily riding
 in my opinion.  For daily riding I'm loving the JB's.

 Then I bought my Bombadil with 700x50 Big Apples.. WOW.. why would anyone
 tour on anything less that that?
 Ok why would I (and won't) ever tour on anything less than that.  It's just
 a marvelous feeling loaded up.  Stability, good roll etc.

 So I'll have to see if the Big Apple has the same quality protection or not
 before the next tour.. but I'm just sold on bigger tires period...

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-28 Thread JoelMatthews
Right crafty of you Patrick.  Abus level security at a fraction of the
price.

I wouldn't be surprised if this turned out more rugged than many a
rack or pole you attach it to.

The only thing more secure will be when someone figures out how to
duplicate the alloy Predator used for its lances.  As I recall in
Predator 2 some scientist said it more hard than any known metal yet
was remarkably light.

On Jan 28, 4:12 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have a $50 or so Krypto U lock that I bought a few months ago, but
 after seeing the video I went to the nearby True Value and got a 20
 length of their towing chain and a bolt-cutter resistant padlock,
 all for $27 or so. With a length of innertube to cover the chain, the
 ensemble weighs 3 lb 3 oz, and is just long enough to wrap around the
 front wheel and down tube of one of my customs and have length to
 spare for a narrow post. (These Rivs have small wheels, and since
 there is a larger gap between rim and dt, the chain has to be a few
 inches longer than for a comparable 622 bike.)

 The shop man spent a good 15 minutes cutting my length; he got most of
 the way through, more quickly, with a bench grinder, but had to finish
 the last few mm with a hacksaw. I should have tipped him.

 On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 10:48 PM, Michael Richters





 michael.richt...@gmail.com wrote:
  On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 5:07 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
  claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
  how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
  thievery?

  There are some videos here that might help you decide how secure your chain 
  is:

 http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/

  They are selling something, but the videos are still fairly impressive.

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 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

  CHAIN LOCK.jpg
 56KViewDownload

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[RBW] Re: game changer dyno hub, bikes, cars, being green etc.

2011-01-27 Thread JoelMatthews
 Personally I think a dyno hub is always a good idea, regardless of
 season.  In the summer (even with long days) it simply extends your
 riding and removes daylight limitations... As far as the idea of a
 clutch mechanism

IMO, the clutch mechanism dynohub is a solution looking for a
problem.  The drag on my SON hub bikes is so minimal I never notice
it.

The clutch dyno will almost certainly have more moving parts than a
SON.  Maybe it should not be this way, but seems the more components
that make up a product, the more chance the product will malfunction.
Add to the mix this particular company is looking to compete pricewise
with the entry level dynos.

Time will tell, but I smell a bust.

On Jan 27, 11:10 am, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Personally I think a dyno hub is always a good idea, regardless of
 season.  In the summer (even with long days) it simply extends your
 riding and removes daylight limitations... As far as the idea of a
 clutch mechanism, I haven't been able to noticeably detect drag on
 any of the dynamo hubs I've ridden (Schmidt, Shimano, SRAM and Sturmey-
 Archer).  Then again, I'm not a go-fast rider, nor particularly
 sensitive to riding subtleties, so it would take major drag before I'd
 begin to notice it... not to say others won't feel it... I simply seem
 to be insensitive to it.

 Peace,
 Bobby Ain't feelin' the drag Birmingham

 On Jan 27, 4:43 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:



  I'm looking to get one of the new dyno hubs but can't seem to get a
  firm price. I'd even pay in advance. It will be getting lighter out
  soon so it might be moot for me to even have one until next fall.
  Seems like the timing is a little off on these.
  Bikes and cars yea.what a long discussion all that was, what with
  being green and all..I say its all hogwash. If we do run out of
  fossil fuels you can kiss our roadways goodbye we'll all be walking
  like Grok eventually and society will be back in the stone age. The
  fact is, we humans are too dumb to figure it out from generation to
  generation and we tend to forget the lessons of the past. Its a self
  correcting problem ultimately anyway. If we mess it up so bad that
  life as we know it all falls apart, enough of us will die off and the
  human race can start again in some  primitive way of living. The earth
  will clean itself up atmospherically etc. and our bones will become
  fertilizer for a future Groks vegetable garden. Until then, I intend
  to ride often and live well..yes I recycle and probably live more
  green than most people but I don't think it matters much in the grand
  scheme of things.
  In spite of my general skepticism I do think a generator hub, with a
  clutch that is reliable, is a fine idea and I need lights on my
  bicycle if I am to ride at night.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: game changer dyno hub, bikes, cars, being green etc.

2011-01-27 Thread JoelMatthews
 wholesale arrangement, if they haven't already. Supporting Rivendell with
 your biz is well and good, but there's a case to be made for working with
 your local bike professionals.

Agreed.  Bike light wiring is delicate.

A few years back I did the wiring on my then camping bike.  Second day
of my trip (not having ridden in the dark the first day), I arrived at
Nantucket just at dusk (new moon as well) only to discover the head
light would not work.  Some wiring had come loose while riding.
Nantucket has no street lights outside of the harbor town area.  My
destination was the far side of the Island.  Tired after a long day of
riding, I wound up having to walk the bike for 40 minutes.  Pretty
sure the very competent mechanics at Boulevard Bike would have set the
wiring in place a lot better than I.

On Jan 27, 1:41 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 I should point out that Peter White is THE wholesaler for many of the German
 lighting products, and Rivendell is not the only outfit that sells these
 items at the retail level. We at Hiawatha Cyclery have been selling Schmidt
 hubs/lights, BM lights, etc, since we opened our doors five years ago. If
 you have a LBS you like, they can also get in touch with Peter for a
 wholesale arrangement, if they haven't already. Supporting Rivendell with
 your biz is well and good, but there's a case to be made for working with
 your local bike professionals.

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[RBW] Re: Toyo versus Waterford Atlantis

2011-01-27 Thread JoelMatthews
 For example, are their differences between the acclaimed Toyo and current 
 Waterford forks?

Does Waterford make the Atlantis forks?

Nobilette made the early Waterford Hilsen forks.

On Jan 26, 12:42 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:
 The current Riv Atlantis is built by Waterford.  My original question
 concerned whether, excluding paint, braze ons and probably tubing, the
 Waterford is identical to the Toyo build. This is not questionaing the
 obviously excellent Riv quality, but about subtle specifics of
 interest to velohistorians an bike nerds.  The question remains
 unanswered.  For example, are their differences between the acclaimed
 Toyo and current Waterford forks?  What about subtle bends in the
 chainstay and other tubing?  There must be things that Toyo and
 Waterford do uniquely well.  What are they?

 On Jan 26, 1:19 pm, Ryan ryter...@mts.net wrote:



  As far as I know, Atlantises (Atlanti?) were only Toyo-built. But I'm
  sure that someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

  My impression is that later models...I'm thinking of the AHH in
  particular ...were either Toyo or Waterford-built. And as others on
  this thread have noted, the Sams are either built by Waterford or in
  Taiwan under the supervision of Toyo

  That being said, regardless of the origin, Grant's design philosophy
  and attention to detail are evident...you say tomaytoes and I say
  tomaahtoes . Rivendells are great bikes

  Regards,
  Ryan in Winnipeg,MB

  On Jan 22, 10:34 pm, Bob prov...@umbc.edu wrote:

   How does the Toyo built Atlantis differ in quality and/or geometry
   from the Waterford edition?  Exclude differences in braze-ons,
   kickstand plate and range of sizes.

   In other words, what, if anything, was gained or lost by the change in
   builder?- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: 700c vs. 650b, again

2011-01-26 Thread JoelMatthews
Standover height matters somewhat, but when it comes to proper bike
fit it is pretty far down the list, unless of course your intended use
will see you standing over the top tube a lot as opposed to riding.

When I pick a bike, I look for a size that best fits my riding
position. Factors such as proper leg extension without putting the
seat post too high or low, proper handle bar reach with an average
length and height stem, and being able to mount my chosen saddle in
the middle of its rails all seem a lot more important to me than the
where the top tube is when I stand over it.

If these factors favor the 54, that may be the best choice.  If they
favor the 57, well there you are.

n.b.:  At 5'11 with an 82.5 pbh, most of my bikes have been 58s.  The
right Hilsen for me is the 59.

On Jan 26, 11:21 am, NME nicolemea...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi All,

 This is sort of a goldilocks question and a little bit rambling, so
 please bear with me!

 I just put a deposit down on my first Rivendell, an AHH.  My PBH (81)
 suggests a 54cm (650b).  I test rode a 54, but for some reason, it
 didn't feel quite right -- a little twitchy.  There are about six
 thousand possible reasons for that:  I had never ridden 650b (only
 27), the standover (78.6) was a centimeter shorter than I was used
 to, I hadn't ridden drop bars in 8 years, and the stem seemed very
 high.  Overall, it was a great ride, but somehow not perfect.  Besides
 that, the frame looked (visually, psychologically) too small, somehow.

 They didn't have any 56cm's built up, so I tried a too-big 57cm
 (700c).  Visually, it looks more like the right size, even if my PB
 was touching the top tube (83cm standover) when in bare feet. The ride
 felt more stable, even if the top-tube was too long.  Jay suggested
 that it was perhaps because of the longer wheel base on the 57.

 It's hard for me to explain why the 57 felt better than the 54: was it
 the stem height?  The longer wheel base on the 57?  The larger wheel
 size, which is closer to what I am used to?  The larger frame?  Or was
 it purely psychological because the 54 looked small?

 So now I'm left with a choice:  the 55cm (700c) or the 56cm (650b).
 The standover is virtually identical for both, halfway in between the
 54 and the 57.

 I've never owned a bike with either wheel size, so they are both a
 little abstract for me right now.  I know there have been a lot of
 discussions on this topic before, and this group encouraged at least
 one person to go with the 650b size.

 I'm actually leaning a little toward the 55cm 700c because this bike
 might travel with me to Russia at some point, and I'm not sure about
 the availability of 650b there, and because I am wondering if it was
 the longer wheel base that made the 57 feel better to me.  But I'd
 rather have the right bike, and if that's a 650b bike, then so be it.
 This would all be easier if I could ride both side by side, but that's
 not possible right now.

 What are your impressions about how the two wheel sizes ride
 differently?  Any insight you might have would be great.

 Thanks so much!
 Nicole

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[RBW] Re: SKS Lonboard fenders

2011-01-26 Thread JoelMatthews
 I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
 said they have been discontinued.

Oh that is a pity.  They are very nice fenders.

On Jan 26, 12:15 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Jan 26, 2011 at 1:14 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote:
  I have also heard reports that these have a more rounded profile,
  similar to the Berthoud models, but have not seen them in the flesh
  yet.  Unfortunately the images on universal seem to be computer
  generated.  These could be just the ticket for the roadeo if I had not
  bought into the planet bikes fenders a couple months ago.

 I emailed Peter White about the berthoud SKS fenders last week. He
 said they have been discontinued.

 -sv

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread JoelMatthews
 The Bordo locks are intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

Have you held a Bordo in your hand?  It is German made industrial
strength.  Even if the thief had a high impact power tool (just
happened to be walking down the street with my pneumatic punch) the
rivets are so tough the Bordo would have to be set on something hard
in order for the punch to do anything other than knock the Bordo
around.

Abus are head and shoulders above the competition.

On Jan 26, 2:54 pm, Mike S mikeshalj...@gmail.com wrote:
 I had a feeling that locking to only the wheel could be very
 vulnerable, good to have my paranoia validated!

 I also use the kryptonite mini on my Quickbeam, and lock the frame to
 that (usually rear seat stay, main/seat stay if rack calls for it) in
 addition to using a Pitlock on the front Schmidt dynowheel and
 seatpost. My rear is a 6mm Phil track hub and I usually leave that
 unlocked, but I may look into the previously mentioned anti-theft
 skewer for solid axles. My bike is usually locked up at a college
 campus with low threat potential or other very visible locations where
 it doesn't stay for long.

 The pitlocks are really fantastically well made and I'd highly
 recommend them, despite the high price. The other cheap anti-theft
 device I use by Zefal is low-quality and generally annoying (have to
 turn bike upside down and tap bolt to undo). I use to use the ABUS
 cable locl Riv sells, but I'm almost relieved I lost that as it may
 have provided a false sense of security. The Bordo locks are
 intriguing, but I've hard the rivets are a weak point.

 On Jan 25, 9:43 pm, Mark in Melbourne mbi...@gmail.com wrote:



  I commute in Melbourne, Australia, where I think the risk of theft is
  moderate. I love the Kryptonite Mini, for its strength, size and
  weight, compared to other U locks. I used to use the Sheldon method,
  until I saw this:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9fLtdZyX-A

  I think Sheldon got this one wrong, proving simultaneously that he was
  both human and a God Amongst Men.

  I also use a 6' cable through the wheels and saddle, and if the
  situation warrants, secure this with a separate padlock.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-26 Thread JoelMatthews
Those hardened chains are pretty tough to cut.  After the Portland
NAHBS there was a video demonstrating how hard it is to cut thick
chain with bolt cutters.  Some of the wild and crazy Portlanders
chained their bikes on a barricade or something the hall managers
wanted to keep clear.  The video shows a security guard with big
honking bolt cutters cutting through some U-Locks as though they were
butter.  When he gets to the hardened chain he huffs and puffs but
cannot blow the chain apart.

The down side to hardened chain of course is their weight.  Your
solution is an elegant one, especially if you leave your bike
frequently some place where there is not a lot of competition at the
rack.  I've thought of doing the same here in Chicago.  It would be
great to have that level of protection without having to lug the chain
and lock around.  Problem is unless I beat other riders to the rack,
my chain will be under the wheels of a bunch of other bikes and I
would have to collect it and go looking for another lock.

On Jan 26, 5:07 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I've got various locks of various degrees of security scattered about
 the larger metropolitan area, one of which is a 3' length of super
 hard chain that I bought from True Value for less than $12, plus
 shackle protected lock (it has bolsters that slip over the shackle to
 make it hard for a bolt cutter to fit), all covered in a
 (multi-patched!) section of innertube.

 The chain is very heavy and the man had to cut it with a grinder -- he
 claimed that a bolt cutter will not get through it. Can anyone tell me
 how secure such chains *really* are? And how such locks stand up to
 thievery?

 (The lock is currently looped and lock'd around the pedestal of an
 outdoor table at our church and the lock mech has successfully
 resisted about 12 mos of dirt, water, etc. -- for many months it was
 looped about a tree so that the lock itself was partially buried in
 the surrounding dirt.)

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-25 Thread JoelMatthews
I use the Abus Bordo here in Chicago:  
http://www.lockitt.com/Bicycleproducts.htm#Bordo
6100

The Bordo is flexible, allowing me to lock to the most secure
structure no matter where I ride.  The Bordo holder attaches to water
bottle cage bosses, making it very easy to carry.  The Bordo is
flexible enough that I can usually run it through the front wheel and
the bike frame.  My theory being a rear wheel with fenders, Pitlock
skewer and the derailer make it highly unlikely anyone is going to try
and remove the wheel.  If the area is dicey enough, I will loop a
cable through the rear wheel, saddle and Bordo and lock them all
together.

I use the German Pitlock skewers Peter White sells, not the VO (there
are several other knock off brands as well) knock offs to protect my
wheels.  Pitlock makes a seat lock device, but it only works with a
seat tube collar.

On Jan 25, 12:56 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 So, still too darn cold outside for me but dreaming of spring.  As my
 Hillborne is my first 'nice' bike in forever i've been thinking about
 bike lock options strategies.  I'm asking the collective because part
 of me things, hey this is a nice looking bike better protect it.
 and another part of me is saying hey, this ain't no go-fast flashy
 bike, it's not a target.  so i'm trying to resolve how much i should
 really worry about locking it up, strategies etc.

 In the past i've always just used a simple cable lock, but that's been
 on my cruiser (which while it looks really nice, i didn't consider it
 a theft risk).  As my Hillborne has a few expensive things on it (phil
 rear wheel, nitto racks, etc) i'm a little more inclined to be more
 careful, so what are people's approaches?  U-lock the rear wheel+bike
 to post and then cable to the front wheel?  dual u-locks?  Please keep
 in mind that i need to carry all the locks as well so something like a
 kryptonite nyc chain lock is out of the question.

 If it helps this is for around town riding and that would mostly be in
 and around Washington DC but mostly the suburbs of DC.

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[RBW] Re: RBW style bike security

2011-01-25 Thread JoelMatthews
If you have a solid axle, you need to go with these:

http://www.urbanbiketech.com/category-s/26.htm

On Jan 25, 4:52 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:
 So it sounds like the overall consensus is Pitlock to secure the
 wheels, u-lock to secure the bike with a cable if you need to secure
 the ancillary stuff.

 Does anyone know if the pitlock system works with bolt-on hubs?  my
 phil rear has 6MM bolts securing it instead of a QR.  Anyone done the
 switch in this case?

 On Jan 25, 5:12 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  I use the Abus Bordo here in Chicago:  
  http://www.lockitt.com/Bicycleproducts.htm#Bordo
  6100

  The Bordo is flexible, allowing me to lock to the most secure
  structure no matter where I ride.  The Bordo holder attaches to water
  bottle cage bosses, making it very easy to carry.  The Bordo is
  flexible enough that I can usually run it through the front wheel and
  the bike frame.  My theory being a rear wheel with fenders, Pitlock
  skewer and the derailer make it highly unlikely anyone is going to try
  and remove the wheel.  If the area is dicey enough, I will loop a
  cable through the rear wheel, saddle and Bordo and lock them all
  together.

  I use the German Pitlock skewers Peter White sells, not the VO (there
  are several other knock off brands as well) knock offs to protect my
  wheels.  Pitlock makes a seat lock device, but it only works with a
  seat tube collar.

  On Jan 25, 12:56 pm, Minh mgiangs...@gmail.com wrote:

   So, still too darn cold outside for me but dreaming of spring.  As my
   Hillborne is my first 'nice' bike in forever i've been thinking about
   bike lock options strategies.  I'm asking the collective because part
   of me things, hey this is a nice looking bike better protect it.
   and another part of me is saying hey, this ain't no go-fast flashy
   bike, it's not a target.  so i'm trying to resolve how much i should
   really worry about locking it up, strategies etc.

   In the past i've always just used a simple cable lock, but that's been
   on my cruiser (which while it looks really nice, i didn't consider it
   a theft risk).  As my Hillborne has a few expensive things on it (phil
   rear wheel, nitto racks, etc) i'm a little more inclined to be more
   careful, so what are people's approaches?  U-lock the rear wheel+bike
   to post and then cable to the front wheel?  dual u-locks?  Please keep
   in mind that i need to carry all the locks as well so something like a
   kryptonite nyc chain lock is out of the question.

   If it helps this is for around town riding and that would mostly be in
   and around Washington DC but mostly the suburbs of DC.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-21 Thread JoelMatthews
 That being said, there are a lot more factors, incentives, and
 advantages about commuting by bicycle in a place like Holland and it's
 easy to see why we can't have that here.

With Chinese and Indian fuel consumption pushing gas prices up, it
will not be long before U.S. prices are within spitting distance of
the Netherlands'.   Overall U.S. population density is lower than the
Netherlands.  But more than half of the U.S. population are in its 10
largest metropolitan areas.

Long and short, if we do not find solutions soon, the car dependant
among us are going to be paying more than half their income on fuel.

On Jan 21, 9:12 am, jlvota jlv...@ilstu.edu wrote:
 What you have to consider about Holland is that gasoline there is the
 equivalent of around $7.91/gallon (one of the highest in Europe) and
 they have a much different tax system that allows massive funding to
 public transit.  They have a progressive income tax rate that peaks at
 52% (down from 60% a few years ago), a corporate tax that peaks at
 25.5% and a sales tax that peaks at 19%.

 That being said, there are a lot more factors, incentives, and
 advantages about commuting by bicycle in a place like Holland and it's
 easy to see why we can't have that here.

 On Jan 19, 7:26 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:



  Wow, that's a good read.    Cars and bikes both are vehicles, in the
  same way that a Glock and a Squirtgun are both guns is a kind of
  potent analogy right now, however imprecise analogies may be.

  The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
  of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
  something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
  to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
  try to be be more active in trying to help change happen here, which
  i'm woefully not and just riding a bike doesn't really do
  anything.     It seems futile riding a bike for 'green' reasons, or
  because you think it's right thing to do-- even if you do it for those
  reasons--   and it's easy to end up suppressing frustration at the
  status quo, but reading stuff like this always brings it back to the
  surface, which is probably a good thing.    um I doubt that makes any
  sense. which means it's probably too early for me to be typing right
  now.   yesterday's ride home west of boston was a slush-ice
  nightmare.   Thank god for studded tires but even they were out of
  their league.     we were expecting some weather, but if i knew it
  would be that bad I would've stayed home.

  On Jan 18, 7:23 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

   There's an interesting editorial on rivbike right now about how bikes 
   aren't the same as cars.

   It reminds me of something I often remember when teaching students: the 
   idea that doing what's right and fair for a kid is sometimes not the same 
   thing for any two given kids.

   -Jim W.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Idaho Stop in NYC

2011-01-20 Thread JoelMatthews
Thanks Grant.  I did not see the conflict between your editorial and
BSNYC's post.

The point is that laws and cycling behavior is best suited when it
conforms to the locale.  Insisting cyclists scrupulously come to a
full stop at a rural intersection no matter the traffic volume is
silly.  On the other hand, cyclists riding willy-nilly in NYC,
downtown Chicago, of SF for that matter are a menace not only to auto
traffic but always present pedestrians and fellow cyclists.

On Jan 20, 12:47 am, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 It doesn't make sense in NYC which is why it's the Idaho Stop. When
 traffic is thick, the drivers are mean, and you're expected to stop,
 you better stop. The key to the success of the Idaho Stop is that
 Idaho Drivers are kept on their toes, and there's just less traffic
 there. I rode a big ol' group ride in Boise a couple of years ago, and
 was thrilled with the sparseness of traffic. The I.S. worked great. I
 bet it would work in other places too, but in NYC maybe they'd just
 hit you. Maybe the next place to try it should be Omaha and Iowa and
 Ohio---to complete the Four Same-sounders. Any of those would be
 better than NYC (or SF, for that matter).
 G

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[RBW] Re: Idaho Stop in NYC

2011-01-20 Thread JoelMatthews
 I think the Idaho stop makes sense EVERYWHERE that it makes sense.

Who decides where it makes sense?  Unfortunately there are many urban
riders who appear to think an Idaho stop makes sense if traffic with
the right of way theoretically can brake fast enough to avoid T-boning
or rear ending them.

In busy cities like New York (there are many places in Manhattan with
traffic even at 3:00 a.m. - not called the city that never sleeps for
nothing) affording people the liberty to decide generally descends
into chaos.  Even if only 1 in 10 rider is a jerk, the numbers are
dense enough that you have a lot of jerks.

On Jan 20, 12:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think the Idaho stop makes sense EVERYWHERE that it makes sense.  In
 Manhattan, at 3AM, when there's not another car on the road, Idaho
 stop YES!  In Couer d'Alene Idaho, when you approach a stop sign with
 a long line of cars waiting in the crossing direction, Idaho stop NO!
 I think the comment that missed the mark was BSNYC's.  I think he too
 would advocate, and practices, the Idaho stop when the situation calls
 for it.  But his comment was more of a hardline.  There are many
 traffic signals that aren't triggered by bikes.  The left turn lane
 from Industrial Parkway to Dixon that takes me to the South Hayward
 BART station won't trigger with a bike.  When I'm out in that left
 turn lane, I can wait 3, 4, 5 green light cycles, and the left turn
 arrow will never trigger unless a car gets in the left turn lane with
 me.  I'd be stuck there for hours, or be forced to dismount, scamper
 across and hit the WALK button.  Instead I do a version of the Idaho
 stop, and treat a green light as an unprotected left and get on with
 my life.  According to BSNYC's comment yesterday, I break the law when
 I do that and should stop.  I think Grant and I are in the same boat
 on this.  Use your brain, do what is safe and makes sense for the
 situation.

 On Jan 19, 10:47 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:



  It doesn't make sense in NYC which is why it's the Idaho Stop. When
  traffic is thick, the drivers are mean, and you're expected to stop,
  you better stop. The key to the success of the Idaho Stop is that
  Idaho Drivers are kept on their toes, and there's just less traffic
  there. I rode a big ol' group ride in Boise a couple of years ago, and
  was thrilled with the sparseness of traffic. The I.S. worked great. I
  bet it would work in other places too, but in NYC maybe they'd just
  hit you. Maybe the next place to try it should be Omaha and Iowa and
  Ohio---to complete the Four Same-sounders. Any of those would be
  better than NYC (or SF, for that matter).
  G- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: European Hillborne Tour

2011-01-20 Thread JoelMatthews
Check out crazyguyonabike.com  A lot of journals and a very active q 
a forum.

On Jan 20, 10:57 am, Adam oceanm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Greetings All,

 I am planning a European tour for about a month this summer on my
 Hillborne.  I have quite a few questions and wonder if anyone here
 knows of a more on-topic list serve to direct my questions towards.

 Cheers,
 Adam

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[RBW] Re: Idaho Stop in NYC

2011-01-20 Thread JoelMatthews
 Regarding the many urban riders, the other part of Grant's editorial
 that hasn't come up was the notion that bad apple riders ignoring
 the traffic laws somehow ruins it for the rest of us.  Grant called
 that notion into question, and I think he has a good point.  It caused
 me to rethink the ire I feel for delinquent riders who blow through
 stop signs in traffic.  I definitely don't approve of it, but now I'm
 not so sure that it somehow reflects poorly on me.

Well, I certainly do not think miscreant riders (or people who wear
spandex while riding ; ) ) reflect on me personally either.  It does
not make me think less of the person who pulls out of a side road or
in front of me against a light forcing me to take evasive action.
Especially on streets where my options are avoiding the bike or
avoiding a car.

On Jan 20, 1:16 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 For the record, I'm not an anarchist.  I'll repeat what I said:  In
 Manhattan, at 3AM, when there's not another car on the road, Idaho
 stop YES!  If there are cars on the road, then you are in traffic,
 follow the traffic laws.  That's what makes sense.

 ANY situation where there are ZERO other vehicles of any kind, I
 advocate cyclists treating stop signs and red lights as yield signs.
 ANY situation where there are ANY other vehicles of any kind, I
 advocate cyclists treating stop signs as stop signs and red lights as
 red lights.

 I expect in Manhattan, this will very rarely come up, but it's not
 never.

 When there is not another car on the road, and I'm stopped at the red
 light, and it does not change to green because my bike doesn't have
 the mass to trigger the magnetic sensor, you are telling me that going
 ahead and riding on will cause society to generally descend into
 chaos?  Of course it won't.  That's as far as I take it.

 Regarding the many urban riders, the other part of Grant's editorial
 that hasn't come up was the notion that bad apple riders ignoring
 the traffic laws somehow ruins it for the rest of us.  Grant called
 that notion into question, and I think he has a good point.  It caused
 me to rethink the ire I feel for delinquent riders who blow through
 stop signs in traffic.  I definitely don't approve of it, but now I'm
 not so sure that it somehow reflects poorly on me.

 On Jan 20, 10:55 am, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



   I think the Idaho stop makes sense EVERYWHERE that it makes sense.

  Who decides where it makes sense?  Unfortunately there are many urban
  riders who appear to think an Idaho stop makes sense if traffic with
  the right of way theoretically can brake fast enough to avoid T-boning
  or rear ending them.

  In busy cities like New York (there are many places in Manhattan with
  traffic even at 3:00 a.m. - not called the city that never sleeps for
  nothing) affording people the liberty to decide generally descends
  into chaos.  Even if only 1 in 10 rider is a jerk, the numbers are
  dense enough that you have a lot of jerks.

  On Jan 20, 12:25 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

   I think the Idaho stop makes sense EVERYWHERE that it makes sense.  In
   Manhattan, at 3AM, when there's not another car on the road, Idaho
   stop YES!  In Couer d'Alene Idaho, when you approach a stop sign with
   a long line of cars waiting in the crossing direction, Idaho stop NO!
   I think the comment that missed the mark was BSNYC's.  I think he too
   would advocate, and practices, the Idaho stop when the situation calls
   for it.  But his comment was more of a hardline.  There are many
   traffic signals that aren't triggered by bikes.  The left turn lane
   from Industrial Parkway to Dixon that takes me to the South Hayward
   BART station won't trigger with a bike.  When I'm out in that left
   turn lane, I can wait 3, 4, 5 green light cycles, and the left turn
   arrow will never trigger unless a car gets in the left turn lane with
   me.  I'd be stuck there for hours, or be forced to dismount, scamper
   across and hit the WALK button.  Instead I do a version of the Idaho
   stop, and treat a green light as an unprotected left and get on with
   my life.  According to BSNYC's comment yesterday, I break the law when
   I do that and should stop.  I think Grant and I are in the same boat
   on this.  Use your brain, do what is safe and makes sense for the
   situation.

   On Jan 19, 10:47 pm, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:

It doesn't make sense in NYC which is why it's the Idaho Stop. When
traffic is thick, the drivers are mean, and you're expected to stop,
you better stop. The key to the success of the Idaho Stop is that
Idaho Drivers are kept on their toes, and there's just less traffic
there. I rode a big ol' group ride in Boise a couple of years ago, and
was thrilled with the sparseness of traffic. The I.S. worked great. I
bet it would work in other places too, but in NYC maybe they'd just
hit you. Maybe the next place to try it should

[RBW] Re: New Berthoud twenty six inch X 40 mm fenders installed on '03 Riv custom commuter

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
Clearly a minority opinion, but I prefer Berthoud over Honjos.  That
is a good looking, no-nonsense bike.

On Jan 18, 5:50 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 http://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#55636760480658...

 They don't look bad, but I would have preferred a new pair of 559
 Honjos which seem very elusive after Jitensha stopped carrying them.
 The Berthouds are 1/4 lb heavier, complete with flap, than the Honjos,
 ditto, and they are slightly narrower, which helps even up the
 aesthetic balance. The tires are 22 (actual) mm 559 Turbos which I run
 because I can't find anything else nearly as supple -- yes, I've tried
 Paselas and don't like them.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
Liked the editorial, but disagree with one of GP's points.

I gave up cars completely and flying for all but work and emergencies
6 years ago because they are such wasteful modes of transit.  To me it
is a green choice.  I realize my actions mean very little with most
here in Chicago wtill in cars and O'Hare handling so much unnecessary
flying.

I believe my choices are the correct ones.  So I follow my conscious,
whether it fixes the planet or not.

On Jan 19, 7:26 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
 Wow, that's a good read.    Cars and bikes both are vehicles, in the
 same way that a Glock and a Squirtgun are both guns is a kind of
 potent analogy right now, however imprecise analogies may be.

 The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
 of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
 something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
 to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
 try to be be more active in trying to help change happen here, which
 i'm woefully not and just riding a bike doesn't really do
 anything.     It seems futile riding a bike for 'green' reasons, or
 because you think it's right thing to do-- even if you do it for those
 reasons--   and it's easy to end up suppressing frustration at the
 status quo, but reading stuff like this always brings it back to the
 surface, which is probably a good thing.    um I doubt that makes any
 sense. which means it's probably too early for me to be typing right
 now.   yesterday's ride home west of boston was a slush-ice
 nightmare.   Thank god for studded tires but even they were out of
 their league.     we were expecting some weather, but if i knew it
 would be that bad I would've stayed home.

 On Jan 18, 7:23 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:



  There's an interesting editorial on rivbike right now about how bikes 
  aren't the same as cars.

  It reminds me of something I often remember when teaching students: the 
  idea that doing what's right and fair for a kid is sometimes not the same 
  thing for any two given kids.

  -Jim W.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 Dept of Consumer Protection (or whomever) had mandated this so that
 bio-fuels didn't get a competitive advantage(!).  .

Any support for this, other than a comment by someone with a financial
stake in keeping the prices higher?

 Lastly, so there is no confusion, I respect the gentleman's right to
 follow his conscience.  He is free and right to do so, as long as what
 he does, does not pee in the water upstream from where others drink.

How can that even be a worry based on my comments?  There is no way my
decision to give up a car in Chicago (and btw, I have a 15 minute bike
ride to the CTA train here on the Northwest Side of the city) has a
negative impact on any car drivers.  On the other hand, whether one
accepts climate change or not, there can be no argument fossil fuel
use has a far reaching negative impact.  Is your point peeing upstream
only matters when the pee-er is in the decided minority?

On Jan 19, 8:14 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Living where I live in New England, cycling year round is impractical,
 plus for my business, I have to be places, sometimes from Boston, to
 Hartford, to Brattlebor all in the same day.

 To that end, I needed to able to carry things, people, plow my
 driveway when needed etc.,  So I dive a 4 dr Dodge diesel pick-up.
 Earlier in it's life I was able to buy B100 (pure veg diesel fuel),
 and in colder whether, down to around 30 deg, I'd run B-20 (20% of
 same).  Below that only traeted fuel will work w/o the dreaded gelling
 that occurs.

 A funny thing started coming to my attention.  Every time the price of
 dino diesel went up, Bio-fuels went up so they were always slightly
 higher.  When I asked why, my Bio-fuel dealer told me that the state
 Dept of Consumer Protection (or whomever) had mandated this so that
 bio-fuels didn't get a competitive advantage(!).  I gave up at that
 point.  I commute (35 miles one-way) when I can, drive when I need to
 and do what's necessary to make a living.

 I've spent time in Evanston IL, just off the Red Line (I think) and
 never drove anywhere, even caught the train out to O'hare.  Pretty
 nice but that will never, ever happen in this day of NIMBY.  People
 won't allow it.  But if not for that system, those residents would be
 driving also, without a doubt.

 As stated in another thread, I'm hoping I see the day when there is no
 more fuel oil, coal etc., available-use it all up as fast as you can,
 be glutenous in your consumption.  We'll then get nukes, and
 everything will be electric.  Without those reliable sources of power,
 which solar/wind will never provide, we
 re screwed anyway.  That goes for the rest of the world.  Nobody in a
 developing country thinks about 50 years down the road, that's a
 luxury we have in the U.S., Europe, etc.  BTW, the reason the Euro's
 can put money into bike lanes, alt trans projects, etc., is because
 they don't have much of a defense budget-we do that for them!!!  Think
 about it, U.S. bases all over Europe, and trust me, the governments
 want us there to do that heavy lifting.

 Lastly, so there is no confusion, I respect the gentleman's right to
 follow his conscience.  He is free and right to do so, as long as what
 he does, does not pee in the water upstream from where others drink.

 Sorry, a bit long.

 RGZ



 On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 8:51 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Liked the editorial, but disagree with one of GP's points.

  I gave up cars completely and flying for all but work and emergencies
  6 years ago because they are such wasteful modes of transit.  To me it
  is a green choice.  I realize my actions mean very little with most
  here in Chicago wtill in cars and O'Hare handling so much unnecessary
  flying.

  I believe my choices are the correct ones.  So I follow my conscious,
  whether it fixes the planet or not.

  On Jan 19, 7:26 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
  Wow, that's a good read.    Cars and bikes both are vehicles, in the
  same way that a Glock and a Squirtgun are both guns is a kind of
  potent analogy right now, however imprecise analogies may be.

  The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
  of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
  something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
  to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
  try to be be more active in trying to help change happen here, which
  i'm woefully not and just riding a bike doesn't really do
  anything.     It seems futile riding a bike for 'green' reasons, or
  because you think it's right thing to do-- even if you do it for those
  reasons--   and it's easy to end up suppressing frustration at the
  status quo, but reading stuff like this always brings it back to the
  surface, which is probably a good thing.    um I doubt that makes any
  sense. which means it's probably too early for me to be typing right
  now

[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 BTW, the reason the Euro's can put money into bike lanes, alt trans projects, 
 etc., is they don't have much of a
 defense budget-we do that for them!!!  Think about it, U.S. bases all over 
 Europe, and trust me, the governments
 want us there to do that heavy lifting.

What are highways free?  Perhaps it could be European civil engineers
made a conscious decision to focus on mass transit transit over
automobiles.  The Red Line costs much less to make and maintain, and
uses less backyard space (you know, for the NIMBY's) than Lake Shore
Drive.  Indeed if there was no Red Line, the traffic jams going
through Rogers Park would be third world miserable.

Suggest also you google some of the many pieces out there by civil
engineers who posit the U.S. could in fact create a great mass transit
system on the bones of the Interstates.



On Jan 19, 8:14 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Living where I live in New England, cycling year round is impractical,
 plus for my business, I have to be places, sometimes from Boston, to
 Hartford, to Brattlebor all in the same day.

 To that end, I needed to able to carry things, people, plow my
 driveway when needed etc.,  So I dive a 4 dr Dodge diesel pick-up.
 Earlier in it's life I was able to buy B100 (pure veg diesel fuel),
 and in colder whether, down to around 30 deg, I'd run B-20 (20% of
 same).  Below that only traeted fuel will work w/o the dreaded gelling
 that occurs.

 A funny thing started coming to my attention.  Every time the price of
 dino diesel went up, Bio-fuels went up so they were always slightly
 higher.  When I asked why, my Bio-fuel dealer told me that the state
 Dept of Consumer Protection (or whomever) had mandated this so that
 bio-fuels didn't get a competitive advantage(!).  I gave up at that
 point.  I commute (35 miles one-way) when I can, drive when I need to
 and do what's necessary to make a living.

 I've spent time in Evanston IL, just off the Red Line (I think) and
 never drove anywhere, even caught the train out to O'hare.  Pretty
 nice but that will never, ever happen in this day of NIMBY.  People
 won't allow it.  But if not for that system, those residents would be
 driving also, without a doubt.

 As stated in another thread, I'm hoping I see the day when there is no
 more fuel oil, coal etc., available-use it all up as fast as you can,
 be glutenous in your consumption.  We'll then get nukes, and
 everything will be electric.  Without those reliable sources of power,
 which solar/wind will never provide, we
 re screwed anyway.  That goes for the rest of the world.  Nobody in a
 developing country thinks about 50 years down the road, that's a
 luxury we have in the U.S., Europe, etc.  BTW, the reason the Euro's
 can put money into bike lanes, alt trans projects, etc., is because
 they don't have much of a defense budget-we do that for them!!!  Think
 about it, U.S. bases all over Europe, and trust me, the governments
 want us there to do that heavy lifting.

 Lastly, so there is no confusion, I respect the gentleman's right to
 follow his conscience.  He is free and right to do so, as long as what
 he does, does not pee in the water upstream from where others drink.

 Sorry, a bit long.

 RGZ



 On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 8:51 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Liked the editorial, but disagree with one of GP's points.

  I gave up cars completely and flying for all but work and emergencies
  6 years ago because they are such wasteful modes of transit.  To me it
  is a green choice.  I realize my actions mean very little with most
  here in Chicago wtill in cars and O'Hare handling so much unnecessary
  flying.

  I believe my choices are the correct ones.  So I follow my conscious,
  whether it fixes the planet or not.

  On Jan 19, 7:26 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
  Wow, that's a good read.    Cars and bikes both are vehicles, in the
  same way that a Glock and a Squirtgun are both guns is a kind of
  potent analogy right now, however imprecise analogies may be.

  The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
  of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
  something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
  to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
  try to be be more active in trying to help change happen here, which
  i'm woefully not and just riding a bike doesn't really do
  anything.     It seems futile riding a bike for 'green' reasons, or
  because you think it's right thing to do-- even if you do it for those
  reasons--   and it's easy to end up suppressing frustration at the
  status quo, but reading stuff like this always brings it back to the
  surface, which is probably a good thing.    um I doubt that makes any
  sense. which means it's probably too early for me to be typing right
  now.   yesterday's ride home west of boston was a slush-ice
  nightmare.   Thank god

[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 You get the health benefits of cycling:  less fat, better cardiovascular 
 health, stronger muscles, better bones, a better  brain.  As someone who 
 works with the elderly, those benefits are not to be sneezed at.

You are also saving your fellow tax payers money.  Bikes have minimal
infrastructure needs.

On Jan 19, 8:47 am, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 On Jan 19, 2011, at 7:26 AM, newenglandbike wrote:

  The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
  of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
  something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
  to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
  try to be be more active in trying to help change happen here, which
  i'm woefully not and just riding a bike doesn't really do
  anything.

 Sure riding a bike makes a difference.  If you're riding a bike in place of 
 driving a car, you're keeping about 1.1 pounds of carbon dioxide out of per 
 mile out of the atmosphere (if you have a ten mile round trip, that's about 
 2200 pounds of CO2 per year).  And that's only one greenhouse gas!

 You're an example to others, especially if you're not dressed like Alberto 
 Contador *and* you look like you're having fun.  Someone may see you and say 
 hey, that looks like fun.  I could do that.  We've got examples of that on 
 this very list, and it changed their lives for the better.  (ow, here in 
 Minnesota when non-cyclists see cyclers going down the street with 3 foot 
 snowbanks and it's -10F, they just shake their heads and turn the heaters up 
 in the car.  You can't have everything, I suppose).

 You get the health benefits of cycling:  less fat, better cardiovascular 
 health, stronger muscles, better bones, a better brain.  As someone who works 
 with the elderly, those benefits are not to be sneezed at.

 In short a bike is a miracle machine.  It can save your life, improve your 
 quality of life, improve your health, improve America's energy security, 
 reduce the costs of road construction and maintenance, reduce pollution, 
 reduce long range health care costs... it's patriotic to ride a bike.  When 
 you're out there, you are a shining example to others whether they are 
 looking or not.

 Have a great ride!

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 and then there is organized bike rides that have 100's of people driving
 many miles to ride a bike a short distance then drive back home.  In St
 Louis, Mo Trailnet has one of these type rides weekly.  I would wager a
 single weekend ride here wipes out all the progress the comuters make in one
 day.

Not an issue for me as I neither have a car nor have any desire to
participate in group events.  All my rides are door to door (that is,
I start and stop the ride at my door)

 Cycling has many uses and is wonderful .. but riding just for green reasons
 is or would be weak for me.   I ride because I like riding.

I got rid of my car for green reasons.  I certainly enjoy riding my
bike.

On Jan 19, 9:10 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 and then there is organized bike rides that have 100's of people driving
 many miles to ride a bike a short distance then drive back home.  In St
 Louis, Mo Trailnet has one of these type rides weekly.  I would wager a
 single weekend ride here wipes out all the progress the comuters make in one
 day. Not saying don't comute, just saying I don't see cycling as green. It's
 entertainment for most folks or exercise but also an excuse / reason to
 drive thier cars many more miles.

 Cycling has many uses and is wonderful .. but riding just for green reasons
 is or would be weak for me.   I ride because I like riding.

 Kelly

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[RBW] Re: tweed knit sweaters are coming back!

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 Also am hoping they actually do arrive.  Will order at least one,
 mebbe two.  With a huge caveat - depends on the actual sizing of the
 item.  Hopefully XL will be made.  And hopefully it isn't starving
 Italian XL.

I think the reason Riv dropped them is the original manufacturers (as
I understand a couple working literally out of a cottage in rural
Englad) retired.  Presumably Riv found a new manufacturer so prior
sizing will be no guide.

For what it is worth my Woolywarm Cardigan is larger than I expected.
Not a problem as I can wear it over a a shirt and light sweater on
winter nights with my thermostat at 55.

On Jan 19, 9:26 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Also am hoping they actually do arrive.  Will order at least one,
 mebbe two.  With a huge caveat - depends on the actual sizing of the
 item.  Hopefully XL will be made.  And hopefully it isn't starving
 Italian XL.

 Used to wear wool/tweed sweaters back in college.  Would like to do so
 again, if for no other reason to honor the memory of a friend.

 Hopefully, the sizing won't be too bad.  While I love the cowboy
 shirts, they are only good for me as an over-shirt with rolled up
 sleeves.  Both the arms and side cuts are too short.  (But then again,
 if I were to get back to losing weight, it might not be as much an
 issue.)

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jan 18, 11:10 pm, Beth H periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:



  My in-laws gifted me with a WW vest when they were still available. I
  wear the crap out of it. The neck is great when I don't feel like
  taking along a scarf, and folds down out of the way when I'm not so
  cold. It has holes in it and the corner of the rear pocket sags a
  little lopsidedly. I will probably wear it until it shreds.

  I got a cardigan shortly after it came out. Two days after it arrived,
  my sister's cat (who has a thing for wool -- anyone ever heard of this
  in cats?) ATE a 2-inch chunk from the cuff. I repaired it badly using
  wool yarn and a small-diameter crochet hook (I don't know how to knit
  and probably couldn't have gotten it that fine anyhow). It looks funky
  but the sweater is my daily too-cold-in-the-morning garment while I
  sip coffee and read the news. After work, I slip it on again in the
  evening. Sort of like Mister Rogers.

  I've got two and I'm all set; but if you have not owned WW tweedies
  before and can afford one now, buy one when they come back. You'll
  like it.

  Meanwhile, I am waiting for the return of the Wooly Warm jersey (with
  the button placket!) and heavier-weight trainer. A girl can dream.
  Beth- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 And I didn't really read anything in the article that said those were
 mutually exclusive.  The main point seemed to be that the people who would
 adopt cycling because of green-ness alone are more of an outlier.  Getting
 people to act on goals which potentially play out over generations is not
 easy.  It's not the wiring we've demonstrated, historically.

Well, I guess I need to clarify.

For whatever reason, I pretty much stopped riding bikes after grad
school and my first 10 years of my career.  About 10 years ago I
started cutting down on energy use around the home and in my travels.
As part of that effort, I decided to take up cycle camping.  On my
first trip I recalled how much I liked to ride.  The two trains of
thought morphed into my eventual decision to give up my automobile
altogether.

I am very much aware my decision process on this makes me an outlier.

On Jan 19, 11:01 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 1/19/11 8:04 AM, JoelMatthews at joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  Cycling has many uses and is wonderful .. but riding just for green reasons
  is or would be weak for me.   I ride because I like riding.

  I got rid of my car for green reasons.  I certainly enjoy riding my
  bike.

 And I didn't really read anything in the article that said those were
 mutually exclusive.  The main point seemed to be that the people who would
 adopt cycling because of green-ness alone are more of an outlier.  Getting
 people to act on goals which potentially play out over generations is not
 easy.  It's not the wiring we've demonstrated, historically.

 Monday was the 50th anniversary of Eisenhower's Military-Industrial
 Complex farewell address speech, the bulk of which is way OT, but there's
 always been a part of that I've kept written down:

 Another factor in maintaining balance involves the element of time. As we
 peer into society's future, we -- you and I, and our government -- must
 avoid the impulse to live only for today, plundering for our own ease and
 convenience the precious resources of tomorrow. We cannot mortgage the
 material assets of our grandchildren without risking the loss also of their
 political and spiritual heritage. We want democracy to survive for all
 generations to come, not to become the insolvent phantom of tomorrow.

 I quote that here to recognize that we still have that challenge before us.
 An adversarial relationship to those who are not in agreement with us, or
 acting the way we feel they should, does little to move things toward the
 greater good.  

 It's always about the ride.  About exuding the spirit of why we ride.  That
 is what we share implicitly and overtly when we show up at work or the store
 astride a bicycle. You never know who it will affect or how.

 - J

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 You must be the change you want to see in the world.
     Mahatma Gandhi

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 My second comment is actually a vote of support for you not a criticism.

My apologies for misunderstanding.

On Jan 19, 10:56 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 Chill my brother  The oil lobby has obviously earned it's money.
 It sucks but it's a reality of life everywhere on this planet.

 My second comment is actually a vote of support for you not a criticism.



 On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 9:38 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Dept of Consumer Protection (or whomever) had mandated this so that
  bio-fuels didn't get a competitive advantage(!).  .

  Any support for this, other than a comment by someone with a financial
  stake in keeping the prices higher?

  Lastly, so there is no confusion, I respect the gentleman's right to
  follow his conscience.  He is free and right to do so, as long as what
  he does, does not pee in the water upstream from where others drink.

  How can that even be a worry based on my comments?  There is no way my
  decision to give up a car in Chicago (and btw, I have a 15 minute bike
  ride to the CTA train here on the Northwest Side of the city) has a
  negative impact on any car drivers.  On the other hand, whether one
  accepts climate change or not, there can be no argument fossil fuel
  use has a far reaching negative impact.  Is your point peeing upstream
  only matters when the pee-er is in the decided minority?

  On Jan 19, 8:14 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
  Living where I live in New England, cycling year round is impractical,
  plus for my business, I have to be places, sometimes from Boston, to
  Hartford, to Brattlebor all in the same day.

  To that end, I needed to able to carry things, people, plow my
  driveway when needed etc.,  So I dive a 4 dr Dodge diesel pick-up.
  Earlier in it's life I was able to buy B100 (pure veg diesel fuel),
  and in colder whether, down to around 30 deg, I'd run B-20 (20% of
  same).  Below that only traeted fuel will work w/o the dreaded gelling
  that occurs.

  A funny thing started coming to my attention.  Every time the price of
  dino diesel went up, Bio-fuels went up so they were always slightly
  higher.  When I asked why, my Bio-fuel dealer told me that the state
  Dept of Consumer Protection (or whomever) had mandated this so that
  bio-fuels didn't get a competitive advantage(!).  I gave up at that
  point.  I commute (35 miles one-way) when I can, drive when I need to
  and do what's necessary to make a living.

  I've spent time in Evanston IL, just off the Red Line (I think) and
  never drove anywhere, even caught the train out to O'hare.  Pretty
  nice but that will never, ever happen in this day of NIMBY.  People
  won't allow it.  But if not for that system, those residents would be
  driving also, without a doubt.

  As stated in another thread, I'm hoping I see the day when there is no
  more fuel oil, coal etc., available-use it all up as fast as you can,
  be glutenous in your consumption.  We'll then get nukes, and
  everything will be electric.  Without those reliable sources of power,
  which solar/wind will never provide, we
  re screwed anyway.  That goes for the rest of the world.  Nobody in a
  developing country thinks about 50 years down the road, that's a
  luxury we have in the U.S., Europe, etc.  BTW, the reason the Euro's
  can put money into bike lanes, alt trans projects, etc., is because
  they don't have much of a defense budget-we do that for them!!!  Think
  about it, U.S. bases all over Europe, and trust me, the governments
  want us there to do that heavy lifting.

  Lastly, so there is no confusion, I respect the gentleman's right to
  follow his conscience.  He is free and right to do so, as long as what
  he does, does not pee in the water upstream from where others drink.

  Sorry, a bit long.

  RGZ

  On Wed, Jan 19, 2011 at 8:51 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
   Liked the editorial, but disagree with one of GP's points.

   I gave up cars completely and flying for all but work and emergencies
   6 years ago because they are such wasteful modes of transit.  To me it
   is a green choice.  I realize my actions mean very little with most
   here in Chicago wtill in cars and O'Hare handling so much unnecessary
   flying.

   I believe my choices are the correct ones.  So I follow my conscious,
   whether it fixes the planet or not.

   On Jan 19, 7:26 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:
   Wow, that's a good read.    Cars and bikes both are vehicles, in the
   same way that a Glock and a Squirtgun are both guns is a kind of
   potent analogy right now, however imprecise analogies may be.

   The point about bicycle culture/laws in Holland, and the reasonability
   of incentives for commuting in a safe, non-polluting manner is
   something that's resonated with me for a long time.   Sometimes I long
   to move to a place like that, but then I wonder why shouldn't I just
   try to be be more active

[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
 Interesting that within 24 hours of one another Grant lauds the
 benefits of the Idaho-stop and Bike Snob NYC instructs cyclists to
 follow the letter of the law, especially stopping at all red lights.

Did not read BSNYC but coming from one who does most of his riding in
a densely populated urban area, I can understand the different take on
traffic signals.

It is one thing to obey traffic signals only when vehicles are present
in predominately rural Idaho - or suburban and semi-rural East SF Bay
for that matter.  It is another altogether in dense urban areas where
vehicles, pedistrians and other bikes are always present.

Some of my closest calls of late have been with other cyclists who
oblivious to traffic signals and basic right of way principals ride
directly into my path or in front of me.  Some have even given me the
owned glower when I apply the brakes heavily to avoid them.  By far
the worst was last fall when a dad with a daughter on a bike trailer,
boy on small bike close behind, and wife taking up the rear all blew
through a stop sign on a small street directly in front of me on a
larger street that had no stop sign.  I had to jump onto the curb to
avoid hitting the boy.  Mom gave me an apologetic look.  Dad never
even turned around to see what happened.

On Jan 19, 12:33 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 Interesting that within 24 hours of one another Grant lauds the
 benefits of the Idaho-stop and Bike Snob NYC instructs cyclists to
 follow the letter of the law, especially stopping at all red lights.

 On Jan 19, 10:10 am, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:



  on 1/19/11 9:25 AM, JoelMatthews at joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

   I am very much aware my decision process on this makes me an outlier.

  And I wholeheartedly applaud your efforts and actions, Joel.

  Full stop.

  - J

  --
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net

  Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
  Current Classics - Cross Bikes
  Singlespeed - Working Bikes

  Gallery updates now appear here -http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com

  That which is overdesigned, too highly specific, anticipates outcome; the
  anticipation of outcome guarantees, if not failure, the absence of grace.

  William Gibson - All Tomorrow's Parties- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Tourin Saddle - Initial impression

2011-01-19 Thread JoelMatthews
Welcome to the club.  I am fairly confident you will appreciate the
saddle long term.

Perfect color for your Atlantis too.

On Jan 19, 7:18 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Yesterday my new Berthoud Touring saddle arrived from Wallingford Bikes.
 Natural color, Cro-Moly rails. I installed it last night and rode it today
 to work (and Caltrain) to see whether it would feel as expected from the
 other list members' feedback or not.

 I have to say that the initial impression is awesome. Feels just like a
 saddle should, and compared the the B17 I had previously is just no
 comparison at all. The width is perfect, the flat top is exactly what I was
 looking for to do away with the B17's significantly nose-up position to
 prevent sliding forward, and more significantly, the feeling that there
 isn't any excess material rubbing my inner thighs or anywhere else for that
 matter; just my seatbones perfectly suspended.

 The color is really beautiful; somewhere between the Brooks honey and
 antique brown, but you can see from the photos that it matches very well
 with either (honey Brooks tape on the Atlantis handlebar) as well as with
 the Sackville leather bits.

 I did some minor tweaks, basically sliding it forward to the mid-rail
 position as I had initially mounted it as far back as it would go but found
 that my knees were too far back for optimal pedaling. I angled it upwards as
 well to prevent from sliding forward but by no means is the angle or the
 nose anywhere near what I had to do with the B17. I'll get a better feel for
 the new position on the ride home tonight and whether it puts more pressure
 on my hands or not.

 I expect to get more acquainted with the saddle by the weekend and if so,
 expect to see a number of various Brooks saddles (mostly B17) to be put up
 for sale. I'll need to be able to finance another Berthoud saddle for the
 Homer... :-)

 Initial photos can be viewed here: *http://tinyurl.com/4fuczwh*

 René

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[RBW] Re: New pictures of my Bombadil

2011-01-18 Thread JoelMatthews
Swapped out the Bullmoose bars for these Sycip Singles Bar, found my
old Specialized branded Dirtdrop stem. This bar is so much more
versatile and comfortable than the Bullmoose bars I could never get
my
hands comy on them, I figure it had to do with the fixed rear-upward
angle.

How about flexibility of the Singles Bars?  I speced a pair for a
custom.  They look great but there is enough give in them I am
wondering if perhaps Albatross bars would be a better choice.

On Jan 17, 4:04 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hey Guys,

 Here are some updated pics of my Bombadil after much tinkering,
 experimenting and of course plenty of saddle time. Everything
 functions wonderfully.

 Swapped out the Bullmoose bars for these Sycip Singles Bar, found my
 old Specialized branded Dirtdrop stem. This bar is so much more
 versatile and comfortable than the Bullmoose bars I could never get my
 hands comy on them, I figure it had to do with the fixed rear-upward
 angle. As you can see I have these bars rear-downward which feels much
 more natural. Decided I would run the thumbshifters under the bar so I
 would have more hand positions, they function near perfect except when
 I am trying to shift into the lowest gear in the rear its a little
 awkward but im used to it now and doable just a little stretch to do
 it. Of course now the rear shifter is now on the left and the front on
 the right, my brain doesnt have a preference, im totally fine with it.
 I then added the orange tape (yellow would have been better) and
 shellacked and twined the whole thing together its about 4/5 coats of
 shellac. Also twined the chainstay and shellacked that too.

 Added the Suntour Superbe pedals and they are much better to me than
 the MKS touring pedals I had.

 Swapped the Quasi-Moto tires for the Fatty Rumpkins since im not
 riding in the dirt and was planning on fenders which are the VO
 Zeppelin model that are used but not too abused. The fenders had
 several holes from the previous owner that I covered up with Foil
 tape, I also used a small strip on the seatpost to remind me of my
 usual saddle height.

 You can also see that I now have one of the Nitto R cages and a
 Electra Ticino cage, they look exactly the same.

 My favorite mod was running the Bell on the exposed threads of the
 Canti brake hanger. Its a little forward of where you traditionally
 would run it but I can reach my finger easily to the striker which is
 pointing up, the position keeps it out of the way which I like.

 I also had to swap out the headset which was pitted out from being run
 loose, the new headset is one of the really awesome Cane Creek 100
 threaded units which are I think even nicer than a Chris King.

 I was also running the VO 1st gen brakes but got tired of them cause
 there was no toe-in adjustment and no spring adjustment. They stopped
 great but squeeled like crazy and one side of the brke arm on the
 front always ran too close to the rim. These Shimano brakes are pretty
 fiddly but I really appreciate the adjustments and was able to get
 them set-up perfectly.

 And last but not least I bought a pair of the Paul brake levers cause
 they are so sexy.

 The only thing I need now is a front rack, then the build will be
 complete. I still havent figured out which one I want. Kinda like the
 VO porteur rack, but im not settled on that yet. Oh yeah then I need
 bagsit never ends, ah the fun.

 Other upgrades I would like to do: Paul brakes, Swap out the hubs for
 White industries or I have some 8spd DuraAce hubs that I could respace
 to 135mm. Maybe I should just get some rims and build a second set of
 wheels...well see. I would finally like to get a set of the VO 50.4mm
 172.5mm cranks in a 46/30 config.

 http://tinyurl.com/49vzwzg

 Any Thoughts?

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[RBW] Splats are back ...

2011-01-18 Thread JoelMatthews
And yes I put my order in for a pair before coming on and sharing with
the group ;)

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[RBW] Re: Rivbike Editorial of Jan. 18

2011-01-18 Thread JoelMatthews
 VO says 50-90% less drag

Even if true, all relative.

I have a bike with a Scmidt Dyno, one with a Maxicar front hub, and
another with Campy Record.  When the lights are off, there is no
noticeable drag.

Sure it may be cheaper then a Schmidt.  But then as anyone who buys a
Rivendell ought to know, sometimes paying a little more means getting
a whole lot more.

On Jan 18, 7:12 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 .and Grant referred to the game-changer dynamo hub.  Presumably
 the same hub that Velo Orange has been talking up.  If Riv and VO are
 talking about the same part, then it's a dynamo hub that allows you to
 totally disengage the dynamo mechanism when you aren't using the
 light, so a lot less drag.  VO says 50-90% less drag.  I'm not sure
 what that means to actually feeling it when riding with the lights
 off, but it's also less than half the price of a Schmidt.
 Interesting.

 On Jan 18, 4:23 pm, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:



  There's an interesting editorial on rivbike right now about how bikes 
  aren't the same as cars.

  It reminds me of something I often remember when teaching students: the 
  idea that doing what's right and fair for a kid is sometimes not the same 
  thing for any two given kids.

  -Jim W.

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[RBW] Re: tweed knit sweaters are coming back!

2011-01-18 Thread JoelMatthews
I am wearing my woolywarm cardigan right now.  Very warm and
comfortable.  Going on 4 years old and holding up well.

On Jan 18, 9:00 pm, manueljohnacosta manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
 I want a cardigan. Teachers should all have cardigans! with leather
 elbow pads!

 On Jan 18, 6:31 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:



  Yay!

  from the knothole:

  Many of you know about the old Tweed knit sweater-things, and will be
  happy to know that we'll have these in again. Some changes, bound to
  disappoint anybody who likes a thing more when it's no longer
  available, but from the standpoint of view from where I sit, the
  changes will be improvements. Probably a pullover, definitely the
  cardigan, and a vest-again, for now.

  I'm thrilled. I bought one from Chris's Garage sale and I love it. I
  want another one and I want a cardigan.

  Grant, if you're reading this: when can I preorder one?

  -sv

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[RBW] Re: Splats Video

2011-01-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Sure hope Riv has a big re-order in place.  I want my pair!

On Jan 14, 9:20 am, cyclofiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Drizzly Thursday commute and a quick bit o' editing...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclofiend/5353558271/

 Enjoy  Ride Safe!

 - Jim

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

2011-01-09 Thread JoelMatthews
 I have QR skewers in my Sam because I often put it in or on vehicles,
 and often have my wheels off when I'm messing with bike parts for fun.
 They are handy for that.

As long as one keeps ones tools handy, it is not all that much faster
to remove a tire with a quick release skewer than one with a Pitlock.
I take my pitlock and bolted solid axle Maxicar wheels off
frequently.  Well under a minute to do so.

On Jan 8, 6:43 pm, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
 I use VO skewers on my commuter. Truth is, you are only relying on the
 skewer to thwart opportunistic thiefs.
 If you have a $1500 wheelset that a pro wants, he'll get it. Pitlock
 or not. It probably just as easy for them to take the whole bike.
 I have QR skewers in my Sam because I often put it in or on vehicles,
 and often have my wheels off when I'm messing with bike parts for fun.
 They are handy for that.

 On Jan 8, 3:52 pm, Travis travisbreitenb...@gmail.com wrote:



  I own both Pitlock and VO skewers. There is no comparison of course. I
  don't know why, but the VO skewers have sort of a knurled surface on
  the outside, so it looks like they could be opened with a good set of
  pliers. Also, keys for those hex-pin bolts can be had at most hardware
  stores. I'd say the VO skewer provides just a tad more security than
  an allen bolt skewer. I use mine on a wheel which I wouldn't really
  mind replacing because it's nearing the end of it's useful life
  anyway.

  The Pitlock design is really much further advanced than any other
  locking skewers out there. I see two ways to defeat it, but they
  require quite a bit of ingenuity. I live in NYC and use them on a
  decent wheelset. I have enough faith in them that I lock only my frame
  which is tremendously freeing. I carry one of the Pit keys on a large
  key ring with my keys and this gives me just enough torque to adjust
  them if needed. Also, I use them on a bike with horizontal drop-outs
  even though you're not supposed to. It's been holding up fine. Of
  course, this bike has a freewheel - I would not try this with a SS/
  fixed set-up.

  Travis

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

2011-01-09 Thread JoelMatthews
 That pretty much scared me off of Pitlocks.   Although if you live in
 more temperate climates (or are better at maintenance) they are a nice
 choice. (Also don't like only two keys.  Prefer three.  One to carry,
 one for the shop, one in house as spare.)

Not sure anyone has ever referred to Chicago as temperate.  I have
never had winter issued removing Pitlocks in the cold.  They are made
and popular in Germany which has its share of winter cold.

On Jan 8, 6:05 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 A cover might get me to use Pitlock again.  Have two sets.  Ran them
 on both my Hillborne and my LHT.  On the latter, which is my winter
 bike, the Pitlock started to seize.  Had a devil of a time removing
 the wheel one time.  There was no obvious rust in the system.

 That pretty much scared me off of Pitlocks.   Although if you live in
 more temperate climates (or are better at maintenance) they are a nice
 choice. (Also don't like only two keys.  Prefer three.  One to carry,
 one for the shop, one in house as spare.)

 Have also used the Zefal QR (that Riv used to sell).  Those had a
 different problem.  If I cranked the cam down tight, the pin wouldn't
 always dislodge.  Scared me nigh on half to death one time trying to
 fix a flat.  That was also in winter.  Could easily have been a
 binding issue between two different materials.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jan 8, 4:07 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  I use Pitlocks on my bike with hollow axle hubs.  They are good
  looking, well made and fairly easy to remove, provided you remember to
  bring your coded pit socket.

  Not sure if PJW sells them, but Urban Bike Tech in Canada sells nice
  caps for the pit side so you can have a really clean look.

  On Jan 8, 12:32 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

   I need a pair of skewers for my next build - using Phil/Riv hubs.
   Looking for a nice clean design, and no plastic. Anyone have
   experience with Pitlock?

   Marty- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

2011-01-09 Thread JoelMatthews
 Shimano skewers are nearly impossible to beat mechanically. Any
 internal cam wins over external.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

When I last used skewers, I went with these by Hope:
http://www.mtbr.com/cat/tires-and-wheels/skewer/hope/skewers/PRD_354342_146crx.aspx

They seemed to work well.  After that I built up a wheel with MaxiCar
hubs which have a solid axle that use nut attachments.  As I say
above, it kind of opened my eyes to what little difference having a
nutted axle over skewers meant from a maintenance and time
perspective.

To each their own.  I have no problem with a preference for skewers.
Outside of racing where I hear every fraction of second is critical,
there is not much difference between wrenching a wheel on and off and
pulling a skewer.

I attach the MaxiCar 14 mm socket to a sliding bar socket holder:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904428000P?prdNo=6blockNo=6blockType=G6
which is light and easy to carry with my ride tool set.  The pitlock
pit fits in a socket as well.

On Jan 8, 5:42 pm, Mojo gjtra...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Shimano skewers are nearly impossible to beat mechanically. Any
 internal cam wins over external.http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

 On Jan 8, 11:32 am, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:



  I need a pair of skewers for my next build - using Phil/Riv hubs.
  Looking for a nice clean design, and no plastic. Anyone have
  experience with Pitlock?

  Marty

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[RBW] Re: Skewers?

2011-01-08 Thread JoelMatthews
I use Pitlocks on my bike with hollow axle hubs.  They are good
looking, well made and fairly easy to remove, provided you remember to
bring your coded pit socket.

Not sure if PJW sells them, but Urban Bike Tech in Canada sells nice
caps for the pit side so you can have a really clean look.

On Jan 8, 12:32 pm, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 I need a pair of skewers for my next build - using Phil/Riv hubs.
 Looking for a nice clean design, and no plastic. Anyone have
 experience with Pitlock?

 Marty

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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-08 Thread JoelMatthews
 My question is, put delicately, how many, if any. like the Berthoud because 
 it is French, and, how many dislike it because it is French. Anyone?

 JimP

Jim:

Berthoud is definitely a company very much in the French tradition -
small, family run, not necessarily concerned about being the biggest
or fastest to market.  at least in my opinion anyway, they make nice
stuff.

The Berthoud saddle does not look all that much like Ideale the
classic French saddle I and some other posters mention.  It is a
unique design whether that means it is uniquely French, I could not
say.


On Jan 7, 12:24 pm, jim phillips thefamil...@hotmail.com wrote:
 My question is, put delicately, how many, if any. like the Berthoud because 
 it is French, and, how many dislike it because it is French. Anyone?

 JimP



  Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 10:10:11 -0800
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring
  From: leec...@gmail.com
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

  Joel and Clayton:

  I noticed that the rails appear a bit narrower on the Berthoud Aspin
  than on a B-17. Did you have to force the rails out a little to get it
  to fit your seatpost clamp? What seatposts have you tried with the
  Apsin?

  Thanks,
  Lee
  San Francisco, CA

  On Jan 7, 9:42 am, Clayton Scott clayton...@gmail.com wrote:
   I have been using b.17s for while, but got frustrated when I burnt through
   my last one in 7 months and went ahead and purchased a Berthoud touring
   saddle.
   I have only been using it for 2 months now but so far so good. It is a
   little narrower than a b.17 but not in a bad way. Still has enough
   room accommodate my sitbones. The shape seems perfect for me.
   The craftsmanship is stunning compared to Brooks.
   Compared to the now incredibly saggy brooks it does feel a lot firmer. I 
   did
   ride a 200k permanent within a few weeks of owning it and toward the end I
   did have to ride out of the saddle occasionally to give my slightly
   protesting sitbones some relief. It was not agonizing and only started
   setting in during the last few miles but was noticeable and distracting
   nevertheless. (Still significantly better than having the metal frame of 
   the
   b.17 dig into me though.). So far the Berthoud is perfect for up to a 100
   miles and I expect it to get even more comfortable as the saddle and I get
   more used to eachother.
   I purchased mine from Rene Herse Bicycles who lets you try the saddle for 
   60
   days and return it if you don't like it. I suggest you give it try.

   Best,
   Clayton Scott
   SF, CA

   On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 9:29 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and 
 didn't
 work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
 aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

My favorite Ideales are the 4 and 6 (the lightly sprung city
saddles).  I think the aluminum frame Ideale used made for a more
comfortable spring base than the heavier Brooks.

Unfortunately, the leather is somewhat thin on them and they tend to
need frequent tightening.  Wonder if Berthoud will ever try and copy
that model?

On Jan 7, 10:29 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2011-01-07 at 08:12 -0800, JoelMatthews wrote:
  Unless you have an Ideale that has been well maintained - or stored 
  in
  optimal conditions - it is not going to be as comfortable, work as
  well, or last as long as a modern Brooks or Berthoud.

 I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and 
 didn't
 work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
 aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-07 Thread JoelMatthews
I could never get comfortable on a B-17 or any of the Fizik saddles so
tried the Berthoud more out of desperation than anything.  Right out
of the box I had an opportunity to do an ~500 mile trip.  No
discomfort at all.

As for appearance, I prefer Berthoud to the Brooks.  The Berthoud
shape is less pronounced.  In my opinion, Brooks has a very strong
silhouette that pulls the eye away from the lines of the bicycles.  No
problem, obviously, if you like the Brooks shape.  I am not as
enamored as some other riders .

Some of the comments to the linked review mention Ideale saddles.  I
collected Ideale over the years.  I have since sold most but still
have two in the display case.  They are lovely pieces of history.
Certainly an Ideale will match well with a correct restoration.
Unless you have an Ideale that has been well maintained - or stored in
optimal conditions - it is not going to be as comfortable, work as
well, or last as long as a modern Brooks or Berthoud.

On Jan 6, 11:40 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can anyone provide how the Berthoud Touring Saddles would compare to a B17
 saddle? I own B17 saddles but have never ridden a Berthoud one.

 Thanks,

 René

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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-07 Thread JoelMatthews
 I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and didn't
 work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
 aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

My favorite Ideales are the 4 and 6 (the lightly sprung city
saddles).  I think the aluminum frame Ideale used made for a more
comfortable spring base than the heavier Brooks.

Unfortunately, the leather is somewhat thin on them and they tend to
need frequent tightening.  Wonder if Berthoud will ever try and copy
that model?

On Jan 7, 10:29 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Fri, 2011-01-07 at 08:12 -0800, JoelMatthews wrote:
  Unless you have an Ideale that has been well maintained - or stored in
  optimal conditions - it is not going to be as comfortable, work as
  well, or last as long as a modern Brooks or Berthoud.

 I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and didn't
 work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
 aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

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[RBW] Re: Saddle comparison - Brooks B17 vs. Berthoud Touring

2011-01-07 Thread JoelMatthews
 I noticed that the rails appear a bit narrower on the Berthoud Aspin
 than on a B-17. Did you have to force the rails out a little to get it
 to fit your seatpost clamp? What seatposts have you tried with the
 Apsin?

Lee:

The rails may be more narrow.

One Berthoud is mounted on a CLB post. I do not remember much of an
issue mounting on that one.  The other CLB is on a Thomson Masterpiece
(I know - have heard it before - seat post and saddle cost more than
many an entire bike!).  The TM is very precisely engineered.  It took
some finagaling to get the Berthoud atop it.

To Beth's point - definitely more flat than the B-17.  If you like the
B-17 this may be Berthoud deal killer.  For me, it appears to be a
plus.  As everyone's body and ride style are unique it is good to have
options.

On Jan 7, 12:10 pm, Lee leec...@gmail.com wrote:
 Joel and Clayton:

 I noticed that the rails appear a bit narrower on the Berthoud Aspin
 than on a B-17. Did you have to force the rails out a little to get it
 to fit your seatpost clamp? What seatposts have you tried with the
 Apsin?

 Thanks,
 Lee
 San Francisco, CA

 On Jan 7, 9:42 am, Clayton Scott clayton...@gmail.com wrote:



  I have been using b.17s for while, but got frustrated when I burnt through
  my last one in 7 months and went ahead and purchased a Berthoud touring
  saddle.
  I have only been using it for 2 months now but so far so good. It is a
  little narrower than a b.17 but not in a bad way. Still has enough
  room accommodate my sitbones. The shape seems perfect for me.
  The craftsmanship is stunning compared to Brooks.
  Compared to the now incredibly saggy brooks it does feel a lot firmer. I did
  ride a 200k permanent within a few weeks of owning it and toward the end I
  did have to ride out of the saddle occasionally to give my slightly
  protesting sitbones some relief. It was not agonizing and only started
  setting in during the last few miles but was noticeable and distracting
  nevertheless. (Still significantly better than having the metal frame of the
  b.17 dig into me though.). So far the Berthoud is perfect for up to a 100
  miles and I expect it to get even more comfortable as the saddle and I get
  more used to eachother.
  I purchased mine from Rene Herse Bicycles who lets you try the saddle for 60
  days and return it if you don't like it. I suggest you give it try.

  Best,
  Clayton Scott
  SF, CA

  On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 9:29 AM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and didn't
work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

   My favorite Ideales are the 4 and 6 (the lightly sprung city
   saddles).  I think the aluminum frame Ideale used made for a more
   comfortable spring base than the heavier Brooks.

   Unfortunately, the leather is somewhat thin on them and they tend to
   need frequent tightening.  Wonder if Berthoud will ever try and copy
   that model?

   On Jan 7, 10:29 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On Fri, 2011-01-07 at 08:12 -0800, JoelMatthews wrote:
 Unless you have an Ideale that has been well maintained - or stored in
 optimal conditions - it is not going to be as comfortable, work as
 well, or last as long as a modern Brooks or Berthoud.

I had an Ideale when it was new and it wasn't as comfortable and didn't
work as well as a B.17.  It was one of those with the integral wide
aluminum rails and the built-in micro-adjusting clamp.

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[RBW] Re: Moment of Arggghhh!

2010-12-21 Thread JoelMatthews
True enough.

Although my superstitious part keep telling me that buying back up
jinxed the installation.

Frankly, the knock-offs feel as though they will grip better.

On Dec 20, 9:53 pm, williwoods willh...@yahoo.com wrote:
 at least you had a stashed replacement. gotta love backup.

 On Dec 20, 7:36 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:



  Last summer I lucked into a very nice set of NOS traditional Campy
  brake levers with apparently very supple gum rubber hoods.

  Installing the brake cable tonight, the right side hood slid off and
  back on over the top of the hood perfect.  When I went to slide the
  right side back, disaster.  Split wide open.  No amount of rubber
  cement is going to put it back together.

  I have a set of the gummed rubber knock-offs.  Guess they will look
  alright - Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Moment of Arggghhh!

2010-12-20 Thread JoelMatthews
Last summer I lucked into a very nice set of NOS traditional Campy
brake levers with apparently very supple gum rubber hoods.

Installing the brake cable tonight, the right side hood slid off and
back on over the top of the hood perfect.  When I went to slide the
right side back, disaster.  Split wide open.  No amount of rubber
cement is going to put it back together.

I have a set of the gummed rubber knock-offs.  Guess they will look
alright 

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[RBW] Re: A blinding glimpse of the obvious......

2010-12-14 Thread JoelMatthews
Thanks for the link.

While the author does not describe the hubs on either bike, he does
point out the plastic bike had lighter and obviously more expensive
wheels than the steel (obviously as the entire steel bike cost him 50
pounds).

Appears there are modest hills on his commute.  Not sure about this
area of the UK, but where I rode I noticed pretty quickly that while
British hills may not be the highest in the world, they sure can be
steep.

On Dec 14, 11:02 am, cyclotour...@gmail.com cyclotour...@gmail.com
wrote:
 Here's the original article in the BMJ:  
 http://tinyurl.com/23d7pmjorhttp://www.bmj.com/content/341/bmj.c6801.full?sid=da3c0aec-7122-47d1-...

 On Dec 14, 8:14 am, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:



  In this case it's more of a riding style than the bike.  As much as we
  would like to ignore or minimize the speed difference weight and
  equipment makes, it does exist.
  Even if in most cases it's areodynamics.

  1 2 or 3 mph average speed is nothing right? It could still add up to
  15 percent if you averaged 20mph.  Now if that 20 mph is your max and
  you're on the edge all the time then every mph is critical and
  expensive and tough to obtain.    If you're riding with friends,
  comuting etc and just rolling along you will gravitate to a speed by
  feel and especially on flat ground the two bikes won't make much
  difference. but the heavier bike would sustain speed a bit better with
  momentum.   So if the effort or heartrate etc isn't part of the
  equation do to plenty being in researve and it's a leisure ride /
  comute.. those are the results I would expect.

  On Dec 14, 9:15 am, MKahrl mkah...@gmail.com wrote:

   Do you think some unintentional bias was causing him to ride harder on
   the steel bike in order to keep the same time?  If so, it was
   remarkably consistent over the course of 56 rides and nearly 1500
   miles.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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