Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Brian

Furler is attached to forestay.  Yard removes forestay from mast so is well 
supported.  I always store with mast down so can inspect mast and rigging.  My 
practice is to remove the furler after mast is down and reinstall prior to 
hoisting mast.  Ensures do not get corrosion on screws.  Much easier to do when 
on the hard.  Be sure to have correct size screwdriver blade.  Those little 
screws are not readily available so don’t want to lose or mess them up

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2021 8:44 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Brian Morrison
Subject: Stus-List Haul Out Question

 

Hello CnCers, 

 

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses. 

 

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison

1979 C 34

Rekofa

Fells Point, MD





On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:

 

Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.

 

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

 

The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based paint on
stainless and bronze running gear;

 

 

John and Maryann (dec'd 7/18/2021)

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

 

I use Petit prop paint with good results 

 

Neil Andersen

1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD 21661

  _  

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dean McNeill
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again 

 

First full season for me with my C 34 and I used Interlux Micron CSC, as
that's what the previous owner 'thought' was on it when I bought it. A good
friend has also used it on his Tartan 3700 for years with good results. 

 

I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s) and it has
worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest Arm in Halifax NS and
it was surprisingly super clean when it came out at end of season. a little
green scum in places but that's it! Stainless prop shaft was caked with
barnacles and growth, so I'm guessing bottom paint worked great where it was
applied!

 

Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding prop) with
bottom paint?

 

Dean

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Freshwater pump and hose

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Well the 40 year old OEM freshwater pump gave up the ghost.  Actually the
pressure switch.  It still pumps fine but without the switch to shut it off
it trips the breaker.

Pump is a PAR  / ITT JABSCO 36970-1000, 2.8 GPM.  Has been out of production
for years.  Some internet search show a switch  37121-0010 is supposedly
available on flea bay for about $60 plus shipping.  Supposedly OEM part that
has been sitting on the shelf for years.  A brand new pump assembly is less
than $150.  Given the age of the current pump, a new one seems to make
sense.  That gets us into the tubing which is Qest, is also OEM and there is
a small leak that so far has eluded discovery.  The new pumps do not provide
fitting compatible with Qest.

 

One of my options would be to replace the tubing especially with the new
plastic tubing now available.  Any thoughts on which system works best?

 

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: bottom wash

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Another factor is hazardous waste.  Along with the cleaning, some paint does 
slough off.  Most yards have a specific area to clean bottom with a collection 
system.  They also prohibit cleaning of bottom anywhere else

 

 

John

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 4:54 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List Re: bottom wash

 

Think about eating a bowl of oatmeal, leave the bowl on the counter  for a 
couple weeks, vs put it in the sink with water, and clean a few hours later.

So yeah, You want to get to this muy pronto.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: G Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2021 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: G Gao
Subject: Stus-List bottom wash

 

Hi,

 

Again a simple question that I have for experienced sailors.

 

In the past I have had the marina to "bottom wash" my boat when they do the 
haul out. This year I wanted to do it myself (want to save myself a few bucks), 
however this is not going to be at the time of haul out, but a couple weeks 
later. Is the two weeks delay a problem?

 

Thank you in advance.

 

Bo




 

-- 

1974 C 35 MK2

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We have a local agent who focuses on insuring older boats.  5 years ago he 
placed me with New Hampshire which is part of AIG.  Require survey every 5 
years.  Does have mature vessel provision which precludes coverage for fuel 
leaks and propulsion system.  Not an issue for me as recently replaced tank and 
fuel lines.  Does pay for loss caused by these items.  Pays $10/ft for 
emergency haul out for named storm.  Coverage ME to NC.  Winter haul out.  
Premium $474 for coverage

$23K  hull value (based on survey) (2% deductable)

$300Kindemnity

$1K towing

$2.5K personal items

$300Kuninsured boater

$997Kfuel spill liability

 

Pays to shop around

 

 

John 

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our Wednesday night series uses PHRF of Long Island sound but is also using ORC 
on a test basis for a limited number of boats.  Biggest issue is getting enough 
similar boats to enter so there can in fact be a competitive class

 

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 34 bow pulpit

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just checking if anyone might have a lead on bow pulpit for 1982 34.  Top and 
middle rungs.  Mine had an intimate encounter with Mr Piling and is probably 
fixable but just checking my options

 

TIA

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Steering cable

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

 

All good comments here.  If your set up similar to mine, the hardest part is 
crawling all the way aft under the cockpit floor to undo old cables from 
quadrant and then reattaching and adjusting the new.  The cables enter the 
quadrant on each side then take a hard turn into the rear of the quadrant 
crossing the center line.  That turn is frequently a cable failure point.  Mine 
had several broken strands at that point.  I did mine several years ago as part 
of dropping the rudder to remedy some very old post grease that had hardened 
making steering very difficult and to rebuild rudder due to water intrusion.  
All DIY.  Not that difficult in concept but the execution is well another story.

 

 

John and Maryann (in memorium)

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Dennis

 

So glad you and family are OK.  Family in Florida had similar issue when 
hurricane Mathew breached the barrier dune and whole area was flooded for weeks 
with salt water that was not able to drain.  Killed all the trees and 
vegetation.  Massive effort to rebuild house as you are doing.  My sympathies 
to you

 

 

John

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2021 4:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Stus-List Re: Checking the list

 

Dennis, As with others, glad you were not harmed; I know what a disappointment 
it is to get flooded out; we get it here on the Ohio River; in 2018 we were 
totally inundated and had to rebuilt or replace everything but the walls..; 
take care and know that soon you will be on board with the wind in your sails...
!!!

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37; Ohio River, mile 584.4;

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2021 9:49 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Checking the list

My sailing season ended the night of May 17 when we got 12 inches of localized 
rain in 2 hours.  A short time later the Admiral, Lexie the cat crew and I were 
sitting on the bed watching stuff float through our bedroom in 18 inches of 
water.  A few days later after loading two roll off dumpsters full of saturated 
carpet and pad, drywall, insulation, furniture, appliances and a lot of 
memories, we had a mostly empty house with some patio furniture and a bed.  A 
few weeks, two large commercial dehumidifiers, lots of fans, portable heaters 
and a good moisture meter and we had a dry house.  

 

We've installed new drywall, textured it, painted it and replaced all the door 
trims, baseboards, etc. that were removed during the drying process.  Waiting 
on flooring now.

 

Bottom line, if you think refurbishing/rebuilding a boat is work, try restoring 
a flooded house while you're still living in it.  I haven't seen Touche' in 
weeks.

 

--

Dennis C. 

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: From Richard 30/40+

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Richard

 

Would question using aluminum for a holding tank.  Corrosion and all that.
Know tank fabricators here on east coast but not on west so maybe someone
else can chime in?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: richard hosker via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 7:39 PM
To: C Email List
Cc: richard hosker
Subject: Stus-List From Richard 30/40+

 

Good Day 

 

I am asking for help

Has anyone removed replaced a holding tank from a C@C 37+ located underneath
and behind the sink in the head.

 

I removed mine it was an aluminum tank very rusty and starting to leak.

This was not fun to do But Len a 37+ owner (no longer) helped me with what
to do

 

I have spoken with Peter at Holland Marine but his tanks are 21" wide and
mine is 16" wide with a slope to fit the shape of the hull.

 

Does anyone know or have a source for a replacement tank to go back in its
original space.

 

I have spoken with a few owners who have located a tank in the port side
salon bunk but I want to keep the original location

 

Thanks in advance 

 

Richard Hosker

Malo 37+ 1989 no 9 San Diego ca.

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows
10

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C 34]

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

 

Did and do precisely the same for our 1982 34.  We dropped rudder about 10
years ago so could properly clean and regrease the tube.  Also need to
periodically lube and grease all components of the steering pedestal.  The
shaft bearings are specified to use a Teflon grease. 30W oil for chain and
idler pulleys.  Coat of grease on wire.  

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2021 7:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman
Subject: Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder?
[C 34]

 

Hi Andrew,

 

I have a 1981 C so not certain if we have the same rudder shaft
arrangement, but I'll explain what I have and you can have a look at yours.
A friend has a 1981 C and his setup is the same.

 

Crawl back below the cockpit to the rudder shaft and look for a grease cup
on the rudder shaft housing.  The cup is about midway up the shaft housing
facing forward.  It looks like a 1" diameter metal, screwed on cap about an
inch tall (tall measuring horizontal).  Get yourself some good, waterproof,
grease (the local marina recommended "Green Grease" but was out.  I stopped
at WM and got some "Corrosion Block, Waterproof Grease".  It's blue.  Dig
out whatever old grease you can from the grease cup and refill with fresh
grease.  Screw the grease cup all the way back on.  Then repeat -- remove
the grease cup, fill with fresh grease (no need to clean out because there
will be a small amount of fresh grease from the previous cycle).  Repeat.
Eventually you will see the old grease comming out the top of the rudder
shaft housing.  If the boat is in the water, you can see the top of the
rudder and watch for fresh grease coming out.  I did this about 20 times
before much old grease started to move -- really old, brown, hard grease.

 

The PO of my boat did not understand that the fill, screw on, remove, fill,
screw on .. had to be repeated many times.  He filled the cup once,
turned it on, and thought that was it!  PO used to brag how balanced the
boat was as he let go of the wheel and the boat continued on -- fact was the
steering was so stiff it took a lot to move the rudder.  Now I can steer
with one finger after putting nearly an entire tube of grease in.

 

You will find that crawling back to access the grease cup isn't a picnic.
The C owner installed a Zerc fitting right on the grease cup and ran a
3ft hose forward.  I did the same.  Now we can attach a grease gun to the
easily accessible hose and lube the rudder shaft.  Once a year ought to do
it.  Good luck!

 

Jeff Laman

1981 C "Harmony"

Ludington, MI

 

  _  

From: Andrew Means via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2021 6:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Andrew Means 
Subject: Stus-List Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C
34] 

 

Hey all -  

 

When we bought our 1978 C 34 it had a nice smooth rudder action via our
wheel helm. Over the past two years it's gradually stiffened and I think we
need some amount of lubrication, but I'm not really sure where to start to
diagnose the issue and come up with a plan to fix it. Anybody familiar with
the steering setup on the 34?

 

Andrew

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance for Older Boats

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

New Hampshire Insurance (part of AIG) for over 5 years.  No problem with
older boat.  Did require new survey this year.  $733 premium for $41K hull
value, $820 deductible, $410 tender, $300K indemnity, $1K towing, $2K
personal, $300K uninsured boater and $997 fuel spill.  Pay $10/ft for a
quick haul if hurricane hits.  There are some exclusions of coverage dealing
with mature equipment, latent defects and fuel tanks but I felt are
manageable.  Sold through independent agents.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: David Morris via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2021 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Subject: Stus-List Insurance for Older Boats

 

In the course of jumping through hoops imposed by our insurance carrier for
our 1975 C 30 MK1, I had an email from a senior VP with Gallagher
Skipper's Plan that says, in part: "In the today's market it is extremely
difficult to find insurers willing to write sailboats over 40 years old.
These boats have a high incidence of fires, rigging failures, pulled
chainplates, and rudder failures and are considered high risk. Five
insurance companies have stopped offering quotes for sailboats over 30 and
the few that will offer it are very picky." This, of course, is highly
concerning. Any recommendation for a carrier that is more favourably
inclined to cover an older boat would be most appreciated.

 

David Morris

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar engine and transmission

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Rob

 

Thanks but no interest.  Just know my mechanic used to have a rebuilt Kanzaki 
for a Yanmar 3GM in his warehouse so thought it might help if all was needed 
was a replacement tranny

 

All that said, this list is amazing

 

John Read

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2021 4:43 PM
To: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Re: Yanmar engine and transmission

 

John, 

Sorry wrong email

gearjmr@yahoo.com

Rob

On 2021-06-16 5:40 p.m., Robert Abbott wrote:

John,

Spoke with the mechanic who has the engine and transmissionhe said it was a 
coupling problem that he might be able to fix, nevertheless they are for sale 
if you are interested.

I didn't ask if I could broadcast his contact info on the C list so I give it 
to you only and you can contact him to discuss details if interested:

Evert Powell

Mobile  (902 )298-0192

Email gear...@yahoo.com

FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-06-15 3:53 p.m., John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Bob

 

Please advise engine model (3GM??) and transmission make and model and ratio – 
should be on a plate.  My mechanic may have a rebuilt Kanzaki available

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2021 9:52 AM
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

 

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 33,155%

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Jim

 

Tried attaching tack to deck and not the furler? - should fit if a tad short

 

John Read

 

From: jim aridas via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2021 12:07 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe; jim aridas
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 33,155%

 

Any 33 owners looking for a laminate 155%. Not bad shape, light to med air,
no patches. Thought it would fit my 34 picked it up a few years ago. Too
tall in the hoist.

Have pics if interested.

Make a good beer can racer.

Message me if interested.

Thinking $300 plus shipping would be fair.

Located central nj

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question??

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

 

Please advise engine model (3GM??) and transmission make and model and ratio – 
should be on a plate.  My mechanic may have a rebuilt Kanzaki available

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2021 9:52 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe; Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Question??

 

Joe,
Yes, he bought a new Yanmar engine and new transmission and had it 
installedhe got back in the water a few days ago.

The old Yanmar (3 cylinder with 200 engine hours and broken transmission) is 
sitting in a mechanic's garage and if anyone wants to buy it, they can talk to 
the mechanic (Evert Powell).

I have his phone # on my IPhone if anyone wants to talk to him.  One or both 
can be purchased but I have no idea what is the pricebut given the 
situation with the tranni, i think the engine could be had for a good price. As 
the owner said to me when I asked "who would want to buy an engine with no 
available transmission?"  And the owner lives three houses down the street from 
me so I can contact him any time.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-06-15 10:28 a.m., Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

Did the person with the Tartan  already get a new engine installed? If so, it 
seems like anyone wanting a Yanmar might give him a call 

Normally I would say it is nuts to not just fix the tranny, but given current 
COVID shortages of everything maybe the parts are not in stock in North 
America???

 

Joe

Coquina





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question??

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

What transmission model?  Should be a name plate on it.  Had my Kanzaki
transmission rebuilt in 2016 as was slipping.  Mechanic was in New Jersey
and provided great service at reasonable pricing.  Getting parts easy then
but entire transmissions were not available.  I want to say they went out of
production of my model but not sure.  Trick was the mechanic must be
experienced with these transmissions as it is easy to get parts mixed up.
Mine did the rebuilding for Yanmar's east coast distributor (Mack Boring)
before they got out of that business.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2021 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Question??

A club member has a 2012 Tartan 37 with a 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel I 
don't know the transmission typehe bought it in 2014 got a good 
deal then on pricethe engine now has 200 hours but just after he 
launched 6 weeks ago, his transmission failedmarine diesel 
contractors (3 of them) said transmission could not be repaired.so 
he needs a new transmission.

Wrong, he is informed by all 3 diesel mechanics and Yanmar, that there 
is not a transmission available to match his Yanmar engine. So guess 
what, he has to buy a new engine and transmission.

Has anyone ever heard of this where there is no transmission to fit a 
Yanmar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

In 2019 I used Laird Plastics to replace my main sliding hatch cover.  They are 
a national chain.  Light grey, 3/8 x 28 x 33.  In stock, cut to size, edges 
beveled, holes for re installing wood pieces, same day service – all for $245.  
I provided old hatch as pattern and picked up new as their local shop is ¾ hour 
away.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Dave S via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2021 7:21 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

 

Josh - Fwiw it seems crazy that you can’t get this locally - in the Toronto 
area there are several specialist industrial  suppliers who carry this material.

 

Example in baltowash

 

 

https://www.piedmontplastics.com/locations/baltimorewashington

 

Dave 33-2

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

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Stus-List Re: Deck hold -down?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Rod

 

Our 34 uses the same construction.  The tangs are to hold the deck and bulkhead 
together.  Mine were leaking a bit some 20 years ago so pulled them, rebedded 
with butyl so there was flex.  No leaks since

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Rod Fisk via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2021 7:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Fisk
Subject: Stus-List Deck hold -down?

 

Image removed by sender.




Image removed by sender.

Image removed by sender.



 

Image removed by sender.

I have a C 36-1. There are stainless strap assemblies bolted through the main 
bulkhead  port and starboard. These are welded to stainless pads bolted through 
the deck. I have removed the mounting bolts and the holes in the bulkhead are 
not elongated yet there is a gap of about 5/16" under the plate on the deck 
above. What is this for? I am guessing a deck hold--down, yet the deck appears 
to be firmly in contact with the bulkhead below. Has anyone else seen this? 
What have you done about it?

 

Thanks

 

Rod Fisk

C 36 Corsair

Oshkosh, WI

 

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Stus-List Re: Leaking rudder shaft

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Rain water coming down – should have been more explicit.  No issue of sea water 
coming up

John

 

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2021 3:27 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Leaking rudder shaft

 

Do you mean sea water coming up or rainwater coming down???

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2021 3:01 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Leaking rudder shaft

 

Any thoughts on how to stop the leak where the rudder shaft comes through the 
cockpit floor on a 34?  The interface of delrin washers under the nut leak if 
heavy rain.  Am thinking of some sort of cover over the nut.  Leak drips onto 
quadrant under floor then into bilge.

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Leaking rudder shaft

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Any thoughts on how to stop the leak where the rudder shaft comes through the 
cockpit floor on a 34?  The interface of delrin washers under the nut leak if 
heavy rain.  Am thinking of some sort of cover over the nut.  Leak drips onto 
quadrant under floor then into bilge.

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hate to say it, but looks to me like a classic case of a water logged rudder 
freezing which expands the water forcing the weak point (seam) to crack open.  
Fix is to drop the rudder, cut out one side, clean and dry it out, ensure 
rudder stock is sound, rebuild (foam and new glass skin), seal the stock where 
it enters the rudder, reinstall, check the entire steering system while you are 
at it – go sailing.  Yes you can do it yourself question  is do you want to and 
do you have the expertise and tools??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

From: G Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 5:14 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: G Gao
Subject: Stus-List rudder seam

 

Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise from 
experienced sailors, as always...

 

Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had the 
seam showing in this picture:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing

 

Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?

 

thank you in advance.

 

Bo




 

-- 

1974 C 35 MK2

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Stus-List Re: Stu's Zoom meeting

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Me too

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Matthew via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 1:22 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: 'CHARLES SCHEAFFER'; Matthew
Subject: Stus-List Re: Stu's Zoom meeting

 

Me, too.  It was the Admiral's birthday.

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2021 1:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; David Risch

Subject: Stus-List Re: Stu's Zoom meeting

 

Ugh.  Missed it.  Was it recorded?

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

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Stus-List Re: help with shift cable issue

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Bo

 

What model pedestal and engine and tranny?  If your tranny is a cone design, it 
is critical to get full throw at the tranny shift lever or there will be 
slippage

 

The outer sheath is (should be) clamped on both ends so does not move. I see a 
hole in your pedestal tube.  Is that for a set screw to hold a bracket??

 

At the pedestal, can your shifter hit the pedestal body?  If so there may be a 
problem as insufficient throw at the tranny.  On mine, there is a double spring 
at the tranny so tranny is fully engaged with a bit of spring compression 
before shifter hits body both fwd and rev.  Under deck, verify sheath does not 
move when shifting.  If it does your pedestal clamping is suspect.

 

At the tranny, verify the cable sheath is secure and does not move.  Verify the 
inner cable is correctly attached to the tranny lever so the lever goes its 
full travel in fwd and rev. On ours, the lever is simply clamped onto a rod 
that goes into the tranny and can slip.  On mine (Kanzaki on a Yanmar engine) 
there are two attachment holes on the lever.  The cable is attached to the 
inner one so there is sufficient throw of the cable.

 

Hope this helps

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: General Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2021 1:37 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List help with shift cable issue

 

I am continuing with my work on the shift cable issue. To summarize, the shift 
cable suddenly could not shift the gearbox properly. Looking at the gearbox 
side, the cable conduit ends may have moved and caused the issue. I've verified 
the cable at the engine end did not change

 

I took a couple of pictures at the control end of things:

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXEiGVBoIcaEGtVxav6felcClgAVns2b/view?usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Lji9SQ1EPGDig2bngtrdwHd4I0moIBa/view?usp=sharing

 

I am thinking something got loose at the pedestal side, the conduit end bracket 
might got loose; however I could not find the screw that sets the distance of 
the conduit end from the control lever.

 

Am I missing something?

 

Regards,

 

Bo

 

 

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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Coal tar bottom paint removal?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I did this project when first purchased our 34 22 years ago.  What you describe 
sure sounds like VC tar to me.  PO used VC 17 paint (fresh water) with VC Tar 
as barrier coat that had eroded in many areas.  Used chemical stripper very 
sensitive to heat and humidity and very toxic.  Apply stripper, put on paper 
plastic sheeting so does not dry, let stand for X time and strip off.  Found a 
heavy plastic scraper worked well to remove.  Must wear protective clothing or 
will get chemical burns on skin and respirator for toxic fumes.  Bear of a job 
but got to clean gel coat with minimal sanding / fairing required.  6 coats 
epoxy barrier coat and still going strong.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Dodged a bullet.

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Someone is watching out for you

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 12:44 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Re: Dodged a bullet.

 

Holy crap!  Glad you weren’t affected!

 

Cheers,

Randy





On Mar 29, 2021, at 7:55 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

3 slips from ours.  

 

https://www.king5.com/article/tech/science/environment/cleanup-underway-at-vashon-yacht-club-where-boats-caught-fire-sank/281-40d71613-2311-4f72-a6ed-1c538c4514b5

 

Whew!

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours has natural teak and only been oiled.  Use old English lemon oil buy at 
local grocery / hardware store.  Wipe on, let sit for a bit and wipe off.  Once 
a year in early spring before cover comes off.  Nice project and looks great!!

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: turnbuckle lube

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Rigging is OEM.  Have owned boat 22 years.  Have used waterproof grease on 
turnbuckle threads every year.  Wipe off excess after rig is tuned.  Has worked 
well.  We remove mast every winter so can inspect everything.  Last fall noted 
3 turnbuckles had seized the rod end.  PB blaster easily fixed 2.  3rd required 
some more time and gentle heat.  Held rod with vice grips and worked turnbuckle 
loose.  No marks on rod.  All is well

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 11:52 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List turnbuckle lube

 

Hey Joel asked a good question. 

  

What's the best lubricant for turnbuckles? 

  

  

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Emails to spam

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have over 100 list emails in my gmail spam folder.  Discovered this on one

 

Why is this message in spam? 

It is in violation of Google's recommended email sender guideline

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Messages going to spam

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I also use gmail.  Just checked and a whole bunch of list postings in the spam 
folder.  For those that get through, I access through Outlook.  Outlook rule to 
sent all list postings to separate folder – no issues there but obviously an 
issue with gmail.  

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Precision Sails

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI All

Am in market for a spinnaker and came across Precision Sails of Sydney BC in
Canada.  I measure, they fabricate and ship no taxes or duties.  Offer
different shapes for differing conditions.  Pricing is attractive - approx 2
boat bucks

www.precisionsailloft.com

 

Any comments or experience?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Will Defender have its annual sale?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Stay tuned as to the covid restrictions of participating in person.  The sale 
is also available on line

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 34 re-power HP

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our OEM Yanmar is 3GM30 now 39 years old.  24 HP.  35 amp alternator.  Kanzaki 
tranny with 2.61 reduction swinging martec 2 blade folding prop.  Runs like a 
champ, smooth and quiet.  Power is just right and enough for headwinds and seas 
 There are several on ebay

 

If changing engine especially the brand be sure to account for changes to 
engine beds so it properly aligns as well as electric cables, throttle and 
shift cables, exhaust muffler and piping etc etc etc

 

Best of luck

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken rod rigging attachment for babystay deck at keel - 37/40+

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our 34 halyards are attached to the casting on the deck surrounding the mast.  
Inside, the casting has two stainless tangs that attach to the mast which 
serves two purposes:   1) offset the upward pull of the halyards and 2) prevent 
the deck from springing upward as the mast shrouds are tightened and try to 
decrease the beam of the boat.

 

As for the rod holding the baby stay I seem to recall a prior similar issue on 
this list.  The fitting was similar to a lag bolt and screwed into the 
fiberglass and into the keel.  Remember the only thing preventing the mast from 
inverting (which is a disaster) or pumping (which impacts sail shape)  is the 
baby stay.  Some do not use it but I believe it to be an essential part of the 
mast structure taking the place of forward and aft lower shrouds.  Just look up 
your mast without a baby stay when going to windward in any sort of seaway.

 

My 2 cents American

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

Suggest you contact the Mudheads and commodores of area clubs.  Mudheads  have 
conducted the Wednesday night series very successfully for years.  They also 
have several certified PRO members.  They also contract out as race committee 
for some area clubs for their weekend regattas.  Greg Gilmartin is another 
great source.  He is PRO for Off Soundings.  Best of luck

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2021 9:59 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

 

I noticed looking at Bill’s link about his spinnaker that his club has three 
racing fleets: Spinnaker, Family JAM and Jib & Main.  I don’t know what those 
represent, but am curious.

I am in charge of racing for our club this year (for the first time) and one of 
the things I am looking into is whether we can increase participation in racing 
by our members.  One idea I am exploring is having a “green fleet” for those 
new to raicng to get them invoved in a low stress format (primarily start 
timing when you get to the line).  We would also have a pre and post race 
skippers meeting/discussion to talk about the race, rules, etc..

This group seems like a good place to get ideas as to what other clubs do in 
terms of racing fleets and encouraging participation from those who are not 
traditionally participating.  Has anything in particular worked well for your 
club?  Thanks- Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Maintenance that makes the boat work easier

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info.  Always helps to remember the basics.  On a related note, 
maintenance of winches is also a big help in having things work correctly.  I 
do this annually – remove the drum, oil the pawls and ensure adequate grease on 
the bearings and gear interfaces.  My main genoa winches are size 32 so the 
entire assembly is removable from its base.  Take it home for a winter project 
of complete disassembly, cleaning and lubrication every 2-3 years.

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2021 12:43 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List Maintenance that makes the boat work easier

 

I'd like to share something most of you know but some may not and it's 
something I learned the hard way.  Before hoisting sails for the first time 
this season, check that all your blocks and deck organizer sheaves turn 
properly and the sail tracks are clean.   Use a finger to check that the sheave 
turns freely in each block.  Things work easier if everything actually works, 
and if you do this the sails will thank you. 

  

Earlier I reported that I raise the mainsail on my 36 ft saiboat by hand.  Well 
I couldn't do that when I first got my boat and needed to use a winch on 
halyards.  My sailing friends told me that was normal and winches were always 
necessary to hoist such large  sails.  My mainsail weighs only 55 to 60 pounds, 
so I thought they might be wrong.  Later, I spent some time checking all of the 
mast base halyard blocks and freeing a few frozen sheaves in the deck 
organizer, I found I could raise the mainsail by hand very easily.  These 
sheaves are deceptive when frozen and allow a halyard to pass unimpeded 
initially when there is no load, but once the strain comes on, if they are 
frozen, the halyard becomes bar taught and the job requires a winch.  I also 
learned from reading the winch catalog that the largest loads; the genoa and 
main halyards work best if reeved along the most direct path to the right side 
of a winch drum.  So now I pick the clutch directly in line with the right side 
of the Starboard winch drum for my main halyard.  All my winch drums turn 
clockwise.  My genoa halyard is reeved through the clutch directly in line with 
the right side of the Port winch drum.   I run the spinnaker halyards through 
the outermost clutches and all the other lines have lower loads so can be run 
as you like.  And I label the clutches. 

  

I also hoist the Genoa by hand onto the furler and because I clean the foil 
grooves and spray the sail tabbing with MackLube, it goes up pretty easily.  
The lube also allows easy adjustment of the halyard tension when shaping the 
sail while sailing.  I usually pick a lightwind day and extend the genoa 
halyard so I can wrap the tail round the winch drum and lead it to the bow 
where I feed the sail into the groove as I pull the halyard.  I can clear any 
snags as they develop and the sail goes up happy and quick. 

  

So clean and lube your winches and the clutches too. 

Mark your halyards so you can repeat proper settings. 

These things make operating the boat so much easier. 

  

Sorry for the long rant. 

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md 

  

  

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom painting question

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Recently saw an ad for a new Petit paint “Odyssey Triton”.  Contains, copper, 
econea and zinc.  Ablative multi year.  Pricey but supposedly the best thing 
since sliced bread.

No personal experience

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2021 9:32 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bottom painting question

 

Magic antifouling does not appear to be available for sale yet due to lack of 
EPA approval.  How did you get it?  Have you tried Magic Prop as well?  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT








On Jan 8, 2021, at 10:59 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

 

Me too it was first time taking off ablative paint 

It sucks but it looks nice 

I put magic anti fouling the application was easy, two people is better to get 
a smooth finish 

Sv Delos and sailing zatara tryed it they say it an amazing product and gained 
half a knot on boat speed 

For a 30 foot cost me 800$ USA 

On Fri, Jan 8, 2021 at 10:40 PM cenelson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Yes—at least some do. OTOH I did that once, took about 4+ 8 hr days with a 
sander above my head and all the protective breathing gear on.

 

Swore then that I would “...nevahh...”

Attempt that again. Same feeling after my first and last water skiing 
success—once was enough!!


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
 

On Friday, January 8, 2021, 8:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:

does your yard allow owners to sand their own bottoms?

 


  _  


From: cenelson via CnC-List 
Sent: January 8, 2021 9:26 PM
To: C List
Cc: cenelson
Subject: Stus-List Bottom painting question 

 

My 1995 C 36XL/Kcb is used mainly for local club racing with occasional 
forays to CRW. I think her PHRF of 120 is reasonable and at CRW she finished in 
the middle of her PHRF class in spinnaker racing boat for boat with a similarly 
rated J-30 whose rating was the same because of a penalty for an oversized 
pole. 

 

About 2 years ago, I had to strip the bottom to the gel coat since the bottom 
paint build-up was excessive. Two coats of barrier coat were applied and then 
Petite Black Widow was improperly sprayed on by my yard—they admitted they were 
unfamiliar with how much it needed diluted to be applied (afterward), when the 
barnacles showed up much sooner than expected, likely a result of too thin a 
layer of this paint.

 

I had them repaint the bottom with Petite Vivid, with which they were familiar, 
and they rolled it on with a short nap roller to avoid the extra expense of 
tenting, etc. for a spray paint application of the same paint—which they had 
done in the past.

 

I am contemplating going back to a smoother bottom and several local yards have 
agreed that the solution is to rough up the current hard ablative Petite Vivid, 
apply/roll 2 more coats of the same and then manually sand/burnish the bottom 
by sanding these coats smooth, basically sacrificing some of the just applied 
paint to ensure a smoother bottom.

 

I get it, especially since 2 independent yards proposed this, as more 
practical/less expensive than my initial thoughts of sanding the current paint 
down and then spraying several coats of Vivid.

 

This work by the yard will cost ~$4-5000.

 

My question for the list, especially the racers, is how do I maintain this 
sanded bottom when I must reapply another coat or 2 of bottom paint next year? 
Must I repeat the process (roll on 2 coats and sand smooth) for another $5000? 
If so, I am not sure if I should proceed. A ~$2000 per year bottom refresh is 
tolerable—a $5000 per year is NOT.

 

So how do the racing listers keep your boat bottom in ‘racing’ condition year 
to year?

 

Must I ‘bite the bullet’ at $5000 each year or is there an alternative that is 
less expensive and thus more reasonable? I will not do it myself—to much work 
not to mention the hazard of the paint dust/vapors/etc.

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36XL/kcb

Water Phantom ex



Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Joel Delamirande

Image removed by sender.

www.jdroofing.ca  

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: Tour the yacht America

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Speaking of the replica America I was  dock boy at the Mystic Seaport in the 
late 60’s when she came in to spend a few days.  The ship was just drop dead 
gorgeous.  I recall the Schaefer’s and crew as most hospitable.  As it turns 
out, while they were here the movie about the ship aired for the first time on 
network TV.  Now this was in the days of tube type TV’s – no cable or such.  
Rudi went out, purchased a very nice large for its day color TV, had an  
antenna installed on the mainmast and invited everyone in the marina staying 
overnight to come on board to watch the show under the stars.  Of course 
Schaefer beer was in abundance.  Just a wonderful experience

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2021 10:46 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Re: Tour the yacht America

 

In the late sixties, I visited East Boothbay Harbor where a replica of the 
yacht America was being built. It was commissioned by Rudi Schaefer of Schaefer 
Brewing company.  Any relation Charles?

 

Alan

 

 

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 6:43 PM CHRIS PRICE via CnC-List  
wrote:

Chuck, this may interest you, the mantle over our club's fireplace is made from 
one of the timbers of the America, salvaged after the shed collapsed in 
Annapolis. 

Chris Price 

Potapskut Sailing Association 

Black Hole Creek, MD 

Hey guys, 

An 

For a short tour of the original yacht that won the Americas Cup, check out 
this video. 

  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjs76uHEqeM 

  

  

Chuck 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

  Thanks - Stu 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4Kl6dt4Mz78C1tX-tL4IQOF_ERUYAisQ5VwlA5m6aWcwJSk0AIEH2iq6OAAkbGalhHE$
 

Thanks - Stu

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Stus-List Autohelm ST 3000 analog autopilot and 32" wheel

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

1)   Have complete autopilot unit.  Have never used for 22 years we have 
owned boat but PO represented worked well. Recent sale there was $178.  Wheel 
driver is mounted to 32” wheel with 1 inch hub sold separately

2)  32” stainless wheel with 1 inch keyed hub.  Recent flea bay sale is $450

 

Any interest before I post on flea  bay?  Please contact off line

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Removing a C 34 fuel tank

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Don

 

We replaced our tank with military grade aluminum custom made by Luther Welding 
in Bristol RI. http://www.lutherswelding.com/Old one was original to boat, 
was not leaking but did it due to its age (32 years) so it was only a matter of 
time.  Old tank came out of lazarette – very tight fit and required some 
persuasion of the fill neck.  I also could have removed the teak trim from the 
lazarette and hollowed out a small portion of the glass to fit the fill fitting 
if I was considering reusing it after inspection but I wasn’t so did not.   
Also had to reposition Sendur tank and exhaust elbow and throttle cable. Also 
replaced fill hose (very expensive).  New one fit right in as fill fitting is 
screwed in, not welded so total height was less.  Considered using a plastic 
tank but was strongly advised against due to fire hazard.  Very time consuming 
project and tight fit all around.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list and the 34 is a great boat.  FWIW we still have original
3GM and it works like a charm

 

I second the thought of checking the tube.  Exactly what happened on our
previous boat when we changed from gas to diesel.  My understanding is
screens on pickup tube were common if engine was gas.  Did your Yanmar
replace a gas engine?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2020 4:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea?

 

I'd also pull the fuel pick tube and see if there is a screen in the end of
it, if there is one remove it - it's likely picking up sediment and starving
the engine, dropping ir when the engine stops.

 

If it that or the filters I would either polish the fuel, and add a cleaner,
or remove it and have the tank cleaned. 

 

Paul

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dean McNeill via
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 2:19:50 PM
To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar cutting out at sea? 

 

Just brought my new-to-me C home. My 2009 Yanmar 3YM30 purred like a
kitten in most seas. But this was a 30 hour slog through hell. Decided to
motor-sail a bit in some heavy seas (20-25 kts), engine, at 2500-2800 rpm,
would suddenly lose revs then often quit. Could start up again in a few
moments, but would do it again in 5 minutes or so. Gave up on it until winds
died down and started it up no problem... worked flawlessly for a 2 hour
motor in calm waters after that. Boat was fully serviced in fall and on hard
until 2 weeks ago when I bought and launched it. Has a Racor filter/water
separator and inline fuel filter. I'm wondering if the exhaust being under
water during that point of sail would cause the issue or maybe I should just
change up filters, or was it probably sediment in tank being kicked up and
starving the engine? Thoughts?

Dean


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Re: Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3gm30

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just some thoughts based on our 3GM with Sender fresh water cooling

1)  It is not normal for any hose to be dry

2)  Check the fluid level in the Sendur heat exchanger.  Run engine without 
radiator cap until thermostat opens allowing full coolant flow.  Top off with 
anti freeze as needed.  This is the engine side of the system – not the water.  
Check to verify fluid is moving in exchanger. If system has been drained, there 
may be an air pocket somewhere that needs to be pushed out by fluid. Exchanger 
fluid level should be absolutely full when warm. There should be a plastic 
overflow / expansion tank connected to exchanger just under cap.  Should have 1 
– 2 inches of coolant.

3)   Are you getting water out the exhaust??  If so then water side of 
system is probably OK.  If not, common issue Is exhaust riser water passage 
gets blocked.  Fix is replace riser

 

Best of luck – the 3GM is a great engine

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Could not have said it any better

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List 1979 C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

 

David:

The two SS straps are your 'mast tangs'.they are very importantthey
keep your deck from lifting from the upward pull of halyards connected to
your mast collar.   They should be bolted to your mast just as you step your
mast before the rigging is tensioned.  If you attempt if after the rig is
tensioned, the holes in the tangs and mast may not line up.  Same thing with
any halyards, don't have any halyards tensioned pulling up the deck.  Since
your mast is keel stepped, you can safely back off all the rigging and try
to line the holes up. 

The v-berth SS rod with a turnbuckle is used in a similar way as your mast
tangs.to off set the upward pull of your babystay from where the
babystay connects to the deck.  I am of course now assuming you have a
babystay.  Same with the mast tangs, no tension on the babystay.  Tighten
the v-berth SS rod's turnbuclke until the rod feels tightdo not over
tension it as you will pull the deck down.

Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S. 

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Chandler

 

Welcome to the world of C and this list. We have owned our 82 34 foot for 21 
years and still has the original 3GM with Sendur fresh water cooling and Martec 
2 blade folding prop.  It is operating like new.  Starts right up, runs smooth, 
lots of power to offset wind and tides, economical at ¾ gal per hour, runs all 
day with nary a peep.  Have done what I consider normal maintenance over the 
years including new injectors, new exhaust elbow, service / rebuild pumps, 
annual changing of filters, religious use of biobar and diesel treatment, new 
mounts, clean out heat exchanger, regular change oil and filters.  Did rebuild 
the transmission as was slipping due to my error of not correctly attaching 
shift cable.  If you need this highly recommend a source that really knows 
Yanmars and Kanzaki transmissions – mine is in NJ.  Replaced cables, new 
alternator, new fuel tank (old one was fine but concerned of pin hole leaks).  
All in all would not change this great engine.  My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 9:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

 

Hi. Chandler, 

Welcome to the list. I own an 82- standard  37ft has original 3HM 

Very first day out engine overheated. New mixing elbow took care of that  
beyond that and a simple freshwater pump rebuilt runs great! Only issue I have 
is little vibration  so I  try to motor only out of channel and often sail in 
under headsail. I think it’s motor mounts as they look original ?? But beyond 
that I would not change engine or boat:) i love UMA dan can fix anything! 
Unfortunately I am not so savvy on all things boat if I she dies I will go Beta 
for sure !

 

 

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon

S/V Heartbeat

www.flirtingwithfire.com

 





On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Hi Chandler,

 

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges in 
terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this approach 
and would love to go that route at some point and get away from fossil fuel 
based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I have a fully 
functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C 34 and it does have advantages in terms of 
range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise and vibration and use of 
fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power while not great, this is a 
pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon footprint as I only typically go 
through about 20 gallons a year.

 

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on 
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube 
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made their 
Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux propulsion 
system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used inexpensive and 
used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to cobble together a system 
that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later, they upgraded to lithium 
batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From their experience, while the 
sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes sense on a boat that was designed 
with a shaft going through the hull.  I think the real key is being willing to 
plan around your capability in terms of range and speed.  If you deal with 
large tides like here in the north east then pushing against a current for 
hours might just not be an option with an electric system.  So for us, trying 
to get in and out of our channel for a quick evening sail might not work well 
if I don't want to time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour 
or so of range at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I 
would actually want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 
knots)

 

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric 
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market, nobody is 
building a whole system where they can do the system design and you actually 
get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more expensive boats where 
the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a diesel, they are getting 
disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to design the system yourself and run 
your own performance numbers since you will be pairing a battery and motor and 
controller and prop together on your own.  There will be some guess work and 
experimentation involved too and a good understanding of energy and power is 
important.

 

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good performance 
and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I would expect to 
put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I haven't actually 

Re: Stus-List Timing Belt

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Josh

 

I see no belt -  there is gear interface from the crank shaft gear to the cam 
shaft and oil pump gears

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2020 9:18 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Timing Belt

 

Here is a picture from the yanmar service manual.  Sorry for the delay it took 
me a bit to get it compressed small enough.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020, 10:33 Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
wrote:

Has anyone ever experienced an issue with a broken timing belt in our 
marine diesel engines?

A club member had his break recently and it destroyed his engine which 
he choose to replace rather than repairand not sure if it actually 
could be replaced.   I'll get more info on the exact type of engine and 
the extent of the damage.  He said some marine diesel engine 'timing 
belts' can break but not cause the kind of damage his did.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Replacement mast for C 1973 MK1 Redwing 35

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

 

Check a salvage yard??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of tim via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 28, 2020 8:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: tim
Subject: Stus-List Replacement mast for C 1973 MK1 Redwing 35

 

My mast, alas, has been irreparably damaged where it connects to the spreader 
and needs to be replaced.  A new one is very expensive, so I thought I would 
see if anyone in the US Northeast/mid-atlantic area has one the I might be able 
to purchase.

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Re: Stus-List Transient overnight mooring or slip between Noank and Mystic. Recommendations?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Google for marinas in Noank and Mystic

Mystic
Fort Rachel Marine  860-536-6647 (walk to downtown, this where I haul for 
the winter, new docks, tell them I said hi)
Mystic Yacht Yard   860-536-2293
Mystic Shipyard 860-536-6588

Noank
Noank Shipyard  860-536-9681
Noank Marine860-536-0221


John and Maryann Read
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2020 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail
Subject: Stus-List Transient overnight mooring or slip between Noank and 
Mystic. Recommendations?

I was going to pick up mooring in Stonington, but Dodson’s has a 30 day minimum 
now. August 6th, one night. 35-3, 6’+ draft. 
I know this info is on here but Im working with a phone and I’m old. 
Jon
Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Shift lever

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

A friend’s circa 1980 36 shift lever broke while docking this weekend.  It was 
an exciting docking maneuver with crew climbing into the engine to manually 
shift but all is well.  Any advice on obtaining a replacement?

Edson system with separate throttle and shift levers each in its own tube 
either side of the pedestal.  Lever is cast aluminum

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List CnC34—Anything to pay attention to?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Owned our 82 for 21 seasons.  Absolutely love it.  Original Yanmar 3GM which is 
just the right power (do not recommend a smaller engine)  No major design or 
build issues just issues of being such a tender age :-)  Of course get a 
competent survey of hull rig and all systems.  Our main hatch cover had 
delamination of core as screws around the edge went through the balsa core, 
they leaked and core rotted.  Removed cover, installed solid glass around edges 
for screws, new balsa and glass, reinstalled.  Filled 2 screw holes in deck 
with epoxy reassembled and no more leaks :-)
Sails like a dream.  Very sensitive to trim and weight distribution.  Races 
with the best of them need a crew of 6 or 7.  Easily cruises for 4.  2 can 
easily sail her.  Is designed for light airs but can handle high winds and seas 
well.  The designer Rob Ball has one - need I say more?  Contact off list if 
need anything else.


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



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Stus-List White rudder

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi John

Over 20 years painted blue - no issues.  Might be an issue if the rudder is
saturated with water which would heat up on land during summer


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2020 9:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McCrea
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 32

Hello all. Wondering what the group thinks about painting the rudders white?
I always did this on my 89 Ericson 32 as I was told they had issues. When we
bought our 89 37xl it was not white and left it that way. When we bought our
current 1979 36, it was white. The past two years I have painted it the same
blue as the bottom. One of the workers at my yard suggested I reconsider, as
he has seen C rudders fail due to sun/heat exposure while on land. Thanks!


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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have had similar issues with my prior unit – Standard Horizon model 150 which 
went out of production some 15 years ago and parts are hard to come by and only 
on flea bay.

What brand and model is your speedometer?

No – no tubes per se.  Yours is all electric.  The paddle wheel has a small 
magnet in one of the blades.  As it rotates, the electric pulse is picked up by 
the transducer creating an electrical pulse which is transmitted via the wire 
to your bulkhead gauge.  The faster the wheel turns the pulse increases and 
your gauge registers greater speed.

 

Vast majority of issues are caused by growth around the blades, the blade shaft 
or water facing of the transducer.  Ensure this is absolutely clean and blades 
turn freely.  Normally requires cleaning several times each season.  If this is 
good, then your transducer may be worn out / faulty.  Virtually all are made by 
Airmar and their web site has an excellent cross reference of your unit to 
their current part number.  This will require re running the wire to your gauge 
which is often PITA and involves boat yoga.  In my case this fixed the problem.

 

When I had problem with  other units of my instruments and parts were nowhere 
to be found, Santa was very nice and provided a new suite with all the latest 
whiz bang features

 

Best of luck

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

My speedometer was not behaving well last season. I am planning to fix it 
myself. Googled the keyword, it came up a few documents suggesting blowing the 
tube to clear clog. I looked at my gauge and where there sensor is, I don't 
seem to find a tube there. Please see the pictures attached in the link. Could 
someone help me with the diagnostics? Thank you in advance.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nYSpxnzb1BImby5jz3ASLnSD3OYxKT3P

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bBgw-Ln_wr2Qae-GUCk3L_I_dAQO-ekY

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Stus-List Boat yards and covid19

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just received notice our yard (Fort Rachel) remains closed to the public and
boat owners for another month until April 30.  Boat owners are prohibited
from working on their boats during this period so will really start to
impact launch schedules.  We normally remove cover and start spring buff &
wax and bottom mid April for launch late May.  Now extended to mid May and
launch mid June (we hope)

Yacht club building remains closed. Grounds and dock are restricted.  Near
term events cancelled.  Later events under evaluation.

Tough times - stay home and stay safe


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Covid 19 update

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

https://portal.ct.gov/Coronavirus for article. "Stay Home, Stay Safe".

Has  more to do with the statewide lockdown / quarantine that went into effect 
at 8:00 last night.  Similar to the banks not allowing folks inside a branch.  
Boat yards are considered essential businesses so can stay open.  Idea is to 
keep folks at home and also to protect the yard employees.  Received a similar 
notice from another area yard

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Covid 19 update

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just got notice our yard (Fort Rachel) prohibits anyone from entering their 
property – including boat owners.  Owners are directed to not board their boats 
until further notice

 

Cheers

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

When we rebuilt our rudder several years ago, it did take removal of
quadrant, doughnut nut and some jiggling to remove.  Had 2 strong folks
helping which was a real plus as the rudder was water logged and heavy. Much
easier putting the rebuilt dry and much lighter rudder back in.  Good advice
to bridle the rudder to prevent a crash to the ground

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 7:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal.

 

Whoa...the 40s rudder was a 4 man job.  

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 6:31:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MkII Rudder removal. 

 

On the MK I, once you get the collar and the quadrant off, it should be
free. I had to wiggle mine and pull it to get it out. It was surprisingly
light once I got it loose, no issue carrying it around.

Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I

On 3/14/2020 3:18 PM, Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote:

Hi all, I started the process of removing my rudder. I have loosened the
quadrant and cables attached to it and removed the bearing on the top of the
rudder. Should it now just drop out? What else needs to be done?. 

 

Thanks all. 





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Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We apply lemon oil every year to all teak interior surfaces and they look
great.  Wipe on, let sit for a while then wipe down with clean rag.  There
is a noticeable difference / improvement when the new oil is applied.
Saloon floor is gloss varnish - light sand and revarnish every 5 years or
so.  Looks great.  Exterior teak is Cetol thin coat every spring. Going on
our 21st season

 

My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2020 11:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting

 

An all teak head never made sense to me.  With showers and our leaving the
hatch open for air flow led us to partially paint the head's bulkheads.
Very happy with the practical and aesthetic result.  PaInting the saloon
however, is a different discussion. 

And I do believe our bulkheads are veneered so sanding through the veneer is
a distinct possibility.  Did that in few spots whilst refinishing floors.  

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joe Della Barba
via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 10:48:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior teak painting 

 

Resale value was not even a consideration when I painted the head bulkhead,
so YMMV on that. I do like how it came out well enough to think about doing
it to some other areas too. For the head at least it makes cleanup a lot
easier. 

Joe  

Coquina  C 35 MK I

 

On 3/1/2020 5:26 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List wrote:

As someone who sells Yachts for a living, painting over teak would be a show
stopper and/or a cause to cut the offer significantly.  If you are covering
the floor you are obviously "hiding water damage" (always better to replace
the floor with real or synthetics).   If you are painting over cabinetry you
it looks like you are covering up a serious event that was a result of
flooding.

 

Solid woods like on our boats can & should be sanded down and re-treated.
There is a (once) beautiful 38 Landfall that  had such serious leaks while
on the hard that it was raining below decks.  Nobody will touch the boat
now.  When in good shape it was selling for $75k.  It's now collecting dirt
and we can't get offers for $5k for the boat. 

 

Looking like you are trying to hide something is almost as bad as letting
the boat just rot.

 

That all said, if you aren't concerned with re-sale, do what you want to
make the boat look good for your purposes.  Just realize the implications.
I replaced my floor and am sanding and re-finishing my wood where needed as
time does take a toll and things get wet from sailing, sun, rain and crew.
It is a boat after all. 

 

Neil Andersen

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

  _  

 

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Re: Stus-List Number of C 41s that are still afloat?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just for the 34, the production run was 4 years – 1978 to 1982.  We have one of 
the last built hull number 464.  A friend formerly had hull 002 built in 1978.  
That is almost 500 of just one model in 4 years.  Lots and lots of C’s built 
and this list alone verifies lots and lots are still going!!  Great boats

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 29, 2020 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ken Heaton; Will Gerstmyer
Subject: Re: Stus-List Number of C 41s that are still afloat?

 

I'm not sure what you mean by 700 C's built. Maybe that's a typo and you 
meant 7000 ?

There were well over 7000 C's built within just the first 17 years of 
operation, and they operated for about 26 years. I'm probably underestimating 
that number as that's just off the top of my head.

Check the "History of C" on Stu's C Photo Album website.

Sailboat Data list numbers for some models of C

Ken H.

On Saturday, 29 February 2020, Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
> Hi. I can find that there were 700-something C built—but no breakdown by 
> model, so that includes all models. Does anybody know how many were 41’s? How 
> many are still afloat? Thanks, Will
>
> Will Gerstmyer
> 978-609-1331
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 - second propane locker?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours is the same as Wisper

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nathan Post 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2020 11:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 - second propane locker?

 

Dennis,

That is interesting - on my 1981 C 34 there is a second propane locker on the 
port side - I keep a spare propane tank in it. It has a drain to outside the 
hull above water line same as on starboard.  Assuming you have the through hull 
on the outside on port, I would guess that a previous owner glued/painted the 
lid down and you just need to pry it open.  The hinges are symmetric about the 
helm seat on my boat.

Hope that helps,

Nathan

- -

Nathan Post

S/V Wisper, Lynn MA

1981 C 34 CB

 





On Feb 18, 2020, at 8:44 PM, DMcMillan via CnC-List  
wrote:



My 1981 C 34 has a propane locker on the starboard side of the helm seat.  
The locker has a hinged lid.  On the port side of the helm seat there is a 
similar seat but the “lid” does not open.  Has anyone opened this up and 
utilized the space for storage?  

 

Thanks.

Dennis

Victoria, BC

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Stus-List Holding tanks

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi John

Perhaps a dumb question, but Kracor must be selling tanks to stay in
business and if they only work through distributors or OEM's there must be
some who will deal with the public  Will Kracor provide a list of
distributors??  Maybe try some boat OEM's??

Best of luck

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 27, 2020 9:50 AM
To: 'SEAN CONNER'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McCrea
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55

Thanks Sean. My research had brought me to Ronco for the same 18 gallon
tank. So I must be on the right path. Will get the book!

-Original Message-
From: SEAN CONNER  
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 5:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55

I just completed a total head plumbing refit on our new boat, and wanted to
concur with Adrian's comments. I ended up adding a new holding tank as well
(long story) and fortunately I was able to figure out the model of the OEM
Kracor tank.  Ronco then used that info and came up with a nearly exact
match.  So if you can draft a good dimensional drawing, they will likely
find a stock mold that will fit.  For us it ended up being an 18 gallon
tank.  I ordered a blank tank and the total cost including shipping to NH
was about $340.   BTW, I also used Peggy's book as a guide, and used
Uniseals for the fittings installed on top of tank.  easy peasy.  Good luck!

> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:54:03 -0500
> From: Adrian Humphreys 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Tank Replacement.
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Ronco-Plastics.com
> 
> They have ready-made tooling for a lot of different tanks, and will work
with you to find one that fits your need. Make a dimensioned drawing for
them. The tank is roto-molded when you order, so you can specify the
fittings you want.  The original tank under the v-berth on our C had
the outlet at the bottom of the vee where it had cracked and leaked. We
specified a "dip-tube" outlet, so all the fittings (inlet, vent, inspection
port, and outlet) are on or near the top. The tank we chose is a very close
match to the original and fits the space well. They will also create custom
tooling, but IIRC, the price estimate started at $2,000+
> 
> Cost was a little over $300 for our 18 gallon tank and fittings; UPS
shipping from California was almost half that. Rich Gray at Ronco was a
great help.
> 
> We added all new plumbing, larger vent, hand bilge pump to empty it, an
external sensor kit from ferriellosales.com/monitoring-systems.html
($150.00), and a lot of labor. The Peggy Hall book was essential to the
planning (amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/).
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Epilogue, Rockport ME
> C 33-2 
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Jan 24, 2020, at 9:30 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List
 wrote:
> > 
> > Hello. I am in the process of replacing the holding tank on our 1979 C
36. We bought the boat in 2018 and it had a bladder for a tank under the v.
I want to go back to the original configuration of the 24-gallon plastic
tank. I visited a sister ship last weekend and after taking all the
dimensions, I found the tank on the Kracor website. Kracor no longer sells
to the public. Through some marine industry connections, I did find out that
Tartan does have the toolings for that tank but said that be prepared to pay
a lot for it. As in over $500. Does anyone else know of a source for either
a custom tank or something similar to the original? Thanks!
> >  
> > John McCrea
> > Talisman
> > Mystic, CT
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>




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Stus-List Battery charger

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Many thanks for everyone's comments.  It is very apparent the solution is
totally dependent on the use, availability of shore power, duration of need
and power needed.  In my case it is only once or twice during the winter and
to top off before launch.  A portable unit makes the most sense as I will
always be with the boat when it is being used, only need one bank at a time
and need to be mindful of not too much amp due to long extension cord runs
to power in the yard.  After much research the West Marine BC15 15 amp one
bank made the most sense.  Internet search showed an identical unit labeled
as Black & Decker for half the price and next day delivery through Amazon.

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List battery charger

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our ancient deep cycle charger died so in the market for a new one.  Use it
only to top off group 27 batteries in winter and spring before launch.  Boat
lives on a mooring, minimal electronics on board, normal engine running is
typically enough to keep charged during the season.  Do not intend to
permanent mount in boat. Portable, multi stage, 1 bank nothing fancy is just
fine.  Internet seems to favor BMK 12V 5amp
https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Maintainer-Detachable-Alligator-Waterproof/dp/B06
XK7PM9F

 

Thoughts??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Olivier

 

Would definitely NOT recommend a transmission with different gearing.  Others 
have chimed in with reasons why.  We had ours rebuilt a few years ago and has 
been perfect ever since.  From what we can tell, there is an art to these items 
so experience is key.  We initially used a local mechanic with great 
transmission credentials with poor results.  We discovered Rick Neary, had 
great conversations, shipped it to him via USPS parcel post and had it back 
again within 10 days.  He was the technician who actually did all the Yanmar 
transmission rebuilds / repairs for Mack Boring, the Yanmar distributor until 
they stopped offering this service a few years ago so went out on his own.  
Pricing very reasonable – parts are the biggest expense.

 

Rick Neary

East Coast Marine Transmissions

253 Vineyard Ave

South Amboy, NJ  08879

732-991-0694

eastcoastmarinetransmiss...@gmail.com

 

Not an endorsement per se- just one satisfied customer’s experience.  If you 
call please tell him we said hello

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Olivier 
Chatot via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2020 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Olivier Chatot
Subject: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio

 

Hi all,

 

I have an interesting situation with my transmission. I would like to share it 
with you and get some opinions.

 

I have a Yanmar 3HM35F engine with a Kanzaki KBW10 transmission. I need to 
replace this transmission because it's been malfunctioning.

 

Someone near me has a new Kanzaki KM3P for sale. I believe the mounting flange 
is the same shape and size, so physically mounting this transmision would be 
possible.

 

However, this transmission has a different gear ratio than my old transmission. 
My old transmission has a gear ratio of 2.14 (2.50 in reverse) and the new 
transmission has a gear ratio of 2.61 (3.16 in reverse). Since the gear ratio 
of the new transmission is higher, the prop would turn more slowly. But I 
believe it would be safe.

 

Do you agree that it would be safe to use a transmission with a higher gear 
ratio? Or, do you see something important I'm missing?

 

Other specs of the two transmissions are identical. Notably, the rotation 
direction of the two transmissions are the same.

 

Any comment is greatly appreciated.

 

Olivier Chatot

C 38-3

 

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Re: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Tom

What engine do you have?  Fresh or raw water cooled?   Common issue for Yanmar 
is exhaust riser getting plugged by carbon etc where water enters.  Will also 
impact engine performance.  Disconnect hose where enters exhaust riser.  If 
water streams, then you have your answer.  Also check the fitting where hose 
attaches to riser – is clear??  If not, best place is check if any blockage at 
intake or strainer – maybe something got into and plugged the hose??  A 
friend’s hose inlet has less than ideal configuration and frequently sucks up 
eel grass and such and plugs the inlet hose.  Another culprit might be the pump 
impeller lost a vane and is stuck in the system before the strainer.

 

Just some thoughts and good luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 12:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Raw Water Blocked

 

Alera has a blockage somewhere in the raw water system.  Nothing out the 
exhaust. 

 

 I checked the intake and the pump.  Both seem fine.  But, there seems to be no 
flow at the strainer.

 

I am wondering if there is some maintenance needed for the vented loop?  It is 
the next link in the chain and I’m running out of links.

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

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Re: Stus-List delrin washer

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Tried the ebay and bought 2 for $1.00 each – in stock.  Maritime Plastics 
quoted $165 (ouch).  We shall see how it works out and many thanks for 
everyone’s input

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 11:03 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List delrin washer

 

Last time I did one I got a Delrin disc from mcmaster and took it to a local 
plastics machine shop.

 

However, take a look at this:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-DELRIN-ACETAL-Plastic-WASHERS-SPACERS-made-to-your-QUANTITY-SPECS/192495207830?hash=item2cd19bc596:g:1J8AAOSwdVFaxsHK
 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA 

 

On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 8:00 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Any suggestions of source(s) for delrin washer   3 ½ OD, 1 5/8 ID, 1/8 thk.  
Google is no help

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List delrin washer

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Any suggestions of source(s) for delrin washer   3 ½ OD, 1 5/8 ID, 1/8 thk.
Google is no help

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Removed rudder nut yesterday.  Simple process - support rudder by stacking
blocks under rudder / remove locking allen screws / remove nut (used filter
wrench with good results).  Simple delrin washer between nut and mounting
plate on cockpit floor.  Inspection shows lots of crud, scratches on washer
from said crud with some build up (after 30+ years seems reasonable).
Apparently this cause seal to fail, allowing water / rain to leak in.  Fix
is to clean / polish nut and plate, new washer and reassemble.  Hopefully
that will do it.  Stay tuned.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

 

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is
no play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions
normally.  Am suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the
doughnut nut is degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust
bearing with flange or just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any
thoughts from the group?  Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a
replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill – grease is not the issue – everything functions just fine and yes 
have a hydraulic hose going to the grease fitting – issue is water / rain 
leaking in

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM 
WALKER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

 

When was last time you put grease in the cup on the shaft log?  If you don't 
have play in the rudder shaft, this may be your problem.  I am sure you know 
there is a grease cup on the shaft log where it comes through thhe hull.  Use 
Green Grease, a waterproof grease.  Fill the cup, tighten to force grease into 
shaft, turn wheel back and forth, repeat until you see new grease being forced 
out the top of rudder shaft log.  Good two person job as crawling in and out of 
that area of bilge can be tough. 
Hope this helps.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan  

  _  

On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is no 
play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions normally.  Am 
suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the doughnut nut is 
degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust bearing with flange or 
just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any  thoughts from the group?  
Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill – grease is not the issue – everything functions just fine and yes 
have a hydraulic hose going to the grease fitting – issue is water / rain 
leaking in

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM 
WALKER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 16, 2019 1:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER
Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

 

When was last time you put grease in the cup on the shaft log?  If you don't 
have play in the rudder shaft, this may be your problem.  I am sure you know 
there is a grease cup on the shaft log where it comes through thhe hull.  Use 
Green Grease, a waterproof grease.  Fill the cup, tighten to force grease into 
shaft, turn wheel back and forth, repeat until you see new grease being forced 
out the top of rudder shaft log.  Good two person job as crawling in and out of 
that area of bilge can be tough. 
Hope this helps.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan  

  _  

On Saturday, November 16, 2019 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is no 
play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions normally.  Am 
suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the doughnut nut is 
degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust bearing with flange or 
just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any  thoughts from the group?  
Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List 34 rudder shaft bearing

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our rudder shaft leaks where it passes through the cockpit floor.  There is
no play in the rudder, doughnut nut is snug and everything functions
normally.  Am suspecting the delrin (?) thrust washer / bearing under the
doughnut nut is degraded after almost 30 years.  Not sure if is a thrust
bearing with flange or just a washer.  Before I start disassembling any
thoughts from the group?  Also, any suggestions on where to obtain a
replacement?

 

TIA

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List The day has come...selling my beloved 34

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Sean

 

Sorry to hear you are selling – at the asking price she is a true bargain.  
Price seems a bit low???

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of SEAN CONNER 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 5:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: SEAN CONNER
Subject: Stus-List The day has come...selling my beloved 34

 

I’m the third owner and have cared for this yacht for 22 years. She is well 
equipped for short handed sailing.   She has modern electronics and all the 
amenities for cruising.She was repowered in 2014 with a rebuilt Yanmar 
3GM30F and a Flex-o-Fold feathering prop.  Her sail inventory is in great 
condition and consists of battened main, (2) 155% genoas, and asymmetrical and 
symmetrical spinnakers.   I’ve basically rebuilt all the systems over the last 
five years. LADYHAWKE is now are the hard for the winter in Eliot ME with 
storage paid through the winter.  Potential mooring arrangements possible in 
NH.   Asking $17,500.Information and pics available at the shared drive 
below.  

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10D4Mac3IY7oMZ3VJJ7Fgu7S7y602B3hJ/view?usp=sharing

 

Sean Conner

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Re: Stus-List Support the List -- Donate to Stu

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Stu

 

Many many thanks for keeping this list together – it is truly priceless.  
Paypal is complete

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Edd

 

Many thanks for doing this but some thoughts to consider:

1)  Wouldn’t Stu have much of this info in his list?

2)  How do we include listers who are not active at this time or choose not 
to respond to or do not see this request?

3)  If Stu should (horrors) decide to retire, couldn’t another person just 
take over the list, be the administrator and leave its data etc intact?

 

Just a thought and in any event a HUGE THANK YOU TO STU for all his work these 
many years

 

John and Maryann Read

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

464

johnprea...@gmail.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 04, 2019 8:24 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin / Salazar / C 37/40 XL / 1990 / CAN 54955 / 
sail.sala...@gmail.com / Sydney NS (Canada)

 

Edd, you may want to add a spot to enter a url for those who have websites, 
etc. for their boats.

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

  
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html

 

 

 

On Thu, 3 Oct 2019 at 17:53, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

 

In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin board 
/ photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will act as a 
supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer interested in 
continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using now.

 

I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, 
please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to 
me) with the following information:

 

Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
Port

 

For example:

Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /  
 e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL

 

Thanks to all. 

 

And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out 
and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL 

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log   

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Exhaust elbow

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eugene Fodor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 17, 2019 8:14 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Eugene Fodor
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

 

My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It also 
appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at the dock 
forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be able to get up 
to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with no issue, but I'm 
only getting to about 2500-2800. When I open the throttle wide it in gear it 
initially goes to high RPMs and then drops back. I replaced the fuel filter and 
the symptom remains the same. Any thoughts on what to look for and approaches 
to debug? 

 

I've got the service manual and Don Casey's book on small engines, but nothing 
is matching the symptoms in trouble shooting exactly well.

 

So my theories are (in approximate order of suspicion from my novice 
perspective based on reading)

 

Governor is faulty and needs adjustment

Injector faulty

Fuel pump issue

Air/water in fuel (I think I've mostly ruled this out)

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Fort Rachel Marine in Mystic
Great folks - do anything you want by yourself or they will be glad to do it 
for you (for a fee of course).  Great mechanic and fiberglass repair on site 
(separate businesses)  Have rental vacuum orbital sanders for bottom. 
Reasonable pricing.  Very protected.  Very knowledgeable about handling boats.  
Great restaurant / bar next door (Daniel Packer Inn) 5 minutes from I-95.  Been 
storing on the hard for 30+ years.  Nuff said


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail
Subject: Stus-List Winter storage CT

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Hatch Springs...

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

 

Our forward hatch has 2 coiled springs that act to keep the hatch partially
open and do nothing to prevent bouncing off the deck.  They allow air flow
through the hatch.  As for exuberant opening prevention, the adjusting rod
has a groove in the outboard end in which a nylon washer is inserted which
prevents the hatch from opening too far.

Hope this helps

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Risch via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2019 10:32 AM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David Risch
Subject: Stus-List Hatch Springs...

 

So I have two coiled hatch springs which the hatch hinge pin capture on my
1981rebuilt Atkins and Hoyle forward hatch.

They are there to prevent the hatch from bouncing off the deck when it was
flung fully open for chute drops.   

For the life of me I can't figure out how to install them to function as
intended.  

Anybody have any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ditto to what Edd advises except for:

1)  Really light air –we have an extra set of sheets ready to go of light 
sheets and shackles – reduces weight of the chute so it still can fly and makes 
a HUGE difference

2)  Heavy air – the 34 is rather tender so the chute overpowers everything 
and we find going with the 135 set wing on wing works much better as no 
roundups or excitement.  We are doing hull speed anyway so why push things??   
Your boat may be different

 

Cheers

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker

 

Tom,

 

The Enterprise-A was a C 34, which was very similar to yours. While I can say 
universally that you should disconnect the babystay when using the chute, I’ll 
state that the answer to your other questions, at least for me, depends on 
conditions. 

 

A single sheet and single guy, going end to end, is the simple way in light 
air, however, I would suggest the flexibility of changing how you do things 
when wind conditions increase. In moderate air I would add lazies. In heavy 
air, you and your foredeck ape will probably prefer to dip the pole, so that 
one end is always attached giving you better control. 

 

Skills-wise, your crew will also appreciate knowing how to handle various 
setups. 

 

As I said, no matter what, you’re going to want that babystay off, especially 
since your pole uphaul will help keep the pole up during those jibe maneuvers, 
and it will get caught up in the babystay if it’s fully attached doing an 
end-to-end jibe. It will be impossible to do a dip-pole jibe with a babystay in 
place. 

 

All the best, 

 

Edd





---—---

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY

Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

www.StarshipSailing.com

-

914.774.9767   | Mobile

-

Sent via iPhone X

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize






On Jun 12, 2019, at 3:22 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi all,

 

I’m looking advice/recommendations on symmetrical spinnaker jibing on my 33 MK 
II

 

I’ve got a single set of spinnaker sheets

 

Should a deploy and add lazy sheets and guys?

Or use a twinning line barber hauling system 

 

How to handle the baby stay?  Should I disconnect it and To facilitate a Pole 
dip or do pole end for end jibing. 

 

Appreciate anyone’s thoughts and opinions on this subject. 

 

Tom Lynch

IndoIrish

C 33 MK II

Bayfield Wisconsin. 

 

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Re: Stus-List Ahoy! New to the list

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Dirk

 

Welcome to the group and your purchase of an outstanding boat.  Many of us have 
owned our boats for many years and are most willing to share thoughts and 
advice – just be cautious of any fore deck cows  J  We are the second owners of 
our 34 for 20 years now and just love the boat.  This list is an amazing wealth 
of knowledge – do not be afraid to ask!!!

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dirk Niles 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 11:05 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dirk Niles
Subject: Stus-List Ahoy! New to the list

 

 

Hello, all - 

I am new to this list (and am buying a new-to-me C this week!) and am 
wondering if there is a way to search the list archives? I have found the cnc 
photoalbum to be a treasure trove and have combed that site extensively. I have 
also manually searched the digests, but that is not a long-term solution, and I 
really hate to post a bunch of "hey, folks, where can I find info on ___"  to 
the list. So any search options and advice you can share is greatly 
appreciated. Thank you!

 

Dirk Niles

1981 C "Great Joy" (formerly "Magic, Too")

Duluth, MN

 

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Re: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Brian

All can be DIY question is how much do you want to DIY?  All these items take 
lots of time and good weather conditions to fix.
Windows have been discussed extensively on this list - check the archives.  I 
used the SikaFlex system 10 years ago - still going strong.
Forward hatch can either be rebuilt or replaced.  If the frame is good then 
rebuild is preferred.  Select Plastics in Norwalk CT is a reliable source
Companionway hatch - I just replaced mine.  Remove main traveler, remove hatch 
cover, remove teak pieces from plexi, take plexi to plastics shop (I used Laird 
Plastics who are nationwide) to replicate, reinstall.  The hatch cover has a 
design issue in that the coring goes to the edges allowing water to get in 
through screw holes.  Mine was completely water logged and spongy so I removed 
and rebuilt mine a few years ago and fixed by having solid epoxy about 1 inch 
wide around perimeter.

Where are you located?


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian 
Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 12:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Morrison
Subject: Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades

Hello,
I have a 1979 C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch, 
companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and have 
crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much 
appreciated. 

Thanks

Brian
S/V Rekofa
1979 C
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Stus-List Companionway Hatch Cover

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just an update for the good of the order.  Contacted Laird Plastics in
Warwick RI yesterday.  Drove up there today with old hatch.  Arrived at
1:30.  At 3:30 new hatch was done.  Drove home.  Holes perfectly drilled for
teak pieces.  Will install this weekend.  Great service, reasonable pricing.
One satisfied customer no relation

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Hatch cover

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

The opaque plastic slider over the companionway stairs when you open it slides 
under the fiberglass hatch.  They get severely crazed over the years.  In my 
case doofus here stepped on it when I had the assembly apart causing a large 
crack.  Operator error and all that

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bush 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2019 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch cover

 

John, exactly how does a Hatch cover "give up the ghost"?  I am trying to 
picture this in my mind...are you talking about the piece of fiberglass over 
the sliding hatch? or a piece of wood (or plexi) that sits in the 
companionway...thanks 

 

 

Richard

1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David Risch via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Risch 
Sent: Sun, May 12, 2019 9:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch cover

Cast acrylic from Laird Plastics in Warwick.  Give them your old piece and they 
will replicate it.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of John and Maryann 
Read via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2019 9:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Hatch cover

 

Our plastic sliding hatch cover for the main companionway gave up the ghost.  
Does a lister in the CT or RI area have one looking for a new home?  Any 
recommendations for a replacement source and what is the preferred material?

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List Hatch cover

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our plastic sliding hatch cover for the main companionway gave up the ghost.
Does a lister in the CT or RI area have one looking for a new home?  Any
recommendations for a replacement source and what is the preferred material?

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn

 

FWIW, there is a designer’s commentary on the 34 by Rob Ball as the designer.  
I also believe he owns one here on Buzzard’s Bay.  There is also a posting 
today on this list of a 34 for sale very inexpensively.

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Wright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2019 11:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

 

Thanks, John. I like the 34, and it's the only C designed by Bruce King, 
whose designs I really like, in addition to Rob Ball and C But there is only 
one near me on the West Coast. It's in Gig Harbour, Wa and the price is a bit 
more than our budget at 30K USD, although with a tiller, it might be a slow 
seller. Beautiful boat, and the tiller wouldn't bother me at all, except the 
cockpit seating is designed for a wheel. I don't know that there is a C model 
between 29 and 38 that wouldn't be a good fit; it's just finding one near me at 
a decent price is the problem.

 

This 1970 35-1 is interesting, and I will take a look if we go to Vancouver to 
see the 29 that is listed at the same broker (not on YW).

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1970/c-c-35-3530795/?refSource=standard%20listing

 

I understand the 35-1 is lighter with shorter LWL, rates a tiny bit slower, but 
maybe better in light air. The rudder is less effective than the later blade. 
Not sure of other differences aside from minor cosmetics.

 

On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 4:16 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Shawn

 

Have you considered a C??  Owned ours for 20 years and love it.  Sails like 
a dream.  Easily handled by 2.  Great layout.  Full headroom, enclosed head 
with shower, 3 burner propane stove with oven, large ice box, hot & cold 
pressurized water, full length bunks.  Cruises 4 well including their gear.  No 
generic build or design issues.  There are several on Yachtworld attractively 
priced.  The later hull numbers have a better interior finish (475 built).   Of 
course at this vintage individual condition may vary.

My 2 cents American

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

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Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn

 

Have you considered a C??  Owned ours for 20 years and love it.  Sails like 
a dream.  Easily handled by 2.  Great layout.  Full headroom, enclosed head 
with shower, 3 burner propane stove with oven, large ice box, hot & cold 
pressurized water, full length bunks.  Cruises 4 well including their gear.  No 
generic build or design issues.  There are several on Yachtworld attractively 
priced.  The later hull numbers have a better interior finish (475 built).   Of 
course at this vintage individual condition may vary.

My 2 cents American

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Shifting cable

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Fred

 

Are your cables located inside the pedestal itself or inside the external 
support tubes?  Ours are in the external tubes and can offer some lessons 
learned when I replaced ours a few years back

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fred Hazzard
Subject: Stus-List Shifting cable

 

I am replacing the cable. Is the cable fastened to the pedestal some near where 
the cable attaches to the shift lever?

 

Thanks

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or

 

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Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ken

This was addressed a while (years?) back on this list.  We also have the smoke 
white.  White base then so many drops of brown, yellow and red as I recall.  
When I get a moment will see if I can find it in my records

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2019 8:26 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color

 

The most common deck colour by far was "Smoke White".  There were a few 
"Neptunus White" and a very few were actually "Pure White or "White".

 

Renting the swatch book as Dennis suggests is a very good idea I'd think.

 

Ken H.

 

 

On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 19:25, Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
wrote:

Looking for input on original gelcoat color name/number for our venerable C

My 41 is what I thought was white (but as my wife can attest, my color vision 
leave much to be desired) however, as I put a spot of base white on a repair, 
it is way off.

Does anyone know what color I'm trying to match?  I get the 35 years of 
elements taking their toll, but the gelcoat is pretty thick on these boats, and 
I may sand out some of the patina which will put me closer to the original 
color.

Thanks in advance,

 

Chuck

 

Chuck Borge

Tenacious C

Somerset, MA

 

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Re: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Many thanks to all for their input.  Wound up getting 7/16 New England Sta
Set – 7000 lb breaking – eye splice both ends 2 soft shackles.  By all
accounts should help a lot to prevent hanging up on the baby stay when
tacking.  Purchased from Defender who is next town over from me

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2019 7:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

 

Am replacing genoa sheets but uncertain of correct size.   Currently use ½
inch but seem a bit oversize.  Plan to get Sta set or similar with soft
shackle.  What size do other 34 / 33 owners use?

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am replacing genoa sheets but uncertain of correct size.   Currently use ½
inch but seem a bit oversize.  Plan to get Sta set or similar with soft
shackle.  What size do other 34 / 33 owners use?

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

No precleaning required - but then not much activity below during the season

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

 

Do you clean it first?  If so, with what?

 

From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 8:28 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: John and Maryann Read <mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com>  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

 

Lemon oil.  Inexpensive.  Liberally coat rag to apply.  Let stand for 15 min
or so.  Wipe down again with dry rag.  Easy peazy no muss or fuss.  Lemon
gives nice scent and seems to deal with mildew well.  Teak looks great for
the season.  I apply each year usually in March before cover comes off so is
comfortable down below.  Takes about 4 man hours

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Special recipe?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Lemon oil.  Inexpensive.  Liberally coat rag to apply.  Let stand for 15 min
or so.  Wipe down again with dry rag.  Easy peazy no muss or fuss.  Lemon
gives nice scent and seems to deal with mildew well.  Teak looks great for
the season.  I apply each year usually in March before cover comes off so is
comfortable down below.  Takes about 4 man hours

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 5:27 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Special recipe?

 

One more rime...for the oil for the bulkheads?  

Thanks in advance 

Get Outlook for Android

 

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Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Thanks but that is what I was using and not so satisfactory, hence the 
initiative to change

 

John Read

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 8:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

There is an anti slime version of Hydracoat. More expensive. PETTIT PAINT 
Hydrocoat SR Dual-Biocide Ablative Antifouling Paint. Hydrocoat SR takes the 
proven formula of Hydrocoat and adds the slime inhibitor Irgarol for effective 
prevention of tough hard and soft growth. Jerry 


Specifications:Aluminum Safe:  Not Aluminum SafeAnti-Slime Additive:  Irgarol


Sent from my iPhone


On Mar 10, 2019, at 8:28 PM, Mark Baldridge via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The PO of our boat used SeaHawk in Mobile Bay. It looked great at the survey 
after 2-ish years.

I'm now in North Carolina in the Pamlico River. Had SeaHawk Biocop TF blue put 
on May 2017. I had the boat pulled last week to install a a PYI dripless 
stuffing box and cutlass bearing and the bottom still looks great. I've cleaned 
it in the water only 3 or 4 times (using scuba) and I've had a short pull and 
pressure wash twice in almost to two years. I'm in brackish water and in a 
creek that doesn't get a lot of current. Highly recommend it!

Mark Baldridge 
~~_/) 
'89 C/40+ "The Edge" 
Surf City, NC 

On 3/10/2019 6:43 PM, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List wrote:

I’m curious to see the responses as well.  Last year was my first with ablative 
bottom paint and I used TotalBoat Underdog.  Great reviews, but my experience 
in the Chesapeake Bay was that I had to be hauled and pressure washed by late 
summer, because I couldn’t get the engine above an idle.   The barnacle growth 
was complete coverage of the prop and about 3” thick algae forest on the hull 
with heavy barnacle growth under it.  I know last year was bad for growth on 
the bay, but I have to find something better this year.  

 

From: John and Maryann Read [mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

 

Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  Moor 
in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement.  
Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??

 

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 





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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Sea Hawk Bottom Paint

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Am searching for a better water based ablative multi season bottom paint.  Moor 
in a river with salt tidal water so there is a constant water movement.  
Temperature ranges from 55 in early spring to 70 in late August.  Have used 
Pettit Hydrocoat SR with less than satisfactory results – much slime.  Came 
across SeaHawk which by its claims looks promising.  Anyone have experience??

 

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/boat-bottom-paint-c-13523.html/boat-bottom-paint-water-based-bottom-paint-c-13523_14116.html/monterey-self-polishing-solvent-free-bottom-paint-p-9484.html

 

TIA

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Many thanks!!

 

John

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2019 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

 

John,

 

There is a simple way to replace the guts of the Yanmar buzzer alarm.  I first 
fix mine and then fix a neighbors.   Ends up looking original, is waterproof, 
and has worked fine for over nine years to date.I posted a description some 
time back on the list, which I’ll dig up.  Total cost under $30.

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On Jan 13, 2019, at 11:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2019 14:17:38 -0500
From: "John and Maryann Read" <  
johnprea...@gmail.com>
To: <  cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer
Message-ID: <003f01d4ab74$a68c5e00$f3a51a00$@com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Ours has given up the ghost (gee it's only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI
1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4
pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar
3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16"hole.  Issue is locating one of these -
with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on
flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer
for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.



Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?



John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Ours has given up the ghost (gee it's only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI
1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4
pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar
3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16"hole.  Issue is locating one of these -
with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on
flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer
for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.

 

Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20 years. 
 Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.  Traditional layout 
that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove with oven, etc.  
Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.  Normally have Yanmar 
diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better interiors 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rod Stright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.  We 
won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and on the 
trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept the bow 
from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t cope and had to 
motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves back down into the 
sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A lot of room below 
compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline as I recall).  Very 
well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but overall they seem to have 
stood up fairly well.

 

Good luck!!

 

Rod Stright

C 99 

Halifax

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-10-19 5:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

 

Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto album 
site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it very useful

 

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Steve,

 

Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings 
around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and walked 
every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island, that's not 
a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There are new 
private listings starting to appear every day now, but nothing new at the 
brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so the 
boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of my 
price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have not 
been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos I've 
seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now considering the CS 
30, but they are much less common here. Lots of C, but anything over 27' is 
usually asking too much, like $30K+. I even looked at Catalina 30... 

 

The only C 32 listed here currently is asking $40K, and the broker says it's 
because the wife says sell, but the husband doesn't want to, so he won't drop 
the price...

There are a ton of C here (at WestPort in Sidney they are more common that 
Catalinas) but the prices seem higher than most places.

 

I do need to get on board a few more C to get a feel for them, as I have 
only been on the 26, 35-2 and 37 so far. And yes, a diesel is a must. Trouble 
is, I want a decent light air boat that can also handle rough seas that we will 
sea at times, especially north of Desolation Sound. And that usually means at 
least 32', which is a challenge to get for $20-25K CAD. 

 

But I am learning at lot along the way. :)

 

Thanks

 

On Wed, Jan 9, 2019 at 6:23 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Shawn, talk to some brokers and look at their boats is my advice. 

 

This reminds me of a guy who came out to buy a hatchback I was selling 
recently. The guy drove over an hour out to the countryside where we live to 
look at the car, and to try his kid seat in it. It didn't end up fitting how he 
liked. He would have saved both of us a lot of time if he had just gone to a 
used car lot and done his decision making there. Likewise, you can learn a lot 
walking the docks and talking to other boat owners, or calling on brokers and 
seeing their boats. Those folks are literally paid to show boats. Get your 
short list figured out, buy the first boat that meets your requirements and 
price point. Go sailing. 

 

For what it's worth. This is why I priced my boat low when I sold it, and went 
through a broker. Quick sale, and only the serious buyers will make the effort. 
First guy who looked at it, bought it. Had to rip the bandage off, it was a 
hard decision. 

 

Sorry if my earlier message sounded full of crankitude - I'm boatless, and 
jealous :)

 

If you're looking at boats in those size ranges, I REALLY loved my C 32. And 
they tend to be priced lower for whatever reason, they're not great PHRF boats 
and it seems around here that's what matters. They are a great handling, and 
sailing boat that one can cruise on in comfort, though. Mine was a 1980, later 
ones came with diesels, mine had an A4. Purchased for 18k, sold for 25k five 
years 

Stus-List Standard Horizon speed / depth / wind system

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Santa was very nice to me this year (many thanks Fred for all your help) so am 
selling our old system.  Details are at  
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Horizon-Wind-Speed-Depth-System-100-150-series/292908919859

 

Great for an economical starter system or parts for an existing system

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Cockpit drain valves should always be open whether on the boat or not – 
otherwise there is no way for water in the cockpit to drain.  The valve is 
there solely in the event the hose breaks or leaks.  I also have frozen valves. 
 Have owned the boat for 20 years and never exercised them – just too hard to 
get to.  Suspect PO never exercised them either.  Yes I know I should get them 
working but just have never gotten around to it.

 

The rusted bolt is where the grease fitting screws into the fiberglass rudder 
shaft tube.  I replaced mine with a hydraulic hose with grease cup next to fuel 
tank in starboard locker.  Easy to get to and easy to get grease into tube.

 

My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sender via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2018 11:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sender
Subject: Stus-List Ye Olde Stuck Seacock issue

 

I bought earlier this year a C 32.  One issue the surveyor pointed out is the 
seacocks for the cockpit drains are stuck in the open position.  This boat has 
spent it's known history in cold salt water on the west coast of BC.

 

I'm interested to know if anyone else has had this same type of seacock, and 
had success freeing it up.  

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xp1haN2nPHUneETUA


 

The starboard side one is only barely accessible through the 12"x 12" panel in 
the aft end of the quarter-birth.  If it was reasonably accessible, I'd just 
replace it, but to get 2 hands on it I'd probably have to go through the locker 
and remove the fuel tank.

 

The other pic is a fitting on the rudder tube.  I assume this is (well, was) a 
grease cup.  Has anyone taken one of these on?

 

Thanks,

Eric

C 32 Sirocco 2

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Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year - now tote bags

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

They have a store here in Mystic.  Got bags made – great folks to work with

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2018 7:47 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year - now tote bags

 

Ian,

 

I recycled an old small sail a few months ago to https://seabags.com/.  They 
made a nice medium tote bag for the admiral in exchange.  They were easy to 
work with.

 

The size and condition of your sail will dictate what size and/or how many tote 
bags they offer in exchange.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Mon, Dec 24, 2018 at 9:51 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Richard,

 

Where did you get them made. I have an old jib I would like to do that with. 
It’s a carbon kami are and it’s too far gone to even give it away   

 

Thank you

 

And a Merry Christmas from San Francisco to all C sailors. 

 

Ian Matthew

C 29.1. “Siento el Viento”

 

On Mon, Dec 24, 2018 at 12:59 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Merry Christmas to all the C families;; I bought a new Main sail last 
year, so this year all of my family (12 people in all) are getting a tote bag 
made from my old Mainsailthey look great, I almost hate to give them 
away...but it is Christmas...!!!

Richard

 

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; River rising again...

 

 

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

-- 

Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Mark

 

Have been down this road with my ancient Standard Horizon system (wind, speed, 
depth).  Great system but has been out of production for 15+ years so parts are 
nonexistent.  A few years back had the same depth issue and solved with a new 
transducer and it works just fine.  Last season the wind direction died and 
replacement circuit board is not available so I decided to change.  I opted for 
the Raymarine  i50 / i60 system as best fit for my needs, functionality, 
pricing, availability and support.  Fred Street was a big help on this.

 

Essentially all transducers are made by Airmar.  Check 
http://www.airmartechnology.com/xref.html to see if there is one for your unit. 
 Order through Fred Street or check flea bay or if you’re lucky a lister might 
have one hanging around.  Fred may be able to help.  

 

If you are thinking of replacing the system and upgrading to an integrated one 
be sure you have NMEA compatibility especially to your wheel pilot and GPS.

 

Best of luck  

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2018 4:11 PM
To: C List
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

 

 

I'd appreciate some advice regarding a non-functioning depth sounder.

Near the end of the season my depth sounder started reading 0 no matter the 
condition.  I couldn't find any obvious explanation for the problem - but I'm 
thinking that the Autohelm depth and speedo are original to the 1986 boat - so 
likely better to suck it up and replace than to jury rig a repair or sink money 
into a new transducer.

Should I just replace the broken depth and worry about the speedo at at another 
time?  Anyone think it's better to do a whole package?

I have a Raymarine wheel pilot (waiting for me to install) - so I assume the 
smart move would be to stick with the same product line. Such as - Raymarine 
i40 Depth System with Thru-Hull Transducer E70142.  With the Binnacle a new 
depth sounder $340, and a new speedo ($350) combined for almost $700 - would I 
be better to add a whole package with wind instruments?

Raymarine i70s Instrument Value Pack Speed Depth Wind T70226 -  
https://tinyurl.com/y9zumft6 - $1600 cdn at Binnacle (I wouldn't mind if I 
could get water temp as well but don't know if that's an option with Raymarine).

Another option - someone on this list suggested SailTimer as a better option 
for wind instruments.

Thanks in advance

Mark

 

 

-- 
 
 
 
 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Don

RE: packing - you may have too much in the stuffing box.  Our 34 has a 1
inch shaft.  We use 3/16 Teflon packing (much better than flax).  3 strands
cut at 45 degrees with joints staggered.  Works just fine.  Takes a few
adjustments to get the correct drip - none when at rest a few drops per
minute when running.  So we have 9/16 total packing.  If you have 4 strands
of 1/4 inch that is a full one inch - too much IMHO.  Also most important to
ensure you have all the old packing in fact removed.  We use a 1 1/2 inch
screw and screw it into each strand and it easily is removed.  You know you
have it all out if the nut moves freely around the shaft at various angles.

RE: air - have you checked the shut off valve on the inlet?  Maybe needs to
be removed and rebedded??  Same thing on the filter fittings.  How about the
inlet tube inside the tank where it mates to the fitting?  Yes a low fuel
level in the tank will allow air in if heeled to starboard as the inlet is
on the port side.  Just some ideas


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT




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Stus-List Instruments

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well
except the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are in
need of replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work great.  We
do not have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart plotter or AIS
as no need

 

We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions of
which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50 suite
due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost, ready
availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.  Hole
size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in bulkhead
but have the room

 

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and
-wind-systems-pack

=-1|344|2028690|2028820=2086335

 

 

Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Baby stay

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

I find the baby stay is an essential part for controlling mast pumping and 
flattening the mainsail especially when racing.  I was amazed at how much the 
mast pumped without the baby stay when going to windward in 15 knots apparent 
and one to two foot seas.  Just lie on the deck and look up the mast and you 
can easily see how much it moves with corresponding impact on the main sail 
shape.  The baby stay eliminates all that movement so the main sail maintains 
its shape and flattens it as well.  We found it helped boat speed.  Yes it 
requires crew to get the genoa past it when tacking and one more thing to keep 
track of but isn’t sailing and racing a continuous process of adjustments?

 

2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

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