Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Wade- FWIW- I have yanmar 3HMF with 2.14 ratio transmission and 
flexofold recommended a 2 blade 16x11.  It's worked very well the last 10 yrs. 



Get Outlook for iOS
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From: Wade Glew via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 12:45To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Wade Glew Subject: Stus-List Folding Propeller May I 
please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a folding 
propeller? I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 
RPMGear Ratio is 2, 62current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10 On 
Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller for 
your C 33 MK II sailboat."
GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  " 15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)
the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop 
and the cost is substantially higher.
I would appreciate any opinions
WadeOh Boy 33 MK II







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Re: Stus-List Folding prop Flexofold

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I have a Flexofold 3 blades on my 33 mkII with the original engine: 2GM 20F. It 
is very good, no vibrations with the 3 blades and very very efficient to stop 
the boat with almost no propwalk. But, I'm pretty sure mine is too big for my 
setup. I went with the recommandation from Flexofold. It is 15" but I don't 
remember the pitch. If you are looking at the 3 blades be aware of not going 
too big, the blade area is pretty large once open.

I would buy it again.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 6 nov. 2018 à 20:24, Dennis C. via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> In addition to Flex-o-Fold, I would look at Slipstream folders.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

In addition to Flex-o-Fold, I would look at Slipstream folders.

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Folding prop

[Howard and Skippy via CnC-List]

Folding Prop
I replaced the original folding prop with a Flex-o-fold and have been 
very happy with it. Now 5+  years old it still looks new after scraping 
off the summer crud. Excellent performance in forward and very good in 
reverse. Definitely worth looking at.

Howard Paul, Knot Again 35-3

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Re: Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David,

 

I had exactly the same problem with the new genoa halyard I installed before my 
trip to Bermuda last year. The outer layer of the halyard chafed through in 
just a couple of weeks of offshore sailing. As you noted, the chafe was a few 
inches above the furler swivel.

 

The culprit seemed to be the halyard restrainer installed for my roller 
furling. That restrainer was what I think of as a “Harken type”, with a sheave 
mounted in a 

metal yoke that could swivel from side to side (bad description, but you can 
google the Harken halyard restrainer to see what I mean).

 

In my case the halyard seemed to be chafing on the sides of the yoke as the 
sail moved around when sailing. More tension might have limited the chafe, but 
it would have also made furling more difficult.

 

When I replaced the halyard, I also replaced the restrainer with a boom bale 
that spans the front of the mast and through which both of my genoa halyards 
can be run. So far no recurrence of the chafe, though it is still early times.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 7:58 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List 34+ genoa halyard

 

Several years ago, I replace the wire/rope genoa halyard on my 34+ with 3/8” 
Maxbraid.  Every year since, the casing of the Maxbraid has been worn through 
by the end of the season.  I rarely lower the sail so don’t konw how fast it is 
happening.  I have not worried too much about it as the inner casing seems 
fine, but clearly there is a problem.  I have had not had the mast down since I 
bought the boat, but two riggers have gone up and looked at it and neither 
could figure out what the problem was.  Neither thought the sheave was the 
issue, but the place where the wear is occuring is about 8” above the furler 
swivel and roughly where the halyard enters the mast.  Has anyone else had a 
problem like this and found a solution?  Thanks- Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

check out this baby...I got the Bruntons H5 3 blade autoprop on my 35
MKII...it's great
https://www.ab-marine.com/feathering/auto-prop/
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 6:07 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
 wrote:
>
> ditto
>
> From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:08 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Gary Nylander
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller
>
>
> I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I 
> replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and 
> set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance 
> in forward and much better in reverse.
>
>
>
> They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and 
> pitch.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

ditto

From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 3:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I 
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and 
set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance in 
forward and much better in reverse.

 

They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and pitch.

 

Gary

30-1

 



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 




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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Have a look here:

http://www.flexofold.com/upload_dir/docs/Test_YachtingMonthly_low.pdf

The test is available at the Flex-o-Fold web site for obvious reasons (they 
came on top), but the test, as far as I know, was completely independent.

Marek

From: Wade Glew via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 12:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wade Glew
Subject: Stus-List Folding Propeller

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a 
folding propeller?

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller 
for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

I would appreciate any opinions

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II


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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I had a Max-Prop on my previous boat (35 Mk II) and I loved it.  I have a
Flex-o-Fold on my 37+ and like it just as much at half the price.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 3:09 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15
> years. I replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open
> the hatch and set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got
> better performance in forward and much better in reverse.
>
>
>
> They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and
> pitch.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> 30-1
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 6, 2018 2:26 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller
>
>
>
> Consider J-prop and max-prop.  I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as
> good in forward as it does in reverse.  No complaints.  The only real
> disadvantage is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions
> may not slide off like they can on a folder like a gori.  Initial cost
> seems high and refurbish costs seem about the same as the cost for new
> j-prop.  IIRC, Ken Heaton has a j-prop and as I recall I found myself
> envious of his setup.
>
>
>
> The max-prop does have the ability to adjust the pitch which means fine
> tuning and matching to many different boats and engines is possible.  The
> setup on the max prop is a bit more time consuming, messy, and (on the old
> versions) impossible to do by a diver underwater.  I think one of the other
> manufacturers has a more automatic and less involved setup.
>
>
>
> I would suggest that you ensure any folding prop options be geared.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 6, 2018 12:45 PM, "Wade Glew via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing
> a folding propeller?
>
>
>
> I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
>
> Gear Ratio is 2, 62
>
> current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10
>
>
>
> On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R
> propeller for your C 33 MK II sailboat."
>
>
>
> GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH –
> or 15" x 12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)
>
>
>
> the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately
> the same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
>
> I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate any opinions
>
>
>
> Wade
>
> Oh Boy 33 MK II
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am still very happy with my Flex-o-fold 2 blade prop after over 15 years. I 
replaced a non-geared prop because I was sick of having to open the hatch and 
set the shaft to a horizontal position when racing. I got better performance in 
forward and much better in reverse.

 

They were great to work with and gave accurate advice about diameter and pitch.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 2:26 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

 

Consider J-prop and max-prop.  I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as good 
in forward as it does in reverse.  No complaints.  The only real disadvantage 
is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions may not slide off 
like they can on a folder like a gori.  Initial cost seems high and refurbish 
costs seem about the same as the cost for new j-prop.  IIRC, Ken Heaton has a 
j-prop and as I recall I found myself envious of his setup.

 

The max-prop does have the ability to adjust the pitch which means fine tuning 
and matching to many different boats and engines is possible.  The setup on the 
max prop is a bit more time consuming, messy, and (on the old versions) 
impossible to do by a diver underwater.  I think one of the other manufacturers 
has a more automatic and less involved setup.

 

I would suggest that you ensure any folding prop options be geared.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

On Nov 6, 2018 12:45 PM, "Wade Glew via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a 
folding propeller?

 

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM

Gear Ratio is 2, 62

current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

 

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller 
for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

 

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

 

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)

I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

 

I would appreciate any opinions

 

Wade

Oh Boy 33 MK II

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Consider J-prop and max-prop.  I have a 3 blade max-prop and it works as
good in forward as it does in reverse.  No complaints.  The only real
disadvantage is that it is a feathering prop... So underwater obstructions
may not slide off like they can on a folder like a gori.  Initial cost
seems high and refurbish costs seem about the same as the cost for new
j-prop.  IIRC, Ken Heaton has a j-prop and as I recall I found myself
envious of his setup.

The max-prop does have the ability to adjust the pitch which means fine
tuning and matching to many different boats and engines is possible.  The
setup on the max prop is a bit more time consuming, messy, and (on the old
versions) impossible to do by a diver underwater.  I think one of the other
manufacturers has a more automatic and less involved setup.

I would suggest that you ensure any folding prop options be geared.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Nov 6, 2018 12:45 PM, "Wade Glew via CnC-List" 
wrote:

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing
a folding propeller?

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R
propeller for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15"
x 12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately
the same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

I would appreciate any opinions

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II



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Re: Stus-List Rudder squeak

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mine didn't have grease cups.  I installed zirc fittings.  Much easier to
do when the rudder is out.  I wish I had installed grease hoses and
remotely mounted the zircs in a more accessible location.

The squeak reported from the base of the pedestal is most likely the 2
sheaves crying out for replacement or lubrication.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Nov 6, 2018, 12:49 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease caps
> under the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the caps CW
> periodically to force grease into the tube. I can't remember if I reached
> in there from the foot of the quarter berth but I believe so. They are 3/4
> or 1 inch in diameter and length. That may help if the rudder post feels
> tight or squeaks.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
> (Past 1981 36 KCB owner)
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C burgee arrived! PAYPAL

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Will let Stu answer that one, i'm in Canada so i did an e-transfer from my bank 
to his. Was easy for me.

Bruno Lachance



De : CnC-List  de la part de Bill Dakin via 
CnC-List 
Envoyé : 6 novembre 2018 12:43
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : Bill Dakin
Objet : Re: Stus-List C burgee arrived! PAYPAL

Is PayPal the method of payment for these items?

Bill Dakin

I just want to tell everyone on the list that i recieved my C burgee and a 
few decals from Stu and i am very

https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Rudder squeak

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Mice?

Seriously,  My 37+ didn't have any grease fittings on the rudder, but it
only took about 15 minutes to install a couple.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 1:47 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I too have a squeak issue.  It seems to be coming from under the quadrant
> rather than the base of the pedistal.  Rudder seemed tight when I had her
> hauled in July...any ideas?
>
> Also, are there any of those grease fittings on the 37+/40?
>
> Tom B
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> At 10:07 AM 11/6/2018, you wrote:
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 12:49:02 -0500
> From: Len Mitchell 
> To: CNC List 
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder squeak
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
>
> Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease caps
> under the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the caps CW
> periodically to force grease into the tube. I can't remember if I reached
> in there from the foot of the quarter berth but I believe so. They are 3/4
> or 1 inch in diameter and length. That may help if the rudder post feels
> tight or squeaks.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On.
> (Past 1981 36 KCB owner)
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Rudder squeak

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I too have a squeak issue.  It seems to be coming from under the 
quadrant rather than the base of the pedistal.  Rudder seemed tight 
when I had her hauled in July...any ideas?


Also, are there any of those grease fittings on the 37+/40?

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 10:07 AM 11/6/2018, you wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 12:49:02 -0500
From: Len Mitchell 
To: CNC List 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder squeak
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease 
caps under the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the 
caps CW periodically to force grease into the tube. I can't remember 
if I reached in there from the foot of the quarter berth but I 
believe so. They are 3/4 or 1 inch in diameter and length. That may 
help if the rudder post feels tight or squeaks.

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On.
(Past 1981 36 KCB owner)





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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Good advice, Chuck. I was going by what was told to me. I never bothered to
check the manual for the correct lubricant.

Alan


On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 9:32 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on
> the chain and cables.  Chain lube is designed as lubricant for chains
> travelling at high speed on a motorcycle or bicycle and are specially
> designed to stick to the chain and not get flung off when moving quickly.
> The chain and cable on your boat moves very slowly.  Chain lube  is sticky
> messy stuff and spraying inside your pedestal will get lube all over
> everything including the brake shoes.  So once the brake shoes are
> contaminated with lubricant, you can forget about the brake holding the
> wheel in place.  Also dirt and other contamination will stick to chain lube
> with amazing tenacity.
>
> So, the proper method of lubricating the chain is to put some 30 weight
> oil on a rag and lightly apply the rag to the chain as you move the wheel
> back and forth.  Do the same on the cables, only this time, apply the oil
> to some tissue (Kleenex or similar) and run the tissue down the length of
> the cable.  If pieces of tissue remain on the cable, it is a good place to
> look for breaks in the cable strands that are the start of the dreaded
> cable meathooks (ie friction induced wear).  Replace the cables if any
> meat hooks are detected.
>
> I’m suggesting these methods because I worked on the customer service
> phone lines at Edson for about 10 years and those are the manufacturer’s
> recommended methods of lubing the chain and cable.  A much more likely
> candidate for the pedestal “squeak” are the sheaves that sit at the base of
> the pedestal.  If there are bronze axles on the sheaves, it is time to
> replace those with stainless sheave pins as they’re probably worn if they
> don’t receive periodic lubrication (again, 30 weight motor oil).  Even if
> there are stainless axles, it’s a good idea to check for cable orientation
> between the sheaves and the radial wheel.  Look for sharp edges on the
> grooves of the sheaves which indicate wear and friction due to
> misalignment.  Finally, check the idler plate itself for excessive
> corrosion.  If heavily rusted, that plate can actually flex and cause the
> sheaves to move back and forth under load.
>
> If this needs validation, check a publication called the Planning
> Installation and Maintenance Guide found on Edson Marine’s website.
> https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf
> 
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Wade

Our Frers 33 is very similar to the C 33-2.  Motor is normally a 2GM20 for 
the Frers 33 but Persistence has 3GM30F with Kanzaki KM3P  also 2.61:1

Two years ago we purchased a Flex-o-Fold 2 blade 16x12R geared propeller to 
replace the Martec RH16DX14-3 2 blade folding non-geared propeller.  The cost 
was $1205.00 USD at the time and we had a charge of $240CAD for duties and 
taxes when it arrived.  Total cost was just over $2000 CAD.  The propeller 
arrived at my door three days after order was placed.

With the Martec we had very good forward speed and thrust but poor reverse 
until the boat finally got moving in reverse.  The Flex-o-Fold is as food or 
better in fwd and has significantly better reverse .. but still not the same as 
a fixed prop.  Prop walk with the FOF seems less than the Martec as well.  
Vibration is supposed to be less but I cannot really tell.

Flex-o-fold were great to work with and everything came as advertised.  The 
propeller is a nice upgrade and that bit extra reverse thrust is nice to have! 
The only negative with the propeller is the cost since the boat was working 
well previously with the Martec so it was not really a necessary spend.

When the bottom is freshly cleaned we can motor at as high as 7.3 knots and 
cruise comfortably at 6.6-6.8 knots at 80% throttle.  I do not see any need for 
a three blade folding prop in our situation as we are never under powered or 
too little fwd thrust with the 2 blade.

I still have the Martec if anyone needs a prop that size

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wade Glew 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Wade Glew
Subject: Stus-List Folding Propeller

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing a 
folding propeller?

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R propeller 
for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15" x 
12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately the 
same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

I would appreciate any opinions

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II


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Stus-List Rudder squeak

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bailey, just to add to what Josh said there should be 1 or 2 grease caps under 
the cockpit floor to lube the rudder shaft. You turn the caps CW periodically 
to force grease into the tube. I can't remember if I reached in there from the 
foot of the quarter berth but I believe so. They are 3/4 or 1 inch in diameter 
and length. That may help if the rudder post feels tight or squeaks. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On. 
(Past 1981 36 KCB owner)

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Stus-List Folding Propeller

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

May I please request some input and advice from list members re purchasing
a folding propeller?

I have a Yanmar 20GM20F with constant rating of 16 HP at 3400 RPM
Gear Ratio is 2, 62
current prop is Michegan sailor fixed blade 16 RH 10

On Contacting FlexoFold they have recommended:  " a 2-blade 16X11R
propeller for your C 33 MK II sailboat."

GORI, on the other hand, have recommended:  "  15" x 12 x 2-blade RH – or 15"
x 12 x 3-blade RH (at twice the cost)

the cost of the FlexoFold and Gori 2 blade folding props are approximately
the same after shipping etc (about $1200 USD)
I don't know if I need a 3 blade prop and the cost is substantially higher.

I would appreciate any opinions

Wade
Oh Boy 33 MK II
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Re: Stus-List C burgee arrived! PAYPAL

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Is PayPal the method of payment for these items?

Bill Dakin
> I just want to tell everyone on the list that i recieved my C burgee and a 
> few decals from Stu and i am very
> 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

With all due respect to Alan’s suggestion, please don’t use chain lube on the 
chain and cables.  Chain lube is designed as lubricant for chains travelling at 
high speed on a motorcycle or bicycle and are specially designed to stick to 
the chain and not get flung off when moving quickly.  The chain and cable on 
your boat moves very slowly.  Chain lube  is sticky messy stuff and spraying 
inside your pedestal will get lube all over everything including the brake 
shoes.  So once the brake shoes are contaminated with lubricant, you can forget 
about the brake holding the wheel in place.  Also dirt and other contamination 
will stick to chain lube with amazing tenacity.

So, the proper method of lubricating the chain is to put some 30 weight oil on 
a rag and lightly apply the rag to the chain as you move the wheel back and 
forth.  Do the same on the cables, only this time, apply the oil to some tissue 
(Kleenex or similar) and run the tissue down the length of the cable.  If 
pieces of tissue remain on the cable, it is a good place to look for breaks in 
the cable strands that are the start of the dreaded cable meathooks (ie 
friction induced wear).  Replace the cables if any  meat hooks are detected.

I’m suggesting these methods because I worked on the customer service phone 
lines at Edson for about 10 years and those are the manufacturer’s recommended 
methods of lubing the chain and cable.  A much more likely candidate for the 
pedestal “squeak” are the sheaves that sit at the base of the pedestal.  If 
there are bronze axles on the sheaves, it is time to replace those with 
stainless sheave pins as they’re probably worn if they don’t receive periodic 
lubrication (again, 30 weight motor oil).  Even if there are stainless axles, 
it’s a good idea to check for cable orientation between the sheaves and the 
radial wheel.  Look for sharp edges on the grooves of the sheaves which 
indicate wear and friction due to misalignment.  Finally, check the idler plate 
itself for excessive corrosion.  If heavily rusted, that plate can actually 
flex and cause the sheaves to move back and forth under load.

If this needs validation, check a publication called the Planning Installation 
and Maintenance Guide found on Edson Marine’s website. 
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB381SteeringGuide.pdf

 

Good luck!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 10:50 AM
To: C 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

 

Use chain lubricant on the chain and on the cables. It comes in a spray can.




Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little squeaking 
I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The rudder feels 
tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is lubrication needed 
somewhere?

 

Any advice appreciated. 

 

Bailey White

1979 C 36


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=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bapfUT7pNIkd3hEBfYdwaOLNVxO3lp1QSZxgr_AS_rw=ojH_fuDC0Gm-v5NPpYp4nzt9a6PKI61eCB2sWGZZuSg=



 

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Stus-List C burgee arrived!

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all,


I just want to tell everyone on the list that i recieved my C burgee and a 
few decals from Stu and i am very happy with the quality of the flag. I figured 
that a good way to support the C photoalbum website and this list was: yes to 
give a small cash donation to Stu, but also get some of the chandlery items for 
me and my beloved C


It will be Christmas soon so why not treat your boat and yourself with a nice 
C burgee. I can't wait to fly mine at the first club race next summer.

Thank you Stu for the nice quality of the product. it looks very sharp!

Bruno Lachance
Proud C 33 mkII owner
Bécassine, New-Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can also verify the alignment of the cables on the turning sheaves
below the pedestal and the alignment of the cables as the engage with the
quadrant.

There are needle bearings on the shaft of the steering wheel.  A SMALL
amount of lithium (IIRC) grease in the hole above each of the 2 bearings is
sufficient.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018, 10:33 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
> squeaking I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The
> rudder feels tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is
> lubrication needed somewhere?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Bailey White
> 1979 C 36
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I don’t know about the 36 emergency tiller configuration, but I had a squeaking 
sound for a time on my 42.  On my boat, the emergency tiller connects to the 
top of the rudder post on the coaming behind the wheel.  Just below the 
connection point, the top of the rudder post has two small bronze wheels that 
rotate around a circular bronze flange screwed onto the deck.  The small bronze 
wheels are held in place by a threaded pin and nuts with nylon inserts at both 
ends.  The whole thing is protected from the elements by a fiberglass “hood” 
that screws into the top of the rudder post (about the size of a very large 
coffee mug).  Unbeknownst to me, one of the nuts came off, and one of the 
bronze wheels nearly worked its way off the pin (it was barely held in place by 
the fiberglass hood, thank God).  For much of the season I kept hearing a 
squeaking/grating sound, but thought it was the bottom of the hood rubbing on 
the deck.  I tried to remove the hood a couple times, but it was not 
cooperating.  Finally I had tolerated the sound long enough and decided that if 
I need to damage the hood, so be it.  When I got it off, I discovered that the 
system had nearly failed.  If you have anything similar on your boat, check it 
out.
 

From: Bailey White via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bailey White 
Subject: Stus-List squeaking rudder

All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little squeaking 
I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The rudder feels 
tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is lubrication needed 
somewhere? 

Any advice appreciated. 


Bailey White
1979 C 36



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Re: Stus-List squeaking rudder

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Use chain lubricant on the chain and on the cables. It comes in a spray can.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 7:32 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
> squeaking I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The
> rudder feels tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is
> lubrication needed somewhere?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Bailey White
> 1979 C 36
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> bapfUT7pNIkd3hEBfYdwaOLNVxO3lp1QSZxgr_AS_rw=ojH_fuDC0Gm-
> v5NPpYp4nzt9a6PKI61eCB2sWGZZuSg=
>
>
>
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Stus-List squeaking rudder

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

All of this talk on rudder bearings prompted me to ask about a little
squeaking I hear when I make fine movements on the helm sometimes.  The
rudder feels tight.  The cabling on the quadrant looks almost new.  Is
lubrication needed somewhere?

Any advice appreciated.

Bailey White
1979 C 36
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Some lines such as those with dyneema cores can be stripped.  I've had no
problem adding a cover to the end of my halyards.

As for Flemish eyes, the best trick I have seen is to put a zip-tie on them
to pass through clutches.

Joel

On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 8:53 AM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe that is called a flemish eye.
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 8:22 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Bruce
>>
>>
>>
>> I just had a halyard repaired due to chafe (just inside the mast approx.
>> 4 inches before sheave).  When I received it back from rigging shop was a
>> very small eye on the cockpit end.  It went easily through the clutch when
>> I re-ran it
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
>> Whitmore via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 05, 2018 6:55 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Dennis,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question.  If
>> your halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the
>> clutches?
>>
>>
>>
>> Just curious,
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>> *To:* CnClist 
>> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>>
>>
>>
>> Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I
>> buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is
>> more than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line,
>> all you need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.
>>
>>
>>
>> I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's
>> sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then
>> interchangeable.
>>
>>
>>
>> For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D"
>> bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must
>> use a screw pin snap shackle.
>>
>>
>>
>> In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length
>> needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Rejected messages part 2

[Stu Murray via CnC-List]

How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject line?

 

Don't worry -- punishment is being handed out and so far it is working.  The odd one might get thru but you are being watched.

 

Stu


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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Neil,

This is exactly, how I do it (with an exception that I don’t use bosun’s chair, 
but a climbing harness). If you really want to experiment with optimisation, 
make the foot loops very short, so that you don’t need to move the ascender by 
hand, but it would move with the feet. You could “caterpillar” your way up very 
quickly (this is what the caving people do, when they ascend from deep caves).

Brain, I still believe that you need 2 ascenders if you have help and three for 
solo work. What if your gri-gri halyard fails? Suddenly your only hope is that 
you catch the line on which you are standing.

When you are mountain climbing, you often rely on a single point for safety 
(single line, single belay point etc.), but you never do it when you do work 
(even if it is hobby work, like climbing the mast).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 23:19
To: Brian Fry via CnC-List
Cc: Neil Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

My version of this is to use two ascenders on a tight line, one with two foot 
loops attached, and the other attached to a bosun's chair.  I also have a 
halyard attached directly to the bosun's chair.  While my wife keeps tension on 
the halyard, I alternately step up using one hand and two feet, then slide the 
other ascender w/chair up, and then back to the foot loops, and repeat.  That 
way I do most of the climbing work but have the comfort of the chair, with the 
safety of the second halyard.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/5/2018 10:57 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , and a self 
belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I can get up my 37/40 
fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand in the loops to do work on 
equipment at the top.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon



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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rob,

I have wondered about "play" in the rudder myself and asked, "how much is
too much".  I had the rudder out about 5 years ago for rebuild.  There was
no scoring on the post and the only wear I could find in the bushings was a
bit of port/stbd ovaling.  At the bottom tip of the rudder I get about 1/4"
of play side to side.  It seems to correlate to a 1 to 2 inch play in the
wheel (Yes, I've tightened the drive cables appropriately.)  I notice it
most in choppy seas when sailing to weather.  Generally I don't think this
is a problem when hand steering but I wonder if it contributes to the over
active nature of my auto pilot.

Thoughts?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Nov 6, 2018, 9:09 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List  Presumably you only need to work on the bushings if the rudder post is
> flopping around . . . .
>
> If you have the ‘Velvet Touch’ on the helm, maybe your rudder post is a
> lot happier  . . . . . Ha  . . . .
>
> I’ve designed a couple of needle bearings in my time, so if I was rich,
> I’d be trying to get a couple of custom roller bearings as a replacement,
> but they would only cost several thousand dollars I suspect . . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,  *Rob Ball  **C 34*
>
> Rob:
>
>
>
> Is this a project that owners of all boats of a certain age should be
> doing (my boat is now over 40 years old), or are there indicators when this
> issue needs a closer look?
>
>
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List Rejected messages

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

How about rejecting messages that don't have, or don't change, the subject
line?

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=Nui5x3foUyvy1EW9tMgLGXs_
> PyxMrcAhd6Dk6dDekxA=EfujRZteQppqhg8olvk0opLHV4kL9J4Nt46B8dCrhEU=
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Yeah, I looked at those needle bearings.  To rich for my blood.  Of course,
the Delrin bearings lasted for 28 years and are still functional.  Just a
little worn longitudinally.  When I felt the play in the rudder, I felt the
need to drop it and inspect for any other serious problems.  In fact all
looks well, just a little wear.  Are the bearings epoxied in?  I was
suspecting a couple of grooves in the OD to give the epoxy something to
grip since, I doubt, epoxy will adhere to Delrin very well.

Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 9:09 AM Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Presumably you only need to work on the bushings if the rudder post is
> flopping around . . . .
>
> If you have the ‘Velvet Touch’ on the helm, maybe your rudder post is a
> lot happier  . . . . . Ha  . . . .
>
> I’ve designed a couple of needle bearings in my time, so if I was rich,
> I’d be trying to get a couple of custom roller bearings as a replacement,
> but they would only cost several thousand dollars I suspect . . . .
>
>
>
> Cheers,  *Rob Ball  **C 34*
>
> Rob:
>
>
>
> Is this a project that owners of all boats of a certain age should be
> doing (my boat is now over 40 years old), or are there indicators when this
> issue needs a closer look?
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Presumably you only need to work on the bushings if the rudder post is flopping 
around . . . .
If you have the ‘Velvet Touch’ on the helm, maybe your rudder post is a lot 
happier  . . . . . Ha  . . . .
I’ve designed a couple of needle bearings in my time, so if I was rich, I’d be 
trying to get a couple of custom roller bearings as a replacement, but they 
would only cost several thousand dollars I suspect . . . .

Cheers,  Rob Ball  C 34

Rob:

Is this a project that owners of all boats of a certain age should be doing 
(my boat is now over 40 years old), or are there indicators when this issue 
needs a closer look?


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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I believe that is called a flemish eye.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 8:22 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bruce
>
>
>
> I just had a halyard repaired due to chafe (just inside the mast approx. 4
> inches before sheave).  When I received it back from rigging shop was a
> very small eye on the cockpit end.  It went easily through the clutch when
> I re-ran it
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 05, 2018 6:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>
>
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
>
>
> I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question.  If your
> halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the
> clutches?
>
>
>
> Just curious,
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard
>
>
>
> Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I
> buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is
> more than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line,
> all you need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.
>
>
>
> I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's
> sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then
> interchangeable.
>
>
>
> For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D"
> bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must
> use a screw pin snap shackle.
>
>
>
> In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.
>
>
>
> I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length
> needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Rob:

Is this a project that owners of all boats of a certain age should be doing 
(my boat is now over 40 years old), or are there indicators when this issue 
needs a closer look?

From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 8:32 AM
To: Gary Russell ; C List 
Cc: Rob Ball ; Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

Gary,

 

When you get the new bearings(bushings) made – there are better materials out 
there for the job.  

I have seen graphite lined and different mixtures of materials that are tougher 
and more slippery . . .

 

Cheers,

Rob Ball – C 34



 



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Stus-List Rejected messages

[Stu Murray via CnC-List]

Recently, I have had to reject several messages every day.  Why?  We have a limit of 50K per email message which means if you try to add photos, don't trim your messages and maybe send a reply to a digest, your message might get rejected.

 

Remember too -- all (I mean ALL) of your messages get archived.  Last week, my cost for storage of archived messages took another jump.  We are now on the 2nd tier of storage costs.  If you do not trim your messages it means that the same message is archived 3-4 or more times and all that does is chew up storage.

 

Don't get upset if your message is rejected -- just overhaul it a bit and you will not have a problem.

 

Stu

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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Joel- I considered a dyneema cover but thought it would make the line even 
thicker and so more likely to be abused.  But does anyone know if it is 
possible to remove the cover from the last few feet and add a dyneema cover 
there?  Dave

> On Nov 5, 2018, at 4:21 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Once you figure out the problem, add a cover to the last couple feet of 
> halyard.
> 
> http://www.apsltd.com/line/sailboat-line-rope-cover-only.html 
> 
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 3:33 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Gary,

When you get the new bearings(bushings) made – there are better materials out 
there for the job.
I have seen graphite lined and different mixtures of materials that are tougher 
and more slippery . . .

Cheers,
Rob Ball – C 34


From: Gary Russell 
Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018 7:39 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

Gentlemen,
 I must admit that I always intend to take lots of pictures to record my 
progress, then fail to do it because I am so focused on the goal that I forget 
the record keeping.  I will try to do better.  I have set up a Google Drive 
folder with a few picture to start 
here.
  Keep coming back as I add more (when the weather clears).  Meanwhile, the 
rudder is out and hanging in my garage.  The bearings show significant wear in 
the longitudinal direction and less in transverse.  There appears to be no 
other significant damage.  My next project is to get the bearings out.  The 
bearings are (nominally) 3" ID 4.125" OD.  The top bearing is 2.5 " long and 
the bottom is 3.0".  My next step is to remove the bearings.  I'm hoping to 
pull them with a slide hammer puller, but will probably have to cut them out.  
The bearings are made out of Delrin (acetal plastic).  Once out I will make new 
ones (having a lathe helps a lot).  More to come.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

I just had a halyard repaired due to chafe (just inside the mast approx. 4 
inches before sheave).  When I received it back from rigging shop was a very 
small eye on the cockpit end.  It went easily through the clutch when I re-ran 
it

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 6:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Hi Dennis,

I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question.  If your 
halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them through the clutches?

Just curious,

Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is EXACTLY why I buy 
extra length on my halyards (and sheets).  Damage to running rigging is more 
than likely going to happen near an end.  If you bought extra line, all you 
need do is to cut off the damaged part and end for end the line.

I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For Touche's 
sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and the ends are then 
interchangeable.

For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets a "D" bail 
snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second version must use a screw 
pin snap shackle.

In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.

I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact length 
needed.  He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once over the years.

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Gentlemen,
 I must admit that I always intend to take lots of pictures to record
my progress, then fail to do it because I am so focused on the goal that I
forget the record keeping.  I will try to do better.  I have set up a
Google Drive folder with a few picture to start here
.
Keep coming back as I add more (when the weather clears).  Meanwhile, the
rudder is out and hanging in my garage.  The bearings show significant wear
in the longitudinal direction and less in transverse.  There appears to be
no other significant damage.  My next project is to get the bearings out.
The bearings are (nominally) 3" ID 4.125" OD.  The top bearing is 2.5 "
long and the bottom is 3.0".  My next step is to remove the bearings.  I'm
hoping to pull them with a slide hammer puller, but will probably have to
cut them out.  The bearings are made out of Delrin (acetal plastic).  Once
out I will make new ones (having a lathe helps a lot).  More to come.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Tue, Nov 6, 2018 at 2:21 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Pics please.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Nov 5, 2018, at 7:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 17:57:25 -0500
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc: michaelfamira...@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ Rudder Bearing
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Well, the rudder is off.  I wasn't easy, but not terrible either.  3 of the
> 4 3/8" bolts that hold the radial wheel in place came out with a lot of
> heat and patience.  The fourth broke.  Fortunately, it broke at the
> interface between the two halves of the wheel, so I could easily get the
> wheel off.  Once off I was able to drill out and re-tap the threads as good
> as new.  Now to get the bearings out and make new ones.  More to come.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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