Sounds like you nailed it. I wouldn't change anything.
Joel
On Friday, August 15, 2014, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi
>
> The max RPM is 3200 and we could get to that value no problem, didn’t want
> to hold it there for too long, just a few minutes. We did a 20 min test at
> 3000 RPM wher
Gators are a lot more docile than you think.
When my younger daughter was about 11, she did a school report on the
Everglades. I took her on an 18-mile bike trip through Shark Valley in
Everglades National Park.
Well, the cover of the report was a photo of her standing there in her bike
helmet
It is hard to say but a dirty bottom CAN be that big of an effect.
Josh
On Aug 15, 2014 6:20 PM, "Paul Baker via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> Any 27MkII folks out there with a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel? What prop do you
> have on there, and is it able to achieve max rpm under load? I can't
> recal
The best I can do is while nearly asleep in the quarterberth at my slip, I
heard the unmistakable sound of a carp slamming full speed into the rudder. The
next morning it lay dead in the water near my boat. Big too.
No alligators in Lake Winnipeg, just sea monsters.
Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
I just worked on a Yanmar (model unknown) starter. There was a relay or
something on the side of the block under the starter. The wire (white) from
the start side of the key switch went to the relay. Another wire (orange) went
from the relay to the solenoid.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandevil
So, what exactly is a "moderately sized alligator"? To me, anything
bigger than a pet store size is bigger than a "moderately sized
alligator". We don't have much in Lake Michigan that wants to eat us!
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
538243
On 8/15/2014 8:42
Hi Folks,
Any 27MkII folks out there with a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel? What prop do you have
on there, and is it able to achieve max rpm under load? I can't recall what I
have (3 blade but don't know size/pitch) but at 2700rpm I am billowing black
smoke and still only doing 5kts. Dirty bottom is go
Hi
The max RPM is 3200 and we could get to that value no problem, didn’t want to
hold it there for too long, just a few minutes. We did a 20 min test at 3000
RPM where we held 6.8 knots. No problems were found and although very loud she
ran well. There was no current, wind or waves to speak o
The fuse to which we are all refering is upstream of the key switch. If
you hear a buzzer/low oil pressure alarm then the fuse is fine. I would
check voltage going to the panel and voltage back to the start solenoid.
As Dwight suggested the button could be bad so a resistance check across
the but
Check the starter button. Also inline fuses. bad contacts,not just blow
fuses can cause this.
On Friday, August 15, 2014, Brad Crawford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I switch the key on, the alarm buzzer buzzes as normal, I depress the
> start button, and the only thing I see
I switch the key on, the alarm buzzer buzzes as normal, I depress the start
button, and the only thing I see or hear, is the lights light up on the control
panel. No clicking sounds, no starter sounds, nothing. I will check out and
go through the start circuit wiring.
Thanks,
Brad
C&C
Bill
Are those speeds in flat water with no significant current?
I can't comment specifically on the Max prop but I have a nominal 30 hp
Universal M4-30 diesel engine in my 35 MKII and I use a 3 blade Autoprop,
which is self pitching so it chooses for itself what is the proper pitch for
a
Oh and resetting the pitch means another haul (more money). Live with it
at least till next season's haul.
Josh
On Aug 15, 2014 12:30 PM, "Bill Hoyne via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Hi All,
> Here are the results of my Max Prop issues.
>
> I have a C&C 35 Mk II with a Volvo Penta 2003 28hp with a 2.4:1
Be careful over pitching it cause continuously running the engine below 80%
of full load can cause other problems such as coking up the exhaust elbow
and glazing the cylinders. Lots of people like the idea of over pitching
the prop to run a little faster at a lower rpm. I say, the difference in
s
> Could it be heat related.
As the temp rises so does the DC resistance. If the start / run wiring has
loose or corroded connections or undersized / corroded wires they may pass
enough voltage and current to work at lower temperatures but not when hot.
A starter solenoid may suffer from voltag
Bill,
Couple thoughts:
If you are getting a max of 3000 rpm you already have too much pitch. I
would not go up; I might go down one click.
You should cruise at 80% of max rpm or 2500-2600 rpm.
I have a 35/3 with a max-prop set to 14 degrees, but my reduction gear is
2.6:1 I get to 3500 rpm with
When I blew my diodes, the engine controls charging light came on...
The guy I bought my alternator from is still on Ebay Just search for
Yanmar 3GM30 Alternator on eBay. He's selling them for $120.00 free
shipping for a 55 or 60 amp brand new fully insulated Hitachi. I think
Hitachi is the O
Hi All,
Here are the results of my Max Prop issues.
I have a C&C 35 Mk II with a Volvo Penta 2003 28hp with a 2.4:1 reduction MS2B
transmission max RPM is 3200. The prop is a left rotation. The Max Prop is 14”
and set to 24 deg (X=C, Y=E). This gives 11.6” pitch. The original settings
were way
I read that here on an earlier C&C thread - but I thought that
you could switch between 1 - both - 2 without a problem - just
don't flip through the "off" position.
I did find a MaineSail article on SailBoat Owners where he
describes re-wiring the sw
Sorry, I guess I should have more accurately referred to it as a secondary
starting solenoid.
Josh
On Aug 15, 2014 11:00 AM, "Josh Muckley" wrote:
> Do you have a separate starting relay? I think it was on this list that
> someone was saying that the wires, push button and key switch are not
>
Do you have a separate starting relay? I think it was on this list that
someone was saying that the wires, push button and key switch are not
robust enough for the starter. A secondary relay solves this and prevents
drawing too much current. You'll probably never have to even look at the
fuse ag
Thought most were make before break switches
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: August 15, 2014 10:34 AM
To: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com; cnc-list
Too true, and the alternator can seem ok while charging. Happened to us on a
friend's boat in Florida this winter. Took the alternator to a Miami alternator
shop, they put it on a machine, it produced 14.7 V and they said it was ok. We
later discovered that the alternator was getting warm every
Lower output in measured DC Amps.
For the more electrically savvy, higher ripple as now you have less than 6
diodes rectifying.
On a better quality and higher output alternators, like balmar, amptech etc,
you can see them built into the body, shiny circles with numbers on them,
sometimes
The most common cause of diode failure on older boats is turning the battery
1-2-all switch while the engine is running. This causes a brief period of no
load on the alternator and blows the diodes. Jerry C&C 27 V
-Original Message-
From: Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List
To: Burt Strat
Got to love it. Adventure !!!
On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 8:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Finished a couple boat jobs yesterday and decided to go out on the lake
> for a late afternoon sail. Not much breeze but a pleasant sail nonetheless.
>
> After the pleasant un
Also, you will notice that your batteries will discharge much faster than
normal when used sail if it is the blocking diodes that have failed as the
alternator will become a very large drain.
Jack Fitzgerald
C&C 39 TM
Savannah, GA
On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 8:36 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc
Finished a couple boat jobs yesterday and decided to go out on the lake for
a late afternoon sail. Not much breeze but a pleasant sail nonetheless.
After the pleasant uneventful sail, I entered Mandeville Harbor afterwards
(30 20' 50", 90 03' 46"). There was a guy on the seawall fighting a fish.
Simple answer:
Most do have internal diodes. To be sure you can google the part number of the
alternator or look it up on the manufacturers web site.
You should see around 13.5 to 14 ish volts across your starting battery
terminals when running. It will vary a little depending on the cond
The thread on alternators got me to ask myself, "how do you known if you have
an internal diode on alternator, and how do you know if "blown?"
I am, electrically challenged, admittedly.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Sent from my HTC
___
This List is provided by
Take a look at Spider Marine. They have a new Hitachi 60Amp alternator for the
3GM30 listed for $120.
http://www.spidermarine.com/inventory/search/make/yanmar%20marine/model-and-submodel/3gm30/year//liters/0/engine-type/any/fuel-type/any/aspiration/a
--
Paul E
C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Ro
Hi, I bought mine on ebay last year. I paid 85-90 bucks shipped. It's a genuine Hitachi 55 or 60 amps fully insulated with the exact same connections / look / mounting as the original Yanmar (I think they are made by Hitachi). I took the opportunity to throw in a new belt as well. It was a plug and
Everyone:
Thanks for the input. I replaced the 30 amp fuse like i was instructed and
it started up right away. Brad brings up a good point. Could it be heat
related. I guess I should have tried starting it before replacing the
fuse, but i immediately changed the fuse and it worked. I looked at
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