To check voltage drop:
On the positive side, one lead on the + of the start battery and one lead on
the connection of the battery cable to the starter.
On the minus side, one lead on the – of the start battery and one lead on a
clean metal surface on the starter itself.
Start the engine and note
t;>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at
>>>> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
>>>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
>>>> issue is in
nd the + at
>> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
>> issue is in the hot path.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------ Forwarded message --
>>
nnection. Raise the
>>>> current and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm
>>>> resistance and your gonna drop 6V. Put a voltmeter there with no load it
>>>> will read 12V.
>>>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - te
Neil,
I forgot about things like missile contacts. Perfect example though. In a
similar way the 13kv, 4kv,and 480v breakers that I regularly work with all
have "stabs" that engage and disengage the bus bars. All of them have a
lubricant applied. I don't know anything about the chemical
ead 12v. If you hit the start button and the
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
>> issue is in the hot path.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------ Forwarded message --
>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.co
OK guys, here is an explanation from my Missile Control days. What the
Tefgel is doing is acting as a "faying surface" sealant. Big words for
describing that the Tefgel is filling in all of the crevices between the
actual contact points. Remember that there is no such thing as a smooth
Oddly enough, trailer connections are one of the "electrical plugs" which I
have mashed silicone dielectric grease into. I never had a trailer light
problem that could be traced to the connectors. Maybe, in your case
Bailey, it had something to do with it being lanocote?
Josh
On Thu, Aug 15,
There may be a complex, microscopic explanation. But the short answer I picked
up as an ME and in years of being a technical trainer is that the action of
crimping, staging, etc. to get a tight connection forces the dielectric out of
the way and gives connectivity through metal to metal
Thinking about Tef-gel and recommended practices by experienced people, I
once coated my trailer lighting harness connector for a small boat with
lanocote. My thoughts were as the prior posters, that it would keep away
future corrosion and perhaps improve connections.
I tested the fitting after
This question has been asked before. Yes, it seems counter-intuitive that
a Teflon or silicone coating would conduct a current. I vaguely recall one
of the more technically oriented listers answering the question about 15-20
years ago. Something about the interstitial spaces being coated at a
Dennis,
This question came up at work the other day. I do the same as you, coat
the connections then attach. Battery manufacturers and, in my case, the PM
schedule for batteries at a nuclear power plant both state scrubbing the
connections, coating them, wiping clean, then making the
Superlube will NOT work.
I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points. That is, before I crimp
a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel. Then I coat the ring
connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to a
terminal block, breaker, or whatever.
My buddy
Dennis,
Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the
surfaces after all connections are made? Would Superlube work the same?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List,
wrote:
> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and
tarter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
>> issue is in the hot path.
>>
>>
>>
>>> -- Forwarded message ------
>>> From: Jeff Hel
hit the start button and the
> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
> issue is in the hot path.
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Jeff Helsdingen
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>>
is in the hot path.
-- Forwarded message --
> From: Jeff Helsdingen
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connect
Thanks Jeff,
I'll do that.
This boat had had a number of upgrades electrically by the man who owned it
for 15 years before me. I've upgraded nothing in the electrical systems in
the past 10 years. Still, lots of vibration over many years
Wade
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 17:48 Jeff Helsdingen via
I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all the
ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
through the battery switch and to the starter. Since it's a "new" problem
I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
but
Wade,
The main and most troublesome grounding point on my 33-2 was the stud on the
engine behind the starter motor.My suggestion (also) is to start there.
All clean, corrosion free and solid contact. This was my first trouble spot
and most impactful.
Dave.
Sent from my iPhone
> On
Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative, clean
them and reconnect them. Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems TefGel (
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
and coat the connections with it. Clean both ends of the cables.
Like
thanks you.
Ok, I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.
if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean: follow the
batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to begin
with. Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the battery
banks
Agreed, sounds like a bad ground. Voltage is one thing; but enough current to
crank is another, and definitely something that will be adversely affected by
bad ground continuity.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39
Wade,
There is too little information about the interconnecting wiring of your
boat. To get started you need a portable volt meter and reading directly
off the battery terminals. Second, disregard the capacity readings from
the Link 20. As discussed previously with Edd Schillay the capacity
Clean all the ground connections.
Dennis C.
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hello listers, I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
> electrical issue du jour.
>
> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
There is not a lot to a masthead light. I would suggest that you just
bring a bulb, some solder, a butane soldering iron, some tape, an xacto
knife, and maybe even a spare socket and a few bits of shrink tubing.
The bulb and socket are very inexpensive items. From the deck, all you
can really
Set your meter to read resistance (ohms)
Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0
ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching
Attach the common (black) probe to a ground wire (black or yellow) at the mast
base junction
Touch the meter's red
I don't think that a continuity check will help.
If the bulb is blown = no connectivity.
If the fixture is corroded/bad connection = no connectivity.
I might be wrong on the blown bulb but that's my take on it.
I could check with the multimeter that you are getting 12V at the base of
the mast
.
Leslie
Phoenix CC32
From: Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
I am no electrician, but I would think that (if it is a regular bulb) an ohm
meter check through
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:56 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
Set your meter to read resistance (ohms)
Touch the red and black probes together to test the meter. You should see 0
ohms when touching and OL (out of limits) when not touching
Attach the common (black) probe
Yes...measure ohms across the wires at the base of the mast
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: May 15, 2013 11:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
12 V OFF, just test across the 2 wires leading to the light.disconnect them
at the base of the mast, a reading of zero ohms suggests a blown bulb, bad
connection for the bulb or broken wire (s).
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
_
From: CnC-List
0 ohms is short, not blown bulb
OL or very high reading is open circuit, blown bulb, bad connection, etc.
Leslie
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical
Of Leslie
Paal
Sent: May 15, 2013 6:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice?
0 ohms is short, not blown bulb
OL or very high reading is open circuit, blown bulb, bad connection, etc.
Leslie
_
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc
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