There's lots of room to anchor in Gig Harbor, and it's free.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Nov 30, 2019 at 12:36 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi list,
> We made a late decision to join the Gig Harbor Christmas Boat Parade and
rts are from 1985...
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
> Original message ----
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
> Date: 11/10/19 5:27 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: C
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated
> co
I have Geico Insurance through BoatUS. Agreed value is agreed value. They
only depreciate items that are depreciable, like sails or the engine. A
couple of years ago, my boom cracked after getting hung up on a crab pot.
Geico paid the full cost of replacing the boom - parts and labor, with no
I used 9mm cast acrylic, applying it with Plexus. Don't use extruded, as
it's weaker. Lexan is stronger than acrylic, but it scratches more easily.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 7:38 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I'm getting a new antenna, and can use the cable if it's not spoken for. I
already made a donation to Stu, but I'll make another one.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Oct 29, 2019 at 5:34 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> is that for
There's a C 24 for sale at Rose City YC in Portland, Oregon. Price is
$5500. For more info contact Jim Johnsrud at (503) 281-2610.
Also, there's a C 35 Mk III for sale by Jake Brdersen In Virginia. Price
is $25,500. For more information contact the broker, Ron McClain, at (757)
434-2007.
Alan
Wally is in La Cruz De Huanacaxtl, about 25 km from Puerto Vallarta. I miss
his list entries.
Alan Bergen
On Sun, Oct 6, 2019 at 8:04 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Yes, I heard from Wal a couple of weeks ago, and he mentioned that he
> doesn’t want to pay
Thanks for the reminder, Stu, and thanks for all you do for us.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland,OR
On Wed, Oct 2, 2019 at 2:41 PM Stu via CnC-List
wrote:
> Listers
>
> For us Canadians, Thanksgiving celebrations are just a few days away. And
> it is time to get out your
I sent Wally a Facebook message, asking about his web site. Hopefully it's
still around some place.
On Mon, Sep 30, 2019 at 11:17 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects
> and sent his
Since you have never been able to get it up to maximum rpm, it does sound
like it's over pitched.
If your engine speed is now lower than before, it might be your filters. I
use a 10 micron primary, and a 2 micron secondary. You might also make sure
all your fuel lines are tight, and that you're
The bilge pump and blower might have a common return. Follow the (probably)
black wires from the bilge pump and the blower to see whether you have a
bad ground.
The blower on my boat has an in-line fuse, located close to the blower
switch, if you want to check that out.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III
Try the easy stuff first:
Empty your water tanks, dry out the bilge, and see whether it's still
filling.
If you've been getting heavy rain, perhaps it's just water entering the
mast and draining into the bilge. Is there any moisture around the mast
step?
Shine a light on the stuffing box and see
BoatUS is having a Labor Day sale on lettering and graphics. 30% off till
September 6. They did mine, and I am happy with the job they did.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
It could be your mixing elbow. Remove it and see whether it's clogged. If
yes, you can scrape it out, or have a radiator shop boil it out.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 5:14 PM Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My 2GMF
Go to Sailrite's web site. They have "How To" videos, including one on
making cushions, including how to measure for the amount of yardage you'll
need.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 6:24 AM Dave S via CnC-List
wrote:
> Good morning all. Has
Rustoleum in a spray can. You can get it in flat and glossy black.
Alan Bergen
On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 9:20 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty
> around the perimeter. It is not available in a
When mine slipped, I replaced the belt, and it cured the problem. If you
want to tension the belt, you have to remove the rubber(?) plug, and there
is a cam that you adjust. The lever on mine has been popping out since I
bought the boat (nineteen years ago). I use one of those things that feels
Congratulations on your purchase.
Check and replace all hoses that look old, especially fuel fill hose and
cockpit drain hoses. You can get a service kit for your bilge pump. it's an
easy fix. In fact all of the things you mentioned are things you can do
yourself, if you're handy. That being
Are you referring to Salem, OR, or Salem, MA? If Salem, OR. I can recommend
Alison Mazon (503) 358-6983 or Joe Derie (503) 953-4008. I've used both of
them, and they are excellent, reliable surveyors. They're both in Portland,
but that's only about thirty-five miles from Salem.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk
I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On
Two possibilities:
1. It's possible that any loose wiring near the sheave at the top of the
mast is getting pulled into the sheave. It happened to me, and I had to
splice all the wires at the masthead. Try pulling the halyard back down.
Even a little will help. Then tension the wiring from where
I seem to recall you remove it by unscrewing the handle from the other
side. The handle and square, threaded shaft are one unit, and unscrew
together.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Mon, Jul 1, 2019 at 7:04 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I got my replacement pump from this company: https://marinepumpdirect.com/.
Looks identical to the Yanmar pump, at half the price.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 11:12 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Shawn
>
>
>
> We attach our main halyard
Here's my write up, from when the repair was done many years ago:
Dropped the keel. Flushed out the keel bolt holes. The forward bolt hole
(which was under the mast) had a void around it, and a terrible smell when
it was flushed out. The yard ground the surface of the keel and the stub,
filled
If you have a slot in the mast extrusion, you can drill a hole through from
port to starboard, and insert a clevis pin. It's easily replaceable if you
lose it, and it's only a couple of dollars.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 10:40 AM Sam Salter
Sounds like the sender. I replaced mine this year.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Jun 6, 2019 at 7:25 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off
> after
I have crew driving to Tacoma, tomorrow morning for the Summer Vashon race.
Let me know if you want to join us. It's a day race, and they'll return to
Portland tomorrow.
Alan Bergen
Thirsty
503-358-6981
On Fri, May 31, 2019 at 10:31 AM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
If you have a charger that senses the batteries' charge, you'll do no harm
if you keep it on all the time. I keep my charger and refrigeration on all
the time. The power for them are not routed through the master switch. The
rest of the boat is powered off. I pay a fixed amount for electricity,
Will a Shop Vac work?
On Wed, May 29, 2019 at 8:59 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Speaking of fuel issues, I recently drained my Racor MA 500 (?) fuel/water
> separator and replaced the filter element. The bottom of the bowl had what
> looks like several black
My previous boat with an A4 engine would slow down or stall, when running
at full throttle. When i backed off on the throttle, the engine ran fine.
Problem turned out to be a clogged filter on the end of the pickup tube.
Cleaned it out, and the engine ran fine after that. Did C put filters on
the
> Alan,
> How long did it take to get your Max prop refurbished? I need to do mine
> and am debating whether to do it know or wait till winter.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Sv Rebecca Leah
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
>
> ---- Original mess
I recently had my three blade Max-prop refurbished. My engine was running
rough, so I thought it might have been the cutless bearing. While the boat
was out of the water for bottom paint, the yard noticed the prop blades
were wobbly and the shaft was worn, in addition to the worn cutless
bearing.
Keep in mind that your shaft was machined for the Maxi. Another prop may
not fit.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk iii thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Mon, May 27, 2019 at 6:33 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello listers...anyone have a fixed three blade propeller, 16x9 RH
I keep an air freshener in the head. I also noticed that the hoses
sometimes collect moisture on the outside, which become mildewed and emit
an odor. Bleach corrects that problem.
On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 10:05 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I like the idea of
I mounted mine just forward of the keel. It was solid glass
.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 3:12 AM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I placed a transducer on our 41 just behind the keel sump on the
> centerline. It
Sailrite has a "How To" video for window curtains at:
https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Make-Boat-Interior-Curtains-Video.
I replaced my accordion shades, and it was a big improvement. While you're
at it, look at all the other videos on the Sailrite site.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Make sure the cables are aligned so that they aren't rubbing on the
quadrant. Then lube the cable, chain and turning blocks with motor oil.
There should also be a delrin washer around the rudder post, under the
collar that keeps the rudder from falling down. You said you don't have a
grease cup,
I've sailed my boat along the coast of Washington, no more than fifteen
miles offshore. In my more than fifty years of sailing, the waters along
the Washington coast are the worst in which I've ever sailed. Strongest
winds I've ever encountered were forty-two knots true, sailing DDW in the
Straits
Take the through hulls apart, and clean them up. I just did that with one
of mine. Some people use a lubricant on them - mineral oil, teflon
lubricant, but I don't.
On my boat, I'd be more confident using the original rigging, than making
new rigging myself. Since it's easy enough for you to take
I replaced my panels with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) from Home
Depot. Easy to cut with a saber saw using blades with fine teeth. I used 1"
Velcro to hold the panels in place. Liquid Nails adhesive works well, even
over adhesive, from the old Velcro, that I couldn't get off.
The water
I recommend you have a surveyor look at that. The crack tells me you have a
bigger problem than you might think. The small cost will at least give you
peace of mind if it's nothing for you to worry about.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 8:07 AM
My boat has inspection panels, about 6" square that gives me access to the
through bolt chain plate nuts. Not sure if you could do something similar
with your boat.
Regarding the headliner, I replaced the thin plywood panels, that got
weathered by leaks, with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic),
. We'll hope for the rendezvous.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 07:51, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jim:
>>
>> I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after
For those of you who need line, today is West Marine's last day of sale -
40% off on selected line.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 4:49 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Many thanks to all for their input.
Hi Jim:
I hope you and Anne can come to the RVYC BBQ after the race. Else we'll get
together at the rendezvous.
Alan
On Sun, Apr 7, 2019 at 7:36 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List
wrote:
> We'll have to connect! Looking forward to seeing you and Thirsty again.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk
Hi Lee:
I'll be cruising, after the race, till mid August. Hope to see you at the
rendezvous.
Alan
On Sat, Apr 6, 2019 at 9:23 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Go Alan and Thirsty - What fun!
>
>
> On Apr 6, 2019, at 8:30 18AM, ALAN BERGEN vi
The 193 mile Oregon Offshore race will begin on Thursday, May 9. The race
starts in Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia river, and ends in
Victoria, BC. Two C's are entered: Thirsty, a C 35 Mk III, and Defiant,
a C 110. You can watch our progress at www.oregonoffshore.org, and click
on* race
When the smile first appeared on my boat, the keel bolts were so loose that
I could move the keel from side to side. In order to drop the keel, we had
to remove the mast (The forward keel bolt is under the mast). Once we
dropped the keel, we hosed out the bolt holes. There was a terrible smell
Is there anything special about the cap, or can I just get one from an auto
parts store?
Alan Bergen
On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 1:38 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I second Charlie’s message. My overflow tank developed a crack and it
> took me a while to find the
The cp is old. I'll replace that first. Thanks for mentioning that.
On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 9:19 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> How old is the cap on the coolant system?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 10:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.
East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:47 AM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't
>> seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections whi
Shawn:
I purchased, new, a 1979 Ericson 2-30, and sailed and raced her for
twenty-five years. I never had a problem with the keel, and the bilge was
bone dry. I seem to recall that the keel bolts were J bolts. I have never
heard of an Ericson keel falling off. The only problem I had with the boat
Over a period of time, I'm losing antifreeze from the engine. I haven't
seen any leaks coming from any of the hoses or hose connections while the
engine is running. Can anyone confirm that the likely cause is a leak in
the heat exchanger? The engine is a Yanmar 3GMf, 20hp model. How difficult
is
If your insurance policy hull coverage says"agreed value", that's what the
insurance company should pay you, not what other boats sell for, even if
they sell for less than the agreed value. If your insurance policy hull
coverage says "replacement cost", then they'll use whatever an identical
boat
I think I use 1/4" packing (1" shaft). To be safe, why not buy a few
different sizes, and return the ones that are the wrong size.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 4:33 PM Rod Fisk via CnC-List
wrote:
> My 1981 C 36-1 needs new packing in the prop
Your 4 cycle eight is a lot heavier than your 2 cycle four. Might make the
boat out of balance.
On Thu, Feb 21, 2019 at 10:48 AM David via CnC-List
wrote:
> I have a 9' high pressure floor Avon that is in good shap. My 4hp 2cycle
> died. I have a barely used 4 cycle mercury 8hp that I would
I did one handrail with epoxy first and then several coats of Cabot Spar
Varnish. I did the other handrail with just the Spar Varnish. The finish on
the epoxied one is more durable. Whatever varnish you use, get one that has
UV inhibitors.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
I use oil, and I applied Treadmaster to the steps.
Alan Bergen
>
35 Mk III Thirsty
>
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to
I replaced an Autohelm depth sounder display with one I purchased from
someone on the list. the transducer was ok. You can also check out the
Raymarine refurbished instruments.
http://www.raymarine.com/store/refurbished/. You might find something you
want there.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose
My arrangement is similar to yours, Don. The spinnaker guy has a shackle
with a large bale The sheet is attached to the guy and the guy is attached
to the spinnaker clew. I have a two or three inch diameter disk on the guy
just aft of the shackle which prevents the shackle from getting caught in
In addition to what Don said, using the lazy guy instead of the sheet,
pulls the clew down, and then you can even the clews by moving the pole
down at the mast, easing the topping lift and tightening the foreguy. All
of these adjustments move the center of effort down, further lessening the
Hi Ron -
Where did you find a single bowl sink that's about the same size as the
double sink that came with many of the C's?
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 6:52 AM rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi Adamdo not
I saw a boat at a rendezvous a few years ago, which had galley and head
counters made of Corian. Looked great. I plan on doing the same thing when
I have some extra money. I'll send some pictures.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Fri, Nov 30, 2018 at 3:04 PM Adam
Most important, do not use an automotive charger; use a marine charger. The
charger depends on the type of batteries you have - led acid, gel or AGM.
Some chargers will charge all three depending on the switch setting. I have
a charger mounted on my boat, and I keep it on whenever I'm in my slip,
I use Delo 15-40.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Wed, Nov 21, 2018 at 12:31 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar.
> What you use?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland Or
>
In Oregon there are places that recycle all kinds of "stuff" - batteries,
paint, oil, antifreeze, compact florescent bulbs. You get the picture. Try
Googling Milwaukee hazardous waste recycling.There are several places that
will probably take the antifreeze.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose
My boat came with a baby stay on a Schaeffer track. I replaced the track
with a Harken high profile track and a Harken traveler car. I can snug it
by hand, but I can also lead it to a spinnaker halyard winch through a
Lewmar clutch. In light air, I release the clutch, and push the BS back to
the
Good advice, Chuck. I was going by what was told to me. I never bothered to
check the manual for the correct lubricant.
Alan
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 9:32 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on
Use chain lubricant on the chain and on the cables. It comes in a spray can.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject
line?
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
> and every one is greatly
If you use someone to hoist you up the mast, tie the halyard to you or to
your climbing gear, rather than using the shackle that's on the halyard.
Don't let anyone stand under you while you're going up or while you're at
the top, just in case you drop something. A friend of mine ;loaned me his
I use the Lewmar grease. Use it sparingly. I do all winches (ten) on my
boat every year, and a tube of Lewmar grease lasts me for years.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Nov 3, 2018 at 6:45 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I’m
The prop diameter should be as large as possible while still clearing the
hull by a couple of inches. When you run the engine at full throttle, you
should be able to reach rated rpm. If the engine runs more than 5% over
rated rpm, the pitch is too low. If the engine cannot reach rated rpm, the
It's rated at 6' 5" or 6.42'
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sun, Oct 28, 2018 at 2:23 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I’m taking my boat to be hauled out tomorrow, the marina I’m headed to is
> pretty shallow. I’ve never actually
You can buy several sizes, and return the ones that you don't use.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Fri, Oct 26, 2018 at 8:07 AM, Dennis Shaw Account via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I am replacing the cutless bearing on our 1981 C 34 next week and need
Two things you can try:
First, get a bigger funnel.
Second, instead of having the spout of the can facing away from you, turn
the can around, and have the spout facing toward you. when the spout is
facing away from you, fuel will start to flow as soon as you tilt the can.
When the spout is
With both taps turned off, if the pump pressure switch doesn't see back
pressure, it will run until it sees pressure, and the pump turns off. When
the cold water is turned on, the pump pressure switch sees no back
pressure, and pumps the cold water. When the cold water tap is closed, the
pressure
My previous boat was an Ericson 2-30. It had wooden framed hatches that I
replaced with aluminum framed hatches from Bomar. The deck on the Ericson
was raised, so the mounting surface of the wooden framed hatches wasn't
curved. On your boat you would have to mount the Bomar or Harken hatches on
based upon each boat? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 602.5
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
When I took mine apat, I don't remember whether they were glued (I don't
think so), but they came apart pretty easily. I found the stairs too steep,
so I split the sides down the middle, added a piece of 1 x 6 teak in
between them, glued the pieces together using biscuits, and extended the
dados
I use Lew Townsend in Seattle for my hydraulic repairs. You may not want to
send your unit to him, but if you call him, he can advise you. His number
is: 206-935-4678.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 7:45 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
Don't let having a child stop you from sailing, Stephan. When our son was
just six months old, we put him in a car seat, strapped it to a winch and
went sailing.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
I have owned DejaVu, a 1990 34/36 for the past 7 years. She is my third
C
Patricia:
If you like to sew, you can make a cover. Sailrite (www.sailrite.com) has a
DVD which is currently on sale for $9.95. You can use a standard sewing
machine for sewing sunbrella.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 7:52 AM, Patricia Walsh via
Google "Cutlass bearing removal tool" and you will see several options.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thanks. Would you happen to remember the inside and out side
In a port/starboard situation, the starboard boat must hold her course
while the port boat must keep clear. There is no requirement for port to
pass astern of starboard, only that she keep clear. If she could have
passed in front of starboard without starboard having to change course,
then she
I replaced some of my corroded metal zipper pulls with plastic ones from
Sailrite. I don't know why they still use metal ones on plastic zippers.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Sep 20, 2018 at 6:49 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
I found a web site for a company in California that sells marine pumps.
The company is called Marine Pump direct. The Yanmar distributor wanted
$609 for a pump for my engine. Marine pump Direct had an almost identical
pump, made by Johnson, for $239.
Customer service was great. When I had some
Thanks for the link. Unfortunately they don't source Yanmar parts anymore.
Alan
On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 2:15 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> See the thread below from last year. Matthew may be able to help
>
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
>
Does anyone have a source for Yanmar engine parts at reasonable prices? The
local Yanmar distributor wants $609 for a new water pump. It's about $100
cheaper on ebay.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
Thanks everyone for
> On Sun, 19 Aug 2018 at 15:55, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug. Does anyone have a contact
>> number for the company, or a source for the strain relief?
>
I race with a 105, and cruise with a 135. With the 105, I run my sheets
through a fairlead a short distance aft of the shrouds, then through a
fairlead further aft, through a turning block and then to the forward
winch. With the 135, I run the sheets the same way but eliminate the
forward
I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug. Does anyone have a contact
number for the company, or a source for the strain relief?
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.
Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.
All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the
electrical panel ground bus. Then the ground bus should be connected to
the engine block.
y I’m testing might
> be creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>
>
>
> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist
> out there.
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike
> C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water. That's what I use. They're
cheaper than magnesium.
To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter. Then check the AC
line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips. The ammeter
should read zero amps. Use the lowest scale, as
Here are two links. One for eBay and one for Defender Industries.
A better arrangement is a Smart Plug and inlet. The cable snaps in without
any threads. The contacts are larger, and when it's not plugged in, the
cover snaps down into place. You can buy the \whole assembly complete with
cord, or you can use your Marinco cord and add the fittings yourself.
, David via CnC-List
wrote:
> Does your PHRF adjust down to 105?
>
> From my Android
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of ALAN BERGEN
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 2, 2018 10:19:13 PM
> *To:* C
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN
> *Subj
I race with a 105% North genoa, and I point higher than anyone else in the
fleet. Also makes for faster tacks, doesn't backwind the main and it gives
me a better handicap.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Thu, Aug 2, 2018 at 6:02 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List <
What do you mean by "bump the starter"? If the dipstick is reading dry when
you know you have the proper amount of oil, it sounds like you may have the
wrong dipstick.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 4:32 PM, Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
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