Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I think I'll steer clear for now. I did
find a bunch of negative reviews.
Thanks for your help!

Kevin

On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 10:39 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 72’ schooner I used to captain was listed on POP Yachts for  year and
> a half with nary an inquiry. It finally sold due to a listing in Boats and
> Harbors magazine. A local rep associated with Pop Yachts was at the
> Oriental Boat Show last spring. On his list was a C 38 LF at a decent
> price, but he (and they) were never able to provide any information on the
> boat in response to an inquiry from a friend to whom I recommended the boat.
>
>
>
> So my two exposures to POP Yachts were pretty negative.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
>
>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
> *To:* cnc-list Cnc-List 
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Pop yachts
>
>
>
> Hey everyone
>
> As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a
> message from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my
> vessel and tack their fee on top of the sale price.
>
>
>
> Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable?
> Anything I should know about them good or bad?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kevin
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Pop yachts

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone
As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a
message from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my
vessel and tack their fee on top of the sale price.

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable?
Anything I should know about them good or bad?

Thanks!
Kevin
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List C 34 for sale 17k

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
We've finally decided to post our C 34 up for sale. We've only had her 4
years but we've had some good times on her. Family grew a little more and
priorities have changed. My son's go-kart racing schedule has taken a lot
of time away from the boat. So it's time for some new owners to take her
on.

You can find the listing here: https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/75209

Let me know what you think and if you know anyone in the market.

Thanks!
Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhy's Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
___

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Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Good points Francois, I have meant to take a good look at the prop and
probably do need to send it off for reconditioning.

I know the bottom is a little dirty and so is the prop. But even when
everything was freshly painted I still had this issue. It starts up very
easily which makes me think that I'm running it at a decent load.

Is there a way to determine the reliability and accuracy of the Tach?

On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 9:30 AM Francois Rivard 
wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> In addition to making sure the transmission is fully engaged (We had that
> issue too, for me, it was solved with a simple cable adjustment), it sounds
> like you should jump in the water and take a good look at your prop. What
> you need to do is grab the blades and wiggle them against the folding axis.
> So, not following the folding movement, the other axis -> back and forth.
> If the tip moves more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch the hub and blades need a
> rebuild.
>
> The Martecs only go so long before needing a rebuild which consists of
> reaming the pivot axis hole and installing a larger diameter pivot shaft.
> It sounds like a big deal but it's not: Last time I had it done Martec did
> it for $80.00 plus shipping.
>
> The 3GM30F (I have one on my boat) is a small displacement engine (950 CC)
> and by diesel standards: A High revver. It needs to cruise between 2800 and
> 3000 rpm and should run about 3400 rpm flat out.  If it's in good shape and
> it can't achieve that something is amiss: Too much pitch on the prop /
> dirty and draggy bottom  / combination of both.
>
> When I had my prop redone Martec sold me higher pitch blades saying it
> would "Run better"  It didn't. All I got was cavitation and vibrations.
> Going back to the original blades solved the issue.  Yes, the blades with
> more pitch were pitted (Obvious sign of cavitation), they looked like they
> were infested with little crustaceans that don't exist in a lake.
>
> When Yanmar says you should run the engine at those RPM they are not
> kidding.  Prior owners of my boat ran it at low rpm too often and turned
> the engine into a "Hard Starter" (What the local mechanics called it) as
> not enough load and RPM caused excessive carbon deposits / fouled the
> injectors / messed-up the whole thing.  it was literally a  5-10 minutes
> battle to get the engine running on the first start of the weekend every
> time we used the boat when we first got it.
>
> I "fixed" the issue by running it at prescribed RPM / running it wide open
> for at least 10-15 mins every weekend / using Diesel Kleen Power service
> injector cleaner.  It took over 20 gallons to really make a difference but
> now the engine starts within a few seconds every time when cold and
> immediately fires-up for the rest of the weekend.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks John. I'll definitely have to look at that next time we are out. Not
sure if it's related but our RPM's don't get up to the manuals recommended
range either. I'm not sure if it's the Tach isn't reading right, or the
engine itself just won't get up there. I can only really get it up to maybe
~2200-2400 rpms according to tach. I want to say the manual says to get it
up to 3k?

I did get down on Wednesday to try it out in the slip with more fuel. I
first ran it without engaging the prop at ~1800-2000 rpms (according to the
tach) for a good 5-10 mins and didn't hear any abnormal noises. Then I
engaged the prop and ran again at ~1800 rpms for another 10-15 mins and
again no abnormal noises. So maybe it was just dirty/low fuel with all the
rocking and rolling around stirring it up.

I did notice at higher rpms the vibration was minimal, at lower rpms it
does seem to vibrate quite a bit. I'm assuming that is normal.

Josh, What do you mean by backlash? Just a large jump or something to cause
more vibration?

Thanks everyone,
Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 12:05 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Have Yanmar 3GM and Kanzaki transmission.  Had similar issue of only one
> blade opening after sailing, boat shaking and continuing problem after
> trying varying speeds, reverse / forward etc.  Worked fine if starting from
> dead stop.  Not excessive wear on blade pins.  In our case turned out to be
> worn / polished cones in transmission.  Seems an earlier rebuild was not
> done correctly, resulting in shaft not getting fully engaged.  Diagnosed by
> watching prop shaft as crew engaged in gear at idle, then slowly increase
> throttle.  Shaft rpm’s did not increase corresponding to engine.  Would
> occasionally “grab” when higher engine rpm’s were applied.  Pulled
> transmission (not that hard), sent to expert on Yanmar / Kanzaki
> transmissions (VERY important), had the unit back in a week, reinstalled
> all is well.  Some pointers picked up along the way.  1) In our case the
> fitting attaching the shifting cable to the shift lever on the transmission
> is a double spring push/pull fitting which must be adjusted so when in
> either forward or reverse there is additional movement possible on the
> binnacle.  We attach the fitting to the inner hole of the lever.
> Lubricating spring is normal maintenance each year.  2)  The mounts are OK
> provided you can get a finger between the base and top plates.  3)  Check
> alignment
>
>
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
>
>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 27, 2018 10:46 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound
>
>
>
> Pretty sure it's a martec, folding 2-blade. I try to power up and it
> vibrates like crazy. I power down to try and get it to reset so that I
> don't damage anything with it vibrating so bad. Then I try again. If I
> rotate the shaft manually I can hear each blade folding open but for some
> reason it is tough to open it after sailing for a bit.
>
>
>
> Coming out of the slip it opens without a problem.
>
>
>
> The sounds came this time though while already under power and the prop
> was open.
>
> On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:27 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I’m curious. What kind of prop do you have that requires you to slow down
> to get it to open. Most folding ones ask for more speed to get the blades
> to open. Non opening would produce lots of vibration, which would get lots
> of noise as the engine bounces around on (particularly) old motor mounts.
> Shake the motor.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> Flex-o-fold geared
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 26, 2018 8:05 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound
>
>
>
> Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I
> didn't put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I
> didn't see any water in it either.
>
>
>
> Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine
> mounts though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the
> mounts look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have?
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
>
>
> Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fre

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Pretty sure it's a martec, folding 2-blade. I try to power up and it
vibrates like crazy. I power down to try and get it to reset so that I
don't damage anything with it vibrating so bad. Then I try again. If I
rotate the shaft manually I can hear each blade folding open but for some
reason it is tough to open it after sailing for a bit.

Coming out of the slip it opens without a problem.

The sounds came this time though while already under power and the prop was
open.

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:27 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m curious. What kind of prop do you have that requires you to slow down
> to get it to open. Most folding ones ask for more speed to get the blades
> to open. Non opening would produce lots of vibration, which would get lots
> of noise as the engine bounces around on (particularly) old motor mounts.
> Shake the motor.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> Flex-o-fold geared
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 26, 2018 8:05 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound
>
>
>
> Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I
> didn't put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I
> didn't see any water in it either.
>
>
>
> Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine
> mounts though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the
> mounts look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have?
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
>
>
> Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get
> back to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the
> line/water in the line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a
> lot of backlash in the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch
> plate springs can bang.  If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it
> can allow the engine to bang around pretty good too.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
>
>
> Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past
> Wednesday for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar
> 3GMF would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might
> know what could have caused it.
>
>
>
> When it happened:
>
> * We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
> down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
> didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
> everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
> Like it was running out of fuel.
>
> * We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed
> us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me
> it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced
> power again and it immediately went away.
>
>
>
> Conditions:
>
> * At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
>
> * Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power
> boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
>
> * At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I
> had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.
>
>
>
> Observations:
>
> * I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
>
> * No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
>
> * Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
> in the bottom but not much.
>
> * When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.
>
>
>
> Thoughts/Questions:
>
> * Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
>
> * Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If
> that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
> cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
> not opening.
>
> * I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the
> undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of
> stresses on the prop.
>
>
>
> Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
> immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong.

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Yea I did that today and started it up and it sounded fine. However I
didn't put it in gear or take it out of the slip. The racor was full and I
didn't see any water in it either.

Now it does vibrate pretty good under operation. I looked at the engine
mounts though and none seemed to be cracked or anything. What should the
mounts look/feel like?  How much vibration while running should it have?

On Sat, May 26, 2018, 6:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> Fill the fuel tank with 6 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel, try it out, and get
> back to us.  Check your racor filter for air.  Low fuel/air in the
> line/water in the line can all cause rough operation.  These Yanmars have a
> lot of backlash in the engine and when you get rough operations the clutch
> plate springs can bang.  If you have a loose/broken/soft engine mount it
> can allow the engine to bang around pretty good too.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2018, 2:30 PM Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>> Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past
>> Wednesday for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar
>> 3GMF would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might
>> know what could have caused it.
>>
>> When it happened:
>> * We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
>> down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
>> didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
>> everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
>> Like it was running out of fuel.
>> * We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to
>> speed us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again.
>> To me it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately
>> reduced power again and it immediately went away.
>>
>> Conditions:
>> * At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
>> * Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of
>> power boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
>> * At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and
>> I had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.
>>
>> Observations:
>> * I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
>> * No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
>> * Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
>> in the bottom but not much.
>> * When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.
>>
>> Thoughts/Questions:
>> * Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
>> * Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly?
>> If that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
>> cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
>> not opening.
>> * I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally
>> the undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because
>> of stresses on the prop.
>>
>> Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
>> immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
>> throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
>> of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
>> oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.
>>
>> I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
>> meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
>> would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?
>>
>> Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.
>>
>> Kevin Paxton
>> '82 34 #473
>> Japhys Spirit
>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

 C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>> the removed hose?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
>> in the top?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
>> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
>> in there and doing it's thing...
>>
>>
>>
>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
>> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
>> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
>> adhered to the hull.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>
>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>>
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
>> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
>> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
>> was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>> drain hoses.
>>
>>
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>>
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>> them to budge.
>>
>>
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
>> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
>> cockpit drains?
>>
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>>
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Breakaweigh
>>
>> C
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the l

Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey Everyone,

Well we were lucky enough to be able to take out our 34 this past Wednesday
for the Blue Angels show in Annapolis. On our way back our Yanmar 3GMF
would occasionally make a knocking sound. I'm hoping you guys might know
what could have caused it.

When it happened:
* We were about to enter into the mouth of the Magothy and I was taking
down the main. My wife had the helm and yelled up saying that something
didn't sound right with the engine. She throttled down and when I got back
everything sounded ok. She said that it sounded like it was going to die.
Like it was running out of fuel.
* We kept it running slowly for a bit without issue. Then I tried to speed
us up again. After about 5-10 mins it started making the noise again. To me
it sounded like a loud knocking or banging sound. I immediately reduced
power again and it immediately went away.

Conditions:
* At the time it started occurring we had about 1/8 of a tank of fuel.
* Heavy, choppy waves for a large portion of our trip due to lots of power
boats. However, at the time it occurred, seas were calm.
* At start up after we sailed for a bit the prop had trouble opening and I
had to reduce power a couple of times to get it to open.

Observations:
* I didn't see anything incorrect or worrysome during operation.
* No leaking oil, fuel, or water.
* Racor water separator doesn't show any water in the bowl. A little gunk
in the bottom but not much.
* When power was reduced, everything sounded normal and operated normal.

Thoughts/Questions:
* Could low fuel/dirty fuel/water in fuel make this happen?
* Could this be more of a vibration from the prop not opening properly? If
that's the case, could it be indicative of something in the strut or
cutlass bearing? We have in the past had A LOT of problems with the prop
not opening.
* I did notice that during operation on the way back that occasionally the
undulation of the waves caused some stress. I'm assuming just because of
stresses on the prop.

Today I filled up the tank and started it up in the slip. It started
immediately and didn't sound like anything was wrong. I brought the
throttle up and down and everything sounds absolutely fine. So I'm at a bit
of a loss as to what to check/do. I do know that I still need to change the
oil and I am planning on changing the fuel filters as well.

I did notice that I am able to see the notch in the prop shaft where it
meets the gearbox. There does not seem to be anything on the shaft that
would indicate that it shifted at all though. Is this normal?

Would love some help from some of the yanmar experts on here please.

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
___

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Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan,
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
> was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I actually had the same problem just with one of my forward seacocks. It
will break loose, but it will take some time. I was at it for a couple
hours at least. I didn't want to rip it off due to them being so difficult
to remove without destroying things. The one thing I will say is don't bang
on the handle that is attached. Take that one off and put on a big wrench
and bang on that instead. Also, it is a tapered bronze seacock, I think I
did end up taking off the nut and washer from the one side and try to tap
it sideways a bit. But be careful with it cause it's easy to damage the
threads. I ended up cutting off the very tip that I had damaged in that
process.

IMHO I like the tapered bronze seacocks much better than the newer ones
that you can find out there these days.

This has a good write up as well
https://www.passagemaker.com/technical/seacocks.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:58 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat
> them etc to disassemble and rebuild??
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matti
> Airas via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matti Airas
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular
> conditions, you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to
> contain the leak.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Matti
>
>
>
> On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
>
>
> photos on google drive:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
>
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
>
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
>
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
>
>
> What should I do?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I haven't used mine since we bought it 3-4 years ago. But my wife and I are
thinking of selling and upgrading, so I'm concerned about resale value if I
don't get it fixed first.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 6:44 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ditto
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 9:21 PM, G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the
> adjustable babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the
> beginning of the season and then at some random time during the summer
> someone kicks the clutch, and eventually I discover that it isn't
> tensioned.
>
> Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and
> actively use the baby stay.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby
> stay to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary
> on your boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed
> in a Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely
> requires it you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if
> your spreaders are not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more
> like aluminum telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby
> stay notwithstanding. My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively
> bendy mast. The spreaders are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans
> to ever take her seriously off-shore and I sail/race in the protected
> waters of the NC sounds and the PITA the baby stay is in tacking upwind and
> removing it for flying the kite, my sailmaker recommend it's removal, which
> I did and have never looked back. Now if I planned to go offshore, I would
> put it back on board for the SOLE reason of preventing mast pumping fore
> and aft--that is one gravity storm I prefer to miss!
> Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use
> mandatory but in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize
> mast pumping fore and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in
> protected waters and  have never missed it (but the attachment below and
> rod as well as the rolled up stay are kept on board anyway!
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then
> attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth
> area. I don't have a track on mine.
>
> If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a
> lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's
> left if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much
> glass I would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.
>
> I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded
> together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?
>
> Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's
> in the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring,
>> and dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it.
>> Would serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but
>> look around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today
>> on a new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.
>>
>> (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water
>> line in v berth.
>>
>> 2 cents
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Chuck, et al,
>>>
>>> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about
>>> assuming that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At
>>> least that is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front
>>> of the keel” means.
>>>
>>> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate
>>> that the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod ri

Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then
attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth
area. I don't have a track on mine.

If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a
lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's
left if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much
glass I would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.

I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded
together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?

Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in
the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and
> dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would
> serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look
> around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on a
> new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo.
>
> (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line
> in v berth.
>
> 2 cents
>
> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Chuck, et al,
>>
>> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about
>> assuming that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At
>> least that is my take-away from your description of it being “far in front
>> of the keel” means.
>>
>> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate
>> that the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The rod
>> descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads (perpendicular to
>> the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the central stringer. The
>> load is not carried forward but rather resides at the rear of the traveler
>> track.
>>
>> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As
>> I recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
>>
>> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to
>> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2017, at 6:07 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>>
>> I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front
>> of the keel.  I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
>> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
>>
>>
>> That's how it is on my 34R.  On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
>> stainless bracket that is thru bolted to a stringer.   A short piece of rod
>> carries the load from the track down to the hull stringer.
>>
>>
>> I suggest you pull up the floor around the hole and look in there?
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, M
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks John,

That's what I was afraid of. Sounds like this is not going to necessarily
be an easy fix.
Just so I make sure I understand what your saying.

   - The stud is believed to be attached directly to the keel.
   - If that is true, then the shaft of the stud is probably 3+ inches
   through the hull and into the keel.
   - Possible fix would be to drill out the hole, tap the new hole and try
   to thread a new stud in its place.
   - Re seal the hole with epoxy and filler?

If it's directly attached to the keel, would threading a new hole be strong
enough? How far down should I drill it out?
I don't have exact measurements but the stud itself looks to be almost 1/2"
thick. Where can I find something that large? I can only seem to find
lifeline studs so far.

I also can't seem to find any information on this kind of thing online
anywhere. Any suggestions on where to look?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Tue, Oct 24, 2017 at 8:59 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin
>
>
>
> Sorry to see this situation but as with most things boat, all it takes is
> money to fix things.  Obviously some water got into the stub recess and
> corroded the stub itself.  Pretty impressive to cause the stud to crack
> apart.  FWIW, we consider the baby stay an integral part of the rig and its
> integrity as it prevents the mast pumping – with the added benefit of
> helping to shape the mainsail.
>
>
>
> Not 100% sure, but it would make structural sense the stud is threaded
> into the keel itself.  Otherwise the upward pull would be like trying to
> separate the keel from the hull stub.  I do know the keel sump is about 3
> inches thick at its forward edge.  Some careful measurements both inside
> and outside might be in order.  I will check our 34 dimensions when next
> there in a week or so.  In any event, it looks like a job best handled on
> the hard – remove the remaining stud, rethread the hole and reattach a new
> stud.  Seal appropriately.
>
>
>
> Best
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34 (hull 464)
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 24, 2017 8:15 AM
> *To:* cnc-list Cnc-List
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton
> *Subject:* Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken
> this past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat
> (~3-4 years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke
> sometime in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down
> into the hole and it seems to have rusted away.
>
>
>
> 1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard
> rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or
> if there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?
>
> 2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?
>
> 3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or
> am I going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?
>
>
>
> Here are some photos for reference.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Kevin Paxton
>
> '82 34 #473
>
> Japhys Spirit
>
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Baby Stay Hull Stud

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
I noticed that our baby stay stud that attaches to the hull was broken this
past weekend. I haven't used the baby stay since we've gotten the boat
(~3-4 years ago). But I know it was previously attached. It seems it broke
sometime in the last month or so. It looks like water may have gotten down
into the hole and it seems to have rusted away.

1. Any ideas on it's actual shape and size? It looks to me like a standard
rigging stud, just fairly thick. But I have no idea how it was attached, or
if there was a mounting plate or anything that was glassed in to the hull?
2. Replacements? Anywhere I can find it?
3. How do I re-mount it? Is this something I can do while in the water? Or
am I going to have to dig something out and re-bed the whole thing?

Here are some photos for reference.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/104c_WRGp5_HCtd4GugDWbI8x96faZjEFSg/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a2KxDYLuZkHMvqg4JLqBBLxrnznGlI7wRg/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H39DlvaqaiM1mwf8bCz-pu9WoPGzmeSu4Q/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sgCnY_SpTw5gkoOjHk21Yp0-lgfjdgjpjw/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10enub0yr-OfrLbfdpeNC3UTjGTgpBX_wUA/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d4lj_XnK39SYJLaGANr5tAeF-BV_KYMVqg/view?usp=sharing

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing Cabin Sole - 35MkIII

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Did this last year on our 34'. Dave and Mike are spot on with everything.
Definitely tape the lines where you will be cutting to protect the veneer.
I also used a circular saw, table saw, jig saw and a router. Used a hand
planner for final tweaking of the cuts.

My new lines were not the same width as the old but it wasn't much of an
issue. When you trace out the templates it isn't too hard to line
everything up.

One thing I did that I didn't see mentioned was to drill all holes before
applying any epoxy. I also epoxied the whole thing to seal it in
completely, then finished with epifanes. I used West system 105/207. The
207 is a clear hardener that won't mess up the top finish.  I did about 3-4
coats of each. A foam roller for the epoxy and foam brushes for the
varnish. I tried the cheapo chip brushes but continuously got stray
bristles everywhere.

The epoxy if I remember correctly you didn't want it to dry completely
between coats.
The varnish I wet sanded in between coats. Gradually getting higher in grit
between each.

Try to control dust as much as possible. Do this in a clean area where
there isn't much traffic. Or surround it all by plastic to prevent anything
from getting into it.

It was definitely a long, tedious process. But it was definitely worth it.
Our old sole was chipping and so deteriorated. But once this went in, it
was like it was a new boat.

Kevin Paxton
82' 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Sep 27, 2017, 7:05 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jonathan,
>
> I don’t have much to add to what Mike has said but his is pretty good
> advice. I’ve replaced the cabin sole on “Ronin” twice. You should need two
> 4’x8’ pieces of teak and holly plywood. I suspect that it will be 3/4” just
> like our 37’. As Mike said, get your wallet out…
>
> I used a router for the final edging to size. Like Mike, I used a
> “Skillsaw” for the long straight edges and a Bosch jig-saw for smaller cuts
> into corners. I kept the dimensions at least 1/4” larger than the original
> flooring layout.
>
> I used the old flooring as a template and router guide, with attendant
> problems
> 
> to produce the final product. West System epoxy
>  
> for
> sides and backs. The first set that I built lasted about 12-14 years but
> moisture will infiltrate over time, especially if the holes for screwing
> the flooring in are dry. I used gloss Awlwood for surfacing, finished off
> with a standard satin finish varnish. The first time I did this job I
> finished with a gloss finish. I decided over time that I preferred satin.
>
> One thing to keep in mind: The original teak and holly that C used in my
> 1982 model was NOT the same as what is currently being sold. The new teak
> and holly plywood has wider parallel widths.
>
> One thing is for sure, when you are done it will look tremendous!
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Sep 27, 2017, at 12:58 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Jonathan
>
> I just completed this project in the Spring of 2016.  The Frers 33 is not
> the same boat as the C 35-III but a lot of the techniques for this job
> are similar so I will answer a bit of what I can to some of your questions.
>
> First be prepared for sticker shock.  I purchased a single 4x8 sheet of
> 3/4 inch teak and holly and it was over $600 CAD.
>
> 1a) Lining up.  I took out all of the existing pieces and took them home.
> When I traced out and before cutting the new pieces I lined up the holly
> lines with those of the pieces being replaced with the assumption that it
> would line up the same as the old sole.  It did.  I think the first step
> will be to ensure your current sole does in fact have the strips lined up.
>
> 1b) Number of pieces. Try an inexpensive piece of 4x8 pressboard or
> paneling or something similar that is 1/4 inch thick.  When I bought my
> sheet of teak and Holly it came with something like this to protect the
> surface during transport.  Once you have this lay out the pieces of old
> sole on top and trace them out.  You can then turn it over to trace out the
> remaining pieces on the back.  Is kind of like a jigsaw puzzle but will
> give you a pretty clear picture how many pieces of sole material are
> needed.  If you use a couple of these 1/4 4 x 8 sheets you could also cut
> out the traced pieces and use them to test fit in your boat as I did before
> cutting the expensive teak and holly.  One thing I encountered was that my
> jigsaw fitting had to be amended a bit when I laid the old sole pieces atop
> the new sole to account for the lining up of holly strips.
>
> 2) Tools.  I am certain that others have better suggestions for tool but I
> used a circular saw for my straight cuts 

Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I got 2 sheets for my 34' Had quite a bit extra but it was a good thing. I
had messed up on one of the pieces but had plenty left over to try again.
Still have about a half a sheet left.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:25 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve always had to buy two sheets for the cabin soles on my 37’ each time
> I did it. I suspect that the MK III has almost as much surface area….
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how
> many sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire
> cabin sole?
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> ___
>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Selling our 34

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Just giving a heads up that we will probably be selling our 34 in the
coming months. We will be trying to upgrade to more of a cruising boat that
will fit my family of 6 a bit better.

Highlights:
* New/Used 130% North headsail this season in great shape (6oz Dacron Tri
Radial w/ Poly rope)
* North Main in great shape
* 2 x symmetrical spinnaker
* Yanmar 3GM (no problems starting)
* i50 tridata installed ~2015
* 2 x Exide 31MDC batteries  new 2016
* Bottom painted Summer 2016
* New head 2017
* New plumbing 2016 incl fresh water pump

I wanted to give you all the first shot at it since I know it will go to a
good home.

Is there anyone that may be interested? It is located in Pasadena, MD.

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
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Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Doing an overnight at broad creek off the magothy tonight with the whole
family. First time for us. Should be exciting!

Kevin
C 34
Cornfield creek, Pasadena, MD

On Sun, Sep 3, 2017, 2:57 PM Eric Frank via CnC-List 
wrote:

> David,
>   Planning to sail from Mattapoisett to Point Judith on Thursday, then on
> to Greenport on Friday.  A bit worried about the weather, bur we will see.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat's Paw
> C 35 Mk II
>
> On Sep 3, 2017, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>  Original message 
> From: David via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>
> Date: 9/1/17 2:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: CNC CNC  >>
> Cc: David  >>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
>
> Edgartown to Block island to Shelter Island to Greenport to Newport hence
> home to Marion, MA
>
> As long as the cruising gods allow me this year.
>
> C & C 40-2
> Corsair.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List '82 C 34'

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Just realized that maybe one of you have been a previous owner of my boat.
So I figured I'd ask.

I have pictures that show the name of the boat was previously Chardonnay
out of New Bern, North Carolina. I'm not sure of the purchase date from
that owner to bring it up to MD and renamed to Japhy's Spirit. But it was
raced on the Magothy River out of Cape St Claire before we purchased her
and took her to Cornfield Creek off the Magothy.

It's always fun to learn more of the history of boats and what they've been
through.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
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Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Ronald,
I'd love to see pics on that too. That is one of our biggest complaints
with our 34' not enough airflow through the main cabin.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, MD

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 2:00 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can you share your pictures with me?
>
> Neil
> 1982 C 32
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of RONALD
> CASCIATO via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 27, 2017 1:54:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* RONALD CASCIATO
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights
>
> Mark,
> Your boat is now 40 years old.you might want to consider not replacing
> 40 year old parts and methods with the same 40 year old stuff
>
> 15 years ago, I replaced my 1977 ..38 ports with new Lewmar opening
> ports...with screens included
> The openings on mine were about 1/8" smaller and it was a no brainer go
> enlarge them a bit .the result is a nice clean .modern look and
> functioning ports
>
> Pictures available on request.
>
> Ron C.
>
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App
>
> -Original Message-
>
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: msmit...@columbus.rr.com
> Sent: 2017-07-26 9:06:12 PM
> Subject: Stus-List I need help with portlights
>
>
> Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style
> aluminum framed portlights?
> I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by
> the PO and I don't think they were
> done correctly, so I don't have a reference to go by to do it right.  Are
> there any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
> fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing
> should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the
> window construction so I can do it right).
> I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these
> archives.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Separation between engine

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

When I initially put a solid piece of plywood to cover the gap one day the
temperature warning lamp lit up on the control panel. That's when I decided
to drill a couple holes in the plywood. I've been nervous to actually have
the plywood in place at all since that day as well.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2017 at 8:03 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A few of you have mention that you have netting to separate the engine and
> lazerette.  Does the engine need the airflow from the lazerette for
> cooling?   The engines are usually raw water or fresh water cooled as
> opposed to air cooled.   I was just curious?   I have a 36 and have had a
> few items fall onto the shaft and like others mentioned burned a bit of
> plastic.   Fortunately lines are on the outboard side away from the engine
> area.  It is one of those things I would like to do as well, but have more
> pressing projects.
>
> Adam hayden
> C 36
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I've tried a piece of plywood. It initially overheated the engine one
night. So I drilled a few holes in the plywood with a hole-saw. That helps,
but I don't feel it's a good solution. The cargo net idea might work
better.

Was it just left open like this from the factory or was there something
that originally covered that gap?

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 1:53 PM David via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Did that to allow lots of air flow to engine
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Tim Sippel via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 6/7/17 12:49 (GMT-04:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Sippel <tim.sip...@rci.rogers.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
>
> I have a 33-2  my original idea was to buy a automotive cargo net and put
> it place to keep things in place.
>
> Never got around to it , I simply put the hatch board in place to prevent
> things from spilling .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Tim Sippel*
>
>
>
> *C 33mkii   Matico*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 7, 2017 11:58 AM
> *To:* C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2
>
>
>
> I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way
> to separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had
> anything fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen.
> I'm definitely interested in suggestions from others.
>
>
>
>
>
> Kevin Paxton
>
> '82 34 #473
>
> Japhys Spirit
>
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine
> other than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This
> really limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce
> into the shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the
> burning plastic smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every
> once in a while the sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's
> 29-2 and it has a nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan
> is to fabricate a removable separator from wire shelving but would like to
> get the group's suggestions on other options.
>
>
>
> Cheers Doug
>
> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
>
> Frenchman's Bay
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
>
>
>
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels
> se fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I have this exact same issue just on a 34. I'd also like to find some way
to separate the lazarette from the engine bay. I luckily have not had
anything fall in there before, but I'm terrified of when it will happen.
I'm definitely interested in suggestions from others.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Jun 7, 2017 at 11:50 AM doug.welch--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine
> other than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This
> really limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce
> into the shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the
> burning plastic smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every
> once in a while the sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's
> 29-2 and it has a nice removable panel that looks original. My current plan
> is to fabricate a removable separator from wire shelving but would like to
> get the group's suggestions on other options.
>
> Cheers Doug
> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b
> Frenchman's Bay
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

They do that too I'm pretty sure. I had them do a survey of my rigging and
they came out to me.

On Tue, May 16, 2017, 8:30 AM Jim  wrote:

> Thanks Kevin. That's one I saw. Unlike you, I will need some to travel to
> the boat since need someone to do some work on the forestay and furling
> systems.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 15, 2017, at 1:40 PM, Kevin Paxton  wrote:
>
> I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty
> satisfied with their service.
> https://theriggingco.com/
>
> On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi group:
>>
>> I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I
>> reached out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who
>> have a great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will
>> be able to get my repairs done and use my boat.
>>
>> There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5
>> hours away,  but I don't know who to contact.
>>
>> Anybody on this list have a recommendation?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jim
>> S/V Strong Tower
>> C 29-1
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for recommendation for a good rigger

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty
satisfied with their service.
https://theriggingco.com/

On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi group:
>
> I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I
> reached out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who
> have a great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will
> be able to get my repairs done and use my boat.
>
> There are a bunch of riggers based out of Annapolis, which is about 1.5
> hours away,  but I don't know who to contact.
>
> Anybody on this list have a recommendation?
>
> Thanks
> Jim
> S/V Strong Tower
> C 29-1
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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Re: Stus-List Electrical help please

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the help everyone. Finally got around to checking it all again.
Got it fixed.
The positive and negative wires that the fan came with we're both white.
I'm guessing for cosmetics. Somehow I wired them backwards when connecting
it to the fan itself. So I had a negative charge on the multimeter.
Switched them around and it turned on.
That's the first time I've ever done that. Can't believe it either.

Thanks again,

Kevin

On Sun, Apr 30, 2017, 2:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You mentioned that you are not an electrical expert so I apologize if this
> line of questions and comments seem condescending.  It's not intentional.
> Where are you hooking up the ground or black wire?  There should be a
> ground bus near-ish to the breakers.  That's your negative.  All of the
> other Black (or yellow) wires will be tying into this bus bar and a thick
> black wire will be attached which leads to the battery negative terminal.
>
> Each breaker will probably have one side which is tied to all the other
> breakers.  Sometimes this is a solid copper bar connecting between them.
> At the end of the copper bar you'll have a thick red wire which leads to
> the battery positive terminal.  In the same way you directly connected the
> fan to the battery you should be able to directly connect the fan to the
> red bus and the black bus.  If that doesn't work then you have bigger
> problems and you'll likely find that none of your loads work
>
> Perminently attach the black wire for your fan to the black bus with the
> correct ring terminal - crimped tightly.  Now on the breaker, attach the
> red wire to the terminal opposite of the red bus with and properly crimped
> and insulated ring terminal.  Ensure that the breaker is on.  The fan
> should work.  If not then your breaker may be bad.  Flip the breaker a
> couple of times and ensure that it is fully engaged.  One way will spring
> open/off the other way will latch closed/on.
>
> If that doesn't work then it is sounding more and more like your breaker
> is bad.  Try a different breaker or test for voltage between the output
> terminal and the ground/black bus.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2017 10:56 AM, "Kevin Paxton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm trying to install some cabin fans. (
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/caframo--sirocco-cabin-fans--P012_361_002_507
> ).
> Amperage High: 0.31 Amps
> Medium: 0.24 Amps
> Low: 0.14 Amps
>
> I wired it all up yesterday to my breaker panel and when trying to turn it
> on, nothing happened. I then took it off the wall and connected it directly
> to the battery, and it worked just fine. I then tried to connect to
> directly to the feed line of the breaker panel and it didn't work.
>
> I'm not an electrical expert but I would think connecting it the way I did
> to the breaker panel would not have a large voltage drop. I was using 16awg
> from the breaker to the mounting location. I might be a little low on the
> gauge of wire for that length I admit. That was my first guess. But
> connecting to the panel line feed directly still didn't do anything and
> that baffled me.
>
> Any ideas on what could be going wrong? The batteries are new last year.
> My battery meter was saying approx 70% charge capacity when doing all of
> this. The cabin lights and other electronics were working while I was
> trying to do this too.
>
> I'm at a complete loss here.
>
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>
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> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical help please

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey Rich, thanks for those steps. I will definitely check the breaker
itself as you described. I did however try to connect it to the input side
of the breaker directly with nothing happening. So even if the breaker is
bad, it was out of the circuit. I definitely need to find out what voltage
I'm getting at the breaker panel though.

I'll check it with the multimeter hopefully today if I have time.

Kevin

On Sun, Apr 30, 2017, 11:41 AM Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin.
>
> I suggest the following steps:
>
> 1. Use a decent digital voltmeter to test the circuit as follows. If you
> don’t have one, head off to the store with at least $25.00 in your hot
> little hands and buy one. It will be very useful.
> 2. Make sure the panel breaker feeding the fan is turned on.
> 3. Using the meter, check for battery voltage between the output
> connection on the breaker feeding the fan and ground.
> 4. If there is no voltage on the output of the breaker, check the input
> side of the breaker to make sure it is getting power. You should now know
> if the breaker is good or not. Replace if needed or move the fan wire to
> another known good breaker.
> 5. Check the connections on the wire feeding your fan. Are they crimped
> properly? If in doubt, redo them.
> 6. If you have determined that electricity is present at the feed end of
> the fan wire and the fan is still not working, measure across the
> connections at the fan both with the fan switch turned on and off. There
> should be voltage present. If not, or if the voltage drops drastically when
> the fan switch is turned on, check your connections and the wire you
> installed carefully.
> 7. You should have found the problem by the end of step 6.
>
> There may be some shaky connections in the fan itself that may have caused
> it to run at the battery and not when installed. Wiggle the wires….?
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rich.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2017, at 11:55, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm trying to install some cabin fans. (
> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/caframo--sirocco-cabin-fans--P012_361_002_507
> ).
> Amperage High: 0.31 Amps
> Medium: 0.24 Amps
> Low: 0.14 Amps
>
> I wired it all up yesterday to my breaker panel and when trying to turn it
> on, nothing happened. I then took it off the wall and connected it directly
> to the battery, and it worked just fine. I then tried to connect to
> directly to the feed line of the breaker panel and it didn't work.
>
> I'm not an electrical expert but I would think connecting it the way I did
> to the breaker panel would not have a large voltage drop. I was using 16awg
> from the breaker to the mounting location. I might be a little low on the
> gauge of wire for that length I admit. That was my first guess. But
> connecting to the panel line feed directly still didn't do anything and
> that baffled me.
>
> Any ideas on what could be going wrong? The batteries are new last year.
> My battery meter was saying approx 70% charge capacity when doing all of
> this. The cabin lights and other electronics were working while I was
> trying to do this too.
>
> I'm at a complete loss here.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Electrical help please

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I'm trying to install some cabin fans. (
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/caframo--sirocco-cabin-fans--P012_361_002_507
).
Amperage High: 0.31 Amps
Medium: 0.24 Amps
Low: 0.14 Amps

I wired it all up yesterday to my breaker panel and when trying to turn it
on, nothing happened. I then took it off the wall and connected it directly
to the battery, and it worked just fine. I then tried to connect to
directly to the feed line of the breaker panel and it didn't work.

I'm not an electrical expert but I would think connecting it the way I did
to the breaker panel would not have a large voltage drop. I was using 16awg
from the breaker to the mounting location. I might be a little low on the
gauge of wire for that length I admit. That was my first guess. But
connecting to the panel line feed directly still didn't do anything and
that baffled me.

Any ideas on what could be going wrong? The batteries are new last year. My
battery meter was saying approx 70% charge capacity when doing all of this.
The cabin lights and other electronics were working while I was trying to
do this too.

I'm at a complete loss here.
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Ed,
I got the Jabsco compact and was actually concerned about the size of it as
well. I'm debating on switching the side of the pump as well. Did it gain
you that much room?

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 10:21 AM Edward Levert <weeselev...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Kevin:
>
> I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger
> bolts shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper.
> Also, I was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by
> reversing the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall
> forward of the head prohibited from raising the seat.
>
> Ed
> Briar Patch
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone,
>> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
>> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
>> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
>> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
>> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
>> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
>> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
>> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
>> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>>
>> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
>> new toilet to it?
>>
>> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
>> old holes? If so, with what?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Kevin Paxton
>> '82 34 #473
>> Japhys Spirit
>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.
That makes it a lot simpler. Relieved to hear. :-)



Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:15 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe it is the same on the 34.  I recall replacing the toilet as Neil
> described below.
>
> *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, April 17, 2017 9:06 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher <njgallag...@optonline.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question
>
> Kevin,
>
> Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was
> mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru
> bolts, that hold the toilet down.  The "studs" are called hanger bolts,
> they have a wood-screw thread on one end, and a machine thread on the
> other, with the wood screw end going into the platform.  I filled the old
> holes with epoxy, and drilled and screwed in the new hanger bolts.
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-5-16-in-18-tpi-x-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hanger-Bolt-10-Pack-44948/204775370?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c=CKvV9JXFq9MCFdmCswodRvgHZQ=aw.ds
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
> On 4/17/2017 8:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>
> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
> new toilet to it?
>
> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
> old holes? If so, with what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so. Last
time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed that
it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding it
in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I
will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to
figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall
panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically
when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break
something if I don't have to. :-)

Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
new toilet to it?

Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
old holes? If so, with what?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Kids entertainment

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone!
Totally forgot about Uno, Yahtzee and the other classics. Been trying to
teach them some basic card games like war but that doesn't last too long.
Think we will be looking at getting a simple laptop and trying to rig up a
mount for it for movies. I definitely don't want them on electronics while
out, but a movie would be beneficial when things get a little haywire for
the wife and me. Family time was one of the main reasons for getting the
boat in the first place.
We've tried fishing, but I'm not in any way skilled with that. I think we
need to change some of our lures out to get any kind of success there.

I am trying to teach the oldest things and get her involved. I do need to
start bringing my 5 yr old son into it as well. He's starting to ask to go
sailing now too so that's a good sign.

My wife is not a sailor and I'm still trying to convince her of the
benefits and quality time and experiences that can be had. So far it's been
mainly me sailing and her taking care of the kids. So there hasn't been
much in the way of GOOD experiences so far. We are going to try our first
overnight this year just us first. Then bring the kids on another trip.
Fingers crossed it goes smoothly.

Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Kevin

On Wed, Apr 12, 2017, 9:04 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I should have noted: I held off on the monitor installation when my kids
> were little for the reasons being expressed.  My kids are all in their
> teens
> now.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Dave via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2017 8:58 PM
> To: Kevin Paxton
> Cc: Dave ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Kids entertainment
>
> My kids are older  podcasts (like 'the moth') or radio dramas, new and
> old.  The kids rarely experience storytelling in this way, and it is a
> looked-forward-to experience before bed time on the boat.  Kerosene lamp
> only of course!
> (I save the podcasts to my iPad which connects via Bluetooth to the
> stereo...)
> I'm sure there are similar options for younger kids.
>
> Dave.
>
> Agreed on lego as well, and of course reading for older ones.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 12, 2017, at 8:03 PM, Kevin Paxton 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hey everyone,
> > We are looking for ideas for kids entertainment on our 34'. We have 3
> > young kids (19mo, 2, and 5) and 1 preteen (12).  What have you all done
> to
> > get them involved and also entertained during sails?
> >
> > We are also looking for ideas and set ups on showing movies when things
> > get a little crazy and we need a break. What kind of setups do you all
> > have?  TV size, portable, fixed, DVD/Blu-ray, power, mounting etc?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Kevin
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Kids entertainment

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
We are looking for ideas for kids entertainment on our 34'. We have 3 young
kids (19mo, 2, and 5) and 1 preteen (12).  What have you all done to get
them involved and also entertained during sails?

We are also looking for ideas and set ups on showing movies when things get
a little crazy and we need a break. What kind of setups do you all have?
TV size, portable, fixed, DVD/Blu-ray, power, mounting etc?

Thanks,
Kevin
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Throwing this back out there in case anyone missed it.

The prices are negotiable. I listed the price that Bacon's would sell it
for. They have a 50% fee so I would have only gotten half of that.

Thanks

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 8:12 PM Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com> wrote:

> If anyone was interested in seeing pictures of the sails I listed the
> other day.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByfhZSW8NL8BLXZfcjhMYXZodms
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017, 9:54 PM Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Chuck.
>
> If anyone is interested I am trying to get rid of 2 of the headsails of
> the 5 that I got with the purchase of our '81 34. I recently took them all
> to Bacons Sails in annapolis to help me sort out what I should keep and
> what I should consign or trash. These are the 2 that they said they could
> try to consign if I chose to do so.
>
> The first is a Mylar Racing #1 (~150% for an I of 14'). Very good
> condition. There is a little bit of moisture starting in some of the
> stitching and Bacons suggested that I try to get it cleaned and sealed if I
> were to keep it. I really liked this sail but it's a bit too large for the
> roller furling I have on board. I don't want to have to hank on a sail this
> large every time we go out either.
> Measurements: 43' 8" x 42' x 22' 4"
> 3/16" luff tape
> Bacons said they would probably consign it at ~950-1000.
>
> I also have a lightweight Genoa (~140% for an I of 14') that has writings
> on it suggesting it was new in '79. Bacons said it was approximately 4oz
> Dacron.
> Measurements: 43' 11"x 40' 4" x 22'
> 3/16" luff tape.
> No suncover.
> some stains, but still in decent shape.
> Bacons would consign for ~400-600.
>
> Like mentioned above, both have a 3/16" luff tape so they will work with a
> roller furling foil. However, they were too long to actually be used with
> mine, which is why I am parting ways with them.
>
> The previous owner definitely raced the boat before he got health issues.
> I could not tell you usage stats for either since I haven't really used
> them extensively. I did use the Mylar one a few times and I would keep it
> if I could, but I'd rather something that fits better that I can leave on
> all the time.
>
> Price wise, I'm up for offers. I did mention what Bacons would probably
> sell it for as a starting range. I don't mind passing on a deal, but please
> keep in mind, I'm also trying to offset the costs of a semi-new/new sail
> myself.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help! I'll definitely be looking to some of the
> donation options you all mentioned for the other ones.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:00 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> To optimize your return, you may want to list what you have right here on
> the C email list.  Put together a list of what size, (luff, leech, foot),
> material and weight of the sailcloth, general condition, and any work that
> would be needed for the sail to be usable.  Also let folks know if the
> sails were designed to work with roller furling.   Perhaps another owner of
> a 34 (or 35 Mk 1) is lurking in background waiting for a good deal on one
> of your headsails. and weighing against what you may gain from selling it
> through Bacon’s (still not a bad option, certainly to someone not wanting
> to haggle or hassle with the shipping of a sail to heaven knows where..)
> price it accordingly to make it a “good deal” for all parties concerned.
>
>
>
> I just checked rig dimensions but it looks as if your “I” dimension is
> about 2’ too long for my boat…
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton kpax...@paxdesigns.com,
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.
>
>
>
> Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
> better option?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>

Stus-List Shower Sump

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
I'm having trouble finding a decent solution for the shower sump in our 34.
The pump died on me last year and I'm trying to find a replacement system
that makes sense. I'm intrigued by the Whale Gulper IC system but I don't
know if I can put the sensor or even a drain into the bottom pan. Currently
it has a bronze round strainer that sucks the water up through a hose that
lies on the bottom of the pan and through the base of the sink cabinet. I
don't recall seeing a check valve to prevent water from going back into the
pan either.

This is the system I was looking at.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234226|2234234=1612525

What have you all done for sump solutions? Does anyone know what kind of
clearance there is between the base of the pan and the hull? Could
something like the IC drain system work in that area?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

If anyone was interested in seeing pictures of the sails I listed the other
day.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByfhZSW8NL8BLXZfcjhMYXZodms

On Mon, Mar 27, 2017, 9:54 PM Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com> wrote:

> Thanks Chuck.
>
> If anyone is interested I am trying to get rid of 2 of the headsails of
> the 5 that I got with the purchase of our '81 34. I recently took them all
> to Bacons Sails in annapolis to help me sort out what I should keep and
> what I should consign or trash. These are the 2 that they said they could
> try to consign if I chose to do so.
>
> The first is a Mylar Racing #1 (~150% for an I of 14'). Very good
> condition. There is a little bit of moisture starting in some of the
> stitching and Bacons suggested that I try to get it cleaned and sealed if I
> were to keep it. I really liked this sail but it's a bit too large for the
> roller furling I have on board. I don't want to have to hank on a sail this
> large every time we go out either.
> Measurements: 43' 8" x 42' x 22' 4"
> 3/16" luff tape
> Bacons said they would probably consign it at ~950-1000.
>
> I also have a lightweight Genoa (~140% for an I of 14') that has writings
> on it suggesting it was new in '79. Bacons said it was approximately 4oz
> Dacron.
> Measurements: 43' 11"x 40' 4" x 22'
> 3/16" luff tape.
> No suncover.
> some stains, but still in decent shape.
> Bacons would consign for ~400-600.
>
> Like mentioned above, both have a 3/16" luff tape so they will work with a
> roller furling foil. However, they were too long to actually be used with
> mine, which is why I am parting ways with them.
>
> The previous owner definitely raced the boat before he got health issues.
> I could not tell you usage stats for either since I haven't really used
> them extensively. I did use the Mylar one a few times and I would keep it
> if I could, but I'd rather something that fits better that I can leave on
> all the time.
>
> Price wise, I'm up for offers. I did mention what Bacons would probably
> sell it for as a starting range. I don't mind passing on a deal, but please
> keep in mind, I'm also trying to offset the costs of a semi-new/new sail
> myself.
>
> Thanks everyone for your help! I'll definitely be looking to some of the
> donation options you all mentioned for the other ones.
>
> Kevin
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:00 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> To optimize your return, you may want to list what you have right here on
> the C email list.  Put together a list of what size, (luff, leech, foot),
> material and weight of the sailcloth, general condition, and any work that
> would be needed for the sail to be usable.  Also let folks know if the
> sails were designed to work with roller furling.   Perhaps another owner of
> a 34 (or 35 Mk 1) is lurking in background waiting for a good deal on one
> of your headsails. and weighing against what you may gain from selling it
> through Bacon’s (still not a bad option, certainly to someone not wanting
> to haggle or hassle with the shipping of a sail to heaven knows where..)
> price it accordingly to make it a “good deal” for all parties concerned.
>
>
>
> I just checked rig dimensions but it looks as if your “I” dimension is
> about 2’ too long for my boat…
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton kpax...@paxdesigns.com,
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.
>
>
>
> Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
> better option?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List 

Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck.

If anyone is interested I am trying to get rid of 2 of the headsails of the
5 that I got with the purchase of our '81 34. I recently took them all to
Bacons Sails in annapolis to help me sort out what I should keep and what I
should consign or trash. These are the 2 that they said they could try to
consign if I chose to do so.

The first is a Mylar Racing #1 (~150% for an I of 14'). Very good
condition. There is a little bit of moisture starting in some of the
stitching and Bacons suggested that I try to get it cleaned and sealed if I
were to keep it. I really liked this sail but it's a bit too large for the
roller furling I have on board. I don't want to have to hank on a sail this
large every time we go out either.
Measurements: 43' 8" x 42' x 22' 4"
3/16" luff tape
Bacons said they would probably consign it at ~950-1000.

I also have a lightweight Genoa (~140% for an I of 14') that has writings
on it suggesting it was new in '79. Bacons said it was approximately 4oz
Dacron.
Measurements: 43' 11"x 40' 4" x 22'
3/16" luff tape.
No suncover.
some stains, but still in decent shape.
Bacons would consign for ~400-600.

Like mentioned above, both have a 3/16" luff tape so they will work with a
roller furling foil. However, they were too long to actually be used with
mine, which is why I am parting ways with them.

The previous owner definitely raced the boat before he got health issues. I
could not tell you usage stats for either since I haven't really used them
extensively. I did use the Mylar one a few times and I would keep it if I
could, but I'd rather something that fits better that I can leave on all
the time.

Price wise, I'm up for offers. I did mention what Bacons would probably
sell it for as a starting range. I don't mind passing on a deal, but please
keep in mind, I'm also trying to offset the costs of a semi-new/new sail
myself.

Thanks everyone for your help! I'll definitely be looking to some of the
donation options you all mentioned for the other ones.

Kevin

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD



On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 4:00 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Kevin,
>
> To optimize your return, you may want to list what you have right here on
> the C email list.  Put together a list of what size, (luff, leech, foot),
> material and weight of the sailcloth, general condition, and any work that
> would be needed for the sail to be usable.  Also let folks know if the
> sails were designed to work with roller furling.   Perhaps another owner of
> a 34 (or 35 Mk 1) is lurking in background waiting for a good deal on one
> of your headsails. and weighing against what you may gain from selling it
> through Bacon’s (still not a bad option, certainly to someone not wanting
> to haggle or hassle with the shipping of a sail to heaven knows where..)
> price it accordingly to make it a “good deal” for all parties concerned.
>
>
>
> I just checked rig dimensions but it looks as if your “I” dimension is
> about 2’ too long for my boat…
>
> Cheers,
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, March 27, 2017 2:46 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton kpax...@paxdesigns.com,
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
>
>
> Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.
>
>
>
> Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
> better option?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
> Sailvation Army?
>
> Typoed from my iPhone
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> Alera 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> O 206.463.9200 <(206)%20463-9200>
> C 305.409.3660 <(305)%20409-3660>
> Skype - thombusc
>
>
>
> &

Re: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. The wife likes the idea of a new bag.

Anyone fairly successful selling decent quality sails? Or is Consigning a
better option?

Thanks,
Kevin

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Re-sail in Annapolis will give you a duffel bag.
>
> Joel
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:02 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> www.seabags.com
>
> If your sails are large enough they will make you a tote bag for free.  We
> had a great experience with them
>
>
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia
> Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
>
> Sailvation Army?
>
> Typoed from my iPhone
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> Alera 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> O 206.463.9200 <(206)%20463-9200>
> C 305.409.3660 <(305)%20409-3660>
> Skype - thombusc
>
>
>
> > On Mar 25, 2017, at 8:03 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 02:26:16 +
> > From: Kevin Paxton 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hey everyone,
> > I have a number of head sails that I need to get rid of. I was
> > wondering if any one knew of other consignment or places to sell used
> > sails to. I'm? in the Chesapeake Bay area and know of Bacon's. I was
> > actually there today having them take a look at them. But I was
> > wondering if there was anywhere else to get a second opinion on value
> > or a better deal than just 50% of sale price.
> >
> > A couple that need to be disposed of that aren't useful anymore as well.
> > Anywhere that may recycle or something besides just throwing away?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Kevin
> > -- next part -- An HTML atta
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Options for getting rid of sails

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
I have a number of head sails that I need to get rid of. I was wondering if
any one knew of other consignment or places to sell used sails to. I'm​ in
the Chesapeake Bay area and know of Bacon's. I was actually there today
having them take a look at them. But I was wondering if there was anywhere
else to get a second opinion on value or a better deal than just 50% of
sale price.

 A couple that need to be disposed of that aren't useful anymore as well.
Anywhere that may recycle or something besides just throwing away?

Thanks
Kevin
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I just saw something on sailing-anarchy that said that it's just the US
side of NavTec that is closing up.

On Tue, Feb 14, 2017 at 9:20 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm pretty sure that this isn't true. If it is someone need to tell the
> Emirates Americas Cup Team.
>
> The last two announcements on the Navtec website were that they were
> expanding their manufacturing capacity, and that they were discontinuing
> manufacturing of Norseman fittings. Can the it be that the discontinuation
> of Norseman fittings has morphed into "out of business"?
>
> Can anyone confirm Mike's information?
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike
> Brannon via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2017 8:06 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike Brannon 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.
>
> All. NAVTEC has gone out of business.   At the moment it looks like Hayn
> is trying to take up the slack.   You should be able to have the balls made
> by a local machinist however, I would look at changing the rigging to
> either newer style rod fittings or dyform.
>
> Mike
> Virginia Lee  93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> Sent from my iPad Mini
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Navtec back stay tensioner

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I have a NavTec tensioner as well, don't remember the specific model. Mine
was doing the same thing and supposedly you need special tools to fix them.
So a repair shop is the only option. Unfortunately they are expensive.

On Fri, Jan 13, 2017 at 9:46 AM John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Continuing in my saga to figure out why the tensioner does not hold, I
> have unscrewed every screw and bolt and guage. Nothing looks worn but I
> know that something being old and brittle could be the issue.
>
> It seems to me the tensioner drum itself has to come apart so you can get
> at the seals or o-ring at the bottom of the piston. I cannot see how to
> open this. Does anyone know how this comes apart?
>
> I have the Navtec 10 - 7 which is the square sided drum
>
> Thanks
>
> John on Enterprise
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Plumbing/now PEX tools?

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I did not use the SS clamps. I just used the SeaTech quick connect
fittings. The tools were too expensive for me to do it with the clamps. I
also don't think the pressure in the system requires that kind of security.
The SeaTech fittings are a little bulky, but it didn't take me too long to
get it all put together. Plus if anything fails, I don't need to go rent
the tool again. I have spares that I ordered initially, so a quick swap if
something goes wrong.

Kevin

On Wed, Jan 11, 2017 at 6:58 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Kevin,
>
> Did you use the SS cinch clamps and what kind of fittings, or just the
> John Guest fittings.  I watched a professional Plumber with an expansion
> tool slip this plastic collar over a fitting once, very quick and secure,
> and a much smaller installation than most of the Guest fittings.  He used a
> simple big hand powered expander, hum like this one
> http://www.supplyhouse.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q6295075-ProPEX-Hand-Expander-Tool-with-1-23-41-heads-2412000-p
> I was impressed.  I’m still watching and learning, but it looks like I
> could rent a tool and do a lot in a weekend, maybe. . .
>
> Cheers, Lee
>
> On Jan 11, 2017, at 4:33 30AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey Edd,
> I did mine this past season on my 34. It was fairly straightforward after
> all the planning. I bought everything through Freshwatersystems.com
> <http://freshwatersystems.com>. They had the most complete selection of
> SeaTech and PEX that I could find. Unfortunately the PEX tubing comes in
> rolls which made it a little bit more difficult than what straight pieces
> might gain you.
>
> They say PEX is flexible and can make somewhat tight turns, but I stuck to
> just using elbows for most everything. They have clips that are supposed to
> bend the tubing for a 90* turn at a safe radius, but those things were
> fairly flimsy. The biggest pain I had was trying to screw in the mounts for
> the tubing to secure it. I used the 1/2" CTS 35 series fittings with collet
> clips. They had the right size for just about all of the faucets and
> connections that I needed. I had to connect to my poly tank, water pump,
> galley sink faucet, fresh water foot pump, water heater, external hose
> inlet, and head faucet.
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Plumbing

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey Edd,
I did mine this past season on my 34. It was fairly straightforward after
all the planning. I bought everything through Freshwatersystems.com. They
had the most complete selection of SeaTech and PEX that I could find.
Unfortunately the PEX tubing comes in rolls which made it a little bit more
difficult than what straight pieces might gain you.

They say PEX is flexible and can make somewhat tight turns, but I stuck to
just using elbows for most everything. They have clips that are supposed to
bend the tubing for a 90* turn at a safe radius, but those things were
fairly flimsy. The biggest pain I had was trying to screw in the mounts for
the tubing to secure it. I used the 1/2" CTS 35 series fittings with collet
clips. They had the right size for just about all of the faucets and
connections that I needed. I had to connect to my poly tank, water pump,
galley sink faucet, fresh water foot pump, water heater, external hose
inlet, and head faucet.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 5:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Seeing a few articles and videos lately about people re-plumbing the fresh
> water system on their boats using the PEX red and blue piping and
> quick-connect fittings — and the crazy self-punishing jerk in me is
> wondering if I should take on the task to replace the 26 year-old plumbing
> on the Enterprise and be able to have fresh water/showers again.
>
> Has anyone done the whole re-plumbing thing? Any advice?
>
> There’s an awful lot of sinks and faucets on board . . . .
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the tips, I'll have to check it out more the next time I haul or
dive on it.

On Tue, Oct 25, 2016, 11:02 Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Make sure it's the prop.   I threw a ton of money at similar symptoms
> before learning that the transmission was slipping.  (bang bang bang in
> forward only, and intermittently, though progressively less so.)
> Pulled the gearbox and did the repair myself in an evening for less than
> $100 after replacing a lot of stuff.
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 11:43:15 +
> From: Kevin Paxton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Folding Prop won't open
> Message-ID:
> <
> caokrqryaxxaxcfer76uuybknzaogfkfydz-tktommg+pcys...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
> Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
> having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
> that you all are mentioning.
>
> I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
> sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
> fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
> with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
> Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.
>
> So far I've tried:
>
>- to come to a complete stop and try again
>- Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
>- short kick to full throttle.
>
>
> The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
> our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
> sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
> the clunk.
>
> Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
> from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
> the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Folding Prop won't open

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey guys, with all of the discussion on props it reminded me that I'm
having an issue with my 2 blade folding prop. Pretty sure it's the Martec
that you all are mentioning.

I continue to have issues with one blade not opening after we've been out
sailing. Once we drop the sails and go to engage the engine and prop it
fails to open one side and I get severe vibrations. Is this a normal thing
with these props? It truly makes me want to just get a fixed prop.
Unfortunately that's not in the budget right now though.

So far I've tried:

   - to come to a complete stop and try again
   - Kick it into reverse and then back to forward
   - short kick to full throttle.

The last time we were out nothing worked. We ended up limping along back to
our slip. Afterwards I checked it by rotating it from the inside and it
sounded like both blades would open when it was facing down because I heard
the clunk.

Occasionally it will open but it's not a first time thing. On departure
from the slip I don't have any issues, it's only when trying to reengage
the motor after a sail. It's really frustrating, any ideas?

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
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Re: Stus-List Potable water pump

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Just bought myself a Shurflo pump as well. Aqua King II, 3.0gpm. Have yet
to hook it up yet, still finishing up all of the plumbing. I'll let you
know how it goes though.

Kevin

On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 1:49 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred,
>
> Also highly recommend the Shurflo pumps.
>
> And Fred — make sure it’s fused correctly :P
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 19, 2016, at 1:42 PM, LKL via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> Just fixed a similar problem.  Replaced with a matching Shurflo Aqua King
> 3.0.  I have no problem hearing this pump.  Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> Lloyd Lippe
> Finesse
> 1985 Landfall 39
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 19, 2016 1:37 PM
> *To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Stus-List Potable water pump
>
> Hi, all — I tracked down a leak in my potable water system last weekend to
> an apparent split or leak in the diaphragm on the belt-driven (probably
> original…) pressure water pump on my LF38.  I could probably find a parts
> kit for this pump; but given its age, I’m thinking about replacing it with
> a new pump.  I’ve been looking at the Jabsco PAR-MAX line, specifically the
> PAR-MAX 2.9 or the PAR-MAX Plus 4.0.  Anybody have other suggestions for
> me?  I don’t want a super-quiet pump, as I want to be able to hear it run,
> especially when tanks go dry; but I’d like something that hammers less than
> the original pump.
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks Nate, I'll have to keep that in mind.



Dennis, that reasoning is part of why I'm asking the question in the first
place. Trying to see what people have been doing on theirs. I wouldn't mind
putting in inline filters at the POU but the gpm rating makes me think it
might adversely affect usage. I want decent quality water on board (if we
have to drink it we won't die or get sick) for cooking and showers and
washing hands. For drinking water, I was partly thinking a better filter
which removes bacteria and replacing the foot pump with a dedicated faucet
for drinking, but wasn't sure if others have done that or not and if they
wish they kept the foot pump.

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:35 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> before the pump. My sanitary routine is to leave the tank full, empty it
> on arrival at the boat (every week or two) and refill with fresh
> immediately. FYI practical sailor had an article on carbon filters a year
> or two ago and recommended the inexpensive home house filter rig, but went
> for a fancy high-performance special carbon filter. I've tried the cheap
> and readily available carbon filter off the store shelf ,and I've been
> happy. Water tastes OK from the tap now, and the coffee is immensely
> improved.
>
> Nate
>
> On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 8:27 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Nate,
>>
>> Did you put that before the pump or after? What do you put in your water
>> to keep it sanitary?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:12 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Re the filter, I have had good taste-improvement results from a quite
>>> inexpensive whole-house clear shell water filter, using carbon cartridges,
>>> bought from a big box home supply store. The goal was removing "tank
>>> taste", and it has worked well this first year. I plan to change cartridges
>>> each season, and need to remember that its one more thing to switch out and
>>> drain as part of winterizing, but that's easy. It came with pipe thread
>>> fittings, so adapters to PEX would be required. An example is:
>>>
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Advanced-Household-Water-Filtration-System-HDG2VS4/205582288
>>>
>>> Nate
>>> 1980 C 30-1 on the St. Croix River, WI
>>> 1994 Tartan 31 Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a
>>>> filtered drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not
>>>> completely sure if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what
>>>> type of water filters would be good for installing under the galley sink
>>>> and providing drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.
>>>>
>>>> I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
>>>> standard hot/cold water sink faucet.
>>>>
>>>> Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before
>>>> or after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
>>>> find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
>>>> tubing.
>>>>
>>>> As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using
>>>> 1/2" PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump,
>>>> and would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Kevin
>>>> '82 34 #473
>>>> Japhys Spirit
>>>>
>>>> ___
>>>>
>>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>>
>>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Nate,

Did you put that before the pump or after? What do you put in your water to
keep it sanitary?

Thanks,
Kevin

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:12 AM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Re the filter, I have had good taste-improvement results from a quite
> inexpensive whole-house clear shell water filter, using carbon cartridges,
> bought from a big box home supply store. The goal was removing "tank
> taste", and it has worked well this first year. I plan to change cartridges
> each season, and need to remember that its one more thing to switch out and
> drain as part of winterizing, but that's easy. It came with pipe thread
> fittings, so adapters to PEX would be required. An example is:
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Advanced-Household-Water-Filtration-System-HDG2VS4/205582288
>
> Nate
> 1980 C 30-1 on the St. Croix River, WI
> 1994 Tartan 31 Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior
>
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 10:21 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a
>> filtered drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not
>> completely sure if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what
>> type of water filters would be good for installing under the galley sink
>> and providing drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.
>>
>> I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
>> standard hot/cold water sink faucet.
>>
>> Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before or
>> after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
>> find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
>> tubing.
>>
>> As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using
>> 1/2" PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump,
>> and would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin
>> '82 34 #473
>> Japhys Spirit
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Filtered Fresh water

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Anyone ever remove the fresh water foot pump and instead install a filtered
drinking water faucet? I'm thinking of doing so but am not completely sure
if removing the foot pump is common or not. If not, what type of water
filters would be good for installing under the galley sink and providing
drinkable water on board without adding another faucet.

I currently have a fresh water foot pump, salt water foot pump, and
standard hot/cold water sink faucet.

Where would I put the filter as well? Before or after the pump, before or
after the water heater, one at each sink (galley/head)? I can't seem to
find decent inline filters that have good flow and fittings for 1/2" PEX
tubing.

As I said in an earlier email, I'm replumbing the entire system using 1/2"
PEX with SeaTech 35 series fittings, putting in a 3 GPM Shurflo pump, and
would like to add filtering to make sure the water is drinkable.

Thanks,
Kevin
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

My tank is under the port settee as well. However the pump was located
under the galley sink on the starboard side. So the tank outlets were
forward, then the tubing ran towards the galley. There was a T after it
entered that storage area which one way went to the foot pump the other to
the electrical pump. I don't know the history of the boat, so I don't know
if it originally started with just the foot pump. I'm the 3rd or 4th owner
I believe. I've thought about relocating it to where the tank is, however I
don't want to run a completely separate line to the foot pump.

I did just read somewhere though that the distance listed for self priming
pumps is actually only for vertical distance? Is this true? If that's the
case, then I don't have a problem. Vertically it will only be 6"-12" above
the height of the outlet on the tank.

Thanks,
Kevin

On Fri, Sep 9, 2016 at 11:24 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm trying to imagine how the pump is 7 or 8 feet from the tank. On my 32
> the 30 gallon tank is located under the port side settee. Tank is located
> aft in this storage space and pump is forward of tank. My boat did not
> originally have a pump at all (just foot pumps). I installed a jabsco just
> forward of the tank where the port is. If your tank is like mine, it can be
> positioned either forward in that storage space, or aft. In it's default
> orientation it's aft with port forward but I don't see why, if I needed to
> do what you are doing, I couldn't just slide the tank forward and locate
> the pump aft. Am I making sense? Again, not sure if your 34 is similar.
>
> Relocating ports on these plastic tanks is expensive work. I know because
> I had to have one of mine replaced.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Relocate Water Tank Fittings

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Anyone ever relocate the fittings for water tank in a 34? I am about to
take on re-plumbing the fresh water system and my new pump states to put it
within 6' of the tank. with it's current orientation, and where the old
pump was, it would be somewhere around the 7-8' distance from the tank.
Moving the draw line to the other side of the tank would shorten that
considerably. Do they make relocation kits for our tanks? I was going to
leave the vent and fill fittings where they are, just move the supply
fitting going to the pump.

Thanks,
Kevin
'82 34
Japhys Spirit
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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Ok, thanks. I'll go get some distilled water then.

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016, 16:33 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Never add acid to a battery  (unless you spilled some before). Water
> evaporates, acid does not.
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.
>
>
>  Original message ----
> From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 9/5/16 16:26 (GMT-05:00)
> To: "syerd...@gmail.com" <syerd...@gmail.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries
>
> One of them had low water. I have some extra sulfuric acid left from a
> motorcycle battery. Would that work to top it off?  I don't know what to do
> with this extra acid laying around.
>
> One battery, the one with low water has approx 4v left in it. The other
> has 1.8v. a different battery maintainer says they are ok and I'm trying to
> charge the low one first to see if it will do anything. Should I even be
> trying?  should I just replace both?
>
> On Mon, Sep 5, 2016, 16:01 syerd...@gmail.com <syerd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Ugh- forgot to edit the subject line. sorry all.
> Dave.
>
> Welcome.  Make sure you Check the water level in the cells, and then load
> test the batteries.
>
> Any good quality flooded, deep cycle marine style will work fine. Your
> 34 is similar in size to my 33-2 and given your desire to overnight and
> cruise a bit, you may be poised on the slippery slope that I negotiated
> this season.   I expect will find that the two battery arrangement as
> supplied is limiting,  (you protect half your deep-cycle capacity for
> starting)  and that any battery capacity upgrades (should you be thinking
> that way) are very limited by space.   (The guys here with multiple golf
> cart banks make me jealous).   It took me awhile to figure out how to
> optimize this (for my use, my boat,   ymmv). and I documented my thinking
> and upgrades here:
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
>
> How about a latin/English play on words - Pax Familia ?
>
> Dave, Windstar 33-2.
>
>
>
> essage: 2
>
> Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2016 16:39:01 +
> From: Kevin Paxton <kpax...@paxdesigns.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Marine Batteries
> Message-ID:
><caokrqrzluzhnarhzz3oue7rkk72lpk6fgtt+8+h2epy7m5d...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C 34
> a few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day sails
> so far with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get a
> little older. We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky enough
> to have a community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)
>
> Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since the
> last time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any way
> to salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on
> good batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to
> revive them?
>
>
> They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting them,
> but keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging. So
> I've been thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a
> true deep cycle for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do
> others have?
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Kevin
> '82 C 34 #473?
> Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is last
> name)
>
> -- next part --
>
>
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160905/126adcfd/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
>
>
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 128, Issue 25
> *
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

One of them had low water. I have some extra sulfuric acid left from a
motorcycle battery. Would that work to top it off?  I don't know what to do
with this extra acid laying around.

One battery, the one with low water has approx 4v left in it. The other has
1.8v. a different battery maintainer says they are ok and I'm trying to
charge the low one first to see if it will do anything. Should I even be
trying?  should I just replace both?

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016, 16:01 syerd...@gmail.com  wrote:

> Ugh- forgot to edit the subject line. sorry all.
> Dave.
>
> Welcome.  Make sure you Check the water level in the cells, and then load
> test the batteries.
>
> Any good quality flooded, deep cycle marine style will work fine. Your
> 34 is similar in size to my 33-2 and given your desire to overnight and
> cruise a bit, you may be poised on the slippery slope that I negotiated
> this season.   I expect will find that the two battery arrangement as
> supplied is limiting,  (you protect half your deep-cycle capacity for
> starting)  and that any battery capacity upgrades (should you be thinking
> that way) are very limited by space.   (The guys here with multiple golf
> cart banks make me jealous).   It took me awhile to figure out how to
> optimize this (for my use, my boat,   ymmv). and I documented my thinking
> and upgrades here:
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
>
> How about a latin/English play on words - Pax Familia ?
>
> Dave, Windstar 33-2.
>
>
>
> essage: 2
>
> Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2016 16:39:01 +
> From: Kevin Paxton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Marine Batteries
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C 34
> a few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day sails
> so far with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get a
> little older. We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky enough
> to have a community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)
>
> Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since the
> last time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any way
> to salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on
> good batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to
> revive them?
>
>
> They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting them,
> but keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging. So
> I've been thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a
> true deep cycle for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do
> others have?
>
> Thanks!!
>
> Kevin
> '82 C 34 #473?
> Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is last
> name)
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160905/126adcfd/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
>
>
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 128, Issue 25
> *
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks for the suggestions and information everyone!

Think I'll probably go the AutoZone Duralast option. Don't want to dump a
lot of money in to it right now and finances are a little tight. I will
however probably get a hardwired charger/maintainer for them to try and
keep them in optimal condition. One question though, They are currently in
battery boxes under the quarter berth with a hole drilled into the engine
compartment. Is this safe for flooded batteries? Should they be relocated?
If so, I have no clue where would be a good safe place with enough space
for them.

On Mon, Sep 5, 2016, 14:52 Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I've been using Delco Voyagers for nearly 2 decades and swear by them.  I
> get 7-8 years service life with a good smart charger.
>
> Delco Voyagers are widely respected in the bass fishing arena also.
>
> A 24 series cranks my Universal 25XPB diesel just fine but I'd stick with
> 27's.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 11:39 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C
>> 34 a few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day
>> sails so far with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get
>> a little older. We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky
>> enough to have a community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)
>>
>> Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since
>> the last time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any
>> way to salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on
>> good batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to
>> revive them?
>>
>>
>> They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting
>> them, but keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging.
>> So I've been thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a
>> true deep cycle for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do
>> others have?
>>
>> Thanks!!
>>
>> Kevin
>> '82 C 34 #473?
>> Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is
>> last name)
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Marine Batteries

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone. Just recently subscribed to the list. Purchased a '82 C 34
a few years ago. Been sailing it around the Chesapeake on brief day sails
so far with the aim to have a few overnighters soon once the kids get a
little older. We are based in Pasadena up Cornfield Creek. I'm lucky enough
to have a community dock with slips that are real cheap. :-)

Anyways, both of my group 27 batteries got completely discharged since the
last time I checked them. So I need to either determine if there is any way
to salvage them or decide on a new set of batteries. Any suggestions on
good batteries or ones to stay away from? Is there any gain to trying to
revive them?


They power a Yanmar 3gm30f and I haven't had any issues with starting them,
but keeping them charged for any amount of time has been challenging. So
I've been thinking of getting one that is a dual purpose and the other a
true deep cycle for use as a house battery. What kind of combinations do
others have?

Thanks!!

Kevin
'82 C 34 #473?
Japhy's Spirit (needs a rename, thinking 6 Pax, family of 6 Paxton is last
name)
___

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