Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Virden Clark Beckman]

Coat the part where the wire goes inside if it is a crimp on connector,
this is probably where the most cupric oxide has formed if this is the
method used to build your system. The better you can seal out the air
the longer it will last without oxidizing, if you are going to make new
connections to the wires like replace the end, put vaseline inside
before you crimp - this makes a good air seal, the condom gives some
physical protection and when someone opens the cover they will probably
begin to luagh and you will know who your unpaid apprentice is quickly.

Tim Shephard wrote:
> 
> These are not car type batteries.  They have a bolt through terminal with a
> lug for the wire connection.
> 
> So, am I to take the lug off and clean it with a toothbrush and baking
> soda/water solution, then lightly coat the entire terminal (even where it
> makes contact with the battery post), and the battery post with the
> petroleum jelly?
> 
> Next after reassembled, coat the entire terminal/post with more jelly?
> 
> Just making sure I got this right.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Tim
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Virden Clark Beckman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion
> 
> > It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
> > while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak in
> > baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a kids
> > bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning into
> > the threads. Once you get things cleaned up apply vaseline, pure
> > petroleum jelly no coagulants or colorants, wipe some on the underside
> > of the terminals and once tightened in place wipe a little extra over
> > the top - now the fun part. To be sure nobody has been doing off-hour
> > experiments place a condom over each one to further slow the oxidation,
> > I am imagining a whole new thread to this part - but the idea is
> > keep-it-simply-simple. Forget the extra thread on color, scent and all
> > that nonsense.
> >
> > Tim Shephard wrote:
> > >
> > > A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the
> battery
> > > terminals.
> > >
> > > What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
> > > keep this from happening again?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > -Tim
> > >
> >
> > --
> > 73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
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-- 
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD

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Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions]

[JOHN MACKEY]

> Mike Morris wrote:
> > Yeah, most of them wrong, or "it's out of stock", or "we don't carry
> > that any more"

Recently, I went in to RS for a simple device I knew they had.  Of course, the
worker there met me a few steps after walking in the door to ask how he could
help.  I told him what I wanted, & he said they didn't carry that anymore. 
Then I went looking on their racks & found several.

RS sorta reminds me of Les Schwab tires in the Pacific Northwest, as they both
have their employees come running up to greet you like your favorite pet dog. 
The typical RS employee knows about the same of electronics as Les Schwab & my
dog, too!!

In the 1980's, when I was in college, I applied for a pre-christmas time job
at RS. (I figured it would pay the bills until I found a real job) I was
interviewed, & later received a letter stating that I was not what they were
looking for in employees at RS.  Looking back on it, that was probably a
compliment.  I was soon hired by a FM broadcaster for engineering.





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Tim Shephard]

These are not car type batteries.  They have a bolt through terminal with a
lug for the wire connection.

So, am I to take the lug off and clean it with a toothbrush and baking
soda/water solution, then lightly coat the entire terminal (even where it
makes contact with the battery post), and the battery post with the
petroleum jelly?

Next after reassembled, coat the entire terminal/post with more jelly?

Just making sure I got this right.

Thanks

-Tim

- Original Message - 
From: "Virden Clark Beckman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion


> It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
> while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak in
> baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a kids
> bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning into
> the threads. Once you get things cleaned up apply vaseline, pure
> petroleum jelly no coagulants or colorants, wipe some on the underside
> of the terminals and once tightened in place wipe a little extra over
> the top - now the fun part. To be sure nobody has been doing off-hour
> experiments place a condom over each one to further slow the oxidation,
> I am imagining a whole new thread to this part - but the idea is
> keep-it-simply-simple. Forget the extra thread on color, scent and all
> that nonsense.
>
> Tim Shephard wrote:
> >
> > A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the
battery
> > terminals.
> >
> > What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
> > keep this from happening again?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > -Tim
> >
>
> -- 
> 73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




 

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Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter]

[Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR]

I know how to get rid of the 'snap crackle pop ' 

Stop putting milk on the repeater :)

Sorry I could not help my self 

have a good day 

Rick



On 6 Jan 2004 at 0:24, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Its suppressing how well the 2 meter repeater works under this high
> intensity RF field. Everything is normally  and great for about 3
> weeks then the snap crackle pop comes on for about a week then back to
> working well.  I am a guest on this tower and appreciate the ability
> to be there. The location was offered and I didn't want to be
> unappreciative.  So I don't say too much about the crackling problem.
> Considering the high noise floor and the 1000 feet of 7/8 hard line,
> the repeater does pretty well, if only I could get rid of the snap
> crackle pop problem.  Been this way for many years. Gary K2UQ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> 


Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS
Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR
Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120
Lakefield Ont Canada





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR]

yes Virden is right  .. KISS 

I was going to write the same message but it has been said .. 
I use this on ly alarm system batts and in my cars .. but I don't use 
the condom . that would look really funny under the hood and in the 
alarm pannels .. ummm maybe I should put it in the pannels .. umm 
still in there wrappers .. hehe =:)

All the best 

Rick

On 6 Jan 2004 at 0:15, Virden Clark Beckman wrote:

> It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
> while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak
> in baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a
> kids bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning
> into the threads. Once you get things cleaned up apply vaseline, pure
> petroleum jelly no coagulants or colorants, wipe some on the underside
> of the terminals and once tightened in place wipe a little extra over
> the top - now the fun part. To be sure nobody has been doing off-hour
> experiments place a condom over each one to further slow the
> oxidation, I am imagining a whole new thread to this part - but the
> idea is keep-it-simply-simple. Forget the extra thread on color, scent
> and all that nonsense.
> 
> Tim Shephard wrote:
> > 
> > A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the
> > battery terminals.
> > 
> > What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on
> > them to keep this from happening again?
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > -Tim
> > 
> 
> -- 
> 73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> 
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS
Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR
Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120
Lakefield Ont Canada





 

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Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter]

[albemarle7]

Its suppressing how well the 2 meter repeater works under this high intensity 
RF field. Everything is normally  and great for about 3 weeks then the snap 
crackle pop comes on for about a week then back to working well.  I am a guest 
on this tower and appreciate the ability to be there. The location was offered 
and I didn't want to be unappreciative.  So I don't say too much about the 
crackling problem. Considering the high noise floor and the 1000 feet of 7/8 
hard line, the repeater does pretty well, if only I could get rid of the snap 
crackle pop problem.  Been this way for many years.
Gary K2UQ



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Virden Clark Beckman]

It will be hard to do and maintain the system in battery working order
while you work on it, the easiest way to clean the terminals is soak in
baking soda/water solution - you may have to swirl them around in a kids
bucket of the mixture to activate the soda enhancing the cleaning into
the threads. Once you get things cleaned up apply vaseline, pure
petroleum jelly no coagulants or colorants, wipe some on the underside
of the terminals and once tightened in place wipe a little extra over
the top - now the fun part. To be sure nobody has been doing off-hour
experiments place a condom over each one to further slow the oxidation,
I am imagining a whole new thread to this part - but the idea is
keep-it-simply-simple. Forget the extra thread on color, scent and all
that nonsense.

Tim Shephard wrote:
> 
> A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the battery
> terminals.
> 
> What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
> keep this from happening again?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Tim
> 

-- 
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Ken Arck]

At 08:56 PM 1/5/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the battery
>terminals.>
>What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
>keep this from happening again?

Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter]

[JOHN MACKEY]

Why is your antenna so very close to 45KW of RF?  That must be causing you
problems!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
SNIP
> been through many of them.  My antenna is in a very high RF 45 kW  FM 
> broadcast field created by two FM stations only 5 feet away from my
> antenna. A few 
SNIP





 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery terminal corrosion

[skipp025]

Hi Tim, 

After you clean the terminals with water 
and a plastic brush, seal them with NOCO 
NCP-2 spray (red pickling oil type spray) 
ordered and sold through most auto parts 
stores in a Spray Can. I order the spray 
can large size through the Napa Auto Parts 
Chain. There is also a very small single 
battery package stocked by most auto 
parts stores.  

Same stuff you see in cloth rings under 
auto battery terminals (sold in little 
over priced packages). 

If you use the spray, hard to reach areas 
are easily reached sealed off from oxygen.

cheers

skipp 

skipp025 at yahoo.com 

> "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the
battery
> terminals.
> 
> What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
> keep this from happening again?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -Tim




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

At 09:11 PM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:

>Hey Mike can you describe or give me a part number
>on that RS Appliance?
>Dave
>I might like to look into that
>although they will probably be out of stock.



Price has come down since I bought mine...
I remember paying about $20 a few years ago, or maybe
the store price is higher than the web site price.

This is a stock item in my local stores.

It has a high impedance input, just parallel it across the
audio line from your receiver to the controller then from
the controller output to your transmitter.
If you have any noise generated by the controller you will
be able to tell.

The big question is this:
If you unplug the jumper cable from the circulator and the
duplexer and place a dummy load onto the circulator (and
place a second load on the duplexer port).  Then key the
transmitter and see if you have the noise.  I'll bet that you
have duplex noise.  See the web page at
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/cracking.html

This might be useful too:


Mike

>- Original Message -
>From: "Mike Morris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:30 PM
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater
>
>Have you plugged a audio monitor amp into the controller's TX output?
>Radio Shack has a half-decent one for about $20




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[Mike Morris]

At 10:33 AM 1/5/04 -0500, you wrote:

>Mike Morris wrote:
>
> > "You've got questions, we've got answers!"
> >
> > Yeah, most of them wrong, or "it's out of stock", or "we don't carry
> > that any more"
> >
> > Mike
> >
>
>"By the way, how's your cell phone service?"
>
>Jim

Yeah, I've had that response.  My response is "No, I don't want
Nextel, it's the most oversubscribed system in the area, during
the week you can't get a dial tone from before 5 to after 6pm.
When do you plan on fixing that?"

Blank stare.

Mike WA6ILQ




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Info needed - 220 duplexers and tuning stubs

[skipp025]

Kim, 

If no one else replies before the 
weekend, drop me an Email. I have one 
in storage at my repeater site that I 
can measure the rods for you. 

I always thought it novel that Wacom 
and Sinclair had plunger rods to do 
what others manage right on the probe 
(bottom side of the coaxial connector) 

cheers
skipp 

skipp025 at yahoo.com 

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Would anybody out there have a set 
> of  Wacom's WP-625 duplexers?
> I am especially looking for the 
> model with the tuning stubs.
> No - not to buy!  I need some info - 
> the length of the tuning stub(s)!
> It seems a previous owner of my 
> duplexers trimmed the stub!  OUCH!
> To make matters worse, when TXRX 
> took over Wacom, they only have 
> information concerning the latest 
> Wacom products.  
> That is, 625's WITHOUT a tuning stub!
> 
> 73,
> ...Kim - WG8S




 

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[Repeater-Builder] Battery terminal corrosion

[Tim Shephard]

A 911 console that I maintain has developed some corrosion on the battery
terminals.

What is the best way to clean the terminals and what do I put on them to
keep this from happening again?

Thanks

-Tim




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter

[albemarle7]

In a message dated 1/5/2004 8:22:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/cracking.html >>
Kevin,
 I read your and WA6ILQ suggestions on crackling problems.  Seems we have 
been through many of them.  My antenna is in a very high RF 45 kW  FM 
broadcast field created by two FM stations only 5 feet away from my antenna. A 
few 
years ago we were able to take the SuperStationMaster down and one of the 
interconnecting joints was ready to break.  A touch of the finger finished the 
job.  
We replaced the section and silver soldered it and all the others.  We also 
installed a support post on top to prevent it from moving. Its hard to test 
anything because access to the high intensity RF field area at the 850 foot 
level 
is not allowed. Have a brand new antenna waiting months to be installed as an 
add on job when some riggers are able to go up the tower. Glad to hear I was 
on the correct troubleshooting path. Complete repeater and duplexer have been 
swapped out. Thanks guys for  your suggestions.
Gary K2UQ
   



 

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[Repeater-Builder] Typical PA Stages, 50 ohms in and out.

[skipp025]

> Adi Linden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > If your 110 PA has a 45 way driver 
> > stage ahead of it. Bypass the 110 
> > watt output section and run the 
> > driver back at normal output. 
: 

: Now that's something where I'd rather 
: be following someones footsteps. I 
: am really not comfortble altering the 
: PA from it's original design. Anyone 

There is no design alteration, lets 
use a Micor PA as a typical example. 
Each amplification stage has 50 ohm 
connections. The more common construction 
is to just add stages until you reach 
the desired power level. 

Many of the lower rated PA's are the 
same or similar stages less the high 
power final section(s). It is very 
common to find the same 45 watt driver 
stage in low and high power versions. 

The fly in the soup is the power control 
board, there might be issues with adding 
high power stages to a low power pa which 
arrives with the large heat sink. But it 
can and has been done without harm. A 
little control board homework is probably 
required to allow for an increased the 
power level (added additional stages).

: has some proven instructions on how to 
: do that?

Most of the manuals indicate that each 
stage has 50 ohm in/out, amplifier testing 
often relies on the ability to isolate 
and check specific stages for proper op.

: I guess an alternative would be to bolt 
: a 50W board and PA into a 110W 
: chassis. That would keep the original 
: PA design intact but take advantage 
: of the larger chassis of a 110W Mitrek. 

The same type 50 watt board in the MSR 
from Canada is rated for 30 and 40 watt 
operation. I can easily get 50 to 55 
watts and have "hotter" devices which 
output near 60 watts.  I run them all 
day every day at 45 watts with no trouble. 

> > I'm still trying to figure out how you 110 watt 
> > mitrek people keep the in cabinet desense from 
> > becomming a problem, not to mention the heat build 
> > up without serious air movement past the heat sink. 
> 
: Desense hasn't been a problem at all even 
: at rated power. 

I would honestly have to see that 
demonstrated to believe it. It's a 
great chassis, but 110 watts is a 
lot of beef in a small box. 


: I haven't looked at the heat 
: generated inside the PA compartment 
: at all. Not sure if that will 
: be a problem at extended keydown. 

A local ham as a 110w mitrek in 
repeater service with two (very 
noisy) fans mounted. With moderate 
keydown times, the heatsinks still 
run hot, almost too hot to touch. 

> > Two mitreks side by side might 
> > be overkill, but 
> > a better tx preformer. 
> 
: My goal really wasn't high power 
: but reliable operation at low power. 

The lower power mitreks might be 
a viable second choice.

: Given the large heatsink, etc, I 
: thought that radio was a good choice. 
: Didn't learn about all these 
: issues until after I bought a 
: bunch of the  radios...

Aside from our conversation, I would 
like to find at least two 110 watt 
mitreks (UHF) for a project. They 
still go for good money on Ebay. 
Unless you paid too much, you should 
have no problem selling them. 

: Adi

cheers Adi

skipp 

skipp025 at yahoo.com 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[Mike Perryman]

In Stafford, VA the freq is 109.275...I use a VX-5.  As you get close 
to the leak, you will need to remove the antenna.

mike

At 08:02 PM 01/05/04 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Neil McKie wrote:
>
> >  Question for those of you who are currently familiar with the
> > cable companies technical operations these days.
> >
> >  What frequencies are the cable companies using for field leakage
> > testing?
> >
>
>157.250 or channel "G" is very common.
>
> >  Might be handy to know if we, the radio people community, are to
> > deal with the cable companies leakage problems.
> >
>
>Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
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K5JMP
www.k5jmp.net





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Mike Perryman]

Thanks Mike,

You hit the nail right on the head.  Yes, the TX element does have two caps 
in parallel.  RX element walked right in...   no problem there.  I have 
four sets of elements to choose from, and I will choose more carefully next 
time.  I do remember seeing a hand scrawled print being posted somewhere 
about a year ago...  just haven't located it yet.
The repeater is sitting in an out building (my shack) on back property 
line...  no mountains around here!!
Thank you sir, and I will let you know how it goes..

73's
Mike

At 06:00 PM 01/05/04 -0800, you wrote:
>The only time I'll recrystal an element is if it's not going on a hilltop.
>
>That said, look inside the element and see if there is a fixed cap
>in parallel with the crystal.  If there is one, remove it carefully and
>measure the freq again.  It will probably be just right.
>
>If you found two caps, and removed both, it will probably be too
>high, and you need to put one back.  In the 8 Mitrek TX elements
>I've recrystaled I've found a mix of none, one and two caps.  The
>ones with two caps have always been too low and needed one
>removed.  The ones with none I've sometimes had to add one.
>
>Your mileage may vary.
>
>Hot tip: be very careful in removing the caps - if the caps get
>too hot they "sweat" - they get real shiny with some kind of a
>fluid on the surface - and the caps get unstable and the elements
>end up drifting.  I've had to replace the "sweated" caps with red-dip
>silver micas to cure the drift and those caps are getting hard to find.
>
>And if anybody has traced out the schematic of a Mitrek TX or RX
>(or both)element I'd love to have a copy of the schematic to put on
>the Mitrek page at www.repeater-builder.com
>
>Mike WA6ILQ
>
>At 04:13 PM 1/5/04 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Yes, I am aware...
> >I ordered the "ity bity metal cans" from ICM furnishing all required info...
> >Present freq, desired freq, radio model number and channel element model
> >number.
> >As it is only temporary solution (in a controlled environment) I passed on
> >the "full boat" order.
> >
> >   Any other input?
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >At 11:25 AM 01/05/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> > >This you are not going to do "on the cheap".
> > >If you were talking about a compression
> > >mount (FT-243,etc - remember those guys?),
> > >you could either grind or etch it to the desired
> > >frequency.  These days (for the last 40 years),
> > >our crystals come in ity bity cans.  They mount
> > >on wires that are soldered to the plating on each
> > >of the flat sides.  Unless you have the equipment
> > >to re-plate the crystal after you have etched it to
> > >your frequency (only works to raise the frequency),
> > >you are dead in the water before you start.
> > >Bite the bullet, and get a pro crystal shop to do it
> > >right.
> > >
> > >Happy New Year, one and all,
> > >- Original Message -
> > >From: "Mike Perryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >To: 
> > >Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 AM
> > >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread
> > >
> > >
> > > > Good morning to all,
> > > > I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel 
> capacitance to
> > > > warp a crystal onto freq...
> > > > I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct 
> me to
> > > > some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive,
> > > > found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
> > > > I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but 
> decided to
> > > > go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning
> > >experience.
> > > > I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... 
> this
> > > > will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
> > > > There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being
> > > > designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Mike
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -
> > > >Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
> > > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
> > > >http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
> > > >K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
> > > >(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
> > > > -
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> > > >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> > > >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >To visit your group on the web, go 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[Neil McKie]

  So far, I have no idea.  I have never used or measured it. 

  Neil - WA6KLA 

Don wrote:
> 
> >  Neil  can You tell Me if  Any thing loss using the Z-Matcher.  
> > Compared to Cable ?
> 
> Thanks Don KA9QJG
> 
> 
>



 

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[Repeater-Builder] Info needed - 220 duplexers

[whensley11]

Would anybody out there have a set of Wacom's WP-625 duplexers?
I am especially looking for the model with the tuning stubs.

No - not to buy!  I need some info - the length of the tuning stub(s)!

It seems a previous owner of my duplexers trimmed the stub!  OUCH!

To make matters worse, when TXRX took over Wacom, they only have information 
concerning the latest Wacom products.  That is, 625's WITHOUT a tuning stub!

73,
...Kim - WG8S



 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] DB Products Duplexer Conversion

[Ralph Hogan]

Hey Gary,

I was the one that promised. Just got the info in the mail today (thanks!)
and scanned it all in.
I created a small webpage pointing to all of the info you sent, plus some
more on the individual BP or notch cans which make up the DB-4046 and
DB-4048.
http://www.qsl.net/w4xe/db4048.htm

73's
Ralph  W4XE

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 9:26 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB Products Duplexer Conversion


Bob Parker  AC4RX,
I have a complete copy of the DB4048 factory modification to 2 meter ham
band on its way to you in Florida.  Its leaving 1st class this morning from
Trenton, NJ.
It will have probably more info that you want to know about the DB4048...hi.
I have a list of those who asked for the info and everything is Xeroxed and
ready to go. One of the requesters promised to post it in a web site which
for
all those interested. That would be great.
73,
Gary  K2UQ





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[Don]

>  Neil  can You tell Me if  Any thing loss using the Z-Matcher.  Compared 
> to Cable ?


Thanks Don KA9QJG





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

[NØATH]

Hey Mike can you describe or give me a part number on that RS Appliance?
Dave 
I might like to look into that
although they will probably be out of stock.


- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Morris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

Have you plugged a audio monitor amp into the controller's TX output?
Radio Shack has a half-decent one for about $20




 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[Kevin King]

If memory is still working, the micor UHF mobile only uses the rx element
and it is referenced for xmit.

-Original Message-
From: Don [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 8:04 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element


Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try and find
My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the Transmit Element is
the same one used in the Micor Unified repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I
need it in the Rptr.

Thanks Don KA9QJG







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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[Neil McKie]

  Thank you Kevin, 

  Neil 


Kevin Custer wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Neil McKie wrote:
> 
> >  Question for those of you who are currently familiar with the
> > cable companies technical operations these days.
> >
> >  What frequencies are the cable companies using for field leakage
> > testing?
> >
> 
> 157.250 or channel "G" is very common.
> 
> >  Might be handy to know if we, the radio people community, are to
> > deal with the cable companies leakage problems.
> >
> 
> Kevin
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Kevin King]

First try another set of elements. The ones you are trying to use may have
been "warped" to get the other freq set.

If not a few puff across the warping cap should get you right on.

-Original Message-
From: Mike Perryman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 4:13 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread


Yes, I am aware...
I ordered the "ity bity metal cans" from ICM furnishing all required info...
Present freq, desired freq, radio model number and channel element model
number.
As it is only temporary solution (in a controlled environment) I passed on
the "full boat" order.

  Any other input?

Mike

At 11:25 AM 01/05/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>This you are not going to do "on the cheap".
>If you were talking about a compression
>mount (FT-243,etc - remember those guys?),
>you could either grind or etch it to the desired
>frequency.  These days (for the last 40 years),
>our crystals come in ity bity cans.  They mount
>on wires that are soldered to the plating on each
>of the flat sides.  Unless you have the equipment
>to re-plate the crystal after you have etched it to
>your frequency (only works to raise the frequency),
>you are dead in the water before you start.
>Bite the bullet, and get a pro crystal shop to do it
>right.
>
>Happy New Year, one and all,
>- Original Message -
>From: "Mike Perryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 AM
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread
>
>
> > Good morning to all,
> > I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel capacitance
to
> > warp a crystal onto freq...
> > I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct me
to
> > some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive,
> > found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
> > I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but decided
to
> > go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning
>experience.
> > I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... this
> > will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
> > There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being
> > designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> >Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
> >http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
> >K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
> >(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
> > -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
>
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-
   Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
   http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
   K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
   (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
-






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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

[Mike Morris]

At 02:31 PM 1/5/04 -0500, you wrote:

>Ok Guys and Gals
>
>I have a little problem here
>I am getting a crap load of noise off my repeater

Can you describe the noise?

>I have a Linkcomm Moto squelch
>and a RLC2A controller
>
>with a good ol Harris radio
>
>now here is the problem
>
>when I key the radio  I can talk and an bad noise follows then the tail
>drops
>
>will I thought it was the repeater BUT I look at the squelch and the
>light goes out after I unkey but the noise is still there  or a couple of
>sec.

Same length as the tail?


>I thouht it was where the repeater is so I added PL
>
>again PL and COS drop and still have that darn noise

PL only hides problems - it doesn't fix them.

You have to remember that PL (or DPL) doesn't solve interference issues,
it just covers them up.   Sure, the RX won't unsquelch if it is requiring a
tone but the interference is still on the channel so what improvement have
you really gained?

You add PL to keep your system free of users of other repeaters whose
coverage overlaps yours.

>could this be coming from my power supply ?

Have you put a voltmeter on the output?
or an oscilloscope?

>via the controller ?

Have you plugged a audio monitor amp into the controller's TX output?
Radio Shack has a half-decent one for about $20

>the radio controller PL pannel are all on the same PS

No problem there as long as you have them decoupled.

>every thing is drawing about 12 amps out of a 30 amp PS
>
>any one have any idea what might be going on ??

Read the debugging articles on the antenna systems
page at www.repeater-builder.com

>Thanks
>
>
>Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS
>Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR
>Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120
>Lakefield Ont Canada




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[Neil McKie]

  ... see below ... 

mch wrote:
> 
> No it is not. In fact, there is no TX element
> in most UHF Micor mobiles. (perhaps not in any)
> 
> The TX is synthesized based on the RX channel element. 

  Not quite ... 

  The transmitter takes the receiver injection signal and mixes it 
 with a modulated offset crystal to generate the transmit signal. 

  In the 450 - 470 MHz range, the crystal is on 16.7 MHz for access 
 to repeaters and a 11.7 MHz crystal for simplex operation.  

  
> However, I think the UHF base uses the
> same TX element as a VHF Micor mobile. 

  Again, not quite. 

  Hope the above helps, 

  Neol - WA6KLA 

 
> Joe M.
> 
> Don wrote:
> >
> > Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try and find
> > My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the Transmit Element is
> > the same one used in the Micor Unified repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I
> > need it in the Rptr.
> >
> > Thanks Don KA9QJG
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[Neil McKie]

  The UHF (450 MHz) Micor mobile uses one Channel Element for both 
 transmit and receive - KXN1024A 

  The Base / Repeater Micor station uses a KXN1024A for receive ... 
 and a KXN1052A Channel Element for transmit. 

  It is currently +3.6 degrees here ... outside of course ... 

  Hope this helps and 

  73, 

  Neil - WA6KLA 

Don wrote:
> 
> Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try 
> and find My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the 
> Transmit Element is the same one used in the Micor Unified 
> repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I need it in the Rptr.
> 
> Thanks Don KA9QJG
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[Richard]

Heheh... Once in a while I tell them what I'm looking for just so I can see
that priceless blank look! Actually one of then knew what silicon heat sink
compound was - I couldn't find it, and it turned out that they were out, but
another store nearby had it.

Richard, N7TGB

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 2:11 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions


>The two responses I've seen most often are the blank stares and >"we used
ta carry that."
>
>Richard, N7TGB

Actually it's "We've got questions, you've got answers".

Example: I walk into a RS store.  I'm asked "can I help you find something?"
I respond "No thanks, I know what I'm looking for".  Happens all the time.

Bob NO6B






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Re: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Mike Morris]

The only time I'll recrystal an element is if it's not going on a hilltop.

That said, look inside the element and see if there is a fixed cap
in parallel with the crystal.  If there is one, remove it carefully and
measure the freq again.  It will probably be just right.

If you found two caps, and removed both, it will probably be too
high, and you need to put one back.  In the 8 Mitrek TX elements
I've recrystaled I've found a mix of none, one and two caps.  The
ones with two caps have always been too low and needed one
removed.  The ones with none I've sometimes had to add one.

Your mileage may vary.

Hot tip: be very careful in removing the caps - if the caps get
too hot they "sweat" - they get real shiny with some kind of a
fluid on the surface - and the caps get unstable and the elements
end up drifting.  I've had to replace the "sweated" caps with red-dip
silver micas to cure the drift and those caps are getting hard to find.

And if anybody has traced out the schematic of a Mitrek TX or RX
(or both)element I'd love to have a copy of the schematic to put on
the Mitrek page at www.repeater-builder.com

Mike WA6ILQ

At 04:13 PM 1/5/04 -0500, you wrote:

>Yes, I am aware...
>I ordered the "ity bity metal cans" from ICM furnishing all required info...
>Present freq, desired freq, radio model number and channel element model
>number.
>As it is only temporary solution (in a controlled environment) I passed on
>the "full boat" order.
>
>   Any other input?
>
>Mike
>
>At 11:25 AM 01/05/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >This you are not going to do "on the cheap".
> >If you were talking about a compression
> >mount (FT-243,etc - remember those guys?),
> >you could either grind or etch it to the desired
> >frequency.  These days (for the last 40 years),
> >our crystals come in ity bity cans.  They mount
> >on wires that are soldered to the plating on each
> >of the flat sides.  Unless you have the equipment
> >to re-plate the crystal after you have etched it to
> >your frequency (only works to raise the frequency),
> >you are dead in the water before you start.
> >Bite the bullet, and get a pro crystal shop to do it
> >right.
> >
> >Happy New Year, one and all,
> >- Original Message -
> >From: "Mike Perryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: 
> >Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 AM
> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread
> >
> >
> > > Good morning to all,
> > > I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel capacitance to
> > > warp a crystal onto freq...
> > > I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct me to
> > > some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive,
> > > found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
> > > I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but decided to
> > > go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning
> >experience.
> > > I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... this
> > > will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
> > > There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being
> > > designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Mike
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -
> > >Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
> > >[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
> > >http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
> > >K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
> > >(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
> > > -
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
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>-
>Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
>http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
>K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
>(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
>-
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

At 07:03 PM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:

>Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try and find
>My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the Transmit Element is
>the same one used in the Micor Unified repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I
>need it in the Rptr.
>
>Thanks Don KA9QJG

The Micor UHF mobile used a KNX1024 element in the RX and an offset
oscillator and mixer function allowed the exciter to generate it's signal
from that.

The Micor UHF base and repeater stations used a high band exciter and
a chassis-mounted tripler in the TX nad a regular Micor RX board for the
receiver.

I don't have the manual handy to give you the station TX channel element
number, but it's not going to be a KXN1024.

Mike WA6ILQ




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[mch]

No it is not. In fact, there is no TX element
in most UHF Micor mobiles. (perhaps not in any)

The TX is synthesized based on the RX channel element.

However, I think the UHF base uses the
same TX element as a VHF Micor mobile.

Joe M.

Don wrote:
> 
> Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try and find
> My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the Transmit Element is
> the same one used in the Micor Unified repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I
> need it in the Rptr.
> 
> Thanks Don KA9QJG
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
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> 
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[Repeater-Builder] Micor channel element

[Don]

Before I go out in My unheated Garage at 14 Deg in Indiana and try and find 
My old Micor uhf mobile ,  can anyone tell Me if the Transmit Element is 
the same one used in the Micor Unified repeater ? it was on 444.750  and I 
need it in the Rptr.

Thanks Don KA9QJG





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter

[Kevin Custer]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>Please include me info on this list of possible solutions to noise spikes.  
>My repeater experiences snapping crackling and popping from some source at the 
>site. Not de-sense, its seems to be arcing on a 45 kw bed spring antenna 
>someplace or some high voltage loose antenna point. Comes and goes. A noise 
>blanker 
>would be ideal. 
>

This reading might be of help:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/cracking.html

Kevin





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[Kevin Custer]

Hi,

Neil McKie wrote:

>  Question for those of you who are currently familiar with the 
> cable companies technical operations these days.  
>
>  What frequencies are the cable companies using for field leakage 
> testing?  
>

157.250 or channel "G" is very common.

>  Might be handy to know if we, the radio people community, are to 
> deal with the cable companies leakage problems.
>

Kevin





 

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[Repeater-Builder] Pre Spring Specials (TRYING TO THINK WARM)

[Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio]

WITH THE SPRING ANTENNA CONSTRUCTION SEASON ONLY 4
MONTHS AWAY, ( AT LEAST FOR MOST OF US)
c/c accepted + shipping  708-681-0300
Andrew Heliax jumpers all new product unused. most in
orig Andrew pkg.

FSJ1-50 1/4 in 8 ft no conn  $4.00 ea.
(PL259 easy-on with UG-176 adapter exc for duplexer
jumpers)
FSJ4-50 (20 & 40 ft no conn $.50/ft
F1-PNMNM-8 FSJ1-50A 1/4 in with N-male each end $10
each

F1PNF-BH 1/4 conn female TNC bulkhead $8.00 ea

L44NT Andrew connector TNC female for FHJ1/FSJ1 $8.00
ea 

242845 Heliax ETS-50T 50 ohm 3/8 in - 56 in. long with
7/16 DIN male each end. $5.00 ea

F4A-PDMDM-10 Superflex 1/2 in with 7/16DIN male each
end $10 ea.

LDF4RN-50-32ft 1/2 in fire retardant jacket with 1
male N mounted. $15 ea

F4PNMv2 Connector Suplerflex 1/2 in N male $10 ea
F4PNM Conn  'N' male superfelx 1/2 in $10 ea
L44U Andrew conn LDF4-50A 1/2 Female UHF  $10 ea

FSJ4-50-20ft Superflex no conn 

=
Ted Bleiman  K9MDM -just tired
MDM Radio Ltd
1629-B N. 31 st Ave
Melrose Park, IL 60160
708.681.0300   fax 708.681.9800
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web http://www.mdmradio.com

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[Neil McKie]

  Around here, RS is the only source of anything distantly resembling 
 something electronic.  

  Otherwise, you get it from another ham operator or from out of 
 town. 

  Neil - WA6KLA 


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> >The two responses I've seen most often are the blank stares and 
> >"we used ta carry that."
> >
> >Richard, N7TGB
> 
> Actually it's "We've got questions, you've got answers".
> 
> Example: I walk into a RS store.  I'm asked "can I help you find 
> something?"  I respond "No thanks, I know what I'm looking for".  
> Happens all the time.
> 
> Bob NO6B
>



 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[no6b]

>The two responses I've seen most often are the blank stares and >"we used ta 
>carry that."
>
>Richard, N7TGB

Actually it's "We've got questions, you've got answers".

Example: I walk into a RS store.  I'm asked "can I help you find something?"  I 
respond "No thanks, I know what I'm looking for".  Happens all the time.

Bob NO6B




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[ian wells]

so any tuner that is setup for 1-30mhz should work ok for 70-80mhz or will i
have to get one designed for that band
Thank you
Ian Wells
Kerinvale Comaudio
mail service 1017,
Biloela,4715.
www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: "John J. Riddell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2004 4:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer


> Ian,  any simple antenna tuner will work,  or you could use one of the
> commercial units such as MFJ etc.
> I used a home brew unit on our local repeater amp several years ago and it
> stopped the terrible
> spurs that were going up and down the band.  The amp was a Mirage 120 watt
> "repeater" unit and I could never
> get Mirage to admit that they needed some tuning on the output of that
thing
> when used into a duplexer.
> I talked to the Pres. of the company at the Dayton hamvention and he
"would
> get back to me"..
> never heard from him again !
>
> The advice seen here to tune for Max OP is good..that worked for me !
>
> 73 John  VE3AMZ
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "ian wells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer
>
>
> > hi guys
> > would anyone know who sells impedance matchers in australia
> > Thank you
> > Ian Wells
> > Kerinvale Comaudio
> > mail service 1017,
> > Biloela,4715.
> > www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: 
> > Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 11:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer
> >
> >
> > > Adi,
> > >
> > > Both TESSCO and Talley Communications sell impedance matchers.  The
ones
> > > made by EMR (www.emrcorp.com) and by Telewave (www.telewave.com) are
> > > similar in construction, performance, and price (about US$70.)
> > >
> > > Very important!  When tuning an impedance matcher, the wattmeter is
> > > inserted between the duplexer and the antenna, not between the
impedance
> > > matcher and the duplexer TX input.  I'm assuming here that your
antenna
> > > and feedline are a good match to the duplexer, so the power output
> > > should not change when you remove the wattmeter.  Actually, that's one
> > > way to confirm that your antenna and feedline are a good match:  Use a
> > > Bird 43 or equivalent wattmeter connected at the duplexer's antenna
> > > connector, to measure the power going into a dummy load right after
the
> > > wattmeter.  Then, connect the antenna feedline in place of the dummy
> > > load.  Ideally, the forward power will be nearly the same.  If there's
a
> > > lot of reflected power, you have a problem to investigate.
> > >
> > > The impedance matcher should always be attached as close to the
> > > transmitter PA output connector as possible, for maximum benefit.
And,
> > > of course, it must remain in the circuit permanently.
> > >
> > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> > >
> > > Adi Linden wrote:
> > > >
> > >
> > > > Where would I be able to find a "Z-Matcher" or how could I build
one?
> I
> > think I mentioned it before, this repeater is permanently located at my
> > office and meant for experimenting. So this is the perfect place to
learn.
> > >
> > > Playing with different cable lengths is an interesting idea. How would
I
> > > be able to find the cable that properly matches the PA to the
duplexer,
> > > when the meter inserted into the coax itself alters the cable length?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Mike Perryman]

Yes, I am aware...
I ordered the "ity bity metal cans" from ICM furnishing all required info...
Present freq, desired freq, radio model number and channel element model 
number.
As it is only temporary solution (in a controlled environment) I passed on 
the "full boat" order.

  Any other input?

Mike

At 11:25 AM 01/05/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>This you are not going to do "on the cheap".
>If you were talking about a compression
>mount (FT-243,etc - remember those guys?),
>you could either grind or etch it to the desired
>frequency.  These days (for the last 40 years),
>our crystals come in ity bity cans.  They mount
>on wires that are soldered to the plating on each
>of the flat sides.  Unless you have the equipment
>to re-plate the crystal after you have etched it to
>your frequency (only works to raise the frequency),
>you are dead in the water before you start.
>Bite the bullet, and get a pro crystal shop to do it
>right.
>
>Happy New Year, one and all,
>- Original Message -
>From: "Mike Perryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 AM
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread
>
>
> > Good morning to all,
> > I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel capacitance to
> > warp a crystal onto freq...
> > I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct me to
> > some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive,
> > found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
> > I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but decided to
> > go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning
>experience.
> > I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... this
> > will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
> > There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being
> > designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -
> >Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
> >[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
> >http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
> >K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
> >(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
> > -
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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-
   Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
   http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
   K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
   (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
- 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Building first repeater

[kc7gf]

In a message dated 1/5/04 9:19:54 AM Mountain Standard Time, 
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com writes:

<< Re: [Repeater-Builder] Building first repeater
 
 <>

Either voice or CW identification is acceptable. People opt for the IDer 
because it is easier and provides a reminder for them to also identify.

Art - KC7GF 



 

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[Repeater-Builder] For Sale - A REAL!!! EF Johnson Programming RPI

[Dave Schmidt]

I know a pile of people are looking for one of these units ... the real
thing or even a clone.

FOR SALE!

A REAL EFJ RPI!!!  which is kinda rare and hard to find... especially
this one, the 023-5810-000 that is capable of programming repeaters
such as the Johnson 3450 which the programming jack only provides 7VDC
or so to power the RPI ( The original RPI - 023-5800-000 - does not
like that low voltage). This unit will also program the Challenger
series (7100) and the 8600 series mobile radios, it will program the
5800 series challenger HTs and it will program the remote alpha
heads and probably more.

This unit is in very good condition and has a very long programming
cable with dual connectors for double sided edge and dual row pin
programming ports.

Asking $150 shipped for this unit.


Contact me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested. I accept PAYPAL
online payment and US Postal Money Orders.

Thanks

Dave




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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise filter

[albemarle7]

Please include me info on this list of possible solutions to noise spikes.  
My repeater experiences snapping crackling and popping from some source at the 
site. Not de-sense, its seems to be arcing on a 45 kw bed spring antenna 
someplace or some high voltage loose antenna point. Comes and goes. A noise 
blanker 
would be ideal. 
Gary  K2UQ
  



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

[Virden Clark Beckman]

Try adding a pull-down resistor to the cas line about 10k would do to be
certain the controller is not floating, you may want to try this on the
correct ctcss input switch also to prevent bouncing.

Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR wrote:
> 
> Ok Guys and Gals
> 
> I have a little problem here
> I am getting a crap load of noise off my repeater
> 
> I have a Linkcomm Moto squelch
> and a RLC2A controller
> 
> with a good ol Harris radio
> 
> now here is the problem
> 
> when I key the radio  I can talk and an bad noise follows then the tail
> drops
> 
> will I thought it was the repeater BUT I look at the squelch and the
> light goes out after I unkey but the noise is still there  or a couple of
> sec.
> 
> I thouht it was where the repeater is so I added PL
> 
> again PL and COS drop and still have that darn noise
> 
> could this be coming from my power supply ? via the controller ?
> the radio controller PL pannel are all on the same PS
> 
> every thing is drawing about 12 amps out of a 30 amp PS
> 
> any one have any idea what might be going on ??
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS
> Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR
> Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120
> Lakefield Ont Canada
> 
> 
> 
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-- 
73...Clark Beckman N8PZD

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: SWR between radio and duplexer power level option

[Adi Linden]

> The Micor/MSR, Master II & Mitrek PA RF power 
> transistors are designed to work in class C 
> with expected (saturated operation) "full drive". 

That explains it. All makes sense now.

> The above says quite a bit.  If your 110 PA has a 
> 45 way driver stage ahead of it. Bypass the 110 
> watt output section and run the driver back at 
> normal output. 

Now that's something where I'd rather be following someones footsteps. I 
am really not comfortble altering the PA from it's original design. Anyone 
has some proven instructions on how to do that?

I guess an alternative would be to bolt a 50W board and PA into a 110W 
chassis. That would keep the original PA design intact but take advantage 
of the larger chassis of a 110W Mitrek. 

> I'm still trying to figure out how you 110 watt 
> mitrek people keep the in cabinet desense from 
> becomming a problem, not to mention the heat build 
> up without serious air movement past the heat sink. 

Desense hasn't been a problem at all even at rated power. I haven't looked 
at the heat generated inside the PA compartment at all. Not sure if that 
will be a problem at extended keydown. There was a previous thread that 
indicated it would. For external ventilation I build a box with fans that 
forces air over the PA. Here are some pics (eventually be part of a 
webpage describing the whole project).




> Two mitreks side by side might be overkill, but 
> a better tx preformer. 

My goal really wasn't high power but reliable operation at low power. 
Given the large heatsink, etc, I thought that radio was a good choice. 
Didn't learn about all these issues until after I bought a bunch of the 
radios...

Adi
-- 
   Adi Linden  |  va3adi  |  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  |  http://adis.ca
+-+
IRLP Node 2590 in Sioux Lookout, Ontario




 

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[Repeater-Builder] noise on repeater

[Rick - VA3RZS/Charlotte - VA3CMR]

Ok Guys and Gals 

I have a little problem here 
I am getting a crap load of noise off my repeater

I have a Linkcomm Moto squelch
and a RLC2A controller

with a good ol Harris radio 

now here is the problem

when I key the radio  I can talk and an bad noise follows then the tail 
drops

will I thought it was the repeater BUT I look at the squelch and the 
light goes out after I unkey but the noise is still there  or a couple of 
sec.

I thouht it was where the repeater is so I added PL 

again PL and COS drop and still have that darn noise 

could this be coming from my power supply ? via the controller ?
the radio controller PL pannel are all on the same PS

every thing is drawing about 12 amps out of a 30 amp PS

any one have any idea what might be going on ??

Thanks 


Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS
Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR
Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120
Lakefield Ont Canada





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Robert Mantell]

This you are not going to do "on the cheap".
If you were talking about a compression
mount (FT-243,etc - remember those guys?),
you could either grind or etch it to the desired
frequency.  These days (for the last 40 years),
our crystals come in ity bity cans.  They mount
on wires that are soldered to the plating on each
of the flat sides.  Unless you have the equipment
to re-plate the crystal after you have etched it to
your frequency (only works to raise the frequency),
you are dead in the water before you start.
Bite the bullet, and get a pro crystal shop to do it
right.

Happy New Year, one and all,
- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Perryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 6:55 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread


> Good morning to all,
> I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel capacitance to
> warp a crystal onto freq...
> I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct me to
> some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive,
> found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
> I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but decided to
> go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning
experience.
> I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... this
> will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
> There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being
> designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> -
>Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
>http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
>K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
>(703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
> - 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: SWR between radio and duplexer power level option

[skipp025]

The Micor/MSR, Master II & Mitrek PA RF power 
transistors are designed to work in class C 
with expected (saturated operation) "full drive". 

When you drop X-percentage drive power below 
the X-Value, the power amplifier stages don't 
preform as expected. You have departed from 
the more predictable amp/transistor design 
parameters, which lend much to the overall amp 
stability. 

Less than half power stage operation is 
often considered bad news and a source of trouble. 
Better to bypass a final stage and run the drivers 
and pre-final near rated full-tilt values. 

> I had hoped that the 110W PA turned to 50-75% 
> power would have much better heat characteristics. 

Heat yes, stable operation... not always a given. 

> Once I actually tuned the radio it turned out 
> that the reduction in PA output power does not 
> mean an equivalent reduction in current draw.
> Adi

The above says quite a bit.  If your 110 PA has a 
45 way driver stage ahead of it. Bypass the 110 
watt output section and run the driver back at 
normal output. 

Although I don't recomend it for the average Joe, 
the 45 watt predriver will probably do another 
easy 5 watts without serious issues. 

A stable 45/50 watts is better than an reduced 110 
watt saturated output stage. 

Bipolar and emitter balasted transistors do not 
make happy at reduced power. 

I'm still trying to figure out how you 110 watt 
mitrek people keep the in cabinet desense from 
becomming a problem, not to mention the heat build 
up without serious air movement past the heat sink. 

Two mitreks side by side might be overkill, but 
a better tx preformer. 

cheers

skipp 

skipp025 at yahoo.com 





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[John J. Riddell]

Ian,  any simple antenna tuner will work,  or you could use one of the
commercial units such as MFJ etc.
I used a home brew unit on our local repeater amp several years ago and it
stopped the terrible
spurs that were going up and down the band.  The amp was a Mirage 120 watt
"repeater" unit and I could never
get Mirage to admit that they needed some tuning on the output of that thing
when used into a duplexer.
I talked to the Pres. of the company at the Dayton hamvention and he "would
get back to me"..
never heard from him again !

The advice seen here to tune for Max OP is good..that worked for me !

73 John  VE3AMZ


- Original Message - 
From: "ian wells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer


> hi guys
> would anyone know who sells impedance matchers in australia
> Thank you
> Ian Wells
> Kerinvale Comaudio
> mail service 1017,
> Biloela,4715.
> www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> - Original Message -
> From: "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 11:43 AM
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer
>
>
> > Adi,
> >
> > Both TESSCO and Talley Communications sell impedance matchers.  The ones
> > made by EMR (www.emrcorp.com) and by Telewave (www.telewave.com) are
> > similar in construction, performance, and price (about US$70.)
> >
> > Very important!  When tuning an impedance matcher, the wattmeter is
> > inserted between the duplexer and the antenna, not between the impedance
> > matcher and the duplexer TX input.  I'm assuming here that your antenna
> > and feedline are a good match to the duplexer, so the power output
> > should not change when you remove the wattmeter.  Actually, that's one
> > way to confirm that your antenna and feedline are a good match:  Use a
> > Bird 43 or equivalent wattmeter connected at the duplexer's antenna
> > connector, to measure the power going into a dummy load right after the
> > wattmeter.  Then, connect the antenna feedline in place of the dummy
> > load.  Ideally, the forward power will be nearly the same.  If there's a
> > lot of reflected power, you have a problem to investigate.
> >
> > The impedance matcher should always be attached as close to the
> > transmitter PA output connector as possible, for maximum benefit.  And,
> > of course, it must remain in the circuit permanently.
> >
> > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> >
> > Adi Linden wrote:
> > >
> >
> > > Where would I be able to find a "Z-Matcher" or how could I build one?
I
> think I mentioned it before, this repeater is permanently located at my
> office and meant for experimenting. So this is the perfect place to learn.
> >
> > Playing with different cable lengths is an interesting idea. How would I
> > be able to find the cable that properly matches the PA to the duplexer,
> > when the meter inserted into the coax itself alters the cable length?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
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>





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[Neil McKie]

  In my personal opinion, I would believe since the Z-Matcher is 
 adjustable and the coax length is not, once the optimum length 
 is determined, I would tend toward the Z-Matcher. 

  Besides, how long would you like to sit, shorten the cable length 
 and reinstall the connector each time, before tossing the whole 
 thing out and buying the Z-Matcher?  

  Neil 


Adi Linden wrote:
> 
> So I wonder, what is the better way to go, the Z-Matcher or cut 
> to length cable?
> 
> > The best write up for this topic exists in this document:
> > http://www.repeater-builder.com/pdf/wp6xxtuninginstructions.pdf
> >
> > Scroll down to page 4 and read the section on :
> > "Cable length between transmitter and duplexer"
> 
> Adi
> --
>Adi Linden  |  va3adi  |  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  |  http://adis.ca
> +-+
> IRLP Node 2590 in Sioux Lookout, Ontario
> 
>



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[Adi Linden]

So I wonder, what is the better way to go, the Z-Matcher or cut to length 
cable?

> The best write up for this topic exists in this document:
> http://www.repeater-builder.com/pdf/wp6xxtuninginstructions.pdf
> 
> Scroll down to page 4 and read the section on :
> "Cable length between transmitter and duplexer"

Adi
-- 
   Adi Linden  |  va3adi  |  [EMAIL PROTECTED]  |  http://adis.ca
+-+
IRLP Node 2590 in Sioux Lookout, Ontario




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[Neil McKie]

  Question for those of you who are currently familiar with the 
 cable companies technical operations these days.  

  What frequencies are the cable companies using for field leakage 
 testing?  

  Might be handy to know if we, the radio people community, are to 
 deal with the cable companies leakage problems.  

  47 CFR, Section 76.609 describes how to make the field measurements. 

  73, 

  Neil McKie - WA6KLA  


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> I've had a number of these issues in commercial 2-way / paging 
> systems / ham repeaters I've maintained over the past years and 
> the problem has always been a leak in the CATV system cabling 
> somewhere, they use the ham band freq for TV.  While there is 
> always suppose to be isolation between the house taps on the CATV 
> drops to homes, they may or may not be sufficient, once your signal 
> get into the CATV system their broadband amps pass it along to 
> others.  I've seen all kinds of stuff you wouldn't believe people 
> would do, but it happens.  The last problem I had was a home owner 
> who connected their cable TV connection to a coat hanger to radiate 
> TV signal to another room in their house.  A 1/4 KW VHF paging 
> transmitter a half block away gained access into the CATV system 
> (coat hanger seems to be a fairly effective antenna at VHF) and 
> wiped out cable TV for about 10 city blocks.
> 
> Rob  K7EI
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:17 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem
> 
> My 2 meter link on my repeater is causing TVI. This happens only
> on cable ch 18 on Charter Cable here in Yakima, WA. Any one have
> any ideas? This is only on the houses, say with-in 1/2 mile.
> 
> Rod
>



 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[rob . vance]

I've had a number of these issues in commercial 2-way / paging systems / ham
repeaters I've maintained over the past years and the problem has always
been a leak in the CATV system cabling somewhere, they use the ham band freq
for TV.  While there is always suppose to be isolation between the house
taps on the CATV drops to homes, they may or may not be sufficient, once
your signal get into the CATV system their broadband amps pass it along to
others.   I've seen all kinds of stuff you wouldn't believe people would do,
but it happens.  The last problem I had was a home owner who connected their
cable TV connection to a coat hanger to radiate TV signal to another room in
their house.  A 1/4 KW VHF paging transmitter a half block away gained
access into the CATV system (coat hanger seems to be a fairly effective
antenna at VHF) and wiped out cable TV  for about 10 city blocks.

Rob  K7EI


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2004 1:17 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem


My 2 meter link on my repeater is causing TVI. This happens only 
on cable ch 18 on Charter Cable here in Yakima, WA. Any one have 
any ideas? This is only on the houses, say with-in 1/2 mile. 

Rod 



 

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[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB Products Duplexer Conversion

[ac0y5]

There's a lot of people who have the conversion info. The QUESTION is 
Does it really work well with solid state PAs like the MASTRII? And 
How were the loops in the High side handled, Replaced with ones from 
DB Products, or home made? If there were home made, how were they 
attached, cut the old loops, and attach to stubs or what? All of this 
is very important. I have seen responses that suggest that it works, 
but no one has seemed excited about the results. I would like to know 
from someone who has completed the conversion just how well it works 
and what kind of specs we're looking at How deep the notch on each 
side, and how much loss through the duplexer on each side, And how 
well the solid state PA loads in to the duplexer.
73
Coy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Bob Parker  AC4RX,
> I have a complete copy of the DB4048 factory modification to 2 
meter ham 
> band on its way to you in Florida.  Its leaving 1st class this 
morning from 
> Trenton, NJ.
> It will have probably more info that you want to know about the 
DB4048...hi.  
> I have a list of those who asked for the info and everything is 
Xeroxed and 
> ready to go. One of the requesters promised to post it in a web 
site which for 
> all those interested. That would be great. 
> 73,
> Gary  K2UQ





 

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[Repeater-Builder] noise filter

[philgoben2000]

The 70cm repeater I run is suffering from what sounds like electrical 
noise, Having checked the input frequency with a spectrum analyser 
and the source was traced to a suspected M.o.D. source who share the 
same band in the UK. I can't ask them to switch off as they are the 
primary user. I was thinking about making an audio filter using 
digital delay and a fast switching mute so that the nose spikes are 
muted before being re-transmitted. Has anyone done this or is there 
some filter I could buy?
73s Phil G0EPX






 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer

[Kevin Custer]

Adi Linden wrote:

>Playing with different cable lengths is an interesting idea. How would I 
>be able to find the cable that properly matches the PA to the duplexer, 
>when the meter inserted into the coax itself alters the cable length?
>

The best write up for this topic exists in this document:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/pdf/wp6xxtuninginstructions.pdf

Scroll down to page 4 and read the section on :
"Cable length between transmitter and duplexer"

This and many other antenna system articles are available from the 
"Antenna System Information Index" on RBTIP.

Kevin Custer


PS:  Donations are still being accepted for the hosting fees for RBTIP.
Go here if you haven't already, and Thank You!  to those that have:
http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/

RBTIP = Repeater Builders Technical Information Page





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Info on Cook towers.

[Russ Stafford]

It is a TKR-850k
We got a very very good price.
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Maire 
  Company 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 11:55 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Info on 
  Cook towers.
  
  what model Kenwood?  and your cost?
  thanks  John
   
   
  
- Original Message - 
From: 
Russ Stafford 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 2:40 
PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Info on 
Cook towers.

 
 
Hello All,
Here is the info on Cook Towers World Wide, 
INC
Marietta GA. 770-423-7553
Glassboro NJ 856-881-6777
Philly. PA 610-631-3447
Toll free 877-992-2665
e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
We bought the following from them.
for two meters an RFS PD-200 it is under 20' and will 
mount to a Rohn 25
for 220 we bought a RFS PD-220 and for 440 we bought a RFS 
model 455 for 900 we bought a TX/RX and we are happy with all of them. we 
also got a deal on 250' of 1" and 5/8's hard line (new). 
We at Metro-Comm are very happy with the stuff we got from 
them. 
We are buying a Kenwood GMRS repeater form them as well. I 
hope the check will go out Monday for that.
I hope this will be of help.
 
 
 
 
 

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[Repeater-Builder] Need to make jumpers?????

[Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio]

Make the best jumpers you can.
8 ft lengths of Andrew 1/4 inch Heliax available no
connectors. Easy fit in PL259 with UG 176 adapter
$4.00 ea + shipping.
Also Andrew 56 inch lengths of Andrew ETS-50T 3/8 inch
50 ohm with Male DIN 7-16 each end.  $5.00

Quantities available
www.andrew.com for specs

Immediate shipment with c/c on fone 708-681-0300

some pix available at www.mdmradio.com


=
Ted Bleiman  K9MDM -just tired
MDM Radio Ltd
1629-B N. 31 st Ave
Melrose Park, IL 60160
708.681.0300   fax 708.681.9800
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web http://www.mdmradio.com

__
Do you Yahoo!?
Find out what made the Top Yahoo! Searches of 2003
http://search.yahoo.com/top2003



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[Jim B.]

Mike Morris wrote:

> "You've got questions, we've got answers!"
> 
> Yeah, most of them wrong, or "it's out of stock", or "we don't carry
> that any more"
> 
> Mike
> 

"By the way, how's your cell phone service?"

=cP
Jim





 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB Products Duplexer Conversion

[albemarle7]

Bob Parker  AC4RX,
I have a complete copy of the DB4048 factory modification to 2 meter ham 
band on its way to you in Florida.  Its leaving 1st class this morning from 
Trenton, NJ.
It will have probably more info that you want to know about the DB4048...hi.  
I have a list of those who asked for the info and everything is Xeroxed and 
ready to go. One of the requesters promised to post it in a web site which for 
all those interested. That would be great. 
73,
Gary  K2UQ



 

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[Repeater-Builder] previous Mitrek channel element thread

[Mike Perryman]

Good morning to all,
I remember a thread a while back regarding adding parallel capacitance to 
warp a crystal onto freq...
I am coming up about 7kHz low on my TX element.  Can someone direct me to 
some information regarding this subject.  I have searched the archive, 
found a little on the subject, but not a whole lot.
I have in the past just ordered comp'ed elements from ICM, but decided to 
go the cheap route this time.  I hope to turn this into a learning experience.
I am trying to tune several Mitreks as backups for a flaky Micor... this 
will give me a chance to go through the Micor.
There was also mention of an Mitrek interface board that was being 
designed, but I have seen no recent mention of this project.

Thanks in advance,
Mike




-
   Mike PerrymanCavell, Mertz & Davis, Inc.
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]   Consulting Engineers
   http://www.cmdconsulting.com 7839 Ashton Avenue
   K5JMPManassas, VA 20109   USA
   (703) 392-9090; (703) 392-9559 fax;  DC Line (202) 332-0110
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB Products Duplexer Conversion

[John Cofy]

Hi Jeff,

I am in the need for the conversion, could you please
send me the details?

Can you send them via email?

If not here is my address:

Robert Parker
10014 Prevatt Street
Gibsonton, FL 33534

Thanks!

Bob Parker
AC4RX


--- Jeffrey Crowell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Acoy:
> 
> I have the information on the DB 40/48 for ham band.
> I cut the loops on mine and soutered pieces in it
> and it worked perfect.
> Send me a address and I will send you the
> information or call me at (706)
> 769-9141.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeff Crowell
> KD4AOZ
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "ac0y5" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 11:17 AM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] DB Products Duplexer
> Conversion
> 
> 
> > Has anyone here ever tried the DB4048/DB4046
> duplexer conversion from
> > DB Products, and been sucesful? If so, whats the
> key and where do you
> > get the "long loops" I asked DB Products Tech
> support at the time
> > that I received the documentation about the loops.
> They said that
> > they did not sell loops and gave me the name of
> three manufacturers
> > all of which didn't know what DBP was talking
> about. I called back
> > and was told the shorter loops that I have would
> likely work.
> > If anyone has had sucess, then it might be worth
> the effort to try
> > again.
> > 73 and Thanks
> > AC0Y
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
> >  http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II UHF audio adjustment

[Corey Dean N3FE]

Russ,
Are you using the stock controller or a third party controller?

Corey  N3FE
IRLP Nodes 4100 & 4482
Reflector 905

> Those are deviation and ctcss levels, they won't help a 'bassy' sounding
> repeater. What you need to do is follow the audio lines in and out to
> see what components and where the de-emphasis was made, compare the
> values you have to the repeater builder web site audio recomendations to
> get the level improved.
>
> russcrisp wrote:
>>
>> greetings everyone.
>>
>> i have a mastr II uhf repeater (not a mobile) that i just had retuned
>> from the public safety band down into the amateur band. the audio
>> seems a little 'bassy', and the level seems a bit low. anyone know how
>> to adjust the audio controls on the exciter? i see a couple of pots,
>> but don't know what they are.. can someone tell me what they are? i
>> need to clean this up..
>>
>> best regards!
>> russ crisp
>> cullowhee, nc
>   http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> --
> 73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
>
> Pursuant to U.S. Code, title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, ß227,
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Info on Cook towers.

[Russ Stafford]

I don't think they do. If they do I do not know what it is.
You could write them direct or just call there toll free number. They did
not show a web site in there ad.


- Original Message -
From: "Vincent Caruso" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Info on Cook towers.


>
> Do they have a website?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem

[Russ Stafford]

It changed back about 1985 or so to 1500 watts.
BTW it changed from 2000 watts not 2500 

- Original Message - 
From: "Virden Clark Beckman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2004 12:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater TVI Problem


> I thought it was 2500 watts, I guess I will have to scale down my
> vhf/uhf contesting amplifier, maybe those 8877s will last a long time
> now.
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> Snip>> I can transmit with 1500 watts
> > out, legally. We were both polite to each other - never in a pushing
> > match of any kind. And then he left. But he did say that he would
> > pass this problem on to some one who knew more than he did. I
> > was surprised to see this much action so fast.
> > 
> > Rod kc7vqr
> > 
> 
> -- 
> 73...Clark Beckman N8PZD
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> 



 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: SWR between radio and duplexer

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

At 02:12 AM 1/5/04 -0600, you wrote:

> >A little tip for folks posting long urls
> >put them inside the arrows that you find on the upper case comma and 
> period...
> >They won't "break"...  like this...
> > EMATCH_LOAD.pdf>
> >
> >Mike WA6ILQ
> >
>Mike I actually found This http://tinyurl.com/ And It actually worked
>the first time I tried it I was afraid it would re do the original to
>a  porn site.
>
>Happy Repeater Building
>
>Don KA9QJG/R

Yep - there are several redirecting web sites that do that kind of
thing...

But rather than use tinyurl or one of it's clones I find it quicker to
copy the complete URL from the browser address line with a Ctrl-C
then paste it into an email with a typed < then a Ctrl-V and a >.

The arrow trick is part of the URL spec, RFC 1738 to be precise.
Look at http://www.faqs.org/rfcs/rfc1738.html, and scroll down to
the third paragraph after "APPENDIX: Recommendations for
URLs in Context".

Arrow-bracketed URLs are supposed to work in plain text or in
html and not get broken by a simple word wrap...  Anything that
behaves differently (i.e. like in several versions of Netscape) is
by definition broken.

We're drifting off topic...  if anybody want's to continue this
comment thread let's take this to email...

Mike 




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Off topic questions

[Butch Kanvick]

You can view the Electronics Engineering Master Catalog at www.eem.com
Butch

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Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] SWR between radio and duplexer]

[Don]

On the Heat VS Power I found this out and I thought differently , I wanted 
to Temporally drive My Micor amp with Two watts , so I went to a friend and 
told him I wanted a UHF Maxtrac,  He had Two one at that had a Two watt pa 
and one that was 35 Watts,  Well the old brain kicked in and I said give Me 
the High power one and I will Program it down to two watts , and it will 
run nice and cold because it was rated a lot higher , He stated no that is 
not true it would put out spurs and get hot , Well I just had to have that 
one , And sure enough the heat sink got hot at two watts , so I went back 
got the two watt unit  Hooked it up and it runs nice and cool.

Don KA9QJG





 

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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Building first repeater

[Rizki Pratama]

Thanks...

-Original Message-
From: Russ Stafford [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 05 Januari 2004 2:20
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Building first repeater

All very good points.
One thing a lot of hams forget is that it MUST ID.
It is a repeater. I have a TM-742 in my SUV and
it gets used to extend the range of my HT.(cross band)
It ID's I hooked up a Comm Spec cw ider.
Would I use this as a full repeater? NO WAY!
Get an old Master 2 or something and make a
nice real repeater.
Good luck!
73 Russ, W3CH
Trustee W3PS
Metro-Comm, INC
Repeater network.
Echo-Link node # 119660
(W3PS-R) 24 hours a day!


- Original Message -
From: "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2004 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Building first repeater


> I strongly recommend that you proceed very cautiously along this path.
> Amateur-grade radios seldom have the quality, stability, and robust
> design needed in a repeater.  The CTCSS tone encode deviation is
> frequently far too high, and is almost never adjustable.  Every
> dual-band rig I have seen needed to be adjusted to bring the center
> frequency and deviation within the manufacturer's own specs, and some
> were very prone to drift.  The ICOM IC-207H is a prime example of such
a
> radio.  Very few dual-band ham rigs with cross-band repeat capability
> have the proper filtering to keep the CTCSS tones out of the repeated
> audio.  I would go with two back-to-back commercial radios and a RICK
> between them if I were interested in cross-band repeat capability.
>
> As I understand the FCC Rules, a cross-band radio (such as the Alinco
> DR-605T) should be used as a remote base by the owner only.  To be
legal
> as an open repeater, it must have a station identifier.
>
> Ideally, the radiation center of the antenna should be above any
nearby
> obstructions.  An omnidirectional antenna with modest gain (4 to 7
dBd)
> on the roof of the highest building will likely be a good performer.
If
> your antenna location is not centered in the desired coverage area,
> consider a directional-pattern antenna such as a corner reflector, a
> low-gain Yagi, or an offset dipole.
>
> I suggest you consider a Motorola R1225 repeater, instead.  The R1225
is
> available in 10 watt and 50 watt versions, is available in both VHF
and
> UHF versions, includes station ID-er, hang timer, courtesy beep,
timeout
> timer, TPL and DPL encode/decode, and is completely programmable.
Even
> with the required HVN9054 software, it costs less than a roughly
> equivalent Hamtronics repeater, and is a far, far better radio.  I
have
> two R1225 repeaters in commercial service, and one in Amateur service
on
> 2m.  One of the former is a solar-powered UHF repeater that has been
> operating 24/7 on a mountain ridge for more than a year, without a
> problem.
>
> The R1225 is an economy low-tier repeater, but it has great value for
> the money.  I have no financial interest in Motorola, I am simply a
> longtime user of their equipment and a very satisfied customer!
>
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
> Rizky_p wrote:
> >
> > Hi, i am thinking of building repeater for cheap.
> >
> > Can a mobile radio with cross band repeating capability and with 50W
of
Tx power be used instead of using dedicated repeater controller? I am
thinking of Yaesu FT8800R. How high should the tower be?  I want the
coverage at least 20-30 miles.  The area here is perfectly flat with
most
building as high as 24 feet.  (densely populated area mostly houses)
Any
advice?
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: SWR between radio and duplexer

[Don]

>
>A little tip for folks posting long urls
>put them inside the arrows that you find on the upper case comma and period...
>They won't "break"...  like this...
>
>
>Mike WA6ILQ
>
   Mike I actually found This http://tinyurl.com/ And It actually worked 
the first time I tried it I was afraid it would re do the original to 
a  porn site.

Happy Repeater Building

Don KA9QJG/R





 

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