Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Sean,

 

The 35-3 does tend to be a tender boat, at least until you heel it to 15 
degrees.  Once the initial heel is over, the boat stiffens up, but I’m always 
the first one to reef when I’m racing.

 

I have the deep keel (6’ 5” draft).  I can see definite advantages to the c/b 
version.  I wouldn’t attempt the ICW with my draft…something I’ve thought about 
doing several times.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sean 
Richardson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 13:37
To: CnC-List 
Cc: Sean Richardson 
Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

 

Calling on the collective C brain trust!

 

I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
the center board version if anyone has any.

 

The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be in 
very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our next 
boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it effects 
performance/stability as well as required maintenance.

 

I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to sail 
out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then return 
the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to Florida 
then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for the ICW and 
Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more challenging conditions 
of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?

 

My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean marine 
growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. And how 
difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with the boat 
in the water?

 

The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.

___

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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

We just finished our second season with a 33-2 centerboard. The board is 
relatively easy to deploy and recover with the winch, without the winch I can't 
budge it. We generally only deploy it to wind when we want to point a few 
degrees higher. I confess I haven't inspected the portion of the pendant that 
isn't visible. There is a method of recovering the board if the pendant fails. 
Take a line and pull it under the boat on each side from the bow until it 
engage the board, attach the ends of the line to the primaries and use them to 
winch up the board. Good luck, there was a 35-3 cb at our club for a while and 
it was a great boat.
Doug WelchCeltic Knot33-2 c/b 

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 8:46 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 SeanI sailed an O'Day with the shoal draft center board for  many years and 
loved the boat as it removes a lot of anxiety and stress to pull up the board 
when in shallow water or uncertain areas close to shore or when anchoring.   
Many times have nosed up to the rocks and tied on shore with an anchor off the 
stern.   You do lose some ability to point  close to the wind or we did on the 
O'Day.   Had her many times with triple reef main and storm jib so no issues in 
a blow.  You should replace the centerboard pennant line every 5 years but 
other than that no issues.   So if you sail in shallow waters or places with 
shallow anchorage the CB boat would fit the bill.  I now sail both a C 35 mk1 
and a C 29 mk 2 (please don't ask why two boats) and love the C's, their 
handling, speed, ability to point.   I do however have 'rock and anything else 
that may be hard below the surface' anxiety even with a depth sounder and when 
I get close to shore or island or when anchoring that anxiety only goes up and 
I long for the CB pennant to pull up the board for peace of mind.  So there is 
always a compromise.  Pick the boat that best suits where and how you plan to 
sail and enjoy. CheersJames
Sent from my iPad
On Jan 16, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Calling on the collective C brain trust! I’m giving serious consideration to 
a 35 MKIII CB and wouldappreciate any advice on what to look out for with the 
MKIII in general as wellspecifics of the center board version if anyone has 
any. The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts sofar appears to 
be in very good condition. She checks off many of therequirement boxes for our 
next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with mainconcerns being how it 
effects performance/stability as well as requiredmaintenance. I’ve heard the 
center board version is quite tender. Weeventually plan to sail out the St. 
Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, parkthe boat, then return the following 
season to continue on down the US Eastcoast (ICW) to Florida then on to the 
Bahamas. The board up shallow draft willbe good for the ICW and Bahamas portion 
but how would this boat fare in themore challenging conditions of the St 
Lawrence and Maritimes? My other concern is access to the centerboard area for 
maintenance. I would assume the slot and pivot area willrequire frequent 
attention to clean marine growth and avoid jamming the boardin either the up or 
down position. And how difficult would it be if one had toreplace the SS 
lifting strop with the boat in the water? The more I think about the center 
board the more troubles Isee down the road.

___

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   ___

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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[jcn--- via CnC-List]

Sean
I sailed an O'Day with the shoal draft center board for  many years and loved 
the boat as it removes a lot of anxiety and stress to pull up the board when in 
shallow water or uncertain areas close to shore or when anchoring.   Many times 
have nosed up to the rocks and tied on shore with an anchor off the stern.   
You do lose some ability to point  close to the wind or we did on the O'Day.   
Had her many times with triple reef main and storm jib so no issues in a blow.  
You should replace the centerboard pennant line every 5 years but other than 
that no issues.   So if you sail in shallow waters or places with shallow 
anchorage the CB boat would fit the bill.  I now sail both a C 35 mk1 and a 
C 29 mk 2 (please don't ask why two boats) and love the C's, their 
handling, speed, ability to point.   I do however have 'rock and anything else 
that may be hard below the surface' anxiety even with a depth sounder and when 
I get close to shore or island or when anchoring that anxiety only goes up and 
I long for the CB pennant to pull up the board for peace of mind.  So there is 
always a compromise.  Pick the boat that best suits where and how you plan to 
sail and enjoy. 
Cheers
James

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 16, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calling on the collective C brain trust!
> 
>  
> 
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
> the center board version if anyone has any.
> 
>  
> 
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be 
> in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our 
> next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it 
> effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to 
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then 
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to 
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for 
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more 
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
> 
>  
> 
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
> assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean 
> marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. 
> And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with 
> the boat in the water?
> 
>  
> 
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

You'll love the shallow draft in Florida. It opens the possibility of great 
cruising that would be blocked to you with a 6-foot draft.

It's increasingly common for centerboard owners to replace the ss cable and 
Nicropress fitting with Amsteel Blue or a similar high-tech line of the same 
diameter.

On my current boat (not a C), I used an Amsteel Blue line for seven years on 
the CB before replacing it in June. The rigger said I wasted my money; the line 
was like brand-new.

The line is secured to the CB by making an eye and putting a few wraps through 
it. The tricky part is taping the line to the cable and easing it through.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.







Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Sean Richardson via CnC-List  
Date:01/16/2018  1:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnC-List  
Cc: Sean Richardson  
Subject: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB 

Calling on the collective C brain trust!

 

I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
the center board version if anyone has any.

 

The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be in 
very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our next 
boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it effects 
performance/stability as well as required maintenance.

 

I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to sail 
out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then return 
the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to Florida 
then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for the ICW and 
Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more challenging conditions 
of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?

 

My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean marine 
growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. And how 
difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with the boat 
in the water?

 

The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

I’ll write up my experience this summer with replacing a broken cable on my 
boat while in the water with no option to haul out.   I’ll try to do that 
tonight with pictures of my solution. 

Donald



> On Jan 16, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calling on the collective C brain trust!
> 
>  
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
> the center board version if anyone has any.
> 
>  
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be 
> in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our 
> next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it 
> effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
> 
>  
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to 
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then 
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to 
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for 
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more 
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
> 
>  
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
> assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean 
> marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. 
> And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with 
> the boat in the water?
> 
>  
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Mike Casey via CnC-List]

The C 35MKIII model had an issue with the attachment of the keel. Not
all, but some. Very serious, check it out.


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#m_5367639150352183833_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 2:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Calling on the collective C brain trust!
>
>
>
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics
> of the center board version if anyone has any.
>
>
>
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to
> be in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for
> our next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how
> it effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
>
>
>
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
>
>
>
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I
> would assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to
> clean marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down
> position. And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS
> lifting strop with the boat in the water?
>
>
>
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the
> road.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sean

If I may chime in here although I have a 37.  In the last 12 years I have 
probably put the board down 3 times.  My board is currently out on the boat.  
Has been out since 2015.  This is the year to reinstall?  Any way I thinking of 
reinstalling and pinning it up and calling it a shoal draft.

As to maintenance you will have to replace the pendant every few years and the 
thimble at the board end isn’t available at the chandelier.  Got mine locally 
made at a machine shop.

The 35 may be different but I’m sure the pendant is a maintenance issue.

I lived your dream in 14/15.  Check out my blog.  Www.persuasion37.com
 

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 16, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calling on the collective C brain trust!
> 
>  
> 
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
> the center board version if anyone has any.
> 
>  
> 
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be 
> in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our 
> next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it 
> effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to 
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then 
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to 
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for 
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more 
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
> 
>  
> 
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
> assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean 
> marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. 
> And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with 
> the boat in the water?
> 
>  
> 
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Sean Richardson via CnC-List]

Calling on the collective C brain trust!



I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any
advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics
of the center board version if anyone has any.



The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to
be in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for
our next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how
it effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.



I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to
sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then
return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to
Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for
the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more
challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?



My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I
would assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to
clean marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down
position. And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS
lifting strop with the boat in the water?



The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the
road.
___

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Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

New Edson pedestal guard feet come with a set of flexible rubber gaskets for 
each foot. Two for each foot.  One has a center hole which is used when you run 
wiring through the guard and the other is solid.  I suspect a call to Edson 
would likely yield a free gasket or two if you asked nicely..They’re like that 
regarding customer service.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 16, 2018, at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many use 
> it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this 
> constant flexing would be an excellent idea
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ron Ricci
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>  
> Bruce,
>  
> I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
> pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that 
> hold it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed 
> around the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed 
> back down so the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The 
> pedestal guard feet are held against the deck.  It worked.
>  
> The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
> top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, 
> I could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
> were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did 
> not work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to 
> hold the feet down..
>  
> Ron
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
> To: C List
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
> Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>  
> Hello all,
>  
> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth 
> mattress foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming 
> from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate 
> the cockpit floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying 
> a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing 
> penetrates the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the 
> gap between the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper 
> material to be properly water resistant.
>  
> So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
> it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
> teak). 
>  
> What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
> coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our 
> new fabric! 
>  
> I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
> applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
> also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
> the tube and the foot?
>  
> Thanks for your ideas!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

The primary downside to butyl in.my mind is that anything petroleum acts as a 
solvent.  Spill some diesel and...
That said it us the easiest to work with (IMHO).


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/16/18  8:53 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet? 



I would think that the fact that the pedestal guard moves quite a lot would be 
a good reason for using butyl (as Mike said). But I am not an expert. And the 
fact that it worked for three years on my boat is not any kind of proof.
 
The only other experience with sealing a anything is with redoing the 
chainplates interface with the deck on my old C 24. At that time I used 3M 
4200. If I remember correctly, it worked quite well for a while, but 
eventually, it is bound to become less
 flexible and starts to crack/lose the seal with the fibreglass (like all 
silicone). Eventually, I was told that butyl would have been better.
 
Maybe we should ask the “Butyl Guru” – Maine Sail?
 
Marek
 
 


 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?


 


Marek
 
My thinking is that there is likely some movement of the binnacle guard, and 
that LifeSeal will form a stronger bond than butyl.  Can't say I have any 
evidence to back it up -  sort of like 'my anchor is better than your anchor'.








Virus-free. 
www.avg.com 





 
On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 wrote:




The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many use 
it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this constant
 flexing would be an excellent idea
 
Mike
Persistence
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Ron Ricci via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Ron Ricci

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?




 
Bruce,
 
I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal
 structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around the threaded part of 
the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so the butyl rubber 
filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet are held against 
the deck.  It worked.
 
The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the
 pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet were threaded and 
designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not work, I considered 
drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold the feet down..
 
Ron

 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM

To: C List

Cc: Bruce Whitmore

Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?


 


Hello all,


 


We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak
 which is coming from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and 
wires penetrate the cockpit floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the 
leak by applying a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the 
stainless tubing penetrates
 the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between 
the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to 
be properly water resistant.


 


So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself
 (which is finished with teak).  


 


What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't
 want leaks staining our new fabric!  


 


I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works,
 great.  But, how would I also more permanently stop water ingress due to water 
finding its way between the tube and the foot?


 


Thanks for your ideas!


 


Bruce Whitmore


 


Bruce Whitmore



(847) 404-5092 (mobile)

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net








___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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-- 

Joel 

301 541 8551

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would think that the fact that the pedestal guard moves quite a lot would be 
a good reason for using butyl (as Mike said). But I am not an expert. And the 
fact that it worked for three years on my boat is not any kind of proof.

The only other experience with sealing a anything is with redoing the 
chainplates interface with the deck on my old C 24. At that time I used 3M 
4200. If I remember correctly, it worked quite well for a while, but 
eventually, it is bound to become less flexible and starts to crack/lose the 
seal with the fibreglass (like all silicone). Eventually, I was told that butyl 
would have been better.

Maybe we should ask the “Butyl Guru” – Maine Sail?

Marek



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 09:39
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

Marek

My thinking is that there is likely some movement of the binnacle guard, and 
that LifeSeal will form a stronger bond than butyl.  Can't say I have any 
evidence to back it up -  sort of like 'my anchor is better than your anchor'.

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]
  Virus-free. 
www.avg.com

On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:
The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many use 
it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this 
constant flexing would be an excellent idea

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

Bruce,

I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around 
the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so 
the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet 
are held against the deck.  It worked.

The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not 
work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold 
the feet down..

Ron

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

Hello all,

We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the 
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit 
floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer 
of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the 
stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the 
tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be 
properly water resistant.

So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
teak).

What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new 
fabric!

I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
the tube and the foot?

Thanks for your ideas!

Bruce Whitmore

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is 

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My thinking is

1) seal the cables in the hole through the deck and let the guard move as
it wants
2) If you ever need to work with the cables, I'd rather remove LifeSeal
than butyl

LifeSeal or butyl will do the job.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 8:38 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Marek
>
> My thinking is that there is likely some movement of the binnacle guard,
> and that LifeSeal will form a stronger bond than butyl.  Can't say I have
> any evidence to back it up -  sort of like 'my anchor is better than your
> anchor'.
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> 
> <#m_-1900443356904985673_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many
>> use it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this
>> constant flexing would be an excellent idea
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Marek

My thinking is that there is likely some movement of the binnacle guard,
and that LifeSeal will form a stronger bond than butyl.  Can't say I have
any evidence to back it up -  sort of like 'my anchor is better than your
anchor'.


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Jan 16, 2018 at 8:54 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many
> use it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this
> constant flexing would be an excellent idea
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ron
> Ricci via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ron Ricci
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>
>
>
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The
> pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that
> hold it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed
> around the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed
> back down so the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The
> pedestal guard feet are held against the deck.  It worked.
>
>
>
> The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located
> top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the
> cables, I could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom
> of the feet were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above
> fix above did not work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and
> adding lock nuts to hold the feet down..
>
>
>
> Ron
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth
> mattress foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming
> from the starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate
> the cockpit floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by
> applying a small layer of aluminum duct tape at the point where the
> stainless tubing penetrates the stainless foot. There is a hard plastic
> spacer that fills the gap between the tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem
> to be made of the proper material to be properly water resistant.
>
>
>
> So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself,
> where it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is
> finished with teak).
>
>
>
> What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get
> is coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining
> our new fabric!
>
>
>
> I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard,
> and applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how
> would I also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its
> way between the tube and the foot?
>
>
>
> Thanks for your ideas!
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

The pedestal guard tends to move a lot where it contacts floor since many use 
it as a handhold and put torque on it.  I would think Butyl due to this 
constant flexing would be an excellent idea

Mike
Persistence

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2018 9:33 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

Bruce,

I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around 
the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so 
the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet 
are held against the deck.  It worked.

The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not 
work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold 
the feet down..

Ron

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

Hello all,

We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the 
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit 
floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer 
of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the 
stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the 
tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be 
properly water resistant.

So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
teak).

What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new 
fabric!

I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
the tube and the foot?

Thanks for your ideas!

Bruce Whitmore

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around 
the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so 
the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet 
are held against the deck.  It worked.

 

The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not 
work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold 
the feet down..

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

 

Hello all,

 

We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the 
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit 
floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer 
of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the 
stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the 
tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be 
properly water resistant.

 

So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
teak).  

 

What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new 
fabric!  

 

I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
the tube and the foot?

 

Thanks for your ideas!

 

Bruce Whitmore

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray