Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tom,

1.  Don't get carried away tightening toe rail fasteners.  You could
squeeze out too much butyl rubber and cause the leakage to increase.  I
apply several applications of Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure to the
toe rail/deck interface every spring.  Seems to keep leaks there at bay.

2. Touché's mast has Spartite sealed with gray silicon self fusing tape.
No leakage whatsoever.  Pics can be seen here:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaHF0RTBxZDFla1k

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Feb 12, 2017 8:14 PM, "Thomas Delaney via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Randy, Neil, Bill,

Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker
and will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't
crossed my mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing
the mast boot and installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.

Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

FWIW, I get a similar amount of water in the boat as you're finding, 
most comes down the mast.  However, water under the settee is most 
likely from hull/deck joint.  My boat had also been on the hard for 
three years before my purchase, and the lockers under the port settees 
were all getting some water.  It's not a big deal to tighten all the 
screws in the toe rail, as that's probably the source of the water.  
Takes two people of course, one above to hold the screw, the other below 
to tighten the nut.  Don't overdo it, as you don't want to squeeze the 
sealant out, just snug them up.  It took care of it for me.


Sad to hear of Art's passing, he made the 35-1 look really fast.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 2/12/2017 9:13 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:

Randy, Neil, Bill,

Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable 
marker and will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it 
hadn't crossed my mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add 
replacing the mast boot and installing a garboard drain to my list of 
projects.


Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY


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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Steve via CnC-List]

Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on my 
newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the rigging. I 
have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and keel bolts.  
No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull fittings.  After using a 
shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge I return the next day and 
continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the bilge.  I am now convinced 
that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose which outputs through a Y 
connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see 
in the morning.  If I find any, it will be either salt or bleach.  That should 
help narrow it down, as I have bleach in the water tanks.  The holding tank is 
empty. Good thing for the taste test!

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello listers,
> 
> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, 
> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
> 
> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
> 
> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
> bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've 
> been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
> gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
> water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
> forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is 
> to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases 
> while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress 
> stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I 
> should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Tom
> 
> ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I 
> City Island, NY
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[coltrek via CnC-List]

That may not work, because it comes down the inside of the mast! Go down to the 
boat when it's raining like hell, and take a flashlight and look at your mast 
and see if you don't see water running down through  there.   By the way, 
somebody on this list came up with a really great suggestion, strong magnets. I 
have a pair, and I put one in the bilge in the lowest point where I really 
wanted the garboard drain, but I didn't think I could drill through there. Then 
I went around down outside  with the other magnet and Son of a bitch if it 
didn't stick right where I wanted it!


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
Date: 2/12/17  21:13  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Thomas Delaney  
Subject: Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress 

Randy, Neil, Bill,
Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker and 
will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't crossed my 
mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing the mast boot and 
installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.
Thanks again,Tom
---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY

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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Randy, Neil, Bill,

Thank you all for the advice. I've marked the hull with a washable marker
and will check for water next weekend. The mast is in, and it hadn't
crossed my mind that the water was coming through it. I'll add replacing
the mast boot and installing a garboard drain to my list of projects.

Thanks again,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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Stus-List Thank you! Further update

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello everyone.
First, I want to thank everyone for your invaluable insights (and yes I owe 
Stu!).  I went to the boat over the weekend and after warming up the engine for 
the oil and transmission fluid change, I drained the Racor.  In short, no 
water, and about a teaspoon of gritty black stuff in the bottom of the bowl.  I 
hooked up a 12 volt fuel pump (thanks Josh for the idea!), and pumped some 
straight out of the tank, and got a little more black stuff.  I then hooked it 
up to the output side of the Racor, and pulled 5 gallons out of the tank.  
Overall, it looked pretty clean, and the Racor remained clear.
At that point, I strained the 5 gallons back into the tank, and started the 
pump pulling from the output side of the Racor and ran it back into the fuel 
tank filler, and ran it for about 6 hours.  At that point I drained the Racor, 
having noticed no reduction in the outgoing flow from the pump (I was using 
clear tubing).  The Racor was nearly entirely clear - maybe a few bits of black 
in the bottom, and that's about it.  I replaced the filter and have another 3 
spares.  I also added biocide and tank cleaner.  Not once did I find evidence 
of water in the fuel.  

Since then, I added 15 gallons of fuel to top off the tank (subject of another 
post momentarily) 

I leave tonight for business travel and get back late Thursday with an early 
Friday cast-off to take her from Marco Island to Tampa.  

I am pretty confident that the fuel is clean, but am wary about stuff stuck to 
the tank breaking loose as things get shaken up.  That being said, I have 
little in the way of evidence to suggest a major problem, so we'll just carry 
filters and hope for the best (while relying on our primary form of propulsion 
(the sails).
Thanks again everyone for your great advice - I would be fumbling in the dark 
without you.
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List whisker pole rebuild

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I finally got around to using the whisker pole on Alera last summer 
and loved it.  That and the preventer fashioned from the block set 
from an old boom vang on our C 35 Mk1 made for some very sweet and 
comfortable downwind sailing, including some wing and wing with much 
less stress than balancing all that cloth from the helm.


The Forespar whisker pole does not look like it was used much.  But 
it could use to have the control lines inside and out replaced.  A 
nice simple winter project...well maybe.  I have an idea of what I'm 
getting into courtesy of a few sailor's blog posts linked below.


Here are the blog links.

http://justalittlefurther.com/the-blue-view/the-blue-view-rigging-for-downwind-sailing/

http://theretirementproject.blogspot.com/2016/10/rebuilding-forespar-whisker-pole.html

So, I thought I would check in with the brain trust here before I 
start drilling out rivets.


Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Fred,
  Practical Sailor mag had good article in January 2017 updating an earlier 
article from 2016.  Its an expensive mag but lots of good tests...including wth 
is one on anchor shackles.  I would copy and post but sticky copyright issues...
Bill Walker
Cnc 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, February 12, 2017 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain for my 
ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a link/  If I 
use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.


Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

I don't believe there is anything wrong using a 
high quality link, with the expectation that it 
is replaced occasionally due to corrosion issues 
where it is difficult to inspect.

It might be tricky to get one that matches the pitch an your windlass head.

https://www.amazon.com/CM-664038-2-Hammerlok-Herc-Alloy-Limit/dp/B00H8SN4QY/ref=sr_1_16/162-7718447-7663043?s=industrial=UTF8=1486930680=1-16


Many years ago I used one that was two halves 
nestled together over pins and the pin heads got 
peened over. Better than the Hammerlock style to 
limit corrosion issues but I couldn't find an image of it.



Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:23 AM 12/02/2017, you wrote:
I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to 
add to my existing chain for my ground 
tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers 
about using a link/ Â If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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contribution to offset our costs, please go 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David,

I've had alternator to starter lead wired like 
that on so many boats that I cannot recall any 
other way. On one baot I did have an ammeter but 
it was located very close to the engine so the 
lead was alt > ammeter -> starter lead, less than 18" of wire.


The purpose of this arrangement is to utilize the 
heavy gauge starter wire for the alt. For obvious 
reasons it is wired to the battery side of the starter terminals :)


I also use a glow plug relay, typically the low 
cost Ford Motor Company ancient starter relay, say 80s F-150.


The ACR will be wired from start battery to house 
bank. Again, this is the most common arrangement.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1



At 08:44 AM 12/02/2017, you wrote:
Siting here watching lots of snow come down 
makes my thoughts turn to boat maintenance and I 
have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.


First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the 
infamous trailer connectors described 
here: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1. 
I also have the panel pictured in this article 
with ammeter and tachometer.  I have already 
replaced one of the trailer connectors 
(partially melted) by directly splicing all the 
wires to their mates with butt connectors and 
will do the other in the spring.   I have read 
the article a number of times now and am 
reasonably sure I should also do the starter 
circuit upgrade as he recommends, but some of 
the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time 
understanding the whole thing if I can’t look 
at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a 
wiring diagram for the 
starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these Universals?


More specifically- his first recommendation is 
the quick and dirty fix: Simply jump the 
alternator output to the starter post and 
disconnect the orange wire. With this jumper the 
alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of 
teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge 
starter wire to make its way back to the battery 
switch and then to the battery banks.
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely 
(no big loss in my book as I never look at 
it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is 
important since the alternator does not drive 
the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am 
having trouble seeing what this accomplishes.


Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- 
I think I have two options.  First would be 
running the alternator to the house bank and an 
ACR to the starter battery.  Second would be a 
charge controller (Balmar 614) between the 
alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right 
that it is one or the other?  What I read from 
the same site makes me think the charge 
controller is the much better option since I 
have AGM batteries and he discusses extensively 
the problems of Motorola alternators, 
temperature compensation and charge control 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries. 



Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he 
discusses, is this the right solenoid to use: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057=2262949




Second unrelated question:
In his section on winterizing water systems he 
says: Water heaters are always drained and 
by-passed you do not run pink through them!


I have done this both ways, but I can’t see 
why it is so much better to bypass and drain.  I 
found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater 
so have been doing it the easy way of emptying 
the water tanks and then running propylene 
glycol through until red comes out both hot and 
cold lines.  Maybe if I plumbed it to make 
bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I 
can’t see why it matters other than using more antifreeze.


Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[]




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contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Anchor chain

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain
for my ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a
link/  If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Tom,
May I suggest the use of children markers (not crayons). The ones for kids are 
water based and run when exposed to water.  I ran a heavy line all along the 
inside of the hull up near the hull/deck joint and on the mast near the roof of 
the cabin so I could see areas that were leaking. 
Ended up the with my biggest issue was the mast boot.  With a keel stepped mast 
you will always get some water down the inside of the mast, but an old or MIS 
fitting mast boot cal let a lot of water in

Neil Andersen1982 C 32
Auburn, NY

_
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 10:28 AM
Subject: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress
To:  
Cc: Thomas Delaney 


Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, after 
receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey from Joe 
Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina near 
Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for her new 
life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip adjacent to 
his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've been 
pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is to 
have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while 
I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does 
that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at 
this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY



___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat 
maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site.  

First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control
I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors 
described here:  
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade=1 
. I 
also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer.  I 
have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by 
directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will do 
the other in the spring.   I have read the article a number of times now and am 
reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he recommends, 
but some of the details are fuzzy to me.  I have a hard time understanding the 
whole thing if I can’t look at a wiring diagram.   Has anyone created a wiring 
diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow plugs/panel on these 
Universals?  

More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: Simply 
jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the orange wire. 
With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet of teeny tiny 
10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way back to the 
battery switch and then to the battery banks.
I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as I 
never look at it).   I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the 
alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am having 
trouble seeing what this accomplishes.

Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two options.  
First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an ACR to the 
starter battery.  Second would be a charge controller (Balmar 614) between the 
alternator and the battery banks.  Am I right that it is one or the other?  
What I read from the same site makes me think the charge controller is the much 
better option since I have AGM batteries and he discusses extensively the 
problems of Motorola alternators, temperature compensation and charge control 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries
 
.
  

Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, is this the right solenoid 
to use: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057=2262949
 




Second unrelated question:
In his section on winterizing water systems he says: Water heaters are always 
drained and by-passed you do not run pink through them! 

I have done this both ways, but I can’t see why it is so much better to bypass 
and drain.  I found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater so have been 
doing it the easy way of emptying the water tanks and then running propylene 
glycol through until red comes out both hot and cold lines.  Maybe if I plumbed 
it to make bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I can’t see why it 
matters other than using more antifreeze.  

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[coltrek via CnC-List]

It's coming down the mast .  Put a garboard drain in .  
(Now, don't tell me the mast is out!)


Regards,
BillC 39

 Original message 
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
Date: 2/12/17  10:27  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Thomas Delaney  
Subject: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress 

Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, after 
receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey from Joe 
Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina near 
Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for her new 
life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip adjacent to 
his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've been 
pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is to 
have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while 
I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does 
that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at 
this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Tom, 

A gallon of water per week seems like a lot! Especially since the boat is 
shrink-wrapped. Are you having much snow or rain in NY this winter? 

One way water might be coming in is down the shrouds and down the chainplates, 
assuming the rig is up and the shrink-wrap seal around the shrouds is 
imperfect. When I bought my 30-1 a year ago I could tell from water damage 
inside that the chainplates were leaking, and I'm in the middle of a project to 
re-seal them right now. 

You could take a washable marker and trace around the inside of the hull just 
under the deck/hull joint, and trace around the bottom of the chainplates. 
After a few weeks, if you see the marker line running down, you'll know where 
at least some of the water is coming in. I did that on my boat and it confirmed 
the chainplate leak. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Thomas Delaney via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Thomas Delaney"  
Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2017 8:27:36 AM 
Subject: Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress 

Hello listers, 

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I, after 
receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey from Joe 
Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help! 

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina near 
Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for her new 
life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip adjacent to 
his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend. 

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in the 
bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. I've been 
pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be about 2-4 
gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure where the 
water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in the 
forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first instinct is to 
have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and stanchion bases while 
I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the water ingress stops. Does 
that make sense? Is there a different, better course of action I should take at 
this time? Does anyone know offhand what size socket I'll need? 

Thanks in advance, 
Tom 

--- 
Snow Goose 
C 35 Mk I 
City Island, NY 

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Stus-List New (old) C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hello listers,

In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C 35 Mk I,
after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey
from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!

The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina
near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for
her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip
adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.

One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in
the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years.
I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be
about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not
sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling
in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first
instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and
stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the
water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better
course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what
size socket I'll need?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Klacko Spars is still making some C parts out of cast aluminum. No idea about 
mast steps.

www.klackospars.com

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


From: T power via CnC-List   
Subject: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step 
 
 
 
Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there a 
place where I can get a replacement. 
 
Thanks for any help. 
 
Cheers, 
 
Tom 
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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Just make sure they use a correct marine aluminum alloy.


Bill Bina


On 2/12/2017 9:30 AM, T power via CnC-List wrote:


I never thought about that, seems like a simple solution.


Sent from Outlook 

*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis 
C. via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:45:54 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Dennis C.
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step
I just had a sheet metal shop weld some aluminum angle together to 
roughly duplicate the one on my 35-1. Probably similar to what C did 
originally.  You can see pics here:


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsb3phTUV4S3lkQ00

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

O


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Stus-List Water tank inspection ports

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

I was able to source new tank inspection ports in Toronto at Holland Marine 
Products. (HMP) holland marine.com The amount of original and replacement C 
parts Peter has in stock is impressive. There is an online catalogue. If you 
have changed the O rings and just want to caulk the cap, silicone will not seal 
to the plastic tank but I have had good luck in with butyl tape rolled like 
caulk on my holding tank. Not sure if it would contaminate fresh water tanks or 
not! As a side note HMP does plastic welding for new fitting relocation or 
repairs too and no I don't work there, he has solved a few boat problems for me 
over the years. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
89 37+
Midland On



Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

[T power via CnC-List]

I never thought about that, seems like a simple solution.


Sent from Outlook

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 8:45:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

I just had a sheet metal shop weld some aluminum angle together to roughly 
duplicate the one on my 35-1.  Probably similar to what C did originally.  
You can see pics here:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsb3phTUV4S3lkQ00

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Feb 11, 2017 6:24 AM, "T power via CnC-List" 
> wrote:


Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there a 
place where I can get a replacement.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Sent from Outlook

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dumb question, folks... water tank inspection ports

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I use silicone dielectric grease to lubrcate and condition the o-ring
seals.  Still have all original inspection ports except the holding tank.
The plastic weld/glue on the holding tank failed so I replaced it with a
beckson port.  No screws just plastic glue from TAP.  They claim heating
the plastic causes a change to the molecular structure of the plastic
allowing the glue to adhere.  I've not had a leak since.  I've heard of
similar success stories with west systems g-flex epoxy.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Feb 12, 2017 8:08 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our old C would occasionally leak out of the inspection port when full
> and hard on the wind.  I mostly fixed this with a good o-ring.  Our newer
> boat has somewhat soft o- rings, but the prior owner had applied a bunch of
> silicone sealer presumably to stop leaks, which came apart when I removed
> them.
>
> How do you folks keeps the inspection ports from leaking?  Where would I
> get replacement caps?
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Dumb question, folks... water tank inspection ports

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I'm going to have a good look at these for my tanks, new from Vetus this
year:

http://www.vetus.com/news/inspection-port-ilt.html

Ken H.

On 12 February 2017 at 09:07, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our old C would occasionally leak out of the inspection port when full
> and hard on the wind.  I mostly fixed this with a good o-ring.  Our newer
> boat has somewhat soft o- rings, but the prior owner had applied a bunch of
> silicone sealer presumably to stop leaks, which came apart when I removed
> them.
>
> How do you folks keeps the inspection ports from leaking?  Where would I
> get replacement caps?
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Dumb question, folks... water tank inspection ports

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Our old C would occasionally leak out of the inspection port when full and 
hard on the wind.  I mostly fixed this with a good o-ring.  Our newer boat has 
somewhat soft o- rings, but the prior owner had applied a bunch of silicone 
sealer presumably to stop leaks, which came apart when I removed them.

How do you folks keeps the inspection ports from leaking?  Where would I get 
replacement caps?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

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