Dale,
Thanks. I checked and the top of my framing is parallel to the ceiling,
so I made the side jams perpendicular to the top jam. Actually, I need to
check that again. The side jams are definitely parallel, but I need to
take some diagonal measurements to be certain they are perpendicular
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 10:46:38 -0500 (EST)you write:
So, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I decided to rip down the canvas
wall paper covering, taking with it some 80 years of paint, including lots
of lead based paints. I sealed off the nursery, taping the door closed,
had a big box fan
Terry,
That was my first choice, remove the trim, strip it, and put it back.
Teresa didn't like that idea, she thought it would be more work, and that
there was a possibility of breaking some of the trim and needing to
replace it. Personally, after seeing how difficult it was to strip it, I
I would agree; replacement would have been the path of less resistance.
However, there is that peaceful, tranquil home environment
which must be maintained. :)
You have to go back to work so you can rest. :) Between you and Dale, you
guys make me look bad.
Terry
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009
Watch how you measure your diagonals. One side is likely to be longer than the
other if the floor isn't level.
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Level or square, pick
think of a man unemployed who would love to jump inm there and give
you a hand Dan. Lee
On Mon, Nov 09, 2009 at 10:46:38AM -0500, Dan Rossi
wrote:
So, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I decided to rip down the canvas
wall paper covering, taking with it some 80 years of paint, including
Good point Dale,
I would need to measure down from the top, the same distance on each side,
mark that, then measure the diagonals.
Technically, if the top jam is level, and the side jams are plumb, then
they should be square. But technically, and should sometimes don't get
you all the way
That's why God made shims.
Actually you can mount the track and doors before adding the side jams in most
cases because the hardware doesn't usually attach to the side jam although
sometimes it does.
You may be able to mount the doors offset by the thickness of the side jams
then once
Hello Dan. A little frustrated are we? Sit back, have a beer and I'll tell
you how I handled the paint stripping problem.
I cut the transom frames and windows off the existing door jambs and bought
new, pre hung doors, then luckily the transoms fit back over top of the new
doors.
The
Three cheers for Shims. In remodeling my 115 year old house, I couldn't get
along without them.
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:34 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re:
Oh Dan, just hearing you tell this story reminds
me of when I traded a perfectly good house for a
hundred year old apartment building. I don't
regret the trade, but the stripping of the window
paint just about killed me and I was only 30
years old. I thought my hands would never
recover.
Dale,
On the cobolt, I see no reason why the case has to be so frail, and why the
bottom
is so thick either.
We've looked at a couple print tapes and they don't use sprockets but we can't
tell what they're doing as it's all surface mount chips with the numbers
ground off.
On the printers with
Terry,
I didn't know about the starett tape with serial port!
I'll look into it, if you have a model number handy it might speed the research.
I'd bet some solution smaller than a laptop would be possible.
Back when i was looking at LCD readout tapes, I tried to get at Sterett
for help and
Forgot to comment on bar codes.
they may actually represent the specific measurement rather than just a
passing line which is only relative to the last passing line. That, along
with likely some error correcting scheme could be pretty good I'd think.
Tom
in a I must have the old trim, and make it look to match situation we
sent the trim away to be tank stripped. Cost a bit but no mess.
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009, Terry Klarich wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 10:46:38 -0500 (EST)you write:
So, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I decided to rip down
might this be good for external paint where one is very unlikely to do any
scraping? My outdoor rails white paint is cracking and flaking noticably.
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009, Tom Hodges wrote:
Hello Dan. A little frustrated are we? Sit back, have a beer and I'll tell
you how I handled the
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Ah yes, the domino effect. But you're doing it for the baby and take my word
for it there is no more special feeling than to hold a daughter. It's been 23
years now and I still remember that night.
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi
To: Blind Handyman List
Sent: Monday,
It's been awhile since we started this process, but having an
alternative bathroom slows progress.
I followed all of the great instructions offered here, and it was a
successful install. However, just a couple of things.
First, the thick rubber seal that goes between the tank and the stool
Howdy all, Thanks to all with the suggestion of using TSP, bleach and water
to clean the mold on the back of my home. It washed off nicely and with the
temps in the upper 60's here in Michigan it was a Great Day to do this
project...
Thanks for the help...
Now to remove the rust on another
A standard miter can cut the width of the blade or part of that width as some
goes beyond the fence.
A sliding compound can get close to 16 inches in some cases. I have a 12 inch
model and I'm between 15 and 16 inches in cross cut width.
- Original Message -
From: Alan Terrie
Bob,
Are the sliding compound units considerably larger in size and heavier in
weight?
Al
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 7:30 PM
To:
Most 10 inch models will cut 12 inch width at 90 degrees, 8 inches at 45.
12 inch models don't generally give much more but do give a bit more depth. My
old 10 inch will cut through a 4 by 12, I have never had such a piece of timber
but I have cut through 3 2 by 10s in a single pass several
A good bit heavier, and because of the rails to slide on, they do take up a bit
more room.
I had a Dewalt I think it was a 705. A 12 inch stationary compound miter. Had
because one of my houses was broken into while being remodeled and I had stuck
the saw in a closet. Someone got a
Yours is a slider isn't it?
- Original Message -
From: Dale Leavens
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Power Miter Saw
Most 10 inch models will cut 12 inch width at 90 degrees, 8 inches at 45.
12
Yes, a Makita about 18 years old now. I would take a12 inch as a gift but the
only time I ever really needed the extra length was while cutting some vertical
siding on an angle for my gable ends, I finished the cuts by hand. I have often
cut wider pieces of plywood by flipping them over and
Al, my sears will knock off a 1 x 12 on any angle you want. it must cut at
least 14 to 16 inches.
..bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Al, Al, Al,
I knew it. You retire. Then you ask about a set of battery operated
tools, like a circ saw and drill. Now you are asking about compound miter
saws. It's all over for you man.
Next, you will be coming up with projects to do that require you to
purchase new tools. Have Terry
congratulations on a job well done. Imagine if you were interviewed
while flying back and forth as to what you might be shopping for;
just fixing my toilet. way to go. Lee
On Mon, Nov 09, 2009 at
02:20:33PM -1000, Betsy
Whitney
wrote:
It's been awhile since we started this process, but
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