Re: [RBW] Re: cycling attire for cold rain

[Mat Grewe]

Whoops, mean to add that I've never experimented with neoprene on a bike, 
it is curious thing and I wonder about the ability to be warm at the 30 
degree rains.  I've done some scuba diving and there were special tricks to 
keep yourself feeling warm, namely peeing in your wetsuit...  There was an 
old saying amongst divers, "there are two types of scuba divers, those that 
pee in their wetsuit and those that *admit *to peeing in their wetsuit."

On Tuesday, March 21, 2023 at 4:20:51 PM UTC-5 Mat Grewe wrote:

> Acclimation is a big help.  Coming out of winter in Wisconsin (gets to -20 
> F), a 30-40 degree rainy commute this time of year is not as bad as it is 
> in the fall.  I recommend cold showers to get used to the feeling ;).
>
> You should have something on the outside to at least block the wind.  This 
> minimizes the "cold wind + soaked clothes" death effect.  Mostly waterproof 
> jackets and pants truly are a treat, but I've been drenched in a cold rain 
> plenty of times with an awful "rain jacket" to know that having something 
> to at least block the wind is key.
>
> Good underlayers also help.  I always use a fishnet base layer on my upper 
> body (Bryne is the brand) and some kind of wool or synthetic sweater over 
> that.  Double or triple layer of real wool socks and mittens (with shoes 
> and overmitts that block the wind).  The wet takes a lot out of you, so 
> don't feel shame in overdressing.
>
> Eat more food at more frequent intervals than normal to keep your body 
> fueled and able to generate heat.
>
> I sort of jest with the statement, "gotta get used to it," but honestly, 
> that is what you have to do as there is no such thing as warm and dry 
> during a 35 degree rain.  Days like those make the sun feel extra glorious!
>
> On Tuesday, March 21, 2023 at 2:33:07 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:
>
>> That is a great idea. The rain/air would exchange heat far less than the 
>> ocean, so I would imagine that even if you are wet underneath that you 
>> would remain quite toasty. 
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 20, 2023 at 8:32 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>
>>> That's interesting, I might give some a shot this spring. I get the 
>>> feeling that much colder than low 40's would be too cold for most Neoprene 
>>> options but I don't really know. Usually when it's 45+F I am pretty happy 
>>> with wool and a shell that's at least waterproof enough to keep the 
>>> majority of water out - not much ends up being truly waterproof in those 
>>> conditions.  I can certainly believe that the water-going folks are onto 
>>> something though. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, 17 March 2023 at 07:39:34 UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:
>>>
>>>> Folks on this board might already have this information, but it was a 
>>>> revelation to me.
>>>>
>>>> It was 48 and heavily raining on, Tuesday I think, riding from Goleta 
>>>> to Oxnard, CA. We (my son and I) were uncomfortably cold, with many miles 
>>>> to go.
>>>>
>>>> We came upon a surfing shop. I know nothing about surfing or scuba, but 
>>>> I bought the socks, gloves, and a hat that surfers wear with their 
>>>> wetsuits. Wow, what a game changer. We were instantly comfortable. For 
>>>> heavy rain in cold weather, neoprene is great for cycling. 
>>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2a914a44-47f6-4a21-945b-21fa656275can%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: cycling attire for cold rain

[Mat Grewe]

Acclimation is a big help.  Coming out of winter in Wisconsin (gets to -20 
F), a 30-40 degree rainy commute this time of year is not as bad as it is 
in the fall.  I recommend cold showers to get used to the feeling ;).

You should have something on the outside to at least block the wind.  This 
minimizes the "cold wind + soaked clothes" death effect.  Mostly waterproof 
jackets and pants truly are a treat, but I've been drenched in a cold rain 
plenty of times with an awful "rain jacket" to know that having something 
to at least block the wind is key.

Good underlayers also help.  I always use a fishnet base layer on my upper 
body (Bryne is the brand) and some kind of wool or synthetic sweater over 
that.  Double or triple layer of real wool socks and mittens (with shoes 
and overmitts that block the wind).  The wet takes a lot out of you, so 
don't feel shame in overdressing.

Eat more food at more frequent intervals than normal to keep your body 
fueled and able to generate heat.

I sort of jest with the statement, "gotta get used to it," but honestly, 
that is what you have to do as there is no such thing as warm and dry 
during a 35 degree rain.  Days like those make the sun feel extra glorious!

On Tuesday, March 21, 2023 at 2:33:07 PM UTC-5 ttoshi wrote:

> That is a great idea. The rain/air would exchange heat far less than the 
> ocean, so I would imagine that even if you are wet underneath that you 
> would remain quite toasty. 
>
> Toshi
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 20, 2023 at 8:32 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>
>> That's interesting, I might give some a shot this spring. I get the 
>> feeling that much colder than low 40's would be too cold for most Neoprene 
>> options but I don't really know. Usually when it's 45+F I am pretty happy 
>> with wool and a shell that's at least waterproof enough to keep the 
>> majority of water out - not much ends up being truly waterproof in those 
>> conditions.  I can certainly believe that the water-going folks are onto 
>> something though. 
>>
>> On Friday, 17 March 2023 at 07:39:34 UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:
>>
>>> Folks on this board might already have this information, but it was a 
>>> revelation to me.
>>>
>>> It was 48 and heavily raining on, Tuesday I think, riding from Goleta to 
>>> Oxnard, CA. We (my son and I) were uncomfortably cold, with many miles to 
>>> go.
>>>
>>> We came upon a surfing shop. I know nothing about surfing or scuba, but 
>>> I bought the socks, gloves, and a hat that surfers wear with their 
>>> wetsuits. Wow, what a game changer. We were instantly comfortable. For 
>>> heavy rain in cold weather, neoprene is great for cycling. 
>>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Trail friendly front fender

[Mat Grewe]

Ha, it's not that admirable really...  I am wa too easily distracted 
(case in point, I should be working, but am responding to a bike forum), so 
minimizing the tech in my home is the only way I can get anything done!!  
Fabricating this fender took far longer than it ought to have simply 
because I was living at my brother's house (with internet) so I could work 
remote during the early phases of COVID.  Thankfully my office opened back 
up in August last year for the handful of folks like me so I could move 
back home and get back to bike commuting instead of sitting on my tush 
binging on Star Wars and pizza...

Mat
Quarantined in the big city of St. Paul, MN, but gleefully back off the 
grid in the rolling hills of the Driftless Region in Southwest WI
On Monday, June 21, 2021 at 9:06:59 AM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I admire your indifference to digital technology. I must use it for my 
> work, though I am more thoroughly enmeshed in it that I need be, but every 
> time the developers come up with a new and "improved" OS or application, I 
> curse the added complexity that adds little if any benefit (like increasing 
> the steps to 4 to put an email message or text message in the trash, or 
> "hover" windows that block what you are typing just to give you information 
> you don't need).
>
> But again, very well done fender alternative.
>
> On Sun, Jun 20, 2021 at 5:17 PM Mat Grewe  wrote:
>
>> Ha, I actually have no camera that takes clear photos (old laptop and 
>> cheap flip phone, both unworthy cameras).  These were taken by a friend who 
>> was honing in on just the fenders.  So it may be a while before full bike 
>> photos for this machine exist.  And when I am away from internet (don't 
>> have internet at home) and these conversations, I don't seem to remember to 
>> get a photo...
>>
>> The bike was built to also have room for wider knobbies.  Unfortunately 
>> the builder messed up a couple things in the rear triangle, so I am limited 
>> to 50mm tires instead of the requested 57mm, although the front has the 
>> clearance I requested.  I'm fine with it really, I pretty much only run 
>> 50mm slick tires anyway, at least in the summer.  I still may put on a 
>> wider knobbie front tire if I end up doing a longer off-road tour, but I 
>> really have had no issue riding rough roads with 50mm slicks.  Winter I do 
>> put on studded, lightly knobbed tires.
>>
>> My old bike had well installed Honjo fenders with 25-30mm clearance and I 
>> had numerous issues, even with slicks: the afore mentioned cowpies, leafs 
>> and mud, snow/ice buildup, and a stick flipped up into the spokes of my 
>> front wheel and nearly collapsed the front fender.  Thankfully that didn't 
>> happen, but the stays still got bent and required a fix.  Na, even with 
>> slicks I am supremely happy with the homebrew front fender.  And I forgot 
>> to mention, it wasn't my idea.  I got the idea from a MTB forum where the 
>> guy made it out of coroplast and zip ties, but this is arguably stronger 
>> and more elegant than what the MTB poster deemed "fugly."
>>
>> Mat
>> Driftless Wisconsin
>>
>> On Saturday, June 19, 2021 at 1:19:46 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> That's both clever and well done. I've made similar "splash guard" 
>>> systems, though much cruder, for various mountain bikes using black plastic 
>>> and zip ties; protection is not as good as with "real" fenders but far 
>>> better than clip-on shorties or nothing.
>>>
>>> Will you please post the obligatory right-side profile photo, valves at 
>>> 12 o'clock and cranks horizontal? (Seriously, would like to see a picture 
>>> of the whole bike.)
>>>
>>> But I'm curious: Why not just use regular fenders on this bike with road 
>>> tires, especially with all that clearance? I'd consider this -- again, very 
>>> well done -- only for knobby tires.
>>>
>>> My Matthews 1:1 has full Kelpie (custom fit to the bike) fenders and 
>>> I've had absolutely no problems; for that matter, none either with many 
>>> other dirt road bikes with full fenders over fat smooth tires.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 7:53 AM Mat Grewe  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Howdy folks,
>>>>
>>>> I sent Will some pictures recently of my trail friendly fenders and he 
>>>> ended up posting them on his latest Riv email.  The rear fender is also 
>>>> anti-collapsible via direct to rack mounting.  Here are a couple of 
>>>> pictures, but this was a homebrew custom job that has far exce

Re: [RBW] Trail friendly front fender

[Mat Grewe]

Ha, I actually have no camera that takes clear photos (old laptop and cheap 
flip phone, both unworthy cameras).  These were taken by a friend who was 
honing in on just the fenders.  So it may be a while before full bike 
photos for this machine exist.  And when I am away from internet (don't 
have internet at home) and these conversations, I don't seem to remember to 
get a photo...

The bike was built to also have room for wider knobbies.  Unfortunately the 
builder messed up a couple things in the rear triangle, so I am limited to 
50mm tires instead of the requested 57mm, although the front has the 
clearance I requested.  I'm fine with it really, I pretty much only run 
50mm slick tires anyway, at least in the summer.  I still may put on a 
wider knobbie front tire if I end up doing a longer off-road tour, but I 
really have had no issue riding rough roads with 50mm slicks.  Winter I do 
put on studded, lightly knobbed tires.

My old bike had well installed Honjo fenders with 25-30mm clearance and I 
had numerous issues, even with slicks: the afore mentioned cowpies, leafs 
and mud, snow/ice buildup, and a stick flipped up into the spokes of my 
front wheel and nearly collapsed the front fender.  Thankfully that didn't 
happen, but the stays still got bent and required a fix.  Na, even with 
slicks I am supremely happy with the homebrew front fender.  And I forgot 
to mention, it wasn't my idea.  I got the idea from a MTB forum where the 
guy made it out of coroplast and zip ties, but this is arguably stronger 
and more elegant than what the MTB poster deemed "fugly."

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

On Saturday, June 19, 2021 at 1:19:46 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> That's both clever and well done. I've made similar "splash guard" 
> systems, though much cruder, for various mountain bikes using black plastic 
> and zip ties; protection is not as good as with "real" fenders but far 
> better than clip-on shorties or nothing.
>
> Will you please post the obligatory right-side profile photo, valves at 12 
> o'clock and cranks horizontal? (Seriously, would like to see a picture of 
> the whole bike.)
>
> But I'm curious: Why not just use regular fenders on this bike with road 
> tires, especially with all that clearance? I'd consider this -- again, very 
> well done -- only for knobby tires.
>
> My Matthews 1:1 has full Kelpie (custom fit to the bike) fenders and I've 
> had absolutely no problems; for that matter, none either with many other 
> dirt road bikes with full fenders over fat smooth tires.
>
> On Sat, Jun 19, 2021 at 7:53 AM Mat Grewe  wrote:
>
>> Howdy folks,
>>
>> I sent Will some pictures recently of my trail friendly fenders and he 
>> ended up posting them on his latest Riv email.  The rear fender is also 
>> anti-collapsible via direct to rack mounting.  Here are a couple of 
>> pictures, but this was a homebrew custom job that has far exceeded my 
>> expectations.  If you can handle getting more gunk on your feet/lower 
>> bottle and want to stop cowpies from getting stuck in your fender (yes, 
>> this has happened on more than one occasion), then fabricating this type of 
>> fender might be worth the time investment.
>>
>> This is on a custom bike where I had the builder add extra bosses along 
>> the downtube as well as a tab on the bottom bracket.  But this could be 
>> accomplished on a factory bike with King Cage USBs no problem.  Cutting and 
>> bending the thin sheet of aluminum wasn't as hard or timely as I was 
>> expecting, but I did recently install a thicker steel metal roof, so 
>> bending this fender by comparison was WA easier.
>>
>> If folks here have interest in reproducing these fenders on their own, 
>> hit me up and I can share more what I did and what I would do differently.  
>> If you think it is stupid, I don't care, they've worked splendidly for me 
>> over the past few thousand miles of heavy rain, sopping wet gravel, 
>> sleet/snow, sand, mud, and beauty paved roads.
>>
>> Oh, and the custom bike has a geometry based off of the Atlantis, with 
>> some nudges  here and there to accommodate my fit oddities.  Rides great!
>>
>> Mat
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5be9cef7-1085-45ef-b661-8eb3eb3528fcn%40googleg

Re: [RBW] Day Ride Kit

[Mat Grewe]

Ah, well dear folk, us sophisticated aristocrats shy not away from the 
backcountry 
bidet .

Sir Matthew the Immaculate

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[RBW] Re: Day Ride Kit

[Mat Grewe]

Do you ever wear the fishnet as a baselayer in wildly hot temperatures?  I 
wonder if it would help one stay cooler as well...

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin where temperatures vary between -30 and 100+ in a given 
year...

On Tuesday, June 16, 2020 at 10:05:31 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> What is your day ride kit, why, and for what type of riding?
>
> - coffee in thermos and insulated (soon to be a wood quaich/ kuksa)
> - pipe and tobacco kit
> - ventile cotton analogy rain jacket from Hilltrek
> - fishnet long john shirt (turns my sun shirt into a medium weight 
> insulated shirt, but I have to put it next to the skin. Weighs near nothing 
> and takes minimal space. It and my rain jacket would be sufficient for 95% 
> of days, but the weather folks don't get the five % right very often, so I 
> haul wool...)
> - (often) boiled wool 3-season weight sweater (extra layers cause it snows 
> anytime, and thunderstorms can drop temps into the 40's, dump hail for an 
> hour or more, and then keep on raining steady if they settle in)
> - Sitting tarp
> - Bike kit (pump, tube, patch, allen tool, et al)
> - Buck 110 knife
> - Digital typewriter (Freewrite: think Kindle e-reader on an quality 
> mechanical keyboard)
> - Camera, tripod, etc.
> - Irish straps and shopsack for shopping pick up days.
> - Fire tinder kit (the only time you need a fire is when it's too wet to 
> start one. Grin.)
> - compass
> - rosary
> -pen knife
> - water pen light purifier
> - no food. I prefer to ride fasted
>
> Why so much? Because I want to ride however long I ride, regardless of 
> weather. With a brain that can get overloaded by overstimulation, I go 
> prepared to emergency overnight if required). I haven't weighed the set up, 
> but it's likely 2/3rds of the way to my overnight/weeklong/forever set up 
> weight. Add tent, bag, pad, food, more water bottles, and I'm good for 
> forever. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
> www.DeaconPatrick.org
> www.CatholicHalos.org
> www.ShepherdsandHalos.org
>

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse Fender Install for QB

[Mat Grewe]

For future reference, if you do decide to drill & install your own 
fenders.  Aluminum drilling is super easy.  I just use regular drill bits, 
no need for lubrication, and put a piece of wood underneath to help 
minimize burrs on the back side.  A file can help to clean it up, but isn't 
strictly necessary—if you don't have one—when using wood on the back side 
when drilling.  I like to drill from the inside of the fender out, so any 
burrs that might happen are biting into the leather washer.

The most time consuming part is measuring thrice and drilling once.  And to 
reiterate Steve's point above, only drill one hole at a time, mount, then 
measure the next hole.

Unlike JohnS, I quite enjoy mounting fenders.  Very time consuming, even 
Weigle stated that in his BQ article.  But if you go into it planning for 
15 hours of total work, which includes set up and clean up time (might not 
need it, but first time can take a while), you will be less likely to get 
frustrated during the process.  If I recall, you do some woodworking, and 
the real "skill" carries over from that, which is having experience working 
with your hands in a calm, slow, and deliberate manner.

A general rule of thumb when doing first time projects is to estimate how 
long you think that project will take, then multiply it by at least four (I 
often make facetious comments, but this one is no joke or exaggeration!).  
Slowing down, not rushing, I am better able to find joy in tasks that 
otherwise aggravate me immensely...

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin


On Thursday, June 25, 2020 at 8:26:50 AM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> If you still have a rear rack on that bike, consider securing the fender 
> to the rack instead of using stays.  When riding off trail, rack legs won't 
> collapse if a stick gets caught in the spokes.  Here is a pretty awful 
> picture, but you get the gist (I can borrow a real camera if a better 
> picture would help).
>
> Mat
> Driftless Wisconsin
>
>
> On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 4:47:09 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Fenders arrived today and a bike shop (one of two I'd be willing to trust 
>> to this, and that's with a lot of hope and prayer involved), said they 
>> could squeeze in the fender instal over the next few days, otherwise it'd 
>> be a month or more. They understood "fenderline" and "pinch or widen to 
>> adjust it" and "position and drill one hole at a time" ... so here's to it 
>> going well! Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse Fender Install for QB

[Mat Grewe]

If you still have a rear rack on that bike, consider securing the fender to 
the rack instead of using stays.  When riding off trail, rack legs won't 
collapse if a stick gets caught in the spokes.  Here is a pretty awful 
picture, but you get the gist (I can borrow a real camera if a better 
picture would help).

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin


On Wednesday, June 24, 2020 at 4:47:09 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Fenders arrived today and a bike shop (one of two I'd be willing to trust 
> to this, and that's with a lot of hope and prayer involved), said they 
> could squeeze in the fender instal over the next few days, otherwise it'd 
> be a month or more. They understood "fenderline" and "pinch or widen to 
> adjust it" and "position and drill one hole at a time" ... so here's to it 
> going well! Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bread (and bikes)

[Mat Grewe]

There are two kinds of store bought sourdough.  One is the true artisan 
style sourdough you get at artisan bakeries or some food co-ops, that is 
the kind I make.  The other is "sourdough" flavored sandwich bread, which I 
refuse to eat.

I'll type up a simplified how to tomorrow.  The gist is that it takes 
longer from start to finish and you do need to plan it out a day or two in 
advance (depending on the temperature of your house), but the actual hands 
on time per loaf is on par or less than yeasted bread (especially when 
knead the dough by hand).  Plus it isn't as messy (vs hand kneading), so 
clean up is easier.  However, there is added time feeding the starter, but 
if you only bake bread once a week or less, you can put the starter in the 
fridge so you don't feed it every day (again, I'll detail that out in a 
simplified way).  It feels like a lot at first, but after a few times it 
becomes second nature.

Riv content...  Flour is heavy, and the more you bake bread, the more you 
have to buy flour, and that flour has to get from the store to the house, 
and what better way than a basketed bicycle, and then you are hungry and 
need a snack, and seriously, sourdough is a great snack, especially when 
you come home, after said bike ride of course, to a house that smells of 
fresh bread, quite lovely that is.

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin


On Saturday, May 2, 2020 at 5:03:44 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Matt: I'd be interested in learning more about making sourdough. I am 
> interested largely for curiousity, as I like yeast bread just fine, but I'd 
> be delighted to learn to make bread that tastes even better. I do have to 
> say that I don't particularly care for the taste of store bought sourdough 
> -- perhaps that should be "sourdough" as I guess that the real thing tastes 
> better.
>
> No kneading? I was thinking that sourdough might take too long for my 
> patience; but the kneading takes 10 minutes, so perhaps this will offset it.
>
> Thanks. On list, because I daresay that others will be interested in what 
> you have to say.
>
> Riv content: I should think that making sourdough is as relevant as 
> carving your own spoon with a hatchet. 
>
> Patrick Moore, who is very gluten tolerant and gets no gut from bread, 
> pasta, potatoes, rice, or beer, and who one day will learn to make real 
> french bread,  too.
>
> On Sat, May 2, 2020 at 10:04 AM Mat Grewe > 
> wrote:
>
>> I should add, I used to make a lot of bread with commercial yeast, but 
>> now making bread (and pizza dough) almost exclusively for the past three 
>> years with sourdough starter as the leaven, I've noticed some interesting 
>> benefits over commercial yeast.  And yes, some are actually bike related.
>>
>>
>> -Sourdough stays moist and chewy—on the inside—longer than bread made 
>> with yeast.  A large part is likely due to the higher moisture content of 
>> the dough and longer fermentation process necessary when making sourdough, 
>> but the crumb does not get that same kind of dry, crumbly, cardboardy feel 
>> as it gets old.
>>
>> -*Some* gluten free people can eat sourdough.  I have a friend who, if 
>> she eats gluten, even one bite, spends much of the next day in the 
>> outhouse...  However, she can eat a couple slices of sourdough and have 
>> absolutely no ill effects!  The fermentation process changes things 
>> somehow.  I'm sure there are different types of gluten intolerance, so try 
>> at your own peril.  My friend and her daughter did the research for their 
>> type of gluten intolerance (theirs is truly medically defined, not a self 
>> diagnosis) and thought it worth the attempt.  Needless to say, they love 
>> when I bring fresh sourdough to gatherings.
>>
>> -I can eat way more sourdough and not get what I would describe as "bread 
>> gut".  If I eat too much bread made from yeast, I feel heavy and sluggish, 
>> especially when riding a bike, not so with sourdough.  I can eat half a 
>> loaf of sourdough for dinner and feel great!
>>
>> -I don't have mechanical bread making devices (bread machine, stand 
>> mixer, etc.) and sourdough requires no kneading or fancy equipment.  A 
>> dutch oven helps, but is not necessary.
>>
>> -You get a new friend.  Sourdough starter is alive and deserves a name; 
>> mine is Gertrude and a good friend she is to my tummy.  New friends are 
>> hard to come by these days, but fair warning, you do have to social 
>> distance your sourdough starter if you keep other fermented friends like 
>> kombucha...  (no joke, their good bacteria can interact and and cause 
>> issues)
>>
>>
>> Homemade bread in any capacity is great, bu

[RBW] Re: Bread (and bikes)

[Mat Grewe]

I should add, I used to make a lot of bread with commercial yeast, but now 
making bread (and pizza dough) almost exclusively for the past three years 
with sourdough starter as the leaven, I've noticed some interesting 
benefits over commercial yeast.  And yes, some are actually bike related.


-Sourdough stays moist and chewy—on the inside—longer than bread made with 
yeast.  A large part is likely due to the higher moisture content of the 
dough and longer fermentation process necessary when making sourdough, but 
the crumb does not get that same kind of dry, crumbly, cardboardy feel as 
it gets old.

-*Some* gluten free people can eat sourdough.  I have a friend who, if she 
eats gluten, even one bite, spends much of the next day in the outhouse...  
However, she can eat a couple slices of sourdough and have absolutely no 
ill effects!  The fermentation process changes things somehow.  I'm sure 
there are different types of gluten intolerance, so try at your own peril.  
My friend and her daughter did the research for their type of gluten 
intolerance (theirs is truly medically defined, not a self diagnosis) and 
thought it worth the attempt.  Needless to say, they love when I bring 
fresh sourdough to gatherings.

-I can eat way more sourdough and not get what I would describe as "bread 
gut".  If I eat too much bread made from yeast, I feel heavy and sluggish, 
especially when riding a bike, not so with sourdough.  I can eat half a 
loaf of sourdough for dinner and feel great!

-I don't have mechanical bread making devices (bread machine, stand mixer, 
etc.) and sourdough requires no kneading or fancy equipment.  A dutch oven 
helps, but is not necessary.

-You get a new friend.  Sourdough starter is alive and deserves a name; 
mine is Gertrude and a good friend she is to my tummy.  New friends are 
hard to come by these days, but fair warning, you do have to social 
distance your sourdough starter if you keep other fermented friends like 
kombucha...  (no joke, their good bacteria can interact and and cause 
issues)


Homemade bread in any capacity is great, but if anyone is curious to try 
sourdough and wants some simplified tips and recipes, PM me off list.  
There is a lot online and it took some time to sift through what was a 
necessary step and what wasn't.  I like good and simple bread, but don't 
have the desire to be an artisan, which many online tutorials cater to.  I 
would rather ride a bike than geek out and babysit my bread.

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Bread (and bikes)

[Mat Grewe]

Are you using commercial yeast or sourdough starter as your leavening?  And 
what is the moisture content of the bread you are making?  Simply divide 
the grams of water used by the grams of flour.

I make sourdough bread with a fairly high moisture content in the loaf 
itself (70%) and bake it in a dutch oven, which develops a nice thick, 
crunchy crust.  That does a pretty good job protecting the loaf, and I put 
the cut side down on the counter.  That last a few days before the crust 
gets *really* hard, but the inside is still soft.  Sometimes after a few 
days I'll put the loaf in a sealed container (pyrex bowl with a lid) and 
that softens the crust up enough to make cutting easier.

I've heard of using bags like this 
, but have not felt the 
need to try them out.

I am in Minnesota/Wisconsin and although it is usually drier in the winter, 
it is still far more humid than your climate.  However you could try 
keeping the cut side down, making a loaf with a higher moisture content 
(especially since you are using whole wheat flour), and try building up the 
thickness of the crust.

Mat
Recently biked home with a wimpy 5 pounds of flour


On Monday, April 27, 2020 at 4:58:27 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Mostly bread. I just baked another batch, whole wheat, bolus after 
> kneading but before baking was 54.6 oz. That made 2 moderately-sized 
> loaves, far more than I and my daughter can eat in the 1-2 days before 
> bread left out goes stale here in our dry climate. We eat flour tortillas 
> and rice and pasta and potatoes, too, so we don't eat bread daily.
>
> I've taken to freezing my bread after slicing it into more-or-less 
> sandwich-thick slices, the nuking it briefly, just long enough to soften 
> and not long enough to heat. I do something similar with tortillas, too; 
> tho' usually heat both sides on little grill over gas burner until soft or 
> heat on a cast iron griddle.
>
> But what do you others do to keep bread fresh? Again, dry climate.
>
> The freezing method works fine; the nuked results are near-fresh in 
> texture and taste. But I'm curious about other possibilities.
>
> Bike content" carried 15 lb of King Arthur stone ground "white" whole 
> wheat flour home on the bike, along with much else. Don't usually buy KA or 
> "white" whole wheat, but it was all left on the shelf at the time.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv pants size large - latest version

[Mat Grewe]

Sold

On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 11:08:00 AM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> For sale are the latest style Rivendell pants, size large.  Very lightly 
> worn and freshly laundered.
>
> $80 shipped CONUS
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv pants size large - latest version

[Mat Grewe]

Sold

On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 11:08:00 AM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> For sale are the latest style Rivendell pants, size large.  Very lightly 
> worn and freshly laundered.
>
> $80 shipped CONUS
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv pants size large - latest version

[Mat Grewe]

Sale pending

On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 11:08:00 AM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> For sale are the latest style Rivendell pants, size large.  Very lightly 
> worn and freshly laundered.
>
> $80 shipped CONUS
>

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[RBW] FS: Riv pants size large - latest version

[Mat Grewe]

For sale are the latest style Rivendell pants, size large.  Very lightly 
worn and freshly laundered.

$80 shipped CONUS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who needs a custom?

[Mat Grewe]

Swept back bars, yes'ish and no...  I'm running Koga Denham, which are now 
on whatbars if you are curious.  The below pic is just from the internet, 
but pretty similar to what I'm doing.  I have a slightly long torso for my 
height of 6'1", but I like being stretched out with the bars level with the 
saddle.  Top tube is 635mm and I'll use a 100mm stem.  I'll PM you about 
the frame price.

[image: Koga Denham handlebars, Velo Orange stem, Ergon GC1 grips, Shimano 
...]

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[RBW] Re: Who needs a custom?

[Mat Grewe]

I've always been a one bike guy and my bike, a Bianchi Super Grizzly from 
the early 80's, is needing to get retired.  I had the crack in the 
chainstay patched/fixed, the guy did such a great job, I put in an order 
for a custom to replace the frame.  It is essentially a fillet brazed 650b 
Atlantis with thru-axle disc brakes, longer top tube, slacker seat tube 
angle, dynamo routing, threadless headset, and seat stays that join behind 
the seat tube rather than the side (big thighs that rub on those 
protrusions!).

The nice thing about living in southwest Wisconsin, where the cost of 
living is pretty darn low, is a custom frame is the same or less than stock 
steel frames made in the US.  I tried to avoid going the custom route, but 
when I found nothing out there that would quite fit, plus the next best 
options were around the same price, oddly enough a custom didn't feel like 
such an indulgence.  At 29, I'm looking forward to riding this bike 
exclusively for many years to come.  Jobst Brandt got 20+ years out of his 
last Peter Johnson frame, so I'm hoping that I can get somewhere in that 
ballpark too.

Frame should be done and built up in a couple weeks, and if I remember, I 
can post a picture here once it is done.

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: How do you ride alone?

[Mat Grewe]

[image: Image result for sheldon brown tandem]

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[RBW] Re: Snow and Brisk Riding Tips

[Mat Grewe]

Thanks guys.  I've ridden studs when I used to commute in town, but now 
that I live rural (with a much longer commute), the roads seem to have way 
less glaze ice.  So I think it's worth the foray into supple knobbies 
instead of jumping right to studs.  Enjoy the brisk weather no doubt coming 
later in January!

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Snow and Brisk Riding Tips

[Mat Grewe]

Thanks Patrick,

Have you (or any others) had any experience with studded tires and how 
supple knobbies may compare on particularly slick surfaces?

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: FS: SR 60mm stem with 25.4 clamp

[Mat Grewe]

The stem is still available.  Thanks.

On Friday, December 6, 2019 at 3:05:12 PM UTC-6, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> $20 shipped CONUS for the stem.  The picture has both a 50mm and 60mm 
> stem, but just the 60mm stem on the right is for sale.
>

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[RBW] Re: Snow and Brisk Riding Tips

[Mat Grewe]

Don't forget the power of acclimating to the cold!  Early season 35 degrees 
often feels colder than mid-late season 5 degrees...  It helps 
intentionally under-dressing (safely of course) a couple times early on, 
kick-starting the body to get used to the cold.

Any recommendations for winter tires in particular?  I have a mix of rural 
paved and gravel roads, often with hardpack instead of clear glaze ice.  
Any insight as to how the compass/rene herse knobbies compare to 
thunderburts, or other brands, to studs on the various types of hardpack 
snow, textured ice, gravel, clear pavement, slushy snot, etc?  I've been 
rolling on old tires for a while, and soon is the time to expand to better 
tires, allowing more days of winter riding to safely occur.  Still on a 
budget so I only have one wheelset and would like to use one tire for the 
winter.

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin where last winter we saw -35 degrees Fahrenheit; 
beautiful for a hike in the woods, a wee bit too cold for a bike ride...

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[RBW] Re: Which kind of shellac "flakes" do you use for cotton tape? Seed, button, flake, or dewaxed???

[Mat Grewe]

That ought to turn out beautifully.  Enjoy!

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Which kind of shellac "flakes" do you use for cotton tape? Seed, button, flake, or dewaxed???

[Mat Grewe]

Right, the cut is in pounds, not ratios, my bad..  Anyway, I had two layers 
of Newbaum's (outer layer shellaced a few times over a year or two) that I 
unwrapped this summer and I found out that the shellac did not saturate 
through to the bottom layer.  I rode in the rain frequently and it was not 
compromised in any way so I don't think there is a need to try to saturate 
that under layer.  My first shellac job I did a 1.5 pound cut, and that was 
pretty thin, but not overly so and could be good for a first timer.  
However, all subsequent times has been with a 2 pound cut.

What color Newbaum's are you thinking?

Oh, if you are double wrapping, you could either do the harlequin pattern, 
or if you are wrapping normally, try wrapping the under layer in the 
opposite direction as the outer layer.  It added a nice visual texture to 
my handlebars.  And since you are shellacing, you don't have to wrap from 
the hoods up to the tops.  I wrapped towards the brake levers and had 
everything tucked under them, so no need for twine and the tape didn't have 
issues with peeling!  This assumes drop bars of course...

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Which kind of shellac "flakes" do you use for cotton tape? Seed, button, flake, or dewaxed???

[Mat Grewe]

I chose super-blonde dewaxed flakes for some grey handlebar tape, but I 
cannot recall my reasons for dewaxed...  The color did darken a little even 
with super-blonde, similar to the tape/twine getting a little wet.  I've 
also used a mix of amber and garnet flakes on white handlebar tape and it 
looks quite nice.

In either instance, I recommend a 2:1 cut.  It goes on light and is easier 
to control the build up of shellac.  I prefer just enough shellac to give 
some durability to the handlebar tape, but if you want that glassy, thick 
shellac feel and look, then you could use a lager cut (4:1 or so).  I don't 
wear gloves and ride frequently in the rain, so a lighter coating works 
best for me.

Mat
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: MTB Hunqapillar questions

[Mat Grewe]

If you want, I have a set of Jones Loop bars and a Nitto quill stem adapter 
I was going to be posting for sale soon (don't have pictures yet).  PM me 
off list if you are interested.  The adapter wasn't as ugly as I was 
expecting, plus it allowed me to dial in fit with the plethora of used 
threadless stems my LBS had.

The Jones bars provided great control, I just have ultra sensitive hands 
and the only bar I've tried that has not caused me pain is the Maes 
Parallel shaped drop bar, even off road...

Mat
Driftless, Wisconsin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Mat Grewe]

Anyone have advice on how much and when to adjust the tension of a Berthoud 
saddle?  I have probably around 5,000 miles on an Aspin and it has been 
great thus far.

Mat Grewe
Driftless Wisconsin

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[RBW] Re: Newbaums Be Gone

[Mat Grewe]

1:1 ratio of coconut oil (other oils can work as well) and baking soda.  
Once that removes the sticky residue, warm soapy water to remove the oil.  
I've removed sticky stuff with this that goo gone had no effect on.

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[RBW] Re: Anyone use Alex Adventurer 2 rims?

[Mat Grewe]

Good to know, thanks.  Has that slight discontinuity caused you any grief?

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[RBW] Anyone use Alex Adventurer 2 rims?

[Mat Grewe]

Hey folks,

Anyone have experience with Alex Adventurer 2 rims 
?  
Over on the touring forum, I've read decent things about the original 
Adventurer rim, but I haven't found anything about the latest, tubeless 
compatible, version.  Seems like it could be an alternative to the Velocity 
Cliffhanger at a fraction of the price.

If it helps, I'm 160 and don't carry more than 30-35 pounds touring, mostly 
on the front wheel.  I ride on all types of "roads" and singletrack.

Thanks,
Mat

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[RBW] Re: Oddities that make the ride home extra-adventurous

[Mat Grewe]

I had a seat post binder bolt break, but the best part was the 20+ mph 
tailwind guiding me home!

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[RBW] Re: FS: A. Homer Hilsen - 61cm (Old model)

[Mat Grewe]

Sold

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[RBW] Re: FS: A. Homer Hilsen - 61cm (Old model)

[Mat Grewe]

Sale pending

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[RBW] Re: Bike tour around Idaho, ideas?

[Mat Grewe]

I stumbled upon this idyllic voyage (to me at least) to a remote campground 
while planning a future tour around the Sawtooth area.  Johnson Creek 
Campground 
.
  
Google earthing the road was a great experience, so I can only imagine what 
being there will be like.  It is about 100 miles northeast of Boise and 
could easily be made into a six day loop with all the back roads that lie 
between.  However, I am unsure about the quantity of hotels, hot springs, 
or resupply stops along the way...

Patrick that Wild West route looks incredible!  Thanks for the link!

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[RBW] Re: Fishnet longjohn/ boiled wool/ ventile system details

[Mat Grewe]

Oh, and another benefit (not to everyone I know, but this is the Riv forum) 
to Patrick's clothing is being able to walk into a store and look 
relatively normal, albeit with a frosty beard if one is lucky enough to 
grow one...

Another piece often overlooked is acclimating to the cold.  It is not 
dissimilar to building muscles, it takes time, and safe exposure to the 
extremes.  Last year I started taking partially cold showers (start hot, 
soap up, and rinse off in as cold of water as the shower gets; rather 
delightful if you ask me) and I found that I acclimated to the cold quicker 
this year!

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[RBW] Re: Disc brakes

[Mat Grewe]

Patrick, how many miles do rims last you in those conditions (and what 
model of rims)?

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> You’d need mounts and a beefier fork. Why do you ask? Unless you ride in 
> insanely stupid conditions (below freezing but the roads are wet because 
> the sun shines in places so everything freezed when it gets on your bike, 
> including rim brakes, or in deep snow so the snow clogs up the rims), 
> cantilevers are brilliant. Ask me how I know. Grin. And in those 
> conditions, disk brakes have been known to freeze up too, and are harder to 
> clear. Only reliable solutions I found were drum brakes (which have other 
> problems) or fixed gear back pedal braking, which I’ve switched to and 
> absolutely love for my insanely stupid conditions. Grin. 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Mat Grewe]

Any folks who were comfortable with drop bars move to the Albastache?  If 
so, what changes to stem length and height did you make?

I greatly enjoy my Maes Parallel bars, but it gets less comfortable when 
wearing mittens.  Gloves wouldn't be an issue, but poor circulation in my 
fingers always forces me to mittens!  So I've pondered having a winter set 
up, and the Albastache seem to fit the bill, which is mostly good grip and 
control with mittens and can use non-aero levers (that way the handle bar 
swap is quick and easy).

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

[Mat Grewe]

Hey, I just used round spacers, like you described, from a local Ace 
Hardware, that way I didn't have to do any extra drilling!

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

[Mat Grewe]

I also ride with Grip King pedals; you can actually lengthen them!  The 
"grip" part is held on to the body by M5 screws.  You can remove them, put 
in an aluminum spacer and use a longer screw to attach it all back 
together.  A cheaper experiment than springing for catalyst pedals.  

A few words of caution though...  

-Don't screw the screws on too tight as the threaded body is aluminum and 
can strip (happened to me).  If that does, I used a #12-24 socket cap screw 
(had to order online) as the threading is slightly bigger than an M5.  Big 
enough to bite new threads into the aluminum, but not too big so it still 
screwed in successfully.  Bonus, a 5/32 hex wrench is the same size as a 
4mm!

-Be careful with how long of a spacer you use.  The longer the spacer, the 
more force is on the screw.  And use as thick of a spacer to spread the 
force.  I don't know the breaking point, but use some judgement here.  
Anyway, even a 1/4" spacer on each end can make a difference in the overall 
feel.  I think that a 1/4" spacer on both ends would match the usable 
length of a Catalyst, which is 5" if I recall correctly (website says 5.6", 
but some of that is not usable length due).

-An aluminum spacer is great as it is cheap, but lighter than steel.  Nylon 
compresses and I had screws loosen a little on me because of that 
sponginess.  Nylon is cheap though and strong enough to experiment with for 
a few rides (in my experience at least).

That being said, I found that Grip Kings in their original length and 
slightly thicker shoes worked better for me.  I went from a 10mm super 
flexy sole to about 15mm slightly firmer, but still flexible, sole and have 
had no issues since.

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

[Mat Grewe]

Don't discount Patrick's advice on floor living.  I don't do it much, but 
the little I have done helps immensely!  Another way to stretch those 
hamstrings requires a friend, but it is incredibly effective.

-Lay on your back on the floor
-Lift one leg up towards the sky (keeping it straight or only the slightest 
bit bent)
-Have your friend continue pushing that leg towards your upper body until 
you feel a comfortable deep stretch, then stop
-Hold that for 30-60 seconds (still keeping it straight or only the 
slightest bit bent)
-Make sure your other leg remains on the floor as if you were still 
laying down normally
-Now is where the stretch really deepens!
-In that same deep stretch position, push your leg forward (away from your 
upper body) with as much force as you can while your friend resists your 
effort and keeps your leg in the same upward position
-Keep battling with your friend in this position for 5-10 seconds
-Again, make sure your other leg and butt remains on the floor
-Relax and have your friend gently push your leg further towards your upper 
body until you feel a comfortable deep stretch again
-Hold for 30-60 seconds
-You will be amazed at how much further your leg stretches after the 
resistance session
-Do that resistance session a couple times on one leg, then switch to the 
other

Let me know if that doesn't make sense...

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[RBW] Re: Bike sizing by PBH, and wanting to give drop bars one more chance

[Mat Grewe]

Hey, I am darn near the same proportions.  I cannot recall exactly, but my 
saddle height is somewhere between 74-76.  However, I use thin'ish soled 
shoes and pedal with my foot far forward on the pedals (midfoot 
).
  
The best advice I have found on figuring out saddle height 

 
is from Steve Hogg.  Both articles are on the long side, but there is great 
fit information in there.

Mat

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 1:08:22 PM UTC-5, Eric Myers wrote:
>
> Up until about a month ago I rode 58cm sized bikes, in varying degrees of 
> (dis)comfort.  Then I started riding my new significantly larger Sam 
> Hillborne and realized all my older bikes are too small, so I've basically 
> decided to replace one of my old bikes with something similar (mid-80s 
> sport tourer) in a larger size, and sell the rest.  Now I'm trying to 
> figure out that sizing.
>
>  
>
> I'm a little over 6'1" (187cm) and long in the torso but with only normal 
> length arms, according to my dress shirts.  So to paraphrase an old joke, 
> my arms aren't quite long enough to reach the handlebars, and I need an 
> extra couple cm of handlebar/stem height to compensate. 
>
>  
>
> My PBH is 89.5 cm.  According to Rivendell, my saddle height should be 
> 78-79cm, and my starting frame size should be 62-64 cm (The Sam is 
> different because it is an expanded frame).  For whatever reason, that 
> saddle height is not comfortable and I tend to use something a couple cm 
> shorter.  (Possibly because I keep my feet further forward on the pedal?) 
>
>  
>
> On the Sam I have Albatross bars and love them, but would like to have a 
> second bike with a different cockpit.  Stretching forward has generally not 
> been as comfortable to me as riding in the drops against a headwind, so I 
> am hoping that a larger frame, plus a short reach stem (I'd try one of 
> Analog's w(Right) stems if they were cheaper), and short reach drops like 
> the Soma Highway 1 bar might add up to something comfortable.
>
>  
>
> If you have a similar body challenges, or a preference for a slightly 
> shorter saddle height, I'd love to hear about your thoughts and experience 
> on bike sizing.  Ditto for drop bars.  I know I'm going to have to try 
> riding a number of different bikes, but I'd like to start out trying the 
> right size.
>
>  
>
> Best regards,
>
> Eric
>

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Mat Grewe]

Patrick:  Your system is pretty close to what I was thinking.  For the 
record I have not tried my fender ideas, but thought through them after 
seeing a few different folks' methods.

The rear fender would be about the same, but ideally attached to a rack of 
some kind as that tubing is significantly harder to bend than any fender 
stay I have used.  I'm curious, what length did you find works best for 
that rear extension?

The front would vary just a little.  I was thinking of having a thin, 
rolled edge aluminum (looks nicer than plastic and the rolled edge would 
reduce cutting myself) downtube mudguard running the full length of the 
downtube.  Then a chain-guard covering the front half of the chainrings 
only, not interfering with a derailleur.  This would protect the chainring 
against schmoo thrown up from the front tire.  Then, if necessary to 
protect a light, a front fender only protruding out in front of the fork, 
perhaps a little behind to protect the bottom of the headset as well.  But 
that way there are no stays on the front wheel to buckle and potentially 
cause a crash.

Again, all theory...


Steve:  You are spot on that a fendered bike would be quicker to clean 
after each ride!  I just found myself slacking when I had fenders and 
commuted full time in the winter (I have since moved out rural where the 
roads just are not safe for cyclists part of the winter)...  But I had salt 
everywhere on the bike, so I still would have to do a full wipe down, which 
would take time.  How much time that would save vs no fenders, not sure...  
I do recall hearing that my county (La Crosse, Wisconsin) recently switched 
salt formulas to one that seems to hang in the air, covering everything.  
It works great on the roads, but is an absolute mess on anything travelling 
those roads.  I suppose I could put fenders on during the winter as I don't 
ride trails that time of year, but I did not enjoy installing them.  My 
perfectionist nature takes over and I end up spending hours dialing in the 
fender line!!

Mat

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Mat Grewe]

Patrick:  Your system is pretty close to what I was thinking.  For the 
record I have not tried my fender ideas, but thought through them after 
seeing a few different folks' methods.

The rear fender would be about the same, but ideally attached to a rack of 
some kind as that tubing is significantly harder to bend than any fender 
stay I have used.  I'm curious, what length did you find works best for 
that rear extension?

The front would vary just a little.  I was thinking of having a thin, 
rolled edge aluminum (looks nicer than plastic and the rolled edge would 
reduce cutting myself) downtube mudguard running the full length of the 
downtube.  Then a chain-guard covering the front half of the chainrings 
only, not interfering with a derailleur.  This would protect the chainring 
against schmoo thrown up from the front tire.  Then, if necessary to 
protect a light, a front fender only protruding out in front of the fork, 
perhaps a little behind to protect the bottom of the headset as well.  But 
that way there are no stays on the front wheel to buckle and potentially 
cause a crash.

Again, all theory...


Steve:  You are spot on that a fendered bike would be quicker to clean 
after each ride!  I just found myself slacking when I had fenders and 
commuted full time in the winter (I have since moved out rural where the 
roads just are not safe for cyclists part of the winter)...  But I had salt 
everywhere on the bike.  I recall hearing that my county (La Crosse, 
Wisconsin) recently switched salt formulas to one that seems to hang in the 
air, covering everything.  It works great on the roads, but is an absolute 
mess on anything travelling those roads.  I suppose I could put fenders on 
during the winter as I don't ride trails that time of year, but I did not 
enjoy installing them.  My perfectionist nature takes over and I end up 
spending hours dialing in the fender line!!

Mat

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Mat Grewe]

My experience has salt grime still getting on the bike with full coverage 
fenders.  Sooo, would cleaning the fendered bike less often, because it is 
less grimy (but still a little grimy), be more damaging and more of a 
hassle than cleaning the fenderless bike after every ride because it is so 
clearly dirty?  Hrmmm the ponderings...

On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 11:47:08 AM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I have two bikes:
> Rambouillet
> Roadeo
>
> I am thinking of keeping fenders on my Rambouillet just for the salty road 
> winter season here in Maryand and then back off again in spring when the 
> roads are clean.
> I am not worried about rain and ground water so much. Just don't want salt 
> corroding stuff.
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Mat Grewe]

Jobst wrote about fenders as a liability on hiking trails that he rides (
here ).  Like Jobst, I only ride one 
bike and will be removing my metal fenders for the same reasons he chose to 
never use them.  Fenders on trails has given me too much grief, even though 
I have proper clearance and use slick tires.  There are a few hybrid fender 
ideas that mitigate liability, but minimize road grime on me/the drivetrain 
that I may try if I deem necessary.  For folks who keep multiple bikes or 
don't ride trails, fenders make a lot of sense and I am sure I will miss 
them from time to time.

Mat

On Tuesday, September 18, 2018 at 6:54:31 PM UTC-5, ascpgh wrote:
>
> Jobst must've made the kind of money to permit buying a range of bags in 
> order to provide such criticism.
>
> My Nelson Longflap was on my Rambouillet for a ride across the country and 
> has been on the back of my daily commuter for eleven years straight since. 
> I have had the occasion to end up with some thing to take home that was 
> best accounted for by the deployed long flap and its second straps. When 
> used on my light touring trips it gives me a quick place to secure things 
> without having to empty the bag and repack to accommodate. 
>
> I can only project that if Brandt had no appreciation of the contingent 
> good the long flap of the Longflap offers that he would be similarly 
> unappreciative of the significant good that properly fit fenders provide 
> when things become wet, muddy, or somewhere in between. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Tuesday, September 18, 2018 at 6:26:29 PM UTC-4, Mark Anderson wrote:
>>
>> On Friday, September 14, 2018 at 1:11:00 PM UTC-5, Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>> I recall an interview by Grant Petersen where Brandt agued against the 
>>> value of the longer flap on the Carradice longflap bags. Now *that’s* an 
>>> opinion.
>>
>>
>> IIRC, he argued that if you want a bigger bag, you should get a bigger 
>> bag, not a bigger lid.  Makes sense to me.
>>
>> -- 
>> Mark Anderson
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Mat Grewe]

An enjoyable interview with Ray Hosler about his riding with Jobst.

https://www.mamnick.com/blogs/journal/a-continued-conversation-with-ray-hosler

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[RBW] Re: Prayers for Deacon Patrick

[Mat Grewe]

In the Kickapoo region of Wisconsin, we've had a 1,000 year flood, 500 year 
flood, and multiple 100 year floods, all within the last decade...  As 
inconvenient as rivers turning to lakes are, and tree covered hills (and 
roads) turning to mud, there is an underlying beauty that we cannot conquer 
or match.

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

Ha, funny how those little differences present themselves!  But that makes 
sense to me, the former that is...  Since those "boots" would be used for 
hiking, as well as winter croquet, I will plan on building them around a 
felt insole and just enjoy the added warmth while cycling, even if it isn't 
quite noticeable...  Thanks for all of your insights, it is much 
appreciated!

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

Ah ha!  Thanks for the winter "boot" tip!  My wife and I have been talking 
about shoe making (
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/villagevideo/shoemaking-instructional-video)
 and 
making a last while my foot is donning thick thick socks, and perhaps a 
felt insole, could be the ticket.

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

Hey, I have looked at Chacos, but I'm not keen on their bulk.  I will, 
however, put up with strapping a brick to my foot when it keeps my toes 
toasty through a Wisconsin winter!

On Friday, July 20, 2018 at 1:39:54 PM UTC-5, masmojo wrote:
>
> Since, the beginning of summer I've been rocking Chaco sandals, no real 
> foot retention per se, but they grip real well on a wide/pinned platform 
> pedal . Most of the guys I know around here also ride Chacos. I prefer them 
> to other sandals,  many of which use Neoprene,  which can get sort of 
> squishy, nasty and smelly over time. The Chacos just have, the strap & are 
> pretty durable.
> For retention if I need it, I use SPDs.
> It's well into the 100s now so I want to let my dogs breathe. 

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

I'm a size 10 and on moderately on the wide side of feet.  Nothing out of 
the ordinary, but that 8" platform felt rather nice underfoot, especially 
with thin sandals.  Thanks for the update Deacon, and keep us posted on how 
you like the urban pedals.  If the Grip Kings don't work out long term, 
I've pondered going back to forefoot'ish and using the Urban pedals.  

On the Grip Kings subject, I don't share the biggest gripe folks have with 
them, I think they grip just fine in the rain!  But I am experiencing 
pressure point from the force the back of the pedal exerts on my foot when 
pedaling hard.  Perhaps my minimalist sandals... or feet... need to be 
beefed up to distribute that pressure, hence the long term trial.

Perhaps this warrants a new thread, but, have any other folks done the 
forefoot, mid-foot, back to forefoot position?  If so, what were your 
observations about both techniques and why you currently use one over the 
other, especially with floppy footwear and hilly regions?

Thanks all,
Mat

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

Alas, the rearward pedal extender met it's end after less than 6 months.  
It stressed enough to break at the right angle bend.  I thought about 
making one that is stiffer out of a steel rod, but I've decided to try flat 
pedals for now as mid-foot pedaling and the extended toe clips have an 
issue of dragging on the ground when my cranks are vertical...

Deacon, how has your switch from mid-foot to forefoot pedaling been working 
out?


On Sunday, May 6, 2018 at 2:37:18 PM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> Hey, what has worked for me thus far with sylvan like pedal, midfoot, 
> floppy sandals, and simplicity is this.
>
> VO Half clips installed with 25mm bushings (easily variable) from a 
> hardware store to allow my foot to be forward enough on the pedal.  This 
> works great, but there isn't much support for the heal of my foot, sooo I 
> hacked off the "toe" part of an old pair of toe clips and installed them on 
> the back side of the pedal, where the reflector usually goes.  This gives 
> my foot a solid platform nearly eight inches long with some retention in 
> the toe area.  I am still needing to modify the backwards toe clip to have 
> some grip as my heal moves around on bumpy wet conditions slightly.  I'm 
> thinking of drilling some holes and punching them out from underneath as 
> faux pins, with an added addition of drillium.
>
> The downsides...  It is not a solid foot to the pedal retention like 
> clipless pedals or power grips, but it does have some (not sure how much 
> you are after).  It has a learning curve when mounting steep and rough 
> terrain and won't ever be as quick as a flat pedal.  The toe clips won't 
> fit big winter boots, but my guess, based on looking at some of your 
> pictures, it would fit your winter footwear.  You may have to bend the toe 
> clips a smidge though.
>
> The upside.  Simple, reliable, and darn near every bike shop has a pair of 
> old quill pedals laying around if the pedals ever get messed up on tour.  
> Also, I do find it pretty darn comfortable.
>
> Here is a picture to get the idea.
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7drasw6EiXc/Wu9ZW3at2dI/AQ0/EQv0KAzcpfohaPiu1ZrLX4wArgEH4f25QCLcBGAs/s1600/Pedal.jpg>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

I do ride without socks and no issues with the clips chewing my toes.  I 
have Xero Z-Trails and the sandals do have some extra room at the toes, 
which might help.  I was thinking that I would have to put some twine (in 
true Riv fashion) around the toe area, but haven't felt the need to yet.  
Heck, if it did end up causing issues, I could make a net out of twine that 
completely fills in the gap between.  I'm not one to pull up while I pedal, 
the half clips more prevent the front of my foot from sliding forward and 
around.  So I could see the toe munching being more of an issue if you pull 
up when you pedal or if your toes extent beyond the ends of your sandals.

They are surprisingly hearty indeed!  We have a lot of 8-12% grades in 
southwest Wisconsin and I have had no issues sprinting up those.  I thought 
flex would be an issue, thinking the long bushing would act as a lever and 
over stress the bolt.  However, there isn't much that much torque in the 
front.  The rear I chose not to have any bushings as I do feel that bend 
ever so slightly when climbing out of the saddle.  But those steel toe 
clips are surprisingly resilient, which one learns when hack sawing them in 
half!

Oh, and another con, which might be the one that nixes this idea for you!  
The weight of the front toe clips means that it points down.  When walking 
the bike, the pedals have to be horizontal (not possible with fixed), 
otherwise they nick the ground.   You could try to counter weight it so it 
doesn't, but that just sounds tedious...

Hope you find a solid simple solution that works for you!

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Re: [RBW] Pedal Retention Questions

[Mat Grewe]

Hey, what has worked for me thus far with sylvan like pedal, midfoot, 
floppy sandals, and simplicity is this.

VO Half clips installed with 25mm bushings (easily variable) from a 
hardware store to allow my foot to be forward enough on the pedal.  This 
works great, but there isn't much support for the heal of my foot, sooo I 
hacked off the "toe" part of an old pair of toe clips and installed them on 
the back side of the pedal, where the reflector usually goes.  This gives 
my foot a solid platform nearly eight inches long with some retention in 
the toe area.  I am still needing to modify the backwards toe clip to have 
some grip as my heal moves around on bumpy wet conditions slightly.  I'm 
thinking of drilling some holes and punching them out from underneath as 
faux pins, with an added addition of drillium.

The downsides...  It is not a solid foot to the pedal retention like 
clipless pedals or power grips, but it does have some (not sure how much 
you are after).  It has a learning curve when mounting steep and rough 
terrain and won't ever be as quick as a flat pedal.  The toe clips won't 
fit big winter boots, but my guess, based on looking at some of your 
pictures, it would fit your winter footwear.  You may have to bend the toe 
clips a smidge though.

The upside.  Simple, reliable, and darn near every bike shop has a pair of 
old quill pedals laying around if the pedals ever get messed up on tour.  
Also, I do find it pretty darn comfortable.

Here is a picture to get the idea.



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[RBW] Re: OT but mentioned on the Blahg: Hiking

[Mat Grewe]

Oh, but do know the dangerous critters and vegetation in the area as well 
as how to deal with them.  Someone mentioned bears already, but know what 
to do if you encounter a mountain lion, moose, rattlesnake, angry pigs, 
cows with horns who escaped their fence, etc.   Also, we have heaps of deer 
ticks that carry lyme disease, so I do at least two thorough tick checks 
after spending time in the woods.  Those little buggers know how to hide!  
Know how to identify poisen oak, ivy, wild parsnip, or any other 
"uncomfortable" plants that your area might have.  Seasoned locals are 
often the best to ask about those sorts of things.  Then, enjoy travelling 
a slower pace!

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[RBW] Re: OT but mentioned on the Blahg: Hiking

[Mat Grewe]

On Thursday, May 3, 2018 at 10:34:20 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Alternate between left foot and right. Stay on the trail unless you don’t 
> want to.


Well said!  Hike with whatever you have.  I have hiked with leather boots 
to barefoot and everything between and I haven't noticed a difference in my 
enjoyment of the trails (except when my wimpy feet get sore from going 
barefoot!).  Barring previous injuries that require it, ankle support is 
not needed, although it can be helpful on scree fields or super loose and 
steep terrain.  If you don't have much ankle strength, start short and work 
your way to longer trips over time to allow for all the little muscles and 
ligaments to strengthen.


As for hiking poles, I do have a chronic knee issue and poles of some kind 
reduce some of the impact to my knee.  Usually a good ole stick found in 
the woods does the trick.  Hiking this simple way, one cannot help evoking 
thoughts of Mr. Muir.





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[RBW] Re: Hunqabeam Quickapillar Frame Finished!

[Mat Grewe]

For those wishing to enter further nerdom, here is a link to reading the 
core 6 of Tokein's "Middle Earth" books chronologically!  It bounces 
between The Silmarillion, The Unfinished Tales, The Hobbit, and the three 
LOTR books.

http://www.chronology.org/tolkien/

Brilliant paint job!  If I ever got a custom bike, I always wanted to name 
it Felaróf , the horse who 
Shadowfax is a decedent of.  But for now, I am happy with my current steed, 
trusty ole Bill.

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[RBW] Re: How hearty/quiet Honjo Fenders?

[Mat Grewe]

I have smooth 60mm Honjos and do really like them, although I am conscience 
about the rumored fender collapse when I ride on trails, which isn't often 
enough to come up with a different system to ease said conscience.

However, every ride takes me through our grassy, leafy, occasionally stick 
littered lawn out in the country.  When dry leaves or grasses get picked up 
in the fender, I have a low rubber mud flap that scoop them up, I can 
definitely hear it scraping around.  Not being worried about a few leaves 
or dead grass collapsing the fenders, I ride on and fix it when I get to my 
door.

I have about 20mm of fender clearance and run slicks.  Rarely do I hear 
rocks shooting through, even when riding on wet or dry gravel roads.  Water 
sloshing around in my metal water bottle bugs me far more than the fenders 
do!

I have thought about doing some elegant form of combining this guy's 
fenders (Post #8 & 10 
) with 
chopped Honjos in places where I am not fearful of fenders collapsing 
(attached to a light tab on the rear rack and down to the chain stay; in 
front of the fork crown to just beyond the front rack), with heaps of 
clearance for knobbies and mud/snow.  But for the riding I do now I am 
happy with what I have.

Mat

On Sunday, April 8, 2018 at 5:59:42 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I’m contemplating hammered Honjo Fenders on my Quickbeam for all the wet 
> and slop, but, as my periodic fender posts attest, fender noise, heartiness 
> for my trail riding, and challenges with knobbies make the entire equation 
> iffy, which is why I’ve avoided the $132 expenditure trying everything else 
> first. 
>
> Thoughts from folks riding Honjo fenders on rough stuff and/or with 
> knobbies on how hearty and quiet and sturdy they are, especially in 
> comparison to SKS plastic? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick 
>
> www.CredoFamily.org 
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Everything is sold folks.  Thanks so much.

On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 10:26:18 AM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> Sale pending on the bar end shifter pods.
>
> On Monday, March 26, 2018 at 12:51:45 PM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>>
>> Just the bar end pods are still available.  Everything else has been sold.
>>
>>- Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickie Velogical Review

[Mat Grewe]

I apologize, I didn't mean to imply that the are not compatible, as I do 
not know myself!  Peter said they do not *guarantee* their lights are 
compatible.

On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 10:28:16 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> And apology if this was answered earlier, but do B and Schmidt lights 
> actually work with the Velogical or not?
>
> On Wed, Mar 28, 2018 at 3:12 PM, Mat Grewe <matg...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> Hey Peter,
>>
>> Out of curiosity, did B or Schmidt give a reason as to why their lights 
>> are not compatible with Velogical dynamos?  Or, has their stance changed in 
>> the last few years?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Mat
>>
>> On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 10:13:49 AM UTC-5, Peter White wrote:
>>>
>>> Keep in mind that while Velogical says that their dynamos are compatible 
>>> with a variety of name brand lights, both Busch & Müller and Wilfried 
>>> Schmidt do not guarantee that their lights are compatible with Velogical 
>>> dynamos. Both companies have asked me to advise against using their lights 
>>> with Velogical dynamos and to deny warrantee claims on damaged lights used 
>>> with Velogical dynamos.
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickie Velogical Review

[Mat Grewe]

Hey Peter,

Out of curiosity, did B or Schmidt give a reason as to why their lights 
are not compatible with Velogical dynamos?  Or, has their stance changed in 
the last few years?

Thanks,
Mat

On Friday, June 3, 2016 at 10:13:49 AM UTC-5, Peter White wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that while Velogical says that their dynamos are compatible 
> with a variety of name brand lights, both Busch & Müller and Wilfried 
> Schmidt do not guarantee that their lights are compatible with Velogical 
> dynamos. Both companies have asked me to advise against using their lights 
> with Velogical dynamos and to deny warrantee claims on damaged lights used 
> with Velogical dynamos.
>
> PJW
>
> On Fri, Jun 3, 2016 at 3:45 AM, Manos Carabassis  > wrote:
>
>> Hello Matthew,
>>
>>  Nice short review. Very significant that you also have a SON dynohub, so 
>> that you can actually
>> compare the Velogical against the "standard" one.
>>  I'm about to purchase a dynamo, the Velogical seems a nice solution.
>> My main concern is how drag evolves riding at higher speeds, contrary to 
>> dynohubs where output
>> voltage / power tend to stabilize above a speed on the Velogical speed / 
>> voltage and drag seem to 
>> be in a linear relation resulting in rather high drag numbers above 20mph.
>> My question is if you've felt such a drag increase above 20mph. 
>> Also comparing to the SON does the Velogical feel "heavier" at higher 
>> speeds ?
>> I guess the photo represents the actual Velogical dynamo, so you've got 
>> the "Trekking" edition.
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Sale pending on the bar end shifter pods.

On Monday, March 26, 2018 at 12:51:45 PM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> Just the bar end pods are still available.  Everything else has been sold.
>
>- Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Just the bar end pods are still available.  Everything else has been sold.

   - Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Albatross is now sold.  All other items are still available

   - Compass Randonneur 42cm wide and 25.4mm clamp - Lightly used - $75
   - Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25
   - Riser quill stem from 80's Bianchi MTB bike for 25.4mm clamp and 
   standard 1" quill - Has cosmetic scratches, but functions perfectly - $15

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Bar end shifter pods still available.  As is the quill stem.

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 3:04:34 PM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> For sale are some extra cockpit items that didn't end up working for me. 
>  All the prices include shipping CONUS.  If you want a couple items, let me 
> know and I can adjust shipping accordingly.  Thanks for looking!
>
>
>- Albatross Steel - Lightly used - $45
>- Compass Randonneur 42cm wide and 25.4mm clamp - Lightly used - $75
>- Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25
>- Riser quill stem from 80's Bianchi MTB bike for 25.4mm clamp and 
>standard 1" quill - Has cosmetic scratches, but functions perfectly - $15
>
>
> Mat Grewe
>

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[RBW] Re: Cockpit Items - For Sale

[Mat Grewe]

Sale pending on all items except quill stem.

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 3:04:34 PM UTC-5, Mat Grewe wrote:
>
> For sale are some extra cockpit items that didn't end up working for me. 
>  All the prices include shipping CONUS.  If you want a couple items, let me 
> know and I can adjust shipping accordingly.  Thanks for looking!
>
>
>- Albatross Steel - Lightly used - $45
>- Compass Randonneur 42cm wide and 25.4mm clamp - Lightly used - $75
>- Silver bar end shifter PODS ONLY - Lightly used - $25
>- Riser quill stem from 80's Bianchi MTB bike for 25.4mm clamp and 
>standard 1" quill - Has cosmetic scratches, but functions perfectly - $15
>
>
> Mat Grewe
>

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