Hi Francois,
Please get that information? The rain gutter sounds interesting. did he use
screws?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, "cenelson"
Sent: Thursday, F
3M makes a product just for removing silicone residue. Acetone doesn't
really work very well. Even with the 3M product, getting all the residue off
is a fastidious process but essential if you are going to get anything else
to stick.
And as someone else said, don't even think of 5200. It won't
If anyone is interested, including you Paul, I actually have 3 mufflers out in
my storage shed that are available. Two were purchased when I installed the
current Universal M35 in my 38 mkII back in 2011, and the third is the muffler
that was taken out of the boat.
The old muffler is a Weste
Well, I was using Finite Element Analysis in the early seventies; Cassion was
an aeronautical engineer (I think) so he’d know how to do it.
But you’re right, I doubt they got into that much detail back then.
…but then again these are still pretty hot boats!!!
sam :-)
From: Graham Col
Maybe, but the 80s was the infancy of finite element design - which one
would want to use to properly evaluate the stiffening effects of rigid
windows. Given that using computers for hull layout was new I really
doubt that this is an engineered in property. Maybe Rob can comment on
that?
As
Engineers know stuff! sam :-)
Hi Charlie,
My 34+ were replaced a few years back (Same design as yours) and they were
glued in place. It was done by the "Guru" on the lake and they are tight /
waterproof after about 5 years..
I was told that it was a very difficult thing to do as there is a curve on
the portlights. I was
Hi Fred,
B&G / Navico has it too: http://www.bandg.com/en-US/Products/ForwardScan/
It integrates with the Zeus 2 Chartplotter.
-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferenc
Bob:
For the sailing I do, if I have to choose from doing the window
replacement job once with Sika or some other similar adhesive, and no
more window leaks, versus any perceived extra structural integrity of my
boat, I choose the 'no leak option'
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
Interesting question Dwight. The front windshield on my car is supposed
to be an integral part of the car's safety accessories and yet it is
glued in place by a Sika product. Sika is good enough for automobile
insurance companies and the marine insurance companies probably don't
care what we
I used BoatLife 10 years ago on my frameless ports and nary a leak since then...
David F. Risch
181 40
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 15:39:00 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Just to add to others' experi
Just to add to others' experience with frameless fixed port lights, my Landfall
38 is a 1983 vintage and I have owned it since 1986. Since 1986 I made two
port light replacements using 3/8-inch thick cast acrylic and plexus before
making my last and final fix without Plexus (about 13 years ago)
Dwight — if I might jump in here, my understanding is that the glued-in acrylic
ports became a unified part of the cabintop structure, and stiffened the
structure; NOT that they made the boat stiffer in terms of sailing
characteristics.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall
Funny...I live in Marion and all three of my kids graduated from ORR.
I will keep my eyes open for candidates. Thanks for the heads up!
David F. Risch
1981 40
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2015 14:15:08 -0500
Subject: Stus-List old Rochester High sailing
Sorry, my earlier note never went out. That link in my previous note is a
document I got presumably by being part of this list. Was wondering if
anyone else or whom else got this. I have no issues with it, just wish I was
qualified. What a fun job that would be! I know one of our listers is in
Matt
Rick
Is it really true that the designers at C&C expected glued on acryllic
ports to stiffen the whole boat
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I h
Can't attach a pdf.
Here is a link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1jlbdmQzvxLUEI1dXd6bXNaLVU/view?usp=sharin
g
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
I went the Plexus route and I was very pleased with the results. The gun was
air powered making it easy to use and the newer products have a better working
time than the original stuff. I'm on 4 years and happy.
This is my second attempt however. In the original job I think I squeezed too
much
Hi Wally.
I am interested. I have a C&C 30-1 with an Atomic 4. Currently I am using a
Gori
2 blade 11.5 x 8 but would consider getting a second one as a spare.
If you get the right wave direction at the mouth of the Niagara River it can
produce
some huge standing waves. I am not sure what p
Let me guess: When you went over the wave and the prop broke the surface, the
engine started to race and kept racing after the prop went back down?
That is exactly what happens with an outboard in waves (separate recent
discussion on the list) and the situation is the result of cavitation. The
Alan,
I have a two-blade Gori that I took off our 30 Mk 1 years ago that you can get
at a good price. We don't race and it folded once too often while my wife was
docking.
It is sized for an Atomic 4. I have no idea where it is but I can look for it
if you are interested.
We had an interesting
For all the people on the list that have had some success with the Sika option,
I’m with Rick: the original Plexus solution still seems to be the best option
to me, so long as it’s done carefully and with the correct materials. This
means that you need to use cast, not extruded acrylic for the
Charlie
A simple solution for a boat that already has screws?
OK. The J/27 we had has a very simple window setup. Like many other systems
on these boats it is simple design and easy to work with. The windows are
literally screwed in place and bedded with silicone. If I detected a leak I
wo
My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was
paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws
involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the
windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure.
Some of them are beginnin
I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less
stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker
to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a
similar thread has been lost here.
The frameless windows were
25 matches
Mail list logo
