Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Dave and Chuck,
Thank you for your replies. I will give Annapolis and hatchmasters a call.
I finally found 3/8 cast in 2074 in Californis.  I wanted the 3/8 for the
same reason - people stepping on it.  The shipping is half the price of the
sheet, so hopefully I can find it on the east coast.

Thanks again.

David

On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 2:30 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Hey David,
> I used a company called Annapolis Maritime Plastics to make new cast
> acrylic panels for my windows several years ago.  They are a little pricey
> but do quality work and do what the say.   Cost me $1000 to make all my
> side windows to template in 1/4" thick 2074.  Limosene dark.  I more
> recently had the cabintop slider and window pane made and that cost me $500
> for 3/8" thick 2074.  Thicker because people stand on it.  The company used
> to have a large storefront for years but lost people during COVID and was
> taken over by a guy who works out of his home workshop.
>
> I would highly recommend them for their work, but you might find a better
> bargain, elsewhere.
>
> https://maritimefabrication.com/
> 410-263-4424
>
> Dave S does some beautiful work, but considering all the time and money,
> I'd buy new hatches and upgrade to one of the newer style, lower profile,
> venting models.  New frame, new hardware, new hinges, new lever locks,
> etc.  But that's just my two cents.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 03/26/2023 6:29 AM David Swensen via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
> Thanks,
> David Swensen
> Freya 35MK3
> Beverly, MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
>
> Dave - 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
Thanks,
David Swensen
Freya 35MK3
Beverly, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
> 
> Dave - 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Here is a video using the HB tape
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8

On Sat, Feb 11, 2023 at 11:17 PM Mike Nicholls via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my port-lights on my Cand C 35 Mark III that I acquired in the
> fall of 2019. In July of 2021, I replaced the crazed and leaking
> port-lights that were held with plexus and bolts.  They no longer leak and
> are held in place only with ¾ inch 3M VHB tape and Dowsil 795 (no bolts).
> Some gelcoat will get damaged and will need to be replaced. I also needed
> to fill in the 80 or so bolt holes using reinforced polyester resin.
> Removal of the Plexus is best done using a Fein multi-tool. Sanding of the
> gelcoat is also easier with this tool. The best article to help me was on
> the S/V Violet Blog---How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat.
> The Scheafer Article is also useful as was Boat Works Today.  When you
> place the acrylic ensure that a lot of pressure is used to adapt the
> acrylic to the tape. This is very important. At first apply considerable
> pressure using your body weight. But first try in the sheet and use washers
> to support the acrylic and also to get the proper spacing for the Dowsil
> 795. Placing the acrylic requires 2 people. Use masking tape with markers
> to also help lining up the acrylic. I put pressure on the acrylic overnight
> using a number of 20 Kg weights (for weight training) hung off the hand
> rails. Make sure the fore and aft ends are especially weighted down. I
> sealed around with Dowsil the next day. It is best to do this in warmer
> weather to get the best bond to the VHB tape. This is a time consuming
> project but is well worth it. All the best.
>
>
>
> Mike Nicholls
>
> C and C 35 Mark III Moondance
>
>
>
> *From:* StrightR--- via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* February 9, 2023 2:00 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* strig...@eastlink.ca
> *Subject:* Stus-List Replacing cabin windows
>
>
>
> A couple of years ago there was an excellent thread on replacing cabin
> windows using acrylic, 3M ultra high bond tape and black silicone sealant.
> Anyone happen to have a copy of that?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Danny,
You may want to give a call to Clarkes in Jamestown RI. My boat was there
when I bought it 3 years ago. They seemed reasonably priced and let me do
my own work.
David Swensen
Freya  35 MK3

On Wed, Sep 21, 2022 at 11:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Andy,
>
> when are you going?  maybe I'll shadow you down!
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Andrew Burton 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA
> Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2022 15:17:50 -0400
>
> Well, I take my boat to Oxford, MD, a nice three day cruise away. Labor
> rates are cheaper and a friend owns a yard nearby.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Sep 20, 2022, at 13:27, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Holey cow!  All these yards are full and a few are taking names for a
> waiting list!  I might just be in a Pickle here...
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: DJ via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: DJ 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA
> Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2022 08:08:57 -0400
>
>
> That's good info Neil,  thanks!
>
> On Sep 17, 2022 12:05 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My info might be a bit old but when I bought my boat it had been in
> Somerset Marina for 3 yrs on the hard.  It was marginal for a 35' sailboat,
> could only launch at high tide, had to bring in an outside crane to hoist a
> mast more than 50'.  On the other hand it was a good place for DIY, they
> didn't care what you did on the boat.  The yard crew was good, the owner
> bit of a crank.  Use with caution, I guess.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 9/17/2022 11:53 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> No. I don't know anything about any of these yards except that they aren't
> owned by Safe Harbor.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 11:49 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Andy!   Taunton river sounds convenient for winter work!  Close to
> the house!
>
> I was also considering somerset marina on the Taunton River.  Any thoughts
> on that facility?
>
> On Sep 17, 2022 11:14 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Danny,
> Check out Stanley's in Bristol and Shaws, O'connell's and Bristol Marine
> up the Taunton River. I think everything else in Narragansett Bay is owned
> by Safe Harbor.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
> On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 10:36 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for winter storage somewhere
> around Buzzards Bay. Narragansett bay is an option too.
>
> The yard I was using needs to drop the mast and they can be a little
> clumsy. They've damaged my boat several times in their handling and I've
> done a massive amount of cosmetic work over the last couple of years that
> I'd like to protect.
>
> I've also just completely rehabbed the mast. So, dropping it seems like a
> waste of effort and cost right now. So, I'd like to find a mast up solution
> if possible.
>
> Thanks for any insights anyone can offer!
>
> Danny
> Rum Runner IV
> T40
> Mattapoisett MA
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am not sure about the Mk 1, but the Mk 3 bolts are 1" and the nuts are 1
1/2".
David

On Sun, Aug 28, 2022 at 6:17 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone know the socket sizes needed to tighten them?
>
> I had this info somewhere and it vanished ☹
>
>
>
> THANKS!!
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Cost to replace UV cover

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Painted UV protection?

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.practical-sailor.com/sails-rigging-deckgear/the-case-of-the-painted-jib%3Famp%3D1

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 21, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I think I am going to use the sew-on cover again, the sock seems a little 
> involved. Last time I had a UV cover done it was $500 or so, inflation sucks. 
> I am going to ask around a few places. One thing that can bug you about an 
> old boat is fixing the same stuff over and over. I am after batteries again 
> and that isn’t going to be cheap either just like the last time or the one 
> before that or the one before that….
>  
> To make it even worse, going to Saint Michael’s on Saturday the wind was 
> CRANKING from astern, way too much for the spinnaker, the genoa is in the 
> shop, and I don’t even have my working jib anymore. We ended up using just 
> the main and that was good for hitting 8 knots, but the balance was terrible. 
> Steering a straight line and not rounding up was a bit of a challenge.
> In hindsight dragging out the storm jib would have been worth it for balance.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  

Stus-List Re: Jamestown distributors

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

They have been online only for a year. They still answer the phone and give
great advice,

On Sat, Apr 30, 2022 at 12:26 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hope it’s just the retail part and they’re going to be all on line.
> They’ve always been a great resource.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
>
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2022, at 11:58, DJ via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> 
> Hi all,
> Did you guys know Jamestown distributors closed the store?
>
> I'm sat here in their driveway looking at a sign that reads,  "the store
> is permanently closed"
>
> Google said they're open...
>
> Danny
>
> On Apr 18, 2022 11:19 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> Today is the last day to get your custom C cutting board with free
> boat name and font.  A savings of up to $8.00
>
> Order form is on the C Photo Album site -- http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
>
> Stu
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: C 38-3 keel stub repair complication, could use advice

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Tracy,
I rebuilt the keel stub on my 35-3 last year, with guidance from a few guys
on this list. The design is slightly different on the 38-3, based in your
diagrams.
Is that aft keel bolt loose? What is the condition of the area around that
bolt? Are there backing plates for the keel bolts, or just washers?
Water may be working its way through the crack you mentioned in the aft of
the keel ( which might suggest a previous grounding, as does the loose aft
bolt and the smile).
I am not sure if you will need to excavate the blue foam if you grind, fill
and glass the crack in the aft if the keel from the outside. I did the
forward portion of my keel stub from inside and out.  I would recommend
backing plates for all of the bolts. I used G10 to add a little umph to the
base of the keel stub and then 1/4" stainless plates. Then be sure to
torque those nuts to spec.
David Swensen
Freya 35-3
Beverly, MA


On Thu, Apr 14, 2022, 3:24 PM Tracy Tims via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My boat developed a touch of smile on the port side of the keel, along
> with a bit of a crack near its aft edge. The crack very slowly leaked
> antifreeze from the bilge when on the hard.
>
> So I opened it up and I found what might be a manufacturing defect. The
> crack was into a porous resin-starved part of the skin, admitting water
> into the aft portion of the keel stub, which seems to be an enclosed box
> filled with blue stuff. The blue stuff was cracked and soggy. (I’m
> presuming the blue stuff is polyester resin with filler.)
>
> See pics for the exciting details:
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0h532ODWJEHCio
>
> I’m trying to figure out the best repair plan. Do I:
> 1. Just build up patches over what is currently there without worrying
> about the internal structure too much?
> 2. Remove all the filler, find water route between box and sump and seal
> it, tab in and build up structural reinforcement, and then patch over all
> that?
> 3. Something in between those options?
>
> Even more confusing is that my boat is not constructed as drawn in the
> manual. It looks like someone (factory? an engineering revision?) expanded
> the box forward, engulfing what looks like part of the aft sump divider.
> The good news is that the keel bolts all look great, there’s no leaks I can
> detect along the joint except at the aft end, via that box of cracked blue
> whatever it is.
>
> - Tracy
> (I hope this doesn’t come through twice… I accidentally submitted it from
> the wrong email address the first time.)

Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Check the solenoid connection, as well. On my boat, the PO used tape to
connect the Solenoid wires to the switch. Of course, the connection had
come undone. The solenoid was corroded, and still didn't work with a proper
connection, so I still had to replace it.

 A mini me would come in handy when adjusting the steering cables and
making electrical connections under the cockpit.

David Swensen
Freya,  35-3
Beverly, MA

On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 8:00 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What Dave said is essentially correct.
>
> 1.  Make sure the tank has gas in it.  Shake it, and if you feel liquid
> sloshing around, you have fuel.
>
> 2.  Check the solenoid.  Have someone flip the switch inside while you're
> at the solenoid.  It should make a distinct clip and get warm.
>
> 3.  Check the stove and when trying to light it, you should hear the
> distinct should of air/gas coming out of the burner(s).  Note that
> depending on the street, you may have to hold the knob in or do something
> else to override the safety to start the burner.  Once it is started, there
> should be a thermocouple that heats up to allow the flame to keep burning.
> If you hear gas/air, you may have to keep at trying to start the unit for a
> minute or two to purge the air out of the system.  If you're getting the
> hissing sound, it's probably not the regulator.
>
> 4.  If the solenoid clicks, but you're not getting gas, its probably the
> regulator.  They're easy to get online or at a RV store.
>
> 5.  Once you have it working, use the pressure gauge to check for system
> leaks.  Leave the solenoid on and pressurize the system.  Turn off the tank
> valve.  The system should stay at the same pressure for 5 to 10 minutes.
> If not, you have a leak somewhere you need to find.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question > List as Text Attachements

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Rods original email came through, with Dave S's with no body to the
message. Brian's came through, and showed Rods, but no body to Rod's
message. Didn't see anything in my spam folder.
David

On Sun, Mar 6, 2022 at 10:36 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Am the same, also with Outlook, though a few rare ones come through with
> actual text in the body of the email.
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* Rod Stright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 6, 2022 6:10 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Rod Stright 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 35-3 Bimini question
>
>
>
>
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List 35-3 Bimini question

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am going to try my hand at some canvas work by adding a bimini to my
35-3. I am looking to use a Sailrite kit. Any other 35-3 owners out there
who have done this? Did you use a 2-bow frame, or 3 bow? Mounting from rear
pulpit or deck? I also want to add a flexible 100 W solar panel on top.
Will the 2 bow support it? SailRite said it should, but I am looking for
real world experience:) Any advice is appreciated.

David Swensen
Freya 35-5
Beverly, MA
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Trying to locate

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Hi Stu
This is David. My number is 9785781375. In US. Call or text me, or email at
ka123dswense...@gmail.com

On Sat, Feb 12, 2022, 1:17 PM Stu via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> I am trying to get in touch with David Swensen in Beverly, MA. If
> anybody is in contact with him, please tell to get in touch with me.  Or
> maybe somebody can look up his phone number.
>
> Please send info to me at stumur...@post.com and not to the list.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stu
>

Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I will add my two cents. I received great advice and guidance from members
of this list when the keel on my 35-3 was swinging in the wind, and leaking
like a sieve. I would agree that because you do not have any water making
its way into the sump, your seal is good, and tightening the bolts to spec,
with 1/4 inch backing plates,  should snug up your keel. Don't assume that
water is not trying to make it's way into the crack at the seam, so I would
grind that out, fill, glass, and fair, then use an epoxy primer before
applying bottom paint. If your bolts snug to spec, then you can feel good
about the other end of them being secure in the lead keel.
This fix is totally doable by yourself.  My 35-3 required more
intensive repair of the keel stub (Thanks Dave S and Doug for your
guidance), but my cost to repair was a small fraction of the quote  I
received from the boat yard ($1700 in materials and ~80 or so hours of my
time vs. $16-20,000 for the yard to do it).  If your bolts are currently at
spec, then I would look at lateral stability as Dave S suggested.  Your
material cost would be much lower, as I needed 15 gallons of polyester
resin to rebuild my keel stub/mast step.
David Swensen
s/v Freya 35MK3
Beverly, MA

On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:39 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think you said it was not leaking water from the outside into the bilge.
> If that's the case then the seal is still OK. I think if you do the repair
> you will be good to go. If you sell and move on to something different the
> new owner will have to fix it anyway and that will likely reduce
> considerably what you get for the boat  and it may not interest a buyer as
> is. The fix doesn't look too complicated from what i can see in the photos.
>
> On Mon, Jan 3, 2022 at 6:16 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> These responses are super helpful! Four years in, we remain novices,
>> which makes it hard to even know the questions to ask. No matter the
>> approach we take, it is clear that replacing the washers and adding backing
>> plates is part of the project. I was a little perplexed by the aft keel
>> bolt washers and unsuccessfully poked around the internet for a while
>> trying to figure out if that was normal or something done by a previous
>> owner.
>>
>> We did have a soft grounding in mud on the side of a channel while
>> motoring back to our marina this fall (in full view of everyone, including
>> incoming flights to DCA, of course). We were going pretty slow and ended up
>> drifting/sliding off, but physics is tricky, so I have no idea what was
>> going on down there. About a week later we had the boat hauled and
>> transported by trailer to her new home about an hour away. Maybe that
>> loosened things up? Luckily we now have better access to boatyards. We've
>> had folk from two take a look at the keel while the boat was in slings (our
>> new marina and another boatyard), but have not had a formal survey. While
>> we got an estimate for the keel-drop/re-bedding, both suggested that the
>> tightening/filling route is an option. There is also the "another boat"
>> option to consider. It is greener, and just on the other side of the fence.
>>
>> So, my new question is, if we do have keel bolt degradation, bolt hole
>> elongation (not entirely sure what this is, but it sounds dire), or
>> structural damage to the sump, would we still expect wiggle after
>> tightening? In other words, if we tighten the keel bolts and wiggle ceases,
>> has the problem most likely been resolved?
>>
>> Thank you for the insights!
>>
>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Monday, January 03, 2022 12:35 PM
>>> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
>>> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: 25 MKII - Smiling?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have to agree with Dwight on the backing plates, ESPECIALLY the aft
>>> most one, I think. It looks like they cut the edges off the stack of
>>> washers, so the nut would fit in that tight space with a socket. I can see
>>> where the washers rotated with the tightening, and are chewing into the
>>> fiberglass big time. Maybe a 3/8” plate that just fits into that space,
>>> then either a short piece of heavywall SS Pipe as a spacer and then a
>>> couple washers, or take that stack of washers and orient them correctly,
>>> and compress them with a bolt onto the backing plate, and have a welder
>>> fuse them together with a TIG without getting it too hot. Just enough to
>>> keep them from rotating. Then put in back in and tighten it up to specs.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 2, 2022 at 3:32 PM Stephen Kidd via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>> Happy New Year! We're hoping to get some insights on an issue we are
>>> having with our keel. We recently had our 25 MKII hauled for some winter
>>> projects and were surprised to see that the keel "wiggled" when the boat
>>> was on the 

Stus-List Re: Used Tuff Luff or Harken carbo foil

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Rod,
I have an old streamstay with double tracks. Email me if interested
David Swensen

On Tue, Dec 21, 2021, 5:28 AM Rod Stright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Folks,
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a used racing foil they are no longer using?  Tuff Luff
> or Harken #6 luff tape and approx.  45’ in length.
>
>
>
> Rod Stright
>
> Halifax
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I had my rods reheaded and a new forestay and harken furler installed on my
35-3 this summer. The cost was 8800. Mast down and back up was a little
over 1000 total. I am just outside of Boston, where prices are generally on
the high end
David Swensen
Freya
35 MK3
Beverly, MA

On Fri, Oct 1, 2021, 1:51 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List 
wrote:

> As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a
> cost for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I
> thought $1500 was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our
> 29-2, so maybe prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to
> what kind of costs folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if
> this is reasonable. I also recently got a quote for $4500 which then
> ballooned to $9000 and counting to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does
> this sound at all in the ballpark?
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I have had Progressive for 11 years. I had a claim on my previous boat.
They came and made an assessment of the damage and I had a check 3 days
later. I was told if the repairs were over the amount they sent me to send
the receipt and they would review and send an additional check if
necessary. The cost was about 300 more, and they sent another check to
cover it.
I now use them for my current boat. Most of the people you speak with are
auto oriented, but they are helpful and will find an answer for you.

On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 at 9:26 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've had Progressive for the last twelve years.  Never had a claim.  No
> survey required during that time.  I got it mostly for liability and
> becasue marinas require it, but my policy also has a stated "cash value" in
> case of loss.  Each year the premium drops a little, (like $20) so I always
> renew.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 09/27/2021 4:11 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I too am considering moving to Progressive to save ~ $1200 per year.
>
> I have never had a claim except for towing and now I use Boat-US for
> that--$250/year which I may drop.
>
> Before I switch, has anyone had any experience with the claims
> procedure/reimbursement from Progressive--good, bad or indifferent?
>
> Saving money on insurance is a fools errand if you have to hire a lawyer
> to get them to pay a claim.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom
> Greenville, NC
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
> Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2021 1:11 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
> They didn't ask me for a survey.
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 27, 2021 at 9:48 AM Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> When I switched to Progressive this year, I was told that the underwriting
> department would review the application and decide if a survey was needed.
> After reviewing the application, they decided a survey was not needed.
>
> Matt Wolford
> 1976 C 42 Custom
>
> *From:* Glenn Henderson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 25, 2021 10:57 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Glenn Henderson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance
>
> Did they require a full survey?
>
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C 41
> WeGo
>
> On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my
> insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check,
> I asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of
> insurance was $487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7MqgDHdT_VmgVntkqgpVX2PLoZU-m4LEgxz6ik17i-lnVDTWNuAjh_EHOC7KWmzP91g$
>  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boric Acid Powder

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I do not know about using Boric Acid with spiders, but I know my brother is
in Dunkirk, NY and they have mucho spiders there. He uses peppermint oil,
and it seems to work pretty well. He dabs soaked cotton balls around the
compalionway, hatches, and portholes, and I believe docklines.

David Swensen
Freya
35 MKIII
Beverly, MA

On Mon, Aug 30, 2021 at 10:48 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone ever tried Boric Acid for spiders?
>
> We have gobs of them here on the lakes.
>
>
>
> Practical Sailor just had some discussion on using this for Cockroaches,
> and I see now, silverfish and water bugs – but I see no mention of spiders.
>
> I am trying to get away from spider spray, for obvious reasons, and this
> looks like a much more friendly alternative, but if it won’t work, well
> then . . . I guess back to the drawing board.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C smile and rust

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Is it possible that the crack is below the actual keel hull joint?
When you look again, send more pics from inside and out, including the keel
bolts.

On Tue, Aug 3, 2021, 2:45 PM Greg Van Nest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't know
> if it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be
> irritating.
>
> I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find
> anything exactly helpful.
>
> I was looking at a Mk I C 30, and noticed the "C Smile" on both sides
> of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. Certainty
> not a non-starter, walkway problem.
>
> But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the keel
> joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on the port
> side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.
>
> I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a walk-around
> outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer this week, including
> interior and looking in the bilge, but thought I'd ask here first what
> people think. I've linked two pictures (port and starboard).
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,
>
> Greg
>
> Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9
> Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: olympics

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

My parents put me in sailing lessons when I was 7 (Wet Pants Sailing,
Sayville, NY).My instructor was a Finn sailor. As a treat at the end of the
summer, he took me out on his Finn. I wanted one ever since. It took me 40
years, but I finally got one ( 11 years ago). No fleets around here. I have
been sailing bigger boats now, but once or twice a summer, I just have to
get wet and take the finn out on a good windy day.
Both boats are fun to sail,   and though I have only had the 35mk3 in the
water less than 2 months, both are technical to sail well and get the most
out of them.

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021, 8:32 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> I suppose the Finn is a great boat to sail.  Do you have some experience
> with Finns?
>
> I started with a Sunfish but didn't like having to find someone to help me
> lift it onto my car's roof racks as she's too heavy for one person.  I
> later got a 22' sloop that I kept in a boatslip.  Then I got into
> windsurfing and enjoyed the portability of a board that weighs under twenty
> pounds.  Sold the sloop and started exploring different beaches with our
> windsurfers.  After fifteen years, I got our C 34R and got back into
> "sitdown" sailing.   Initially we cruised her, then I raced with crew and
> more recently I set her up to singlehand and cruise and race her that way.
> She's a lot of fun.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 07/25/2021 1:27 PM David Swensen via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> It is a little sad that this will be the last Olympics for the Finn.
>
> On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 12:54 PM John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> yes
> 2 Man Volley ball Amazing story and  match!
> Woman’s indoor quite interesting as well.
> Can’t wait for the sailing ⛵️!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
>
> On Jul 25, 2021, at 7:18 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Anybody watching the Olympics?  I follow on YouTube.  Tuesday will be the
> start of the 49er class.
>
> C
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: olympics

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

It is a little sad that this will be the last Olympics for the Finn.

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 12:54 PM John Conklin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> yes
> 2 Man Volley ball Amazing story and  match!
> Woman’s indoor quite interesting as well.
> Can’t wait for the sailing ⛵️!
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
>
> On Jul 25, 2021, at 7:18 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Anybody watching the Olympics?  I follow on YouTube.  Tuesday will be the
> start of the 49er class.
>
> C
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: solar fans

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Chuck,
What is the placement of your solar fans?

On Thu, Jul 1, 2021 at 5:42 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, I think solar fans make more sense than opening ports. Opening ports
> are nice to have but when the breeze stops, the air stops moving.  Rain and
> spray can enter an opening port easily while the new model solar fans
> protect from rain and they will work automatically when the boat is closed
> up and keep it smelling fresh.
>
> I have four solar fans on my 35 footer.  Some solar fans like my Nicro
> fans have a rechargable battery and run all night.  My Nicro fans have an
> On/Off switch and a damper to close in rough weather.  I couldn't find them
> anywhere so they may be out of business.  I have two off-brand chinese
> model fans that don't have batteries and only run when it's sunny.  I had
> Marinco fans but they stick up three inches above the deck and caught the
> sheets too often.  The cheaper chinese fans work better for my purposes as
> they stick up only 1 inch and lines roll right over them.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1990 C 34R
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Keel bolt torque with antisieze

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am finally about to rebed the keel on Freya (35MK3). The Torque table
indicates a value of 300 ft lbs for a 1" bolt. I have read a variation of
adjustments to that value if using antisieze "lubricant". I have Tufgel, so
I plan on using that. The values I have read regarding the torque for wet
bolts  vary from 56% to 80% of the dry torque. That results in a  range  of
anywhere from  228 to 280 ft lbs using wet bolts.

Am I on the right track with this? and if so, any comments on the
"corrected" wet bolt torques?

Thanks in advance

David Swensen
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Insurance for Older Boats

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I had also used Progressive for my  previous boat, a 75 Ranger 28.  They
were great. I think they  actually have USAA manage the policy.  Now I
have  updated to a much newer 85 C and they didn't even ask for a copy if
my survey

David Swensen
Freya
35 MK3
Beverly, MA

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021, 9:09 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am using Progressive and they had no issues with a 1973 boat.
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* David Morris via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 22, 2021 9:04 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Insurance for Older Boats
>
>
>
> In the course of jumping through hoops imposed by our insurance carrier
> for our 1975 C 30 MK1, I had an email from a senior VP with Gallagher
> Skipper’s Plan that says, in part: “In the today’s market it is extremely
> difficult to find insurers willing to write sailboats over 40 years old.
> These boats have a high incidence of fires, rigging failures, pulled
> chainplates, and rudder failures and are considered high risk. Five
> insurance companies have stopped offering quotes for sailboats over 30 and
> the few that will offer it are very picky.” This, of course, is highly
> concerning. Any recommendation for a carrier that is more favourably
> inclined to cover an older boat would be most appreciated.
>
>
>
> David Morris
>
>
> --
>
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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Stus-List Prop strut 35-3 question

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Does anyone know how far aft of the propeller strut  the strut recess
extends? I need to refair the strut but have a crack extending 1 1/2 inches
aft of the strut. I am not sure if it is fairing or hull, and don't want to
take out too much material.
Thanks.

David Swensen
Freya, 35 MK3
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Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint
them? They look great.

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam.  Perfect replacement fit.
> No problem.  Highly recommend.  I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the
> spreaders.  Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright!
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light.  The existing Aqua
>> Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some
>> point and the deck light didn't work.  So, Staying away from Aqua Signal.
>>
>> I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the
>> way up to well over $500.  I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at
>> about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450.
>>
>> I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal
>> Mate.   It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be
>> well made.  Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well
>> made.  There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal.
>>
>> I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Danny
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Digest emails

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am receiving.

On Fri, Feb 12, 2021 at 9:19 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> At least some.  Volume seems to be down, got 3 today, about 15 yesterday.
>
>
> On 2021-02-12 10:16 a.m., Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Just checking – is anybody receiving digest emails with or without any
> problems.
>
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_979577422912833969_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Don't forget to tighten the keel bolts to the proper torque. You  can find
the specs on the cncphotoalbum site.

David Swensen
Freya 35 MKII
Beverly, MA

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 10:21 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Juliano,
>
> that's not too bad.  Many boats get similar cracks. They occur where the
> keel is joined to the hull.  You definitely want to clean it up and fill in
> the divots.  You'll get many responses on this topic so I'll let others
> chime in.
>
> Bob
>
> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Wow. You guys are awesome. Great info. Dave S, Your blog will be my bible
over the next couple of months.
I get the impression I should rebed the keel hull joint before addressing
the mast step cavity.  But I should drill into that cavity to accelerate
the draining/ drying first? Each time I raise the hull by giving the all
the jackstands a few quarter turns, that front bolt drains more water.

Thanks again to all! And thank you Stu for the list. I will make another
purchase/ donation soon. This list is invaluable.
David
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Stus-List Freya Keel work 35-3

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Fellow listers,
I have moved Freya to my backyard and started work on the keel hull joint.
She has on the hard for about 4 weeks. I opened up thekeel hull joint and
have raised the hull a few inches.   The forward bolt is still draining (
and it smells?).
The most aft bolt is the one that was leaking enough to set off my bilge
pump every 4 minutes. The inside of the hull was compressed under the
washers on this bolt. I think this will need to be ground out and filled
I have added a link to some pictures.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uoZHWJbR2jH8Wb6F6

My questions:

I cannot lift the hull entirely off of the keel. Any suggestions on how to
repair the compressed area without epoxy bonding to the  bolt?  I was
planning on a 1/2 inch G10 backing plate before putting  the washers on.

It looks like I will need to excavate the space under the mast step. It
feels and sounds solid, but apparently there is water inside, because it is
still draining.  What is the best material to fill this space?

Two of the middle bolts had aluminum wedges under the washers because of
the angle of the keel sump. One was corroded to dust. There was not much
left of the other. Can I use G10 to replace these, or should I have them
fabricated from stainless steel?.

One of the pictures shows the placement of the jackstands. I am open to
input on their placement. Is it sufficient to hold the hull for an extended
time?

Thanks for any input.

David Swensen
Freya   35 MK 3
On the Hard in Beverly, MA
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK3 lifting hull off keel

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Thank you, Doug.
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Stus-List 35 MK3 lifting hull off keel

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I purchased the owners manual, which has a diagram of the keel hull joint.
The diagram shows the keel bolts to be at an angle and not vertical. This
would make it tricky to raise the hull off the keel.
The bolts appear to be vertical when looking at them in the cabin. Can
anyone who has lifted the hull from the keel please comment on the angle of
the bolts?
Thanks.
David Swensen
S/v Freya
35 MK3
Salem, MA
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Re: Stus-List Stringer and Keel repair 35 MK III

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

That is quite a process. The yard suggested about 20k for that extent of a
repair. From what the surveyor sounded out, it seems to be a much smaller
sectionof the grid.

So to restore as much structural integrity, Iwill have raise the hull off
the keel by a few inches on jackstands, replace/ restore the stringers, and
then rebed and glass in the keel.

This I can do in my back yard. I think a lift would be necessary to address
any possible cracks in the fiberglass where the keel bolt holes are drilled
through.

The yard also suggested just rebedding shimming, and glassing the keel hull
joint a as a less expensive option, and seeing how long it lasts. I am
leaning toward addressing the stringers for a longer term solution. Whereas
I would be doing most of t he work, I am glad to have this list and all the
knowledge you guys and gals have.

David
S/v Freya
35 MK lII
Salem, MA

On Fri, Jul 24, 2020, 12:00 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Stringer and keel repair 35 MK III (CHARLES SCHEAFFER)
>2. Re:  Folding deck chairs (Marek Dziedzic)
>3. Re:  Folding deck chairs (Matthew)
>4. Re:  Folding deck chairs (Dennis C.)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 11:02:26 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stringer and keel repair 35 MK III
> That repair job cost more than three times the value of the boat.   Where
> are the keel bolts?   Awlgrip in the bilge?   Ch-ching $$$
>
> CS
>
> On 07/24/2020 8:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Coincidentally, I was just perusing a site yesterday that touched on this
> – a repair yard on the Hudson.
>
>
>
> http://marinestructuralsolutions.com/?page=jobs
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Swensen via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 23, 2020 7:52 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David Swensen
> *Subject:* Stus-List Stringer and keel repair 35 MK III
>
>
> Unfortunately, I had to haul Feya because of a leaking at the most aft
> keel bolt. The surveyor at the yard has determined that the boat was
> grounded at one time and there is at least one stringer that has
> separated from the hull. ( I wish the surveyor for the purchase found
> this). When the hull is sounded in that area, it sounds like there
> are marbles inside. The plan is to repair the stringer and rebed and glass
> in the keel. I will be able to bring the boat to my backyard and do it on
> my time. I will have the yard rebed because they will drop the keel and
> eval the condition of the bottom of the keel stub, and repair if necessary.
> They will also place shims to decrease play at the joint.
>
>
> My question is, should the stringer be repaired before or after the keel
> hull joint?
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
> David Swensen
>
> Freya
>
> C 35 MK III
>
> Salem, MA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2020 15:19:34 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding deck chairs
>
> We have an older version of the WM low-back seat (it is a bit higher, I
> think, than what WM sells now, and it does not have the opening at the
> hinge). We use it all the time. WM used to have a longer back version, as
> well.
>
>
>
> It supports your back quite well and it can be used flat, as a cockpit
> cushion.
>
>
>
> We have cockpit cushions, but usually, we just use these folding seats
> instead.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> *Sent:* 24 July, 2020 10:37
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Folding deck chairs
>
>
>
> Da

Stus-List Stringer and keel repair 35 MK III

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, I had to haul Feya because of a leaking at the most aft keel
bolt. The surveyor at the yard has determined that the boat was grounded at
one time and there is at least one stringer that has separated from the
hull. ( I wish the surveyor for the purchase found this). When the hull is
sounded in that area, it sounds like there are marbles inside. The plan is
to repair the stringer and rebed and glass in the keel. I will be able to
bring the boat to my backyard and do it on my time. I will have the yard
rebed because they will drop the keel and eval the condition of the bottom
of the keel stub, and repair if necessary. They will also place shims to
decrease play at the joint.

My question is, should the stringer be repaired before or after the keel
hull joint?

Thanks in advance.

David Swensen
Freya
C 35 MK III
Salem, MA
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Wow. Thanks for the pic. I didn't realize it would be bedded that deeply.
It is amazing how water will find a way.
I was able to tighten and use WaterWeld, as suggested, but unfortunately,
the strut was not the major contributing factor to the water intrusion. The
aft keel bolt is leaking. It is curious as to why there are 10
stainless washers on that bolt. PO said she had the keel rebed 5 years ago,
and that is what they did. Maybe they tightened it too much, and sheared it
from the lead keel? I am having it hauled this coming week to have a pro
take a look. It may be beyond my pay grade at this point.

Happy 4th!
David Swensen
Freya 35 MK3

From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2020 11:08:37 -0700
Subject:

This may be helpful, it shows how the strut is bedded right into the hull.
It took several hours to carefully chip away all the fairing bog. Once it
was unearthed, it came off cleanly.

https://i.imgur.com/25d8P0v.jpg

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Thank you, Graham and Dennis. I tried tightening the bolts to no avail. I
will give the epoxy a try. Any difference between water weld and Marine
tech underwater epoxy?
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Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

My new to me 1985 35 MKIII was launched a week and a half ago. On the trip
from Newport RI to Salem, MA last weekend, the bilge pump was getting a
periodic workout. The water pump was leaking like a sieve, so as soon as I
could I replaced the pump ( seals to bearings was toast so beyond rebuild).
I thought my bilge pump could rest. Not so. It is still going off every 5
-6 minutes, just for a quick burst, removing maybe a cup of water. After a
sleepless night last night, I paddled out to the boat this morning and
traced the leak to behind the propeller shaft log. There are 4 bolts that I
could see after contorting myself behind the fuel tank. I assume they are
mounting bolts for the strut. These bolts were wet and showed some
corrosion,and were the apparent source of the stream of water legging under
the engine and eventually to the bilge. The PO claimed the boat was bone
dry (Not so said the boat yard in RI). The surveyor did not pick up on
anything in this area. The boat had been on the hard for 2 years.
I have a feeling this may be a short season and I will likely need to haul
the boat to repair.  Has anyone had this problem?
 Engine mounts are in need of replacement, too. Lots of shaking under 1800
rpm. This is probably a contributing factor?
Yes, I have a solar panel to try to keep the battery charged for the bilge
pump.
Thanks.
David Swensen
Freya
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Alan,
Mine is hull # 198
David
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Chuck and Graham,
Thanks for your reply.I do have a inner headstay which attaches between the
mast and the forward hatch.  I defiinitely have the runners, which are made
of rope. High tensile I hope. I read up on them last night. There is no
blocking system set up on the boat for the runners. I have read where some
people attach to the toe rail all the way back near the stearn. My boat has
large padeyes on each side of the deck about mid cabin. I assume this is
where the runners would attach. I will learn how to ajust these as I go.

The Isomat mast is pretty bendy. From the look of it, I am not t sure I
would feel good about climbing up there myself (230 lb.), which is a shame
becaue my mastead light isn't working. I bought the boat with the mast
stepped already. Hoping to wait til next fall to take it down. Surveyor
thought the rod rigging looked good.

Thanks.
David

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020 at 9:51 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Hi David,
> My boat has both runners and checkstays but I have a bendy rig on a C
> 34R.
> Not sure my experience applies to your boat.
>
> Saildata shows the 35 MkIII without runners.
> https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-35-3
>
> Do you possibly have an inner headstay, (Solent) and the running backstays
> are meant to support that?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
>
> On June 7, 2020 at 8:01 PM David Swensen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I am ticking away at the list of to-dos in order to get Freya off of the
> hard and in the water. Thoughts have gone to actually sailing her and not
> just all the things that need to be done to a boat that was left on the
> hard and forgotten for a few years.
> In looking at the rigging today, I was reminded that Freya has a set of
> running backstays. The previous owners raced her. I haven't sailed with
> running backstays since our old family Narrasketuck on the Great South Bay.
> Does anyone use these? If so, do you have a picture of how they are set up
> on the deck? Can I safely sail without them?
> Thanks for any input.
> David Swensen
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am ticking away at the list of to-dos in order to get Freya off of the
hard and in the water. Thoughts have gone to actually sailing her and not
just all the things that need to be done to a boat that was left on the
hard and forgotten for a few years.
In looking at the rigging today, I was reminded that Freya has a set of
running backstays. The previous owners raced her. I haven't sailed with
running backstays since our old family Narrasketuck on the Great South Bay.
Does anyone use these? If so, do you have a picture of how they are set up
on the deck? Can I safely sail without them?
Thanks for any input.
David Swensen
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Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKiii

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I just purchased two new windowsfrom Tony at Hatchmasters. I believe it was
just under $800. My wife and I have put in 10 hours trying to remove old
adhesive. I still have a way to go, and then to repair the multiple chips
that came out with the adhesive. I plan on using the 3M tape that was
discussed a while ago. Any secrets to removing the old dried adhesive. I
have been mildly successful with triangular grinding blade on my Fein.
Still can't get it all. Open to suggestions.
David Swensen
Freya
1985 35 MKIII
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Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Thanks, Chuck and Alan. I had not planned on fully dropping the keel this
year. The boat is currently in Jamestown RI. I will be sailing her up to
Beverly, MA after she is launched. The mast is currently up,and I have been
quoted 500 each way to unstep and step. I was hoping to hold off until next
year to unstep. This year,  I was planning on just grinding out the joint
(which I have already done) tightening the bolts with new plates/washers,
and fairing the joint with GFlex and fairing filler (303?). There is
currently 4200 or something similar in the keel hull joint. I am planning
to drop the mast next fall, and then fully assessing/addressing the mast
step. My surveyor thought the mast step was in good condition, although the
mast was up when surveyed.  The boat, based on what I could tell by the C
plate in the back of the cockpit, was built in Niagara on the Lake. From
what I have read elsewhere, the mast steps from that facility were more
solidly than those built in RI. Should I also glass the joint and then
re-grind in the fall? Other comments? Safety issues?
Does anyone have the washer sizes?
Thanks.
Best,
David Swensen
Freya
1985 35 MK III
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Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of addressing
the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are not stainless and
I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get in to the boat yard for
a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of those
plates so that I could have them manufactured ahead of time.
 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III
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