[Repeater-Builder] GE Power Supply 19A149978BP1
Anyone familiar with this beast? It was installed with a MastrII station, but it's putting out 16VDC. It's a newer supply 3RU/Black Front. Looking inside I'm not seeing many options for getting the voltage down. Repeater-Builder.com has a couple of references to the Power Supply in other manuals (EDACS Orion), so I'm guessing this was a replacement that someone stuck in at some point. Anyone who has dealt with one of these, or has a manual? Thanks Chuck n0nhj Glenwood Springs, CO
[Repeater-Builder] Monitoring Positive Ground 48 to negative Ground 0-5
Speaking of monitoring Anyone have an easy way of converting a Positive Ground 48 to 72 volt system to a Negative Ground 0-5V for monitoring? Thanks Chuck n0nhj
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Monitoring Positive Ground 48 to negative Ground 0-5
Yes, trying to monitor the local -48 Power system, and solar charging system with my APRS digi +12VDC that accepts 0-5VDC input. Chuck skipp025 wrote: Chuck Kimball n0...@... wrote: Speaking of monitoring Anyone have an easy way of converting a Positive Ground 48 to 72 volt system to a Negative Ground 0-5V for monitoring? Do you want the voltage to vary with change in the 48 to 72 volt dc supply? s. Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Low Voltage Disconnect and Very Remote Site Operation
Hi Mike: I think the other Chuck try to usurp my answer. I put together a web page of the most recent solar powered digi I built. http://aprs.n0nhj.net/bb/index.html This site is using a synthesized radio since I need multiple frequencies. The best I've done is with an old MT500 that only has about a 12ma standby current draw. The batteries at the smaller sites are all 24 to 28 Amp Hour Gel Cells. 73's Chuck n0nhj kc8fwd wrote: Chuck, I want to solar power a Digi and was curious what all you use and what type of batteries.Thanks Mike KC8FWD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chuck Kimball n0...@... wrote: The 100 to 200ma to hold the coil in on some of the older LVDs can be more than the entire load at some sites. I run several solar powered digipeater sites where the standby current is 50ma. Last summer I ran across the Samlex LVD's that are all solid state, and the load is only 4ma. http://www.samlex.com/pdf/products/batteryguard_en.pdf Tessco carries the 40A version for about $65 (Gold Price) (Non stock/special order). I have had good luck with them so far. Chuck n0nhj Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Low Voltage Disconnect and Very Remote Site Operation
The 100 to 200ma to hold the coil in on some of the older LVDs can be more than the entire load at some sites. I run several solar powered digipeater sites where the standby current is 50ma. Last summer I ran across the Samlex LVD's that are all solid state, and the load is only 4ma. http://www.samlex.com/pdf/products/batteryguard_en.pdf Tessco carries the 40A version for about $65 (Gold Price) (Non stock/special order). I have had good luck with them so far. Chuck n0nhj
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Split site link via IP
In addition to what's already been mentioned, a pure linking box (no ID's etc.) on the commerical side is the JPS NXU2 http://www.jps.com/page/view/89about $750 for each end last time I priced them. Chuck n0nhj Ethercrash wrote: My repeater group is considering building split-site 6m machine. As an inter-site link, I was thinking of using some sort of VOIP arrangement via the internet. I'm curious if anyone has tried something like this: My idea is to use a point-to-point, private link (i.e. not IRLP or Echo) to pump audio and maybe even some signaling between sites. The receive site would consist of the receive radio, controller (most likely an Arcom), and a PC to do the encoding/streaming. The transmit site would consist of a PC to decode the audio stream, a PL decoder for TX logic, and the TX radio. The basic premise would be to take audio from the RX (PL filtered), fed thru the controller, mixed with link PL, and fed to the PC's audio input. The PC then streams the audio over the internet to the RX site PC, where it is decoded and fed to the TX radio, which will be keyed by a PL decoder (provided the IP encode/decode process hasn't mangled the PL). Whew... Now, question is: will it work? Or more properly, has anyone made this work? I'm going to try it on a small scale just to prove concept, but I'm curious if anyone has tried this already. My intention is to use something along the lines of Winamp with Shoutcast or Windows Media Encoder to stream the audio. I'd rather find a Linux-based CLI encoder if such an animal exists. I had thought about using IRLP nodes as endpoints, but IRLP policy would preclude that. Thoughts? Encouragement? FTW is he THINKING?!?! ;) I'd be interested in the group's thoughts, and I'll report the results of my experiments. Thanks 73, Brian, N4BWP Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MTR2000 Backplane Fuse
Thanks everyone, that was the info I needed. I had looked through the book several times, but didn't expect to find a section on fuse replacement in with 'modules'. Mouser has them in stock for $0.67 each Littlelfuse part number is 0453005.MR Thanks again Chuck wb6fly wrote: I took a close look at a spare Motorola MTR2000 fuse, part number 6583049X16, and can provide some additional data: The fuse is rectangular, with a square cross-section, and measures about 6.0mm by 2.6mm. It has a ceramic body, with silver-plated end caps. The legend IE5A is printed on one face. This fuse seems to be identical to Littelfuse (note the spelling) Series 453 Nano fuses. The data sheet is here: www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/Littelfuse_Fuse_451_453.pdf 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ray Brown kb0...@... wrote: - Original Message - From: Chuck Kimball n0...@... To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 5:45 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MTR2000 Backplane Fuse Good Day Everyone: I'm looking for some info on the small fuses on the backplane of the MTR2000 repeaters. I've got a Instruction/Field Service Manual 68P81096E30-C, and can't find anything in there on the part number for the fuse. Apparently Motorola doesn't think those are field replaceable. ;) They are a 5A very small 1/8x1/8x1/4* fuse not much larger than a surface mount resistor - looks to be ceramic with metal ends. I've seen these once before, but don't know the name of that style to do any sort of a search on it. LittleFuse. I forget their exact part designation but several models of hospital beds uses them. I had never seen them before and unfortunately got them from the mfgr. of the beds because I needed some overnight and didn't have time to search. I got about 10 of each (they range from 0.5 to 7 amps @ 32 VDC) plus fuse holders for each one for $200. (sigh) I can't give any of the fuses away, but if anyone wants any surface- mounts for these fuses, I think I have about 30 of them that I could give away. :-) Anyway, Newark stocks them, too. :-) Ray, KBØSTN Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] MTR2000 Backplane Fuse
Good Day Everyone: I'm looking for some info on the small fuses on the backplane of the MTR2000 repeaters. I've got a Instruction/Field Service Manual 68P81096E30-C, and can't find anything in there on the part number for the fuse. Apparently Motorola doesn't think those are field replaceable. ;) They are a 5A very small 1/8x1/8x1/4* fuse not much larger than a surface mount resistor - looks to be ceramic with metal ends. I've seen these once before, but don't know the name of that style to do any sort of a search on it. The generic name or source for them would probably be quicker than ordering through Motorola. Thanks for the help Chuck n0nhj
[Repeater-Builder] Height Gain figure
At one point I had read a number for figuring out the gain you get by increasing the height. Of course at the moment I'm unable to locate that. ie: If I move the same antenna (VHF 2m) up a hill and gain 100' of elevation, but it costs me the line loss (300'), did I really gain anything. I'll figure in the line loss, and adjust the hardline to minimize the loss, but I'm looking for the number to compare how much gain (in db) did I get with the increased height. So... Anyone know what number is for gain as a function of height? or know a reference I can look up. Thanks Chuck n0nhj
[Repeater-Builder] Anderson Power Pole / MTR2000 Repeater
Anyone know off hand which size of the Anderson Power Pole connectors is used on the MTR2000 repeaters? I'm guessing the 75 AMP, but want to confirm that before I put in an order. (It will be Tuesday before I'm back in a position to measure one). Thanks Chuck n0nhj Glenwood Springs, CO
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Switching a Repeater Betwen AC Sources
Laryn: Take a look at: http://www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=14 This would do exactly what you want. Don't bother with the new (Especially at $400), I have an older version picked up off of Ebay here at the house and it runs great. Protects against the UPS failing, and since it's got a network connection I can log into it remotely and actually see the log of when power dropped out on either side. Chuck n0nhj Laryn Lohman wrote: Thanks for the great posts so far. Perhaps I didn't make it clear in my original post--our equipment is and always has been plugged into the red receptacle. It was installed by hospital electricians a number of years ago for us, and we are the sole load on the circuit. It was the recent storm, and presumed lightning strike, that tripped the AC breaker in the emergency breaker panel in the penthouse where our stuff is. The point of all this is that the breaker tripped, leaving our equipment with no power duh hehehe. So I was proposing a method of implementing a backup breaker in case one breaker trips. My proposal is that our normal, daily supply would be the white receptacle. If it goes dead, whether from utility failure or breaker trip, we have the red receptacle, which will then be ready to feed our stuff. The reason we would not want to be on the red receptacle normally is that in case of a lightning strike we are potentially left with a dead red from the strike, and dead white if the utility is down. Obviously, another strike, after we've switched to the red, kills AC totally to our stuff. The presumption is that a breaker probably won't trip, even after a strike, if there's not a load of some sort on it to complete a path for the tripping current. Make sense? Eric, I think you're on my line of thinking. Good point on keeping the greens isolated. Laryn K8TVZ Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] slightly OT: securing feedline to the side of a tower
Have you even looked it up? I didn't keep the original message, so I've lost what you really needed (Was the unistrut already in place? Install I did last summer I spent: 10 pack of Hangers for 1/2 Hardline 16.00 10 Pack of Angle adapters 24.78 That gives you 40' of tower support for less than $50. If you've got round members, you can grab the Stainless Steel hose clamps locally and don't even have the cost of the angle adapters. Given todays price of Gas, It doesn't take but a couple of trips to a site to make up for the 'savings' of doing it cheaper. YMMV Chuck Jay Urish wrote: Great advice! I know how much the andrew hardware costs... That would bankrupt this project. I ended up going the all home depot route with galv unistrut and strut clamps, minis and my spacing is 8'. I will evaluate the load on the feedline, and add additional supports in problem areas.. Jeff DePolo wrote: Nope, because like you said, they would draw the feedline into the strut, smashing it all up... I regularly use cushioned clamps for attaching rigid feedline to unistrut. I usually buy them from McMaster-Carr, but I'm sure they're available elsewhere. McMaster-Carr has them available in tubing sizes in additional to normal trade sizes- 1 5/8 or 3 1/8 rigid line is really 1 5/8 or 3 1/8 OD. The soft plastic insert prevents the clamps from damaging the line. Here's what they look like: www.mcmastercarr.com - search for 32625T62 However, I wouldn't use them nor mini's (Minearallac-type EMT clamps) on a tower, nor would I use any kind of off-the-shelf galvanized, anodized, any kind of plated unistrut on a tower. The galv on regular electrical-grade hardware doesn't hold up as long as most other tower-grade galvanized structural steel. Valmont makes good hot-dipped galv strut if you wanted to go that route. And as always, use only high-grade galv or stainless bolts, nuts, and other hardware to attach to the tower. Never ever use any kind of plated steel components on a tower. They will quickly rust and become semiconductors, and you will almost as quickly be banished from the site (assuming managed by diligent/competent people). Personally, I'd stick with the real stuff - stainless round member adapters (hose clamps) or stainless angle member adapters (beam clamps), and stainless butterflies or snap-ins. Do it once, do it right. If you make a few calls to local tower companies, I'd bet you'll find someone that either has a surplus that they'll see you at a fraction of the new cost, or maybe even a few 5-gallon buckets of hardware taken down that might still be in good condition and can be reused. As far as spacing between brackets/hangers, it varies with wind speed, icing conditions, and line size. Here's Andrew's chart, based on EIA-222: http://www.andrew.com/search/BN_96221.aspx http://www.andrew.com/search/BN_96221.aspx Most towers around here come from the factory with brackets spaced at 4'. And remember, coax hangers really aren't hangers. They aren't meant to hold the vertical weight of the line - that's what hoisting grips (aka Kellems grips) are for. The job of the hangers is to keep the line from flopping around horizontally in the wind, not to hold the weight up. A properly-installed butterfly is only tight enough to keep the line from moving, not hold the weight. As an alternative to butterflies or snap-ins, on big towers where feedline bundling is a necessity due to congestion and to reduce the windload, the traditional techinque is to install runs of rigid conduit the entire length of the tower (inside preferably), and then using tie wires (12AWG THHN solid) or band it stainless straps to aggregate the lines together around the conduit, again at regular (4' nominally) intervals. Hoisting grips are still used every 200' to hold the weight of each cable individually. Tie-wiring a cable directly to a leg is generally considered bad practice for a number of reasons. First, what do you do when you come to a leg flange? If you hug the cable tight against the flange, the sharp edges of the flange creates a spot for it to wear through. If you form the cable loosly around the flange, it leaves it open for room to move and create new problems that way. Also, by being mounted to the leg, it becomes an obstacle when someone else comes along and wants to attach an antenna mount to the leg. It's also more likely to get damaged by climbers and rigging lines. The list goes on and on... Hope this helps. --- Jeff
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antennas that work both in commercial and amateur
I've had issues with the customer service folks at Sinclair also. Will avoid them in the future when I can. Had a circulator that showed up and can't be tuned with the normal adjustments to get it back on track. After several excuses of needing a tax number and then some other documentation, they just stopped answering my emails asking for an RMA. Two years later, I've given up. YMMV Chuck n0nhj skipp025 wrote: Yep... About $10K to $15K worth of crap VHF Antennas bad... Doesn't keep me from buying more... just not the model/type we bought with the problems that have yet to be resolved. I only get a chance to grind on them about it at IWCE each year... every year. Overall Sinclair makes and made great stuff. But I have a large collection of VHF Aluminum Sinclair Edsels in my collection. cheers, skipp Jed Barton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: wow, really, that bad? _ From: skipp025 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 3:36 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Antennas that work both in commercial and amateur Sinclair makes what you're looking for... but you won't like the price... and if their customer service is still as bad as my last experience you won't enjoy trying to resolve any problems that might pop up. cheers, skipp Jed Barton jed@ wrote: Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I need a vhf and a uhf antena. Here's the requirement. I'm planning to operate both amateur and commercial stuff from the house. I'd rather not use a ham antenna in the commercial bands. Are there some that'll do the 136 to 174 split, and some UHF that'll do like 439 to 490? Any ideas? Thanks, Jed Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mystery Signal
The other way you could help rule out anything on that tower would be to get a list of the transmitters there and listen to their frequency and compare when you're hearing the interference. Make take a day or two to get through them all, but that should help. i.e. Scanner or extra receiver tuned to example 151.085 at the :53 transmission, nothing heard and no key up during that time, move on to the next frequency and listen at the :23 transmission, etc. If the tower owner knows they are running a data specific type system that would be the one to start with. If you don't want to bug him again, start with a search of the FCC database for those coordinates. http://www.fcc.gov click on search, etc. You can enter the lat/lon and a radius around and list out the transmitters. Chuck n0nhj Scott Overstreet wrote: Hello All Many thanks to all of you who have responded to my call for help in identifing our Mystery Signal--all of your comments and especially the signal analysis work done by Rodger, Nate, Joe and others are helping with our task. Please keep up the effort as we have not found our signal yet. Preliminary Doppler DF work has us surounding a large scale municiple tower with what we have labled our area of uncertainitya half mile diameter circle or so. Distant vectors from clear areas converge there but close in vectors disperce in almost all directions apparently due to reflections from tall buildings, cars, metel doors, roofs etc.. We are now rounding up a team of experienced DF'ers with other techniques. I have succeded in making contact with the guy that is responsible for the Motorola gear on the towerhe says that our signal isn't comming from any of his stuff but that there is other gear in the radio room and that he will look it over while monitoring by service monitor---a start there. From your responses so far, it sounds like we may well be looking for a piece of ham gear that is mistakenly on our repeater inputwith this we will get back into the neighborhoods around the tower for a new look and spread the word through the packet guys. Again, many thanks to all of you-I'll keep you informed. Scott No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.15.18/585 - Release Date: 12/13/2006
[Repeater-Builder] Re: [Repeaters] In-Band linking question
Very Generally... Comm Shop tells me that you need 50.2 db of isolation between the antennas for 10 watts and .25 rx sens. 10 feet of vertical separation, or 81 feet of horizontal. If you've got less than that, you could add a pass cavity to the transmitter and probably make up the amount needed. Chuck n0nhj - Original Message From: Vincent Caruso [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, November 3, 2006 12:49:30 PM Subject: [Repeaters] In-Band linking question I have a question regarding linking receivers to a main site via RF, the situation is as follows: Receiver 462.XXX Link Frequencies available are in the 451. range the average separation is about 10.5 MHz The receivers will be mostly located on building tops so there are no towers in the equation and vertical separation will not be easy (give or take 6' to 10'). I wanted to use two separate antennas an omni antenna for the 462.XXX frequency and a yagi for the link transmitter (LOS should not be an issue). Output power on the link transmitter will most likely be no more than 10 Watts. Now for the questions. Will I be able to get away with this scenario or do I need to combine antennas and install a duplexer at the sites? If I don't use a duplexer how much separation would I need between the Yagi and the Omni? Has anyone else on this list done this before and how did it work out? Thanks to all in advance Vince The popular, friendly and calm repeater mailing list. If you have questions or comments about this mailing list, please contact Ray Vaughan, KD4BBM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please pass the word about this list to every repeater owner or operator you know.We learn from each other, so the more, the better. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Yoke - for mounting duplexer cavities
Good Day All: I'm looking for a source for the plastic part that Sinclair uses in their duplexers for holding the cans to the cross rails. I found out they call it a 'yoke', but so far have been unsuccessful in getting a part number or price out of them to order some. (Or an RMA for a Circulator, but that's another story). Due to a building that is really tight on space, I've stripped the duplexer out of the cabinet and mounted the cans to the ceiling. Now I've got a couple of more cavities to mount, and am out of the 'yokes' from the duplexer. Any suggestions or locations to find those sorts of mounting brackets. I'm familiar with how TX/RX does just the L bracket for the hose clamp, but prefer the spacing the plastic piece from Sinclair provides. Thanks Chuck Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Repeater DC Power Plugs
Good Day: Anyone know off the top of their head which of the Anderson Power plugs motorola uses on the stations (MTR2000, etc.)? Looking at the web site, I'm guessing the 75 Amp, but want to verify with someone who might have actually researched this. It's going to take a couple of months to get these delivered, and I don't want to get it wrong. Thanks Chuck Kimball n0nhj Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] DeskTrac power supply question
Earlier this week I battery backed up a desktrac here at the house for my aprs Igate. Since I already had a power supply and battery setup, I just left the desktrac power supply unplugged, and lifted the spade terminals and wired them to my fuse block on the way to the battery. Used two sets of wire - 1 for the PA power on the back of the radio, and the 2nd for the smaller wire to the control board under the rf. If I ever want to restore it, I just need to put the spades back on the power supply. The manual I have has very little info on the battery revert option, other than it will only provide 100 ma for charging. I decided the independent system would work better fore me. Chuck n0nhj Thomas Oliver wrote: I would like to know if the internal power supply will allow me to conect a battery for battery backup. There seems to be some .25 male spade terminals near the output rail. I do not have a manual so I don't want to ruin anything. tom n8ies "BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU!" This message brought to you by the US Department of Homeland Security YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Slightly OT - Looking for programming info on RNET450S radios
I picked up some RNET 450S radios at the Williams Hamfest last weekend, and am looking for the programming information on them. (I've got the Cable the Rib). Intend to use a pair of them for a portable repeater. Thanks. Chuck n0nhj Glenwood Springs, CO Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] highest repeater?
I believe the highest in Colorado (off the top of my head) would be the Pikes Peak machines. 146.970, and 448.450 at 14,109 feet above mean sea level. Chuck n0nhj mch wrote: The HIGHEST repeater I can think of would be in Colorado, or the Rocky Mountain chain somewhere. I'm sorry this doesn't answer your question, but I bet it helps others understand what the question is. :-) Of course, an OSCAR unit would be the highest repeater, but that's not just limited to the USA. Joe M. Doug Strobel-KB3HAM wrote: Hello all me and a buddy wer talking and sounthing came up. Does anyone by any chance no what the hiest elavation repeater is or was in the us?. 2m , 70cm what ever thanks alot for the help in answering my strange question 73 Doug Strobel kb3ham Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Topographical website?
http://www.topozone.com Chuck n0nhj Tim Shephard wrote: Is there a website where you can punch in the lat/long and get the altitude? -Tim www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim eFax (508)590-0320 Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] newbie here needs help - PAC RT
Jay: There are lots of special versions out there, but the standard PAC RT was used with a mobile radio to create an in car cross band repeaters. Depending on the version, and the mobile it was interfaced with, it typically hooked to a Micor or Syntor (or lots of others) mobile radio on Low Band, then the officer would carry a high band radio. When he/she got out of the car they would turn on the repeater which would allow them to talk on 154.695 with a PL tone, and it would key the car radio. Anything received on the car radio would be broadcast back out on 154.695 carrier squelch, but the PAC RT would drop ever couple of seconds for a few milliseconds to listen for a response from the officer. The RT versions also had special signaling between the units so if more than one was at a scene only one would be active. Not really very useful in the standard configuration, the RF was based on a portable radio, and only ran 2 watts or less for most units.You might be able to use the RF if you were building something for low power, but if you're planning a 100 watt, I'm guessing you've got AC power, and the PAC RT RF probably wouldn't be the best option. Hope this helps. Chuckn0nhj Grand Junction, CO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello everyone, I am a newbie here, I admit it, I know knowthing! So please dont make fun of me. I have been a No-Code Tech for almost 12 years, but never really learned much. Now here is where I need help, I want to setup a 100 watt repeater near my camp . I have a Motorola Fm Mobile Repeater Radio PAC-RT and the key that opens the case. I have no wires or instructions. On one side it says it is on a frquency of 154.695, I know this is a State Police frequency in most states so I cant use it as is. Inside it has a label with Recvr1 42.74. Could you please tell me what I have and is it possible to reprogram this to a different frequency in the 154.*** band Transmit and Receive. Or do I have junk and forget about it. Thank you in advance. Dad1Boy1Girl Jay n2orw Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] COR on HT600 for solar repeater
I've collected a couple of HT600's I'm planning on trying to use as a low power repeater, but don't have the manual yet. Anyone done anything similar, and are familiar with where to pickup the COR PL decode point? Also anyone done anything similar with a 220 radio (I'll need one for the link to the rest of the system), any preferences?A 3AT will not work, I need to be doing the reverse split, which it won't handle. Thanks Chuck n0nhj Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
