date:20150323

I've been accumulating these 3 sets of tires for some time for upcoming 
builds, but those build plans have changed dramatically.

All prices INCLUDE shipping CONUS:


   - Grand Bois Cerf 700x28C, in Extra Leger form. Pair, NEW, unopened. 
   Full disclaimer: I purchased these from I's Bicycle in Japan during their 
   sale, and I'm offering them for what I paid with shipping! I's Bike says 
   they are 10% heavier than the original Extra Leger but still way lighter 
   than the stock 700x28 Cerf. $90.
   

   - Soma Cazadero 650x42B, black sidewall. Pair, NEW, mounted but not 
   ridden. $110.


   - Vredestein Forteeza Duo Comp Retro, 700x25C, brown sidewall. Pair, 
   used with about 500 miles. Look 90% new.  $50.


Anton

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[RBW] Ride from Portland to Sauvie Island

A few more photos from a very scenic ride to Sauvie Island:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk9sHv3C https://flic.kr/s/aHsk9sHv3C

—Eric N

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Re: [RBW] FS: 3 sets of tires: Grand Bois EL 700Cx28, Soma Cazadero 650Bx42, Vredestein Duo Comp Retro 700Cx25

Anton:

Sent you a PM regarding the Cerfs.

—Eric


 On Mar 23, 2015, at 8:14 AM, Anton Tutter atut...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I've been accumulating these 3 sets of tires for some time for upcoming 
 builds, but those build plans have changed dramatically.
 
 All prices INCLUDE shipping CONUS:
 
 Grand Bois Cerf 700x28C, in Extra Leger form. Pair, NEW, unopened. Full 
 disclaimer: I purchased these from I's Bicycle in Japan during their sale, 
 and I'm offering them for what I paid with shipping! I's Bike says they are 
 10% heavier than the original Extra Leger but still way lighter than the 
 stock 700x28 Cerf. $90.
 Soma Cazadero 650x42B, black sidewall. Pair, NEW, mounted but not ridden. 
 $110.
 Vredestein Forteeza Duo Comp Retro, 700x25C, brown sidewall. Pair, used with 
 about 500 miles. Look 90% new.  $50.
 
 Anton
 
 
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[RBW] carradice panniers and rack SOLD

2015-03-23 Thread 'b hamon' via RBW Owners Bunch

Carradice panniers and rack are SOLD.
Thanks!
Beth
http://www.beth-hamon-music.com

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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread Andrew Marchant-Shapiro

My experience as well.  The Shimano wiring system, assembled with a modicum 
of care, is essentially bombproof.  I had a few problems with it when I 
first started using a dynohub 10 years ago, but quickly learned what to do, 
and since that wheel has been on multiple bikes with multiple connectors 
over the decade (and a different wheel is now using one of the same 
connectors) I have to say that I can find no fault with the system.

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 4:02 AM, Peter Adler divis...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote: 
  The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the 
 SV 
  hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires 
  folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. 
 Ideally, 
  there would be something more secure 

 Same as millions of Shimano dynamo hubs.  I've only had to adjust the 
 wires on mine once in roughly 10,000 miles of riding it.  The SON 
 spade connectors are more secure, yes, but they're also more difficult 
 to remove and pretty much impossible if you're wearing long fingered 
 gloves, which makes getting a flat in the cold a real bummer. 

 -Jim 


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[RBW] Re: Mounting bolt coming loose on twin-leg kickstand

2015-03-23 Thread Ron Mc

None of my bikes have kickstand plates and need the clamps - I gorilla-glue 
closed-cell foam to the bottom plate, and use the longer bolt and plastic 
yokes on top.  
I come back and tighten it a little bit every day until the plastic stops 
creeping, and it's done for good until I want to take it off.  

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:13:24 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I came to much the same conclusion regarding my kickstand (single leg). 
 The bike is simply safer on the terrain I ride laying it down, especially 
 considering when it is loaded. For those times when a kickstand would work, 
 there is too much jouncing that loosens it and it's just not worth the 
 bother for me (but then neither is a front derailer. Grin.). 

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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[RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple

2015-03-23 Thread Montclair BobbyB

I always use friction shifting on my front derailleur (and don't understand 
why one would want indexed FDs, mainly because you lose the ability to 
trim)... On my mountain bikes, I run SRAM XO or X9 Grip Shifts (indexed 
rear, friction front) and swear by them (but realize that's a tough sell to 
most people)... I also love the old Suntour XC rear derailleurs, with super 
heavy springs.  I seldom drop chains on even the roughest technical terrain.

Patrick, if you're dropping your chain on rough terrain, could it be a 
combination of having too much chain, required for running a 1x setup, 
and/or perhaps not having a strong enough spring on the rear derailleur? 
 Whether you hate your FD, running a triple (or double) does enable you to 
run a shorter chain if you stick to the rule of keeping a straight 
chainline, not crossing your chain from large cog to large chainring or 
vice versa, 

Just one opinion.  BB 


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:39:41 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I hear you, Ron. The FD really adds a stunning amount of sound that I 
 could never get rid of. It's also a common sentament among those who shift 
 to a 1x drive train to be delighted to not have the FD to mess with. This 
 way, I have my rock guard (my 46t ring), my riding gear, and my granny, but 
 without a FD.

 At least for the riding I do as me (and is there any other way? Grin.) I 
 spend all my time in my middle ring (36t previously, 38t now, with 12-34t 
 cogs) with the sole exception of singletrack or high altitude steep dirt 
 roads, in which case I'm not shifting the front rings back and forth, but 
 staying in the 24t.

 I'm not saying this set up is for anyone but me, but on my initial ride I 
 was amazed by how snug and responsive and silent the drivetrain was. If 
 it's any consolation, when I asked my wife and daughters how they would 
 like to shift their front chain rings when I build up their Clementines, it 
 was unanimous. FD's all round!

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

Same here.  Shimano designed their connector for no need for wiring tools 
(crimper, solder iron, etc), and for this application they got it totally 
right.  The only catch is that you do need to follow their directions to 
the letter. If you do, the connector will be reliable for years.

The Schmidt hubs use standard 4mm spade terminals, which are pretty 
reliable, but not if used frequently. If you need to remove your wheel 
frequently, the terminals will lose their contact strength and also tend to 
break from strain. That type of terminal, while universal, is not designed 
for repeated connecting/disconnecting.

Anton



On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 10:34:34 AM UTC-4, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:

 My experience as well.  The Shimano wiring system, assembled with a 
 modicum of care, is essentially bombproof.  I had a few problems with it 
 when I first started using a dynohub 10 years ago, but quickly learned what 
 to do, and since that wheel has been on multiple bikes with multiple 
 connectors over the decade (and a different wheel is now using one of the 
 same connectors) I have to say that I can find no fault with the system.

 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 4:02 AM, Peter Adler divis...@gmail.com wrote: 
  The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the 
 SV 
  hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare 
 wires 
  folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. 
 Ideally, 
  there would be something more secure 

 Same as millions of Shimano dynamo hubs.  I've only had to adjust the 
 wires on mine once in roughly 10,000 miles of riding it.  The SON 
 spade connectors are more secure, yes, but they're also more difficult 
 to remove and pretty much impossible if you're wearing long fingered 
 gloves, which makes getting a flat in the cold a real bummer. 

 -Jim 



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[RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple

2015-03-23 Thread Deacon Patrick

The chain is shorter with this set up now. I can actually use the full 
range of gears in both, though I minimize the use of cross chaining in the 
24t as it's in the inside position of the triple. The 38t is in the middle, 
so I use it's full range.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 8:50:15 AM UTC-6, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I always use friction shifting on my front derailleur (and don't 
 understand why one would want indexed FDs, mainly because you lose the 
 ability to trim)... On my mountain bikes, I run SRAM XO or X9 Grip Shifts 
 (indexed rear, friction front) and swear by them (but realize that's a 
 tough sell to most people)... I also love the old Suntour XC rear 
 derailleurs, with super heavy springs.  I seldom drop chains on even the 
 roughest technical terrain.

 Patrick, if you're dropping your chain on rough terrain, could it be a 
 combination of having too much chain, required for running a 1x setup, 
 and/or perhaps not having a strong enough spring on the rear derailleur? 
  Whether you hate your FD, running a triple (or double) does enable you to 
 run a shorter chain if you stick to the rule of keeping a straight 
 chainline, not crossing your chain from large cog to large chainring or 
 vice versa, 

 Just one opinion.  BB 


 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:39:41 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I hear you, Ron. The FD really adds a stunning amount of sound that I 
 could never get rid of. It's also a common sentament among those who shift 
 to a 1x drive train to be delighted to not have the FD to mess with. This 
 way, I have my rock guard (my 46t ring), my riding gear, and my granny, but 
 without a FD.

 At least for the riding I do as me (and is there any other way? Grin.) I 
 spend all my time in my middle ring (36t previously, 38t now, with 12-34t 
 cogs) with the sole exception of singletrack or high altitude steep dirt 
 roads, in which case I'm not shifting the front rings back and forth, but 
 staying in the 24t.

 I'm not saying this set up is for anyone but me, but on my initial ride I 
 was amazed by how snug and responsive and silent the drivetrain was. If 
 it's any consolation, when I asked my wife and daughters how they would 
 like to shift their front chain rings when I build up their Clementines, it 
 was unanimous. FD's all round!

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread Jim Bronson

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 4:02 AM, Peter Adler divisi@gmail.com wrote:
 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. Ideally,
 there would be something more secure

Same as millions of Shimano dynamo hubs.  I've only had to adjust the
wires on mine once in roughly 10,000 miles of riding it.  The SON
spade connectors are more secure, yes, but they're also more difficult
to remove and pretty much impossible if you're wearing long fingered
gloves, which makes getting a flat in the cold a real bummer.

-Jim

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[RBW] Re: Mounting bolt coming loose on twin-leg kickstand

2015-03-23 Thread Deacon Patrick

I came to much the same conclusion regarding my kickstand (single leg). The 
bike is simply safer on the terrain I ride laying it down, especially 
considering when it is loaded. For those times when a kickstand would work, 
there is too much jouncing that loosens it and it's just not worth the 
bother for me (but then neither is a front derailer. Grin.). 

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Mounting bolt coming loose on twin-leg kickstand

So to report my results, Bill's idea of using a setscrew and loctite 
definitely improved matters but the stand still comes loose after a while. 
Seems like my bike is too big/heavy for a centre-mount kickstand, which is 
a shame. I like the convenience of having the kickstand to hold the bike 
steady while I lock up, but it's not worth the annoyance of the leg(s) 
rubbing the tyre. Has anyone tried the single-leg type that mounts at/near 
the rear dropout on the non-drive side? I used to see them a lot on touring 
bikes in Germany but never tried one...

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Re: [RBW] S3X hub for one of my Rivs; particular question about QR-type shifting setup.

I also had a problem with a Sturmey 8-speed hub. My theory is that the S3X 
internals are much simpler, in particular no pawls, and that this makes it more 
durable. Moving the pawls to a spin-on freewheel makes it much easier to fix 
problems associated with the freewheeling mechanism (or, if you use a White 
Industries, you can pretty much forget about having any problems at all).

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

 On Mar 23, 2015, at 8:10 AM, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 
 I haven't ridden the S3X, and have read some bad reviews about durability, 
 but proof is in the use, and it sounds like Eric has had success with his.  I 
 have trashed the internals of a (new generation) SunRace Sturmey-Archer 
 8-speed IGH under only moderate off-road use... SunRace Customer Service was 
 fabulous and immediately shipped new internals.  But it left me a bit leery 
 about the durability of the internals.
 
 I may have also mentioned I recently built up a 2-speed fixie wheel for my 
 friend John, who wanted to set up his Quickbeam with a vintage 2-speed 
 cable-shifted Bendix hub (that he had modified/welded from a coaster brake 
 version to a true 2-speed fixie).  The hub is heavy, but it is heavy duty for 
 sure (which to me is worth the weight penalty).  I test rode it briefly and 
 the play was very minor in both gears... it felt like a true fixed gear in 
 either gear (and it felt secure).  John has been riding it for several weeks, 
 and so far he loves it.
 
 On my S1, I have a 2x2 freewheel / flip-flop setup that I love, and while I 
 can't shift it on the fly, it takes only a few moments (during a stop) to 
 change gears. Best ride feel (IMO) with only minor inconvenience.
 
 I am finally lacing up my Sturmey 2-speed freewheel kickback hub (that has 
 been in the box for 2+ years), which hopefully will hold up better than the 
 8-speed.  Good luck, Patrick.
 
 BB
 
 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 11:34:37 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:
 I'm with Eric. I simply found that for my riding, I preferred the direct 
 drive feel of a fixed wheel more than the convenience of onboard shifting. 
 
 As far as an easy on and off, I used my seat stay rack boss and a longer bolt 
 to mount the thumb shifter. Pictures in my flickr and blog (search S3X), but 
 I don't trust the phone to save the msg while I find them. 
 
 Philip 
 www.biketinker.com http://www.biketinker.com/
 
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[RBW] Re: need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread Kieran J

Same here as the rest. I've been running a Shimano DN-71 whatever hub for a 
couple of years of daily riding in all conditions and it has never let me 
down. I find the connector very easy to detach for countless tire changes, 
as long as you install the wires properly at the outset. The SP appears 
(from photos) to have a similar plug arrangement.

I also have one of the cheapo Sanyo hubs, whose design makes it much more 
fiddly to remove than the Shimano.

KJ


On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:04:27 PM UTC-4, joe kelly wrote:

 i got the Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub 36h 
 http://www.rivbike.com/SP-dyno-hub-p/hu-18202.htm and BM Eyc Dyno 
 Headlight http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ltd-16.htm from rivendell 
 for christmas. i had the hub built into a wheel here in columbus ohio. the 
 light/wheel combo worked perfectly in my living room and on a short test 
 ride, but now a few days later has suddenly stopped working. this is my 
 first dyno hub/light. anyone have a similar experience or suggestions?
 thanks for your time
 joe kelly
 columbus ohio


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Re: [RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-23 Thread cyclotourist

Thanks for the really positive feedback, guys!

It was a whirlwind of a weekend, and I'm still buzzing from the endorphins
and adrenaline!!! EVERYTHING fell into place, and we had an amazing
turnout, and everything I've heard  read points to people having a great
day! In addition to what you've seen on flickr, there are some great pics
linked to the IEBA's FB page that are worth checking out:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Inland-Empire-Biking-Alliance/156207984434074
The BW ones from Kevin F are just perfect!

A good chunk of the riders were Rivendell people, and they were perfectly
suited for the day. I'm biased, but I think they may have had the best time
out there! It's intentionally a mix of riders and bikes to stir the pot and
and let the different tribes do some cross-pollination!

I had input on the 50k route, but Mark F figured out a way to get a LOT of
dirt patches connected together for the 100k portion. The 100k is probably
50-60% dirt, the 50k was significantly lower, maybe 30-40%??? I had it
figured out at one time, but we changed routes SEVERAL times over the
previous two weeks :-)

We have every intention of having a third event next year, so if this looks
like something you'd like to jump on and take advantage of the moderate
SoCal winter/spring, set your alarms for March 2016!

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 6:17 PM, Bob E reeh...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks, Hugh. Maybe next winter the Northeast won't get clobbered with so
 much snow and I'll be in a good-enough shape to tackle that terrain so
 early in the season!  ;-)

 Bob

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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-23 Thread Philip Williamson

Truly a fine day on the bike, and many wonderful people. I'll be back next year 
- it was well worth the drive. 

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-23 Thread cyclotourist

And it was a drive, especially on the Friday night trip down through LA!!!

I hope more Bay-Area/NorCal folks can make it down next year! Will do our
best to make it worth your while!!!

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 10:42 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 Truly a fine day on the bike, and many wonderful people. I'll be back next
 year - it was well worth the drive.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

2015-03-23 Thread Shoji Takahashi

For the pulley style, you'll need to make a cable stop at the 
mixte-tube/seat-tube area. Maybe a clamp-on stop? (Now you're starting to 
get janky, tho.) 

Maybe a rod through the seat-tube braze-ons with a pulley in the middle as 
your pivot?

shoji


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 4:23:09 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Bargain!

 I also want to use cantis on the Clementine we pre-ordered. I'm hoping Riv 
 will come through with something between now and when the frames arrive, 
 but if anyone finds anything please post it.


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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

I’ve done a couple of things on my bikes to improve the connection with the 
Shimano-style club (which is also used by Shutter Precision):

1)  Tin the bare ends of the wires with a little solder to make them more 
durable. See here: 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/ 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/ 

2)  Once you’ve got the length of the wire dialed in, seal the holes where the 
wires go into the plug with some clear two-part epoxy. That will hold the wires 
firmly in place and keep water out. Make sure you’ve got the wire length right 
before you do, because once the epoxy sets it’s there for good.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

 On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:02 AM, Peter Adler divisi@gmail.com wrote:
 
 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV 
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires 
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. Ideally, 
 there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact tabs in 
 the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be threaded 
 through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug connection 
 wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.
 
 Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the 
 bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the 
 contacts on the hub.
 
 Peter Adler
 who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few years, 
 with no silver-bullet solution to date in
 Berkeley, CA/USA
 
 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled into 
 the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?
 
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Re: [RBW] S3X hub for one of my Rivs; particular question about QR-type shifting setup.

Me too, actually, but this hub and wheel will be an auxiliary for those
times when I want multiple gears.

I like the seatstay idea, but mine doesn't have rack strut braze ons there.
I'm going to try to rig up some sort of QR attachment to the seatpost --
which will also have the merit of putting the shifter a bit closer to hand.

Stevie says the hub should arrive tomorrow; then end of week for build --
we'll see.

On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 9:34 PM, Philip Williamson 
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm with Eric. I simply found that for my riding, I preferred the direct
 drive feel of a fixed wheel more than the convenience of onboard shifting.

 As far as an easy on and off, I used my seat stay rack boss and a longer
 bolt to mount the thumb shifter. Pictures in my flickr and blog (search
 S3X), but I don't trust the phone to save the msg while I find them.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

P.S. Forgot to mention to make sure the plug is disconnected from the hub 
before you seal it with epoxy. That avoids the risk of gluing it to the hub.

—Eric N


 On Mar 23, 2015, at 9:11 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 
 I’ve done a couple of things on my bikes to improve the connection with the 
 Shimano-style club (which is also used by Shutter Precision):
 
 1)  Tin the bare ends of the wires with a little solder to make them more 
 durable. See here: 
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/ 
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/ 
 
 2)  Once you’ve got the length of the wire dialed in, seal the holes where 
 the wires go into the plug with some clear two-part epoxy. That will hold the 
 wires firmly in place and keep water out. Make sure you’ve got the wire 
 length right before you do, because once the epoxy sets it’s there for good.
 
 --Eric Norris
 campyonly...@me.com mailto:campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 
 On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:02 AM, Peter Adler divisi@gmail.com 
 mailto:divisi@gmail.com wrote:
 
 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV 
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires 
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. Ideally, 
 there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact tabs in 
 the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be threaded 
 through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug connection 
 wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.
 
 Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the 
 bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the 
 contacts on the hub.
 
 Peter Adler
 who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few years, 
 with no silver-bullet solution to date in
 Berkeley, CA/USA
 
 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled 
 into the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?
 
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Re: [RBW] S3X hub for one of my Rivs; particular question about QR-type shifting setup.

Bobby: I've toyed with the idea of a kickback hub myself, but hesitated
because direct is low, not high. I've thought that a kickback with coaster
brake would be an easy way to get coasting with a hill gear without having
to install a rear caliper.

I'll be interested to hear how you find yours -- drag, particularly in
high?

Does the coaster mech add drag over and above the epicyclic gear train? I
expect not, but I'd like to hear if it does.

The S3X is claimed to weight 980 grams -- I've heard they took a few off of
the original model at 1010 or so. At any rate, if you add a cassette hub, a
widish range cassette, a rear derailleur, additional chain, and a dt
shifter, you've made most of that back.

The Amazon ad for the coaster kickback, OTOH, says 1400 grams: quite a
chunky little thing. Maybe I'll eventually get cable housing stops brazed
on and run a rear caliper so that I can use the S3X with a freewheel.

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Montclair BobbyB montclairbob...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 I haven't ridden the S3X, and have read some bad reviews about durability,
 but proof is in the use, and it sounds like Eric has had success with his.
 I have trashed the internals of a (new generation) SunRace Sturmey-Archer
 8-speed IGH under only moderate off-road use... SunRace Customer Service
 was fabulous and immediately shipped new internals.  But it left me a bit
 leery about the durability of the internals.

 I may have also mentioned I recently built up a 2-speed fixie wheel for my
 friend John, who wanted to set up his Quickbeam with a vintage 2-speed
 cable-shifted Bendix hub (that he had modified/welded from a coaster brake
 version to a true 2-speed fixie).  The hub is heavy, but it is heavy duty
 for sure (which to me is worth the weight penalty).  I test rode it briefly
 and the play was very minor in both gears... it felt like a true fixed gear
 in either gear (and it felt secure).  John has been riding it for several
 weeks, and so far he loves it.

 On my S1, I have a 2x2 freewheel / flip-flop setup that I love, and while
 I can't shift it on the fly, it takes only a few moments (during a stop) to
 change gears. Best ride feel (IMO) with only minor inconvenience.

 I am finally lacing up my Sturmey 2-speed freewheel kickback hub (that has
 been in the box for 2+ years), which hopefully will hold up better than the
 8-speed.  Good luck, Patrick.

 BB


 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 11:34:37 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:

 I'm with Eric. I simply found that for my riding, I preferred the direct
 drive feel of a fixed wheel more than the convenience of onboard shifting.

 As far as an easy on and off, I used my seat stay rack boss and a longer
 bolt to mount the thumb shifter. Pictures in my flickr and blog (search
 S3X), but I don't trust the phone to save the msg while I find them.

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

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*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
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[RBW] Re: Chains do not like me.

Jim,
What chain tool would you recommend? I have one in my kit, though I had to 
think hard about whether I did or not, and just went and checked. It's 
something old from a multitool kit that I lost long ago. It relies on an 
allen wrench to do the pin pushing. My most common mistake is using locking 
skewers/bolts and forgetting to bring the necessary tool. 
David
Chicago

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 1:19:16 PM UTC-5, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 Yeah... I'm consistently amazed how few riders have a chain tool (a _GOOD_ 
 one) on board.  If you have any kind of options as far as gearing, it's 
 easy to drop a couple links and get home with a limited drivetrain.  As a 
 certain Gary Fisher once opined (early, early on...) The most important 
 think a (mountain) bike needs to do is get you home...

 However, I'm shocked, SHOCKED! to see anyone with a single-cog type 
 drivetrain venture anywhere without at least 8 links and a tool.  That's 
 part of the basic kit.  We did a fixed gear ride a number of years ago, and 
 only 2 out of 11 riders had a chain tool.  

 so, there's that...

 - J


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[RBW] Re: WTB 64cm Hillborne or 67 Hilsen

regg,
I don't have one for sale, but I'd throw out there that in my brief period 
of wanting a 64cm Hillborne (I opted for a Clem preorder), it was pointed 
out to me that one can still be had through Rivendell new as they have 
Waterford make them as needed. Price is higher than the stock sizes 
obviously.
David
Chicago

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 1:11:55 PM UTC-5, Gregg wrote:

 Help, I'm tired of trying to make a small frame work for me...my back is 
 killing me! Condition or shipping is not an issue!
 Thanks!
 Gregg


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[RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

I have at least one binder bolt mounted pulley that I saved from '80s
stepthrough MTBs. I believe I have one with a built in adjustable cable
stop. I've hung on to those for no particular reason, never really knew why
but now they have a potential use! I'm still debating whether my SO wants a
Clementine or not, and am saving it just in case. But they are out there in
parts bins somewhere.
David
Chicago

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 2:36:15 PM UTC-5, Pudge wrote:

I’m on the pre-order list for a Clementine, and enjoying everyone’s
noodlings on how to build up the Clems and ‘tines. Here’s my question: I
dislike (not to say “hate”, but the dislike is not insignificant) the way
the cabling for the rear brake looks in the pictures of the two built
Clementines on the most recent Blug post. The turquoise one with the canti
brakes has a *very* sharp turn from the top of the seat tube (which it
runs upwards from the upper down tube on) to the brake hanger, which
doesn’t look good to me. (I know, thinking this much about how it looks is
VERY un-Clem-like, but I’m an old guy and set in my ways!) The one with
V-brakes is better from the side, but in trying to imagine how the cable
gets from the last stop (on the upper down tube) to the brake, I’m thinking
it would look kind of, I don’t know, “jankety” (as my wife would say) –
off-center and flying out there on its own. And anyway, I’m not a fan of
V-brakes.

This is not likely to be an issue for anyone but the overly fastidious
(like me, unfortunately). Anyway, a solution occurred to me – some kind of
a pulley at the top of the seat tube, as used in some old step-throughs of
the non-mixte type. Like this, except this one’s brazed on:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/yattay/5760452302/in/photolist-9M2PM9-82BxvD-ryJ2uQ-8cQurT-86juhS-bnXZpd-a6L7BM-2rZbNk-azuRzn-pNLr7k-ocgKXs-8cQw4i-rhnAHi-9M2PL9-9LZ33x-9M2PH3-9M2PLJ-9LZ34B-9LZ35z-9LZ344-mXyJ6U-d9tYXS-86gfSV-mXwSsB-86jwPj-rhggJQ-nMScFA-9CL5pH-9Wqcf8-2s5NAh-8cQw3x-ocJuBc-oeAL3M-ou4wKy-ovTzoK-osoTkf-oxRi5p-2hsf73-ocP1HV-4aFuV2-owavcp-2s4tfG-fyrv5q-odpL7v-2s4qDA-2s15k4-2s16JT-52XQqp-2s1CW4-2s5feW

Anybody have an idea of where one might source such a pulley that could be
hung somehow off the seat tube binder bolt?

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[RBW] Re: Ram as a light tourer-your experiences?

2015-03-23 Thread ascpgh

Alan, I bought my Rambouillet (orange) just for that use, using an invite 
on a cross country ride as an excuse to move on from my RB-1. Plenty of 
conversation with Grant et al at Riv HQ.

I convinced the others not to get carried away with the self-supported 
concept as it would have dictated new bikes and a lot of super lightweight 
and compact gear to buy. I proposed spending that money on cheap motels and 
diners across the country so we could mingle among locals rather than be 
isolated, out at a campsite. 

I headed out with a B-17, SKS fenders, three bottle cages, Carradice Nelson 
Longflap and a Bagman support under it. Also had the bligatory odometer, 
battery head and tail lights. More importantly, I headed out the night 
before meeting my colleagues in Yorktown, VA (My new bike didn't arrive 
until 4 pm that evening). I ranged probably 18-35 pounds, all rear load on 
that trip. Bike performed beautifully. In colder, wetter weather I added a 
bar bag on the front for Riv Rally East in 2012 on the Great Allegheny 
Passage. I've done that in parts and completely on the same bike. 

Terrain? Straight up and down in Appalachia, flat and long days in the 
midwest, more hills in MO, disappearing roads, gravel mud and question in 
SE Kansas...a bit of everything. Since then I've been on snow-covered 
trails, steep hills along the three rivers here and the very convenient and 
interconnected rail trails of packed limestone. I rode 28c tires across the 
country and currently have Continental 32s which are more like 29 when 
measured. All good. 

My commuter is a Disc Trucker, specifically for the more lumbering handling 
giving confidence in the darkness, stoutness for unexpected potholes and 
bumps, and ability of discs to work in the most unfortunate of winter 
precipitation (more due tonight). I wouldn't choose it for a spirited trip 
across several hours or counties, specifically why I bought the new Ram. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:

 Hi to All,

 As Spring approaches, and summer plans are formulated, I'm thinking how to 
 best use my current fleet.  I have read, and firmly believe, that the Ram 
 could be used for light touring.  I'd love to hear about your experiences 
 with this.  What kind of terrain, your rack/pannier/bags/basket set up, 
 tires, etc.  Pictures would be lovely, as well.  What do you think are 
 reasonable limits in terms of weight?

 All and any wisdom is much appreciated...I feel that someone on this list 
 has already done anything I'm even contemplating, so why reinvent the wheel?

 Thanks in advance,
 Alan



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[RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

2015-03-23 Thread Bill Lindsay

Our favorite ebay seller has one on sale!

roller thing 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MAFAC-rear-pulley-for-Racer-COMPETITION-tiger-CRITERIUM-/271622927161?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3f3dfcf339

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 12:36:15 PM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:

  I’m on the pre-order list for a Clementine, and enjoying everyone’s 
 noodlings on how to build up the Clems and ‘tines.  Here’s my question:  I 
 dislike (not to say “hate”, but the dislike is not insignificant) the way 
 the cabling for the rear brake looks in the pictures of the two built 
 Clementines on the most recent Blug post.  The turquoise one with the canti 
 brakes has a *very* sharp turn from the top of the seat tube (which it 
 runs upwards from the upper down tube on) to the brake hanger, which 
 doesn’t look good to me.  (I know, thinking this much about how it looks is 
 VERY un-Clem-like, but I’m an old guy and set in my ways!)  The one with 
 V-brakes is better from the side, but in trying to imagine how the cable 
 gets from the last stop (on the upper down tube) to the brake, I’m thinking 
 it would look kind of, I don’t know, “jankety” (as my wife would say) – 
 off-center and flying out there on its own.  And anyway, I’m not a fan of 
 V-brakes.

  

 This is not likely to be an issue for anyone but the overly fastidious 
 (like me, unfortunately).  Anyway, a solution occurred to me – some kind of 
 a pulley at the top of the seat tube, as used in some old step-throughs of 
 the non-mixte type.  Like this, except this one’s brazed on:  
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/yattay/5760452302/in/photolist-9M2PM9-82BxvD-ryJ2uQ-8cQurT-86juhS-bnXZpd-a6L7BM-2rZbNk-azuRzn-pNLr7k-ocgKXs-8cQw4i-rhnAHi-9M2PL9-9LZ33x-9M2PH3-9M2PLJ-9LZ34B-9LZ35z-9LZ344-mXyJ6U-d9tYXS-86gfSV-mXwSsB-86jwPj-rhggJQ-nMScFA-9CL5pH-9Wqcf8-2s5NAh-8cQw3x-ocJuBc-oeAL3M-ou4wKy-ovTzoK-osoTkf-oxRi5p-2hsf73-ocP1HV-4aFuV2-owavcp-2s4tfG-fyrv5q-odpL7v-2s4qDA-2s15k4-2s16JT-52XQqp-2s1CW4-2s5feW

  

 Anybody have an idea of where one might source such a pulley that could be 
 hung somehow off the seat tube binder bolt?

  
  
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[RBW] Introduction - Newbie QB owner

2015-03-23 Thread WETH

Welcome. That is a beautiful bike!

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[RBW] Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

I'm on the pre-order list for a Clementine, and enjoying everyone's noodlings
on how to build up the Clems and 'tines. Here's my question: I dislike (not
to say hate, but the dislike is not insignificant) the way the cabling for
the rear brake looks in the pictures of the two built Clementines on the most
recent Blug post. The turquoise one with the canti brakes has a very sharp
turn from the top of the seat tube (which it runs upwards from the upper down
tube on) to the brake hanger, which doesn't look good to me. (I know, thinking
this much about how it looks is VERY un-Clem-like, but I'm an old guy and set
in my ways!) The one with V-brakes is better from the side, but in trying to
imagine how the cable gets from the last stop (on the upper down tube) to the
brake, I'm thinking it would look kind of, I don't know, jankety (as my wife
would say) - off-center and flying out there on its own. And anyway, I'm not a
fan of V-brakes.

This is not likely to be an issue for anyone but the overly fastidious (like
me, unfortunately). Anyway, a solution occurred to me - some kind of a pulley
at the top of the seat tube, as used in some old step-throughs of the non-mixte
type. Like this, except this one's brazed on:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/yattay/5760452302/in/photolist-9M2PM9-82BxvD-ryJ2uQ-8cQurT-86juhS-bnXZpd-a6L7BM-2rZbNk-azuRzn-pNLr7k-ocgKXs-8cQw4i-rhnAHi-9M2PL9-9LZ33x-9M2PH3-9M2PLJ-9LZ34B-9LZ35z-9LZ344-mXyJ6U-d9tYXS-86gfSV-mXwSsB-86jwPj-rhggJQ-nMScFA-9CL5pH-9Wqcf8-2s5NAh-8cQw3x-ocJuBc-oeAL3M-ou4wKy-ovTzoK-osoTkf-oxRi5p-2hsf73-ocP1HV-4aFuV2-owavcp-2s4tfG-fyrv5q-odpL7v-2s4qDA-2s15k4-2s16JT-52XQqp-2s1CW4-2s5feW

Anybody have an idea of where one might source such a pulley that could be hung
somehow off the seat tube binder bolt?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Parts - Help my pay off my Clem!

Lowering the price of the Swift bag, and I'll cover shipping for that and a 
couple others.
Paypal Personal please for these items. If you want Willow chainrings 
(treetop.bigcartel.com), I can include them in the package as well, and 
give you a better price if you do a Personal payment.

Swift Industries Large Rando Bag - gray waxed canvas (Swift charges more 
for this fabric option), with VO stem mount (1) decaleur - $185 shipped

Remaining items:
White Industries ENO Crankset - silver, 170mm, with silver 44t 1/8 
chainring - $150 (I'll cover shipping on this one as well)
Nitto Noodle - 46cm heat-treated - $50 plus shipping
Tioga MX Pro Platform Pedals - $50 (I'll cover shipping on this one as well)
Nifty Swifty 650b Tires - PAIR, with tubes - $40 plus shipping

Thanks,
David
Chicago



 On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 7:50:39 PM UTC-5, David Banzer wrote:

 Ordered a Clem, put it on a credit card, now it's time to pay it off! 
 Some Riv-ish, some not so Riv-ish parts.

 Paypal Personal payments on these (I normally do regular for my webstore 
 stuff, but these truly are personal parts, not associated with the 
 business-y side of my venture).
 Shipping is NOT included in prices. Prices will be actual USPS Priority 
 mail rates. Contact me for a quote.
 I'm taking a bike apart this weekend, so stuff will be packed up as they 
 come off.
 Please contact me offlist if you're interested. Photos available, though 
 they might take a little for me to get new photos.
 All parts are used
 Thanks,
 David
 Chicago

 (1.) White Industries ENO Crankset - silver, 170mm, with silver 44t 1/8 
 chainring - $150
 (2.) Dean Titanium Quill Stem - 100mm, 26.0mm clamp - $60
 (3.) Nitto Noodle - 46cm heat-treated - $50
 (4.) Tektro 720 Cantilever Brakeset - black, upgraded to Koolstop 
 (black/salmon pads) refillable brakes, w/ straddle cable  yokes - $40
 (5.) SRAM S900 Brake Levers - black carbon - $50
 (6.) Ti Cycles Seatpost - titanium, 27.2mm - $50
 (7.) Tioga MX Pro Platform Pedals - $50
 (8.) Swift Industries Large Rando Bag - gray waxed canvas (Swift charges 
 more for this), with VO stem mount (1) decaleur - $200
 (9.) Nifty Swifty 650b Tires - PAIR, with tubes - $40



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[RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Bargain!

I also want to use cantis on the Clementine we pre-ordered. I'm hoping Riv 
will come through with something between now and when the frames arrive, 
but if anyone finds anything please post it.

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[RBW] Funny

2015-03-23 Thread 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch

Thanks Jon. That was hilarious!

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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread Peter Adler

The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV 
hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires 
folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. 
Ideally, there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact 
tabs in the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be 
threaded through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug 
connection wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.

Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the 
bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the 
contacts on the hub.

Peter Adler
who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few years, 
with no silver-bullet solution to date in
Berkeley, CA/USA

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:

 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled 
 into the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?


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RE: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

One clamp-on stop might not be bad.  I use them routinely for cabling the 
3-speed S-A hubs I use on charity auction mixte builds.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Shoji Takahashi
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 4:42 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

For the pulley style, you'll need to make a cable stop at the 
mixte-tube/seat-tube area. Maybe a clamp-on stop? (Now you're starting to get 
janky, tho.)

Maybe a rod through the seat-tube braze-ons with a pulley in the middle as your 
pivot?

shoji

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 4:23:09 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:
Bargain!

I also want to use cantis on the Clementine we pre-ordered. I'm hoping Riv will 
come through with something between now and when the frames arrive, but if 
anyone finds anything please post it.
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[RBW] Introduction - Newbie QB owner

2015-03-23 Thread Philip Williamson

Welcome! Always nice to see another Quickbeam owner. I'm really impressed with 
your Bendix wheel, and the Wald mod. Beautiful bike - very sharp!

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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RE: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Price is right.  I ordered one to see how it might be used for the ‘tine.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Harrop
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 5:43 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Yeah, I can live with a clamp on stop and a pulley.

Found this pulley thing in a UK webshop: 
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chrome-seat-bolt-fitting-cable-hanger-with-metal-roller-prod23279/.
 Not a lot of info, but could that be an integrated cable stop at the bottom?
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RE: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Oh, great – now if I buy it I’ll have to endure completely justifiable outrage 
from the group over encouraging the guy….

Fortunately, it’s occurred to me there’s another problem – if I try to use a 
pulley hung from the seat binder bolt I’ll have to figure out a way to get the 
cable from the front of the seat post (or more likely, from the last cable 
stop, which I can’t see from the pics but which seems to be under the upper 
downtube on the non-drive side, several inches short of the seat tube?) to the 
back of the seat post, where the pulley will be hanging.  Maybe I just need to 
get reconciled to V-brakes.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Bill Lindsay
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 3:59 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Our favorite ebay seller has one on sale!

roller 
thinghttp://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MAFAC-rear-pulley-for-Racer-COMPETITION-tiger-CRITERIUM-/271622927161?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3f3dfcf339

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 12:36:15 PM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
I’m on the pre-order list for a Clementine, and enjoying everyone’s noodlings 
on how to build up the Clems and ‘tines.  Here’s my question:  I dislike (not 
to say “hate”, but the dislike is not insignificant) the way the cabling for 
the rear brake looks in the pictures of the two built Clementines on the most 
recent Blug post.  The turquoise one with the canti brakes has a very sharp 
turn from the top of the seat tube (which it runs upwards from the upper down 
tube on) to the brake hanger, which doesn’t look good to me.  (I know, thinking 
this much about how it looks is VERY un-Clem-like, but I’m an old guy and set 
in my ways!)  The one with V-brakes is better from the side, but in trying to 
imagine how the cable gets from the last stop (on the upper down tube) to the 
brake, I’m thinking it would look kind of, I don’t know, “jankety” (as my wife 
would say) – off-center and flying out there on its own.  And anyway, I’m not a 
fan of V-brakes.

This is not likely to be an issue for anyone but the overly fastidious (like 
me, unfortunately).  Anyway, a solution occurred to me – some kind of a pulley 
at the top of the seat tube, as used in some old step-throughs of the non-mixte 
type.  Like this, except this one’s brazed on:  
https://www.flickr.com/photos/yattay/5760452302/in/photolist-9M2PM9-82BxvD-ryJ2uQ-8cQurT-86juhS-bnXZpd-a6L7BM-2rZbNk-azuRzn-pNLr7k-ocgKXs-8cQw4i-rhnAHi-9M2PL9-9LZ33x-9M2PH3-9M2PLJ-9LZ34B-9LZ35z-9LZ344-mXyJ6U-d9tYXS-86gfSV-mXwSsB-86jwPj-rhggJQ-nMScFA-9CL5pH-9Wqcf8-2s5NAh-8cQw3x-ocJuBc-oeAL3M-ou4wKy-ovTzoK-osoTkf-oxRi5p-2hsf73-ocP1HV-4aFuV2-owavcp-2s4tfG-fyrv5q-odpL7v-2s4qDA-2s15k4-2s16JT-52XQqp-2s1CW4-2s5feW

Anybody have an idea of where one might source such a pulley that could be hung 
somehow off the seat tube binder bolt?


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[RBW] Re: Introduction - Newbie QB owner

2015-03-23 Thread Liesl

Yep, welcome to the group!  I love the color scheme of black and orange and 
always good to see a QB with a basket!  -liesl

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[RBW] Re: Barcon cable routing

2015-03-23 Thread David

Thanks, everyone, for your replies.  I'm going clean this time.  Now I just 
need to settle on tape.

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 4:05:02 PM UTC-7, David wrote:

 I'm curious what the group's opinion or preference is (and why) regarding 
 barcon cable routing.  AFAIK, on the one hand, you can do it the RBW (or, 
 traditional) way where the cables shoot out the front of the drops after 
 just a few rounds of tape concealing the cables, or you can keep the cables 
 completely hidden until they route down at the stem/headtube.  I understand 
 that there's a bit more friction if you go the hidden route, but, other 
 than that, is there a real big difference beyond aesthetics?  I appreciate 
 your thoughts.



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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv Sam Hillborne 60cm F/F/HS - orange, side pull brakes, single top tube, chez Canada

2015-03-23 Thread Matt

SOLD

On Sunday, March 8, 2015 at 2:53:14 PM UTC-4, Matt wrote:

 Hello Rivbikers:

 I realize I don't post often at all to this group, but I make reading 
 posts part of my day.  It's a great community and I'd like to return my 
 60cm single-top-tube, side-pull brake Sam Hillborne frameset to it.

 I found the frame to be mighty stout without the second top tube and the 
 single top tube makes the bike easy to shoulder.  The frame has the odd 
 small beausage mark to its orange paint, but is in excellent condition 
 overall. I built it up nicely, but did not ride it much, favouring a 
 single-speed Surly instead. Its insides were sprayed with rust inhibitor 
 and assembled using anti-seize and Phil Wood grease wherever appropriate. 
 The SKS Longboard fenders and Tektro long reach brakes pictured are also 
 available. Please feel free to contact me with inquiries or try your trade. 
  

 Located in Kingston, Ontario, Canada.  Asking $750US obo + shipping.

 Thank you and happy riding!

 Matt
 matthias352 on *bay


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Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Yeah, I can live with a clamp on stop and a pulley.

Found this pulley thing in a UK webshop: 
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chrome-seat-bolt-fitting-cable-hanger-with-metal-roller-prod23279/.
 
Not a lot of info, but could that be an integrated cable stop at the bottom?

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[RBW] Re: LHT vs Clem ??

2015-03-23 Thread Wayne Naha

Your Clem holds it own very nicely against it's larger sibling.  A definite 
family resemblance.

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 12:14:58 AM UTC-4, drew beckmeyer wrote:

 here is our first family photo with the 46 clem and 54 hunqapillar on a 
 late night trip. laid back, long and stout.



 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y71L3W_ubgw/VQ-R-15SPlI/AMY/f3RcJWfLecM/s1600/FullSizeRender%2B%2827%29.jpg


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RE: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

I bought one of these from this guy – a little cheaper than Bill’s candidate.  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301529752711  As of a couple of minutes ago he still 
had one left.

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Harrop
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 4:23 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

Bargain!

I also want to use cantis on the Clementine we pre-ordered. I'm hoping Riv will 
come through with something between now and when the frames arrive, but if 
anyone finds anything please post it.
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RE: [RBW] Re: Drive Train Mystery Sound

Great site -- lots of good information and ideas.

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of lungimsam
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 10:41 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Drive Train Mystery Sound

Just look at Jim Langleys page on detecting bike noises:

http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html

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[RBW] Re: Drive Train Mystery Sound

2015-03-23 Thread lungimsam

Jim Langley's site was, I think, the first site I visited to learn about 
bike riding. It has a warm place in my heart. I learned a lot and gained 
confidence about wrenching from his site. I learned there to use my rear 
trunk bike rack as a repair stand. So simple and effective!!
He was also always very patient and kind to respond to all my mechanics 
questions.

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[RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple

2015-03-23 Thread Mark Reimer

Nice! Glad you got it working Deacon. I love wide-narrow rings. They can 
make for a noisy drivetrain over time as the teeth are a precise fit to the 
chain, but staying on top of cleaning makes it a non-issue. 

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:56:16 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 The chain is shorter with this set up now. I can actually use the full 
 range of gears in both, though I minimize the use of cross chaining in the 
 24t as it's in the inside position of the triple. The 38t is in the middle, 
 so I use it's full range.

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 8:50:15 AM UTC-6, Montclair BobbyB wrote:

 I always use friction shifting on my front derailleur (and don't 
 understand why one would want indexed FDs, mainly because you lose the 
 ability to trim)... On my mountain bikes, I run SRAM XO or X9 Grip Shifts 
 (indexed rear, friction front) and swear by them (but realize that's a 
 tough sell to most people)... I also love the old Suntour XC rear 
 derailleurs, with super heavy springs.  I seldom drop chains on even the 
 roughest technical terrain.

 Patrick, if you're dropping your chain on rough terrain, could it be a 
 combination of having too much chain, required for running a 1x setup, 
 and/or perhaps not having a strong enough spring on the rear derailleur? 
  Whether you hate your FD, running a triple (or double) does enable you to 
 run a shorter chain if you stick to the rule of keeping a straight 
 chainline, not crossing your chain from large cog to large chainring or 
 vice versa, 

 Just one opinion.  BB 


 On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 9:39:41 AM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I hear you, Ron. The FD really adds a stunning amount of sound that I 
 could never get rid of. It's also a common sentament among those who shift 
 to a 1x drive train to be delighted to not have the FD to mess with. This 
 way, I have my rock guard (my 46t ring), my riding gear, and my granny, but 
 without a FD.

 At least for the riding I do as me (and is there any other way? Grin.) I 
 spend all my time in my middle ring (36t previously, 38t now, with 12-34t 
 cogs) with the sole exception of singletrack or high altitude steep dirt 
 roads, in which case I'm not shifting the front rings back and forth, but 
 staying in the 24t.

 I'm not saying this set up is for anyone but me, but on my initial ride 
 I was amazed by how snug and responsive and silent the drivetrain was. If 
 it's any consolation, when I asked my wife and daughters how they would 
 like to shift their front chain rings when I build up their Clementines, it 
 was unanimous. FD's all round!

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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Re: [RBW] FS: 3 sets of tires: Grand Bois EL 700Cx28, Soma Cazadero 650Bx42, Vredestein Duo Comp Retro 700Cx25

Huge response on the Cerfs, so these are tentatively taken.

Caza's and Vred's still available.

Anton


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 11:12:24 AM UTC-4, somervillebikes wrote:

 I've been accumulating these 3 sets of tires for some time for upcoming 
 builds, but those build plans have changed dramatically.

 All prices INCLUDE shipping CONUS:


- Grand Bois Cerf 700x28C, in Extra Leger form. Pair, NEW, unopened. 
Full disclaimer: I purchased these from I's Bicycle in Japan during their 
sale, and I'm offering them for what I paid with shipping! I's Bike says 
they are 10% heavier than the original Extra Leger but still way lighter 
than the stock 700x28 Cerf. $90.


- Soma Cazadero 650x42B, black sidewall. Pair, NEW, mounted but not 
ridden. $110.


- Vredestein Forteeza Duo Comp Retro, 700x25C, brown sidewall. Pair, 
used with about 500 miles. Look 90% new.  $50.


 Anton



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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread Jim Bronson

2.  I think I'd rather use some caulk or something else flexible to
seal the holes than epoxy...

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 I’ve done a couple of things on my bikes to improve the connection with the
 Shimano-style club (which is also used by Shutter Precision):

 1)  Tin the bare ends of the wires with a little solder to make them more
 durable. See here:
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/

 2)  Once you’ve got the length of the wire dialed in, seal the holes where
 the wires go into the plug with some clear two-part epoxy. That will hold
 the wires firmly in place and keep water out. Make sure you’ve got the wire
 length right before you do, because once the epoxy sets it’s there for good.

 --Eric Norris
 campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

 On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:02 AM, Peter Adler divisi@gmail.com wrote:

 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. Ideally,
 there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact tabs in
 the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be threaded
 through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug connection
 wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.

 Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the
 bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the
 contacts on the hub.

 Peter Adler
 who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few years,
 with no silver-bullet solution to date in
 Berkeley, CA/USA

 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:

 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled
 into the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?


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Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!

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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

Slick, nice tips. I like the epoxy part.

Anton


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 12:11:48 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:

 I’ve done a couple of things on my bikes to improve the connection with 
 the Shimano-style club (which is also used by Shutter Precision):

 1)  Tin the bare ends of the wires with a little solder to make them more 
 durable. See here: 
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/ 

 2)  Once you’ve got the length of the wire dialed in, seal the holes where 
 the wires go into the plug with some clear two-part epoxy. That will hold 
 the wires firmly in place and keep water out. Make sure you’ve got the wire 
 length right before you do, because once the epoxy sets it’s there for good.

 --Eric Norris
 campyo...@me.com javascript:
 www.campyonly.com
 campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 

 On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:02 AM, Peter Adler divis...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV 
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires 
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. 
 Ideally, there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact 
 tabs in the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be 
 threaded through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug 
 connection wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.

 Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the 
 bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the 
 contacts on the hub.

 Peter Adler
 who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few 
 years, with no silver-bullet solution to date in
 Berkeley, CA/USA

 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:

 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled 
 into the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?


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Re: [RBW] need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

That would work. Or maybe some clear silicone, which you could probably peel 
off if you ever wanted to change the wiring.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

 On Mar 23, 2015, at 10:18 AM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 2.  I think I'd rather use some caulk or something else flexible to
 seal the holes than epoxy...
 
 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
 I’ve done a couple of things on my bikes to improve the connection with the
 Shimano-style club (which is also used by Shutter Precision):
 
 1)  Tin the bare ends of the wires with a little solder to make them more
 durable. See here:
 http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/
 
 2)  Once you’ve got the length of the wire dialed in, seal the holes where
 the wires go into the plug with some clear two-part epoxy. That will hold
 the wires firmly in place and keep water out. Make sure you’ve got the wire
 length right before you do, because once the epoxy sets it’s there for good.
 
 --Eric Norris
 campyonly...@me.com
 www.campyonly.com
 campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
 
 On Mar 23, 2015, at 2:02 AM, Peter Adler divisi@gmail.com wrote:
 
 The plug that connects the cable from the lights to the contacts on the SV
 hubs has what I think is a pretty clumsy connection, with the bare wires
 folded over a plastic inner section to contact the tabs on the hub. Ideally,
 there would be something more secure. Say, a second set of contact tabs in
 the light-side of the plug with a hole, so the cables could be threaded
 through the hole (or soldered in place), and the cable-to-plug connection
 wouldn't detach as the cable gets knocked around.
 
 Double-check the plug attached to the cable. Odds are, one or both of the
 bare wire ends have slipped out of position, and are no longer touching the
 contacts on the hub.
 
 Peter Adler
 who's had to address this very issue several times over the last few years,
 with no silver-bullet solution to date in
 Berkeley, CA/USA
 
 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:05:11 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
 
 Have you checked that the wires were (and still are) correctly assembled
 into the plug, and they’re making proper contact with the hub?
 
 
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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down!
 
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[RBW] FS: Campagnolo Omega 19 clincher rims, pair, 32H, black ano



As part of my larger bike re-org, I'm selling off these early 1990s rims.  
Campy Omega 19, 32H, black anodized.  Double wall, eyeleted. Very light 
use, braking surface has minimal wear.  Decals all intact. Rims were in 
perfect true before unlacing the wheelset.  Overall excellent. How does $90 
shipped CONUS sound?

Model info at Velobase. 
http://www.velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=DACA9409-E868-43B3-BA6E-AEB714742349Enum=107AbsPos=5

Only one photo that I could find... but I can post more later tonight.

Anton


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8508/8397224036_0c246081d4_c.jpg



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[RBW] Ram as a light tourer-your experiences?

2015-03-23 Thread alan lavine

Hi to All,

As Spring approaches, and summer plans are formulated, I'm thinking how to 
best use my current fleet.  I have read, and firmly believe, that the Ram 
could be used for light touring.  I'd love to hear about your experiences 
with this.  What kind of terrain, your rack/pannier/bags/basket set up, 
tires, etc.  Pictures would be lovely, as well.  What do you think are 
reasonable limits in terms of weight?

All and any wisdom is much appreciated...I feel that someone on this list 
has already done anything I'm even contemplating, so why reinvent the wheel?

Thanks in advance,
Alan

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[RBW] Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-23 Thread hsmitham

We had another great ride out in cyclotourist country. David was a great 
host, we had gourmet pizza  craft beer. The day of the ride was superb! We 
had Paul Germain visiting from Virginia for the second year riding his 
brother in laws A.A.H. and  Ian on his custom red Atlantis, Biketinker 
Phillip came down from Northern Cal with Jacquie Phelan representing. Jim, 
Estaban  Aaron were seen climbing some awesome single track. This is short 
so others can fill in any details I miss.

Here's some images:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/pedalpusher61/with/16285457244/

Cheers,

~Hugh
  Los Angeles, CA

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[RBW] WTB 64cm Hillborne or 67 Hilsen

2015-03-23 Thread Gregg

Help, I'm tired of trying to make a small frame work for me...my back is 
killing me! Condition or shipping is not an issue!
Thanks!
Gregg

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Re: [RBW] S3X hub for one of my Rivs; particular question about QR-type shifting setup.

2015-03-23 Thread Mark Parker

I have chimed in before as well and the only other comment I will add is 
that I run the 2nd gear as my cruising gear and have 1st as my bailout gear 
and 3rd as my downhill gear.  I really enjoy the 80's downhill gear and 
find myself in that gear quite a bit.  1st is also low enough that I rarely 
have to walk up.

I can feel the drag in 1st  2nd, but I can feel it more in 1st.  I am 
rarely in first so that is not a big deal.

Mark

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[RBW] Re: need help troubleshooting my eyc dyno light and sp hub combo

2015-03-23 Thread RobbeR49

Don't know if I can help much as I've got a schmidt hub on my bike that 
uses the spade connectors. It kind of looks like those shutter connectors 
might work better with solid copper wire, but of course that would probably 
be stiff and a pain to deal with. 

Who built up your wheel? Just curious, I live in Columbus also.

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 10:04:27 PM UTC-4, joe kelly wrote:

 i got the Shutter Precision SV-8 Dynamo Hub 36h 
 http://www.rivbike.com/SP-dyno-hub-p/hu-18202.htm and BM Eyc Dyno 
 Headlight http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/ltd-16.htm from rivendell 
 for christmas. i had the hub built into a wheel here in columbus ohio. the 
 light/wheel combo worked perfectly in my living room and on a short test 
 ride, but now a few days later has suddenly stopped working. this is my 
 first dyno hub/light. anyone have a similar experience or suggestions?
 thanks for your time
 joe kelly
 columbus ohio


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Re: [RBW] Re: LHT vs Clem ??

2015-03-23 Thread Wayne Naha

The folks I've spoken to at Riv tell me that the Clem's stoutness falls 
between the Sam and the Hunq.  To me, that would put the Clem's stoutness 
level near to the Atlantis, though obviously very different geometry. 
 Since the LHT is widely taken to be derivative from the Atlantis, one 
could expect that the Clem would also be similar in stoutness to the LHT.  

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 4:36:00 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:



 On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 12:29:42 PM UTC-7, alan lavine wrote:

 Let me be clear: I will use and enjoy the Clem in any case, I'm just 
 playing around with ideas on how I will set it up.  Frame geometry and 
 tubing specs can give you an idea about how a bike will feel and the most 
 appropriate way to set it up, but its no substitute for actually riding it.

 Bottom line question: Will the Clem be more comfortable for light touring 
 than the LHT (when used for light touring)?


 Probably?  The Clem would almost certainly be heavier and slower, but 
 almost certainly more comfortable.  I'd almost certainly be smiling and 
 enjoying the scenery more on a Clem with Bosco bars.  
  

 Related question: What is it about the Clem that makes it intended for 
 upright bars?


 The thing about the Clem that makes it intended for upright bars is that 
 Grant has said from the get-go that upright bars was and is his intent when 
 he designed it.  They have a recommended/suggested build list, and say 
 Albatross or Bosco.  I think drop bars on the Clem would be a mistake.  I 
 think skinny tires on a Clem would be a mistake, also.  (It's funny that I 
 now think of 700x38 as skinny, but here we are!)  I bet that if you called 
 Riv and wanted the exact TT length, they might be reluctant to tell you and 
 try to talk you out of drop bars.  If they did that, it would be because 
 they like you and want to help you be the happiest you can possibly be on 
 your bike.  They believe (and I agree) that the happiest Clem-riders will 
 be using Bosco bars or something very similar.  

 That said, I'm just guessing and you definitely should try whatever it is 
 you feel like trying.  It's just that your initial statement about your LHT 
 not being light enough or not being right for light touring or credit card 
 touring.  The Clem is definitely not a lighter faster LHT.  The Clem is a 
 Clem.  It is in its own category.  For sure nobody knows for sure what a 
 Clem with drop bars will feel like, because nobody has ever done it.  I 
 would guess the long TT will force you to a tiny stem and will make the 
 bike handle weird.  It might be overstating it, but it could ruin the bike. 
  To prove that to yourself, I suppose you need to know the TT length. 

 Thanks.




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[RBW] Re: Which Riv to Rando?

2015-03-23 Thread William deRosset

Dear Darin,

I started riding brevets in 2004. That first season, I tried a few 
different machines. 

I started on a straight racing bike, a Waterford 2200. I put the widest 
tires that would fit it (the 27mm Roly Poly, which, due to their width, had 
to be faster than the 22mm veloflex I had been using, right?), and bodged 
on Berthoud racing fenders. That bike did far better than I did, though my 
experience on a hilly 300K started a game of musical saddles (for bikes 
with steep seat angles--I ride a Brooks for ones with 72deg and slacker) 
that took two years to settle down. I also recognized that trying to hang 
with a group that included RAAM champions revving up for their summer race 
wasn't a good idea for the second half of the ride. I bonked, took wrong 
turns, had to adjust my cleats, and, worse, lost my cue sheet! I groveled 
back in, chasing a group I couldn't quite catch (but who knew the way) 

So, for the 400K, I decided I was going to ride solo anyway, so I took the 
Heron Touring bike. Brooks Professional saddle, SPD cleats, triple crank. A 
wonderful, comfortable bike, and a well-behaved one with a handlebar bag. I 
mounted my fastest tires, the RP 27mm mentioned above (taking off a set 
of 35mm Paselas, which turned out to be both objectively faster and far 
more comfortable, but that is another story). This time, I'd have snacks in 
the handlebar bag, a map in front of me, and my hub generator lights. 
 Well, in practice, that touring bike, so comfortable for day rides up to 
200K, became a different animal on longer rides. The bike just didn't play 
well with a front load, and I had to keep a firm grip on the handlebars to 
keep the bike on-track. I still got misplaced even with a map in front of 
me (still true, unfortunately). And the bike was more work than the 
racing bike. 

I switched back to riding the machine that was more comfortable for 
distance at speed--my criterium racing bike (though equipped with a 
different saddle). I eventually switched tires to Vittoria CX clinchers 
(25mm), which were both more comfortable and faster than the RP's, and 
added a small handelbar bag. The bike did better with that than the touring 
bike! It wasn't perfect (I still had to store stuff in a saddlebag, and 
battery lighting was a hassle), and I went through a few different machines 
before I found one that was completely congenial for the sport--an 
integrated front-loading randonneur, which provides the performance of my 
racing machines and the carrying capacity of my touring bike, at the 
expense of a (historically) difficult to source machine.

My point: ride the bike that fits you best and that agrees with your riding 
style. You'll get a chance to refine once you discover what works and what 
doesn't. I'd suggest, unless you're a really big fellow, that the (already 
pretty stout) Romulus is going to ride better over distance if the fit is 
equal than the Atlantis unless you're planning to carry rear Panniers (in 
which case I'd question your packing strategy for a brevet. I'm considered 
a heavy packer, and I carry 5lb of gear, clothing, and food for a summer 
1200K ride. Try to keep your dry weight under 4lb). 

TRY YOUR RIG before you ride it a long way. For example, I just strapped a 
handlebar bag to my Heron and discovered the hard way that it really didn't 
like a front load. No sir. These days I commute on my randonneuring bike, 
so I also have the chance to keep an eye in its condition and work out any 
very tiny issues at the home shop before I'm stuck with them on a brevet. 

You're already on the right track with tires, and your biases trend toward 
mine--light, fast-rolling, high-volume. The Marathons will definitely 
affect your ride vs the Barlow Pass, but, again, I'd be riding 32's on a 
different machine, and there are many, many successful randonneurs out 
there on Atlantises and Surly LHTs (which is a close relative of the 
Atlantis) as well. I also finished my ride on the Heron, though 2h slower 
than expected and in some discomfort. All experiences that improved and 
refined my approach to brevet riding and randonneuring.

Best,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 9:32:53 AM UTC-6, Darin G. wrote:

 I'm getting ready for a brevet series starting late next month.  I'd been 
 planning on riding my Romulus which is set up with the original factory 
 wheels and the extraordinary Compass Stampede Pass tires and fenders.  My 
 thoght was to add the Mark's rack to the Romulus and be ready to go with 
 battery lighting, but I'm sitting here in my office staring at my mighty 
 Atlantis with its dyno, Luxos headlight with USB charging, brake lights, 
 and luggage and wondering whether it wouldn't be the better choice, 
 especially if I replaced the Marathon Supreme's with Barlow Pass tires for 
 the Brevets.  First world problems, I know. I'm confident the Atlantis is 
 the more comfortable bike of the two, but the Rom is

[RBW] Re: Clem info for the Tall and Long

2015-03-23 Thread Wayne Naha

I had the same experience.  When I asked for head tube and seat tube 
angles, the man replied that he did not have those numbers.  When I asked 
if anyone else there did know these numbers, he referred me to Grant, as 
the only person with access to the numbers.  I don't understand why they 
are so cagey about basic information about the bicycle.  I think they would 
do better if they simply answered folk's questions.  I want to understand 
what it is that I am buying here.  How can I know if this bike is right for 
me?  I literally live across the continent from Riv.  There is no way I can 
test ride the bike.  Nobody will be happy if I buy this this bike and it is 
is not right, in terms of fit or ride.  More information would help.

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 11:09:58 AM UTC-4, Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:

 Lucky you!

 I tried to get geometry information on the smallest Clem and Clementine 
 and the person I spoke to effectively refused to give it to me.

 -- Liz



 On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 9:12:25 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


   I had some questions about the Clem for Keven about the 59cm. Clem that 
 he graciously answered for me and thought I'd pass them along . 

 1. The head/front end(top of the head tube) on the Clem is virtually 
 identical in  height as my 60cm. Bombadil .  
 2. The top tube is 61cm-ish .  That's 2cm. shorter than the Bomba , :(  
 . (Too short for me,, boo-hoo , lol )
 3. The head and seat angles he as not positive on, likely the same as the 
 Bomba , which is a 72 ST and 71 HT. 
 4. In regards to number one, to get the highest bars, the steering tube 
 is always left as long as possible ! 
 5. The BB and headset are likely Tange's . 
 6. If you want a different front cable hanger, you can buy one separately 
 for it .  I assume he meant the would install it in place of the stock one. 


   And he welcomes questions, which is awesome !  !  

 Oh yes ...  he also added this : * Grant is making noise about creating 
 a 64cm Clementine which would have a bigger headtube (higher handlebars) 
 than your Bombadil and the 59cm Clem's, so that might be worth waiting for/ 
 signing up for.  Not sure if it will be included with the first shipment*
 .


 So there just *may *be a 64cm Clementine !  Which I'd love as a top tube 
 on a Clem would be close to my max clearance wise .  I always wanted a 
 Betty or something like it in the past but it was always just not quite 
 tall/long enough for me , so this solves all that :)  Yeah ! 



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[RBW] FS: ~2001 Heron Road frame/fork, 58 cm, with brakes and headset $550

2015-03-23 Thread Margaret Fields

Hi folks,

I have listed my Heron road frame on our local CL, and I'm not getting a 
lot of interest. I thought this group of like-minded cyclists might think 
otherwise. This frame is from the Todd Kuzma era, just after he purchased 
Heron but before the Rally and Wayfarer names were introduced, so there may 
be a slight difference in details. I've tried to cover all the pertinent 
information in the posting, but feel free to ask for clarification. I'm 
happy to get the local bike shop to pack and ship the frame. It's a great 
bike. I decided to go with wider tires for the new one.

Thanks,
Margaret

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/bik/4938506365.html

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[RBW] Re: I test rode the Clem

2015-03-23 Thread Christopher Miller Rosales

Bill, I am a bit of a perfectionist builder myself. I like to step back and 
make sure everything on the bike fits into a certain theme/model while 
remaining utilitarian. My thoughts on ordering the frame are exactly yours. 
An easy bike, hop on and ride, don't think about it. Get some tacos and 
just plop the kickstand outside, throw the wheel lock on, and I'm gold. 
Great write up, you should make Riv post that on the clem page ;)

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for head coverings for riding in the sun?

2015-03-23 Thread John

Thanks Chris, much appreciated. 

Love your photos. They make me want to take a trip out to see the in-laws, 
though they're a bit south of you, down near Corpus Christi.

Happy Trails!

John

On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 2:33:44 PM UTC-7, Pondero wrote:

 John,

 My straw hat is made by Resistol.

 Chris Johnson
 Sanger, Texas


 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 12:00:15 PM UTC-5, John wrote:

 Chris, 

 What make is your Stetson?

 thanks,

 John

 On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 6:12:44 AM UTC-7, Pondero wrote:

 Bringing my shade with me... 

 http://instagram.com/p/sauukJnPxU/ 

 Chris Johnson 
 Sanger, Texas 



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[RBW] Re: Ram as a light tourer-your experiences?

2015-03-23 Thread Kieran J

I think the Rambouillet is basically a textbook example of a light tourer. 
Tire clearance with fenders is restricted and most lack mid-fork lowrider 
eyelets; otherwise, it's pretty great.

The Ram is not some superlight waif - I don't think it would take issue 
with some baggage attached. 

KJ


On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 1:19:51 PM UTC-4, alan lavine wrote:

 Hi to All,

 As Spring approaches, and summer plans are formulated, I'm thinking how to 
 best use my current fleet.  I have read, and firmly believe, that the Ram 
 could be used for light touring.  I'd love to hear about your experiences 
 with this.  What kind of terrain, your rack/pannier/bags/basket set up, 
 tires, etc.  Pictures would be lovely, as well.  What do you think are 
 reasonable limits in terms of weight?

 All and any wisdom is much appreciated...I feel that someone on this list 
 has already done anything I'm even contemplating, so why reinvent the wheel?

 Thanks in advance,
 Alan



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Re: [RBW] Re: Mounting bolt coming loose on twin-leg kickstand

Thanks Steve, that certainly looks like it's doing the job! That's what I 
meant, although I don't think that particular one would work with my 
Bombadil: https://flic.kr/p/boK38V. Do you put a toe strap on the brake or 
something to stop the front wheel rolling? 

Part of the problem is that in my part of the world (south of France) there 
are rarely bike racks that I can lean my bike against to lock. Best case is 
the small hoops that are intended to hold the rear tyre. My tyres don't fit 
in those, so I have to park next to them rather than in them, which means I 
think I will have to persist with some sort of kickstand... hmm

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

If that's like the one I have, you can put in a threaded housing stop 
adjuster on the underside and run housing straight to the pulley.
David
Chicago

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 4:43:22 PM UTC-5, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Yeah, I can live with a clamp on stop and a pulley.

 Found this pulley thing in a UK webshop: 
 http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chrome-seat-bolt-fitting-cable-hanger-with-metal-roller-prod23279/.
  
 Not a lot of info, but could that be an integrated cable stop at the bottom?


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[RBW] Re: Which Riv to Rando?

2015-03-23 Thread Darin G.

All, I really appreciate your thoughtful responses.  I am moving back 
towards using the Romulus.  I put a fine 50 miles on it on Sunday at the 
pace I'd like to ride for the first 200K brevet and couldn't think of a 
complaint. Thoughts and worries about how it was working pretty much just 
disappeared from my mind and I just enjoyed the ride.  I'm going to put the 
Mark's rack on it and my Berthoud bag and see how it does on another 50+ 
ride before the events just to work out any kinks with the bag and make 
sure I'm comfortable with the handling. Otherwise, I feel like I've got the 
right tool for the job.

On Friday, March 20, 2015 at 9:32:53 AM UTC-6, Darin G. wrote:

 I'm getting ready for a brevet series starting late next month.  I'd been 
 planning on riding my Romulus which is set up with the original factory 
 wheels and the extraordinary Compass Stampede Pass tires and fenders.  My 
 thoght was to add the Mark's rack to the Romulus and be ready to go with 
 battery lighting, but I'm sitting here in my office staring at my mighty 
 Atlantis with its dyno, Luxos headlight with USB charging, brake lights, 
 and luggage and wondering whether it wouldn't be the better choice, 
 especially if I replaced the Marathon Supreme's with Barlow Pass tires for 
 the Brevets.  First world problems, I know. I'm confident the Atlantis is 
 the more comfortable bike of the two, but the Rom is faster. Most of the 
 folks here in Utah ride brevets on racing style bikes, usually without 
 fenders, and I'm apprehensive about not being able to keep up with anyone 
 and having to ride alone. Thoughts on the Atlantis with the Barlow Pass 
 would be appreciated.   

 DG


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Re: [RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple

2015-03-23 Thread Mark Reimer

No. Every other tooth is wider. Google it, pictures make it easy to understand. 



 On Mar 23, 2015, at 6:39 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What is a narrow wide chainring? = wide range double?
 
 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 5:05 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:
 You can't run a front derailer with a NW chainring--it might allow the chain 
 to get off sync and not line up correctly to the narrow/wide teeth.
 
 I run with a double and no front derailer on a couple of my bikes. Works 
 great: riding solo, move it to the 42t ring. Mountain biking or riding with 
 kids, move it to the 32t. On my Cross Check, this also makes it easy to 
 switch between geared and single speed configurations.
 
 
 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 8:01 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:
 seems like if you've gone to the trouble to fit a chain to that wide range, 
 a FD is a no-brainer.  Especially shifting between the two larger rings in 
 terrain when you're moving.  On my latest bike, compact double (little ring 
 is mostly for bailout, but also for trails) I did ride it without a FD and 
 manually shifted between the rings to check RD function, simply because I 
 was waiting for my bargain-price FD to sail across the big pond from UK.  
 Though must admit, I've never had a wide-spaced MB triple (never even liked 
 the looks of them)
 
 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 4:38:45 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
 I mentioned this in a different thread, but it seems like it deserves it’s 
 own thread (and has been discussed here various places before, which is 
 how I knew it might work).
 
 My middle chain ring is now a 38t Raceface narrow wide (only took me four 
 times assembling and disassembling it to get all the recessed and pin bits 
 going the correct ways! Sardonic grin). I am not running a front derailer, 
 so positioning the chain to match the narrow-wide is easy with manual 
 shifting, and I only shift to the 24t when bikepacking singletrack.
 
 Initial test ride (ten miles on singletrack and dirt road, half up, half 
 down, with a few steepish climbs to crank hard on, and lots of rough trail 
 and washboarded fast descents. chain never bounced off (it did with my old 
 rings on the rough stuff). We’ll see how it goes on this weeks bikepacking 
 trip — mostly dirt roads likely won’t need my 24t.
 
 Thanks for opening me up to this possibility. The chain feels more solid 
 than the old ring (but an exact replacement could also feel more solid 
 being new). 
 
 With abandon,
 Patrick
 
 www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
 www.OurHolyConception.org
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple

Got it! Thanks.

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 5:44 PM, Mark Reimer marknrei...@gmail.com wrote:

 No. Every other tooth is wider. Google it, pictures make it easy to
 understand.



 On Mar 23, 2015, at 6:39 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 What is a narrow wide chainring? = wide range double?

 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 5:05 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:

 You can't run a front derailer with a NW chainring--it might allow the
 chain to get off sync and not line up correctly to the narrow/wide teeth.

 I run with a double and no front derailer on a couple of my bikes. Works
 great: riding solo, move it to the 42t ring. Mountain biking or riding with
 kids, move it to the 32t. On my Cross Check, this also makes it easy to
 switch between geared and single speed configurations.


 On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 8:01 AM, Ron Mc bulldog...@gmail.com wrote:

 seems like if you've gone to the trouble to fit a chain to that wide
 range, a FD is a no-brainer.  Especially shifting between the two larger
 rings in terrain when you're moving.  On my latest bike, compact double
 (little ring is mostly for bailout, but also for trails) I did ride it
 without a FD and manually shifted between the rings to check RD function,
 simply because I was waiting for my bargain-price FD to sail across the big
 pond from UK.  Though must admit, I've never had a wide-spaced MB triple
 (never even liked the looks of them)

 On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 4:38:45 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 I mentioned this in a different thread, but it seems like it deserves
 it’s own thread (and has been discussed here various places before, which
 is how I knew it might work).

 My middle chain ring is now a 38t Raceface narrow wide (only took me
 four times assembling and disassembling it to get all the recessed and pin
 bits going the correct ways! Sardonic grin). I am not running a front
 derailer, so positioning the chain to match the narrow-wide is easy with
 manual shifting, and I only shift to the 24t when bikepacking singletrack.

 Initial test ride (ten miles on singletrack and dirt road, half up,
 half down, with a few steepish climbs to crank hard on, and lots of rough
 trail and washboarded fast descents. chain never bounced off (it did with
 my old rings on the rough stuff). We’ll see how it goes on this weeks
 bikepacking trip — mostly dirt roads likely won’t need my 24t.

 Thanks for opening me up to this possibility. The chain feels more
 solid than the old ring (but an exact replacement could also feel more
 solid being new).

 With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*

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 Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

 *
 *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
 circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
 individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

 *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

 *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante

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[RBW] Re: Redlands Strada Rossa 2015

2015-03-23 Thread Bob E

Thanks, Hugh. Maybe next winter the Northeast won't get clobbered with so 
much snow and I'll be in a good-enough shape to tackle that terrain so 
early in the season!  ;-)

Bob

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RE: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

The possibilities are getting eleganter and eleganter…

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of David Banzer
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2015 6:31 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Clementine rear brake cabling -- ideas?

If that's like the one I have, you can put in a threaded housing stop adjuster 
on the underside and run housing straight to the pulley.
David
Chicago

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 4:43:22 PM UTC-5, Tom Harrop wrote:
Yeah, I can live with a clamp on stop and a pulley.

Found this pulley thing in a UK webshop: 
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chrome-seat-bolt-fitting-cable-hanger-with-metal-roller-prod23279/.
 Not a lot of info, but could that be an integrated cable stop at the bottom?
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Re: [RBW] Re: Narrow Wide Chain Ring on Triple