As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe
wrench. I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight. It is about 4 years
old and looking pretty rough. I think it will last at least through till
next year.
Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the
"Any one else with an early 80's 34' and a 1 inch shaft want to tell
what size packing they use."
Don,
I have 1984 C 32 with a 1" prop shafttypical stuffing
boxreplaced with 3/16"3 strandsfirst two strands went in but
when I put in the 3rd strand, I couldn't not thread the
Hello John
Thank-you for the reply. We started with three strands but had the problem of
dripping in idle but not once running and warmed up. So we added another. The
idea being we could loosen it off more but still stop the drip when stopped.
At least that was our logic at the time. Didn't
1+ on this from Dennis! Been there and done that when I replaced T-handle with
pressure gauge.
My diesel mechanic (having replaced/tightened all other fittings) suggested
replacing the Racor filter top.
Done and problem gone--when Racor says hand-tighten this top--PAY ATTENTION.
Sometimes
Racor 500 fuel filter tops can warp over time allowing air to leak in. If
the T-handle is over-tightened, it can cause the top to become concave.
Lay a flat across the underside of the top and see if the center is
depressed (raised if the top is upside down). If so, you can't tighten the
Don
RE: packing - you may have too much in the stuffing box. Our 34 has a 1
inch shaft. We use 3/16 Teflon packing (much better than flax). 3 strands
cut at 45 degrees with joints staggered. Works just fine. Takes a few
adjustments to get the correct drip - none when at rest a few drops per
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the great resource to heat exchanger maintenance.
FWIW, I keep several 1/8" wooden dowels aboard (Walmart or Michaels) to ream
out the scale buildup in the heat exchanger of my Universal M4-30. It makes a
huge difference cleaning the tubes out and I do that each fall after
They typically are rectangles, thin sheet metal, and when they flex, over time
they can open up the welds, depending on where they are on the tank.
Especially when there are baffles involved. The only really safe tank would be
cylindrical, with elliptical heads. Which of course doesn’t work
I replaced the countertop and Icebox lid with Blue Corian, looks great. The
formica was delaminating.
Haven’t replaced the sink counter yet, but have the Corian for it, the next
owner can handle that.
Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1
I am wondering if anyone has
Looks like
Sodium metasilicate - pentahydrate 6834-92-0 < 5% 2 MG/M3 8 HR
TWA AS NAOH
2 Butoxyethanol 111-76-2 < 5 % 25 ppm SKIN
FWIW I like the multifunction nature of the i70. You can reconfigure the
display to include many or few data points, page through different layouts,
etc. One instrument rather than several, and with a nmea 2000 backbone its
future proof. (Ish).
Don’t have wind inst (yet) but would first
Pictures of the access hatch I installed several yeas ago are now posted in a
Dropbox folder (named C) which you can view here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/44pjga1qixliadz/AACVsjFhGwprwuDydjV-yF5Xa?dl=0
The dimensions of the hatch are approximately 17 X 12.5 inches. What looks like
the
Dave,
Yes, broken heat exchanger anodes is a common issue. Happens on Touche'
frequently. :(
First, you can simply take a dowel or rod and tap the anode piece into the
exchanger. Depending on how many other anode bits are in the exchanger,
you may be fine. HOWEVER, IF this has been done a
I had a nice weather day yesterday so decided to get a head start on spring
projects. Nothing went smoothly (what else is new):
#1- I tried to replace the Raritan water heater anode. This is the first time
I have tried to do it in the 5 years I have owned the boat, so unknown when was
the
Yes, I know that it is old, but it appears to be in excellent condition. In
fact, it looks new except for the gauge. I have searched the internet over the
past few days, and found almost nothing online, mainly a few bits about the
history of the company and the fact that it folded over 30
Persistence has the i50/i60 series and previous boat had the ST60 series.
I50/i60 are very nice to use and easy to read. I think the ST60 is a bit more
robust though. The i50/i60 series are mounted with four tiny screws on the
corners that are covered by a bevel whereas ST60 had much more
I would make sure it looks like it belongs on a boat. Modern is nice but a LOT
of household materials look odd on a boat and may make the boat more difficult
to sell when that time comes. OTOH if it is done right and has a nice look and
feel it may make the boat less difficult to sell.
Mike
Nice article on batteries in winter. Thanks for the clarity.
> On December 2, 2018 at 10:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Another decent article on winter self-discharge can be found here:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge .
>
>
>
> Not on
That was me who suggested air in the racor. I had similar problems and
continue to. My solution was to simply make venting the filter easier and
more effective. If I vent every month or two then not enough air ever
accumulates to cause problems.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m50s
Air is
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