[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Justin Schoop]

The more I look and measure I don't think they will work on my saluki while 
using the nitto mini from rack. I guess I'll have to change to neo retro cantis 
if I want paul brakes. 

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Re: [RBW] PSA: Bikeinsights.com: great geometry resource

[Eric Daume]

I like the concept of this site, but my nit to pick is that things like the
"amount of head tube above the top tube" seems to be standardized. As a
result, bikes with stupid looking extended head tubes (eg, New Albion
Privateer) don't correctly compare the top tube angle.

I'm not sure how to fix this, since this type of detail isn't published,
but it's something I look for in comparing frames. As a tall guy, I want a
tall head tube, but that should be space between the top and down tubes,
not stack-inflating extensions.

Eric

On Wed, May 15, 2019 at 8:53 PM Reid Echols  wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> Mentioned it in another thread but figured I’d replicate here for all and
> sundry:
>
> https://bikeinsights.com/ is a one-stop shop for geometry comparisons
> among a staggering range of bikes and makers, including Riv. I’m not
> affiliated, but I do occasionally ride with one of the founders
> (Dan/@hobocross). It’s saved me from making several impulse purchases, but
> encouraged several others, so use at your own risk...
>
> Reid in Austin
>
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Re: [RBW] PSA: Bikeinsights.com: great geometry resource

[Reid Echols]

Also a tall guy with those concerns! I know they’re constantly trying to work 
with manufacturers to get as much data as they can. I think the long-term plan 
is to build such a useful resource that manufacturers and retailers will have 
incentive to provide complete info. 

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Drw]

if you are using a rack that needs the fork crown hole, yes. it will likely 
be in the way. Ive had them on 2 bikes and the cable directly crosses that 
hole. With a diving board attachment you could likely go over or under with 
a little bending though. 

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[RBW] Re: Rides and activities for FotR / Rivmoot / RBWXXV Rivendell Anniversary Campout / Meetup

[Neil Doran]

I intend to train down from Sacramento area Friday morning, and could 
likely be in Mill Valley by noon and join on the Tam/BoFax portion of the 
ride.

I had floated the idea of a Porcupine/Sherwood Forest/Pine Mtn Truck 
Road/Bolinas Ridge loop for Saturday, but perhaps that is a bit much, 
especially if it is ridden on the way in on Friday.

There is some fun stuff out towards Pt Reyes, such as Inverness Ridge 
(singletrack and doubletrack) between Mt Vision and Limantour 
Road...possibly followed by an out n' back from Bear Valley.

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Adam Leibow]

they're good. buy them

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 4:13:12 PM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Thinking about upgrading to the Paul motolite brakes but would love to 
> hear opinions of them. Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Justin Schoop]

Yeah, my only concern is my rack interfering with the cable that crosses over 
the tire. But I want to keep v brakes instead of switching to cantis.

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[RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I am currently running a pair of R539 brakes on my '83 Trek, and at least 
in the front, they are the limiting factor in fender/tire clearance. Dia 
Compe 610's offer several millimeters of additional clearance over the 
539's. I think if you want maximize clearance with that kind of brake 
reach, you need to go to centerpulls (or have canti posts brazed on).

I have had a front fender accordion on me before, so I like conservative 
clearance with fenders. Others may be more comfortable pushing the limits.

Eamon
Seattle

On Monday, May 13, 2019 at 6:24:28 PM UTC-7, Matt D wrote:
>
> My 61 Roadini is set up with 17mm Alexrims G6000 rims, Panaracer 
> Gravelking 32c tires (which run true to size), and *Tektro R539 brakes*. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[M G]

The planet bike metal 65mm fenders are a perfect fit on the hubbuhhubbuh 
tandem.

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:58:53 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>
> Exactly. Put the panhead bolt head or hex button head inside the fender 
> and the nut on the outside. If you have daruma style stays, buy a $5 
> L-bracket from VO (or the sliding crimp fitting that comes standard with 
> most metal fenders and some plastic fenders, crimp it to the fender or cut 
> it up to make your own L-bracket)  - mount one side to the fender and the 
> other to the daruma bolt (play with the orientation for best appearance. 
> Can also use pop rivets ($4 with coupon for rivet gun, $4.80 for 500 rivets 
> with coupon at Harbor Freight) to attach to fender for maximum clearance 
> (use the aluminum rivets and pound or press them flat). You can also get 
> aluminum angle at Lowes or Home Depot and make really nice aluminum 
> L-brackets with a hacksaw, file and drill. If you have a bench grinder, it 
> goes quicker. With a rat tail file, you can make a squiggly point an the 
> bracket to match your lugs. Boulder Bike used to sell nice L-brackets (may 
> have been Berthouds) , they still have some beautiful diamond shaped fender 
> reinforcements.
>
> The most difficult thing that I am putting fenders on is a Hubbuhubbuh 
> with 2.3 tires and linear brakes. The center stays at the rear have very 
> little side clearance and the linear brake cables are just above the tires. 
> The fenders will need to be cut or narrowed at the center stays and 
> probably cut (or possibly slotted) at the brake cables. Honjo H95s (I 
> believe the SimWorks are the same) are plenty wide enough. They are wide 
> and use two darumas - you just put the darumas to the outside of each side 
> of the fender to avoid the center of the tire, or I could use two 
> L-brackets.
>
> I am also putting H95s on my Bombadil - it has so much clearance to the 57 
> mm G-Ones that nothing special needs to be done.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa, FL
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 1:21:03 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
>> The berthoud fender stays are very nice. They bolt directly to the fender 
>> and you can put the small button head end on the inside. I’ve replaced the 
>> stock stays on longboards with berthoud ones and I think it gives a stiffer 
>> result as well as eliminating the internal hardware that some folks claim 
>> sends water from inside the fender onto your feet. If I ever try metal 
>> fenders I’ll probably want to use berthoud stays regardless of who makes 
>> the fenders. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Chris L]

On mine, the tip of the frame holding the noodle is in front of the 
mounting bolt in the fork crown for my light.  When I pull the brake lever, 
the bolt is completely covered by the noodle frame.

  



On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:43:22 AM UTC-5, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Would the cable and pully at the top get in the way of mounting a nitto 
> mini front rack?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rides and activities for FotR / Rivmoot / RBWXXV Rivendell Anniversary Campout / Meetup

[Joe Bunik]

Neil, a Pine Mountain / BoRidge loops sounds great, let's chat on that
as the weekend gets closer.
=- Joe

On 5/16/19, Neil Doran  wrote:
> I intend to train down from Sacramento area Friday morning, and could
> likely be in Mill Valley by noon and join on the Tam/BoFax portion of the
> ride.
>
> I had floated the idea of a Porcupine/Sherwood Forest/Pine Mtn Truck
> Road/Bolinas Ridge loop for Saturday, but perhaps that is a bit much,
> especially if it is ridden on the way in on Friday.
>
> There is some fun stuff out towards Pt Reyes, such as Inverness Ridge
> (singletrack and doubletrack) between Mt Vision and Limantour
> Road...possibly followed by an out n' back from Bear Valley.
>
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[RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

Yup, dirt drop has that nice straight line economy. Gets the bar up while 
sinking plenty of quill. Who said "Just because you can drive 80 mph and some 
governing body says it's safe, doesn't mean you should"? 
Regardless of who said it, the same is true for quill extension.
-Kai

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[RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[M G]

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 4:44:02 PM UTC-4, M G wrote:
>
> The planet bike metal 65mm fenders are a perfect fit on the hubbuhhubbuh 
> tandem.
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:58:53 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>>
>> Exactly. Put the panhead bolt head or hex button head inside the fender 
>> and the nut on the outside. If you have daruma style stays, buy a $5 
>> L-bracket from VO (or the sliding crimp fitting that comes standard with 
>> most metal fenders and some plastic fenders, crimp it to the fender or cut 
>> it up to make your own L-bracket)  - mount one side to the fender and the 
>> other to the daruma bolt (play with the orientation for best appearance. 
>> Can also use pop rivets ($4 with coupon for rivet gun, $4.80 for 500 rivets 
>> with coupon at Harbor Freight) to attach to fender for maximum clearance 
>> (use the aluminum rivets and pound or press them flat). You can also get 
>> aluminum angle at Lowes or Home Depot and make really nice aluminum 
>> L-brackets with a hacksaw, file and drill. If you have a bench grinder, it 
>> goes quicker. With a rat tail file, you can make a squiggly point an the 
>> bracket to match your lugs. Boulder Bike used to sell nice L-brackets (may 
>> have been Berthouds) , they still have some beautiful diamond shaped fender 
>> reinforcements.
>>
>> The most difficult thing that I am putting fenders on is a Hubbuhubbuh 
>> with 2.3 tires and linear brakes. The center stays at the rear have very 
>> little side clearance and the linear brake cables are just above the tires. 
>> The fenders will need to be cut or narrowed at the center stays and 
>> probably cut (or possibly slotted) at the brake cables. Honjo H95s (I 
>> believe the SimWorks are the same) are plenty wide enough. They are wide 
>> and use two darumas - you just put the darumas to the outside of each side 
>> of the fender to avoid the center of the tire, or I could use two 
>> L-brackets.
>>
>> I am also putting H95s on my Bombadil - it has so much clearance to the 
>> 57 mm G-Ones that nothing special needs to be done.
>>
>> Laing
>> Cocoa, FL
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 1:21:03 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>>> The berthoud fender stays are very nice. They bolt directly to the 
>>> fender and you can put the small button head end on the inside. I’ve 
>>> replaced the stock stays on longboards with berthoud ones and I think it 
>>> gives a stiffer result as well as eliminating the internal hardware that 
>>> some folks claim sends water from inside the fender onto your feet. If I 
>>> ever try metal fenders I’ll probably want to use berthoud stays regardless 
>>> of who makes the fenders. 
>>
>>

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RE: [RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[Laing Conley]

Too narrow for 60mm tires.


Laing Conley


From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com  On 
Behalf Of M G
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2019 4:47 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Subject: [RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?



On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 4:44:02 PM UTC-4, M G wrote:
The planet bike metal 65mm fenders are a perfect fit on the hubbuhhubbuh tandem.

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:58:53 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
Exactly. Put the panhead bolt head or hex button head inside the fender and the 
nut on the outside. If you have daruma style stays, buy a $5 L-bracket from VO 
(or the sliding crimp fitting that comes standard with most metal fenders and 
some plastic fenders, crimp it to the fender or cut it up to make your own 
L-bracket)  - mount one side to the fender and the other to the daruma bolt 
(play with the orientation for best appearance. Can also use pop rivets ($4 
with coupon for rivet gun, $4.80 for 500 rivets with coupon at Harbor Freight) 
to attach to fender for maximum clearance (use the aluminum rivets and pound or 
press them flat). You can also get aluminum angle at Lowes or Home Depot and 
make really nice aluminum L-brackets with a hacksaw, file and drill. If you 
have a bench grinder, it goes quicker. With a rat tail file, you can make a 
squiggly point an the bracket to match your lugs. Boulder Bike used to sell 
nice L-brackets (may have been Berthouds) , they still have some beautiful 
diamond shaped fender reinforcements.

The most difficult thing that I am putting fenders on is a Hubbuhubbuh with 2.3 
tires and linear brakes. The center stays at the rear have very little side 
clearance and the linear brake cables are just above the tires. The fenders 
will need to be cut or narrowed at the center stays and probably cut (or 
possibly slotted) at the brake cables. Honjo H95s (I believe the SimWorks are 
the same) are plenty wide enough. They are wide and use two darumas - you just 
put the darumas to the outside of each side of the fender to avoid the center 
of the tire, or I could use two L-brackets.

I am also putting H95s on my Bombadil - it has so much clearance to the 57 mm 
G-Ones that nothing special needs to be done.

Laing
Cocoa, FL

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 1:21:03 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
The berthoud fender stays are very nice. They bolt directly to the fender and 
you can put the small button head end on the inside. I’ve replaced the stock 
stays on longboards with berthoud ones and I think it gives a stiffer result as 
well as eliminating the internal hardware that some folks claim sends water 
from inside the fender onto your feet. If I ever try metal fenders I’ll 
probably want to use berthoud stays regardless of who makes the fenders.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed gear bike packing

[RichS]

Craig, I am most impressed with the “Rough Stuff” riders.
Thanks for giving them a mention here. Pretty amazing terrain they had to pedal 
over and with hefty loads too. Those were some tough blokes!

Cheers mate!
Rich in ATL

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Drw]

A marks rack’s diving board could be bent at a right angle to hook above or 
below the cable. I’ve done it with a pass and stow rack and marks rack fairly 
easilyusually above the cable I think. 

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[RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Jim S.]

I know fit is paramount, but let's assume fit is not an issue. 

I just replaced a technomic stem with a dirt drop stem. My first reaction is 
that the dirt drop stem is kind of gangly looking. I want to like it. But the 
technomic is more elegant. Do others agree? (Yes I admit this is a first-world 
problem)

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes, Jim, I agree.  I'd never use a Dirt Drop on one of my bikes, for that 
reason.  .  

Dave

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Chris L]

I remember reading somewhere where Grant talks about putting the hole in 
the fork crown in a different location (higher?) than most other bike 
designers.  I don't think there is any way the set-up of the blue bike with 
a rack could work with the motolite on my Hunqapillar. 



On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 5:05:15 PM UTC-5, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Found this while searching online. The brake noodle thing and cable seem 
> to clear that rack which is somewhat similar to the nitto mini. I think I'm 
> going to order them and try to make it work. 
>
> On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 5:41:39 PM UTC-4, Justin Schoop wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, my only concern is my rack interfering with the cable that crosses 
>> over the tire. But I want to keep v brakes instead of switching to cantis.
>
>

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[RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Christopher Cote]

I prefer a dirt drop style stem to a Technomic with more than 3 or 4 inches of 
exposed quill. Seeing a Technomic maxed out looks all wrong to me. Just my 2 
cents.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[sameness]

Controversial. The classic randonneur upsweep gets a No from me. The flare 
gets a Yes from me. The width confounds me.

I say Do It. Bonus points if your stem is black. 

(You sure you don't need one of those zero extension stems? Those bars are 
about four feet wide.)

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:30:06 PM UTC-7, Jim S. wrote:
>
> Jeff, how about dirt drop stem and crust towel rack on a Joe Appaloosa? 
> That's what I'm playing around with.

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[Joe Bernard]

Crust Towel Rack throws the whole thing into the realm of madness. DirtDrop, 
0°, whatever you want, it's madness!

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[sameness]

so much depends
upon

a dirt drop
stem

...with Moustache bars or flared drops? In every case.

...with cruiser or North Road bars? Make your case.

...with porteur or Jitensha bars? Edge case.

...with regular ol' drops? Head case.

Technomicon: The ratio of exposed quill shall not exceed that of the 
horizontal extension by > 5/4. 

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Justin Schoop]

I'm happy with my mini rack/fender/Docena set up. So I went ahead and ordered 
neo retros and canti levers. 

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[RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Joe Bernard]

I'm in the DirtDrop camp. I've ridden lots of maxed out Technomics/Tallux and 
they do the deed, but that big L flying above the saddle never looks right to 
me. 

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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[Justin Schoop]

Technomic all the way.

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Re: [RBW] Aesthetics Issue

[Patrick Moore]

I prefer an upjutter stem to a stem with road angle but with more than say
8 or 9 cm of quill showing. OTOH, on a nice road bike, I'd prefer a nice
road stem to the rather beefy and more industrial looking Dirt Drop.

Me, if the bike were very important to me -- say, a Rivendell -- I'd
consider having nice road-style upjutter made. Salsa used to make them to
custom order, but those were black; I'd want mine chromed or, more likely,
powdercoated in the right color.

On Thu, May 16, 2019 at 7:46 PM Jim S.  wrote:

> I know fit is paramount, but let's assume fit is not an issue.
>
> I just replaced a technomic stem with a dirt drop stem. My first reaction
> is that the dirt drop stem is kind of gangly looking. I want to like it.
> But the technomic is more elegant. Do others agree? (Yes I admit this is a
> first-world problem)
>
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[RBW] Re: Aesthetics Issue

[Jim S.]

Jeff, how about dirt drop stem and crust towel rack on a Joe Appaloosa? That's 
what I'm playing around with.

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[RBW] Re: stack and reach for Riv frames

[Dave Grossman]

>
> Where has this amazing site been all my life (probably on the internet and 
>>> I just didn't know!)
>>>
>>
Thanks Reid! 

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[RBW] Re: stack and reach for Riv frames

[Ash]

Thank you for sharing!

Very, very handy resource.  For starters, it answered my months-long 
question - why I can't seem to get handlebars high enough on my current 
frame, while on another similar size frame I didn't have that problem.


On Thursday, 16 May 2019 00:23:57 UTC+5:30, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> Hi Jim, 
>
> I'll recommend (again) the invaluable https://bikeinsights.com/
>
> Reid in Austin 
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 1:47:43 PM UTC-5, Jim S. wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, I was looking at frame geometry for various Rivs, and other bikes.
>>
>> I can't seem to find stack and reach on the Riv geometry charts. 
>>
>> Does anyone know where this information might be? It seems like a real 
>> helpful way of comparing frames.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Justin Schoop]

Would the cable and pully at the top get in the way of mounting a nitto mini 
front rack?

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Rob Kristoff]

Chris, 
Please let me know if you ever decide to switch to cantis and want to sell the 
motolites.

Rob

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 54.5 MIT AHH

[phil k]

Hi Peter,

Sorry it got confusing real quick. Here is the rundown:

I will sell everything you see in the picture besides saddle for $2300 plus 
bike flights shipping. So grab a saddle, put it on, make some adjustments 
and you are good to go.

Here is the build list, all in all, about $3,800. I'll be getting my local 
bike shop to pack it. 

-MIT AHH frameset, bottom bracket, headset, seatpost
-Nitto Albatross heat treated aluminum handlebars
-Nitto Tallux stem
-Gilles Berthoud leather bar wrap (can include leftover extra)
-Shimano brake levers
-Paul funky monkey front brake hanger
-Nitto Reneherse rinko rear cable hanger
-Paul Racer centermount pair
-Paul polished silver moon unit pair
Riv Silver crankset wide low 38/24 170mm arms
-B IQ-XS dyno front light
-B toplight line small tail light
-B bracket for saddle rail for tail light
-Sehdon fender nuts (pair)
-Nitto lamp bracket right side
-XT Cassette 11-32 9 speed
-XT rear derailleur 772 9 speed
-Shimano front derailleur
-Nitto Marks Rack with extended struts
-Grey buckle strap to reinforce mark's rack to handlebars
-Wald medium basket
-Outer Shell Adventures basket bag in ranger green
-Ultegra bar ends
-SRAM chain
-Shimano and jagwire cabling
-Wheelset - Pacenti Brevet Rims 32h (front and rear), DT double butted 
spokes, front hub is SP dynamo hub, rear hub is white industries T11 spaced 
for 135mm.
-Schwalbe tire tubes
--Panaracer Pasela folding bead (65bx42)

-Phil
Arlington, VA

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:57:34 PM UTC-4, Peter Seterdahl wrote:
>
> Hi Phil,
> Very nice bike.
> So are you offering the bike as photographed, with saddle and peddles and 
> wheels?
> If so, what is the price?
> Thanks, Peter
>
> On Wed, May 15, 2019 at 2:35 PM phil k > 
> wrote:
>
>> Buyer of the wheels backed out.
>>
>> Wheels are Pacenti Brevet rims, SP dyno hub front, white industries T11 
>> rear spaced to 135mm, dt double butted spokes, both wheels are 32h.
>>
>> I can add the wheels to the complete build for $425. I can add the wheels 
>> to the frame set for $475.
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 12:44:55 PM UTC-4, phil k wrote:
>>>
>>> Some people have asked if I could sell complete. I can sell everything 
>>> but wheels, saddle, and pedals. I can pack everything with my LBS so that 
>>> you will only have to get a wheel set, saddle, pedals, and some tire tubes. 
>>>
>>> Here is the rest of the build list, all in all, about $3,100 worth of 
>>> parts for $1900 plus bike flights shipping. I'll be getting my LBS to pack 
>>> it.
>>>
>>> -MIT AHH frameset, bottom bracket, headset, seatpost
>>> -Nitto Albatross heat treated aluminum handlebars
>>> -Nitto Tallux stem
>>> -Gilles Berthoud leather bar wrap (can include leftover extra)
>>> -Shimano brake levers
>>> -Paul funky monkey front brake hanger
>>> -Nitto Reneherse rinko rear cable hanger
>>> -Paul Racer centermount pair
>>> -Paul polished silver moon unit pair
>>> -Panaracer Pasela folding bead (65bx42)
>>> Riv Silver crankset wide low 38/24 170mm arms
>>> -B IQ-XS dyno front light
>>> -B toplight line small tail light
>>> -B bracket for saddle rail for tail light
>>> -Sehdon fender nuts (pair)
>>> -Nitto lamp bracket right side
>>> -XT Cassette 11-32 9 speed
>>> -XT rear derailleur 772 9 speed
>>> -Shimano front derailleur
>>> -Nitto Marks Rack with extended struts
>>> -Grey buckle strap to reinforce mark's rack to handlebars
>>> -Wald medium basket
>>> -Outer Shell Adventures basket bag in ranger green
>>> -Ultegra bar ends
>>> -SRAM chain
>>> -Shimano and jagwire cabling
>>>
>>> -Phil
>>> Arlington, VA
>>> - show quoted text -
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 11:03:56 AM UTC-4, phil k wrote:

 [image: IMG_20190514_185151.jpg]


 On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 11:03:32 AM UTC-4, phil k wrote:
>
> Pics of when it was built up yesterday
>
> [image: IMG_20190514_185142.jpg]
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: nitto rbw51 top rack

[jamin orrall]

the rack is now sold. 

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[phil k]

Paul motolites are very powerful brakes. I had them on my Hunqapillar a 
couple of years ago. It's one of the most powerful mechanical brakes I've 
used. The response is very immediate, easy to set up. and very robust.

The flipside, when you brake it engages very quickly, giving a grabby feel. 
This happened even on my polished Atlas rims.

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 7:13:12 PM UTC-4, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Thinking about upgrading to the Paul motolite brakes but would love to 
> hear opinions of them. Thanks!

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[RBW] Compare pair of Ortlieb Rollers to Rivendell Bagabond

[Joe Bernard]

My completely subjective opinion as the new owner of a BaggaBond and no longer 
drinker of the beers: You'll have all that room if you unload the bottles from 
the box. I think the box would take up all the space otherwise. 

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[RBW] Compare pair of Ortlieb Rollers to Rivendell Bagabond

[Patrick Moore]

1526 ci versus 1550 ci.

Has anyone used both? If so, can you tell me which carries more groceries?
I don't mean theoretically; at the check out, which can carry more when
stuff is just shoved in quickly?

I know I can carry a 12-pack of Sierra Nevada in 1 Roller and add gal milk
plus all sorts of other things to the other side; can I carry a 12 pack in
the Bagabond with approx 750 ci of easily accessible grocery space left for
gal milk, 2 loaves bread, bag potato chips?

Thanks.

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---
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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Clayton.sf]

I think this may also have something to do with the levers I used (Tektro 
linear drop levers), but the "grabbyness" made them almost scary offroad 
when I needed to slow down a little but not stop. You hit a bump which 
caused hands squeezing the lever just a tad more and the wheels would 
temporarily lock up. Never crashed because of it but did switch back to 
cantis after a few sketchy incidents. I really like the mini motos which 
exhibit none of the "on/off" characteristics for me but offer excellent 
power when needed and plenty of modulations to control speed (tire choice 
is more limited though). Again, my experience with the Motolites may have 
been lever related and could likely be further changed with different pads 
(I used the stock thinlines).

Clayton Scott
HBG, CA





 

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:11:50 AM UTC-7, phil k wrote:
>
> Paul motolites are very powerful brakes. I had them on my Hunqapillar a 
> couple of years ago. It's one of the most powerful mechanical brakes I've 
> used. The response is very immediate, easy to set up. and very robust.
>
> The flipside, when you brake it engages very quickly, giving a grabby 
> feel. This happened even on my polished Atlas rims.
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 7:13:12 PM UTC-4, Justin Schoop wrote:
>>
>> Thinking about upgrading to the Paul motolite brakes but would love to 
>> hear opinions of them. Thanks!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul motolite reviews?

[Kieran J]

What others have said. By far the most powerful brakes amongst my bikes. 
They have put me over the handlebars at least once due to their brute power 
(and user error on my part).

KJ


On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 4:13:12 PM UTC-7, Justin Schoop wrote:
>
> Thinking about upgrading to the Paul motolite brakes but would love to 
> hear opinions of them. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed gear bike packing

[Daniel M]

The moment I saw "fixie bikepacking" written as a joke by Bikesnob (whose 
writing I love), my first thought was: "You city people have got to get more 
imaginative than THAT! Out West we HAVE fixie-bikepacking. In the snow. One a 
Rivendell converted to horizontal dropouts. Wearing boiled wool and cotton 
fishnet." Truth is wilder and more interesting than fiction in almost every 
case.

I must admit that the Deacon's posts here were part of the nudge that motivated 
me to build a 26" fixed wheel for an unused Troll frame / front wheel / most 
parts I had lying around and assembled into something I'd be comfortable 
locking up anywhere. It's been really great riding fixed from time to time 
after briefly dabbling about 10 years ago. 

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed gear bike packing

[Daniel M]

Thank you for that photo.

Wide tires, wide rims, drop bars at a reasonable height, and a balanced load. 
It seems to get forgotten and rediscovered over time.

I will stick with my Rohloff for touring and more upright bars if the going 
gets rough enough, however, and keep my fixie riding around town for the time 
being...

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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