Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

2018-06-05 Thread pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List
I did g-flex on the keel joint year before last.   Pleasantly surprised at haul 
out last fall.  

 

I plan to pull the mast the end of this season and torque the bolts.  Hoping I 
don’t have to redo the keel joint…again.  

 

So far, I’m a fan.  

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dan via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2018 6:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

 

G-Flex is my go to - it's inexpensive and comes in a caulking gun cartridge.

I used it to cover my keel joint before adding fairing compound and bbottom 
paint. Fairing Compound doesn't seal water very well so you need something 
strong and a little flexible. This is my first time using it below the 
waterline but west systems says it works so I went with it.

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C 44

Halifax, NS

 

On Tue, Jun 5, 2018 at 12:24 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hauled out today for a quick bottom job. Yard suggested fibreglass for the 
crack, but then there’s also G-Flex. Epoxy and fairing could be an option but 
that would add on to the project. Any success or opinions on one or the other? 
It’s a minor smile, no torquing keel bolts at dropping anything. 

Chris
80’ C 30 MK1

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread bwhitmore via CnC-List
It's also pretty easy to weld yourself.  I posted an in depth report on the 
subject about 10 months ago.  Good skill to have in your back pocket.  I now 
use the same approach with other cracked plastics around the house.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: billbruce--- via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/5/18  7:55 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca Subject: Re: Stus-List 
water tank replacement suggestions 

 
  
   I had a 6" crack plastic welded for $30 a few years back. The tank is rock 
solid.
   

   
Bill Bruce
   
Landfall38
  
 
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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread detroito91 via CnC-List
You can always send the tank to Virginia tank repair in Roanoke vaThey "welded 
" my plastic tank for about $75.00.Big cost would be shipping from Vermont to 
Virginia. If you need any other information let me know
Jim Schwartz SEA YA!38 LFWashington nc


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: tim via CnC-List 
 Date: 6/5/18  1:10 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: hobie1...@comcast.net Subject: Stus-List water tank 
replacement suggestions 
Hi, After several attempts to repair a leaky (and cracked) water tank, I am 
really in the need of replacement.  The tank is approx.. 40 gal. and fits under 
the port side couch seats.   I’m guessing the tank is 20+ yrs old.   I am 
seeking suggestions for a source for replacement water tanks.  The current one 
has an angle to accommodate the hull bottom shape.  Thanks much for the advice. 
TimC 29’ MkI (1976)SV Sly FoxMalletts Bay, VT ___

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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread Chad Osmond via CnC-List
Did you try drilling the crack out to stop it and patching with G/Flex?

I did ours 3 years ago, and have had great success.
Mine cracked up and over the side and top, luckily near an area we had
access to.

Not sure if you want to give it a try or if you're already past that point,
but a small gflex kit is a lot less then a new tank or bladder.
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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
I replaced Touche's fresh water tank with a flexible bladder tank.  It's
great!  Each spring I simply unscrew the fill nozzle and discharge
fittings, drag it out on the dock and rinse it clean.  Throw it back in and
good to go.  Takes about 20 minutes.

There have been lots of threads on cracked rigid tanks.  Nearly zero on
problems with flex tanks.  Just saying.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jun 5, 2018 at 12:10 PM, tim via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> After several attempts to repair a leaky (and cracked) water tank, I am
> really in the need of replacement.  The tank is approx.. 40 gal. and fits
> under the port side couch seats.   I’m guessing the tank is 20+ yrs old.
>  I am seeking suggestions for a source for replacement water tanks.  The
> current one has an angle to accommodate the hull bottom shape.  Thanks much
> for the advice.
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> C 29’ MkI (1976)
>
> SV Sly Fox
>
> Malletts Bay, VT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
I'm in the process of replacing both my water tanks with Plastimo 
Bladder tanks that I bought from our friend at Holland Marine.  I got 2 
52 gallon tanks for about $320.  I got quotes from 4 or 5 places, for 
stainless, aluminum, plastic and bladders.


All were really pricey compared to these plastimos.  Practical sailor 
gave them a really good rating, a good friend has been using his for 
about 12 years and the owner of Holland marine claims he has been using 
his for 20 years I think.


Danny


On 6/5/2018 1:10 PM, tim via CnC-List wrote:


Hi,

After several attempts to repair a leaky (and cracked) water tank, I 
am really in the need of replacement.  The tank is approx.. 40 gal. 
and fits under the port side couch seats.   I’m guessing the tank is 
20+ yrs old.   I am seeking suggestions for a source for replacement 
water tanks.  The current one has an angle to accommodate the hull 
bottom shape.  Thanks much for the advice.


Tim

C 29’ MkI (1976)

SV Sly Fox

Malletts Bay, VT



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Re: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Try Ronco Marine Tanks.  They may have the exact tank, or at least something 
close.  The tanks are well built and not too expensive.  However, shipping it 
to you will likely be pricey.

From: tim via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2018 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: hobie1...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

Hi,

 

After several attempts to repair a leaky (and cracked) water tank, I am really 
in the need of replacement.  The tank is approx.. 40 gal. and fits under the 
port side couch seats.   I’m guessing the tank is 20+ yrs old.   I am seeking 
suggestions for a source for replacement water tanks.  The current one has an 
angle to accommodate the hull bottom shape.  Thanks much for the advice.

 

Tim

C 29’ MkI (1976)

SV Sly Fox

Malletts Bay, VT

 




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Stus-List water tank replacement suggestions

2018-06-05 Thread tim via CnC-List
Hi,

 

After several attempts to repair a leaky (and cracked) water tank, I am
really in the need of replacement.  The tank is approx.. 40 gal. and fits
under the port side couch seats.   I'm guessing the tank is 20+ yrs old.   I
am seeking suggestions for a source for replacement water tanks.  The
current one has an angle to accommodate the hull bottom shape.  Thanks much
for the advice.

 

Tim

C 29' MkI (1976)

SV Sly Fox

Malletts Bay, VT

 

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Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

2018-06-05 Thread Dan via CnC-List
G-Flex is my go to - it's inexpensive and comes in a caulking gun cartridge.
I used it to cover my keel joint before adding fairing compound and bbottom
paint. Fairing Compound doesn't seal water very well so you need something
strong and a little flexible. This is my first time using it below the
waterline but west systems says it works so I went with it.

Dan
Breakaweigh
C 44
Halifax, NS

On Tue, Jun 5, 2018 at 12:24 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hauled out today for a quick bottom job. Yard suggested fibreglass for the
> crack, but then there’s also G-Flex. Epoxy and fairing could be an option
> but that would add on to the project. Any success or opinions on one or the
> other? It’s a minor smile, no torquing keel bolts at dropping anything.
>
> Chris
> 80’ C 30 MK1
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass

2018-06-05 Thread bushmark4--- via CnC-List
I am in the middle of doing exactly what Dennis describes, except we are using 
Gflex for the faring; doing so on recommendation of local guy; no prior 
experience with it;

 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 506;




Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Mon, Jun 4, 2018 11:34 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Smile away - G-Flex or Fiberglass



Sand to virgin fiberglass and bare metal then quickly apply epoxy using a 3M 
ScotchBrite pad.  The pad will rub off any oxidation that forms.  The epoxy 
will prevent new oxidation from forming.  Then slap on 2 overlapping layers of 
4" biaxial tape with epoxy.  Sand, fair, paint, go sailing.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Mon, Jun 4, 2018 at 10:24 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hauled out today for a quick bottom job. Yard suggested fibreglass for the 
crack, but then there’s also G-Flex. Epoxy and fairing could be an option but 
that would add on to the project. Any success or opinions on one or the other? 
It’s a minor smile, no torquing keel bolts at dropping anything. 

Chris
80’ C 30 MK1

Sent from my iPhone
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Autopilot Installtion

2018-06-05 Thread schiller via CnC-List
Otto's brain is alive!  We finished installing and wiring up the S1 
Course Computer.  Rudder sensor in wired, Flux Gate Compass wired.  We 
had to lift the floor board to run the cable.  ST6002 Control Head 
installed on the pedestal guard. Stopped at Harbor Freight on the way up 
a got a set of Cobalt drill bits and a set of center drills and making 
the hole in the pedestal guard was remarkably easy.  Snaking Seatalk 
cable was not quite as easy.  The pedestal guard was pretty full with 
the Seatalkng cable, we ended up pulling the pedestal guard and working 
the cable first to the floor and then through the floor. Finally got 
it.  Powered up and we have life!  Next trip up will be to put the drive 
motor cable through the floor and install the Seatalk to Seatalkng 
converter, fish the GPS power/data cable down the port side tube and 
adding the NEMA lines to the S1.  The Seatalkng cables are significantly 
bigger than the seatalk and the PO ran separate cables for the wind and 
tridata (on either side of the pedestal guard).


We are getting close to commissioning the new installation.  More to come.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #28
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

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