Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread William
OK, well that was a red-herring.  You are right that they taper in a 
little, but the thing I'm talking about tapers in A LOT and only on the 
left side.  This 7400 rear hub kind of shows it:  

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dura-Ace-Rear-Tubular-7400-Hub-Nisi-Countache-Rim-8-9-Speed-Excellent-Condition-/120914827269?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessorieshash=item1c2715d805#ht_500wt_1361
 

Especially in the second photo.  Yours look like the right part on both 
sides.  The knurls do look kind of flattened out, but not in a way where 
I'd say Yes, that wheel will slip, because of those knurls.  

Resume your debugging process.  Anything else from my would be a wild 
guess.  If you asked for my wild guess, I'd try those 'slow-release' 
levers.  The ones you need an allen wrench to tighten.  On chrome rear 
dropouts in the past, that's been helpful for me.  I think they generate 
substantially more clampforce.   

On Monday, May 14, 2012 5:31:03 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Your wish is my command:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/

 Alligators and Pacman... arrrgh, flashback to the 80's!!!

 On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 2:36 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Both are bevelled?  That's just weird or I'm losing it.  Can you 
 photograph it for me?  

 And the alligator mouth wants to eat the bigger number, so you are 
 looking for a 30yo mechanic, not a 30yo mechanic.  :)


 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 11:19:57 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 William, thanks! VERY interesting... kind of a cool feature on Shimao's 
 part. They are indeed old DA hubs from the 90's. 7700 series to be exact. I 
 converted 
 them to 135mm http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406321019/four 
 years ago. I just checked and 
 *both *locknuts are beveled on the rear, but neither of the front ones 
 are. 

 So, so, so, so... I'm gonna' see if I can find a non-beveled one I may 
 have lying around or swap one out from elsewhere and give that a try! 

 I'll keep looking for the elusive 30 y.o. mechanic. Wish me luck with 
 that one!

 GREAT advice in this continuing saga!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:28 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this 
 problem.  It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not 
 be 
 right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.

 The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a 
 beveled locknut was to aid in wedging your 126mm frameset open to take the 
 thing.  That beveled locknut was on the left side, though, and we're 
 talking about dura ace cassette hubs from the early 1990s.  If you swapped 
 parts around when you converted this dura ace rear hub to 135mm, then you 
 actually might have solved your own problem.  Specifically if you moved 
 the 
 left side locknut on an early 90's dura ace hub to the driveside, then 
 that 
 very well might be the cause of your slippage.  Have that specifically 
 looked at, preferably by a mechanic older than 30.  

 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 8:57:55 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a 
 Phil/Bontrager 
 heavy duty 
 wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
  have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought of. 
 Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

 Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode 
 the same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I 
 purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other 
 wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

 Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading 
 to wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, 
 maybe 
 that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges 
 are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only 
 50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the 
 problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal 
 drop 
 outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

 Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is 
 probably three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and 
 problems with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need 
 to recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is 
 now.

 So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to 
 work. Things are getting curioser and curioser...

 Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to 
 figure it out!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till 
 jeremy.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning 
 along, cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear 
 it 
 may just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread Joe Broach
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:43 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  If you asked for my wild guess, I'd try those 'slow-release' levers.  The
 ones you need an allen wrench to tighten.  On chrome rear dropouts in the
 past, that's been helpful for me.  I think they generate substantially more
 clampforce.

That's opposite my experience, but I'd be interested to hear the
slow-release skewers you had success with. I'm not able to get near
the clamping force out of those 5mm bolts that I get from an internal
cam QR.

I think it almost has to be the axle at this point. Many have run QRs
with horizontal drops without issue. I did with a 22/28 low gear for
thousands of slip-free miles, and that using a Deore LX skewer with
aluminum faces.

Frustrating, to be sure, but I wouldn't be distracted by things other
than that axle.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread William
On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't stop slipping 
with Mavic or Dura Ace internal cam skewers.  Everything on the bike was 
brand new.  I replaced them with Control Tech Ti skewers (which I was 
willing to do also trying to get a lugged steel bike under 18lb).  I never 
had a single slip with those.  That was 1992.   

On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 11:52:46 AM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:

 On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:43 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 

   If you asked for my wild guess, I'd try those 'slow-release' levers. 
  The 
  ones you need an allen wrench to tighten.  On chrome rear dropouts in 
 the 
  past, that's been helpful for me.  I think they generate substantially 
 more 
  clampforce. 

 That's opposite my experience, but I'd be interested to hear the 
 slow-release skewers you had success with. I'm not able to get near 
 the clamping force out of those 5mm bolts that I get from an internal 
 cam QR. 

 I think it almost has to be the axle at this point. Many have run QRs 
 with horizontal drops without issue. I did with a 22/28 low gear for 
 thousands of slip-free miles, and that using a Deore LX skewer with 
 aluminum faces. 

 Frustrating, to be sure, but I wouldn't be distracted by things other 
 than that axle. 

 Best, 
 joe broach 
 portland, or 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread Joe Broach
On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:13 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't stop slipping
 with Mavic or Dura Ace internal cam skewers.  Everything on the bike was
 brand new.  I replaced them with Control Tech Ti skewers (which I was
 willing to do also trying to get a lugged steel bike under 18lb).  I never
 had a single slip with those.  That was 1992.

That makes some sense, titanium being harder (I think) than steel. The
ones I've used have had aluminum or steel faces. I'll file this trick
away for future use!

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Joe's experience with allen skewers is mine, tho' mine all have
aluminum contact surfaces. I once snapped the steel skewer on one
trying to clamp a fixed wheel in chromed, horizontal dropouts.

On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:52 PM, Joe Broach joebro...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 10:43 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  If you asked for my wild guess, I'd try those 'slow-release' levers.  The
 ones you need an allen wrench to tighten.  On chrome rear dropouts in the
 past, that's been helpful for me.  I think they generate substantially more
 clampforce.

 That's opposite my experience, but I'd be interested to hear the
 slow-release skewers you had success with. I'm not able to get near
 the clamping force out of those 5mm bolts that I get from an internal
 cam QR.

 I think it almost has to be the axle at this point. Many have run QRs
 with horizontal drops without issue. I did with a 22/28 low gear for
 thousands of slip-free miles, and that using a Deore LX skewer with
 aluminum faces.

 Frustrating, to be sure, but I wouldn't be distracted by things other
 than that axle.

 Best,
 joe broach
 portland, or

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-- 

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.

Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-15 Thread William
The control tech skewers have a ti skewer part and aluminum ends.  I never 
had to tighten too hard.  

On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:18:26 PM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:

 On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 12:13 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  On my Davidson road bike, with chromed dropouts, I couldn't stop 
 slipping 
  with Mavic or Dura Ace internal cam skewers.  Everything on the bike was 
  brand new.  I replaced them with Control Tech Ti skewers (which I was 
  willing to do also trying to get a lugged steel bike under 18lb).  I 
 never 
  had a single slip with those.  That was 1992. 

 That makes some sense, titanium being harder (I think) than steel. The 
 ones I've used have had aluminum or steel faces. I'll file this trick 
 away for future use! 

 Best, 
 joe broach 
 portland, or 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-14 Thread cyclotourist
William, thanks! VERY interesting... kind of a cool feature on Shimao's
part. They are indeed old DA hubs from the 90's. 7700 series to be
exact. I converted
them to 135mm http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406321019/ four
years ago. I just checked and *both *locknuts are beveled on the rear, but
neither of the front ones are.

So, so, so, so... I'm gonna' see if I can find a non-beveled one I may have
lying around or swap one out from elsewhere and give that a try!

I'll keep looking for the elusive 30 y.o. mechanic. Wish me luck with that
one!

GREAT advice in this continuing saga!


On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:28 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this
 problem.  It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not be
 right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.

 The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a
 beveled locknut was to aid in wedging your 126mm frameset open to take the
 thing.  That beveled locknut was on the left side, though, and we're
 talking about dura ace cassette hubs from the early 1990s.  If you swapped
 parts around when you converted this dura ace rear hub to 135mm, then you
 actually might have solved your own problem.  Specifically if you moved the
 left side locknut on an early 90's dura ace hub to the driveside, then that
 very well might be the cause of your slippage.  Have that specifically
 looked at, preferably by a mechanic older than 30.

 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 8:57:55 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a 
 Phil/Bontrager
 heavy duty 
 wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
  have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought of.
 Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

 Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode the
 same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I
 purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other
 wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

 Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading to
 wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, maybe
 that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges
 are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only
 50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the
 problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal drop
 outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

 Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is probably
 three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and problems
 with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need to
 recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is now.

 So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to
 work. Things are getting curioser and curioser...

 Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to figure
 it out!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning along,
 cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may
 just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and
 steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My success
 with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear
 drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low
 stump-pulling gears.

 Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It
 might be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a
 15mm box wrench in your saddle bag.


 On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's
 wrong w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt 
 robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-)
 But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S 
 mikeybi...@rocketmail.com**wro**te:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the
 big fat
   tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs,
 check, no more
   problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
 
   Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-14 Thread William
Both are bevelled?  That's just weird or I'm losing it.  Can you photograph 
it for me?  

And the alligator mouth wants to eat the bigger number, so you are looking 
for a 30yo mechanic, not a 30yo mechanic.  :)

On Sunday, May 13, 2012 11:19:57 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 William, thanks! VERY interesting... kind of a cool feature on Shimao's 
 part. They are indeed old DA hubs from the 90's. 7700 series to be exact. I 
 converted 
 them to 135mm http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406321019/four 
 years ago. I just checked and 
 *both *locknuts are beveled on the rear, but neither of the front ones 
 are. 

 So, so, so, so... I'm gonna' see if I can find a non-beveled one I may 
 have lying around or swap one out from elsewhere and give that a try! 

 I'll keep looking for the elusive 30 y.o. mechanic. Wish me luck with 
 that one!

 GREAT advice in this continuing saga!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:28 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this 
 problem.  It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not be 
 right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.

 The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a 
 beveled locknut was to aid in wedging your 126mm frameset open to take the 
 thing.  That beveled locknut was on the left side, though, and we're 
 talking about dura ace cassette hubs from the early 1990s.  If you swapped 
 parts around when you converted this dura ace rear hub to 135mm, then you 
 actually might have solved your own problem.  Specifically if you moved the 
 left side locknut on an early 90's dura ace hub to the driveside, then that 
 very well might be the cause of your slippage.  Have that specifically 
 looked at, preferably by a mechanic older than 30.  

 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 8:57:55 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a 
 Phil/Bontrager 
 heavy duty 
 wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
  have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought of. 
 Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

 Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode the 
 same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I 
 purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other 
 wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

 Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading to 
 wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, maybe 
 that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges 
 are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only 
 50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the 
 problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal drop 
 outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

 Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is 
 probably three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and 
 problems with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need 
 to recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is 
 now.

 So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to 
 work. Things are getting curioser and curioser...

 Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to figure 
 it out!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning along, 
 cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may 
 just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and 
 steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My success 
 with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear 
 drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low 
 stump-pulling gears.  

 Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It 
 might be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a 
 15mm box wrench in your saddle bag.


 On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's 
 wrong w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel 
 as 
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats 
 in 
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com
  wrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) 
 But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S 
 mikeybi...@rocketmail.com**wro**te:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-14 Thread cyclotourist
Your wish is my command:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/

Alligators and Pacman... arrrgh, flashback to the 80's!!!

On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 2:36 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Both are bevelled?  That's just weird or I'm losing it.  Can you
 photograph it for me?

 And the alligator mouth wants to eat the bigger number, so you are looking
 for a 30yo mechanic, not a 30yo mechanic.  :)


 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 11:19:57 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 William, thanks! VERY interesting... kind of a cool feature on Shimao's
 part. They are indeed old DA hubs from the 90's. 7700 series to be exact. I 
 converted
 them to 135mm http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/2406321019/four 
 years ago. I just checked and
 *both *locknuts are beveled on the rear, but neither of the front ones
 are.

 So, so, so, so... I'm gonna' see if I can find a non-beveled one I may
 have lying around or swap one out from elsewhere and give that a try!

 I'll keep looking for the elusive 30 y.o. mechanic. Wish me luck with
 that one!

 GREAT advice in this continuing saga!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:28 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this
 problem.  It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not be
 right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.

 The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a
 beveled locknut was to aid in wedging your 126mm frameset open to take the
 thing.  That beveled locknut was on the left side, though, and we're
 talking about dura ace cassette hubs from the early 1990s.  If you swapped
 parts around when you converted this dura ace rear hub to 135mm, then you
 actually might have solved your own problem.  Specifically if you moved the
 left side locknut on an early 90's dura ace hub to the driveside, then that
 very well might be the cause of your slippage.  Have that specifically
 looked at, preferably by a mechanic older than 30.

 On Sunday, May 13, 2012 8:57:55 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a 
 Phil/Bontrager
 heavy duty 
 wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
  have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought of.
 Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

 Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode the
 same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I
 purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other
 wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

 Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading
 to wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, maybe
 that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges
 are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only
 50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the
 problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal drop
 outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

 Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is
 probably three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and
 problems with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need
 to recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is
 now.

 So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to
 work. Things are getting curioser and curioser...

 Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to
 figure it out!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning
 along, cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it
 may just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears,
 and steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My
 success with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear
 drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low
 stump-pulling gears.

 Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It
 might be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a
 15mm box wrench in your saddle bag.


 On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.comwrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's
 wrong w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel 
 as
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats 
 in
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt 
 robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-)
 But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-13 Thread Eric Daume
People have used them on Crosschecks with horizontal dropouts. Here's an
example:

http://forums.mtbr.com/8117216-post182.html

Here's a whole discussion of a similar issue on the Salsa Casseroll:

http://forums.mtbr.com/salsa/dissapointed-my-casserole-401914.html

The Salsa designer recommended a tugnut as a worst case scenario.

Eric



On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 6:19 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
 horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
 these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.

 I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
 slipping problem: I've had no problems with even chromed horizontals
 and decent, internal cam, all-steel QRs.

 Are you *sure* that the axle is not coyly peeping out beyond the
 outward-facing dropout surface? I've had this happen, and it only
 requires a mm or so of excess length to cause the problem.

 I can't see alignment being a real issue -- squeeze that QR down and
 it should hold the wheel in place.

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
  Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:
 
  http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut
 
  I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed
 them
  on my Crosscheck
 
  Eric Daume
  Dublin, OH
 
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
  put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so
 that's
  not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
  Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
  alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
  Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!
 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-13 Thread Jeremy Till
Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning along, 
cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may 
just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and 
steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My success 
with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear 
drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low 
stump-pulling gears.  

Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It might 
be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a 15mm box 
wrench in your saddle bag.

On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's wrong 
 w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as 
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in 
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the big 
 fat
   tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check, 
 no more
   problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
 
   Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
 
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 America
  that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America 
 I
  love.”

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 **
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 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I 
 love.”



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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-13 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Sun, 2012-05-13 at 10:57 -0700, Jeremy Till wrote:
 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning
 along, cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I
 fear it may just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts,
 QR's, low gears, and steep California climbs that just might be too
 much for QR's.  My success with QR's and horizontals is limited to
 road bikes with fixed gear drivetrains or compact double derailleur
 setups, which lack super-low stump-pulling gears. 

My Kogswell P/R has a 26x30 granny gear and, of course, horizontal
dropouts.  The wheel has never slipped under load and I've been on some
plenty steep climbs, including in the Black Hills of South Dakota around
Mount Rushmore.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-13 Thread cyclotourist
Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a
Phil/Bontrager
heavy duty 
wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought
of.
Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode the
same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I
purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other
wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading to
wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, maybe
that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges
are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only
50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the
problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal drop
outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is probably
three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and problems
with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need to
recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is now.

So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to work.
Things are getting curioser and curioser...

Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to figure it
out!


On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.com wrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning along,
 cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may
 just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and
 steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My success
 with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear
 drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low
 stump-pulling gears.

 Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It
 might be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a
 15mm box wrench in your saddle bag.


 On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's wrong
 w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
 **wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the
 big fat
   tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check,
 no more
   problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
 
   Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
 
--
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  **
  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
 America
  that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the
 America I
  love.”

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 To view this 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-13 Thread William
There is no way whatsoever for dish to have anything to do with this 
problem.  It does no harm to have dish checked if you think it might not be 
right, but dish never caused a hub to slip in the dropouts.

The reason the first generation of 130mm spaced dura ace hubs had a beveled 
locknut was to aid in wedging your 126mm frameset open to take the thing.  
That beveled locknut was on the left side, though, and we're talking about 
dura ace cassette hubs from the early 1990s.  If you swapped parts around 
when you converted this dura ace rear hub to 135mm, then you actually might 
have solved your own problem.  Specifically if you moved the left side 
locknut on an early 90's dura ace hub to the driveside, then that very well 
might be the cause of your slippage.  Have that specifically looked at, 
preferably by a mechanic older than 30.  

On Sunday, May 13, 2012 8:57:55 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Jeremy et al, I finally got around to changing the wheelset out to a 
 Phil/Bontrager 
 heavy duty 
 wheelsethttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7193475208/in/photostreamI
  have. Don't use it very much, so it wasn't the first thing I thought of. 
 Thanks for the suggestions to try that approach!

 Anyway, Phil w/ the same Mavic skewers led to zero slippage. I rode the 
 same route (although a bit slower due to a headache) as last week. I 
 purposely left the skewer a bit looser than I was using it on the other 
 wheelset (Dura Ace converted to 135 spacing). Not a problem at all!

 Soo, some combination of the DA wheelset with the bike is leading to 
 wheel slippage. I'm gong to get the dish checked out as suggested, maybe 
 that is it? I noticed the DA clamping surface isn't fully flat. The edges 
 are beveled so there's not as much contact (why?). There's maybe only 
 50-75% the contact surface that the Phil hubs have. Possibly part of the 
 problem. Buut, I have the same hubs on my other Riv w/ horizontal drop 
 outs (DA skewers) and those never slip.

 Side note: This problem has been progressive. The DA wheelset is probably 
 three or four years old. No problems with my old wheelset, and problems 
 with the DA one seems to have come on slowly. An occasional need to 
 recenter here or there, but not several times during a ride like it is now.

 So I'm currently back in love with my bike, but want all my wheels to 
 work. Things are getting curioser and curioser...

 Thanks again for the info and input on this, I'm really trying to figure 
 it out!


 On Sun, May 13, 2012 at 10:57 AM, Jeremy Till jeremy.t...@gmail.comwrote:

 Is it clear when during your rides that it slips?  Just spinning along, 
 cranking out of the saddle, or spinning up a steep climb? I fear it may 
 just be that your combination of horizontal dropouts, QR's, low gears, and 
 steep California climbs that just might be too much for QR's.  My success 
 with QR's and horizontals is limited to road bikes with fixed gear 
 drivetrains or compact double derailleur setups, which lack super-low 
 stump-pulling gears.  

 Have you considered converting the hub to a bolt-on (solid) axle?  It 
 might be the cheapest and simplest solution here.  Just have to carry a 
 15mm box wrench in your saddle bag.


 On Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:28:28 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's 
 wrong w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as 
 well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in 
 anticipation!

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt 
 robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
 **wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the 
 big fat
   tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check, 
 no more
   problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
 
   Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
 
--
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 Groups
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  Redlands, CA
 
  **
  “I believe in an America 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread cyclotourist
OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so that's
not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!

On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

 Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
 mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...


 On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
 cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
 enough.
 Read all about it here:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

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 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
 love.”




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Redlands, CA

**
“I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread Eric Daume
Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:

http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut

I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed
them on my Crosscheck

Eric Daume
Dublin, OH

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

 OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
 put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so that's
 not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
 Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
 alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
 Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!

 On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.comwrote:

 Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
 mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...


 On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
 cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
 enough.
 Read all about it here:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
 America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the
 America I love.”




 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.

I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
slipping problem: I've had no problems with even chromed horizontals
and decent, internal cam, all-steel QRs.

Are you *sure* that the axle is not coyly peeping out beyond the
outward-facing dropout surface? I've had this happen, and it only
requires a mm or so of excess length to cause the problem.

I can't see alignment being a real issue -- squeeze that QR down and
it should hold the wheel in place.

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
 Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:

 http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut

 I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed them
 on my Crosscheck

 Eric Daume
 Dublin, OH


 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
 put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so that's
 not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
 Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
 alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
 Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!

 On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
 mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...


 On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
 cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
 enough.
 Read all about it here:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
 America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the
 America I love.”




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 Cheers,
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 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
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For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread cyclotourist
It has horizontal, not rear-facing track ends. I don't know if those tugs
will work, but maybe. It says in bold that they're for rear-facing drop
outs...

The name is David, or at least that is what I tell people on the internet.
You can see my signature line if you scroll down (included a marvelous
quote from Mr. Willard Romney). But surely you know the name of the guy
that's been on here and the ibob list with you for the past 10 years and
has bought/sold/traded/given away things from/to/with you on several
occasions over that decade :-)

The axle is definitely about 1-2mm behind the drop out. That's the first
thing I check, hoping that was the cause and source for a simple fix. No
such luck.



On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 3:19 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
 horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
 these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.

 I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
 slipping problem: I've had no problems with even chromed horizontals
 and decent, internal cam, all-steel QRs.

 Are you *sure* that the axle is not coyly peeping out beyond the
 outward-facing dropout surface? I've had this happen, and it only
 requires a mm or so of excess length to cause the problem.

 I can't see alignment being a real issue -- squeeze that QR down and
 it should hold the wheel in place.

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
  Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:
 
  http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut
 
  I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed
 them
  on my Crosscheck
 
  Eric Daume
  Dublin, OH
 
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share. I
  put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so
 that's
  not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
  Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
  alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
  Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!
 
  On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
  mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...
 
 
  On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
  What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
  cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
  enough.
  Read all about it here:
  http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
 
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  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
  America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the
  America I love.”
 
 
 
 
  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA
 
  **
  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
 America
  that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America
 I
  love.”
 
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

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 For more 

Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread EricP
Hmm.  With it still acting up, am going to join the chorus of the dropouts 
not being aligned.  But even then, can't see why it would slip so bad.  I 
was able to ride a Surly Cross Check with the XT quick release without 
slipping.  Both as a multi geared and single speed.  
 
Only other thing I could think of - the axle could be slightly bent, 
preventing the hub end and quick release face from being parallel.   So the 
ends can't clamp tight, although the dropout may be aligned.  Really, 
highly unlikely (like nearly impossible).  But it's the only other thing 
that comes to mind.
 
Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN
 

On Saturday, May 12, 2012 7:01:51 PM UTC-5, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 It has horizontal, not rear-facing track ends. I don't know if those tugs 
 will work, but maybe. It says in bold that they're for rear-facing drop 
 outs...

 The name is David, or at least that is what I tell people on the internet. 
 You can see my signature line if you scroll down (included a marvelous 
 quote from Mr. Willard Romney). But surely you know the name of the guy 
 that's been on here and the ibob list with you for the past 10 years and 
 has bought/sold/traded/given away things from/to/with you on several 
 occasions over that decade :-)

 The axle is definitely about 1-2mm behind the drop out. That's the first 
 thing I check, hoping that was the cause and source for a simple fix. No 
 such luck.





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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread PATRICK MOORE
David!!

My brother, Peter, who has a huge amount of experience wrenching on
all sorts of bikes old and new, says that in his experience, with
slick chrome dropouts, older Campy up through C-Record, or Suntour QRs
with pronounced serrations have worked for him every time; and he's
far bigger than I at 6'2 and 200 lb+. He opines that slightly
mis-aligned dropouts would not prevent a good QR from clamping tightly
enough to prevent slippage.

Or perhaps you just generate insane amounts of torque?

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 6:01 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 It has horizontal, not rear-facing track ends. I don't know if those tugs
 will work, but maybe. It says in bold that they're for rear-facing drop
 outs...

 The name is David, or at least that is what I tell people on the internet.
 You can see my signature line if you scroll down (included a marvelous quote
 from Mr. Willard Romney). But surely you know the name of the guy that's
 been on here and the ibob list with you for the past 10 years and has
 bought/sold/traded/given away things from/to/with you on several occasions
 over that decade :-)

 The axle is definitely about 1-2mm behind the drop out. That's the first
 thing I check, hoping that was the cause and source for a simple fix. No
 such luck.



 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 3:19 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
 horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
 these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.

 I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
 slipping problem: I've had no problems with even chromed horizontals
 and decent, internal cam, all-steel QRs.

 Are you *sure* that the axle is not coyly peeping out beyond the
 outward-facing dropout surface? I've had this happen, and it only
 requires a mm or so of excess length to cause the problem.

 I can't see alignment being a real issue -- squeeze that QR down and
 it should hold the wheel in place.

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
  Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:
 
  http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut
 
  I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never needed
  them
  on my Crosscheck
 
  Eric Daume
  Dublin, OH
 
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to share.
  I
  put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so
  that's
  not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT skewers.
  Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
  alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
  Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!
 
  On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
  mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...
 
 
  On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
  cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
  enough.
  Read all about it here:
  http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
 
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  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA
 
  **
  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
  America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s
  the
  America I love.”
 
 
 
 
  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA
 
  **
  “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
  America
  that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America
  I
  love.”
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread cyclotourist
Hey, that's me! :-)

And what you mention is basically what many people have said, so I just
can't figure it out. I mean, it really should just dig in and clamp. I'm
cranking it down so hard on the QR I can barely undo it with my hands and
need to use a screwdriver as a lever. Trust me, it's tight. But then still
slips. I'm gonna' drop by my LBS, but I don't have much hope. They probably
will tell me I have to buy a new Cervelo or something.

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 6:38 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 David!!

 My brother, Peter, who has a huge amount of experience wrenching on
 all sorts of bikes old and new, says that in his experience, with
 slick chrome dropouts, older Campy up through C-Record, or Suntour QRs
 with pronounced serrations have worked for him every time; and he's
 far bigger than I at 6'2 and 200 lb+. He opines that slightly
 mis-aligned dropouts would not prevent a good QR from clamping tightly
 enough to prevent slippage.

 Or perhaps you just generate insane amounts of torque?

 On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 6:01 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  It has horizontal, not rear-facing track ends. I don't know if those tugs
  will work, but maybe. It says in bold that they're for rear-facing drop
  outs...
 
  The name is David, or at least that is what I tell people on the
 internet.
  You can see my signature line if you scroll down (included a marvelous
 quote
  from Mr. Willard Romney). But surely you know the name of the guy that's
  been on here and the ibob list with you for the past 10 years and has
  bought/sold/traded/given away things from/to/with you on several
 occasions
  over that decade :-)
 
  The axle is definitely about 1-2mm behind the drop out. That's the first
  thing I check, hoping that was the cause and source for a simple fix. No
  such luck.
 
 
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 3:19 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
  I don't know what sort of bike Cyclotourist has, but if by
  horizontal dropouts he means the usual forward-facing road dropouts,
  these won't work -- they are designed for track ends.
 
  I am very puzzled by your (Cyclotourist -- what's your real name?)
  slipping problem: I've had no problems with even chromed horizontals
  and decent, internal cam, all-steel QRs.
 
  Are you *sure* that the axle is not coyly peeping out beyond the
  outward-facing dropout surface? I've had this happen, and it only
  requires a mm or so of excess length to cause the problem.
 
  I can't see alignment being a real issue -- squeeze that QR down and
  it should hold the wheel in place.
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com
 wrote:
   Worst case, you can always use a chaintug. Something like this:
  
   http://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut
  
   I always end up using these with track ends, although I've never
 needed
   them
   on my Crosscheck
  
   Eric Daume
   Dublin, OH
  
  
   On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 4:33 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 
   wrote:
  
   OK, I finally got around to riding today... and no good news to
 share.
   I
   put on the heavy-duty old-skool Mavic QR that I have. All steel so
   that's
   not a concern. Shifted exactly the same as the previous two XT
 skewers.
   Bummed to say the least. Next step is take it to my LBS for a dropout
   alignment and wheel dish checks (both suggested here).
   Wish me luck, and feel free to keep brainstorming this!
  
   On Mon, May 7, 2012 at 4:54 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
 
   wrote:
  
   Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
   mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...
  
  
   On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com
   wrote:
  
   What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The
 former
   cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
   enough.
   Read all about it here:
   http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html
  
   --
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   --
   Cheers,
   David
   Redlands, CA
  
   **
   “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
   America that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s
   the
   America I love.”
  
  
  
  
   --
   Cheers,
   David
   Redlands, CA
  
   **
   “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an
   America
   that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the
 America
   I
   love.”
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread Michael_S
I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the big fat 
tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check, no more 
problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.

Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)








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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread cyclotourist
That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
aren't Atlantii blue?

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:

 I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the big fat
 tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check, no more
 problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.

 Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)






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Redlands, CA

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that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-12 Thread cyclotourist
That's actually my plan for tomorrow. If it holds, then something's wrong
w/ the wheel. If it slips, the bike (or possibly the second wheel as
well!). I'll report back as I know you all are on the edge of your seats in
anticipation!

On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Have you tried a different wheel?

 On May 12, 8:37 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  That's an option. I've wanted Nano-clearance for a wile now... :-) But
  aren't Atlantii blue?
 
  On Sat, May 12, 2012 at 8:25 PM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   I think a new Atlantis would solve your dilemma think of  the big
 fat
   tires  you could run .. even Nanos.  Vertical drop outs, check, no
 more
   problems, check.  Plus you could get out of your blue bike rut.
 
   Little devil on your shoulder ( mike)
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
I bet the steel QR solves the problem... aluminum QR nuts are suspect for 
slippage.In addition to going to steel, maybe take it in to a shop and 
have them align the dropouts or borrow a Park FFG-2 alignment tool-  if 
they are skewed a bit it certainly isn't helping the situation.Anyway I 
hope you figure it out.


Matt



On Sunday, May 6, 2012 10:18:53 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, definitely Al. I put on the new end (still Al) and same 
 problemhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150628661/in/photostream/.
  
 Went back and dug out the Mavic all-steel 
 QRshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150710351/in/photostreamI 
 used to have on there and have replaced them, but not put any miles on it 
 yet. I took those off a while ago as I never liked the cam action on them 
 compared to Shimano. They never seemed to lock down like Shimanos do, so 
 thought I was moving in the right direction. Perhaps not. I'm not sure my 
 troubles started with the change as it was several years ago, but I don't 
 remember a problem w/ the old Mavics.

 Thanks again for the input on this! I hope to soon report back with 
 positive news for everyone!

 On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:17 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am pretty sure it's the aluminum contact surfaces -- modern skewers
 are meant, it seems, for vertical dropouts only. I remember tightening
 an allen slow release on one of my fixies until the (steel) skewer
 snapped -- couldn't get the aluminum ends to grip tightly enough.

 Come to think of it, I've got a 5-6 lb bag of old, old-school,
 all-steel skewers and if you (the original complainant) want one, just
 LMK. I think I've got a 130 or so and possibly even a 135 or two. None
 are very pretty (except the NOS Zeus front which ain't leaving).

 Note: will trade skewer/s for single old Campy Record dustcap or
 pair/sof nice, shiny metal ones. (I have one Campy already -- thanks,
 Eric.)

 On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
  My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem.  Went from aluminum to steel 
 skews, knurled.  This fixed the problem for us.
 
  Kelly
 
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 -
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 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-07 Thread Toshi Takeuchi
Same problem here. Steel QR solved it.

Toshi

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-07 Thread cyclotourist
Enclosed Shimano type. I always thought that too, but someone else
mentioned Salsa working great, and the Flip offs are exposed...

On Sat, May 5, 2012 at 10:14 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:

 What kind of QR do you use - exposed cam or enclosed cam? The former
 cannot be used with horizontal drop outs because it can't get tight
 enough.
 Read all about it here:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
From the photo I saw on Amazon, the current XT QRs are internal cam,
so that eliminates one possible cause.

You might also look to see if the hub axle is a bit too long,
preventing the QR from clamping down fully on the dropout plate --
tho' if you are distorting the bearings this isn't your problem.

I would guess that the contact surfaces or at least one of them on
these current XT QRs is aluminum (saves weight, you go much faster)
and does not grip as it needs to.

Last option: get another, old-fashion QR like the early '90s Shimanos
-- all steel. I've used old ones on fixed gears for years with no
slippage.


 On Saturday, May 5, 2012 10:00:45 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have horizontal drop outs, and my rear wheel consistently slips forward
 on the drive side. I'm sure it's because of the massive wattage I'm putting
 out. Any way to keep it from moving? It's getting pretty frustrating. I've
 cranked down on the Shimano XT QR so tight that I just about need a lever to
 open it up. I'm even messing up the bearing a little from it being so tight.
 To no avail.

 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
 love.”

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread Eric Norris
Patrick makes some good suggestions. It sounds like something is preventing the 
drive side from closing enough to grip the dropout. As Patrick suggested, make 
sure the axle isn't extending beyond the dropout, which would make it 
impossible to clamp all the way. This can be fixed by loosening all the cups 
and recentering, or by adding a thin washer on the drive side.

You might also try taking the spiral spring out of the drive side. It could be 
interfering with the clamping. It's not needed except to make it a bit easier 
to put the wheel back in.

Finally, make sure both dropouts are the same thickness. If the non-drive-side 
dropout is thicker, it could be keeping the drive side from clamping down 
enough. A washer on the drive side would fix that.

--Eric N

On May 6, 2012, at 7:59 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 From the photo I saw on Amazon, the current XT QRs are internal cam,
 so that eliminates one possible cause.
 
 You might also look to see if the hub axle is a bit too long,
 preventing the QR from clamping down fully on the dropout plate --
 tho' if you are distorting the bearings this isn't your problem.
 
 I would guess that the contact surfaces or at least one of them on
 these current XT QRs is aluminum (saves weight, you go much faster)
 and does not grip as it needs to.
 
 Last option: get another, old-fashion QR like the early '90s Shimanos
 -- all steel. I've used old ones on fixed gears for years with no
 slippage.
 
 
 On Saturday, May 5, 2012 10:00:45 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have horizontal drop outs, and my rear wheel consistently slips forward
 on the drive side. I'm sure it's because of the massive wattage I'm putting
 out. Any way to keep it from moving? It's getting pretty frustrating. I've
 cranked down on the Shimano XT QR so tight that I just about need a lever to
 open it up. I'm even messing up the bearing a little from it being so tight.
 To no avail.
 
 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA
 
 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America
 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I
 love.”
 
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 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -
 
 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 
 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread cyclotourist
THANKS for brainstorming this with me. It's frustrating to the point where
I'm considering a new bike, so would much rather get it fixed!!!

Here's what I found/did:

   - Dropouts appear to be same width ( ~7.2mm) and straight eyeball
   guesstimate. This could be re-visited
   - Surface of dropouts is rough and should offer plenty of friction.
   - Axle does not stick out too
farhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7002722508/in/photostream.
   That was an excellent recommendation!
   - XT QRs are quality cam, but do have aluminum faces. I checked it out
   and the knurled surface is pretty
squishedhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7148797737/in/photostream/.
   Possibly on account of my over-tightening it. I swapped it out for a better
   one.
   - In the process, I ditched the curly spring. That maaay be the
   culprit. It wouldn't seat all the way in the QR end like it should and a
   few windings stuck out past the edge. I couldn't push them down with finger
   strength. Fingers crossed.
   - Rim was re-dished when I converted the wheel from 130 to 135mm
   spacing. I'm sure it's ok, but if the end-cap change doesn't work, I'll
   revisit.
   - Gearing... it's very low. 22X32  But it also shifts in the dropouts if
   I'm in the middle ring/low 34X32. Again, probably the off the chart wattage
   I'm putting out.

I have another set of QR skewers I can try if need by. Same XT model w/
aluminum faces. I have an older Mavic set I could swap out for if that
isn't doing it. As I mentioned, it's pretty frustrating. I hope it's
something I'm doing wrong, or a problem with the wheel. If it's the problem
w/ the horizontal dropouts, I don't want to go to the time/expense/hassle
of getting them replaced with verticals. Nor do I particularly want to get
a new bike, although yes Mike, an Atlantis would be what I swapped it out
for :-)

Thanks to all for the thoughtful recommendations! Ride report to follow.


On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 8:55 AM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 See if the wheel is properly dished. I had a wheel that would always slip
 in the right dropout, because I was cocking it in the dropouts to center it
 between the chainstays. After I centered it with a spoke wrench, it stopped
 doing that.
 It's unlikely that's the problem, but it was for me.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
 www.biketinker.com


 On Saturday, May 5, 2012 10:00:45 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have horizontal drop outs, and my rear wheel consistently slips forward
 on the drive side. I'm sure it's because of the massive wattage I'm putting
 out. Any way to keep it from moving? It's getting pretty frustrating. I've
 cranked down on the Shimano XT QR so tight that I just about need a lever
 to open it up. I'm even messing up the bearing a little from it being so
 tight. To no avail.

 --



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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread Kelly
My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem.  Went from aluminum to steel skews, 
knurled.  This fixed the problem for us.

Kelly

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I am pretty sure it's the aluminum contact surfaces -- modern skewers
are meant, it seems, for vertical dropouts only. I remember tightening
an allen slow release on one of my fixies until the (steel) skewer
snapped -- couldn't get the aluminum ends to grip tightly enough.

Come to think of it, I've got a 5-6 lb bag of old, old-school,
all-steel skewers and if you (the original complainant) want one, just
LMK. I think I've got a 130 or so and possibly even a 135 or two. None
are very pretty (except the NOS Zeus front which ain't leaving).

Note: will trade skewer/s for single old Campy Record dustcap or
pair/sof nice, shiny metal ones. (I have one Campy already -- thanks,
Eric.)

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem.  Went from aluminum to steel 
 skews, knurled.  This fixed the problem for us.

 Kelly

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-06 Thread cyclotourist
Yes, definitely Al. I put on the new end (still Al) and same
problemhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150628661/in/photostream/.
Went back and dug out the Mavic all-steel
QRshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150710351/in/photostreamI
used to have on there and have replaced them, but not put any miles on
it
yet. I took those off a while ago as I never liked the cam action on them
compared to Shimano. They never seemed to lock down like Shimanos do, so
thought I was moving in the right direction. Perhaps not. I'm not sure my
troubles started with the change as it was several years ago, but I don't
remember a problem w/ the old Mavics.

Thanks again for the input on this! I hope to soon report back with
positive news for everyone!

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:17 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am pretty sure it's the aluminum contact surfaces -- modern skewers
 are meant, it seems, for vertical dropouts only. I remember tightening
 an allen slow release on one of my fixies until the (steel) skewer
 snapped -- couldn't get the aluminum ends to grip tightly enough.

 Come to think of it, I've got a 5-6 lb bag of old, old-school,
 all-steel skewers and if you (the original complainant) want one, just
 LMK. I think I've got a 130 or so and possibly even a 135 or two. None
 are very pretty (except the NOS Zeus front which ain't leaving).

 Note: will trade skewer/s for single old Campy Record dustcap or
 pair/sof nice, shiny metal ones. (I have one Campy already -- thanks,
 Eric.)

 On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
  My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem.  Went from aluminum to steel
 skews, knurled.  This fixed the problem for us.
 
  Kelly
 
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