Hi Josh,
I'm late to this thread (haven't been checking list regularly). I have an
AutoProp. 18" 3-bladed, model # AP 3899 RH.
I would say we're moderately happy with it. It provides good power and we
can motor ~6 kts at 2000-2100 rpm (3HMF); 6.5 kts at 2200.
I wrote a post on it here a while ba
Thanks for the replies, sounds like I can use either 3/8" or 1/4". I'm
going with 3/8" (9mm) for the extra strength and so it will be flush with
the exterior hull surface. The actual sizes from Acrylite are in mm, I just
measured in inches out of habit.
I have one window pulled now (it came out qu
Adding one more reply to Fred's question -
For us removing the donut collar was very difficult. The set screws likely
had mangled some threads and this caused threads to seize / shear within
the collar when unscrewing it. Our collar appears to be stainless steel, so
definitely a difference from the
I used SuperLube, a white heavy duty synthetic grease -
https://www.super-lube.com/multi-purpose-synthetic-grease-with-syncolon-ptfe
Resistant to salt water. Has lots of other uses too.
+1 to Delrin for the bearing disc.
There's a grease fitting already in the rudder stock tube (mine had a green
I'm getting ready to do the windows project and have read the prior threads
about it (plus the helpful Boatworks youtube video).
When others did this project, on Landfall 38 or similar sized C&C's, did
you use 3/8" thickness or 1/4" on the new windows?
My existing windows are 3/8", thrubolted wit
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the ideas, lots of good ones!
> you wrote > * Edson sells a different radial drive which has a shorter
height. Replacing an existing with one of these would be costly but it
could free up shaft space for the tiller arm. One needs to check the specs
for the shorter radials and
That would be great if my worries are unfounded because it would save a lot
of work. :)
But I'm not so sure. Generally I like to defer to the advice of the
manufacturer - they're the designers, the experts, the engineers, after
all. Of course, I think Edson is being overly conservative to cover the
I know there was a thread about below-decks autopilots on the Landfall 38
where discussion ended up on "bolt it to the radial drive, reinforcing the
attachment point." (
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2018-May/200838.html )
I'm researching this now, with interest in installing
That's a good price, although there are many other 100w rigid panels around
that price range too - 3 different brands in the $100-115 range on Amazon.
The question is how well they will hold up and perform. The reviews seem
good. I wouldn't worry about optimizing the price of the panels though -
ot
Easy unless it's not - which I find is true of most boat projects.
Old boat, old mast, I found my clevis pin was quite stuck / seized and the
cover plate sheared off. My mast didn't have an opposing hole (not sure if
yours does).
I wrote about this in this blog post:
https://svviolethour.com/2017
Wow. That's $123,000 in today's dollars. (20k in 1971 = 123k today).
Important to compare real values, not nominal values - inflation over 47
years is very significant! Still not bad, a 35' production boat today goes
a bit more than that I think.
Would be interesting if anyone has a 1980's number
I couldn't help but chuckle that Jeanneau owners are claiming to have
invented / named this knot. It's just the halyard hitch with a different
finish. So perhaps it should be called halyard hitch, Jeanneau variant?
I use the standard halyard hitch which ends with the tail up:
https://www.netknots
Thanks all. Rick, that's the sort of nightmare story I'm hoping to avoid!
When you say corners were cut "on the exhaust elbow, hose routing, and the
siphon break" do you mean the prior engine had those things installed in a
poor manner, or that a siphon break wasn't installed?
I haven't heard from
For those that have one, do you know what kind you have? Vetus makes a few
- https://www.google.com/search?q=vetus+vented+loop - and there are the
Forespar Marelon ones. I read some of the Vetus ones require running a vent
line overboard or to a cockpit drain, or they leak water into the boat.
Al
Does anyone have a vented loop on their engine cooling water hose (between
the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow)? Do you think it's necessary,
and any regrets / things you would change? If you have one, where is it
mounted? (particularly for LF38 layout, but any C&C over 32' would probably
be
I've been using Starbrite nonskid deck cleaner (with PTEF) and it seems to
help.
The type of nonskid you have also matters though - sharp ridged nonskid
like KiwiGrip is very hard to keep clean.
There was a thread about this recently on CF:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=249
>
> From: Marek Dziedzic
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2017 20:09:55 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah
> I almost think that we give them too much attention
>
> Marek
>
>
Indeed. I was at the dentist today and when I mentioned I'm into sailing
I just did this project last week. Used SuperLube. (and yes, as Marek says
this is what Peggy Hall recommends - I borrowed her book from the library a
few weeks ago). The pump is smooth as butter now. You should be able to
push the handle with 2 fingers. I've used bowl additives before (oil or
West
Yikes. Is it a Perko like this one?
http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg
I'm having a hard time visualizing how a single bolt failure could result
in a hole big enough to outpace a 800 gph pump.
Sounds like one of the wing nut bolts broke, but the other one w
They just look a little green? I would not clean that. Bronze naturally
oxidizes, and the green discoloration is normal - its natural eventual
state. It could even be protective
(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bronze - "Typically
bronze only oxidizes superficially; once a copper oxide (eventually
be
I believe my transmission is 2.14:1. Not 100% sure, but when I had it
rebuilt two years ago I had someone check it and that's what they said it
was. Also I had considered replacement and they had 2.7:1's in stock but no
2.14:1.
Just curious where are you getting your new transmission? I had the
i
We have the 10' portabote too, and it seems to be the most popular. The 8'
is significantly smaller, but might be a good choice if you only intend to
have 2 people in it. The smaller the boat the easier it is to handle on
deck. I was surprised at how heavy the 10' is. I can "singlehand" assemble
an
I couldn't help but chuckle at your description - that's a perfect
description of several times when I really regretted towing the dinghy and
should have had it stowed (folding PortaBote, so it stows nicely inside the
shrouds).
In those kind of wave conditions I think the dinghy should be stowed.
It's very common to have spider web cracking in the gelcoat (and maybe into
the fiberglass) on old boats around the stanchions. It doesn't necessarily
mean water is getting into the core, but it's good to investigate, which it
sounds like you're doing.
Many surveyors will say they found voids (air
othing to be concerned about or does that
> indicate an issue with the bulkheads? They shouldn't easily compress at
> all, anyway.
>
> Best,
>
> Matti
>
> On 10 August 2017 at 21:43, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'v
That's a good idea, and not something I would've thought of probably. I had
already tried tightening the screws on the hinges, since sometimes those
loosen up.
The port side of my door (hinge side) has about 1/16" - 1/8" clearance, so
there's room to recess the hinges a bit. I'll have to form a re
The turning blocks on the mast
> pushed the collar down, deformed the cabin roof and bound up the head door.
>
> Rebuilt mast step solved issue.
>
> Your experience may be different.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Aug 10, 2017 at 1
I've had this (minor) issue over a year where we can't fully close the
v-berth door on our Landfall 38.
At first I thought it was just due to heat expansion of the wood in the
summer, but it started roughly after I tightened the main shrouds a couple
turns (due to masthead fall off in higher winds
I ordered a mast gate from mastgates.com this June before departing on our
summer cruise. I don't want to dissuade you from them yet because the jury
is still out (I'm working with Tom to hopefully get it to work) but I
haven't been able to make it usable yet.
The design and installation of the ma
Not sure how many CnC listers are following the svblackwatch blog, but I
just wanted to highlight they recently got to the Marquesas:
https://svblackwatch.wordpress.com/2017/06/01/marquesas-islands/
Congrats!!! That's a really awesome accomplishment.
-Patrick
On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 9:24 AM, Ada
Hi,
I did that just a few months ago! You're right that you need to be careful
about twisting the cover plate because it can shear off. I broke one that
way but fixed it by just drilling the cover plate back on to the mast. You
can read my blog posts about it here (search for sheaves):
https://svv
[Resend due to embedded photo (not mine) that caused list to auto-block due
to size]:
Oh, so your exterior screws were just wood screws screwed into the cabin
trunk? Is there coring there? (I'm hoping not). I'm skeptical of Don
Casey's theory that bolts or screws were used in surface mount
instal
Paul,
What did you do about the thru-bolt holes on the inside of your cabin? Did
you fill or cover those in any way? Are the leftover holes really ugly?
I had *thought* that the thru-bolted windows on my LF38 were a feature /
desirable attribute (for offshore strength) and that C&C had just don
Discussed on CruisersForum last week:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f2/what-to-do-with-old-sail-181547.html
On Sat, Mar 25, 2017 at 8:03 PM, wrote:
> From: Kevin Paxton
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2017 02:26:16 +
> Subject: Stus-List Options for gettin
Do you mean what was done around the rudder stock to prevent water
intrusion?
One suggestion I had from a surveyor was to just dremel out a small bevel
around it and inject a flexible epoxy like GFlex. That would be the
quick-and-dirty DIY fix.
But since I was already paying a fiberglasser (to re
When the yard did this for me last year, they just used a ~3" hole saw and
aimed for a couple inches aft of the rudder stock. You don't really need a
diagram because you know where the rudder stock is, and with a small amount
of luck will find it on the first try. Do the hole on the upper 1/3 of th
Here's how I do it:
https://svviolethour.com/2015/04/22/how-to-climb-the-mast-solo-part-2/
https://svviolethour.com/2015/02/28/cleaning-the-boat-climbing-the-mast/
(earlier post with my first attempt; part 2 above has more details)
There are many different ways to do it. One of my goals was doin
Just curious, why would you want to do 5 coats of Cetol followed by 3 coats
of Cetol Gloss?
The instructions on the can recommend 3 coats followed by 1 gloss, or 2
gloss if 1 gloss isn't satisfactory. But 8 coats is something I've only
ever heard of for varnish, and the lower # of coats required w
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=180436
Wow, that's a sad day for boats with rod rigging. Having one distributor /
manufacturer of rod isn't good for competitiveness and ease of
availability. My BSI order is going on 7 weeks now, and 2-3 months since we
first gave them initial
What do you mean by "did Navtec go to a different option because of the
dissimilar metals issue?" Different option than what?
The ball under the Navtang cap that you're referring to is actually a
"stemball washer". I assume you're referring to the cup-like washer that
seats below the stemball, in
... With no success. There was some white powder visible, sign of
>>> aluminum corrosion. I finally had success with white vinegar, injected with
>>> a syringe where I can, from the top of the deck and from below, and a
>>> soaked rag taped around the block. I repeated this p
ap
>> on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to
>> find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Bruno Lachance
>> Becassine, 1987 33mkII
>> New- Richmond, Qc.
>>
>>
Funny, I started this same project literally just today. Must be the season
for mast-out work.
I also read the Internet boards where a few people talked up LMR-400.
Decide to go with Ancor RG213, because it's the same size as what I'm
replacing, and it sounds like LMR-400 is overkill for marine VH
I saw that this morning too. I wouldn't say it looks sketchy necessarily,
just your typical bought-at-auction project boat. Transients were living on
it for a couple years, and the engine might be shot. It's sad what ends up
happening to good boats sometimes.
The latest pictures he posted (open th
te everything with a small tap
> on the bolt, clean and reassemble with good quality butyl. I was happy to
> find that the core was not exposed around the chainplate.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Becassine, 1987 33mkII
> New- Richmond, Qc.
>
>
> Envoyé de mon i
Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded
here: https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/
Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm
Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probab
Yeah, it's stories like that that made me seriously consider getting a
manual adjuster instead. Unfortunately not many are made anymore as far as
I can tell. Wichard makes manual adjusters, but they're just as expensive
as a new hydraulic (and I couldn't figure out if they're easily available).
-P
I'm replacing my adjuster currently. Sailtec 10-SI to Sailtec 10-Long. The
old one leaked a good deal of oil last spring and still works but loses
pressure over time (holds pretty well in our currently cold weather, but
not in warmer weather). Just about any rigger can rebuild a Navtec
adjuster. Sa
I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.
Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the
I'm going through this process right now (see the list archive for my email
thread asking questions about it last month). It's a pretty complex topic,
so not something easily explained holistically in an email. I'm working on
a blog post (svviolethour.com) about it but there's so much it will requi
So it was a solar charge controller that started the electrical fire.
Interesting since the list was just recently discussing solar panels (and
I'm planning to do that project in the spring).
Either the controller was faulty, overloaded, or improperly installed. Hard
to speculate on which it was..
Ack, I forgot to change the email subject from the digest. Sorry! Retitling
so this mistake is not perpetuated.
-- Original mail: --
Thanks Rick. I did read your email (to this thread), and one from Apr 10
2014. I think that's it unless I missed one.
A wire conversion has only two tricky parts to
Thanks Rick. I did read your email (to this thread), and one from Apr 10
2014. I think that's it unless I missed one.
A wire conversion has only two tricky parts to it - the mast fittings, and
the spreader tips. So I'm trying to figure out more details about those.
There are a few things not clear
Ok, I've found out a lot more in the last 3 weeks, but am frustratingly no
closer to making a decision. All I've learned is that Navtec parts are
really expensive and complex. And that everyone I talk to disagrees with
the previous person (ie, even professional riggers don't agree on what is
recomm
Rick, did you do the rerig work yourself, or the rigger installed? Mast up,
or down?
On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 6:24 AM, wrote:
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Brass
> To:
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 23:12:43 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>
Right, I totally get the mast would need to be pulled if I were reheading.
Doing it one side at a time would take too long. I'm not planning to rehead
though. From what I've heard it seems like reheading only saves a moderate
percentage of money, and getting new rod gives me extra piece of mind tha
I'm considering doing a rerig this winter. There are no obvious problems,
but it's getting on 33 years now and would be nice for the peace of mind.
Does anyone know of any blogs / websites / emails that do sort of a step by
step guide to do-it-yourself rerigging?
I'd like to do it myself to save o
Oops - I didn't mean to turn this into an Apple vs Android debate! : ) But
I can't resist responding to a few of your points:
- It's not true that on Android you're locked in to one app store. There
are alternatives (most well-known of which is Amazon's app store):
https://www.androidpit.com/best-
I agree with you. If I had known Raymarine's love of proprietary,
lock-you-in, charge-as-much-as-they-please techniques, I probably wouldn't
have bought an i70 and wind instrument. (It's pretty astounding how much
they charge per foot for a backbone cable, and even the little plastic caps
you use
I have the Jabsco Par-Max 2.9. Installed 6 months ago when our older pump
died.
I've been happy with it. Works well and the install was easy.
It's about as noisy as our previous pump. Mounted under the galley sink,
there's no risk of not hearing it if it's cycling or running continuously
while onb
Congrats on the successful passage! I'm subscribed now and look forward to
more.
>From the project pics it looks like you did a lot in only a year. Too bad
the blog wasn't started earlier - would be great to hear about some of
those.
What kind of wind vane do you have? I saw it in the pictures but
My lower spreaders also each have a tiny crack at the trailing edge. The
crack is about 1/8" - 1/4", on the middle of the seam. My rig inspector
didn't seem at all concerned about it, and there were bigger issues to
tackle first. I'd have to see a picture to know how bad your's looks, but
my soluti
Are you sure? I talked to Trans Atlantic Diesels (who sells Hurth
transmissions) last year and they told me Hurth transmissions should not be
left in reverse while sailing. I told them the prop spins in neutral, and
they replied the prop should be allowed to freewheel in neutral, and not
sailed in
If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on
reconditioning it once you have it out).
Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway
because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the
deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good.
Yes but if your LF38 has no fuel tank under the radial drive, as on mine,
then there is room for a tiller arm I believe. A prior owner removed the
original tank and installed a 16g one in the bottom of the stbd lazarette.
Eventually I may need more fuel capacity and might have to reconsider the
bel
Paul did you use the white color of KiwiGrip for your's? Your blog said you
were unable to get white KiwiGrip in the winter, but what color did you use
then? It looks pretty white to me.
I'm going to KiwiGrip my cockpit soon, and it seems like white is the way
to go to match most consistently with
Have you also watched the engine mounts while in low rpm to see if it's
just excess vibration making the noise?
If you want to check the prop for snags without going for a cold water
swim, a GoPro on an extension stick works well. I've used this method
before to check the zincs.
-Patrick
1984 C&C
Thanks, it's definitely sounding like the way to go. I'm just extra
cautious when it comes to something enclosing a big hole in the boat. And I
like simple systems, and the PSS is definitely more complex than a
traditional stuffing box. But it sounds like PYI's 6 year recommendation is
just them be
Sorry for so many questions, but I bit off a bit much on this haul-out...
and I searched the list archives but didn't find much discussion of
alternate stuffing boxes.
My stuffing box is also seized and the packing needs to be replaced. On the
LF38 the stuffing box is under the engine oil pan (v-d
I'm looking into this now, so I'll let you know what I find. Hope to figure
something out by end of week.
Your rudder probably won't fall out if the shaft collar breaks off (the
quadrant or radial drive will hold it) but that would still be a bad thing
- the radial drive would probably fall a few
s big. I'll take the advice of
using a spacer behind the set screws when I reinstall. (looking into
getting a replacement collar nut now)
Here are some pics: https://goo.gl/photos/tcBkJny4uuqqFnRN9
On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 9:26 PM, wrote:
> *From: *"Patrick Davin via CnC-List"
Hmm, I'm afraid I don't see what you're saying. The pics might help. What
do you mean by "the table"? And he drilled a large diameter hole through
the entire rudder collar donut? That hole would go through the rudder stock
too. Or maybe the 37 has a different rudder attachment. The piece I'm
talkin
Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder now
is to fix the leaking. I observed weeping at last year's haul-out, drilled
drainage holes, and got about 1/2 cup of reddish rusty smelly water.
My Vancouver surveyor told me water in rudders of old boats is very common,
an
I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.
The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust
bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws
and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up
(enough that tha
Interesting. That's basically what I was wondering. I was looking for a
calculator, but I found
this: http://www.whsyc.org/Flooding/Flooding.html
A 1.5" hole 2 feet below waterline results in 62.5 gpm (per minute!) = 3750
gph. Even 4000 gph capacity wouldn't keep up with that, after accounting
for
Yeah, either carrots or potatoes. :) This is an idea from Yachting
Monthly's Crash Test Boat videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5PDuXvqL7c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUg3TUmnQBs
On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 1:10 PM, Robert Boyer wrote:
> Carrots Funny!
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days
I've been debating my bilge pump plan for a few months now, and having
trouble deciding. What have others here decided is sufficient pump
capacity?
I have two Rule 800s now and am considering upgrading one to an 1100 or
2000 gph, as a high water alarm. That will require upgrading the hose from
3/4
I used Aegis Marine Surveyors in Vancouver last year. Timothy McGivney and
his partner Trevor Salmon.
It wasn't cheap, but a little cheaper than Ken Rorison's quote with travel
(ferry)... well worth the money in the end and I felt they did a good job.
I didn't meet Timothy (I couldn't attend the in
Hey Andrew,
I'm in Seattle, work near the Fremont Bridge, and frequently bike by Lake
Union on my way home. If we can find a time I'd be happy to drop by
sometime - might be easier to get some ideas in person, and there's a lot
to cover.
Looks like you're at Affinity, just past Fremont Brewing, w
I'll also be doing Desolation Sound this summer, and likely further north.
June thru August, if we can get three months off. So there's a good chance
we will try to make the rendezvous August 5-7. Hard to say for sure now -
as they say, cruisers plans are written in sand at low tide. But we should
I finished installing the new hatch lenses this weekend. Thanks again Fred
for the effort you went to getting these made and shipped! Here are some
before + after photos showing how great they look:
https://goo.gl/photos/JZBXFFRNyUYRhWAD9
It took me 8 hours, about 4 for each window. But if you'r
You're right to worry, but with a good plan and advice the project is very
doable. The heater exhaust cap thru-deck hole has been a persistent source
of leaks on our boat, and the prior owner who installed it made some poor
choices (and some good ones - I don't blame him for the job not lasting
for
The C&C 43 had balsa core in vertical cockpit surfaces? That seems really
surprising. There's no core in the LF38 cockpit wall to the left of the
companionway, at least from what I observed removing an old Datamarine
display. It's about 1/4" of fiberglass.
If the 43 had coring in vertical cockpit
Mine is a Beckson "rain drain" opening port:
http://www.beckson.com/opening.html
It has "Beckson pat no 4095640" stamped on it (patent number) and is
approximately 14" x 3.75" interior dimensions.
I'm assuming you're talking about the cockpit window to port of the
companionway entrance, in the mos
There's no simple answer to this (it's something you may just have to find
your own preferences for) but the common answer is around 15 knots - or
wait till 20 knots, but you'll probably be compensating for over-canvasing
at that point (traveled way down, dumping wind, pinching up in gusts, etc).
Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as I
can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
identical product).
I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only m
Good timing on this topic, I just finished installing my new Garhauer
RV-20-1SL vang. Thinking about writing a blog post on it (svviolethour.com)
since I've been so happy with it so far (though haven't yet used it
sailing! Just installed 3 days ago).
It's the best deal in boating I've found so far
I'm surprised so many people on here are USCG documented. I thought USCG
documentation (as opposed to merely state registration) is mostly only
beneficial to those traveling internationally. (and not everyone commenting
travels internationally).
So if you don't travel outside of the US and Canada,
One thing to keep in mind is that at some point the surface area of calcium
chloride exposed becomes more important than how much volume/weight of it
you have. I've found a big tub of Damprid will eventually form a solid
layer at the top. At that point all the bulk dry salt under there is doing
you
Diesel doesn't vaporize easily, unlike gasoline. That's one of its big
advantages on boats, that it's non-volatile. It's good practice to shut
down the engine at the fuel dock anyway, but they're probably asking that
more as a general policy due to the gasoline boats they fill (or in case
some gaso
nyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 12:13 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Since we were talking blowers last week, I wonder why C&C installed marine
blowers even on boats that didn't have gas engines?
I just today removed the rusted out ignition-protected blower in the stern
of my boat, which looked original. It had been disabled a while ago by a
prior owner (had no hos
Since I just finished reading Nigel Calder's chapter on corrosion, I'll
take a crack at this.
Just speculating here, but do you have any other anodic metals that could
have been acting as anodes instead of your zincs before? Ex, if you had
the prop painted with zinc chromate, I believe that could
Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid
attachment.
C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they
thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid
hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because s
Ah, yes, your blog post has a good picture of one possible setup with a
rigid vang.
Doesn't the vang hit the mainsheet when you're on a port downwind tack?
I've had issues with even my non-rigid vang doing that, and it makes it
difficult to sheet the main in.
Good call on using the deck block for
I think I see what you're saying... a bit hard to visualize without
pictures. But it sounds like you moved the forwardmost deck lead to the
mast collar, and then from there to the boom you skipped / eliminated the
forward-most lead on the boom (where the line would normally go vertically
almost str
I'm thinking of getting a Garhauer rigid vang. Only problem - the dang
mainsheet block lead is in the way. It's mounted on deck in the standard
location a few inches behind the mast collar, then the main sheet runs
vertically up to a boom block. If I mount the boom vang to port of the main
sheet, i
$119 CAD is only $87 in US dollars! Plus, since you're a Washington
resident you can get the Edge card which is $76 USD for 1 day. That's only
$7 more than Steven's Pass at $69, and Whistler has a lot more terrain. The
5 hour drive is what deters me though. Stevens had 9" of powder yesterday,
real
Ok maybe this is a silly question, but what can a right angle grinder do
that the Fein multitool cannot? In other words why is the Fein second to
the angle grinder, when it looks to me like the Fein is a superset of angle
grinder functionality?
On Tue, Dec 8, 2015 at 5:11 PM, wrote:
> -
Good point about the engine heat / fumes. I hadn't even thought of that.
Definitely don't want to leave ventilation holes in this then. The storage
under the qtrberth shouldn't need ventilation anyway.
Thanks for the advice everyone! This project feels much more manageable
now.
-Patrick
On Tue,
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