Re: [RBW] Rapid rise derailleur rec

[Ron Mc]

I'm a metallurgist and licensed PE - relaxing RD spring absolutely extends 
spring life.  

OP's question - Microshift R10 (made by Sun XCD)
https://www.charlottecycles.com/product/microshift-r10-rear-derailleur-377496-1.htm

On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 11:08:38 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:

> BTW, another little 'pro' tip 
>
> When you put your bike up, release tension on RD by shifting to the end so 
> that spring is relaxed. For sure, I have no empirical evidence this extends 
> spring life / strength, but it can't hurt, right?
>
> Jock
>
> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 8:56 AM John Dewey  wrote:
>
>> Robert, I've been shifting with XT M760 RR on JD bikes for many years. No 
>> derailleur envy or interest in experimenting with other systems. I 
>> collected them and so very happy I did. They were plentiful and reasonably 
>> priced...until they weren't.
>>
>> Grant is now building RR rear mechs, too, as I bet y'all know. It's 
>> beneficial to have the power going up the cassette when you need the extra 
>> juice.
>>
>> BTW, YMMV...but I'm not so good at shifting back & forth, i.e. moving 
>> from RR / normal / RR / normal. I find it difficult to switch habits.
>>
>> Jock
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 2, 2024 at 5:05 AM Robert Blunt  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> I was wondering if anyone could make a recommendation on which Shimano 9 
>>> speed rapid rise derailleur you have had the best experience with and which 
>>> has sufficient amounts of silver on it to look ok.
>>> Robert Blunt
>>> Pennington NJ
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Dialing in a Brooks Saddle

[Ron Mc]

My bikes with B-17 are semi upright.  

My bikes with level saddle/stem and drop bars are Swallow or Pro

On Wednesday, January 31, 2024 at 1:50:46 AM UTC-6 Steven Sweedler wrote:

> FWIW my bikes are set up with B-17 s level and  with the bars level to the 
> saddle, works for me. 
>
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>
>
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2024 at 3:27 AM Jay  wrote:
>
>> Next week I'll be throwing a leg over a Roadini for the first time (I 
>> posted a couple weeks ago about the frame I ordered) and I thought I was 
>> set on my saddle, but decided yesterday I need to try something very 
>> different.  
>>
>> A little bit of background before I get to my question...
>>
>> When I started cycling around 20 years ago I had Brooks B17 on my road 
>> bike (custom geometry, not too aggressive) and a Masi commuter bike.  It 
>> was a while ago so I can't recall what I liked about them, and why I 
>> eventually stopped using them, but I do recall one memory...I always used 
>> padded bib shorts (still do) and one day in the winter I went for a 2hr 
>> ride and only realized when I got home that I just had on my underwear and 
>> tights.  In at least that way for me at that time, the saddle was that 
>> comfortable.
>>
>> Since that time I've used a lot of plastic saddles from Fizik, Selle 
>> Italia and the latest is a Prologo (147mm wide, with a bit of padding).  I 
>> used this saddle on two bikes the last 4 months and it was a noticeable 
>> improvement over the Selle Italia saddles I was using previously.  I 
>> thought this is what I would use on the Roadini (and still may, in the long 
>> run).  But when I use it on my Salsa Fargo (bar level with saddle) and ride 
>> for 2+ hours, I get friction and general discomfort.  And can I ride 
>> without padded bib shorts?  Heck no, I can't even go around my block 
>> without bibs when using this saddle.
>>
>> To get to my point, I ordered a B17 in Honey to try out on my Roadini.  
>> I'm getting it tomorrow and I'm going to try it on my Fargo (nice weather 
>> for next little while).  I know that overall I need to be patient, only 
>> change one thing at a time, and only small adjustments.
>>
>> My thinking, where I wanted to get your input, is that I would be set up 
>> the bike so saddle and bars are level, and will likely start with the 
>> saddle level (from what I recall this will have the rear of the saddle 
>> where my sit bones are located, pointed down a bit, but that's how my 
>> Prologo is today and I can ride in the drops and take my hands off and I'm 
>> balanced...so I think I'll start there and see how it goes).
>>
>> Any other words of wisdom that I can consider?  Thanks in advance.
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: [650B] Re: Onza pedal pla

[Ron Mc]

http://mombatbicycles.com/MOMBAT/PartsForSalePages/pedals.html

Contact this bike shop and ask if you can mail your pedals in for rebuild.  

On Sunday, January 28, 2024 at 7:22:05 PM UTC-6 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
wrote:

> Cartridge bearing goes to the end of the spindle & cannot be removed
>
>  
>
> The cartridge moves about 1 cm in & out 
>
> It is clamped down with a nut which does not itself reduce the movement.
>
> The movement is reduced by the outboard pedal endcap when tightened down. 
>
> Tried washers various torques. 
>
> I have come the conclusion its evil spirits & I can’t afford an exorcist. 
>   
>
>  
>
> *From:* 65...@googlegroups.com <65...@googlegroups.com> * On Behalf Of *Jeff 
> Bertolet in Raleigh, NC
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 28, 2024 3:29 PM
> *To:* 650b <65...@googlegroups.com>
> *Subject:* [650B] Re: Onza pedal pla
>
>  
>
> I am not familiar with those, but they look a little like the old Time 
> ATAC Alum pedals, internally at least. IIRC, the Alum had a tiny bearing on 
> the outboard end and a bushing close to the crank.
>
>  
>
> What is inside the pedal body? Are there needle bearings? Does a small 
> cartridge bearing go on the end of the spindle?
>
> On Friday, January 26, 2024 at 9:49:16 AM UTC-5 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
> wrote:
>
> I have 2 sets of Onza spd pedals (with elastomers).  Both have developed a 
> little play.  They have cartridge bearings. One set has 9,000.00 miles the 
> other 3,000.. 
>
> Cleaning & regreasing only a little help 
>
> Minimum adjustment options. 
>
>  
>
> Any experience or suggestions?
>
>  
>
> I’d like to keep em, one of em has a ti spindle.
>
>  
>
> Bernard 
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: play in Onza pedals

[Ron Mc]

Pedal clicking is usually in the big bushings or wear in the shaft itself.  
You'll note rebuilds kits include these two items, plus the bearings.  
Found this on ebay - price is right if it matches your pedal.  
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155873406654

On Friday, January 26, 2024 at 9:19:41 AM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> If you have a sealed bearing object that has developed play IN THE 
> BEARINGS, and you insist on making the play go away*, then you have to 
> replace the bearings.  It is generally a lot easier to install cartridge 
> bearings than it is to remove them.  Some sealed bearing objects are 
> designed with no intention of bearings ever being removed.  Even those 
> objects that are designed to have replaceable bearings, it typically 
> requires a special tool.  
>
> So, for your ~30 year old Onza pedals, long out of production, you'll need 
> to figure it out for yourself or hire somebody who has already figured it 
> out.  Like, if there is such a thing as a tiny bearing puller, and it cost 
> $100, would you buy that tool?  Have you fully removed the spindle and 
> confirmed the play is in bearings?  Some pedals have plastic bushings 
> instead of bearings at the outside end.  Do you have those?  Bushings are 
> relatively straightforward to remanufacture, in a hobbyist machine shop.  
>
> *if you decide you can live with it, it may get worse, but there's little 
> chance of damaging anything else, and the pedals won't fly apart.  
>
> Bill Lindsay 
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Friday, January 26, 2024 at 6:48:51 AM UTC-8 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I have 2 sets of Onza spd pedals (with elastomers).  Both have developed 
>> a little play.  They have cartridge bearings. One set has 9,000.00 miles 
>> the other 3,000.. 
>> Cleaning & regreasing only a little help 
>> Minimum adjustment options. 
>>  
>> Any experience or suggestions?
>>  
>> I’d like to keep em, one of em has a ti spindle.
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] B17 alternatives

[Ron Mc]

Silly me, never considered there was an alternative to Brooks.  
I'm backed up, with a couple stashed Select and L/E saddles I bought for 
$99 close-out.  
But if I was in the saddle market, I'd go to BikeTiresDirect and buy a B17 
Special at their discount.  

On Wednesday, January 24, 2024 at 6:44:12 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> While I still have a couple of well-loved and trusty B17s in service, I am 
> now a loyal Gilles Berthoud convert. I’ll second Luke’s recommendation on 
> the Aspin (or Aravis if you’re feeling na$ty). They’re gorgeous saddles, 
> the thicker leather doesn’t “hammock” like Brooks sometimes can, and 
> everything is replaceable/rebuildable. Plus, they are a great company to 
> deal with.
>
> Brian
> Lex KY. 
>
> On Jan 24, 2024, at 1:22 AM, Luke Hendrickson  
> wrote:
>
> I encourage you to try a Berthoud Aspin. Wide like a B17, but with a 
> narrower nose/front end that leads to a sportier saddle and less thigh rub. 
> It doesn’t hurt that it’s also exceptionally beautiful. 
>
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS -looong winter storm list

[Ron Mc]

Hi Rich, 
actually, my folks up the road made a big pot of soup and shared. a small 
pot with me - I've have to get the recipe from them.  
Trader Joe's sells he good tortilla chips for soup.  
Viner CX is matched with Ahearne MAP bar.  When I picked the stem, I took 
the measurements from the outside reach to my International with Moustache 
bar. 
Regards

On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:18:24 PM UTC-6 richdpow...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Tortilla soup? I vote that recipe exchanges are on-topic! In this weather, 
> it is about survival with soup. :-) 
>
> Serious note: is that an Albatross bar on the Viner?
>
> -Rich, Colder than it should be in Iowa.
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 11:14:39 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Make tortilla soup, pedal it off watching tv
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

[Ron Mc]

What makes a bike joyous is not 1 mph, 15 mph, or 23 mph, but the dynamic 
changes between those velocities.  

On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 7:25:57 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> Chris made some good points.   I am not justifying a heavy bike, merely 
> pointing out what you can expect if you take that trip & 'go down the 
> rabbit hole' wrt to reducing frame weight and overall weight including the 
> rims/tires.  You may not get your kicks on Rt 66 ('when you take that CA 
> trip...")
>
> Good point on wheels.   If you maintain a constant speed, you minimize the 
> acceleration and reduce the effect wheels have.   But real world riding has 
> a lot of acceleration , so lighter wheels help.  The biggest effect was 
> probably the change from STEEL RIMS to AL RIMS in rotational inertial.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 08:05:11 PM EST, Chris Fly <
> four...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> if you just look at the numbers, you can go down a long rabbit hole and 
> certainly justify a heavy bike.. I agree 1mph isn't anything.. what you 
> can't justify with numbers is what a heavy bike *feels* like when 
> riding.. some heavier bikes certainly can "ride light", but many don't in 
> my experience.. same with heavier wheels or tires, my 650b Hilsen with 
> Rich-built wheels and 42mm Compass tires do NOT feel like they spin up as 
> well as my Serotta with HED Belgium tires with 28mm Vittoria Corsas on it.. 
>
> I would never begrudge someone riding what they want to ride, but often, 
> heavy is just that.. heavy..
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 4:49:18 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, Woodstown 
> NJ wrote:
>
> During a appearance on The Opiniated Cyclist, Richard Schwinn stated the 
> following:  Reducing the bike weight by 12 lbm, increases your speed by 1 
> mph, given the same power input from testing Schwinn did.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:11:36 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
> 
> It will always have a dyno hub. I just can’t give up that kind of 
> practicality. I didn’t know Paul components would save me any weight but 
> I’m glad if they do. My Velo Orange levers were pretty feather-light 
> already though. 
>
> I probably do have the Platy set up as light as I dare, save the 
> drivetrain stuff from White Industries. And Richard has a good point that 
> all that money would only save me a third of a pound.
>
> On Jan 14, 2024, at 8:40 AM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
> Does the raspberry Platy still have a dyno hub? If so that would be a big 
> gain as far as weight loss and lessening drag. Otherwise you have it set up 
> fairly light from what I remember about your posts. Paul components will 
> sure help shave some grams.
>
>
> When weight is brought up the first thing Grant would say is take weight 
> off the engine. Well I just took a massive amount of weight off the engine 
> so I feel that I am now free and clear to be a weight weenie about the 
> bike. :)
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

[Ron Mc]

The scalar involved here, 6 lbs, and 15 lbs, hardly fits into weight weenie 
discussion.  
But I do remember a thread about why some bikes feel faster.  Less energy 
going into changing the rotational speed of components means more energy 
going directly into drive.  

On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 12:31:30 PM UTC-6 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> I am not a weight weenie. I will take the beauty over the weight. I have 
> enough low gears to not even think about. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> ...loving my beautiful retirement bicycle. 
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 9:50:38 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> It's interesting to view a moderately weight weenie thread on this list! 
>>  expect Rivendell make their frames as heavy as they are largely to 
>> avoid breakage and resulting costs of return or repairs; that's a guess. 
>>
>> But reviewers of even the Clem, which I gather from list discussions is 
>> built with heavier tubing than the Platypus, describe it as feeling agile 
>> and fast; I recall Patrick O'Grady's very favorable review of his new Clem 
>> some years ago I can't find it right now but I did come across a surprising 
>> number of positive reviews of the Clem in the -- well, perhaps not 
>> mainstream but certainly not RBW-list media.
>>
>> I do think weight matters to how fast (or to put the same thing another 
>> way, how easy to pedal) a bike *feels,* but IME it's not the only or 
>> even the most determining factor, as some of the fastest "feeling" bikes 
>> I've owned have been relative tanks, and even had rather heavy wheels, tho' 
>> none had f+f+wheels. weighing 18 lb.
>>
>> But I've certainly owned frames much lighter than Rivendells that seemed 
>> as able to carry loads and be durable and, in some cases, consistently feel 
>> faster than the Rivs they replaced - tho' I've owned heavy frames that also 
>> felt faster than comparable Rivendells.
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 14, 2024 at 10:19 AM Chris Fly  wrote:
>>
>>> ... I fully believe a 15# weight difference WILL make a fairly big 
>>> difference on a ride, esp one with hills.. at least for how I like to ride. 
>>> I got my first Riv back in 2008ish and Grant certainly wasn't worrying 
>>> about weight then as my Bleriot I had was certainly overbuilt for sure, but 
>>> it wasn't too crazy.. 
>>
>>
>>> Anyway, I'm certain I'm the outlier here in my thinking and that's ok, I 
>>> still love looking at the classic Rivs and enjoy riding my Dad's AHH. 
>>>
>>> Chris in Sonoma County 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Silver crank surprise and the weight of things

[Ron Mc]

Kinda like alloy rims vs. steel, you'll notice the inertia difference 
between a heavy and light crank when climbing.  

On Saturday, January 13, 2024 at 12:01:42 PM UTC-6 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> I will say I was surprised when I weighed my 2 piece Silver crank (double) 
> vs the White Industries single that I planned to put on my Susie. The 
> Sliver was over a pound heavier. I think my Susie was under 30lbs but I 
> never weighed it. 
>
> I  usually don’t think much about the weight because of the racks and 
> loads I’m always carrying but some parts really are just crazy heavy!
>
> On Saturday, January 13, 2024 at 6:16:21 AM UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Good Morning. First, I’d never really weighed either my Clem or Gus. Only 
>> thing I did was weigh myself on bathroom scale then repeat while holding 
>> the bike. If memory serves I was about 32lbs. for Clem & 34lbs. for Gus. I 
>> will finish putting the Clem back together while recording each of the 
>> component weights. I will then try to record an accurate total bike weight. 
>> If this cold spell continues I may do the same with the Gus. One motivation 
>> for this is the following Gus review;
>> [image: Rivendell-Gus-Boots-Willsen-Review-hero.jpeg]
>>
>> The Rivendell Gus Boots Willsen Hillibike Makes a Case for 550mm 
>> Chainstays 
>> 
>> bikerumor.com 
>> 
>> 
>> Ron has a nice Instagram with nice details on his Gus build. But, he 
>> claims 26-27 lbs.!!!
>> I questioned him about this expressing my dismay. His bike is a large as 
>> is mine. We have the same wheels (cliffhangers) but his hubs are lighter 
>> than mine I think. His tires (Ehline) are lighter than my Honchos. His is a 
>> modern 1x drivetrain (10 or 11?) with a White Industries crank. Mine is a 
>> Riv standard Silver wide/low with 7 speed Jim cassette. Both have B17’s. 
>> His post is a Thompson, mine is a Kalloy. We both have a Paul Boxcar stem. 
>> His persuader handlebar is aluminum, my Albacore is Chromo.
>> In short, I have a hard time seeing a 7-8lb. Difference given these 
>> differences. But, I now am beginning to comprehend how little things can 
>> add up. Whatever my Gus weighs I adore riding it. I might be over the moon 
>> if I could lose 7 lbs.!! And before anyone suggests I’d be better off just 
>> losing 7lbs. my weight is pretty optimized now.:)
>> I hope this helps.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 13, 2024, at 12:57 AM, Ed Fausto  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hi Richard (I hope I got your name right),
>>
>> Please provide more details.  Like you I have a 51 Gus and it weighs 
>> 40lbs and I am having second thoughts of bringing it to my next big trip.
>> I am thinking of bringing my 48 Hunqapillar but I prefer the ride quality 
>> of my Gus.
>> I also consider myself not a weight weenie when buying parts and 
>> accessories.
>> But after getting my Gus, it felt heavy compared to my 48 Hunqapillar 
>> (26"), 50 Atlantis (26") and 51 Appaloosa (650b).
>>
>> Thanks Richard!
>>
>> On Saturday, January 13, 2024 at 9:05:10 AM UTC+8 rmro...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I am in the middle of a cold weather tear down / deep cleaning of my 
>>> Clem L. This project started with ordering a new chain & large chainring to 
>>> replace worn units. I start taking things apart and am unable to stop. 
>>> Bottom bracket felt crappy so took it out and everything was just really 
>>> dirty so I did not stop until I had a bare frame. In the process a couple 
>>> of interesting things were discovered.
>>> First item pertains to the new chainring for my Silver wide / low crank. 
>>> Its aluminum of course as described by Riv. What is interesting is the 
>>> original was steel and a relative boat anchor! This discovery led me down a 
>>> rabbit hole of weighing everything. I have never been a weight weenie even 
>>> less so since getting my Rivs. But, armed with a very accurate scale and a 
>>> driveway covered in snow I started taking notes...
>>> That aluminum chainring saved me 85 grams weighing in at a scant 58.5 
>>> grams vs the originals 163.5. Held in ones hand that felt like at least a 
>>> pound. I am curious about when Riv started making the larger rings out of 
>>> aluminum?
>>> The size 52 Clem L bare frame with headset cups installed weighs 2,932 
>>> grams or 6lbs. 7.4 ounces, topping my list of things I did not need to know.
>>> The bare fork is 1,063 grams or 2lbs. 5.5 ounces. I feel certain the 
>>> fork on my large Gus is twice that!
>>> My 650b cliffhanger wheels built with 36 hole deore hubs shod with 
>>> Simworks Homage tires mounted with tubes come out to 4lbs. 7.1 ounces rear 
>>> and 4lbs. 0.3 ounces front. Cassette and q.r. skewers not included.
>>> I will be weighing everything else before assembly but probably will not 
>>> bore the group with 

Re: [RBW] Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

I've made the switch to urethane tubes, too - used to run latex, but the 
stem glue started giving up on them.  
One problem with Scwalbe version, the plastic stems give up at the valve 
core, which is a terrible reason for an expensive tube to flat.  
So far, Tufo are my favorites, with brass stems - haven't flatted one yet.  
Amaing ride with linen-casing tires.  
On Saturday, January 13, 2024 at 9:59:46 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:

> Well, I think I’ve made several of mine faster by mounting TPU tubes. Real 
> or imagined is anybody’s guess. For sure, my active imagination tells me 
> these bikes feel more lively and sound faster…meaning what I don’t know. 
> But I like the sound of my 5000s as they vibrate with these tubes. And what 
> is for certain, there is reduction in rotational weight. 
>
> Of course, I could also wear fine silk socks, maybe achieve same result. 
> YMMV. 
>
> Jock
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 28, 2023 at 2:35 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> This is hardly a new question for me or for others, but it is a question 
>> that strikes me anew when I ride the 1999 Joe Starck and find, once again 
>> as always in getting on for 25 years of ownership that *it's just easier 
>> to maintain speed and cadence in given conditions in given gears,* this 
>> both on the flats and on hills. I remember being struck by this, again at 
>> the start of each ride on it, in the first years of ownership.
>>
>> Tires make a difference, tho' it felt this way with 571 X 23 mm Conti 
>> Grands Prix and Michelin Pro Races and with 559 X 23 mm Specialized Turbos; 
>> with the slightly wider (27.19 mm rear at 60 psi and 27.49 mm front at 55 
>> psi on my 19 mm OW rims) and even lighter and more supple Elk Passes it 
>> feels even faster and *smoother.* 
>>
>> BTW, I wholly discountenance the opinion that harshness or vibration 
>> makes riders think they're going fast. At least, perhaps some people do 
>> that, but I've always associated harshness with slowness and smoothness 
>> with speed. But again, the '99 has always felt *smooth* and *fast.*
>>
>> What provoked this perennial question was my very pleasant mid-afternoon 
>> ride today. My route included about 1 mile of steep hill starting at 
>> Broadway and, feeling tired and sluggish and being old I considered 
>> swapping the Phil 17/19Dingle wheel (76" and 68") with the SA TF wheel (76" 
>> and 57" underdrive), but didn't want the bother and decided I'd just walk 
>> if necessary.
>>
>> I did plan to move the chain to the 19 t/68" gear once I got downtown, 
>> but didn't do this, either. Winds variable up to about 7-8 mph.
>>
>> I took it easy but found myself following some youngster on a thin-tire 
>> 700C derailleur hybrid for about 8 miles; I finally caught up to him at the 
>> first light on Coal and followed him up the climb. I think he was a UNM 
>> student and at least 45 years younger than I, and he put a few yards on me 
>> up the hill spinning in a low gear but I was surprised once again (this is 
>> the point, don't mind my meandering) at *how well and easily* the bike 
>> climbs.
>>
>> ???
>>
>> Planing? The frame is not as over-beefy as the 2003 Goodrich custom but 
>> it's not as light and certainly has fatter tubes than the wonderful 
>> thinwall 531 normal gauge 2020 Matthews replacement of the 2003.
>>
>> Weight? With the Phil it's right at 18 lb without bottle or bag versus 
>> ~28 for the Matthews road with F+R racks, fenders, lights, and SA 3 speed 
>> hub, and versus the 30-31 lb of the Matthews road-bike-for-dirt with 2X10 
>> derailleur drivetrain, 50 mm tires, 2X gauge fenders, dynamo lighting, and 
>> rear rack. But it feels fast on the flats at steady-state cruising. I 
>> daresay that the weight makes a difference on hills, but I *don't* think 
>> that weight is the only reason.
>>
>> I know that some bikes just fit and feel "perfect," and this is one of 
>> them (tho' the 2 Matthewses fit just about the same since I built them up 
>> to do so). That old Herse was a tank that 2 earlier owners sold for cheap 
>> but for me it rode "fast" if not as fast as the 1999 Joe Starck.
>>
>> To end this meandering: since so much of my riding is either errands 
>> requiring bags or dirt requiring fat tires the 1999 gets ridden less than 
>> it otherwise would, but if I had to get ride of all bikes but one, I'd 
>> happily keep this and build 1 or 2 alternative wheelsets (geared/skinny, 
>> geared/fattish) and buy a bit selection of strap-on saddlebags from repair 
>> kit only to Sackville Medium.
>>
>> I've owned 5 Rivendells including 3 customs and this one is the last 
>> (tho' the 2020 Matthews is a copy of the 2003).
>>
>> Sorry, can't resist posting again:
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, 

Re: [RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

'73 catalog, Grand Touring was straight-gauge 1020
[image: Capture.JPG]

On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 11:13:15 AM UTC-6 John Hawrylak, Woodstown 
NJ wrote:

> P Moore asked:   "what besides tubing stiffness might make a main triangle 
> stiff or stable?"
>
> Frame size:  small frames are stiffer than large frames.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 10:48:14 AM EST, Patrick Moore <
> bert...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> And yet that very light 531 normal gauge 1973 Motobecane frame handled 
> heavy rear loads (all comparisons on Tubus Fly racks) better than much 
> stouter frames. Why should that have been?
>
> To turn that into another question: what besides tubing stiffness might 
> make a main triangle stiff or stable?
>
> It was rather remarkable: That presumably thinnish-wall, and certainly 
> lighter, normal gauge 531 Motobecane handled rear loads better (for *me* -- 
> this is all judged by seat-of-pants feel -- than that (for me) overbuilt 
> 2003 Curt frameset, and better than with the Ram.
>
> Fond memory: grunting 45 lb on the rear Fly in a 67" fixed gear on that 
> Motobecane up an *uber-*steep 4/10 mile hill at 4 mph by the bike 
> computer -- yep, 20 rpm. 
>
> On Fri, Jan 12, 2024 at 6:13 AM Ron Mc  wrote:
>
> Hi Patrick, on the rear load thing - that stability is in the main 
> triangle. 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

Hi Patrick, on the rear load thing - that stability is in the main 
triangle.  
People sought out old Raleigh Grand Prix to build touring bikes because of 
the straight-gauge 10-20 tubes and rigid main triangle.  
In comparison, my International frame has too much flex in the main 
triangle to carry a rear load, but it's a wonderful ride and climber.  
Regards

On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 4:34:47 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Oh, one more tangentially related remark: The best bikers I've owned for 
> rear load carrying have had light and flexy frames; most notably the 1973 
> Motobecane Grand Record whose frame felt so light compared to that 2003 Riv 
> Curt custom and was noticeably more flexible. The flexy-flyer early -ed 
> Raleigh Technium sports tourer also carried rear loads very well, better 
> than the current 2020 Matthews; and the current .8 .4 .8 normal gauge 531 
> 2020 Matthews, if not the best load carrier, does as well as the over-stiff 
> 2003 Curt and the 2nd gen Rambouillet; Tubus Flys, tho' the 2003 later had 
> a Matthews custom rack and the 2020's Fly was modified in by Bilenky to, 
> among other things, to sit lower over the shorter, 26" wheel.
>
> On Thu, Jan 11, 2024 at 3:29 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I'm sure weight makes a difference; I'm not convinced it makes all the 
>> difference since I've had at least a couple of bikes that consistently felt 
>> "faster" despite weighing 10 or 12+ lbs more than the 1999. I expect as 
>> others have said that it is a happy coincidence of weight, flex, tires, 
>> fit, and position.
>>
>> The 2 Matthews -- fat tire road bike for dirt, 26" wheel road bike for 
>> errands -- actually have, I think, thinner tubing and lighter frames, 
>> proportions preserved, than the 1999. The 2020 Matthews errand bike frame 
>> was deliberately built with lighter, more flexible tubes than the 2003 Riv 
>> Goodrich custom which cloned the 1999, and indeed, with Elk Passes, I began 
>> to think that it might even be faster than the 1999 despite it's 8 or 10 lb 
>> greater weight. It feels fast with the el NPs but no longer a competitor to 
>> the 1999. The 622 fat tire Matthews felt almost as fast with the Big Ones 
>> (and only slightly slower again with the Somas, preferred for their 
>> pavement handling) and despite a 12 or 13 lb weight difference, but part of 
>> that may have been the "feel" of longer 175 mm cranks, tho this too had 
>> thinwall (OS) tubing.
>>
>> But again: the 1958 Herse felt (consistently over 18 or 24 months) 1 cog 
>> faster than "usual" despite thick-wall tubes that caused 2 other owners to 
>> pass it on cheap, heavy weight (forget, but it must have been at least 28 
>> lb if not more with racks), and ho-hum 32 mm Paselas. Tho' the thick-wall 
>> tubing was normal gauge.
>>
>> Again, all of these and my other bikes have been set up for largely the 
>> same riding position.
>>
>> Too look at the question from the reverse -- What made a bike feel so 
>> slow and awkward? -- the Monocog is a good instance, tho' it's current and 
>> improved "feel" is merely "nice" and not superlative. When I got it, with 
>> stiff, heavily knobbed and IIRC wire bead tires, OEM wide (2012) bar, and 
>> 172 mm Q crank, it just felt penitential to ride, on dirt and certainly on 
>> pavement. Supple (relatively) WTB Rangers, 156 mm Q crank, close-in 44 cm 
>> (hoods) drop bar with no ramps, tiny-reach upjutter stem (7 cm along 
>> extension, 30 or 35* rise), now it's actually fun to ride. What hasn't 
>> changed is the girder-stiff tubing.
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 1:22 PM 'John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ' via RBW 
>> Owners Bunch  wrote:
>>
>>> Bill L questioned the 12# weight difference.
>>>
>>> I sort of missed the 12#, mainly since Bike D was stated to 'feel fast' 
>>> and I assumed B & C would use heavier tubing due to the 73 to 75# load 
>>> requirement and A must be thick gauge tubing given the 30# weight (Schwinns 
>>> in the 1980"s used 1010 18 gauge tubing in lugged frames and quoted 30 to 
>>> 32# weights).
>>>
>>> I admit D should be about 1 mph faster than the A, B C due to the 11 to 
>>> 13# weight difference (basis R Schwinn stated Schwinn tests showed 12# 
>>> change in frame resulted in a 1 mph change with same effort).   I focused 
>>> on the 'feel fast' vs 'tested and shown faster'.
>>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Jewelry for my Platypus

[Ron Mc]

Can't get too much Paul or too much bling - anxiously awaiting results 
photos.  
A bike with that much love may also need a christening - what's his/her 
name?  

On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 6:30:43 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’m anxious to see your impressions of the Paul Motolite brake setup. In 
> my experience, the combo of Love lever and Motolite v-brake has the best 
> feel, best stopping power, and easiest setup and adjustment of any brake 
> setup I’ve ever used. 
>
> -Brian
> Lex Ky 
>
> On Jan 12, 2024, at 7:23 AM, Tim Bantham  wrote:
>
> That is a really cool story and so glad to hear. I am an absolute sucker 
> for anything Paul. The moto-lite brakes and Love Levers are my all time 
> favorites. Although I didn't need much persuading you have inspired me to 
> pony up the dough to swap out the parts for Paul Components on my own 
> Platypus. 
>
>
> On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 12:44:11 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> That rose is so pretty. I grant your swanky new Paul brakes my 
>> highest praise, they're RIDICULOUS 
>>
>> On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 5:28:30 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>> I have never had Paul anything. I’ve had whatever brakes and levers came 
>>> with my bikes and didn’t think any more about it. I did get my VO brake 
>>> levers anodized, but that batch of rose pink ano faded freakishly fast and 
>>> everything was silver 4 months later. 
>>>
>>> But I’m giving it another chance. Everyone talks about Paul, and Paul 
>>> sometimes offers their parts in pretty, anodized colors, but currently, 
>>> they do not. I emailed the company, asking if they happened to have any of 
>>> their pink levers laying around that they would be willing to sell me. I 
>>> got an email back from Paul, like THE Paul, who directed me to an employee 
>>> I won’t name here. He and I got in contact and he was so fun, right from 
>>> the start. We chatted and he looked at my bikes (I sent him my pics via 
>>> email) and we made a plan. 
>>>
>>> We colored it all. 
>>>
>>> The bolts, the brake body, the levers, the barrel adjustors ALL of it. 
>>>
>>> The parts came in 3 boxes, plus one extra little envelope. The envelope 
>>> had a small personalized gift from my new friend at Paul, just because, 
>>> with a handwritten note in the prettiest handwriting I’ve ever seen. Swoon! 
>>> I opened the first box and it was wrapped like origami inside. I uncovered 
>>> the first gorgeous pieces and the breath left my body. So beautiful. 
>>> Quality even a novice can’t miss. Just what I wanted. Rich, rose color. 
>>>
>>> I would need to be with bike people to get the full joy out of this 
>>> experience. My bike shop knows about Paul Components. A blizzard is on its 
>>> way to Michigan and I knew my shop would not be busy. I put the pieces back 
>>> in the box, loaded the boxes and my bike in the van and drove to the shop. 
>>> I came in and there were 4 mechanics and zero customers. “Guys!” I said, “I 
>>> have a fun project for us to do, and I can’t do it without you! Who wants 
>>> to see what is in these boxes?” 
>>>
>>> So there we were on company time, hovering over these immaculate little 
>>> parcels, oohing and aahhing. There was extra swag in there, stuff I had 
>>> never seen. 
>>>
>>> “What’s this?” I asked, holding up a flat, wooden thing with Paul 
>>> emblems. 
>>>
>>> “It’s a carpenter’s pencil,” said the mechanic. I gave it to him.
>>>
>>> I left the bike with them and I should have it in the next couple/few 
>>> days, depending on how long the blizzard rages for. Not that I’ll get to 
>>> ride and try those beautiful Paul parts out; we are getting up to a foot of 
>>> snow! For now they are only a visual treat. I can’t even imagine how 
>>> enamored I will be when I get to actually USE the brakes. 
>>>
>>> And what nice people. I was not expecting them to be so personable! I 
>>> have heard they are a small operation, but they *are* famous in their 
>>> own right - celebrity machinists, really - yet so kind to a layperson like 
>>> me.
>>>
>>> Here’s the photo I got before the parts shipped. “Whatcha think?” he 
>>> asked. 
>>>
>>> Oh, he knew. He knew he knocked it straight outta the park.
>>>
>>> Leah
>>>
>>>  
>>>
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> .
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[RBW] Re: Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Ron Mc]

Hi Adam, 
take a look at VO Rando crank.  
If you can find them, Sun XCD makes their 50.8 BCD and chainrings, which 
I'm running on 2 bikes.  .  
I was on SJS Cycles last night looking at rings, and noticed they still 
have some T/A-5 chainrings.  
On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:15:06 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from a 
> triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.
>
> What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I think 
> that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ for me. 
> Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in the 140s?
>
> Second, drivetrain stuff is a little new to me. What determines how small 
> a q factor a specific bike can have? I'm assuming chainstays play a role 
> here? This hypothetical project is for a Hillborne, so I'd be curious what 
> folks have used to get low q on their Hillbornes. I'm assuming I may have 
> to change the BB as well.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Adam
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxxhoKVVCvg

I don't know how to embed this, or whether good will embed it, but the 
youtube link is the mode shape that produces planing from the rear 
triangles.  


On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 10:02:55 AM UTC-6 Keith P. wrote:

> Really interesting points Ted.
> Thanks for writing them up!
> k.
>
> On Jan 9, 2024, at 6:12 AM, Bill Schairer  wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> I love your explanation!  My niece is a college crew coach and she also 
> cycles.  I will have to ask her about "swing."
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Monday, January 8, 2024 at 7:15:31 AM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:
>
> Not to be overly contrarian, but ...
>
> Planing is a terrible word for the phenomenon in question, which is when 
> the flex characteristics of the bike are such that the energy stored in 
> deformation (of the frame and all the attached parts) is efficiently 
> returned to power the rear wheel during the lower power part of the 
> pedaling cycle. When a boat planes, it rises out of the water, resulting in 
> a large reduction in coefficient of drag. The equivalent on a bicycle would 
> be the development of a vacuum around the bike and rider at a certain 
> speed. That would be fun, but it's certainly not what's happening on earth. 
> Ironically, there is a well-known and used term in Jan's back yard, for the 
> exact phenomenon he is trying to describe. Rowers have long used the word 
> "swing" to describe a shell and oars whose flex characteristics synchronize 
> well with their strokes, allowing them to go faster for a given power 
> output. Jan claims that bikes that "plane" magically increase a rider's 
> power output, but the reality is that bikes that swing well waste less of 
> the rider's  power. A better way to put it might be that such a bike puts 
> more of the rider's power to the back wheel. 
>
> The flex characteristics of the frame are important, of course, but the 
> entire bicycle (and its rider) is a system of springs and in such a system 
> the softer springs affect flex first, with the stiffer springs becoming 
> more relevant as the forces increase. For most of us on this list, we don't 
> spend a lot of time putting enough power into the pedals to get to the 
> point where frame flexibility is significantly tested. At 57kg, I can tell 
> you that I rarely put out that kind of power. I have a brevet bike made of 
> .7/.4/.7 standard diameter tubing, and I can make that frame flex, but not 
> for very long. That bike rides on 42mm tires at about 33 psi, and the tires 
> are definitely the soft springs in that system.
>
> I don't attribute aluminum, or stiffer frames in general, to an increased 
> focus on cadence. Track cyclists have always been obsessed with cadence. 
> With the introduction of multiple gear systems for road biking came the 
> opportunity to develop notions of "ideal" cadence. Note that when Jan talks 
> about frames "planing" for him, he almost always talks about it working for 
> his preferred cadence. Stiff frames, in fact, reduce the importance of 
> cadence, as they reduce the contribution of the frame to swing (for a given 
> power input). For me, cadence is only important when going uphill or into a 
> headwind. It is important because I need enough momentum in my feet to keep 
> a steady speed. Without that momentum, I am repeatedly accelerating during 
> the power phase and decelerating during the non-power phase. That is 
> terribly inefficient. And that is why, as discussed in the recent thread on 
> gearing, it is so important to have low gears in steep hills. Long before 
> aluminum frames were a twinkle in Gary Klein's eyes, cyclists talked about 
> "staying on top of a gear" when climbing. It meant to maintain a fast 
> enough cadence that you were pedaling smoothly, maintaining a constant 
> speed. Cyclists have also long talked about using smaller gears and a 
> higher cadence to "work your heart, not your legs." 
>
> So, I also don't have _the_ answer to why some bikes seem/feel/are faster 
> than others. Many of my best Strava times on climbing segments and my best 
> 100km time are on my Heron prototype, which is a road frame but has the 
> heavy rear stays from the touring frame. You can feel the weight of the 
> stays (and the weight of the old SunTour freewheel) when you pick up the 
> bike. Maybe it's just that I have so much invested in that bike that it 
> inspires me to push a little harder. I tend to believe Jan's hypothesis 
> that stiffness in the downtube and chainstays and flex in the top tube, 
> relative to each other, help a bike swing in a way that returns energy to 
> the rear wheel. Interestingly, old Reynolds tube sets were always spec'd 
> that way, with thinner walls in the top tube than in the down tube. 
> Somewhere along the way they switched to the Columbus standard, where top 
> tube and down tube walls are the same. The Heron Road bikes have .1mm 
> thinner top tube walls than down tube, and my prototype has 

[RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

Terrible word or not, it's easier to use the word than to describe the 
natural frequency that occurs in the rear triangles, to take excess mash 
energy and push the frame forward, making the bike feel lighter.  It's a 
true phenomenon of steel, designed into good-climbing bikes, and it's 
always a joy to feel yourself accelerating on grades.  

On Monday, January 8, 2024 at 9:15:31 AM UTC-6 Ted Durant wrote:

> Not to be overly contrarian, but ...
>
> Planing is a terrible word for the phenomenon in question, which is when 
> the flex characteristics of the bike are such that the energy stored in 
> deformation (of the frame and all the attached parts) is efficiently 
> returned to power the rear wheel during the lower power part of the 
> pedaling cycle. When a boat planes, it rises out of the water, resulting in 
> a large reduction in coefficient of drag. The equivalent on a bicycle would 
> be the development of a vacuum around the bike and rider at a certain 
> speed. That would be fun, but it's certainly not what's happening on earth. 
> Ironically, there is a well-known and used term in Jan's back yard, for the 
> exact phenomenon he is trying to describe. Rowers have long used the word 
> "swing" to describe a shell and oars whose flex characteristics synchronize 
> well with their strokes, allowing them to go faster for a given power 
> output. Jan claims that bikes that "plane" magically increase a rider's 
> power output, but the reality is that bikes that swing well waste less of 
> the rider's  power. A better way to put it might be that such a bike puts 
> more of the rider's power to the back wheel. 
>
> The flex characteristics of the frame are important, of course, but the 
> entire bicycle (and its rider) is a system of springs and in such a system 
> the softer springs affect flex first, with the stiffer springs becoming 
> more relevant as the forces increase. For most of us on this list, we don't 
> spend a lot of time putting enough power into the pedals to get to the 
> point where frame flexibility is significantly tested. At 57kg, I can tell 
> you that I rarely put out that kind of power. I have a brevet bike made of 
> .7/.4/.7 standard diameter tubing, and I can make that frame flex, but not 
> for very long. That bike rides on 42mm tires at about 33 psi, and the tires 
> are definitely the soft springs in that system.
>
> I don't attribute aluminum, or stiffer frames in general, to an increased 
> focus on cadence. Track cyclists have always been obsessed with cadence. 
> With the introduction of multiple gear systems for road biking came the 
> opportunity to develop notions of "ideal" cadence. Note that when Jan talks 
> about frames "planing" for him, he almost always talks about it working for 
> his preferred cadence. Stiff frames, in fact, reduce the importance of 
> cadence, as they reduce the contribution of the frame to swing (for a given 
> power input). For me, cadence is only important when going uphill or into a 
> headwind. It is important because I need enough momentum in my feet to keep 
> a steady speed. Without that momentum, I am repeatedly accelerating during 
> the power phase and decelerating during the non-power phase. That is 
> terribly inefficient. And that is why, as discussed in the recent thread on 
> gearing, it is so important to have low gears in steep hills. Long before 
> aluminum frames were a twinkle in Gary Klein's eyes, cyclists talked about 
> "staying on top of a gear" when climbing. It meant to maintain a fast 
> enough cadence that you were pedaling smoothly, maintaining a constant 
> speed. Cyclists have also long talked about using smaller gears and a 
> higher cadence to "work your heart, not your legs." 
>
> So, I also don't have _the_ answer to why some bikes seem/feel/are faster 
> than others. Many of my best Strava times on climbing segments and my best 
> 100km time are on my Heron prototype, which is a road frame but has the 
> heavy rear stays from the touring frame. You can feel the weight of the 
> stays (and the weight of the old SunTour freewheel) when you pick up the 
> bike. Maybe it's just that I have so much invested in that bike that it 
> inspires me to push a little harder. I tend to believe Jan's hypothesis 
> that stiffness in the downtube and chainstays and flex in the top tube, 
> relative to each other, help a bike swing in a way that returns energy to 
> the rear wheel. Interestingly, old Reynolds tube sets were always spec'd 
> that way, with thinner walls in the top tube than in the down tube. 
> Somewhere along the way they switched to the Columbus standard, where top 
> tube and down tube walls are the same. The Heron Road bikes have .1mm 
> thinner top tube walls than down tube, and my prototype has extra heavy 
> stays, so there you go.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

Grand would understand what I'm saying, about finding form in yourself, and 
finding the dynamics in your frame.  
I can't quote the exact copy, but once I read Grant copy to the effect, try 
*not* shifting as often, so you don't ride in cadence.  

On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 12:20:52 PM UTC-6 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ 
wrote:

> +1 on Bill L's thoughts on Ford Blue.   I would suggest planning as the 
> frame is large (25"??) and if a normal wall tubing was used, the large 
> frame might plane without being too flexible.   Do you know what wall 
> thickness was used???   Maybe it's better not to know, following Bill's 
> line of thought.
>
> PS, the darker blue bars contrast nicely.   Would Ford use a white??
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Thursday, December 28, 2023 at 5:35:08 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> This is hardly a new question for me or for others, but it is a question 
>> that strikes me anew when I ride the 1999 Joe Starck and find, once again 
>> as always in getting on for 25 years of ownership that *it's just easier 
>> to maintain speed and cadence in given conditions in given gears,* this 
>> both on the flats and on hills. I remember being struck by this, again at 
>> the start of each ride on it, in the first years of ownership.
>>
>> Tires make a difference, tho' it felt this way with 571 X 23 mm Conti 
>> Grands Prix and Michelin Pro Races and with 559 X 23 mm Specialized Turbos; 
>> with the slightly wider (27.19 mm rear at 60 psi and 27.49 mm front at 55 
>> psi on my 19 mm OW rims) and even lighter and more supple Elk Passes it 
>> feels even faster and *smoother.* 
>>
>> BTW, I wholly discountenance the opinion that harshness or vibration 
>> makes riders think they're going fast. At least, perhaps some people do 
>> that, but I've always associated harshness with slowness and smoothness 
>> with speed. But again, the '99 has always felt *smooth* and *fast.*
>>
>> What provoked this perennial question was my very pleasant mid-afternoon 
>> ride today. My route included about 1 mile of steep hill starting at 
>> Broadway and, feeling tired and sluggish and being old I considered 
>> swapping the Phil 17/19Dingle wheel (76" and 68") with the SA TF wheel (76" 
>> and 57" underdrive), but didn't want the bother and decided I'd just walk 
>> if necessary.
>>
>> I did plan to move the chain to the 19 t/68" gear once I got downtown, 
>> but didn't do this, either. Winds variable up to about 7-8 mph.
>>
>> I took it easy but found myself following some youngster on a thin-tire 
>> 700C derailleur hybrid for about 8 miles; I finally caught up to him at the 
>> first light on Coal and followed him up the climb. I think he was a UNM 
>> student and at least 45 years younger than I, and he put a few yards on me 
>> up the hill spinning in a low gear but I was surprised once again (this is 
>> the point, don't mind my meandering) at *how well and easily* the bike 
>> climbs.
>>
>> ???
>>
>> Planing? The frame is not as over-beefy as the 2003 Goodrich custom but 
>> it's not as light and certainly has fatter tubes than the wonderful 
>> thinwall 531 normal gauge 2020 Matthews replacement of the 2003.
>>
>> Weight? With the Phil it's right at 18 lb without bottle or bag versus 
>> ~28 for the Matthews road with F+R racks, fenders, lights, and SA 3 speed 
>> hub, and versus the 30-31 lb of the Matthews road-bike-for-dirt with 2X10 
>> derailleur drivetrain, 50 mm tires, 2X gauge fenders, dynamo lighting, and 
>> rear rack. But it feels fast on the flats at steady-state cruising. I 
>> daresay that the weight makes a difference on hills, but I *don't* think 
>> that weight is the only reason.
>>
>> I know that some bikes just fit and feel "perfect," and this is one of 
>> them (tho' the 2 Matthewses fit just about the same since I built them up 
>> to do so). That old Herse was a tank that 2 earlier owners sold for cheap 
>> but for me it rode "fast" if not as fast as the 1999 Joe Starck.
>>
>> To end this meandering: since so much of my riding is either errands 
>> requiring bags or dirt requiring fat tires the 1999 gets ridden less than 
>> it otherwise would, but if I had to get ride of all bikes but one, I'd 
>> happily keep this and build 1 or 2 alternative wheelsets (geared/skinny, 
>> geared/fattish) and buy a bit selection of strap-on saddlebags from repair 
>> kit only to Sackville Medium.
>>
>> I've owned 5 Rivendells including 3 customs and this one is the last 
>> (tho' the 2020 Matthews is a copy of the 2003).
>>
>> Sorry, can't resist posting again:
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> 

[RBW] Re: Roaduno

[Ron Mc]

I may be first in line for this one as my First Rivendell.  
I can ride forever with 75", 65" and 45" gears.  

On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 10:32:33 AM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Speaking of Roaduno, I read in one of the earlier updates that the new 
> bike is very similar to a Homer geometrically. I also saw some reference to 
> it being offered as a complete. I cannot wait to learn of all the details.

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[RBW] Re: Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

And I use 3x6 half-step triple with form, core muscles, spin, mash and 
planing.  
My only x9 is a compact double with a road ring and an off-road ring.  

On Sunday, January 7, 2024 at 8:41:28 AM UTC-6 sarahlik...@gmail.com wrote:

> If you paint your bike a fast color, your bike goes faster.
>
> On Thursday, December 28, 2023 at 2:35:08 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> This is hardly a new question for me or for others, but it is a question 
>> that strikes me anew when I ride the 1999 Joe Starck and find, once again 
>> as always in getting on for 25 years of ownership that *it's just easier 
>> to maintain speed and cadence in given conditions in given gears,* this 
>> both on the flats and on hills. I remember being struck by this, again at 
>> the start of each ride on it, in the first years of ownership.
>>
>> Tires make a difference, tho' it felt this way with 571 X 23 mm Conti 
>> Grands Prix and Michelin Pro Races and with 559 X 23 mm Specialized Turbos; 
>> with the slightly wider (27.19 mm rear at 60 psi and 27.49 mm front at 55 
>> psi on my 19 mm OW rims) and even lighter and more supple Elk Passes it 
>> feels even faster and *smoother.* 
>>
>> BTW, I wholly discountenance the opinion that harshness or vibration 
>> makes riders think they're going fast. At least, perhaps some people do 
>> that, but I've always associated harshness with slowness and smoothness 
>> with speed. But again, the '99 has always felt *smooth* and *fast.*
>>
>> What provoked this perennial question was my very pleasant mid-afternoon 
>> ride today. My route included about 1 mile of steep hill starting at 
>> Broadway and, feeling tired and sluggish and being old I considered 
>> swapping the Phil 17/19Dingle wheel (76" and 68") with the SA TF wheel (76" 
>> and 57" underdrive), but didn't want the bother and decided I'd just walk 
>> if necessary.
>>
>> I did plan to move the chain to the 19 t/68" gear once I got downtown, 
>> but didn't do this, either. Winds variable up to about 7-8 mph.
>>
>> I took it easy but found myself following some youngster on a thin-tire 
>> 700C derailleur hybrid for about 8 miles; I finally caught up to him at the 
>> first light on Coal and followed him up the climb. I think he was a UNM 
>> student and at least 45 years younger than I, and he put a few yards on me 
>> up the hill spinning in a low gear but I was surprised once again (this is 
>> the point, don't mind my meandering) at *how well and easily* the bike 
>> climbs.
>>
>> ???
>>
>> Planing? The frame is not as over-beefy as the 2003 Goodrich custom but 
>> it's not as light and certainly has fatter tubes than the wonderful 
>> thinwall 531 normal gauge 2020 Matthews replacement of the 2003.
>>
>> Weight? With the Phil it's right at 18 lb without bottle or bag versus 
>> ~28 for the Matthews road with F+R racks, fenders, lights, and SA 3 speed 
>> hub, and versus the 30-31 lb of the Matthews road-bike-for-dirt with 2X10 
>> derailleur drivetrain, 50 mm tires, 2X gauge fenders, dynamo lighting, and 
>> rear rack. But it feels fast on the flats at steady-state cruising. I 
>> daresay that the weight makes a difference on hills, but I *don't* think 
>> that weight is the only reason.
>>
>> I know that some bikes just fit and feel "perfect," and this is one of 
>> them (tho' the 2 Matthewses fit just about the same since I built them up 
>> to do so). That old Herse was a tank that 2 earlier owners sold for cheap 
>> but for me it rode "fast" if not as fast as the 1999 Joe Starck.
>>
>> To end this meandering: since so much of my riding is either errands 
>> requiring bags or dirt requiring fat tires the 1999 gets ridden less than 
>> it otherwise would, but if I had to get ride of all bikes but one, I'd 
>> happily keep this and build 1 or 2 alternative wheelsets (geared/skinny, 
>> geared/fattish) and buy a bit selection of strap-on saddlebags from repair 
>> kit only to Sackville Medium.
>>
>> I've owned 5 Rivendells including 3 customs and this one is the last 
>> (tho' the 2020 Matthews is a copy of the 2003).
>>
>> Sorry, can't resist posting again:
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

I have to take exception with you Patrick - the people I know who are 
concerned with cadence came from aluminum bikes, never change their 
cadence, can tell you what is their cadence, and are always shifting.  
On a good steel frame, you spin and mash and, yes, you still change gears, 
possibly not as often.  All of us on friction shifting anticipate and shift 
early, and our "cadence" is all over the place.  
Dailing into the sweet spot is never a constant rpm.  

On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 7:18:27 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> On Sat, Jan 6, 2024 at 6:16 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> ... Still, I think there are things "beyond your head" that make certain 
>> bikes feel this way
>>
>
>
> http://www.matthewbcrawford.com/new-page-1-1 
>

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Re: [RBW] Why do some bikes just feel consistently faster?

[Ron Mc]

To me, cadence is an aluminum word - a word that didn't exist in cycling 
before the requirement for redundant structure and excess rigidity in 
aluminum frames.  
Without cadence, finding the natural frequency that planes you bike on a 
grade is, well, natural.  

On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 5:33:01 PM UTC-6 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

> Jason, I find your hypothesis to be the most plausible one yet. I think 
> most of us will concede that the perception of a bike being fast is a 
> subjective thing. It comes down to a bit of magic occurring between the 
> rider and the bike and I'd say you have put your finger on what that magic 
> is.
>
> Steve in Asheville
>
>
>  
>
> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 3:14:10 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> My two hypotheses are 1) the frame stiffness is perfectly matched to your 
>> power output at optimal cadence, so you do get that energy return known as 
>> planing and/or 2) the fit is perfectly matched to your biomechanics, which 
>> I believe can be sensitive enough that even a bike with similar numbers 
>> might be ever-so-slightly off and it actually has a pretty adverse effect 
>> on your output.  But these are just hypotheses, in reality I have no idea!  
>> It does seem that there is a certain 'magic' that cannot be explained by 
>> bike weight or aerodynamics.  
>>
>> On Saturday 6 January 2024 at 11:11:13 UTC-8 philip@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> The bikes you like the most ride the fastest.
>>>
>>> That’s just science!
>>>
>>> P. W.
>>> ~
>>> (917) 514-2207
>>> ~
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Dec 28, 2023, at 2:35 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> This is hardly a new question for me or for others, but it is a question 
>>> that strikes me anew when I ride the 1999 Joe Starck and find, once again 
>>> as always in getting on for 25 years of ownership that *it's just 
>>> easier to maintain speed and cadence in given conditions in given gears,* 
>>> this 
>>> both on the flats and on hills. I remember being struck by this, again at 
>>> the start of each ride on it, in the first years of ownership.
>>>
>>> Tires make a difference, tho' it felt this way with 571 X 23 mm Conti 
>>> Grands Prix and Michelin Pro Races and with 559 X 23 mm Specialized Turbos; 
>>> with the slightly wider (27.19 mm rear at 60 psi and 27.49 mm front at 55 
>>> psi on my 19 mm OW rims) and even lighter and more supple Elk Passes it 
>>> feels even faster and *smoother.* 
>>>
>>> BTW, I wholly discountenance the opinion that harshness or vibration 
>>> makes riders think they're going fast. At least, perhaps some people do 
>>> that, but I've always associated harshness with slowness and smoothness 
>>> with speed. But again, the '99 has always felt *smooth* and *fast.*
>>>
>>> What provoked this perennial question was my very pleasant mid-afternoon 
>>> ride today. My route included about 1 mile of steep hill starting at 
>>> Broadway and, feeling tired and sluggish and being old I considered 
>>> swapping the Phil 17/19Dingle wheel (76" and 68") with the SA TF wheel (76" 
>>> and 57" underdrive), but didn't want the bother and decided I'd just walk 
>>> if necessary.
>>>
>>> I did plan to move the chain to the 19 t/68" gear once I got downtown, 
>>> but didn't do this, either. Winds variable up to about 7-8 mph.
>>>
>>> I took it easy but found myself following some youngster on a thin-tire 
>>> 700C derailleur hybrid for about 8 miles; I finally caught up to him at the 
>>> first light on Coal and followed him up the climb. I think he was a UNM 
>>> student and at least 45 years younger than I, and he put a few yards on me 
>>> up the hill spinning in a low gear but I was surprised once again (this is 
>>> the point, don't mind my meandering) at *how well and easily* the bike 
>>> climbs.
>>>
>>> ???
>>>
>>> Planing? The frame is not as over-beefy as the 2003 Goodrich custom but 
>>> it's not as light and certainly has fatter tubes than the wonderful 
>>> thinwall 531 normal gauge 2020 Matthews replacement of the 2003.
>>>
>>> Weight? With the Phil it's right at 18 lb without bottle or bag versus 
>>> ~28 for the Matthews road with F+R racks, fenders, lights, and SA 3 speed 
>>> hub, and versus the 30-31 lb of the Matthews road-bike-for-dirt with 2X10 
>>> derailleur drivetrain, 50 mm tires, 2X gauge fenders, dynamo lighting, and 
>>> rear rack. But it feels fast on the flats at steady-state cruising. I 
>>> daresay that the weight makes a difference on hills, but I *don't* think 
>>> that weight is the only reason.
>>>
>>> I know that some bikes just fit and feel "perfect," and this is one of 
>>> them (tho' the 2 Matthewses fit just about the same since I built them up 
>>> to do so). That old Herse was a tank that 2 earlier owners sold for cheap 
>>> but for me it rode "fast" if not as fast as the 1999 Joe Starck.
>>>
>>> To end this meandering: since so much of my riding is either errands 
>>> requiring bags or dirt requiring fat tires the 1999 gets ridden less than 

Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Decaleur

[Ron Mc]

oops, this was the link I wanted to share on Tad's Umberto Dei condorino 
restoration
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/1940-umberto-dei.179124/

On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 8:53:02 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:

> thank you Takashi, the Mercian is a labor of love x2, and I'm going to end 
> up writing you an essay.  
>
> My friend Tad put the Woody's fenders on the bike.  Background on Tad, he 
> has a hobby business restoring and turning antique bikes.  Part of his job 
> includes traveling in the company tradeshow van.  He previews Craigslist, 
> makes appointments, and brings home bikes and parts.  Best example of his 
> work, this 1940 Umberto Dei, from bare frame to this condorino with the 
> correct chaincase and Dei-pantogrammed chainset - even a Dei-pantogrammed 
> bike bell.  
> [image: A92AE443-F071-4438-A925-ECF02A1B56D7.jpeg] [image: 
> C5CF7551-9F4B-445C-AB27-24682312CC83.jpeg]
>
> https://thecabe.com/forum/attachments/a92ae443-f071-4438-a925-ecf02a1b56d7-jpeg.735360/
> At one point, he had to generate $10,000 to help his son, and sold a 
> stable of bikes, including the Dei, 
> but he held out the Mercian for me, because he knew I would want it.  
>
> We're polar opposites on building bikes - he wants period reproduction, I 
> want comfort and reliability.  
> Everything he used on the Mercian was worn out - he rode the bike twice - 
> clicking bottom bracket, clicking 1st generation Phil hubs, molasses 
> freewheel, clicking headset.  Dura Ace brakes that made you stop like Fred 
> Flintstone.  Cinelli 65 deep drops.  V-O front rack that formed a truss and 
> took the life and soul from that marvelous fork.  
> [image: 7CBko1k.jpg] [image: 4atVIBe.jpg]
>
> The only parts I kept were the fenders, seat post, crank arms, shifters 
> and FD.  
> It took me miles of road shock and a year to work all this out and bring 
> her back to life.  I had a NOS Blueline RD to replace the aged VGT.  
> Phil BB, new Tange headset, wheelset built on Grand Bois 6-sp cassette 
> hub, stem to fit me, Cinelli 64 bar, Gran Compe CP brakes and mini rack.  
> BTW, the best fit and most tire under the wood fenders are Challenge "open 
> tubular" (clincher), because of their short sidewalls.  
> Here's my final gear chart, and final form.  
> [image: LSJQShl.jpg]
> [image: qXVvT4f.jpg]
>
> On Saturday, January 6, 2024 at 8:00:48 AM UTC-6 Takashi wrote:
>
>> Hi Ron,
>>
>> I'm not in need of a decaleur right now, but that Mercian is so beautiful!
>> (It's no secret that I'm partial to wooden fenders.)
>>
>> Takashi
>>
>>
>> 2024年1月6日土曜日 13:17:52 UTC+9 Ron Mc:
>>
>>> Thanks again, Steve - this is my longest-term bike, and the baseline for 
>>> measurements any time I build a bike.  
>>> It's cozy beyond words.  Great aero position on the moustache bar, and 
>>> the wide reach gives you excellent control.  
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Berthoud Decaleur

[Ron Mc]

Thanks again, Steve - this is my longest-term bike, and the baseline for 
measurements any time I build a bike.  
It's cozy beyond words.  Great aero position on the moustache bar, and the 
wide reach gives you excellent control.  

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[RBW] Re: Knicker Quest

[Ron Mc]

I managed over a few yearsto find two other knicker brands both on closeout 
that I like, and of course, now also discontinued.   
MUSA spoiled me for the cinch at the bottom that keeps cold air from my 
knees.  
I looked at everything offered on this page.  
The Keela SF, also discontinued, look perfect by the last pair that was on 
ebay.  
The Aerotech looked good enough, I bought a pair.  

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[RBW] Re: Knicker Quest

[Ron Mc]

I managed over a few to find two other both both on closeout knicker brands 
that I like.  
MUSA have me spoiled for the cinch at the bottom that keeps cold air from 
my knees.  
I looked at everything offered on this page.  
The Keela SF, also discontinued, look perfect by the last pair that was on 
ebay.  
The Aerotech looked good enough, I bought a pair.  


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[RBW] Re: Ride length on Jitensha/Map type bars? Updated my Redwood.

[Ron Mc]

I added hand positions to my Ahearne Map bar using a Nitto 2-70 double lamp 
bracket and a pair of mountain bar ends
Did it first just for winter mag trainer time to give me different torso 
positions.  But when I tried it on the road, loved it and wrapped it 
permanent.  

 


This is an all-day bike with more time spent in the middle of the bar than 
on the ends.  

 


Also changed the bike from a parachute into a pretty good headwind slicer.  

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[RBW] Re: 1/1/20 Blahg

[Ron Mc]

As Grant well pointed out, SunTour lives on in every derailleur made 
today.  




In 1988, even Campy bit the bullet and copied SunTour






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[RBW] Re: Thin Gripster alternatives?

[Ron Mc]

I'll add that I have an issue with the VP pedals - they have an ersatz wide 
spot that cost me a sprained ankle before I replaced them.  At their widest 
point, they're wide for no reason except to strike the ground.  
The widest safe pedals I use are Race Face Atlas, with Blackspire Sub Four 
a close second.  

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Re: [RBW] Thin Gripster alternatives?

[Ron Mc]

Miles and miles, my favorite spiked platform pedals are Blackspire.  
I keep a spare pair.  They have a rebuild service that costs $16 US, which 
is really the postage to return them. 

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[RBW] Re: F/S New packaged Barlow EL tan wall + bonus

[Ron Mc]

all done here - thanks again

On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 9:53:49 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> sale pending...
>
>

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[RBW] Re: F/S New packaged Barlow EL tan wall + bonus

[Ron Mc]

sale pending...

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[RBW] Re: Chacos vs. Bedrocks

[Ron Mc]

This is exactly why they fit me, but like all shoes made from recycled 
rubber, Chacos have finite life, and fail with surprise.  Merrills fit me 
the same way and last much longer.  

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 1:21:22 AM UTC-5, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Chacos have a high arches and thick soles.  I tried them and the arch 
> kills my feet and I can’t wear them without getting leg pains.   The Chacos 
> are also really heavy. 
>
>

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[RBW] F/S New packaged Barlow EL tan wall + bonus

[Ron Mc]

I have a brand new in sealed package Barlow, 700c x 38mm, extralight 
casing, tan wall for sale.  Jan wants $82 +shipping.  
I'll sell this for $85 shipped, Priority Mail fixed rate.  
The bonus is a second relatively low-mileage tire that was on the front.  
An inexpensive way to get into a set of quality tires.  

(I decided the chainstays were happier with the clearance of 35mm)

Contact through this gmail, I can take paypal or G-pay to this gmail.  
Thanks for looking !!!

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[RBW] Re: New bike woes - Albatross bars and Brooks B17 Special saddle

[Ron Mc]

Internet incredulity notwithstanding, if your new Brooks saddle hurts, you 
either have the wrong saddle or have it in the wrong position.  

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[RBW] Re: New bike woes - Albatross bars and Brooks B17 Special saddle

[Ron Mc]

Breaking-in Brooks saddles is an internet myth resulting from 
misapplication and improper adjustment.  Leather stretch is the 
life-limiting mechanism for Brooks saddles, and anything you do to 
accelerate it is simply shortening the life of the saddle.  
The B-17 is too wide for a drop-bar road bike, and a brand-new B-15 is the 
most invisible saddle I've ever ridden in that application.  B-17 fits me 
perfectly on 2 semi-upright bikes.  
If you haven't gone through different positions on the saddle nose, that's 
the place to start.  
Otherwise, you probably need the B-67 if B-17 isn't working for you.  

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[RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[Ron Mc]

What Dave said, Paul cantis, especially combined with Paul levers, are the 
best brakes extant. 

On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:53:17 AM UTC-5, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> Hey Erik,
>
> You are going to get a million opinions but Pauls are really easier than 
> all other canti's to setup.  The mechanism they use to control spring 
> tension is just so easy to adjust.  I also think getting some good Kool 
> Stop pads makes a huge difference.
>

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[RBW] Re: Weird Comments from the Peanut Gallery...

[Ron Mc]

I always pass those guys on the next climb - few people can climb with me

On Thursday, April 4, 2019 at 9:47:01 AM UTC-5, Robert Hakim wrote:
>
> This wasn't so recent as it was memorable... 
>>
>>
> A few short days after my partner and I moved to our new neighborhood, we 
> were riding back from the store- groceries in the basket. 
> A spandex clad racer on an uber-stiff, ultra racey carbon rig slowed down 
> as he passed us and in a very odd, loony voice proclaimed:
>
>  "Ha! People! Real, live people! On bikes!"
>
> Then he down-shifted and sped off. 
>
> The route we take to the store is quite popular with recreational roadies, 
> wannabee racers, and actual racers. Sometimes one will see things like 
> grocery bags dangling from aero-bars on tri-bikes. The coffee shop in the 
> neighborhood is often filled with the click-clack of road cleats and carbon 
> soles, and echoes with the elitist, competitive "I rode farther and faster" 
> chatter one would expect around so many racers.
>
> I'm not quite sure if that rider was mocking us, or praising our 
> individuality for riding more practical bicycles in an area where "sport" 
> riding is the generally accepted style. 
>
> Either way, it was a very bizarre interaction, and both Emily and I were 
> so dumbfounded as to what had happened that we couldn't even think of a 
> reply as he raced away.
> We just looked at each other, shrugged, and giggled. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird Comments from the Peanut Gallery...

[Ron Mc]

A server at the Sunday morning coffee stop drooling over a Cervelo S5 
"parked among all these townies"

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Re: [RBW] Best smallish rear rack for long chainstay models?

[Ron Mc]

oops, I see the touring store is closed and BikeShopHub.com picked up his 
inventory...
I've done business with both

On Saturday, March 30, 2019 at 9:45:45 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Both Tubus and Nitto offer long stays and adjustable rod clamps to make 
> their racks very versatile.  
> Tubus Vega rack on my daughter's upright.  
>
> <https://i.imgur.com/QKZ8Jti.jpg>
> Not a particularly long wheelbase, but you can see how long and skewed 
> weree the stays needed on this application.  
> The Touring Store is a good place to shop for Tubus.  
>

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Re: [RBW] Best smallish rear rack for long chainstay models?

[Ron Mc]

Both Tubus and Nitto offer long stays and adjustable rod clamps to make 
their racks very versatile.  
Tubus Vega rack on my daughter's upright.  


Not a particularly long wheelbase, but you can see how long and skewed 
weree the stays needed on this application.  
The Touring Store is a good place to shop for Tubus.  

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[RBW] Re: Friction down tube shifters

[Ron Mc]

Paul, made me check.  My Chorus DT shifter covers 150-degrees over the 
width of a Record 8sp cassette, 130mm OLD.  Should be the same pull to 
cover a 10s, but not sure about Shimano vs. Campy pull distance.  
As far as sensitivity, it shifts better than anybody's index - picking the 
next gear is a mindless adjustment you can make even before pedaling.  

 

Without question, Triomphe and earlier Campy DT shifters don't have the 
cable pull.  

On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 2:28:57 PM UTC-5, PaulS wrote:
>
> Thanks for that.  I will look into those as well.  I am currently 
> researching info to see if old Campagnolo DT shifters will work.  I'm 
> getting mixed info.  Those Dia Compe's look pretty cool, too.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction down tube shifters

[Ron Mc]

Almost certain the Diacompe-Ene are Silvers.  

On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 9:54:48 AM UTC-5, eddietheflay wrote:
>
> not a ton of time on the ones I recently installed, but so far smooth and 
> steady:
>
> http://www.diacompe.com.tw/product/ene-w-shift-lever/
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction down tube shifters

[Ron Mc]

Matching cable pull is everything.  The very best I have with long cable 
pull are Campy Chorus.  The best I have with short cable pull are Campy 
Victory

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[RBW] Re: Newbaums Be Gone

[Ron Mc]

try mineral spirits

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cargo e-bikes are an amazing concept, but the options are imperfect

[Ron Mc]

you're welcome - fresh in my humor, it was all I could think of when the 
topic came up...

On Wednesday, March 20, 2019 at 11:46:53 PM UTC-5, Ash wrote:
>
> Thank you Ron!  
>
> This clip made my day.  Showed it to everyone in the family!
>
> On Sunday, 17 March 2019 15:41:39 UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I watched What's Up Doc the other day, and forgot how hilarious that 
>> movie is.  
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZJhF-eT0MI
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross bars for a Moustache antagonist

[Ron Mc]

I also confess to be a moustache inamorato

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[RBW] Re: Albatross bars for a Moustache antagonist

[Ron Mc]

oh yeah, Riv eqivalent is Wavie Bar

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[RBW] Re: Albatross bars for a Moustache antagonist

[Ron Mc]

Map bars may be your compromise.  
My upright built with Map bar is my easiest bike to set up on a winter 
trainer, but I didn't like only the upright riding position.  
I added a core muscle position using a Nitto double lamp bar and MB bar 
ends.  
Was able to spend a winter dialing it in.  

  


When I got it on the road, I liked the 3 positions it gave me so much, 
wrapped it and made it permanent

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cargo e-bikes are an amazing concept, but the options are imperfect

[Ron Mc]

I watched What's Up Doc the other day, and forgot how hilarious that movie 
is.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZJhF-eT0MI

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[RBW] Re: Coffee grinders -- I **know** that this is NOT off topic!

[Ron Mc]

Another nice thing about the Capresso burr grinder - cleaning is simple - I 
mostly use a drip machine with basket, and this the only fine-grind machine 
I've ever used that doesn't leave any residue in the bottom of my coffee 
mug.  

On Saturday, March 16, 2019 at 9:38:56 AM UTC-5, Rick Thompson wrote:
>
> I use a blade grinder same as you, 20 seconds is perfect fine grind. I 
> have a manual burr grinder for backup and camping, but to get the same 
> grind is a fair level of elbow grease.
>
> Fresh Peet's beans every week, no freezing.
>
> I used to use fairly expensive electric burr grinders (I remember one was 
> a Cuisinart). IMO these are much harder to clean than the simple blade 
> grinder. About every month I had to dis-assemble and clean out a sludge of 
> coffee oils and powder from the burrs and all passages.
>
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Coffee grinders -- I **know** that this is NOT off topic!

[Ron Mc]

I've been through $50 Cuisinart burr grinders every 3 years for the past 
9.  
This time I upgraded to a Capresso 565, which grinds Slow.  
The product comes in perfect uniform grains, no matter how tiny, and zero 
dust.  
Even grind size eliminates bitterness, and best part is the uniform coarser 
grind I can get is perfect for coffee-press brew.  

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[RBW] Re: Changing brake hoods

[Ron Mc]

I've installed Campy style non-aero levers both ways - from the clamp end 
first, as well as over the lever first.  
But if you're wrapped right, shouldn't be anything to take the sleeved 
mounting nut from your clamp bolt without removing the clamp or affecting 
the wrap.  

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[RBW] Re: Ethics Question

[Ron Mc]

It's always ethical to get the SunTour RD, by hook or crook

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[RBW] Re: Spare Nitto Parts?

[Ron Mc]

Bob's got it, Ben's stocks all Nitto small parts

On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 6:34:44 AM UTC-6, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Maybe this?
>
>
> https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-seat-clamp-bolt-assembly---s65/seatpost_part_nitto__870-972-10/product
>
> Bob
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell tinkering..

[Ron Mc]

Not riding in somebody else's pre-defined riding position, it should take 
100 miles of focused effort to dial in any bike - seat, stem height, 
bar-rotation at stem.  

 
Another really good approach is put it on a trainer and find all your 
riding positions.  

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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Ron Mc]

<https://i.imgur.com/MGw2pnz.jpg?2>
and I forgot to add this gratuitous photo

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 8:03:06 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Steve, that's a Soma Wingman, and they started by cleaning up the idea of 
> using the CP brake arm - 
> https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/wingmann-light-mount . 
> For my standoff, I used a speargun tip-thread converter, 5/16"-24 to M6.  
> The whole thing casts a really nice light pattern across the top of the 
> tire, giving me a good light cone for pedaling before dawn.  
>
> On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 7:51:01 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> What is that arm?  I know some folks have used half of a centerpull brake 
>> as a lamp bracket, but that doesn't quite look like one.   In my case, I 
>> just used a piece of aluminum stock I'd gotten from Home Depot some years 
>> before that was left over from another project.  The Edelux lamp works fine 
>> when mounted to a typical front rack, and in my set-up is almost at that 
>> same height.  I can see where a lamp meant to be mounted to a handlebar 
>> such as yours might have to be mounted higher.
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Ron Mc]

Steve, that's a Soma Wingman, and they started by cleaning up the idea of 
using the CP brake arm 
- https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/wingmann-light-mount . 
For my standoff, I used a speargun tip-thread converter, 5/16"-24 to M6.  
The whole thing casts a really nice light pattern across the top of the 
tire, giving me a good light cone for pedaling before dawn.  

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 7:51:01 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> What is that arm?  I know some folks have used half of a centerpull brake 
> as a lamp bracket, but that doesn't quite look like one.   In my case, I 
> just used a piece of aluminum stock I'd gotten from Home Depot some years 
> before that was left over from another project.  The Edelux lamp works fine 
> when mounted to a typical front rack, and in my set-up is almost at that 
> same height.  I can see where a lamp meant to be mounted to a handlebar 
> such as yours might have to be mounted higher.
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Ron Mc]

Steve, totally effective and totally sexy.  

<https://i.imgur.com/SZ7nGny.jpg> <https://i.imgur.com/4MRRw8V.jpg>

next to compare are our two functional uses of a Brit right-fork lamp 
bracket boss

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 7:05:53 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 2/13/19 11:40 PM, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Bill, those long front French-style fenders (Honjo) buffet badly without 
> the additional front rack attachment - to the point you worry about them 
> possibly contacting the tire at speed.  
>
>
> Let me amend that: "...without an additional front rack attachment *or an 
> extra stay to stabilize the front of the fender*" like this:
>
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How do you choose fenders--colors, materials, etc., whether to fender or not

[Ron Mc]

Here's one choice - my buddy's '85 Merc with aggressive road geometry 
barely fits 23mm tires


He has the Portland Design Works fenders and he needed them on this 
morning, riding in a steady mist

Another friend's '85 Merc, very different frame geometry (note the trail), 
a bit bigger tires and wooden fenders

  


  

My '74 Raleigh with Honjos and 32mm tires


Here we sometimes get out in the wet because it's time to get out - more 
often ride in the sun after a monsoon rain clears out and leaves broken 
puddles.  

Everyone should have at least one fender bike to have the option.  

As far as match goes, white plastic Bluemels have their perfect match.  






This one has the optional Race Blades, using a PDW Origami front splash 
guard on the seat tube to make it near-enough full coverage




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Re: [RBW] Fenders

[Ron Mc]

Bill, those long front French-style fenders (Honjo) buffet badly without 
the additional front rack attachment - to the point you worry about them 
possibly contacting the tire at speed.  
Regards

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 8:57:35 PM UTC-6, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> ...
> Ron, 
>
> Yours looks beautiful.  Those are the kind of pictures that sometimes make 
> think I want to try.  While my setup did have some rattle noise up front, 
> that is something I think I can address.  The noise I’m wondering about in 
> particular is not actually noise the fender is making but the drivetrain 
> noise that the rear fender seems to pick up and amplify.   
> ...
> Bill

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[RBW] Re: Fenders

[Ron Mc]

My Honjo fenders make no noise whatsoever.  Rather than a kit, get the 
undrilled blanks from Jitensha, drill all your own holes, customize all 
your hardware, use fork crown daruma, rubber washser, figure how to attach 
them to your front rack

   


Tire wipers mounted backwards scrape mud from the tires and reject 
everything except chalk from entering your fenders

   

I've had these flipped backwards - they don't do anything except squeal and 
reject the stick that flipped them backwards.  



they work, and they look damn good



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[RBW] Re: Sugino 40x26 wide low double?

[Ron Mc]

looks perfect Philip

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 1:17:32 PM UTC-6, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I was just defining my wide-low double gear setup for my new Fitz 
> All-Road, and the gearing looks pretty similar. 
>
> 40/24 x 11-26 11 speed, with 55mm tires. 
>
> http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS=24,40=11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23,26=2295=90=2.6=KMH=gearInches
>  
>  
> Dropping to a 22t small ring would mimic your low range of gears almost 
> exactly. I'm looking forward to riding this gearing. I think I'll have a 
> little more resolution in the 70s, and an extra 105" gear at the top end. 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, Ca
>
>
> On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 5:50:45 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I've been running 42/25T x9  for years and love it.  Using a custom 
>> cassette, *here's my gear chart 
>> <http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html?R0=25=42=999=12=13=14=15=16=18=21=24=29=999=999=0=5=170=1=0=90=0=80=100=show=yes=Viner%20wide%20double%202x9=1>*
>>
>> Should be able to easily switch your combination into Mike's calculator.  
>>
>> If you try to bookmark yours, change the title and hit return, then hit 
>> save, recall, bookmark at every button you can find on the page - 
>>
>> - before you quit, copy the bookmark link at the bottom of the page and 
>> paste into a new window to make sure it kept your changes.  Then save your 
>> bookmark.  
>>
>> <https://i.imgur.com/7hmzx6c.jpg>
>>
>> Chain guard
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 12:08:56 PM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Joe, that's why I like the SunXCD better than the TA Pro-5-Vis - the flare 
> in the arms gives it a wider footprint, clears possible contact with chain, 
> chainSTAYS, kickstand, FD cage, 
>
sorry 

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

Joe, that's why I like the SunXCD better than the TA Pro-5-Vis - the flare 
in the arms gives it a wider footprint, clears possible contact with chain, 
chainrings, kickstand, FD cage, 


and especially Simplex chainguard ("clearance" with the Pro-5-Vis)

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 12:00:08 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I'm a narrow-Q dissenter. The Riv Silver cranks on my Clem H were so 
> narrow that I kept shifting my feet almost off the sides of the pedals. 
> Narrow Q, not for everyone!

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

ps - found this on VO blog

First, Pro-5-Vis cranks have about the narrowest Q factor, or tread, of any 
crank made. That's a good thing for most of us. In fact some experts claim 
that most riders pedal more efficiently on low Q-factor cranks. But there 
is a small percentage of riders who are more comfortable on with a wider 
crank. You probably know who you are and you should not buy Pro-5-Vis 
cranks. Simply using a longer bottom bracket, as the article suggests, will 
throw off your chain line and, in my experience, may result in balky 
shifting.

The other bit I wanted to correct is that all these cranks did not go to 
Japan, nor were they re-imported from Japan. You can just look in our stock 
room to see that.

Which brings us to the bigger issue of, "Will they be made again?" We were 
told, twice, that the last production run would be it. Forever; period; no 
more; finished. But apparently this past run sold so quickly that that 
decision was reconsidered, according to both Jan and my French contacts, 
and there may indeed be more runs. I'm happy about that since they really 
are great cranks. But I feel like I misled our customers by repeating what 
I'd been told about there being no more ever made. My apologies.

Here is what I wrote previously about these cranks:

<http://bp0.blogger.com/_C1XrRVl3W8k/R2glELiWjBI/D2U/lVfZipnH93Y/s1600-h/TA+pro5_big.jpg>One
 
reason why so many people like the TA crank is that it has about the lowest 
Q-factor (width) of any crank ever made. This is because the crank arm is 
straight and very close to the outer chainring. So front derailleurs that 
have thick outer plates sometimes hit the crankarm, But all Campy models 
and many others work. These cranks will work with modern drivetrains, even 
10-speed. Another reason to use TA Pro Vis 5 cranks is that they can 
replace a triple crank when set up as a double. You can run 28t and 46t 
rings with a 12-27 cassette (for example) and have almost the same range as 
a triple, but with a lot less overlap. Rings 26 to 68 teeth 
<http://www.velo-orange.com/tapro5visch.html> are available. By the way, TA 
sells the cranks and rings separately; there are no stock combinations. So 
why did these wonderful cranks go out of production? The big chainrings, 
above 50t or so, are too flexible for racing. And they are very expensive.


On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 11:13:01 AM UTC-6, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> That's beautiful, Ron. 
> What's the Q on these cranks on your bikes? 
>
> Philip 
> Santa Rosa, CA
>
> On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 5:22:19 AM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

Thanks Phillip, I couldn't tell you the math, but they're about as vertical 
as a crank can get, with the square taper buried far to the outside 
Here's the reason I used SunTour FD1300 - figured how to attach the Simplex 
chainguard using a computer board standoff, and the Simplex hardware with 
one of the French M3s tapped to M5



This *3x5 half-step plus granny 
*
 
is the best drivetrain I ever designed.  


On Tuesday, February 12, 2019 at 11:13:01 AM UTC-6, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> That's beautiful, Ron. 
> What's the Q on these cranks on your bikes? 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

The accolade of Crisp Front Shifting was given on another thread, and I 
didn't want to seem to take exception with that accolade where it was 
given.  
I'm posting my comments on this thread in case anybody wants to reference 
it for following up on their own version of James' 3-speed.  
No front ring setup shifts quicker and crisper than a TA cyclotouriste ring 
stack.  It's because the side-to-side spacing on the rings is so small.  
The narrow ring spacing would be a limitation with a mountain cassette, but 
with the single rear cog, it would be the very slickest way to copy James.  
I'm running two bikes with Sun XCD crank arms and TA ring stack triples.  
Best buy on the crank arms were from Japan suppliers, and best buys (and 
widest choice) on the TA rings were from UK and EU suppliers.  



This shifts with your favorite road double FD, here Shimano 600, also 
running SunTour FD1300 Cyclone on the other drivetrain.  

Each of these drivetrains began with a venerable used TA Pro V crank arm 
set, and eventually got upgraded to the SunXCD.  Most of us have forgotten 
what low-Q really means until we have to deal with those crank arms.  The 
Sun XCD version is an upgrade over the original, because where they give up 
Q is a slight outward flare on the arms, making them a much better match 
with modern wider rear spacings and chainstays, and also giving easy 
clearance for setting up the FD cage.  

The big set-up thing with these is BB width and asymmetry.  The 3x7 just 
above is running 121mm SKF with 4mm offset spacer.  My other 3x5 is on a 
125mm Phil BB with factory 5mm offset, and 2 more mm dialed in the BB cup.  

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[RBW] Re: Sugino 40x26 wide low double?

[Ron Mc]

I've been running 42/25T x9  for years and love it.  Using a custom 
cassette, *here's my gear chart 
*

Should be able to easily switch your combination into Mike's calculator.  

If you try to bookmark yours, change the title and hit return, then hit 
save, recall, bookmark at every button you can find on the page - 

- before you quit, copy the bookmark link at the bottom of the page and 
paste into a new window to make sure it kept your changes.  Then save your 
bookmark.  



Chain guard


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Re: [RBW] Re: Mark's Rack on skinny tired bike

[Ron Mc]

I've been using an M-18 with the 42 cm struts (cut to length) for 10 years 
now.  The struts cross the outside of your fork, and the rack/fender bosses 
on your dropouts are recessed inward.  Spacers are needed between the 
dropout boss and the bottom end of the strut to stand the struts off the 
fork.  Otherwise, tightening the M5s squeeze the struts into your fork and 
bow them out.  The Bridgestone rack spacers that Rivendell sells are 
perfect for this 
spot:  
https://www.rivbike.com/collections/racks/products/rack-hardware-thick-washer-spacer-each
 

 
Just the right thickness to separate the strut and fork where they cross.  

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[RBW] Re: anybody using thermarest cot tent?

[Ron Mc]

Hi Mike, sprung for both - with separate coupon buys and my award gift 
certificate, cost me $130 total - quite a gift.  
It was gorgeous early this week, 72, balmy, light mist and got out on the 
greenway



But this weekend is 30 degrees and thunderstorms - a combination I've never 
seen, and a good day for a cot-tent smoke test -

there's also a rainfly



 Yeah, the cat thinks it's her new travel carrier.  

I'm 6'3", 210 lbs, 46L- the 30" x 77" cot fits me exactly right, and the 
26" wide would probably not do.  
Nice the tent snugly fits the 30"-wide cot, making tie-downs superfluous - 
same tent is sold for the 26" x 77" cot. 
You can also pick it up and carry it in this configuration. 
Cot takes awhile to put up and take down. Tent zings. 



Here are both in their carriers, but neither is packed efficiently - I can 
squeeze more than 2" out of the tent/fly bag.  

The 18" length is fixed by the poles.  

With efficient packing, and  if light enough to leave behind two of the cot 
support poles, you could get all of this into a half-frame bag.  

Each item would fit in a half frame bag with room to spare, and both would 
fit in a full frame bag with room to pack more.  

Regards


On Tuesday, February 5, 2019 at 1:16:23 AM UTC-6, Mike Godwin wrote:
>
> That is pretty cool. The tent probably rolls up to size of large burrito. 
> Will need to look at it on my computer
>
> Mike
>

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[RBW] Re: Lever effect of stem length et al on steering and handling

[Ron Mc]

Think all of us like multiple hand position options on bars, part of it is 
comfort, part of it is control, part of it is wind.  
As a rule, longer stem and wider bars give you the most control, and you 
actually use your arms to steer.  In the narrow positions, you steer mostly 
with lean and less (if at all) with your arms.  
As far as weight on bars, should reserve that for braking, and use core 
muscle support for your weight.  

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[RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Recommendation for Roadini Build

[Ron Mc]

The thing about the CX70 is the cage shape is exactly matched to the 48T 
large ring.  

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

thanks James, I completely understand - I think you did great - I could 
ride that bike here, including the 14% grade to get home

On Friday, February 8, 2019 at 12:22:01 PM UTC-6, James Warren wrote:
>
>
> Thanks, Ron. When I first set it up in ‘05, I tried a standard tensioner, 
> and it couldn’t do enough for the chainring differences I wanted. I really 
> demand that granny/grandpa gear. So at that point, I went with derailleur 
> and was lucky that the local bike shop had one that could clamp onto the 
> dropout with no hanger.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 8, 2019, at 7:49 AM, Ron Mc > 
> wrote:
>
> I like it. 
> Guess you're using RD just for chain wrap.  Curious whether there's a 
> chain tensioner with enough chain wrap to cover the ring range. 
>
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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

On his new Merc with half-steps, this is how my friend Tad climbed a 
wheelchair switchback ramp to our stop

<https://i.imgur.com/jd2crY1.jpg>  <https://i.imgur.com/z3IYRsC.jpg>

and how I climbed it on my silver International


On Friday, February 8, 2019 at 9:55:00 AM UTC-6, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> ps - on 3 of my 4 bikes, excepting the indexed thumbie compact double x 9, 
> I always shift most often in front - using rear as a final adjustment.  
> Two of those are half-step plus granny, but same on my Campy road bike - I 
> usually keep it in one of two rear cogs and shift front for start/stop, or 
> even the steep nob-type hills we have here.  
> I pick on my friends who always shift rear and don't even know how their 
> FDs function as being lazy.  
>

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

ps - on 3 of my 4 bikes, excepting the indexed thumbie compact double x 9, 
I always shift most often in front - using rear as a final adjustment.  
Two of those are half-step plus granny, but same on my Campy road bike - I 
usually keep it in one of two rear cogs and shift front for start/stop, or 
even the steep nob-type hills we have here.  
I pick on my friends who always shift rear and don't even know how their 
FDs function as being lazy.  

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Re: [RBW] Wide range 3-speed QB refurbished

[Ron Mc]

I like it. 
Guess you're using RD just for chain wrap.  Curious whether there's a chain 
tensioner with enough chain wrap to cover the ring range. 

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[RBW] Re: anybody using thermarest cot tent?

[Ron Mc]

Hi Mike, in this case, the tent attaches to the cot - 



- it's really a bug screen with separate rain fly


On Monday, February 4, 2019 at 1:21:25 AM UTC-6, Mike Godwin wrote:
>
> DRW, Ron
> once you get the hang of it, setup and take down is fairly quick. Much 
> like using a tent after the first couple times. If you plan on using it 
> with a tent the tent cannot be too small or have odd-shaped door. You are 
> putting a rigid structure through a door that normally a flexible structue 
> (human) passes through. I can fit it into a rectangular  pack tent but PIA. 
>
> Mike SLO CA
>

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[RBW] Re: anybody using thermarest cot tent?

[Ron Mc]

Checking inventories, it appears the mesh cot, which is offered in XL - 30" 
wide - is either being discontinued, or the batch is all but sold out, so I 
ordered the cot (from Moosejaw with the one I wanted in stock).  
The cot they're replacing it with uses a thermal-reflective fabric instead 
of the mesh - the feet are semi-circles instead of full circles, so new cot 
is overall lighter.  
However, I wanted the 4" wider width - I'm 6'3", 210 lbs, and big shoulders 
to go with my long limbs.  Also in s. Texas, I want the cooling of the mesh 
rather than the thermal-reflective.  
Will keep you posted.  

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[RBW] Re: Roadini handlebar ideas

[Ron Mc]

my favorite drop bar of all time is still Cinelli 64 - 

 

- still the dream bar, and just as comfortable on the drops as the hoods

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[RBW] Re: Oddities that make the ride home extra-adventurous

[Ron Mc]

Not exactly sheared, but high cycle fatigue - the smooth part over half - 
the rough part is ratcheting where the crack was tearing a little bit every 
bump



>

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[RBW] Re: anybody using thermarest cot tent?

[Ron Mc]

here you go Matt - https://www.thermarest.com/cot-tent
thanks for your experience

On Thursday, January 31, 2019 at 7:41:18 AM UTC-6, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I think I have that cot, or one nearly identical from Thermarest, and used 
> it on Ragbrai a few years ago. I liked it because it was cool, relatively 
> comfortable, and kept me off the ground when it was wet.  The cot is 
> extremely light too. 
>
> From what I remember, there were 2 lengths available at the time and I 
> bought the longer one. 
>
> I did not know about a tent to go with it. I might have to look into that.
>
> Best regards,
> Matt B
> Oswego, IL
>
>

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[RBW] anybody using thermarest cot tent?

[Ron Mc]

A success story - I wrote a review on kayak shoes last fall and they picked 
me at Moosejaw for a $250 gift certificate.  Couldn't be more boned up on 
kayak gear, and they don't sell my kind of bike tires. 
It's not exactly burning a hole in my pocket, but from their inventory, 
have been looking at the thermarest XL mesh cot and the matching cot tent 
that attaches to it.  The tent can also be used separate from the cot.  
With good coupon buying, I could end up with both for $150, which is quite 
a gift.  
Each packs to 18x6", useful enough for kayak touring or general coast 
camping, and I was thinking it would be a good shelter to bike pack, as 
well.  The combination has a lot of positive reviews from bike tours - 
especially the comfort of landing in the cot after a long ride.  They're 
also versatile in that you can pack a bit lighter with fewer of the cot 
parts, use the bug shelter when you need it, or just the tent fly.  
Any experience with this gear out there?  
Thanks

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[RBW] Re: Teach me about sealant in tubes?

[Ron Mc]

Coming in late, in Barlow and Stampede Pass ELs, I use Challenge latex 
cross tubes.  Up front, living with latex tubes requires pumping every day 
when you ride, and once/wk when you don't.  
Or if you store the bike, store it on a stand that keeps the wheels off the 
ground.  

I don't add sealant until I get that first leak, but carry a 2 oz bottle of 
Stan's, valve core tool and spare valve core.  
First thing to check on a slow leak, btw, is whether your valve core is 
tight or not.  .  
First flat, I'll add one oz of the Stans, save the second ounce, and use it 
later as needed.  
That usually takes care of me, but have gone through the exercise of a 
second 2 oz bottle later, though I normally don't get a lot of flats.  
I definitely get fewer flats than my friend who rides city tires - I think 
thinner, softer tires will throw away a lot of sharp stuff that will plant 
in harder, thicker tires.  
I've also been getting a lot of miles out of my tires.  The last one I 
replaced, a 27mm Vittoria, was flopping casing fibers when I replaced it.  

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Re: [RBW] In praise of the Canadian Wrestling Beanie

[Ron Mc]

I can recommend the Minus 33 beanie.  
folds long over your ears, fits under a helmet
https://www.amazon.com/Minus33-Merino-Wool-Beanie-Charcoal/dp/B00B2A4RBK/ref=sr_1_7

On Friday, November 23, 2018 at 12:32:24 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Sold out. I could use one or two. What did they cost when the were in 
> stock?
>
> And: Can anyone recommend alternative toques and sources? Need not be 
> merino, must be wool and be able to fit a 24" head comfortably.
>
> Anyone have something like this to sell?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: new tires for my Homer

[Ron Mc]

Simply, Compass ELs are the best vulcanized bike tires ever made.  

On Monday, November 19, 2018 at 8:36:39 AM UTC-6, Alan H wrote:
>
> Looking for some input from folks that may have experience with these 
> different tires. I'd like to put wider rubber on my A Homer Hilsen. It's a 
> MUSA frame (possibly Toyo, I'm not sure how to tell the difference). 
> Regardless, I'm running the S!lver branded Tektro sidepulls and the wheels 
> are Rich-built with Synergy rims. I currently have Soma New Express tires 
> (650bx38mm) and would like something a bit wider to better set the bike up 
> for fire roads and differentiate it a bit from my Roadini, which is now my 
> primary road bike. The candidates are,
>
> Soma Cazadero (42mm)
> WTB Byway or Horizon (47mm)
> Compass tires, either the Babyshoe Pass (42mm) or the Switchback Hill 
> (48mm)
>
> My inclination is towards the Byway, provided it'll fit and WTB gets it 
> back in stock. IIRC Justin mentioned he put them on his Saluki, so I think 
> that means they should work (sans fenders of course). 
>
> I'd love to hear opinions and experience from folks. If there are other 
> similar tires you think I should consider please share that too!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alan
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Not MUSA but Very Riv

[Ron Mc]

thanks - the bike is really quite fast - it's definitely my most aggressive 
riding position.  We have kind of a Sunday morning 7-mi sprint from uptown 
to downtown, and a friend pacing along with me asked if I had a motor in 
it.  

On Sunday, November 18, 2018 at 11:52:57 AM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Wow! Pretty. Ron!
> Your bikes always look "fast" in the pics.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Not MUSA but Very Riv

[Ron Mc]

you're welcome, Clayton. . 
When a buddy gave me GB Map of England bars, had to use a Nitto UL-2 clamp 
stem to attach them.  The GB Hiduminium and Raleigh Maes bar cockpit with 
Weinmann levers came off as a unit.  


<https://imgur.com/859r0g0.jpg> <https://imgur.com/bXNIDT2.jpg>   
<https://imgur.com/nDwGeHu.jpg>
But I made up for it with beautiful GB Arret levers


On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 8:54:53 PM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:
>
> Wow! 
>
> It’s so pretty, I’d run it, even if it was a horrible fit...and care less 
> about its weight.朗 Thanks for the pictures and education.
>
> I guy I worked for in the nineties at Qranc, came up with the word IRIDIUM 
> (I think that’s the word?) for Oakley. He said it was pure marketing BS, 
> not a technology. The lenses were just lexan plastic. I think I remember he 
> said the lens cost around 25 cents to make. 
>
> I wonder what alloys are in Hiduminum. 樂 
>
> Thanks again Ron.
>
> Clayton DDD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS>
>
> On Friday, November 16, 2018, 12:12 PM, Ron Mc  > wrote:
>
> Actually, Hiduminium and Duralumin go to prewar aircraft alloy trade 
> names.  
> People sure want Hardy flyreels made from these alloys.  
>
> <https://imgur.com/uAaVJ3G.jpg> <https://imgur.com/ylHEFxf.jpg> 
> <https://imgur.com/L4qmt0T.jpg>
>
> The GB Hiduminium stem is a damned good-looking stem.  
>
>
> On Friday, November 16, 2018 at 10:57:51 AM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:
>
> ‘Hiduminum’ stem alloy!I’ve been looking for Hiduminum for awhile.   
>
>
> Marketing never changes. 
>
> Thanks for this post. Cool catalog. 
>
> ClaytonDDD
>
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[RBW] Re: Not MUSA but Very Riv

[Ron Mc]

Actually, Hiduminium and Duralumin go to prewar aircraft alloy trade 
names.  
People sure want Hardy flyreels made from these alloys.  

  


The GB Hiduminium stem is a damned good-looking stem.  


On Friday, November 16, 2018 at 10:57:51 AM UTC-6, Clayton wrote:
>
> ‘Hiduminum’ stem alloy!I’ve been looking for Hiduminum for awhile.   
>
> Marketing never changes. 
>
> Thanks for this post. Cool catalog. 
>
> ClaytonDDD

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Ron Mc]

about 2" (40-50mm) shorter reach than what you normally ride with drop 
bars.  

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 1:59:49 AM UTC-6, Joey Robinson wrote:
>
> Is there a good rule of thumb for how to change your stem when switching 
> to Albastache handlebars?
>
> Right now I run a 100 mm stem with 44 cm Nitto Noodles. Any suggestions 
> for which length would be the best based off this info?
>
> On Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 12:24:49 PM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>>
>> I put Long distance on my moustache bars and love them - 
>>
>> <https://imgur.com/5uXqCmt.jpg>
>> - I think most people use too great reach on their stem, don't angle 
>> their break levers downward correctly, and try to grab the bend of the bars 
>> rather than resting their palms on the straight sweep and only hooking 
>> their thumbs in the bend.  
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 6, 2018 at 2:46:06 PM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>>>
>>> I agree. I tried the original Moustache and hand pain would start in 
>>> first 1/2 mile of rides. Pain pain pain. No matter where on the bar I'd 
>>> grip, pressure point on the exact same spot, no variation, at least for me. 
>>> Gave it a month. Never tried any 'stache iteration since. But for some 
>>> people they are fantastic I hear. So I guess it is like saddles, very 
>>> personal. They look very cool though and I had the best braking finger 
>>> reach with road levers on them. So there are pluses.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 6, 2018 at 12:22:46 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The Moustache Handlebar - Grant told me he says the whole name 'cause 
>>>> it's a riff on handlebar moustache - on the Bstone XO-1 is what drew me 
>>>> into bikes around 1992, I thought it was the coolest thing! But alas I've 
>>>> tried every variation of them since and my hands/wrists just can't do it. 
>>>> Oh well!
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] No love for the Albastache?

[Ron Mc]

you're funny, Joe

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 12:47:19 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I suspect it was a variation on the old doctor joke.
>  
> "Doctor, it hurts when I ride like this."
>
> 'Don't ride like that!'
>

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[RBW] Not MUSA but Very Riv

[Ron Mc]

http://www.peterbrueggeman.com/cr/catalogues/aids_1955.pdf  
1955 Holdsworth Aid to Cycling  
Great togs and shoes

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[RBW] Re: Things I wish Rivendell still sold..

[Ron Mc]

my cat does that, too, but I watch the merino too closely for her

On Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 2:01:30 PM UTC-6, ian m wrote:
>
> The MUSA purple and gray striped long sleeve wool shirt. My favorite base 
> layer and it's full of holes from my cats laying on top of it when I'm not 
> wearing it and making biscuits. Would buy three
>

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Ron Mc]

more likely, everyone's habits are different, and then there's use of core 
muscles - the only time we should be leaning on our hands is when we're 
braking.  
If you grab the bars in the wrong place, they're not going to work.  If you 
set them up in the wrong place to begin with, it's hopeless.  


On Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 10:10:57 PM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I set mine up scrupulously according to RBW and Abele instructions to no 
> avail. 
>
> Everyone’s hands are different.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Things I wish Rivendell still sold..

[Ron Mc]

I like the cut on older MUSA, shorts, knickers, and especially the long 
pants.  I have 3 pair and live in them all winter - now they've made them 
for shorter people.  

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[RBW] Re: No love for the Albastache?

[Ron Mc]

I put Long distance on my moustache bars and love them - 


- I think most people use too great reach on their stem, don't angle their 
break levers downward correctly, and try to grab the bend of the bars 
rather than resting their palms on the straight sweep and only hooking 
their thumbs in the bend.  

On Tuesday, November 6, 2018 at 2:46:06 PM UTC-6, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I agree. I tried the original Moustache and hand pain would start in first 
> 1/2 mile of rides. Pain pain pain. No matter where on the bar I'd grip, 
> pressure point on the exact same spot, no variation, at least for me. Gave 
> it a month. Never tried any 'stache iteration since. But for some people 
> they are fantastic I hear. So I guess it is like saddles, very personal. 
> They look very cool though and I had the best braking finger reach with 
> road levers on them. So there are pluses.
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 6, 2018 at 12:22:46 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The Moustache Handlebar - Grant told me he says the whole name 'cause 
>> it's a riff on handlebar moustache - on the Bstone XO-1 is what drew me 
>> into bikes around 1992, I thought it was the coolest thing! But alas I've 
>> tried every variation of them since and my hands/wrists just can't do it. 
>> Oh well!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Winter wool baselayer rec needed

[Ron Mc]

Minus33 is my favorite in heavier-weight merino.  I like the way they 
finish sleeves, collars and bottom compared to others.  Check out this 
400-wt
https://www.minus33.com/wool/kobuk-expedition-wool-14-zip/723/product/

On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 6:46:18 PM UTC-6, EasyRider wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a half or quarter zip merino pullover and could use some 
> recs, especially with regard to weight/warmth.
>
> For the past several winters daily commutes (15 miles round trip, most 
> days the temp is with 10 degrees of freezing) I've been wearing a very 
> light poly-merino blend pullovers, a cheapo poly half zip pullover over 
> that (a general all purpose "jogging" and whatnot), and a vest or 
> windbreaker over that. That's about right warmth for these parts. But all 
> those poly baselayers means a lot of laundry because it picks up a stink, 
> and quick. I'd like to get one high quality merino baselayer and wash once 
> a week. But, I'm uncertain what the right weight to get is.
>
> I THINK I want something "midweight" but I'm not sure what that means in 
> terms of spec or labeling to look for. I want something I could wear alone 
> under a fleece vest most days, and maybe add a packable windbreaker over 
> top, or a softshell jacket on very cold days. The other requirement is a 
> zip up collar, not a crew neck.
>
> I checked Riv for options and didn't see any, so what would you recommend?
>
> Pete
> Arlington, VA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: No more cheap bikes from China

[Ron Mc]

you got it backwards - Republican issues became White House action during 
the Clinton Administration - balancing the budget - something democrats 
would never have considered before.  
Clinton did one thing right - he used the polls get his mandate and make 
his choices during president - honestly, he didn't know what else to do - 
he really didn't have an agenda other than get elected.  
So he did what the American people wanted.  

On Monday, October 29, 2018 at 12:37:15 PM UTC-5, iamkeith wrote:
>
> This is interesting.  Hope it doesn't veer too far into the off-limits 
> political realm...  but it is not exactly OT even if it does:
>
> I was just looking for some old, first generation geometry figures, 
> thinking about the current "epoch" and low-trail discussions in other 
> threads.  In Reader #01 (Thanks again Reid, for the archive!), on page 
> three, there was this blurb:
>
> *NEWS UPDATE: NO MORE CHEAP BIKES FROM CHINA. *
> *This is going to be old news by the time you read this, but it is brand 
> new today, February 5, and it is absolutely HUGE news in the bicycle 
> industry, so pay attention: The Clinton administration is imposing IOO 
> percent tariffs on Chinese things because China copies a lot of U.S. 
> products and sells them cheap in China. Oh, there’s probably more to it 
> than that, but that seems to be the main point. The thing is, most of the 
> big and well-known US. bike companies have left Japan and are leaving 
> Taiwan (where the $4.00 per hour labor is proving too costly). In China, 
> the workers live in dorms and make $0.39 per hour. This is the biggest news 
> to hit the bike industry in many years, I think. All these companies have 
> been looking for cheap labor, thought they found it, and now this. *
>
>
> Fascinating in light of current world politics.  In addition to 
> illustrating the cyclical and ephemeral nature of things, it is reassuring 
> to me to know that I have not gone entirely mad or mis-remembered.  I've 
> been wracking my head lately, trying to figure out exactly when and how 
> some of the current administration's "signature" issues were co-opted and 
> suddenly became Republican causes.  I do keenly remember a sense of 
> personal disappointment later in that administration though, when the hope 
> of using economic incentives to push for a Tibetan independence eventually 
> gave way to an acceptance of a more global economy future. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Ron Mc]

btw, it's hat-city around here, living in the S. Texas sun.  On a bike, I'm 
happy with my Bell Metro and enough visor to peer into the sun.  But then 
just never spend a full day on a bike around here except in the winter - 
always ride in the morning.  
But do spend long days in kayaks in the coast flats, and wading hill 
country limestone creeks.  Stocked up on Tilley, Akubra, Milano, Panamas, 
even Art Fawcett VS Custom, and a 40-y-o karma canvas brim - the side used 
to snap Aussie style, making it great for riding in power boats.  
Brims make so much since for the sun, weather, just look down a little to 
bust brush.  
And agree on an organized trip. one hat is never enough - always bring at 
least two.  

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Re: [RBW] Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Ron Mc]

my buddy's wife rides with a Da Brim on her helmet and likes it.  
http://www.dabrim.com/html/products/cycling/classic.htm

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Re: [RBW] Recommendation for small tire pump

[Ron Mc]

Patrick nailed it - Road Drive for high pressure (both lengths work), Alloy 
Drive Medium for high volume.  

On Thursday, August 16, 2018 at 5:50:20 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> How wide a tire? For higher pressures, I heartily recommend the Lezyne 
> Road Drive. For fat ones, the Alloy Drive. I think both -- certainly the 
> Road Drive -- come in at least 2 lengths.
>
>
>

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