Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

Just some thoughts on my experience. Modular design gives you opportunity to spread pressure vessels, hoses and controls over larger areas. It’s a pain in the a.. when things need to be repaired but it allows you to not sacrifice considerable space. One of the reasons I went the DIY path is

Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

So jealous you got long term Bahamas plans on the horizon. Actually, most of Bahamas drinking water comes from desalination plants. Anyway, I would utilize all the tanks all the time. Have means to combine or separate. Maybe rotate them. Because the minute you start storing water for

Re: Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

Petar: Thanks for reminding me that all the components don't need to be in one place. So, all I need is a couple smaller spaces. I've been thinking about plumbing the WM only into the forward (largest) tank and just draw from that tank while anchored in the Bahamas. This way, I would

Re: Stus-List Bad Build

C is my no means perfect. For just one example, my boat came with all fresh water hardware store gate valves! Did C think their boats never left Lake Ontario? That said, the basic structure seems vastly stronger than a lot of what gets built today. Joe Coquina C 35 MK I From: CnC-List

Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water collecting at the bottom. Even condensation dripping down if it is humid as you say. My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then cut vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole.

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

Bacon sails can also make one. Joel On Monday, December 7, 2015, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs. Quantum > Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney). I can provide email and/or phone if desired > but I suggest

Stus-List Windstar 33ii mast step repair - blog updated.

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Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

So I'm doing a lot of projects lately, and was majorly bummed out to find the wall between the engine compartment and the lower foot of the port aft quarterberth has some significant rot. Frustrated because lately it feels like every project I fix, I find a new one. And this will be a big one.

Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Hi all, I'm brand new to the list here and I'm not quite sure how this list works yet... But I'm excited to join because I'm the proud new owner of a 1976 C 30 mki. My boat is hauled for the winter and is exhibiting the much-talked-about C "smile" at the front of the keel, but there is also a

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts. Others will chip in soon with more involved repairs. Joe Coquina C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Sent: Monday, December 07, 2015 4:10 PM To:

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Thanks Joe. That's a relief to hear. I have not torqued the bolts yet, but I plan to using the specs on cnc photo album. I can't stop picturing the nightmare scenario of my feel falling off... like that Oyster off the coast of Spain recently. On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Hi Ryan, welcome to the list! I had a worse looking smile than that on my Viking 33 when I got her. I had the yard torque the bolts (I didn't have a torque wrench that could handle the job) and they cleaned and faired the crack. 4 years later there was no sign of the smile returning. I'm

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Don't think I would get too worried about that unless you have water ingress around any of the keel bolts, if not just tighten the nuts to spec then clean around the crack surfaces (maybe with an angle grinder) fill the smile using epoxy and glass matte and fair Dwight Veinot C 35 MKII, *Alianna*

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Thanks Danny I appreciate it. I know I saw a forum on here about how to fair and fill the crack. Going to take a look at that again. On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 4:14 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote: > All I did on my boat was get a big socket wrench and tighten the bolts. > >

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Welcome to the list Ryan. I’m sure that you’re worried about what may be going on with your keel bolts with the crack and water ingress. I know that I was and I have to state, I let my “smile” go for 15 years even after it was apparent when I bought the boat. I turned a willful blind eye to

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Thanks for your reply Dave. Love the blog. Yes water ingress is certainly a concern, but I have not noticed any rust bleeding out. I'm wondering if I should wait until spring when I paint to torque the bolts. Or do you think there's a risk of water ingress over the winter? I'm in NY, so she

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Ryan, I’d be surprised if there was a problem with freezing. I know on my boat that basically the water just drained out a few days after the haul. Others may chip in here with better ideas which is the beauty of this list. Were it me, and take that with a grain of salt given my track record

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

Patrick — from what I can see in your photos, I wouldn’t be surprised if the battery (or a previous one) had something to do with the rot. The discoloration and deterioration of the wood could have come from acid leak or outgassing of hydrogen sulfide from a battery being overcharged. Your

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post. If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out. First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew.. I would be very surprised if the rot was

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine published by West Systems. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docslist_api Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 7, 2015 4:11 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List" wrote: >

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Wow. This seems like a great forum. Thanks for the responses... And all this time I've been slumming it over at Sailnet :) Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 7, 2015, at 6:49 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Here's a write up I saved from Epoxy Works magazine

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

I've heard good things about Smith's CPES. Lower cost/oz than any other product. I've use an entire quart (2 pint kit) of it and have received good piece of mind as a result, but no quantifiable evidence of it's effectiveness. They make lofty claims which i don't mind testing on non-structural

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

My friend’s 1983 LF38 has a rather large removable rectangular panel in the area you are talking about (which provides pretty fair access to the right side of the engine, transmission, and v drive, as I know from personal experience). There are stainless tabs on the edge of the panel that keep

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

Patrick, I can’t tell exactly what part of the bulkhead you are addressing from the pictures. I do see that there may have been a battery mounted in the vicinity. I also have some rot in the same bulkhead, caused from battery acid spilled from an unsecure battery in the engine compartment. The

Re: Stus-List Windstar 33ii mast step repair - blog updated.

Nice write up! Joel On Monday, December 7, 2015, Dave Syer via CnC-List wrote: > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/ > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Ryan, You've already gotten several good replies. I guess you saw this: "http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm;. That's Touche', my 35-1. As others have said, torque the keel bolts. A rental shop nearby may have a torque multiplier. You can get cheap large sockets at

Re: Stus-List C "smile" plus small separation

Well, first just check the torque specs and see if they are right. I would not worry about freezing. If you are in the water, it is too deep down. If you are on the hard, water will drain. Dry up the bilge, if you want to feel good about it, seal up the smiles with a thin layer of 4200 or life

Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts?

Not sure what your cockpit looks like. Pretty much that same panel showed rot on my 35-1. The cause was poor caulk under the coaming of the port cockpit locker. Your LF38 may be made differently. I like Rick's suggestion about an access port. Failing that, best option might involve scarfing

Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

Hi, I'm in need of replacing my mainsail Doyle stack pack as the canvas is rotten (came with the boat and enjoy the simplicity). A winter project. I was just curious if others may have such a system, and advice/recommendations for brand of replacement. I tried to search the archives and

Re: Stus-List Doyle Stack Pack or Mack Pack?

My sailmaker was able to custom make a solution for my needs. Quantum Solomons, MD (Clark Mckinney). I can provide email and/or phone if desired but I suggest talking to your local sail lofts or canvas specialist. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 7, 2015 7:50 PM, "tim