using the excess to fund the secret alien life
form cloning program. By the way. The six inch lens, while not small,
is not nearly as large as the 3 inch. I haven't checked it's coverage
yet, but I'm hoping it will allow some movement in 4x5.
Gene Johnson
Joseph O'Neil wrote:
At 12:12 01
ame for anyone else on the Cameramakers
list.
Gene Johnson
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and
small. Really small if we're only talking about the sensor part. I've
got some books, and this week amazingly, some time. Get back to me on
what we're switching.
Gene Johnson
Alan Zinn wrote:
At 07:19 AM 1/3/2001 +0100, you wrote:
Thanks for the answers I have already receive.
Here
Hi,
Someone suggested black puff paint of the type sold in craft stores to
make designs on fabric. Sounds like a potential winner, I intend to try
it myself soon.
Gene Johnson
kelvin wrote:
Hi all
This isn't quite following the other thread, but... I have
got an old Autographic 3A I am
Michael,
I had similar thoughts once that I never acted on. I wondered about
winding thin piano wire around a form to make a large weak spring in the
shape of a bellows, then stitching/gluing the fabric to it. Might work
for some applications. I'll have to try it someday.
Gene Johnson
I was gone for a while. Did anyone come up with anything on plans for
making a rollfilm back?
Gene
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: "Gene Johnson" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2001 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] Zen and the art of camera making
Hi Joel,
I was thinking about some frames I made that were about an inch deep. I
cut two splines an eighth inch w
Is it only the 5inch? I tried using a standard 2HD floppy and
discovered it was not opaque.
Gene Johnson
Alan Zinn wrote:
At 08:34 AM 2/18/01 +0100, you wrote:
For slit making I use external black plastic of 5 inch computer dicsquette
glued with super glue.
Michel DUSARIEZ
in San Diego, I'll check them out and if I find anything I'll let you
all know.
Gene Johnson
Huib Smeets wrote:
Hi,
Daniel: since the material is so flexibel, how do you make it rigid, do
those paper spacers realy last?
About the Micro-Suede:
It sounds like a fabric, sold here in Europe
a Metrogon once. By the way, try Surplusshed.com. They might
have a metrogon filter that would fit.
Gene Johnson
Joe Durante wrote:
Does anyone have a method to make a neutral density spot filter that
decreases as the diameter increases.?
Would cicles of gel filter material stacked work? .3n
tipped pen. Worked fine, but I'm starting to think I had it all
wrong.
Gene Johnson
Robert Mueller wrote:
A possibility nobody has suggested is measuring the light transmission.
This could be done with little more than a cheap photodiode and a sensitive
microammeter, maybe a filter and certainly
imagine that 2% or .004 of a stop would make much difference, can
you?
Gene Johnson
"G.Penate" wrote:
- Original Message -
From: "Andy Buck" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
fine tipped pen. Worked fine, but I'm starting to
think I had it all
wrong.
Theoretically
: Aperture Scale (Gene Johnson)
7. Re: Aperture Scale (Andy Buck)
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The reason I got curious about the point source is I have this nice 12v
100A light source with halogen bulbs. they're aligned in the housing
with some small condensers. But I'm hearing that I could probably buy a
used beseler 45 pretty cheap. I'm needing the 4x5 capacity because of
this camera
Good eye Wayde.
Yup that should have been 100W not 100A.
Gene
J. Wayde Allen wrote:
On Wed, 23 May 2001, Gene Johnson wrote:
The reason I got curious about the point source is I have this nice 12v
100A light source with halogen bulbs.
100 amps ... if so that is impressive. How you
This is wierd. We're having exactly the same discussion on my Rollei
Users Group List.
Michael King wrote:
Ansel Adams, John Sexton, Fred Picker, etc. don't seem to think so. The
f/64 group and their descendents eschewed the whole misty, soft focus school
of photography and all used
Thanks Junkman,
I may try to codge something together, just for fun. I'm monitoring
some Beselers on eBay, and so far they're not THAT cheap. We'll see. At
any rate this has been an interesting and educational discussion for me.
Gene
___
Peter,
There is clearly a lot about enlargers I don't understand. Wouldn't
anything on the plane of the negative, (i.e. dirt, image) be EXPECTED to
be in sharp focus on the print? I'm trying to understand how you could
have the IMAGE from the neg in sharp focus, but not scratches, dust
etc.
Welcome to the club.
Gene
peter davidoff wrote:
There is clearly a lot about enlargers I don't understand. Wouldn't
anything on the plane of the negative, (i.e. dirt, image) be EXPECTED to
be in sharp focus on the print? I'm trying to understand how you could
have the IMAGE from the
Junkman,
That's the best explanation I've heard so far. Makes perfect sense.
Gene
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Dear Gene:
I'm no scientist in the physics of light propagation. But as I
understand it,
it has more to do with the way in which the rays of light are sent
through
the plane of
be too hard to do. I still have the drawings for that
cupee(?) film holder... We need something that would hold the film real
flat. I'll draw something, and e-mail it to anyone interested. They
can have at it, and we can go from there. Anyone game?
Gene Johnson
Hey Sid,
Well right off I can't see any way I can get 5 film under the
groundglass, can you? I think this will have to work with a removable
groundglass. The film (let alone the holder) won't fit between the
springs for the groundglass. Do you agree?
Gene
Sid Washer wrote:
Okay, send me
Robert
I was thinking about that too. It sure seems like that might work great
but then I know right next door to nothing about this.
Gene
Robert Stoddard wrote:
Here's another idea: I have been intrigued by the possibilities of using
what are called compact fluorescent bulbs to form a
I know what you mean, But they look pretty much instant on.
Gene
M wrote:
Hi Gene,
This is very interesting: I have several of these lamps, but I have never
found one that had the tubes laid out flat-- mine are at 90-degrees to one
another, like at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock. If yours are
Robert,
You know,I think that may be changing. These bulbs seem very white.
Much whiter than other flourescents I've seen in the past. I'm seeing
other flourescents like this now too. I'm wondering if there has been
some improvement in the technology. Kind of hard to tell with the eye,
but I
Ronson lighter fluid. I've used Vaseline for the grease. Don't laugh.
It works pretty well. Great on camera body leather too.
Gene
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I put in the velcro material and it works great. I went to the tool site and
found what I had been looking for and will order some
What size threaded hole are you looking for?
Gene Johnson
Greg wrote:
I'm making a wood 4x5 field camera and I can't seem to be able to find
knurled brass knobs w/ a threaded hole. There are alot of plastic ones
but their a bit ugly. Any suggestions
be surprised. By the way , I've been shooting an old Rolleiflex
TLR.
Gene Johnson
Philip J. McCourt wrote:
Just wondering what type of BW sheet film you are using for your
cameras that you build. I have been using Tmax 100, and am not overly
happy with the results that it is giving me. Last
Hey Joe,
I agree completely. I also use a rapidfixer for 5 full minutes and wash
thoroughly for the same amount of time.
Gene
Joe Portale wrote:
T-Max 100 in Rodinal 1:50. Sharper than you can image, good tonal quality.
To exploit this combination use your best lenses.
The grain will
This looks interesting, Please keep us posted.
Gene Johnson
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hah! Glad to see there are some other crazies out there. As I see it, it's
all got to happen in one smooth, fairly simutaneous motion, or you might as
well use a view camera. That means mirror up
Lyndon,
Couldn't you put the contacts on the largest opening? I think that
uncovers the whole film. Kind of slow, but I should think it would
work.
Gene Johnson
Lyndon Fletcher (UAB) wrote:
Actually you can't X sync the rear shutter on a Graphlex. Unlike modern FP shutters
that open all
slow enough, etc. I've done that manually with an old TLR that had no
synch. The shots actually came out fine.
Gene Johnson
Lyndon Fletcher (UAB) wrote:
I think that the largest openning is for TIME exposures and for use of the front
shutter only. AFAIK it doesnt momentarily open and close
Andrei,
I see them on eBay from time to time, I don't know where else I would
look. I'll ask on the Cameramaker's list. Does anyone in CMG know where
one of these could be found?
Gene
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Folks,
I have a British friend who wants to purchase a 12 Commercial Ektar in
Hi All,
Bob Shell, a well known photographer and photography writer has started
a forum at www.beststuff.com/forum/index.php?f=3 I told him I would
tell everyone I know. Bob is a good guy and I'm sure any visits to the
forum by any of us would be appreciated. There are a number of sections
and a cam or something for fine.
Gene Johnson
Sid Washer wrote:
Hi: You could also use the toothed belt (or, better yet, 2 belts, one on
each side) in more normal fashion, running over 2 pulleys with the belt
attached to the moving part of the camera. Turn a knob fastened to the
pulley
Thank You Laszlo,
And all the others from abroad who have sent messages of support. I
don't want to sound like I'm responding on behalf of all the US or
anything but no one else said anything yet, so I guess I will. It's
nice to hear words of kindness from beyond our borders. I know it makes
Manuel,
The 5x7 aspect ratio is real close to 6x9. I'm guessing that a
viewfinder from an old Kodak folder or something might work o.k. for a
cheapie.
Gene
Manuel Estébanez wrote:
Hi all:
Where I can buy a viewfinder (cheap if possible) for my portable 5 x
7' Zone Plate camera (under
Robert,
I'm glad you brought up the why-so-thin question, because I was thinking
the same thing. If the faces of the glass are flat and parallel, I dont
think it makes that much difference whether there is 1 or 3 millimeters
of glass in between. Besides, 1mm thick glass is pretty darn fragile.
There is a nice low voltage solenoid inside the plastic pyramid shaped
Polaroid cameras. Also a nice little motor, some rollers and gears and
a great first surface mirror. I buy them at thrift stores all the time
for 1-3 dollars.
Gene
springtyme wrote:
Hello!
I could use some input. I
. These cameras
typically operate in the 65-85 lp/mm resolution range with Kodak plus-x
aero film.
Gene Johnson
george jiri loun wrote:
Finally said, thanks William!
George
- Original Message -
From: William Nettles [EMAIL PROTECTED]
re: glass panels at the film plane. I think we're all
can be obtained. It would have to be
thin, opaque, at least 5 inches wide, and not black on one side so we
can see the numbering. Any ideas?
Gene Johnson
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the diameter of the spool-plus-film will be increasing.
Even so, it should be easier than coming up with your own numbered backing
paper! RKS
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: cameramakers [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Cameramakers] 5 inch rollfilm backs
glass panels...
George
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 7:08 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Re:Air Force Recon Cameras/ film flattening
William and George,
I don't have any direct knowledge of any
Andy,
I think it is Aerial with extended red sensitivity or something like
that. Thanks for the tip. I've been thinking all kinds of thoughts
about how how to go about developing this stuff and the 500 ft of Aerial
copy film I already have. I think I have a few ways to go, I just have
to
Hi all,
The 5 inch film I'm thinking about buying is Plus-X Airecon II which
does have an .20 mil dyed gel backing. Does anyone have any
experience with this film?
Gene
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Jamie,
I went into the specs sheet on the Kodak website and it specifically
called out an anti-halation coating. Thanks.
Gene
James Young wrote:
Hi all,
The 5 inch film I'm thinking about buying is Plus-X Airecon II which
does have an .20 mil dyed gel backing. Does anyone have any
David,
I ran a PC-cillin program on my c drive and didn't come up with
anything. I don't know how safe I should feel though.
Gene
David Nicholson wrote:
Just want to alert you that I received a virus in this message.
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED
Roger and list,
I also have some Graflex parts scattered about. Got to love those big
focal plane shutters. Though, I think there was some discussion about
the Speed Graphic type shutter, and the predominant opinion was that it
was probably not possible. Does the RB D have a wide open slit in
Dwight,
Most of the old folders have them. If you're interested I have an old
one around here somewhere that would probably do the trick.
Gene
TSHACK wrote:
Does anyone know where I can get, or how I can make easily, the takeup
winder mechanism, i.e. the knob that only turns one way?
-
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] 120 Takeup winders wanted
Dwight,
Most of the old folders have them. If you're interested I have an old
one around here somewhere that would probably do
it to
work. Hobby shops that deal in RC planes usually have a good selection
of piano wire. If you get stuck for gears let me know, I have a surplus
store that has tons of them. Good luck.
Gene
TSHACK wrote:
- Original Message -
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED
Hello all,
I just got a Graflex magazine and a set of 12 septums from Steve
Grimes. He was selling it on eBay. I can find no earthly way to get the
septums into the magazine. There is a difference of about 1.5mm between
the inside of the magazine and the outside of the septums. That is, the
of an inch too tall to fit in the magazine. I'm pretty sure I
have some kind of mismatch going on, but I'm stumped as to what these
septums are for.
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
Gene Johnson wrote:
Hello all,
I just got a Graflex magazine and a set of 12 septums from Steve
Grimes. He
know AA's water bath technique, I will have to do some more
reading.
Gene Johnson
Robert Stoddard wrote:
You need a highly compensating developer (high dilution and infrequent
agitation) or the water-bath technique used by Ansel Adams. Both have the
effect of exhausting the developer
William,
Thanks for all the suggestions. Remember, this is aerial COPY film. It
doesn't actually go into an airplane. Makes no difference though, all
your thoughts are just as valid. I had some time today to do some
research, based on the suggestions given here. Interesting stuff out
there.
Fantastic stuff!
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
Has anyone on the NG taken a good look at the Silvestri line of
specialized MF cameras:
http://www.silvestricamera.com/
Much food for thought about how Silvestri does things and if their
techniqes can be adapted to a homebuilt camera.
Marv,
I've done just what you're doing. Mine is the coated 3 element Anaston
in the Kodamatic shutter and works amazingly well. Find a lens shade!
Flares pretty badly into the sun. You're right, it's a lot of camera
for the money. Looks nice too.
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
Just a couple of
Marv,
That's a hoot! I used the brass tube from the hobby store. Epoxied it
on! Well, if nothing else I can tell you your plan will work. f16 is
pretty sharp, f4.5 nice for partraits. You'll be pleasantly surprised,
I think. It's no Medalist Ektar, though.
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
Gene
Dingus
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Organization: @Home Network
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 11:00:57 -0700
To: cameramakers [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Cameramakers] industrial films
Hello Cameramakers,
I was wondering if anyone has had
a beautifully delicate tonal range that takes full advantage of
all the blacks, whites and middle tones afforded by your paper if tested and
handled carefully.
Good luck.
Best,
Rick Dingus
From: Gene Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Organization: @Home Network
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED
works pretty well. Groundglass would
probably would work, but you might need more than one to diffuse
adequately. Probably a very rough sandblasted glass would work best.
Hey, how about taking a disc sander to BOTH sides of a piece of
plexiglass? Hope something helps.
Gene Johnson
Philip J
Phil,
I'm not sure about the wavelength distribution, but there are a lot of
different flourescent replacement bulbs that would probably work with a
lot less heat. Some are sort of amber, some are fairly blue, but there
might be some nice full spectrum ones out there.
Gene Johnson
Philip J
DTS (Downtown Saddlery)
9345 Mission Gorge Rd.
Santee Ca. 92071
Ray or Kathy. They have quite a selection and will ship. What about
Goatskin? Very thin and flexible.
Gene Johnson
Michael Hendrickson wrote:
Hello,
I have yet another recommendation. History first: About 18 years ago I
in that case be just the aperture divided by the
focal length?
Gene Johnson
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the iris this
way will cost me a lot of coverage, but on this lens I may have it to
spare. Would the stops in that case be just the aperture divided by the
focal length?
Gene Johnson
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http
Hi Leonard,
Actually, this will be ok. This lens is so physically large I will not
be using any movements with it. I was really pleasantly surprised to
get f16. I was prepared to be happy with f8. The interesting thing
here, which is probably intuitive anyway, is the difference between
Cool Idea Marv!
Gene
Marv Soloff wrote:
Robert Stoddard wrote:
Marv,
As I recall the Focuspot, the light source sat on the top end of the
vertically mounted RF and shone its light through a little transparent port
directly along the axis of the RF. Because of the beam-splitter
Marv,
We think a lot alike. I've been looking at an old Polaroid rangefinder
camera I have here and wondered about putting a real lens and either a
rollfilm back or a 4x5 back on it. They're so sturdy and the
rangefinder is excellent. So these had a fl of 127mm? Hmm.
Gene
Marv Soloff
Excellent site! I will return there many times I'm sure. I will have
questions.
Gene Johnson
- Original Message -
From: John [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 3:33 AM
Subject: [Cameramakers] An intro
Hello !
I have been lurking around
a whole collection.
Gene Johnson
- Original Message -
From: Monte Collard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 12:09 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Ross 5 f4 Torpedo camera lens
I have had this lens for the last 25yrs. I had made friends with a man who
Do you happen to know what the light color temp is supposed to be for the
cold light heads? I keep looking at all these neat compact flourescent
lamps at Home Depot, and wondering if they would work. I've seen some that
have the deg K on the packaging, though I can't remember just what they
Hi,
Depending on how much focusing you need, you might be able to do something
with the compression fitting for a sink drain.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Larry Pat Nieland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 5:16 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers]
Hi All,
Great info on the Aero Ektar. I've been looking for a deal on one of those
for a while myself. Gonna be harder now. I am just putting the finishing
touches on a 4x5 ( Man I'm slow) that uses Aero lenses. There are quire a
few Aero lenses available right now. The Military is going
sized chunk of glass. I don't have a lot of time right now, but I would be
happy to get you some dimensions as soon as I can.
Gene Johnson
- Original Message -
From: Dr Carlo Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 2:56 AM
Subject
When you say diameter, are you talking about the diameter of the glass lens,
or are you referring to the housing?
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Dr Carlo Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Dr Carlo Kopp
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 5:29 AM
Subject:
Definitely a U-2, almost for sure not a KS-87 (too early), But I've never
heard for sure which camera(s) were used.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Murray [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:30 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] military aerial surveillance
That would have been the famous Hycon B. I suspected that but didn't know
til now. As far as I know it was made specially for the U-2 and no other
plane.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Fox, Bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 2:20 PM
Subject:
be achievable
with some simple machining.
Long F. Dia R. Dia.
6 3.75 6/4.5 3.55
3 7.75 6/5.125 4.25
12 7.64.75 4.2
Hope this helps.
Gene Johnson
From: Dr Carlo Kopp [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL
Murray,
In theory, you want it as close as possible. The farther away you get from
the film, the less efficient the shutter becomes. The other way to go is
use the fp shutter as close as possible to the back of your lens. I guess
you just call it a shutter then. For us giant lens guys that
(Uptown Gallery)
2. Re: focal plane spacing, Fairchild shutter question (Gene Johnson)
--__--__--
Message: 1
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 00:57:54 -0400
Subject: [Cameramakers] focal plane spacing, Fairchild shutter question
I would use a slow slide film and bracket with your Aero and a known lens.
Compare the two and you should have an idea. I have a 7 inch (2 actually)
Aero E. and I doubt it the darkening is a half a stop. I think the real
slowing might come from trying to use a color correction filter. I've
Wouldn't that get you a Rapid Rectilinear? I've seen shots taken with these
lenses which were pretty impressive. I was interested in something similar
a while back and went so far as to glue some achromats to either side of an
old Agfa shutter. the fl is approximately half the fl of the
I forgot some things. I mounted mine with the convex surfaces facing each
other, and got them as close together as possible. I was mimicking the
design of a Plossle telescope eyepiece, and only later learned that this was
basically the same design as the Rapid Rectilinear type design. The (fl1
Will,
I'm just finishing up a lens board for a 178 Aero Ektar so I can use it on
my 4x5 View camera. I figure I can use a derby shutter for 1/2 sec and
longer exposures. With 50 speed film at f16, I'll have to wait till the sun
gets low, or shoot in the shade, or use it for night shots at
Before you give up on the lith film, try Windisch developer. It's a simple
catechol/sodium hydroxide developer that compensates like crazy and worked
well for me on some really high contrast copy film.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Frank Earl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
How do you operate the controls of the shutter with it behind the lens? I
just tried an Alphax on the front of a7 inch Aero Ektar and got quite a bit
of vignetting. I'd be curious about trying it on the rear. The rear
element is quite a bit smaller than the front one.
Gene Johnson
Hi All,
Earthmother's posts inspired me to find an Alphax shutter from a scope
camera for 20 bucks. I had to clean it to get it to work, but it does now
work fine. I have tried it at the front and rear of a 7 inch f2.5 Aero
Ektar. On a lens this fast with huge elements, I definitely get less
Hi Robin,
I don't have my notes with me, but I recall there
was the standard, and " Ansel Adams" dilutions. The Ansel setup worked
best. Best bet it to do a half dozen exposures of the same scene with a
renge of exposures and play with the time and dilutions. You'll come up
with something
Hi All,
I found an interesting lens at the local swap meet yesterday. It is a
Bausch and Lomb 40 inch Telestigmat f8 with yellow dot. Of course it is
huge, with 5 1/2 inch diameter barrel and 5 inch front lens, the barrel is
about 8 1/4 inches long. Someone had rigged it with ABS pipe and a
I'm going to disagree a little with Nick. If you use really nice plywood,
It's fairly nice, and very strong. Joints are always the problem. I've used
closely spaced tiny dowels at a 45 on the corners with good results, and
gussets on the inside where practical work well too. I've also used
I have the same camera. the 616 Monitor and Vigilant used the same lens.
Might be tight for 4x5, I could test it on my Horseman easy enough if you're
not in a big hurry.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Robert Stoddard [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2002
Are you able to use filters for variable contrast paper?
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Frank Earl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2002 5:03 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Making a cold light head.
I was given a Beseler 45m in pieces. After assembly I
Sounds pretty good!
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Frank Earl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 5:19 PM
Subject: [Cameramakers] Making a cold light head - Reply to Gene Johnson
The GE bulbs put out light at 3200K as near as I can
tell
Did we ever talk about using LED's for an enlarger? They have some pretty
bright ones now. Maybe a real dense array of say white,blue,green yellow
red. Maybe some could be turned off to change contrast? Just wondering out
loud.
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Uptown Gallery [EMAIL
Kenneth,
I've often thought that for some large lenses, that
this might be the way to go. Buy an old Speed graphic body and stick it behind a
large process lens.Just build it into the front standard. Adjust the
position of the individual lenses with the configuration of the lensboard to get
Nope,
He's right. I have some warped formica sitting on the side of my house.
It's not as severe as wood, but too much for us. I've seen bunches of old
circuit board blanks for sale cheap in surplus stores around here. Dense
fiberglass with a copper sheath. Definitely flat and bend/warp proof.
Big camera people. I have some big film I
would like to let someone try out. It's X-ray copy film from Konica
(SR-DUP). There's just about no data on it from Konica. My
understanding is that it's just what you would guess. A giant
orthochromatic slide. Since it's for duplicating x-rays, it
Thanks
Gene
- Original Message -
From: Cedric Malitte [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Cameramakers] message from Nettles. KV! etc.
Nope no virus attached in the message.
On Fri, 27 Sep 2002 07:21:50 -0700, Gene
Really,
that sounds like a REALLY useful material. Did you catch the tensile
strength? That's in the aircraft grade aluminum neighborhood! I can think
of a lot of uses for that stuff. I think I'll be ordering some. Probably
make great lensboards too.
Gene
- Original Message -
From:
Hi All,
I have gotten an R.B. Telegraflex which I'm fitting
with a 210mm Repromaster process lens for portraits. I remember one of the
members re-engineered a Super D so he could get flash synch. I recall it
as being really clever and was wondering if that member could get in touch so I
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