I tried Star-Brite hull cleaner in my oven. No cigar.
Rich
> On Jul 14, 2014, at 1:40, Sam Salter via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I took my painted name off the bow and stern (with Easy-Off) about 5 years
> ago and renamed with vinyl lettering.
> I put a couple of coats of wax on a couple of mo
I took my painted name off the bow and stern (with Easy-Off) about 5 years
ago and renamed with vinyl lettering.
I put a couple of coats of wax on a couple of months ago before launch and
although I wasn't particularly looking, I didn't notice anything untoward.
sam :-)
Original Message
F
Does anyone know of a source for Barient Winch parts? The line lifter on
our model 27's broke and I am looking for a replacement. It is a Barient
27, 2 speed, self tailing.
Thanks,
Brad
CnC 36
Seattle
___
This List is provided by the C&C Ph
I found that the gelcoat, initially, yellowed under the Easy-off. That
yellow tinge came off after some compounding (3M Finesse It).
Marek
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ted
Drossos via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.co
I would suggest considering all the potential bad outcomes and have an
agreement regarding those before they happen. E.g. how you deal with repairs
due to one party's negligence or error. E.g. One option is the guilty party
pays, but this may lead to hiding problems; the other option is you split
I used Easy-Off oven cleaner 14 years ago to remove the painted on name on my
transom with no ill effects. Like Stevan, I also saw that the original name
stood slightly proud of the surrounding gel coat. Light wet sanding with 400,
600, 800, 1200 and then compound and wax took care of all remnan
Calypso has been co-owned for 15 years, and we (the co-owners) had a C&C 36 in
a partnership for 7 years before that.
The partnership agreement is similar to a real estate limited partnership with
a general partner (takes care of finances, insurance, taxes etc.) and a limited
partner. We sta
I have a Nicro solar vent in the head. The deck around the vent is prone
to mildew. Only place on the boat where mildew seems to thrive.
I usually scrub it with Soft Scrub with bleach. Does the job but I didn't
like the abrasion on the nonskid gelcoat. I've also used Roll Off and
other marine
Marine bonding wire should be green, AWG8, 6 or 4.
http://www.awcwire.com/mfg/alpha/product/dearborn-bonding-marine-wire
>From your handy dandy C&C resource site: <
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm>
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jul 13, 2014 at
I was thinking also of using marine battery cable (4awg) because it is
tinned. I could just strip the insulation off. Curious why no insulation. I
suspect it is to eliminate burning PVC in the event it takes a lightning
hit.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bur
This would enable me to create a bonding bus so I wouldnt have to remove
the keel nut any more as I continue to replace the older bonding cables
.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 3:44 PM
To: 'Frederick G
Maybe same circuit as the running lights or bow light
_
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: July 13, 2014 11:42 AM
To: Joe Della Barba; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List binnacle light
Not wired to the pull s
One possible solution I am contemplating is to get a standard copper bus bar
and put two holes in it. One (1/2 inch) to attach the bonding cable end and
a bigger hole for the keel bolt. I have plenty of room above the nut to
accommodate a ¼ inch copper bar under the nut.
From: CnC-List [mailto:
Hi Fred,
Thanks for the response and the offer. I can deal with 4awg stranded wire if
that is an acceptable practice. My son in law is a master electrician and
has all the big crimpers I need.
Here is the challenge and another question: Those keel bolts are really big
(close to 1 inch diam
It's only been about 16 months since I've done it but no ill effects so
far. I used vinegar to clean up. I don't know that it would do anything
more harmful than the sandpaper I used to fair everything smooth where the
old name used to be .. there was a 'shadow' of the name that was proud of
the re
Over the years I've heard many folks recommend Easy-Off to remove old
boat names and so on. I've always wondered about the long term effect
on gelcoat. It's pretty harsh stuff. Does anyone who's used it have any
observations after five years or more after use?
Wal
PS. World Cup finals in t
Joel,
If I recall, you have two push-pull switches next to your engine panel. I only
have one and that is for the binnacle light (which hopefully still works). It
is conceivable that the binnacle might be wired into your nav lights too. They
are all needed at the same time…
Jake
What is the reason for not using braid. Wild Rover has fat-assed welding cables
routing from the chainplates to the keel with the pre-requisite tongue in cheek
90 degree bends from the factory. I kid of course, they are long radius bends.
Brent D
27-5
Lake Winnipeg
On Jul 13, 2014, at 10:40 AM
Welcome to the C&C BDSM List . . .
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:25 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List
wrote:
Leather works well for bondage.
Rich
> On Jul 13, 2014, at 11:34, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Actually, there’s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
>
>> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
>> copper tubing, bare t
On our 34, the binnacle wire goes to the push pull switch next to the engine
panel then to the running lights. Had to replace the switch a few years back
due to corrosion. Don’t recall if there was a separate in line fuse but easy
enough to take off the engine panel to inspect
John and Ma
Not wired to the pull switch. That was for the old spotlight. The wire
looks like it runs to the breaker panel.
On Sunday, July 13, 2014, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Fair odds the pull switch went bad. Check for voltage on both sides of it.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Bar
Actually, there’s a reason to NOT use braid; from the ABYC bonding standard:
> The common bonding conductor shall be uninsulated copper or bronze strip,
> copper tubing, bare tinned-copper wire or insulated copper wire of the proper
> gauge. Copper braid shall not be used for this purpose.
>
>
Skip — there’s no reason to use braid over the usual insulated large-gauge
stranded cable. I’ve got all crimp terminals from 8AWG to 4/0, in terminal
sizes from #10 to 3/8”, as well as the proper compound crimper needed to do
those large lugs; if you’d like, I could do up a heavy grounding wire
Fair odds the pull switch went bad. Check for voltage on both sides of it.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: Joel Aronson [mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 6:28 AM
To: Joe Della Barba; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List binnacle light
Don
I
I wonder if an ordinary Plastic/rubber grommet would help...not easy to try
unless the life lines are out of the stantion first...uncovered wire or
dymeema should slide through those...would not matter to me if they were
black or white or clear
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc
I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast.
Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to
fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but
Don
I don't have a wiring diagram but there is a pull switch. I didn't check
for voltage - yet. Thanks. Hope to see you on the Bay. I'm in south river.
On Saturday, July 12, 2014, Joel Aronson wrote:
> Voltage. Bought new light thinking that was the problem but checked
> voltage first.
>
> Than
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