Stus-List Re: Galley sink drain C 30 Mk1

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

On my 30 MK I (hull #79, 1972), the galley sink drain Ys into the starboard 
cockpit drain, but upstream from the seacock (which is actually a gate valve - 
bad, I know).  The Y is high enough that I don’t think it’s below waterline.

I’ll want to redo the drain someday because the seal from the sink to the pipe 
drips a bit.  But given how little I use the galley sink - mostly to catch 
empty beer cans thrown below from the cockpit - it’s not an urgent high 
priority project for me.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Feb 8, 2024, at 3:38 PM, Alexander Netherton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All 
> I have a C 30 Mk 1, a fine old boat that has a history of different owners. 
>  Recently, we had a very cold snap with temperatures hitting the – 12to – 16 
> range. A good stress test for the boat’s plumbing for sure.  To make a long 
> story short, I need to know how the galley sink drainage ought to be 
> configured on this boat.  You can read more for detail, or simply respond.  
> All information will be appreciated.
> 
> ….  In the aftermath of the cold snap, I found that there was some seepage 
> from the galley sink.  And there I found an odd configuration. The 1.5-inch 
> drain was stepped down to a 1-inch diameter hose that ran into the drainage 
> for the cockpit.  There a Y fitting was screwed into the seacock (a 1.5-inch 
> diameter) that allowed the 1-inch drainage from the sink to drain into that 
> seacock.  The lip onto which the 1-inch sink drain line attached itself was 
> pitifully short—about 1 inch, and below the water line. Not very safe and a 
> configuration that can not fully drain the sink. 
> 
> 
> 
> The upshot is that I have to change the galley sink drainage system. The C 
> 30 Mk 1 owners manual gives no details on this—but it does show that the 
> cockpit and galley sink drainage are separate systems.  The local chandlery 
> folk advise me to install a new  drainage thru-hull (with a gate valve) 
> between the bottom of the sink and the waterline, to ensure that it drains 
> properly.   But this is a wide margin leaving me without a precise idea of 
> where to put the thru-hull. And I am not sure whether I need an elbow under 
> the sink--or how that ought to be configured.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me how the gally sink drainage was handled by C at the 
> outset. Are there any specs or design principles that I could use to help me 
> pinpoint these positions or design the new system? 
> 
> Your help will be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Best,  Alex Netherton
> 
> Dulcibella, Nanaimo BC
> 
>   
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: going all pex

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

My daughter just dodged a bullet due to PEX plumbing.  The garage at her house 
was converted by a previous owner to a studio Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) 
that she rents out long term.  Whoever did the conversion plumbed the unit with 
PEX.

This past weekend we had an Arctic air mass sag down into Denver.  The 
temperature dropped 45℉ in 18 hours overnight Friday, bottoming out at -13℉ 
Saturday morning at 6am.  The subzero lows and single-digit highs lasted three 
more days.

The cold water supply line to the washing machine and hot water heater in the 
ADU froze somewhere.  On Monday I put some space heaters in strategic 
locations.  Yesterday afternoon the freeze thawed and hot water started flowing 
again.  And, here’s the best part: no sign of leakage.  Since PEX can expand a 
bit, it’s less prone to cracking when frozen than copper.  Otherwise it would 
have been a bigger mess and a bigger job.

I’ve never used PEX because I don’t know how, and I don’t have the tools.  
Whereas I’ve sweat-soldered plenty of copper.  But I’m starting to become a 
believer.  My travel trailer has all PEX plumbing.

Not that the above anecdote is all that relevant to plumbing in a boat - if 
things freeze in a boat, you’ve got potentially bigger problems, like cracked 
castings.  But I thought I’d share anyway.

Cheers,
Randy
SV Grenadine
C 30 K I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jan 16, 2024, at 9:39 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been going nuts with fresh water leaks lately. It seems like the ½” 
> hose has lost its flexibility over the decades, it is now rock hard. I can’t 
> get it off any barb, I have to cut it off and the hose is so stiff I can’t 
> get a leak-free connection anymore. I got out a spare role to replace it and 
> that stuff too is about as flexible as iron pipe, I guess I saving it for 30 
> years was not cost-effective ☹
> I never though of ½’ water hose as an expense before, but the stuff is 
> expensive now too! I think it is over $3/ft at West Marine and $1/foot off 
> Amazon for Chinese chemical-smelling hose. Certainly no one plumbing a house 
> is putting up with this, so I asked and the hardware store clerk turned me on 
> to PEX tubing. It is cheap, like $0.50 a foot, and is strong enough to freeze 
> and not burst. I got the special crimp tool and stainless crimp bands off 
> Amazon for $25 or so and a 12-pack of PEX to NPT fittings. I think it is time 
> for all the old hose to go.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Racing Shirt - Now just C shirts

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Is the C logo on the sleeve a patch, or embroidered?

Thanks,
Randy

> On Jan 4, 2024, at 5:38 PM, Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I stay away from just slapping the C logo on anything.  I’m trying to 
> reproduce actual C promotional items
> 
> Here is the Rugby shirts I plan to reproduce
> 
> Shop
> ghcarchives.com
> 
>  
> Shop
>  
> 
> ghcarchives.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> 
> www.ghcarchives.com
> www.candcyachts.com
> Motion Designs Limited
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Any thoughts (experience) on trailering?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

The guy from whom I purchased Grenadine (my 30 MK I) had bought a trailer 
before buying the boat.  He found the trailer in Missouri somewhere, if I 
recall correctly, and I don’t know how.  It’s a 2003 triple-axle Loadmaster 
capable of loading a 35’ sailboat weighing up to 11,000 pounds - the axles have 
5,000 pound GAWR and the trailer itself weighs about 4,000 pounds.  He then 
bought the boat in Traverse City, Michigan.  It weighs 9,000 pounds, for a 
total load of 13,000 pounds.  He and his dad fitted the bunks etc. to the 30 MK 
I hull; I don’t know the details there.  They towed the boat all the way from 
Traverse City to basically Durango, Colorado, with a 3/4 ton truck.  They had 
to replace a couple trailer tires on the way.

When I bought the boat, the trailer was part of the deal.  We cradled the mast 
on top of the boat.  And we towed it from Lake Navajo to Chatfield Reservoir, 
through the high Rockies including Wolf Creek Pass, on March 11th 2016 (the 
roads were dry).  We used a 3/4 ton HD truck with a diesel and towing package.  
I was sure to check all the specs on towing capacity, tongue weight, etc., and 
I added a trailer brake controller to the truck.  I wanted to use a 
weight-distributing anti-sway hitch, but the trailer’s design precluded that.  
Regardless, the tow home went very smoothly.

Grenadine’s beam is 10’ so she is a wide load in Colorado.  I had to get CDOT 
permits and display signs, flags, etc., but no escort cars were needed.  And I 
didn’t have any problem with clearing bridges, overhead wires, etc.  The 
highest part of the boat, even with the mast cradled on it, is the bow pulpit - 
and it’s lower than standard bridge height in Colorado and the US.

And since then, I trailer the boat every winter (because Chatfield Reservoir 
freezes over).  The marina closes on Halloween and opens April 1st.  The dry 
storage yard is one mile from the launch ramp, still inside the state park, and 
I don’t have to take the mast down inside the park.  My crew and I have gotten 
pretty practiced at launching and hauling out the 9,000-pound, 30-foot boat 
with the trailer.  But sometimes when hauling out it takes a couple tries to 
get it on the trailer correctly.

This summer, in preparation for campaigning the boat in Colorado, we completely 
overhauled the trailer: new bearings, brakes, and tires; completely replaced 
all wiring and lights, emergency breakaway switch and battery; new heavy-duty 
safety chains and bolts; completely replaced all bunks, built new and improved 
mast cradles atop the boat, etc.  The only things we didn’t replace were the 
axles, frame, and bunk stands.  We wanted to make certain that the trailer was 
100% reliable and solid before towing around the state again.  We did the work 
ourselves, it wasn’t hard.  Then my mom passed and we couldn’t campaign.  The 
boat is still sitting in dry storage on the overhauled trailer with her mast 
cradled.  I’ll be relaunching soon for the rest of the season.

In summary, you can do it.  The trick is finding a good trailer, making sure 
it’s in good shape, and fitting it to the boat.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Sep 13, 2023, at 8:16 AM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looking at Richard's photos from moving his 34cb to the shop got me 
> thinking.
> 
> Firefly is a C 29 Mk1 with extended keel which is lake locked 3 hrs away. 
> We have been considering moving her closer to home, back to the Columbia 
> River. As previously mentioned she is due for hull paint (or wrap) as well as 
> bottom inspection,  paint etc.
> 
> So the choices become hire a boat mover, or obtain a suitable trailer (rental 
> or buy). I have plenty of trailer-tow experience just not with a 29ft fixed 
> keel sailboat. 
> 
> The question to the group is: Any insights, experience or thoughts on 29 
> trailering? 
> 
> 
> All comments, stories and discussion welcome! 
> 
> 
> Karl and Doris Kuzis 
> Firefly, C 29 Mk1
> karl.ku...@gmail.com  
> Cell (360) 606-2099
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: No Traffic

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Well, for my part, I hauled my boat and dropped her mast August 18th to prep 
her for the Dillon Open the following weekend: new bottom job, new mast 
cradles, etc.  Then I put my mom in hospice August 22nd and she passed 
September 3rd.  I had to take DNCs in the last two races of my club’s summer 
series, knocking me off the podium.  And my boat is still out of the water.  In 
the middle of all that, I was honored to be selected as ASA sailor of the month 
for August.

When I relaunch her for fall racing, I’ll have to overhaul my A4’s cooling 
system.  Water volume out the exhaust is low, and she runs hot.  Plus replace 
bilge pumps, plus recalibrate anemometer which quit working correctly.

So all that partially explains my radio silence.

Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Sep 7, 2023, at 10:12 AM, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've not seen an email on this list since Aug 29th.  Nothing in my spam 
> foldersI'm guessing some new
> GMail setting perhaps...anyone have any suggestions?
> 
> Cheers,
>  Jeff Nelson
>  Muir Caileag
>  C 30 - 549
>  Armdale Y.C.
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Caught Out in 54 Knots, Under Full Sail

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

Just for fun I’ll share an old sea story.  Actually a new lake story.

A week ago tonight I got caught out on my 30 MK I in 54 knots under full main 
and 155% Genoa, on Chatfield Reservoir.  It was outflow from a downburst over 
downtown Denver probably 15 miles to the north; a storm cell I never even saw 
in part because of the dam on the reservoir.

Colorado Sail and Yacht Club was holding a practice race.  About an hour before 
the start, some strong gusts capsized the whole Flying Scot fleet.  Crew in the 
water were rescued by other boats including Park Rangers, and the Flying Scots 
had to be towed back to the launch ramp half-submerged, to be pumped out.

Then we started a keelboat race at about 7:05.  The first leg was downwind in 
about 10 knots from the west.  After rounding the leeward mark the wind started 
building and veering ultimately 90 degrees.  I saw it coming, but didn’t have 
time to shorten sail, and I had no way of knowing it would build to 54 knots.

When the gusts started to hit from the port side, I had water over the 
starboard cockpit coaming three separate times, and saw 50+ knots on my MFD 
when I could chance a look at it.  At some point the wind veered enough that we 
had to tack to stay on course for the next mark, and then I was heeling 45-50 
degrees to port.  This all happened in a matter of two or three minutes.  We 
had little choice but to luff completely, and furl the genoa.  Some five 
minutes later the gusts started dying down and we were able to sheet the main 
back in.  In the meantime I’d run the blowers in cast we had to start the A4, 
drive into the wind, and douse or reef the main.

All on board kept their composure, and my boat suffered no real damage.  But it 
was a pretty wild five or ten minutes.  When it was all over, my max TWS page 
on my MFD said 53.7 knots.  A guy on board captured part of it on video, 
including the mist over the water that only appears when it’s blowing that hard.

And I’m grateful once again for the stiffness of the 30 MK I.  I’ve sailed her 
in wind that strong a couple times before, but the difference was I knew in 
advance the wind was blowing, and was under double-reefed main only.  We’ve had 
some pretty active weather in Denver this spring & summer.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Replacement

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

What brands and models of bilge pumps have input hose connections?  All the 
Rule bilge pumps I’ve seen are designed to sit their bottoms in the bilge, with 
no input hose connection.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 27, 2023, at 4:48 PM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> https://www.marineengine.com/boat-accessories/plumbing/gulper-320-shower-bilge-waste-pump-whale-water-systems.php?msclkid=c321d1f6c67411f652dcb56da39db79b
> 
> The actual pump doesn't need to be in the bilge, just the end of the suction 
> hose.  I have mine mounted on wood pads I epoxied to the hull under the floor 
> boards.  5 GPM.  It will run dry and dry prime.  It will also pass trash like 
> paper pulp and bilge mung.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Listers in North Carolina?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

Yes, we saw a bunch of kiteboarders and windsurfers on the sound side of 
Hatteras near Avon.  We were there during a gale warning - the ferries even 
shut down.

Regarding the boom, I looked on Selden’s website for dealers in the US and 
contacted a half-dozen of them.  I learned that shipping a new boom to Colorado 
was going to cost me $1K (yes, seriously).  Meanwhile I already had a 
three-week trip planned with my travel trailer to the Florida panhandle (St. 
George Island State Park, fantastic place), St. Augustine where a race week was 
happening coincidentally, Charleston, the Outer Banks, and home via Nashville 
and Lake of the Ozarks.  Omar Sails in New Bern, NC is a Selden dealer and was 
one of the half-dozen I contacted.  Craig Beavers there was by far the most 
responsive and helpful of all the dealers I contacted.  He told me there is a 
Selden manufacturing site in Charleston, and confirmed I could pick up the boom 
there myself and transport it home in my travel trailer (which has 24’ finished 
space).  So I ordered the boom from Craig, and stopped at Selden about a week 
ago and met the guys who built it, and we stuffed it into my trailer.  It was 
an obvious and easy way to save $1K in shipping.

Annapolis was not on the itinerary for this trip, but thanks for the offer!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Apr 4, 2023, at 9:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER  wrote:
> 
> Hey Randy,
> Agree, Ocracoke is very charming.  It has a cute little harbor and marina and 
> a wonderfully long beach where I used to drive my Subaru loaded with 
> windsurfers about twenty years ago.  My wife and I made a windsurf trip in 
> 2020 to Hatteras and sailed the sound side behind Avon for a week.  
> Incredible seafood restaurants.  "Apple Uglys" from the bakery in Buxton are 
> a must. 
> 
> Curious how you discovered a sailmaker in NC?
> 
> I imagine you are driving around with that boom, sightseeing your way back to 
> Colorado?  Let me know if you plan to get close to Annapolis.  I'd love to 
> get you out on my boat.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Magothy River
> 
> 
> 
>> On 04/04/2023 8:45 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hello Listers,
>> 
>> I remember seeing posts in this forum about C owners in North Carolina.  
>> This weekend I visited Ocracoke and was smitten.  Charming place.  On the 
>> way to OBX I stopped in Charleston, SC and picked up a new Selden boom for 
>> Grenadine.  I ordered it through Omar Sails in New Bern, NC, and got great 
>> service from Craig Beavers there.  Great part of the country!
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Listers in North Carolina?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

I remember seeing posts in this forum about C owners in North Carolina.  This 
weekend I visited Ocracoke and was smitten.  Charming place.  On the way to OBX 
I stopped in Charleston, SC and picked up a new Selden boom for Grenadine.  I 
ordered it through Omar Sails in New Bern, NC, and got great service from Craig 
Beavers there.  Great part of the country!

Cheers,
Randy
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Mast Sheaves

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

No, Grenadine’s sheaves are definitely much thinner and larger diameter, and 
aluminum.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 16, 2023, at 8:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> They look like this?
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNCZWtUQ2JQeVE/view?usp=share_link=0-Em5B_AxQTt0SXnJYhnRneA
>  
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNCZWtUQ2JQeVE/view?usp=share_link=0-Em5B_AxQTt0SXnJYhnRneA>
> 
> I had these on my desk for years along with a mast base exit fitting.  I've 
> looked everywhere and can't find now them to measure for you.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Mar 15, 2023 at 2:45 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> 
> Does anyone happen to know the size (inner diameter, outer diameter, and 
> thickness) of the original mast sheaves on a 30 MK I?  I have hull #79, 1972. 
>  There are three at the masthead (two headsail, one mainsail), and three at 
> the base.  Does anyone know whether the masthead and mast base sheaves are 
> the same size?
> 
> The original sheaves were grooved for wire/rope halyards.  I’m replacing my 
> original halyards with all-rope Novabraid Argus, and will replace the sheaves 
> to match.  I’m preparing to order replacements from Garhauer and need to know 
> the size.  https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/?_categories=mast-sheaves 
> <https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/?_categories=mast-sheaves>.
> 
> Right now I don’t have access to the masthead, but I can remove one of the 
> mast base sheaves to measure it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Mast Sheaves

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Roy.  Grenadine has always been a freshwater boat, so corrosion is not 
an issue.

The main halyard masthead sheave is a bit buggered on one of its rims from the 
halyard jumping the sheave and being pried back out.  I don’t know if it’s a 
chafing risk for a new all-rope halyard, but it’s not that big of a deal and 
not that much cost to replace the sheaves.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 15, 2023, at 9:06 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> "The original sheaves were grooved for wire/rope halyards.  I’m replacing my 
> original halyards with all-rope Novabraid Argus," 
> 
> 
> Randy, 
> 
> The original masthead sheaves  on my 78 30 mk1, handle both wire AND rope. 
> 
> Same with the other C of the same age in our marina who switched to rope 
> halyards over the years. 
> 
> The mast head sheaves have a dual groove design. The wire sits in a narrow 
> slot at the bottom and the rope sits on top of that. 
> 
> The sheaves on the bottom are rope since the wire normally never reaches 
> them. 
> 
> Unless the sheaves are in bad shape you likely don't need to replace them. 
> Just attach the new rope to the old halyards and pull them through. 
> 
> All the boats around have spent their lives in fresh water so the sheaves 
> were in good shape. Depending on your boat I would inspect them. 
> 
> Roy 
> 78 C 30 Mark 1 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List 30 MK I Mast Sheaves

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

Does anyone happen to know the size (inner diameter, outer diameter, and 
thickness) of the original mast sheaves on a 30 MK I?  I have hull #79, 1972.  
There are three at the masthead (two headsail, one mainsail), and three at the 
base.  Does anyone know whether the masthead and mast base sheaves are the same 
size?

The original sheaves were grooved for wire/rope halyards.  I’m replacing my 
original halyards with all-rope Novabraid Argus, and will replace the sheaves 
to match.  I’m preparing to order replacements from Garhauer and need to know 
the size.  https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/?_categories=mast-sheaves 
.

Right now I don’t have access to the masthead, but I can remove one of the mast 
base sheaves to measure it.

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, COPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Best Telltale Treatment

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Yes.  Led Zeppelin Houses of the Holy on the shrouds and backstay.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 9, 2023, at 6:39 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Did you try pieces of old cassette tape for ticklers and tell tales
> 
> On Mon, Feb 27, 2023 at 11:37 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Great question.  I have used MacLube SailCoat but a waterproofing spray may 
> be better.  Just had a sail repaired and will ask the sailmaker when I pick 
> it up.
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> 
> 
> > On 02/27/2023 10:16 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List  > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > Listers-
> > 
> > What, in your experience, has been the best treatment to apply to telltales 
> > to keep them from sticking from sails?  I’m talking mostly about yarn 
> > telltales along a headsail’s luff, but also ripstop nylon telltales on a 
> > mainsail’s leech?  I’ve noticed that sometimes yarn telltales will stick 
> > due to static or moisture.  I’d like to find the right magic potion or 
> > pixie dust to apply to give them the greatest ability possible to fly 
> > without sticking.  Then, making them fly properly is of course up to the 
> > crew.
> > 
> > Cheers,
> > Randy
> > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
> > help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> > Thanks for your help.
> > Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Best Telltale Treatment

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Interesting idea.  For shroud and backstay telltales I use cassette tape.  
Currently Led Zeppelin Houses of the Holy.

Thanks all for the replies.  I’ll go with McLube on my dacron genoa luff 
telltales of yarn.

I’m getting my main back from Sail Care this week with new nylon telltales.  
Problem is, once they fray, they start to catch stitching or batten pocket 
closures etc.  I’ll try plastic next time that happens.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Feb 28, 2023, at 10:25 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I Found the best telltales are made from reel to reel recording tape. Attach 
> the tape as though it were streaming forward. Then when you are sailing the 
> tape will stream aft, and it won't lie flat against the sail, preventing it 
> from sticking.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 8:59 AM Matt Janssen via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Randy, 
> 
> On most race boats i've been on, the standby is coating the telltale in 
> McLube or a similar dry silicone lubricant. 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Best Telltale Treatment

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers-

What, in your experience, has been the best treatment to apply to telltales to 
keep them from sticking from sails?  I’m talking mostly about yarn telltales 
along a headsail’s luff, but also ripstop nylon telltales on a mainsail’s 
leech?  I’ve noticed that sometimes yarn telltales will stick due to static or 
moisture.  I’d like to find the right magic potion or pixie dust to apply to 
give them the greatest ability possible to fly without sticking.  Then, making 
them fly properly is of course up to the crew.

Cheers,
Randy
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Boatless again

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Looking at the different Passport models on sailboatdata.com 
<http://sailboatdata.com/>, I think the boat I saw must have been a Passport 47 
- a Robert Perry design.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Feb 23, 2023, at 12:46 PM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes! That is right. Thank you Paul!
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 23, 2023, at 12:40 PM, paul.hood  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hey Randy
>> 
>> Are you maybe thinking of a Passport.  That's the only one I can think of 
>> that starts with P
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Galaxy
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> Date: 2023-02-23 2:24 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Randy Stafford 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Boatless again
>> 
>> At the end of that Newport -> St. Thomas delivery I crewed in November 2021, 
>> there was a beautiful traditional-looking ~50-foot monohull cutter that tied 
>> up behind us at the AYH fuel dock in Red Hook.  It had just made the same 
>> voyage we did, I learned.  I asked the skipper what kind of boat it was.  I 
>> can’t quite remember his answer, but I think it had the word “Passage” in 
>> it.  Does that ring a bell for anyone?  Ever heard of a boat brand with the 
>> word “Passage” in it?  I think it is in the center of this picture, S/V 
>> Grateful Dad: 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZbMB5nUEanRw5RtRyJ7MehAN4w-ZdGVO/view?usp=share_link
>>  
>> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZbMB5nUEanRw5RtRyJ7MehAN4w-ZdGVO/view?usp=share_link>.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Boatless again

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

At the end of that Newport -> St. Thomas delivery I crewed in November 2021, 
there was a beautiful traditional-looking ~50-foot monohull cutter that tied up 
behind us at the AYH fuel dock in Red Hook.  It had just made the same voyage 
we did, I learned.  I asked the skipper what kind of boat it was.  I can’t 
quite remember his answer, but I think it had the word “Passage” in it.  Does 
that ring a bell for anyone?  Ever heard of a boat brand with the word 
“Passage” in it?  I think it is in the center of this picture, S/V Grateful 
Dad: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZbMB5nUEanRw5RtRyJ7MehAN4w-ZdGVO/view?usp=share_link
 
.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Feb 23, 2023, at 9:04 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good point Dave!  I do notice, a lot of the boats I'm looking at, on line, do 
> have bow thrusters.  Of course, I'm rarely at dock for more than filling up 
> and washing down.  But, I do like the idea of those types of modern tech!  
> (how modern is it really?)
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: David Risch via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: David Risch 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Boatless again
> Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2023 15:04:40 +
> 
> 
> Danny,
> 
>  
> I may be preaching to the choir here and you may have already thought of this 
> but Oyster 47 handling vs. Tartan 40 handling is a different order of 
> magnitude in close maneuvering.   Not the size per se, but the weight.  A 
> thrusting bow may something to look for.   
> 
>  
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2023 8:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Boatless again
> 
>  
> I was lust looking at a local Oyster 47 listing.  I Really like how it looks! 
>  Ticks a lot of boxes!  If I can stay away from the newer flat bottoms, I 
> would be really happy!  I got to keep the admiral happy though...  She did 
> find a Trinella that looks really nice, it a Ron Holland design.  So, there 
> is hope!
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  >
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Andrew Burton  >
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Boatless again
> Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2023 15:00:40 -0500
> 
> Hi Danny, 
> I think an Oyster 47 might check those boxes. Good-sailing, we’ll-built boat 
> and very comfy. I made fairly quick passages to Antigua and back on one a few 
> years ago. 
> If you need to be more performance-oriented, there’s a sister to Masquerade 
> (Baltic 47) around that I bet will be on the market some day in the not too 
> distant future.
> Cheers
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> +401 965-5260
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Half Century Club

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Oh she is :)

> On Jan 25, 2023, at 2:31 PM, Martin DeYoung  
> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a trophy wife…
> 
> Martin
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2023, at 11:38 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>  For her 50th birthday last year she got a new genoa furler and genoa, and 
>> a retractable bowsprit, asym, and top-down furler for it.  She was the 
>> sharpest looking boat on my lake before, and she’s even sharper-looking now. 
>>  Plus she can still whoop the fleet when the wind is up.  This year she’s 
>> getting self-tailing winches, a new boom, new halyards and sheaves, deck 
>> organizers and rope clutches.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2023, at 12:32 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Grenadine, HIN 30007972.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Randy Stafford
>>> SV Grenadine
>>> C 30 MK I #79
>>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>> 
>>>> On Jan 25, 2023, at 8:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the half-century 
>>>> mark?
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I
>>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>>> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=05%7C01%7C%7Cd5a43bbc81b24878ddc108daff0bba69%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638102723084883160%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=PYY0BEXIvYSkE0ZC1N%2FVxcuOcm87%2FcQv05dzDYdsxUY%3D=0>
>>>> Thanks for your help.
>>>> Stu
>>> 
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=05%7C01%7C%7Cd5a43bbc81b24878ddc108daff0bba69%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638102723085039366%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=VbxSp5rQI%2BQLKOnmQVvxDPweUyn5DHXWmlc8Sam7UFc%3D=0>
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Half Century Club

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

For her 50th birthday last year she got a new genoa furler and genoa, and a 
retractable bowsprit, asym, and top-down furler for it.  She was the sharpest 
looking boat on my lake before, and she’s even sharper-looking now.  Plus she 
can still whoop the fleet when the wind is up.  This year she’s getting 
self-tailing winches, a new boom, new halyards and sheaves, deck organizers and 
rope clutches.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 25, 2023, at 12:32 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Grenadine, HIN 30007972.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
>> On Jan 25, 2023, at 8:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the half-century 
>> mark?
>>  
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Half Century Club

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Grenadine, HIN 30007972.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jan 25, 2023, at 8:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the half-century mark?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Replacing Original Boom

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Happy New Year Listers.

I’m contemplating replacing the original boom on my 30 MK I with a new Selden 
BS120-03B.  This is an outgrowth of my offseason project to replace sheaves & 
halyards, add deck organizers and rope clutches to lead lines aft, etc.

What attracts me to a new modern boom is being able to run the outhaul and reef 
lines through sheaves at its aft end, through the boom, through sheaves at its 
forward end, down to turning blocks on the mast at the collar, then aft via 
deck organizers to rope clutches.  The Selden booms also have a pretty slick 
internal single-line reefing system for two reef points.

I’ve requested a few quotes and so far the price is less than I feared - 
reasonable enough to actually do it.

Have any of y’all done this before, and have any experience to report?

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Is this a C?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Sheerline, bow overhang, and keel shape don’t look like a C 30’s.

Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 24, 2022, at 7:33 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-cc-30-sloop-sailboat/7522712710.html
>  
> 
>  
> The boat looks a bit different than I thought the 30s looked like???
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  

Stus-List Running Lights Blowing Fuses

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

I’m in need of your sage advice or at least hypotheses on an electrical problem.

Here’s the background.  Late last season my starboard running light bulb burnt 
out.  It was a simple incandescent bulb, and the fixtures were probably 
original.  So I thought hey, why not replace all three running lights with 
LEDs.  In the process of doing that, I accidentally dropped the port fixture’s 
dome cover to the bottom of my slip (no chance of recovery; zero visibility).  
So, shit.  I buy three new fixtures which have the same hole pattern as the old 
ones but of course take different bulbs so I had to buy LED festoon-style bulbs 
too.  What started out as a simple $1.50 bulb replacement turned into a $150 
project.  And of course the new fixtures’ bases are thicker than the old, so I 
had to get longer stainless screws and drill and tap deeper holes in the 
stemhead casting.

Well, after getting everything back together I discovered the running lights 
circuit is blowing its fuse within seconds of switching it on.  But only when 
the dome covers are screwed on to forward fixtures (the new stern fixture 
including dome cover screws into the teak taffrail and causes no problems).  
I’ve now isolated the misbehavior to screwing the forward dome covers on.  If I 
leave the covers off, the LED bulbs burn all night.  I can press down on the 
fixtures and twist the LED bulbs around no problem - none of that causes any 
contact that shorts the circuit.  If I put the covers on but don’t screw them 
down, the LED bulbs burn all night.  But as soon as I screw those forward 
covers down, blown fuse.

I’ve pulled the fixtures and looked carefully again at all the wiring, 
including in the forepeak under the deck.  There is no pinched wire or cut 
insulation.  The wiring to the fixtures goes through different (and much 
bigger) holes than any of the screws do.  My heat-shrink butt connections are 
tight.  As a short-term solution I just bought some nylon screws to hold the 
covers down.  I haven’t tested that yet, but hopefully it works.

Meanwhile I’m pretty mystified.  Any theories?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Grenadine's New Asym

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers, thanks for your advice on asym rigging and trimming.

I’ve posted a few shots of Grenadine’s new asym at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1sUKe4DrBwEkG292kNgw3M2ewW4iW4Vfh?usp=sharing
 
.

The sail is by Point Sails in San Diego (https://www.pointsails.com/about.html 
).

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I have a regular crew that has been together for seven years.  When we fly the 
symmetrical I’m on foredeck, and probably will be with the asym too (working 
its furling line).  I’m confident our sail changes will be faster with furling 
genoa and furling asym than with the previous  genoa luff rope in a head foil, 
and symmetrical in a sock with big heavy spin pole.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 12, 2022, at 2:13 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Do you race your 30 single handed or with crew. If with good crew i think 
> your symetrical kite hoists and take downs would be close to seemless sail 
> transtions and very fast. I hope changing gear makes the difference you are 
> looking for but you may still need help from good crew and you may still need 
> to make some good tactical decisions that turn out lucky decisions. Gear 
> changes will affect ratings.  Ratings assume equal crew. Your crew might be 
> more important to success. 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2022 at 11:25 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.  He’s 
> the one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit, asym, 
> and top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now the 
> minimum ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his genoa and 
> unfurl his asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes to set the 
> spin pole, hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and drop the genoa. 
>  There was no way I could compete.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> 
>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor! 
>> 
>> I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada, Erie PA
>> 
>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker.
>> 
>> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a 
>> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the 
>> latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>> 
>> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
>> downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s 
>> races.
>> 
>> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
>> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>> 
>> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
>> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line 
>> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit 
>> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so 
>> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware 
>> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an 
>> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>> 
>> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for 
>> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I 
>> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>> 
>> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
>> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so 
>> the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>> 
>> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
>> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
>> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
>> 
>> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
>> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
>> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Yes, he does.  It doesn’t seem to affect his upwind performance.  His sprit 
projects out two or three feet from the stemhead.

Last week I had a great start, made him duck me at the committee boat end of 
the line, then tacked immediately, and got several boat lengths advantage on 
him right away.  But he caught me right at the windward mark.Back to the 
arms race theme, I forgot to mention he showed up this year with a new carbon 
fiber genoa.  That, and the relatively light air last week, I think allowed him 
to catch me upwind.  My 30 MK I would prefer 25 knots :)

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 12, 2022, at 8:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does he have the asym hoisted and furled on the furler throughout the race 
> and just unfurl it or hoist it furled at the mark?  I have wondered how much 
> interference a furled A-sail would have on upwind performance.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 12, 2022, at 10:25 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.  He’s 
>> the one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit, asym, 
>> and top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now the 
>> minimum ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his genoa and 
>> unfurl his asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes to set the 
>> spin pole, hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and drop the 
>> genoa.  There was no way I could compete.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>>> On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor! 
>>> 
>>> I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!
>>> 
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> Entrada, Erie PA
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
>>> asymmetrical spinnaker.
>>> 
>>> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a 
>>> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 
>>> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing 
>>> the latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>>> 
>>> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind 
>>> / downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s 
>>> races.
>>> 
>>> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
>>> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>>> 
>>> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
>>> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line 
>>> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit 
>>> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so 
>>> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware 
>>> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an 
>>> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>>> 
>>> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for 
>>> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I 
>>> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>>> 
>>> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads 
>>> his asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck 
>>> so the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>>> 
>>> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
>>> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
>>> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
>>> 
>>> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
>>> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
>>> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> Randy Stafford
>>> SV Grenadine
>>> C 30 MK I #79
>>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck, and thanks.

Regarding a rope clutch, my asym will be hoisted, furled, on its top-down 
furler at the dock before heading out, and will stay hoisted the whole time 
(either furled up, or unfurled).  So there will be no hoisting and dousing of 
the asym while on the water.  I’ve got a cam cleat on the starboard cabintop 
side, basically at the cockpit coaming, which was for my pole down line.  I’m 
hoping it will be sufficient for the asym tack line.

And yes I think the asym will be a lot easier to fly at Chatfield than the 
symmetrical.  In addition to shifty wind, we have short legs, and I really got 
tired of busting my ass on the foredeck, schlepping that big spinnaker pole 
around every few minutes when we needed to set, gybe, or douse.  It was hard 
work.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 2:13 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> I found it to be very important to have a clutch for the tack line.  When the 
> tack line is pulled to set the chute,it needs to be deployed with the clutch 
> closed.  The only time you release the tack line is when the sail is almost 
> all the way down, just enough to get the sail below deck.  As previously 
> mentioned, you'll need to play with how much tack line is right for sailing 
> angle and wind conditions.  For a boat designed primarily for a symmetric 
> spinnaker,  anything deeper than 150 degrees and the Asym will really 
> struggle even with the tack line eased a few feet.  On the boat I race on, we 
> put our turning blocks for spin sheets about 1/2 way back in the cockpit and 
> lead to the opposite side coach roof winch so we can sheet from the windward 
> side of the boat, giving the trimmer the best view of the sail.   With all 
> the lines (tack line, spin  sheets, outhaul, twings, furling line, main 
> halyard) collecting at the coachroof/companionway and the spin sheets 
> crossing each other,  it’s a full time job for the pit person to keep lines 
> untangled and makes for lots of flying elbows during a gybe.  But in truth, 
> by losing a pole up and pole down control line, there's actually a bit less 
> clutter and the trimmer only needs to really pay attention to the one sheet 
> rather than both a sheet and guy.  You're going to love it, especially in 
> shifty Chatfield conditions.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, July 11, 2022 1:04 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim
> 
> Hey Randy,
> Great questions regarding sail trim.  
> 
> Can't wait to see some pictures of your assym setup.  I still haven't gotten 
> the A sail up but I put up some pictures of the sprit on my Facebook page:
> https://www.facebook.com/chuck.scheaffer
> 
> Chuck S
> 
> 
> 
>> On 07/10/2022 9:45 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker.
>> 
>> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a 
>> new Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 
>> asymmetrical spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the 
>> latter two birthday presents on Tuesday.
>> 
>> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
>> downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s 
>> races.
>> 
>> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
>> additional tips you old salts might offer.
>> 
>> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
>> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line 
>> to run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit 
>> lengthwise.  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so 
>> I’ve repurposed a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware 
>> was sufficient for a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an 
>> asym tack line.  Am I wrong?
>> 
>> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for 
>> the symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I 
>> use snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>> 
>> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
>> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so 
>> the trimmer can see the whole sail.
>> 
>> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
>> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
&

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I do want to whoop my main competitor!  Or at least compete with him.  He’s the 
one who started an arms race in the fleet, by adding a bowsprit, asym, and 
top-down furler two years ago.  That and a furling genoa is now the minimum 
ante in the fleet.  At the windward mark he could furl his genoa and unfurl his 
asym in 30 seconds, while it took me several minutes to set the spin pole, 
hoist the symmetrical, hoist its dousing sock, and drop the genoa.  There was 
no way I could compete.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Wow, you must really want to whoop your main competitor! 
> 
> I guess that's what we do - it's just boat bucks!
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> 
> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 9:46 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
> asymmetrical spinnaker.
> 
> For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a new 
> Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 asymmetrical 
> spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the latter two 
> birthday presents on Tuesday.
> 
> This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
> downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s races.
> 
> I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
> additional tips you old salts might offer.
> 
> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
> run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise. 
>  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed 
> a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for 
> a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am 
> I wrong?
> 
> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
> symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
> snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
> 
> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
> trimmer can see the whole sail.
> 
> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.
> 
> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Re: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike.  My RSA is sufficiently lax (or clueless) that adding a sprit 
doesn’t change a boat’s rating.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 6:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Randy
>  
> Check with your local PHRF authority (assume you already have).  In many 
> areas adding a bowsprit to a boat to tack your asym spin affects rating.  If 
> doing this and also carrying a symmetric spin and pole can be a penalty 
> adjustment (faster rating).  If only the asym and no spin may actually be in 
> your favour
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
>  
> From: StrightR--- via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: July 11, 2022 6:02 AM
> To: 'Randy Stafford via CnC-List'  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: cnc-l...@cnc-list.co <mailto:cnc-l...@cnc-list.co>; strig...@eastlink.ca 
> <mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>
> Subject: Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim
>  
> Hi Randy comments below:
>  
> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
> run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise. 
>  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed 
> a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for 
> a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am 
> I wrong? 
>  
> Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but 
> will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.  
> We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping 
> hazard
>  
> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
> symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
> snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>  
> If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely 
> need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same 
> place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers 
> depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to 
> trim the sail and adjust the leech.
>  
> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
> trimmer can see the whole sail.
>  
> High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.
>  
> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>  
> You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will 
> depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind  
> if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if 
> it rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet 
> downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really 
> light.
>  
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.
>  
> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>  
> Rod Stright
> C 99 Halifax

Stus-List Re: FW: Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Rod!  I appreciate all the suggestions!  Regarding the tripping hazard, 
the tack line will be on the deck, led around the side deck where it meets the 
cabintop, by existing fairleads for the pole down line.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 3:03 AM, StrightR--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> Hi Randy comments below:
>  
> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
> run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise. 
>  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed 
> a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for 
> a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am 
> I wrong?  
>  
> Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but 
> will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.  
> We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping 
> hazard
>  
> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
> symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
> snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>  
> If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely 
> need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same 
> place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers 
> depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to 
> trim the sail and adjust the leech.
>  
> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
> trimmer can see the whole sail.
>  
> High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.
>  
> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>  
> You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will 
> depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind  
> if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if 
> it rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet 
> downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really 
> light.
>  
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.
>  
> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>  
> Rod Stright
> C 99 Halifax

Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers I am appealing to your collective wisdom on rigging and trimming an 
asymmetrical spinnaker.

For Grenadine’s 50th birthday this year, I added a new furling genoa on a new 
Selden 204S furler, a retractable Selden 75 bowsprit, and an A2 asymmetrical 
spinnaker on a Selden GX10 top-down furler.  I’m installing the latter two 
birthday presents on Tuesday.

This is all to improve my downwind performance, and facilitate fast upwind / 
downwind sail plan changes at the marks and on the course, in my club’s races.

I guess my specific questions are as follows, but I would appreciate any 
additional tips you old salts might offer.

1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise.  
My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed a 
little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for a 
symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am I 
wrong?

2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.

3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
trimmer can see the whole sail.

4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s tensioned 
so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, but it can be 
eased - how much, and under what conditions?

Thanks in advance for any wisdom you mmight share.

Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
(red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Re: The Pursuit of Excellence

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Fantastic reading!  It only takes about an hour to read it end-to-end.  What a 
great accomplishment.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 5, 2022, at 6:57 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Downloaded, and will read with great interest.  Thank you JohnKelly.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
>> On Jul 4, 2022, at 10:52 PM, Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Doug Hunter who has written a number of books including Against the odds: 
>> The incredible story of Evergreen and the Canada's Cup was commissioned in 
>> 1982 by George H. Cuthbertson to write the corporate history of C Yachts.  
>>  
>> 
>> Well, it has sat on multiple bookcases since then and finally is available 
>> for everyone to read.
>> 
>> If you are interested in the corporate history of C
>> 
>> Free digital download from:
>> 
>> https://www.motiondesignslimited.com/the-chandlery?store-page=The-Pursuit-of-Excellence-p475175729
>> 
>> JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
>> 
>> www.candcyachts.com
>> Motion Designs Limited
>> 647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: The Pursuit of Excellence

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Downloaded, and will read with great interest.  Thank you JohnKelly.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 4, 2022, at 10:52 PM, Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Doug Hunter who has written a number of books including Against the odds: The 
> incredible story of Evergreen and the Canada's Cup was commissioned in 1982 
> by George H. Cuthbertson to write the corporate history of C Yachts.   
> 
> Well, it has sat on multiple bookcases since then and finally is available 
> for everyone to read.
> 
> If you are interested in the corporate history of C
> 
> Free digital download from:
> 
> https://www.motiondesignslimited.com/the-chandlery?store-page=The-Pursuit-of-Excellence-p475175729
> 
> JohnKelly Cuthbertson 
> 
> www.candcyachts.com
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Calypso in trouble again

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Holy shit!

No listers were aboard last time, but I was monitoring Calypso’s situation via 
Iridium text from another boat several hundred miles away, and shortly 
afterward made contact with crew member Karen via Facebook.  The story of that 
Calypso misadventure, from Karen’s perspective, starts on p.18 of 
https://www.caribbeancompass.com/online/february22compass_online.pdf 
.

So I guess Calypso is adrift and maybe sunken by now?

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On May 12, 2022, at 12:29 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.foxnews.com/us/coast-guard-crew-rescues-injured-sailors-long-island-sound-vessel-disabled-rogue-wave
>  
> 
>  
> https://news.yahoo.com/dramatic-video-shows-rescue-4-144231376.html 
> 
>  
> Any listers on the boat this time? Yike!
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Well thank you very much Matt, but I already ordered a pair of replacements.

Cheers,
Randy

> On May 6, 2022, at 3:39 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy:
>  
> I’ll bet have an old Perko light or two laying around.  I 
> saved them when I upgraded for some unknown reason (boat parts hoarder).  
> Happy to send one if I can find it.  Any interest?
>  
> Matt
>     C 42 Custom
>  
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Friday, May 06, 2022 12:16 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Randy Stafford  <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light
>  
> Thanks everybody.  I agree the Perko 0963 is the closest thing to what’s on 
> my boat.  It looks like the design has changed since mine were installed, to 
> have a plastic base and a festoon bulb (mine have a G6 bulb).
>  
> The way this saga started was that my starboard nav light bulb burnt out.  So 
> I bought LED replacement bulbs with G6 bases for all three nav lights.  In 
> the process of installing them, I dropped the port nav light dome and lens 
> and two screws to the bottom of my slip (to join various screwdrivers and 
> fasteners etc. that I’ve previously dropped; even a snatch block).
>  
> So now I’ve got project scope creep.  A simple light bulb change has turned 
> into a swap out of two or three fixtures and a need to buy LED festoon bulbs 
> for each.  At least I found a pair of the Perko 0963s for $109 at some 
> trailer store online, which was the cheapest price out there.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> 
>> On May 6, 2022, at 6:39 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> Randy,
>>  
>> The Perko 0963 horizontal mount lights are no longer in production.  Perko 
>> does sell the lenses.  Their website says contact them about legacy products.
>>  
>> There are still complete lights out there.  Google "Perko 0963".
>>  
>> https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0963DP0CHR-Horizontal-Mount-Light/dp/B00144D1WK 
>> <https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0963DP0CHR-Horizontal-Mount-Light/dp/B00144D1WK>
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/125052136741?epid=1065002310=item1d1db02d25:g:B4QAAOSw2nhhuPF-
>>  
>> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/125052136741?epid=1065002310=item1d1db02d25:g:B4QAAOSw2nhhuPF->
>>  
>> I replaced the bulbs in mine with red and green LED bulbs from MarineBeam.
>>  
>> I also had to put Helicoils in the bow fitting for mine.
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Where to Source a Running Light

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks everybody.  I agree the Perko 0963 is the closest thing to what’s on my 
boat.  It looks like the design has changed since mine were installed, to have 
a plastic base and a festoon bulb (mine have a G6 bulb).

The way this saga started was that my starboard nav light bulb burnt out.  So I 
bought LED replacement bulbs with G6 bases for all three nav lights.  In the 
process of installing them, I dropped the port nav light dome and lens and two 
screws to the bottom of my slip (to join various screwdrivers and fasteners 
etc. that I’ve previously dropped; even a snatch block).

So now I’ve got project scope creep.  A simple light bulb change has turned 
into a swap out of two or three fixtures and a need to buy LED festoon bulbs 
for each.  At least I found a pair of the Perko 0963s for $109 at some trailer 
store online, which was the cheapest price out there.

Cheers,
Randy

> On May 6, 2022, at 6:39 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> The Perko 0963 horizontal mount lights are no longer in production.  Perko 
> does sell the lenses.  Their website says contact them about legacy products.
> 
> There are still complete lights out there.  Google "Perko 0963".
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Perko-0963DP0CHR-Horizontal-Mount-Light/dp/B00144D1WK 
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/125052136741?epid=1065002310=item1d1db02d25:g:B4QAAOSw2nhhuPF-
>  
> 
> 
> I replaced the bulbs in mine with red and green LED bulbs from MarineBeam.
> 
> I also had to put Helicoils in the bow fitting for mine.
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Where to Source a Running Light

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where to source the dome-style running lights for an older 
C, with the green red or white plastic insert?

Here’s a photo of what I’m looking for: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xe1lV7JICWSDbu8LOfELaCvJkaZ6TM9C/view?usp=sharing
 


Thanks,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Chainplate Question

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

Upon launching my boat this season (1972 30 MK I hull #79), I’ve noticed some 
crazing on the port side deck around the chainplate.  I’ve also noticed the 
side deck has heaved up maybe 1/8” to 1/4” right around the chainplate.  The 
same thing has not happened on the starboard side.

Both these things are new (not noticed last season, though they could have been 
there), and I’m trying to figure out what they might mean.  I inspected the 
chainplate knee and chainplate bolting to the knee, and all that is solid as a 
rock.  I’ve also rapped on the side deck there with a screwdriver handle, and 
it doesn’t sound dull or feel soft.

When I bought my boat in 2016 it had the dimple in the port hull outboard of 
the chainplate knee, that other C have had as discussed on this list.  In 
the first offseason or two that I owned her, I resealed her chainplate cutouts 
as described in a recent thread.

Any thoughts on what this crazing and heaving might signify, and how I could 
investigate further?  For now I’ve sealed over the crazing cracks with JB Weld 
marine epoxy, to prevent water intrusion.

Thank You,
Randy Stafford
SV Greanadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Jeff,

Regarding epoxy, I can still get my chainplates out.  That’s why I put a 
releasing agent on them.  Once the epoxy hardened, I took them back out, and 
now the cutouts are a better fit around the chainplates.  But you have a point 
about movement.  Next time I get in there, I’ll have to inspect for effects of 
that.

Regarding knees, I remember a story on this list I think, within the last few 
years, about a Redwing that had to be totaled due to complete destruction of 
one of its knees.  When I did my resealing job and unbolted the chainplates 
from the knees, I’m pretty sure I concluded the knees on my boat are solid 
fiberglass.  I didn’t see any wood core in the bolt holes, and there’s pretty 
heavy matting/roving visible on the surface of the knees.  That would be in 
keeping with the rest of the hull construction on the early 30 MK I boats - 
solid glass hull, built like tanks.  I also inspected the metal chainplates as 
best I could with a strong magnifying glass, and didn’t see any signs of 
hairline cracking etc.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 21, 2022, at 4:12 PM, Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I second the sealing with butyl. Do NOT use silicone or 4200. The epoxy idea 
> may be ok, but messy and no going back. "Beefing up" the plates wont do any 
> harm but isn't necessary. These plates effectively protect the sealant. 
> That's it. Check the balsa core around the penetration. Depending on extent 
> of decay, determine how this will be remedied -- from digging out a small 
> amount balsa and fill with butyl to cutting out glass from above or below to 
> repair and anything in between. Overfill with butyl fron above and below, 
> then gradually tighten the cover plates to compress butyl and force it into 
> all voids. Carefully trim all excess butyl that oozes out from under the 
> plates and remove. Check frequently for leaks and gradual oozing of butyl.
> 
> The chain plates move in and out, perpendicular to the deck under load, 
> unload. The sealing material must be able to move also. Epoxy will not move. 
> Silicone will for a while, but it's difficult stuff to remove later if it 
> fails. Same with 4200 but even worse.  Butyl is the solution.
> 
> Also, I encourage you to carefully inspect the knee connection where chain 
> plate bolts to hull. Remove bolts and poke around with dental tools. Make 
> sure plywood is intact and not rotting. Inspect in the bottom of the space 
> below knee, poking and tapping everything, checking for hollow sounds and 
> decay. If there have been leaks at the deck, water runs down chain plate and 
> into all the plywood knee structure and can damage it. So, there is more to 
> preventing water at the deck core. Much more.
> 
> I am sure others on the list have stories to tell. A lister has an 81 C 
> that is in for a major major repair (thousands $$) of the knees due to a 
> leak. The rig nearly came down while racing. I was crew. Scary.  So I 
> immediately checked my C Leaking but very little decay. Dry as bone 
> after butyl and 4 months -- haven't been to boat since about November, but 
> under winter cover.
> 
> Jeff Laman
> 81 C
> Harmony
> Ludington Mich
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> From: MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 5:38:59 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: MICHAEL BRANNON 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.
>  
> John,  I’ve owned my 36-1 since 1997.   I’ve yet to make the chainplates quit 
> leaking but I’ve certainly reduced the amount.   First,  I doubt that the 
> balsa around your chainplates is sealed.  Mine wasn’t.  I had to replace core 
> material on the starboard side.   Second.  Those aluminum trim pieces are 
> flush to the deck.  I raised mine about 3?16” and that is what made the 
> difference.   Lastly,   Like everything else above the waterline I used butyl 
> as the sealant.   It remains flexible and easy to remove.   My advise is to 
> ask the butyl from both sides of the deck.  Install the trim plates and see 
> if it is sealed?   
> 
> Cheer, and best of luck.  
> 
> Mike
> 
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> 1978 C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> PS,  mine need to be done again this year.   
> 
> 
>> On Mar 21, 2022, at 5:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>>  
>> Many would suggest 3M 4200, but silicone has issues. I swear by butyl tape 
>> (it never hardens out completely and it is very flexible). The best source 
>> is Maine Sail (Compass Marine https://marinehowto.com/ 
>> ),
>>  though, I am not sure if he still sells this stuff (he had a bad hard 

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I resealed the chainplates on my 30 MK I about five years ago with advice from 
Dennis Cheuvront here on the list.  I removed the chainplates (there’s only one 
per side on a 30 MK I) and dug out maybe a half-inch of wet / rotted balsa core 
around the cutouts between the fiberglass layers.  Then I put the plates back 
in with a releasing agent on them (Carmex, it turned out), and filled all gaps 
with thickened epoxy, injecting it through the cover screw holes etc.  First 
I'd packed Play-Doh between the inner fiberglass layer and cabin ceiling liner 
to prevent epoxy from dripping and oozing.  Finally I put the covers back on 
sealed with LifeSeal.  Some pictures of the project at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk?resourcekey=0-17H-NdO9zgBNAfBVLXuK2A=sharing
 
.
  Overall I think it was an improvement, a necessary catch-up on some deferred 
maintenance, but unfortunately I think I still get a bit of leakage down the 
chainplates.  At least now I hope it’s not wetting the balsa core. 

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Mar 21, 2022, at 2:40 PM, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 3M 4200
>  
> From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
> Sent: March-21-22 5:28 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List Chainplate Sealing.
>  
> Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I 
> pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod on 
> starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is 
> missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The 
> covers are original and thin 1/16 aluminum. I am getting them beefed up to 
> 1/8 stainless.
>  
> Looks like the PO had only sealed them with clear silicone. So that will all 
> be dug out. I am also inspecting the hull tabbing below with the chainplates 
> etc to ensure that I do not have any issues there. What is the best sealant 
> to use when installing the new cover plates? Thanks!
>  
> Regards,
>  
> John McCrea
> Talisman
> 1979 36-1
> Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Chuck that sounds like a good plan.  I replaced my exterior teak handrails five 
years ago (1972 30 MK I hull #79) and they were fastened almost the same way - 
with long wood screws through the interior handrails and cabintop (no nuts 
involved).  When I reassembled I fastened them the same way (with new SS wood 
screws) and left the interior bungs out.  The threaded insert and machine screw 
from inside approach sounds pretty slick. 

Cheers,
Randy 

> On Mar 19, 2022, at 7:37 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Curious if anyone else tried this?
> 
> My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling.  
> They were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the holes 
> bunged.  I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to install them 
> now so I can simply remove the screws from inside and remove both for a 
> winter retouch.
> 
> They were originally through bolted together, the outside cabintop handrails 
> had 3 1/2" long 10-24 screws and the cabin ceiling handrails had nuts holding 
> it all together, both fasteners had teak bungs over the fasteners.
> 
> My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use 
> stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together.  My plan 
> is to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner set, so I can 
> remove the the screws from inside, each winter.  I've already overbored and 
> redrilled and countersunk the deck holes, and will use butyl tape for 
> bedding.  This should provide a way to remove the long screws from inside 
> without removing the bungs on the outside handrails. 
> 
> https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A011/ 
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

All my devices are Apple and I’ve had no such trouble.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 7, 2022, at 12:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am not so sure that this is an Outlook (Exchange) problem. I see it in 
> Outlook, but also in Android Mail.
> 
> I speculate that some major update to one of the ecosystems (Android 12? 
> Outlook? Some iOS update?) created a change in how HTML emails are handled 
> (when they are send or when they are received). With enough of this list 
> members being affected by this change, we all see it, eventually.
> 
> Interestingly, I don't see this issue in any other list, forum, etc.
> 
> Marek
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Android-based can on a string
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
> Date: 2022-03-07 14:20 (GMT-05:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts
> 
> 
> Hi Stu
> 
> Try removing the Cutting Board footer at the end of each email.  I read 
> somewhere that this may be related to the problem
> 
> It seems to be an Outlook problem / Exchange problem
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Stu via CnC-List  
> Sent: March 7, 2022 2:52 PM
> To: C Email List 
> Cc: Stu 
> Subject: Stus-List List The attachments are driving me nuts
> 
> 
> Folks I have tried and tried to find the problem.  The IT group that 
> maintains our list program assure me it is not the problems. The program only 
> relays what is sent to it and makes no changes.
> 
> I tried contacting several email servers whose customers were experiencing 
> problems, and I might as well talk to the wind.
> 
> The problems are very sporadic and are not consistent by any means. I have 
> several email accounts all with different providers and do not any problems.  
> So I cannot relate to the problems.
> 
> I am still using Windows Live Mail from Windows Essentials (no longer
> available) and Thunderbird Mail.  Both programs access all of my email 
> accounts and neither has shown any problems.
> 
> I don't know what to suggest at this time except for you to experiment and 
> try a different email app on your smartphone, laptop or desktop computers.
> 
> I keep trying to find the problem and the solution but right now things do 
> not look good.
> 
> Stu
> 
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Ca508f372d77d471c0b1108da006f886a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637822776268614043%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=7PipX25CVx%2BBtN2yx4NmUZyG6QFuXuKypvu9qJ3GpFs%3Dreserved=0
>  
> 
> Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Ca508f372d77d471c0b1108da006f886a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637822776268614043%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=7PipX25CVx%2BBtN2yx4NmUZyG6QFuXuKypvu9qJ3GpFs%3Dreserved=0
>  
> Customized
>  C Cutting Boards available at:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

There are no links in this footer.

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hey Listers,

Remember this story?  Well, it got written up in this month’s issue of 
Caribbean Compass.  Starting on p.18 of 
https://www.caribbeancompass.com/online/compass_online.pdf.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Dec 4, 2021, at 5:05 PM, Randy Stafford  wrote:
> 
> Correct.  There were no medical emergencies.  The boat was afloat and not 
> leaking.  It had propulsion and it had steerage.  If assistance had not 
> arrived, the first dire issue they might have faced was running out of 
> drinking water.  The second might have been running out of food.  Once the 
> seas calmed enough to dive the prop, they were able to get back to a better 
> state (esp. since they had a watermaker on board).  A third issue they were 
> facing was running out of fuel to make landfall before running out of food.  
> So, a question to ponder, was this an emergency, or just a major and scary 
> inconvenience?
> 
> I had to go through that thought process on an offshore passage earlier this 
> year.  The boat I was on had a multi-cause steering failure in the middle of 
> the night, that required use of the emergency tiller while awaiting daylight 
> to fix a problem.  But we were afloat, not leaking, had propulsion and 
> steerage, no medical problems, and enough water, food, and fuel to make 
> landfall.  Not an emergency, but an exhausting and “exciting” night of 
> inconvenience.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
>> On Dec 4, 2021, at 3:37 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Bad as it sounds everybody stayed above the water. Right. That is what a 
>> boat is for in simplest terms
>> 
>> On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 6:30 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Here’s an overdue report on this situation.  Basically a tale of warning 
>> about what can go wrong offshore, with potentially very serious consequences.
>> 
>> By coincidence a few weeks ago I came into contact on Facebook with one of 
>> Calypso’s crew, a retired pediatrician.  We subsequently spoke on the phone, 
>> and she documented her experience on her Facebook timeline, which I’ll quote 
>> below.
>> 
>> Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been offshore.  
>> He found passage crew on findacrew.net <http://findacrew.net/>, and they too 
>> had never been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing experience).
>> 
>> The boat experienced a sequence of cascading problems on the passage, which 
>> put it and its crew in a very serious situation: no electricity, no engine, 
>> low fresh water, and broken forestay many hundreds of miles offshore.  The 
>> sequence started with problems furling an asym on a top-down furler.  That 
>> somehow caused problems with the genoa furler too: the genoa wouldn’t furl 
>> all the way in or out.  That in turn contributed to the forestay snapping 
>> when the wind picked up.  When that happened, the crew lashed the genoa down 
>> the length of the side deck, and fouled the prop with sheets or lashing 
>> lines.  The prop was fouled hard enough, in forward gear, that it wasn’t 
>> possible to shift to neutral.  So they couldn’t run the engine.  So they got 
>> down to 4% battery.  They had to shut off all electrical loads including 
>> radio, radar, GPS/AIS, lights, watermaker, and refrigerator.  They had to 
>> drift for two days waiting for seas to calm enough to dive the prop.  They 
>> lost refrigerated food and got down to 11% fresh water (with apparently no 
>> bottled water aboard).
>> 
>> If they had not been able to get off distress calls on their electronics and 
>> satellite phone before shutting down, they would have been in serious 
>> trouble.  Fortunately two other boats received notifications of Calypso’s 
>> distress and came to assist, accompanying the disabled boat for many days.  
>> They lent water and fuel, support and advice.  One of those boats was a 
>> Leopard 40 named Nobody’s Home in the Salty Dogs rally to Antigua, whose 
>> delivery captain was a man named Vinny, who is a friend of the delivery 
>> captain Scott of the boat I was on (a Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 named Quite 
>> The Catch).  We first heard about this whole situation when Vinny texted 
>> Scott via satphone.
>> 
>> Calypso departed from Hampton, VA on Saturday October 30th (day 1 for them) 
>> as part of the Salty Dogs rally.  My boat departed Newport, RI on Monday 
>> November 1st, bound for the USVI (not part of the rally).  Calypso's 
>> forestay snapped on their day 7 or 8: Saturday November 7th or Sunday 
>> November 8th. 

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Forestay Length

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Garry,

Today I measured my forestay using a tape measure hoisted on a genoa halyard.  
Its length was 40’ 1.5” with the turnbuckle more than halfway extended (photo 
at 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sxleLIDl3c1WqF-PZ0XumIcFVJU8toRb/view?usp=sharing).
  That’s from the masthead attachment point to the clevis pin holding the 
toggle to the chainplate.  That’s as accurate as I can get without going up the 
mast, or removing the forestay and measuring it stretched out on the ground.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 22, 2022, at 11:21 AM, Garry Cross  wrote:
> 
> Good to know. I should have looked it up. I had to get a new furler as my old 
> one broke. It was a bad mistake by me unstepping the mast. So the mast was 
> down. Got a new forestay as I had no idea the age of it. Sadly the new furler 
> tack attachment point was almost a foot higher. As a result required the #2 
> Genoa to be cut. Mast was up when I realized this. Measured with a tape 
> measure and the slider on the furler. 
> Turns out I should have subtracted some. I would say if the length was any 
> longer it would not be tight all the way up. .5 in shorter and I could then 
> tension the luff to a more desirable tension. Since it is in the slot all the 
> way up it looks fine. Just not perfect. 
> 
> On Sat, Jan 22, 2022 at 11:45 AM Randy Stafford  <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>> wrote:
> Thanks Garry.
> 
> J is defined as the horizontal length of the base of the foretriangle from 
> the landing point of the forestay on the deck to the front side of the mast.  
> For a 30 MK I that landing point is the chainplate at the top of the bow 
> stem.  A horizontal line aft from that point meets the front of the mast just 
> below the partners.  But I don’t think that invalidates the geometric 
> estimate of forestay length.
> 
> In any case, I’ll be measuring it this weekend using a tape on a genoa 
> halyard from the bow, and I'll report back.  I’ll have to compare the halyard 
> sheave height to the forestay attachment height and adjust the measurement 
> accordingly (I can’t go up the mast right now because the boat is 
> shrink-wrapped).
> 
> This is all for the purpose of determining the luff length for a new sail I’m 
> ordering to go on a new furler I have yet to install - a Selden Furlex 204S.  
> Selden has calculators for the luff length, that take the forestay length as 
> an input.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> SV Grenadine
> 
>> On Jan 22, 2022, at 9:01 AM, Garry Cross > <mailto:garr...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I doubt the geometric calculation you are using will work. A straight line 
>> at right angles to the mast will likely cross the bow line below where the 
>> forestay attaches.
>> If you have a halyard that turns near where the forestay attaches, you 
>> likely will get a closer approximation than the geometry method.
>> 
>> According to sailboatdata.com <http://sailboatdata.com/>
>> Est. Forestay Len: 41.27 ft / 12.58 m
>> Seems your calculation agrees with that. 
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 7:51 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Hello Listers,
>> 
>> Does anybody know the forestay length of a 30 MK I as it came from the 
>> factory, with the rig properly tuned for 8” of mast rake?
>> 
>> By geometry (square root of I squared plus J squared) I’d expect it to be in 
>> the neighborhood of 41’3”.  I is 39’ for a 30 MK I, and J is 13.5’.
>> 
>> According to the owner’s manual the forestay cable is 1/4” and the lower 
>> fitting is 1/2” jaw to jaw turnbuckle & toggle.  On mine, the 
>> cable is swaged into an eye fitting on the lower end, which is pinned to a 
>> turnbuckle screw that’s probably 1/2” jaw to jaw (if that’s what’s meant by 
>> the owner’s manual).  The screw at the other end of the turnbuckle is 
>> identical, and is pinned to a toggle that’s pinned to the bow stem.  Picture 
>> at 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing>.
>> 
>> I’m wondering if this is the standard from-the-factory setup, and what the 
>> overall forestay length is from pin at masthead to pin at bow stem, when the 
>> rig is properly tuned.
>> 
>> Thank You,
>> Randy Stafford
>> SV Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 30 MK I Forestay Length

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Garry.

J is defined as the horizontal length of the base of the foretriangle from the 
landing point of the forestay on the deck to the front side of the mast.  For a 
30 MK I that landing point is the chainplate at the top of the bow stem.  A 
horizontal line aft from that point meets the front of the mast just below the 
partners.  But I don’t think that invalidates the geometric estimate of 
forestay length.

In any case, I’ll be measuring it this weekend using a tape on a genoa halyard 
from the bow, and I'll report back.  I’ll have to compare the halyard sheave 
height to the forestay attachment height and adjust the measurement accordingly 
(I can’t go up the mast right now because the boat is shrink-wrapped).

This is all for the purpose of determining the luff length for a new sail I’m 
ordering to go on a new furler I have yet to install - a Selden Furlex 204S.  
Selden has calculators for the luff length, that take the forestay length as an 
input.

Cheers,
Randy
SV Grenadine

> On Jan 22, 2022, at 9:01 AM, Garry Cross  wrote:
> 
> I doubt the geometric calculation you are using will work. A straight line at 
> right angles to the mast will likely cross the bow line below where the 
> forestay attaches.
> If you have a halyard that turns near where the forestay attaches, you likely 
> will get a closer approximation than the geometry method.
> 
> According to sailboatdata.com <http://sailboatdata.com/>
> Est. Forestay Len: 41.27 ft / 12.58 m
> Seems your calculation agrees with that. 
> 
> 
> On Wed, Jan 19, 2022 at 7:51 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> 
> Does anybody know the forestay length of a 30 MK I as it came from the 
> factory, with the rig properly tuned for 8” of mast rake?
> 
> By geometry (square root of I squared plus J squared) I’d expect it to be in 
> the neighborhood of 41’3”.  I is 39’ for a 30 MK I, and J is 13.5’.
> 
> According to the owner’s manual the forestay cable is 1/4” and the lower 
> fitting is 1/2” jaw to jaw turnbuckle & toggle.  On mine, the 
> cable is swaged into an eye fitting on the lower end, which is pinned to a 
> turnbuckle screw that’s probably 1/2” jaw to jaw (if that’s what’s meant by 
> the owner’s manual).  The screw at the other end of the turnbuckle is 
> identical, and is pinned to a toggle that’s pinned to the bow stem.  Picture 
> at 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing
>  
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing>.
> 
> I’m wondering if this is the standard from-the-factory setup, and what the 
> overall forestay length is from pin at masthead to pin at bow stem, when the 
> rig is properly tuned.
> 
> Thank You,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 30 MK I Forestay Length

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

Does anybody know the forestay length of a 30 MK I as it came from the factory, 
with the rig properly tuned for 8” of mast rake?

By geometry (square root of I squared plus J squared) I’d expect it to be in 
the neighborhood of 41’3”.  I is 39’ for a 30 MK I, and J is 13.5’.

According to the owner’s manual the forestay cable is 1/4” and the lower 
fitting is 1/2” jaw to jaw turnbuckle & toggle.  On mine, the 
cable is swaged into an eye fitting on the lower end, which is pinned to a 
turnbuckle screw that’s probably 1/2” jaw to jaw (if that’s what’s meant by the 
owner’s manual).  The screw at the other end of the turnbuckle is identical, 
and is pinned to a toggle that’s pinned to the bow stem.  Picture at 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZT794BQaw0R8aWZCK9NqmVqRJ9K85VT9/view?usp=sharing.

I’m wondering if this is the standard from-the-factory setup, and what the 
overall forestay length is from pin at masthead to pin at bow stem, when the 
rig is properly tuned.

Thank You,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Stu, the ordering process worked for me this time, including paying you 
by PayPal.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 16, 2022, at 5:24 PM, stu--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Don – the problem has been fixed.  The phone box is there now.
>  
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Cutting Boards are ready

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Stu!

I just placed an order and selected PayPal for payment, but was never taken to 
the PayPal site during the process.  The final screen said:

"Thank you for your order.
Once we have received confirmation of your payment,
your order will be shipped.

Failure”

Was my order successfully placed, and how can I pay by PayPal?

Thanks Again,
Randy

> On Jan 14, 2022, at 10:35 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Finally – here is the link to order the C Cutting Boards --  
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/ 
> 
>  
> If you find problems with the site, please let me know ASAP.  Thanks.
>  
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New C Items

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Awesome!  Thank you Stu.  I would take one with SV Grenadine on it, please.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 10, 2022, at 11:48 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Coming soon – C galley/kitchen cutting board.
>  
> Approximate size – 14”H x 10”W x 1”  bamboo board.  Laser engraved so the 
> design is actually burned into the wood.
>  
> Your boat name can be added but no choice of font.  I cannot duplicate the 
> font on your boat.
>  
> Boards will be treated with cutting board oil.
>  
> Prices:
> a) C Logo only – $22.00 US
> b) C Logo and boat name $25.00  US
>  
> Shipping to
> Canada -- $14 US
> Continental USA – $17 US
>  
> Payment will be by check, money order or PayPal (preferred).
>  
> If there is enough interest, I will start taking orders.
>  
> Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
> Stu
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fun in the sun

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

You’re gonna love her.  Tough as nails.

From the fun in the sun department, I just got home from ten days in the USVI 
with my family on a Lagoon 46 I bareboated.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jan 6, 2022, at 10:42 PM, andrew macLean via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Ron. That seems like a pretty good idea. Not sure that we get quite 
> cold enough here for me to follow suit. I’m still new to our 30-1 and eager 
> to learn more about her proper care and feeding. 
> 
> Andrew
> C 30-1
> Gulf Islands, BC
> 
>> On Jan 6, 2022, at 21:34, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Water leaks in on a warmer day and then freezes before I can get to it and 
>> pump it out.  No auto pump.  Cheap anti-freeze works well 'til I visit the 
>> boat again.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> 
>> On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 11:11:53 PM CST, andrew macLean 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Ron, Why are you putting anti-freeze in the bilge?
>> 
>> Andrew
>> C 30-1
>> Gulf Islands, BC
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Correct.  There were no medical emergencies.  The boat was afloat and not 
leaking.  It had propulsion and it had steerage.  If assistance had not 
arrived, the first dire issue they might have faced was running out of drinking 
water.  The second might have been running out of food.  Once the seas calmed 
enough to dive the prop, they were able to get back to a better state (esp. 
since they had a watermaker on board).  A third issue they were facing was 
running out of fuel to make landfall before running out of food.  So, a 
question to ponder, was this an emergency, or just a major and scary 
inconvenience?

I had to go through that thought process on an offshore passage earlier this 
year.  The boat I was on had a multi-cause steering failure in the middle of 
the night, that required use of the emergency tiller while awaiting daylight to 
fix a problem.  But we were afloat, not leaking, had propulsion and steerage, 
no medical problems, and enough water, food, and fuel to make landfall.  Not an 
emergency, but an exhausting and “exciting” night of inconvenience.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Dec 4, 2021, at 3:37 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bad as it sounds everybody stayed above the water. Right. That is what a boat 
> is for in simplest terms
> 
> On Fri, Dec 3, 2021 at 6:30 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> Here’s an overdue report on this situation.  Basically a tale of warning 
> about what can go wrong offshore, with potentially very serious consequences.
> 
> By coincidence a few weeks ago I came into contact on Facebook with one of 
> Calypso’s crew, a retired pediatrician.  We subsequently spoke on the phone, 
> and she documented her experience on her Facebook timeline, which I’ll quote 
> below.
> 
> Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been offshore.  
> He found passage crew on findacrew.net <http://findacrew.net/>, and they too 
> had never been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing experience).
> 
> The boat experienced a sequence of cascading problems on the passage, which 
> put it and its crew in a very serious situation: no electricity, no engine, 
> low fresh water, and broken forestay many hundreds of miles offshore.  The 
> sequence started with problems furling an asym on a top-down furler.  That 
> somehow caused problems with the genoa furler too: the genoa wouldn’t furl 
> all the way in or out.  That in turn contributed to the forestay snapping 
> when the wind picked up.  When that happened, the crew lashed the genoa down 
> the length of the side deck, and fouled the prop with sheets or lashing 
> lines.  The prop was fouled hard enough, in forward gear, that it wasn’t 
> possible to shift to neutral.  So they couldn’t run the engine.  So they got 
> down to 4% battery.  They had to shut off all electrical loads including 
> radio, radar, GPS/AIS, lights, watermaker, and refrigerator.  They had to 
> drift for two days waiting for seas to calm enough to dive the prop.  They 
> lost refrigerated food and got down to 11% fresh water (with apparently no 
> bottled water aboard).
> 
> If they had not been able to get off distress calls on their electronics and 
> satellite phone before shutting down, they would have been in serious 
> trouble.  Fortunately two other boats received notifications of Calypso’s 
> distress and came to assist, accompanying the disabled boat for many days.  
> They lent water and fuel, support and advice.  One of those boats was a 
> Leopard 40 named Nobody’s Home in the Salty Dogs rally to Antigua, whose 
> delivery captain was a man named Vinny, who is a friend of the delivery 
> captain Scott of the boat I was on (a Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 named Quite 
> The Catch).  We first heard about this whole situation when Vinny texted 
> Scott via satphone.
> 
> Calypso departed from Hampton, VA on Saturday October 30th (day 1 for them) 
> as part of the Salty Dogs rally.  My boat departed Newport, RI on Monday 
> November 1st, bound for the USVI (not part of the rally).  Calypso's forestay 
> snapped on their day 7 or 8: Saturday November 7th or Sunday November 8th.  
> By that time there was a strong storm happening between the east coast and 
> Bermuda, which would slam New England several days later as a nor’easter 
> packing hurricane-strength winds. By Friday November 6th Chris Parker was 
> advising all boats in the vicinity to get as far south and east as possible, 
> as quickly as possible.  At that time, Quite The Catch was approaching 
> Bermuda, and we were seeing forecasts of >50kts on PredictWind southwest of 
> our position over the next couple days.  So we diverted SE two days and 400nm 
> out of our way to avoid that weather.  Calypso probably

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers,

Here’s an overdue report on this situation.  Basically a tale of warning about 
what can go wrong offshore, with potentially very serious consequences.

By coincidence a few weeks ago I came into contact on Facebook with one of 
Calypso’s crew, a retired pediatrician.  We subsequently spoke on the phone, 
and she documented her experience on her Facebook timeline, which I’ll quote 
below.

Calypso’s owner and captain is a 75-year old man who’d never been offshore.  He 
found passage crew on findacrew.net , and they too had 
never been offshore (and in two cases had little sailing experience).

The boat experienced a sequence of cascading problems on the passage, which put 
it and its crew in a very serious situation: no electricity, no engine, low 
fresh water, and broken forestay many hundreds of miles offshore.  The sequence 
started with problems furling an asym on a top-down furler.  That somehow 
caused problems with the genoa furler too: the genoa wouldn’t furl all the way 
in or out.  That in turn contributed to the forestay snapping when the wind 
picked up.  When that happened, the crew lashed the genoa down the length of 
the side deck, and fouled the prop with sheets or lashing lines.  The prop was 
fouled hard enough, in forward gear, that it wasn’t possible to shift to 
neutral.  So they couldn’t run the engine.  So they got down to 4% battery.  
They had to shut off all electrical loads including radio, radar, GPS/AIS, 
lights, watermaker, and refrigerator.  They had to drift for two days waiting 
for seas to calm enough to dive the prop.  They lost refrigerated food and got 
down to 11% fresh water (with apparently no bottled water aboard).

If they had not been able to get off distress calls on their electronics and 
satellite phone before shutting down, they would have been in serious trouble.  
Fortunately two other boats received notifications of Calypso’s distress and 
came to assist, accompanying the disabled boat for many days.  They lent water 
and fuel, support and advice.  One of those boats was a Leopard 40 named 
Nobody’s Home in the Salty Dogs rally to Antigua, whose delivery captain was a 
man named Vinny, who is a friend of the delivery captain Scott of the boat I 
was on (a Fountaine Pajot Saona 47 named Quite The Catch).  We first heard 
about this whole situation when Vinny texted Scott via satphone.

Calypso departed from Hampton, VA on Saturday October 30th (day 1 for them) as 
part of the Salty Dogs rally.  My boat departed Newport, RI on Monday November 
1st, bound for the USVI (not part of the rally).  Calypso's forestay snapped on 
their day 7 or 8: Saturday November 7th or Sunday November 8th.  By that time 
there was a strong storm happening between the east coast and Bermuda, which 
would slam New England several days later as a nor’easter packing 
hurricane-strength winds. By Friday November 6th Chris Parker was advising all 
boats in the vicinity to get as far south and east as possible, as quickly as 
possible.  At that time, Quite The Catch was approaching Bermuda, and we were 
seeing forecasts of >50kts on PredictWind southwest of our position over the 
next couple days.  So we diverted SE two days and 400nm out of our way to avoid 
that weather.  Calypso probably sailed right through it, but the max wind 
strength they saw (at least, while they had instrumentation) was 37 knots.

Calypso was able to compensate for the broken forestay using halyards to the 
bow stem.  They got her prop unfouled and engine started and batteries charged. 
 Then she was able to limp along under reefed main.  Unbelievably, despite all 
that and a subsequently broken autopilot, her captain wanted to continue to 
Antigua and was requesting fuel!  On the evening of Thursday November 11th, as 
navigator on Quite The Catch, I plotted an intercept course to backtrack eight 
hours to Calypso and give her fuel, but we decided not to do it.

When Calyspo got far enough south to hit the easterly trade winds, her captain 
wanted to start tacking upwind to Antigua, starting with a NE leg.  At that 
point her crew mutinied, and forced the captain to turn towards the USVI.  She 
arrived in St. Thomas on November 15th after 16 days at sea from Hampton, VA.  
By contrast my boat arrived on November 12th after 12 days at sea from Newport, 
RI (two of which were extra days for weather routing).  

Learn what you will from this saga.  Now I will paste the crew member’s 
Facebook postings, in the order in which she posted them.

"Wow! Where to start?? We just spent 16 days at sea and ended up in the US 
Virgin Islands instead of Antigua. Lots of stuff on the boat broke and because 
of it we couldn’t sail east into the wind to get there. We anticipate being 
able to pick up another sailboat from here and continue to explore the 
Caribbean.  Here are some pretty sunrises and sunsets while I process how to 
share this story.”

"Days 3-6: Our trip was supposed to be 

Stus-List Re: C to race - cold weather discussion topic

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I agree on “so many variables.”  Prevailing conditions may be most important.  
If it’s blowing 20+, I beat the fleet with my 30 MK I.  But where I race, that 
kind of wind only happens a couple times per season.  I didn’t set out to buy 
and rig the optimal boat to win club races at my local waters.

So I think it’s totally context-dependent.  If the objective is to win handicap 
races (in some locale presumably, with its prevailing conditions), then buy the 
right C for the prevailing conditions in that locale.

This offseason I’m spending a bunch of boat bucks on sails and rigging - new 
genoa, on a furler, plus new sprit and top-down furler for a new asym.  All 
that will make me more competitive as my fleet has evolved to asyms over the 
last couple years.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Nov 29, 2021, at 2:42 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> So many variables.  Location, prevailing conditions, local coastal or 
> offshore events.
> I would probably lean towards a 34R with new sails including an Assym and 
> Symmetrical Chute, a baby smooth bottom job, and really good beer so I could 
> attract the best possible crew.  And let someone really good drive because I 
> am terrible driving upwind.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> S/V Half Magic 
> Padanaram MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 29, 2021, at 3:58 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> If one was to buy a C to totally trick out for handicap racing, which 
>> model would you buy and why?
>> 
>> What modifications would you make if you had a bunch of boat bucks?
>> 
>> !!!  Don't forget to trim your responses if this thread builds.  !!!
>> 
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Half-Hull Model

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Happy Fall, Listers.

This week I received a half-hull model of Grenadine that I’d ordered from Mas 
Azuma of Zuma Boat, Inc. (https://www.halfhull.net/index.htm 
).

He did really beautiful work, and his price was very fair.  Plus he was very 
professional and easy to work with throughout the entire process.

I’ve posted pictures of Grenadine’s half-hull model at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ah_YnneloTWL9emJecm9NVcGiKLZL26l?usp=sharing
 
.
  For a sense of scale, the backboard is 30”x12”.

If you’re interested in a half-hull model of your boat, I highly recommend Mas 
Azuma.  The only caveat is you have to be patient; you can’t rush craftsmanship.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, COThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Used spinnaker

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I bought a used asymmetrical spinnaker from a guy on the C Owners Facebook 
group who was selling his 30 MK I, and got ripped off.  The sail was short on 
the hoist, and he knew it before he sold it to me, but represented it was made 
for a 30 MK I.

Buyer beware.

Randy

> On Oct 12, 2021, at 11:53 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I bought a new 140 foresail from Precision Sails in Canada for my 34 c for 
> $2,600 including shipping.  Delivery in 8 weeks.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, October 11, 2021 2:28:47 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Used spinnaker
>  
> Big loss. What were you doing flying that kite in a big wind. Lots of power 
> or what
> 
> On Mon, Oct 11, 2021 at 5:37 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Yesterday my 3/4 oz. chute exploded in a big wind. 
> Now I am looking for a used replacement. Lead time to get a new one more than 
> 6 months. 
> So,if there are any C 44 listers out there with a chute to sell, I am 
> interested. 
> Fred Hazzard 
> C 44
> S/V Fury 
> Portland Or 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>   Thanks - Stu
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: help with hull numbers

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Andrew,

You have decoded correctly.  Except technically 0474 is the month and year that 
C Yachts certified your boat met all the regulations it was supposed to meet 
(according to 
https://newboatbuilders.com/docs/HIN-101-for-boat-owners-part2.pdf 
).

I own 30 MK I hull #79 which was built in 1972 before HINs were standardized.  
My boat’s HIN is simply 30007972.  I confirmed via Rob Ball and Rob Mazza that 
I have hull #79, built in 1972 (I initially thought I had hull #7).  Rick 
Bushie on this list has hull #1, named Anchovy, and it was built in 1971.  He 
previously wrote: "The I.D. plate on Anchovy reads as follows: 30  1  71.  No 
zeros, no month.”

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
SV Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Oct 7, 2021, at 6:14 PM, andrew_m--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi! I’m the proud owner of a C 30 mk1 with HIN CCY302810474. I’m trying to 
> work out what hull number I have. From what I’ve googled the “0474” tells me 
> she was built in April of 1974, the “CCY30” tells me she’s a C 30 mk1, and 
> the “281” says she’s hull number 281 ??? April 1974 seems a little early in 
> the production run to have made 280 boats. Can anyone help me decode the HIN?
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I use a dousing sock for moments like these :)

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 6, 2021, at 12:22 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Samarai douse?
>  
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2021 2:18 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>; 
> Randy Stafford  <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: leeward layline
>  
> Yes, I had to file a report with the Foredeck Union on Sunday, as my helmsman 
> gybed my boat before I was ready to gybe the spin pole, and of course there 
> was an unfortunate wind shift at that exact moment too, and as a result we 
> had a general spinnaker shit show that required a complete douse to sort out, 
> while our main competitor with whom we’d been overlapped and in a tactical 
> duel sailed away from us.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> 
>> On Oct 6, 2021, at 10:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> Hi Bob
>>  
>> If you are happy with your speed on current angle then gybe when true wind 
>> angle is the same on the opposite gybe.  Sure sounds simple but most of us 
>> gybe too late or too early.
>>  
>> Too early on a light wind day means that you will end up sailing deeper and 
>> slower than you intended or performing extra gybes.
>>  
>> Too late on a breezy day means that you will end up with wind more forward 
>> than you would prefer and perhaps have a bit of a sporty approach to the mark
>>  
>> And of course contrary to what most tacticians and drivers like to think 
>> gybing does involve sail handling and a potential for error.  This can be 
>> detrimental to boat speed since not all gybes are performed equally and some 
>> can in fact be very amusing to your competitors.  This fact is why there is 
>> a Foredeck Union
>>  
>> Mike Hoyt
>> Persistence
>> Halifax, NS
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: leeward layline

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Yes, I had to file a report with the Foredeck Union on Sunday, as my helmsman 
gybed my boat before I was ready to gybe the spin pole, and of course there was 
an unfortunate wind shift at that exact moment too, and as a result we had a 
general spinnaker shit show that required a complete douse to sort out, while 
our main competitor with whom we’d been overlapped and in a tactical duel 
sailed away from us.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 6, 2021, at 10:42 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bob
>  
> If you are happy with your speed on current angle then gybe when true wind 
> angle is the same on the opposite gybe.  Sure sounds simple but most of us 
> gybe too late or too early.
>  
> Too early on a light wind day means that you will end up sailing deeper and 
> slower than you intended or performing extra gybes.
>  
> Too late on a breezy day means that you will end up with wind more forward 
> than you would prefer and perhaps have a bit of a sporty approach to the mark
>  
> And of course contrary to what most tacticians and drivers like to think 
> gybing does involve sail handling and a potential for error.  This can be 
> detrimental to boat speed since not all gybes are performed equally and some 
> can in fact be very amusing to your competitors.  This fact is why there is a 
> Foredeck Union
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Dodged a bullet.

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Holy crap!  Glad you weren’t affected!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 29, 2021, at 7:55 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 3 slips from ours.  
> 
> https://www.king5.com/article/tech/science/environment/cleanup-underway-at-vashon-yacht-club-where-boats-caught-fire-sank/281-40d71613-2311-4f72-a6ed-1c538c4514b5
>  
> 
> 
> Whew!
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Dave.  Yes that is correct.  Grenadine currently has separate 
through-hulls for depth transducer and speed transducer, to port and starboard 
respectively, aft of the keel and outboard by a foot or so.  My new system has 
a single DST transducer which the manufacturer recommends go through the hull 
forward of the keel and where the deadrise isn’t steep.  The correct long-term 
solution would be to glass in the current two transducer through-hulls, and cut 
a new one in the correct location for the new DST transducer.  If the new 
transducer insert will fit in one of the current through-hulls, then I have 
options.  If not I have no choice but to cut a new hole, and I can wait to 
remove the current transducer and glass over their holes.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Mar 23, 2021, at 4:58 AM, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> If I get the math you are going from two through hulls to one - I did the 
> same and removed my overboard discharge at the same time.  
> 
> Why not eliminate the unused holes?  It needs to be done properly for sure 
> but it’s not difficult.  
> 
> Some pics here:
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1
>  
> <http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1>
> 
> Dave 
> 33-2
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 2:38 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I appeal to your collective wisdom here.  Over the offseason I acquired a 
>> new instrument system for Grenadine, including a new DST transducer which 
>> goes through the hull.  I’m debating whether to reuse an existing 
>> through-hull hole (for the old speed or depth sensor), or cut a new one.  
>> The manufacturer of my new DST transducer recommends locating it forward of 
>> the keel, whereas my current transducer through-hulls are aft of the keel.  
>> On the other hand I’d like to not cut new holes through my hull if not 
>> absolutely necessary.  What say you?  Also, what kind of sealant do y’all 
>> recommend for bedding a through-hull?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers,

I appeal to your collective wisdom here.  Over the offseason I acquired a new 
instrument system for Grenadine, including a new DST transducer which goes 
through the hull.  I’m debating whether to reuse an existing through-hull hole 
(for the old speed or depth sensor), or cut a new one.  The manufacturer of my 
new DST transducer recommends locating it forward of the keel, whereas my 
current transducer through-hulls are aft of the keel.  On the other hand I’d 
like to not cut new holes through my hull if not absolutely necessary.  What 
say you?  Also, what kind of sealant do y’all recommend for bedding a 
through-hull?

Thanks,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Early C mk1

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Charles,

Bummer about the yard’s strap placement.  I’ve got hull #79.  There are a 
couple of pretty close-up pics of the strut in 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTbHRCcy1saUxTM3M?usp=sharing 
from when I installed a folding prop.  Without double-checking at the boat, 
from the pics it looks like the angles are square from the strut base to the 
strut arm, in both the roll and pitch axes.  But it cants to port just because 
of where & how it’s mounted on the hull.  I’ll be down at the yard Friday and 
will try to remember to take a close look / more pics.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Feb 22, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Cleverboy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> @Lewis Cooke, Thanks for looking. My hull is 305, from 1973. It would be a 
> number that might be on the prop strut. I'm assuming that your prop shaft is 
> also off center. I'm wondering if it also looks tilted to port. I know it's 
> off center to port but is the strut also tilted in that way?
> 
> Charles Ferrari
> s/v Destrier
> C 30 mk1 #305
> Bronx, NY
> From: Lewis Cooke via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, February 22, 2021 7:24 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Lewis Cooke 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Early C mk1
>  
> Hello Charles,
>  I have hull #45, Next time I go down to check on her I will look to see if 
> there are any markings on the shaft.
>
> Lewis Cooke
> S/V For Play
> C 30-1 #45
> Lorain, OH
> 
> On Feb 22, 2021 12:34 PM, "Cleverboy via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> While it's snowing, planning still goes on. I am trying to find a prop strut 
> for an early C 30 mk1 with the offset prop shaft. It appears that in 
> pulling the boat the rear strap overlapped the prop shaft putting a bend in 
> it so when starting it the following summer the oscillations almost 
> immediately snapped the strut. The boatyard denied all responsibility. I had 
> a propeller shop make me a new one out of stainless steel. Still, I would 
> like to have what the boat came with. Algonquin iron works may have made the 
> original but my strut did not have a casting number on it and they said I 
> absolutely needed a casting number as they have countless molds but not 
> stored by application. I tried boat salvage but no luck. This year, I'm 
> planning on completely unbolting the Atomic 4 and spending the time on 
> mounting the strut so the new shaft slides through the cutlass and stuffing 
> box. Hopefully, remounting the engine to mate. Any input or insight would be 
> appreciated. I do my own work and enjoy the time spent if it actually makes 
> for progress.
> 
> 
> Charles Ferrari
> Destrier
> C 30 mk1
> Bronx, NY
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Why race? How did you learn?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

“Why do others race?  How did you learn?”

For me it’s like any other pursuit - skiing, bicycling, golf, tennis, whatever 
- if you go out with people who are better than you, you’ll learn and improve.

That’s why I started out crewing on other people’s boats.  Besides rehearsing 
basic blocking and tackling, I got to see different techniques and leadership 
styles.  To quote Jimmy Buffett, “and I learned much from both of their styles.”

The main reason I race now is because it gets me out sailing regularly with 
good friends.  April through October it’s a big part of the general rhythm of 
life.  A highlight of the week, to go out on Wednesday night with my buddies 
and have a good time and try to win.

Cheers, Randy
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jan 30, 2021, at 10:51 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Why race?
>  
> If you consider the benefits of racing; learning to sail better, getting a 
> boat to perform at it's highest efficiency, learning how to trim sails 
> properly, learning to use the tide and currents, learning a few racing rules 
> and signal flags, learning how to develop and manage crew members, building a 
> team, etc.   I enjoyed the challenge and personal growth that came with it 
> and I'm grateful for all the people I met along the journey.  
>  
> Racing has a stigma about it that diehard cruisers avoid at all costs.  Cost 
> being the most important.  Risk of collision and risk of breakage is another. 
>  Next is prep time.  Next is learning new skills associated with learning the 
> start sequence, flag signals, racing rules, etc.
>  
> I followed the cautious route learning to race my boat.  I crewed on some 
> racing boats and learned the start sequence and how to get round the course 
> and then had some experienced racers coach me aboard my boat on a couple 
> races.  It made the greatest difference to have their experience and skills 
> to make the races safe and I would encourage any yachtclub to foster that 
> program of coaching cruisers in a few races.  I was lucky and found some 
> really good guys to help me learn.  My mentors were soft spoken experts who 
> were firm but never raised their voices, so all my pickup crew members had 
> total respect for their wisdom and we prepped the bottom and I had good sails 
> and we did very well.
>  
> Why do others race?  How did you learn?
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck G,

No, Ranger guy didn’t take a PRHF hit - which shows one of the many problems 
with PHRF in my RSA.  For his rating with the asym, our scorer and handicapper 
just used his spinnaker rating as if he was flying a symmetrical.

Yes if your son stays out here this summer, there are several good sailing 
scenes (Chatfield, Cherry Creek, Dillon) he can connect to.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 21, 2021, at 12:47 PM, Novabraid via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> From a different Chuck:
> Randy,
> Did the Ranger dude take a rating penalty for the sprit?  Also, if my son 
> stays out in Colorado this summer between semesters at CSU, you’ll have 
> access to an awesome bowman with tons of Asym experience (as well as 
> conventional).  He’ll be looking for a ride for sure..
> Cheers,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> Landfall 35
>  
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 2:29 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  <mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>; Randy Stafford  <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Sprits and Asyms
>  
> Chuck did you get a furler for your asym?  A top-down furler?  Guy in my club 
> got one (and an asym) for his Ranger 28 last season and immediately kicked my 
> ass with it.  Takes him about a minute to furl his upwind sail, unfurl the 
> asym, and start accelerating.
>  
> He built a homemade bowsprit and, though it looks clunky, it works well 
> enough to beat me downwind :)
>  
> I looked at the Selden sprits too.  I may have to join the arms race in my 
> club.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> 
>> On Jan 21, 2021, at 12:12 PM, cenelson via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> I’d be interested in how your new sprit changes your PHRF rating. 
>>  
>> I have thought about adding a sprit as well for limited crew racing or 
>> cruising and the Seldon looks well engineered.
>>  
>> In my case, my anchor roller complicates the matter in terms of fitting the 
>> sprit pole but the rating hit is 
>> is also an issue.
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 
>> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
>> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
>> On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 12:46 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>> My two cents:  Spartite looks like the best solution however it still needs 
>>> a boot to protect from UVs and the price is too high for me.  Similar to 
>>> PropSpeed, it's a good product but too much money for the benefit offered. 
>>>   
>>> I'm not cheap.  I just ordered a Selden bow sprit kit.  Very expensive but 
>>> couldn't figure out how to build my own as well engineered.  Bought a used 
>>> Asym for it last year.  The sprit will add some fun to downwind sailing on  
>>> Chesapeake Bay and make it easier to solo. 
>>>   
>>> Chuck  
>>>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Sprits and Asyms

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Chuck did you get a furler for your asym?  A top-down furler?  Guy in my club 
got one (and an asym) for his Ranger 28 last season and immediately kicked my 
ass with it.  Takes him about a minute to furl his upwind sail, unfurl the 
asym, and start accelerating.

He built a homemade bowsprit and, though it looks clunky, it works well enough 
to beat me downwind :)

I looked at the Selden sprits too.  I may have to join the arms race in my club.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jan 21, 2021, at 12:12 PM, cenelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I’d be interested in how your new sprit changes your PHRF rating. 
> 
> I have thought about adding a sprit as well for limited crew racing or 
> cruising and the Seldon looks well engineered.
> 
> In my case, my anchor roller complicates the matter in terms of fitting the 
> sprit pole but the rating hit is 
> is also an issue.
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 12:46 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My two cents:  Spartite looks like the best solution however it still needs a 
> boot to protect from UVs and the price is too high for me.  Similar to 
> PropSpeed, it's a good product but too much money for the benefit offered.
>  
> I'm not cheap.  I just ordered a Selden bow sprit kit.  Very expensive but 
> couldn't figure out how to build my own as well engineered.  Bought a used 
> Asym for it last year.  The sprit will add some fun to downwind sailing on  
> Chesapeake Bay and make it easier to solo.
>  
> Chuck 
>  
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: loose mast wedges

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

The damned things are my nemesis.  My 30 MK I came with wooden wedges which 
were always falling out.  I bought a dozen rubber NGA-19 from Rig Rite 
(https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php 
) and they’re better 
but they still fall out.  Others on the list use spar-tite, a semi-permanent 
“plug” you pour between mast and partners.  I’ll probably go to it next.  
Apparently you can still pull the mast after pouring the plug but it’s a tight 
fit.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:09 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Risking another topic in tandem with my windlass question. Don’t think 
> they’re easily confused, but we can try;)
> 
> When we purchased Sirius in October, the wood wedges at the deck mast hole 
> were all low and fairly tight. Now, after a few sails and seasonal changes 
> (not sure that matters), they have all worked upward and a few are loose. Is 
> it important to keep these tightly wedged, and if so, how do I keep them from 
> drifting upward?
> 
> Without removing the boot, I’d like to try looping some light spectra around 
> the top of the loose wedge, then a block at the bottom of the loop to pound 
> it down. Feedback welcome.
> 
> Found this interesting article on the merits of wood wedging:
> 
> https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/2/29/wedging-the-mast-deck-partner
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Crazy hurricane thing

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Oh the stories you will tell, Dennis.  Glad to hear Touche is home safe.  What 
a crazy summer for you!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Nov 7, 2020, at 4:03 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> When we splashed Touche' after the Hurricane Sally repairs, we noticed a 
> strange thing.  When we fired up the air conditioner, the cooling water was 
> much reduced from normal.  I have a tee in the line and an adaptor to attach 
> a dock hose.  I also have a valve on the discharge thru hull.
> 
> I attached the dock hose, closed the discharge valve and blasted the line 
> upstream through the inlet.  I then closed the inlet valve, opened the 
> discharge valve and blasted downstream.  Afterwards, the flow was much 
> improved.
> 
> That got us wondering about the rest of the drains, scuppers, etc.  Sure 
> enough, the head sink drain was completely plugged.  Amazing that, in a 
> marina, the boat moved enough that the stuff could "pump" its way onto the 
> counter.  We blew it out with dock water pressure.  See the picture linked 
> below.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cf0QdaiP1rqt-LYtH2Yb2Pft-8w0lMuA/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> The galley sink drain was also plugged and required disassembly to clear.  We 
> blew out the cockpit scuppers.
> 
> After some head scratching, we decided the pluggage was vegetative debris 
> which somehow entered the thruhulls during the storm, floated on top of the 
> water columns and then agglomerated once things calmed down.  Yes, all the 
> thru hull valves were open.
> 
> Only the drains which were open to the atmosphere were affected.  Those that 
> had configurations that prevented free flow, the engine intake and head 
> intake were not affected.
> 
> Just a crazy hurricane thing.
> 
> Touche' is back in Louisiana now safe and secure in its home slip in 
> Mandeville.
> 30°20'59.29"N  90° 3'14.42"W
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks John and Tom.  In hindsight I’m not convinced I had a stuck valve, but 
did the Marvel Mystery Oil trick just for good measure.  I think it’s more 
likely that my carb’s idle jet might have been partially blocked.  Or that my 
dirty flame arrestor screen wasn’t allowing sufficient airflow at idle.  Today 
I ran some BG 44K fuel system cleaner through the A4 for ~10 minutes, with the 
flame arrestor off, and the engine idled and ran great.  I always fog the 
cylinders with Stabil fogging oil too, when laying up for winter.  And change 
the oil.  I motor at most 30 hours per year, and that’s a generous estimate.  I 
can go a whole season on one tank of gas - this year’s end-of-season refill was 
only 13 gallons (in a 20-gallon tank).

Cheers,
Randy

> On Nov 1, 2020, at 1:11 PM, Tom Buscaglia  wrote:
> 
> Randy
> 
> My 35 MK1 had an A4.  I ended up pulling the head and refacing the carb 
> before it got smooth.  I also had to flush out the cooling jacked in the 
> engine.  
> 
> AS far as rough running, yes to Marvel.  IN addition to the carb, you may 
> also want to pull the spark plug and pour a little into each cylinder.  And 
> while you have the spark plug out you can try to see the valves and release a 
> stuck valve (if that's your issue) by putting a screwdriver into the cylinder 
> through the spark plug whole and seeing if you can push the stuck valve down. 
>  Just manually rotate the crank a few times to make sure you can check them 
> all.  It is a standard flathead configuration, if that helps.  That actually 
> worked for me on one valve.
> 
> The oth4 trouble po9nt as the carb.  My 35 had been sitting for a few year 
> and the float in the carb was filled with a growth that resembled the inside 
> of a malted milk ball.  
> 
> Finally, you can get a tome of support and parts for your A4 at 
> https://moyermarine.com/ <https://moyermarine.com/>.  I could not have done 
> my engine tear down without their support.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 09:54 AM 11/1/2020, you wrote:
>> Content-Language: en-CA
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>  
>> boundary="_000_DM6PR01MB5419240A001436046ABCBC91BA130DM6PR01MB5419prod_"
>> 
>> Strong  believer in this stuff. Half a bottle per tankful. If you have not 
>> emptied the tank this fall, add STABIL or a preservative. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 
>> 10
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Sent: November 1, 2020 9:30 AM
>> To: Stus-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: Randy Stafford <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the 
>> carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. > <mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
>> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
>> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
>> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>> 
>>   -- 
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor > <mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
>> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
>> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
>> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
>> power and smooth running!
>> 
>> James
>> 
>> Delaney
>> 
>> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
>> 
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh, I did the deed today.  Removed the flame arrestor (and cleaned its 
screen thoroughly while it was off), and poured Marvel Mystery Oil into the 
carb’s air intake several times over the course of a ~10-minute engine run.  It 
did produce clouds of smoke and lower the RPM the first few times.  Probably 
used 2-3 ounces in total.  I’m confident the valves are lubed now :)  Video on 
the Facebook C owner’s group, if you’re a member.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Nov 1, 2020, at 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> You need to add just enough to do the job.  You'll know you did too much when 
> the engine dies.  You'll know you did too little when no smoke or no 
> improvement in performance.
> 
> A pinch? 
> 
> A splash?
> 
> A dash? 
> 
> A dribble?
> 
> I know, not very helpful!  Haha
> 
> If you have to pour from the bottle then just tip in a drizzle - enough for 
> smoke and rpm change.  Wait for the smoke to clear and the engine to return 
> to normal, then repeat... As the engine cleans up it will tolerate more and 
> more and the RPM will smooth.  If you want more precision, a teaspoon (5ml) 
> would be reasonable starting point.  A less messy way is to go to the epoxy 
> isle at west marine and get a 50ml syringe.  With the syringe you can just 
> meter it in nice and easy.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 09:30 Randy Stafford via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the 
> carb’s air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
> 
>> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C. > <mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
>> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
>> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
>> 
>> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
>> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>>   -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor > <mailto:jtsai...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
>> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
>> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
>> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
>> power and smooth running!
>> James
>> Delaney
>> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
>> Oriental, NC
>> 
>> 
>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
>> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

When you do this trick, how much Marvel Mystery Oil do you pour into the carb’s 
air intake?  A teaspoon?  An ounce?

Thanks,
Randy

> On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Old shade tree mechanic trick.  Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff.  However, 
> when I did it I used automatic transmission fluid.  The AT4 I was 
> resuscitating hadn't been run in over 10 years.  Brought it back to life.
> 
> I also did it late one Sunday evening after all my dock neighbors had left.  
> I WILL make a cloud.  :)
>   -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM james taylor  > wrote:
> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
> power and smooth running!
> James
> Delaney
> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
> Oriental, NC
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Touche' hurricane repair progress

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Wow Dennis, she looks fantastic!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 5:33 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> The repairs to Touche' from Hurricane Sally are progressing well.  From this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TDqinFU9_oADHeFNxPgwFKHUoYLbR7gP/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CmFi5TTPXsPhFgN3MvqFayt7_hpNfi7J/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> To this:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QAGmZ4qATCD4oDKd7ZmZttDDvE1wTMi9/view?usp=sharing
>  
> 
> 
> Repairs and new bottom paint should be complete by the end of next week, 
> weather permitting.  Touche' will be a new boat!
> 
> The sad part is Touche's pier in Pensacola was severely damaged during the 
> storm and must be rebuilt.  I will have to bring Touche' back to my other 
> slip in Louisiana for a few months.  It also means there is no place to dock 
> Touche' after splashing in order to provision it for the trip.  Since the now 
> condemned pier was at the same shipyard, they have been very accommodating 
> since Touche' was a long term tenant.  I scheduled the last slot for their 
> work week for splash next Friday.  Since the haul out bay will not be needed 
> until Monday morning, the shipyard is allowing me to keep the boat in the 
> haul out bay for the weekend.  We'll provision it and depart Saturday.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks James, that’s a good hypothesis.  The observed behavior almost strikes 
me as one of the cylinders missing, as if it’s running on three cylinders.  
I’ll go pick up a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and try the procedure you 
recommend.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 12, 2020, at 3:32 PM, james taylor  wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a sticking valve. Very common with an A4 and very easy to fix. 
> With the engine running at moderate rpms, pour a little Marvel Mystery Oil 
> into the carb air intake. Do this a couple of times and marvel at the smoke 
> cloud! This will usually free up a stuck valve and return the engine to full 
> power and smooth running!
> James
> Delaney
> C 38 Mk2 #100 (with an A4)
> Oriental, NC
> 
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 4:03 PM Robert Mazza  <mailto:robertlma...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Could be a clogged idle jet in the carburetor. Moyer has an excellent video 
> on YouTube on clearing the carburetor jets. 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 3:55 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello Listers,
> 
> The last several times I’ve taken out my 30 MK I, her A4 has been running 
> rough, especially at low RPM (sometimes quitting at idle).
> 
> I have the Moyer manuals, and will start a diagnostic procedure.  But wanted 
> to check the collective wisdom here.
> 
> My first instinct is fuel flow.  I motor so little I can generally go all 
> season on one tank.  This being late in the season, I wonder if I’m down to 
> some sludge in the tank and my fuel filter is clogged.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

At that time when we were heading out, we were motoring into ~50mph gusts.  I 
have another problem (which I know how to fix, and have the gasket to do the 
job), which is that my A4 slips out of gear when under too much load.  So I 
couldn’t throttle up more in that video you saw.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 12, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> I see what you mean, I noticed you were motoring pretty slowly into the wind 
> yesterday.  Or was that the 50 Knots winds . . .?
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
> 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List A4 Running Rough
> 
> Hello Listers,
> 
> The last several times I’ve taken out my 30 MK I, her A4 has been running 
> rough, especially at low RPM (sometimes quitting at idle).
> 
> I have the Moyer manuals, and will start a diagnostic procedure.  But wanted 
> to check the collective wisdom here.
> 
> My first instinct is fuel flow.  I motor so little I can generally go all 
> season on one tank.  This being late in the season, I wonder if I’m down to 
> some sludge in the tank and my fuel filter is clogged.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List A4 Running Rough

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

The last several times I’ve taken out my 30 MK I, her A4 has been running 
rough, especially at low RPM (sometimes quitting at idle).

I have the Moyer manuals, and will start a diagnostic procedure.  But wanted to 
check the collective wisdom here.

My first instinct is fuel flow.  I motor so little I can generally go all 
season on one tank.  This being late in the season, I wonder if I’m down to 
some sludge in the tank and my fuel filter is clogged.

Cheers,
Randy
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List C MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,

I documented my mast step rebuild project on my 30 MK I - see 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM/view?usp=sharing 


Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 31, 2020, at 11:41 AM, Lee Goss via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dear C List members,
> 
> I have a C MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the mast 
> sank about 4 or 5 inches!
> 
> We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But we 
> won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.
> 
> We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of the 
> season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to do 
> this?
> 
> Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast step 
> or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate it. At this 
> point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't know precisely what 
> we're going to need to make the repair.
> 
> For reference: here's photos of the damage: 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA 
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance for any help.
> Lee 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List First Virtual Rendezvous

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Stu I apologize for missing it.  I’d just gotten home from a Wyoming trip in my 
land yacht.  Looking forward to joining the next one.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Aug 3, 2020, at 7:34 PM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Our 1st virtual zoom rendezvous was an absolute success.  People that showed 
> an interest were sent a personal invitation to participate.  Owners from the 
> West Coast, East Coast, Gulf of Mexico, New England and Canada participated.
>  
> Basically, it was a greet and meet and then an open discussion and some 
> great, varied conversations took place.
>  
> This was a first for us and maybe for boating enthusiasts world-wide.
>  
> I am planning another rendezvous in the near future and would like some 
> suggestions.  Should it be just a greet and meet and then open discussion or 
> should we narrow in on a specific topic.  Let me know your ideas.
>  
> Stu
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Steaming and Deck Light

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I installed one of the less expensive MarineBeam steaming/deck lights on 
Grenadine’s mast before the start of the 2019 season, as part of an overhaul of 
the mast’s lights and wiring (switched from incandescent to LED, switched to 
proper marine-grade wiring).

The electronic part of the light has been good.  I got the red/white switchable 
model, and use the red in combination with my blue LED spreader light from West 
Marine, gives me some real disco-looking fuchsia sails at night.

However the housing is sub-par.  You fasten it to the mast with screws through 
the holes in those plastic “wings”.  Earlier this season a halyard fouled on 
the tip of the starboard wings and tore it off the screw, leaving the fixture 
flapping from the port screw and making an even bigger fouling hazard.  I’ve 
done a couple quick fixes with tape, but will have to drill more holes in the 
damaged wing (and my mast) to properly secure the thing.

I’d look for one made of sturdier materials.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 28, 2020, at 8:42 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This one is reasonably priced and good quality:  
> https://store.marinebeam.com/economy-series-25-led-deck-and-masthead-navigation-light-mast-mounted/
>  
> 
> 
> If you want to spend more, there is this one:  
> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ 
>   
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On Tue, 28 Jul 2020 at 23:38, Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> 
>  
> 
> I have a 1979 C 34. After a recent trip up the mast I discovered I really 
> need to replace my steaming and deck lights. Any recommendations or 
> suggestion appreciated.
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you.
> 
>  
> 
> Brian Morrison
> 
> Baltimore, MD
> 
>  
> 
> Sent from Mail  for Windows 10
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Folding deck chairs

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I watched a lot of my daughters’ volleyball games sitting on a product like 
this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Flash-Furniture-Seats-Stadium-Ultra-Padded/dp/B01DF0467O 

 or this: 
https://www.amazon.com/Smartxchoices-Portable-Bleacher-Shoulder-Lightweight/dp/B07NC9HQDZ
 
.
  Beats hell out of wooden bleachers for hours on end.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 24, 2020, at 8:16 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We do not have cockpit cushions an Aries, so have been considering some sort 
> of folding deck chair as a substitute for the rare times we are sitting in 
> the cockpit or deck at anchor/mooring/slip.  I have seen various types of 
> folding chairs at Boat Shows and Amazon.  Have people had good experiences 
> with any of these products that they can recommend?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

If it really is hull #73, the HIN would be 30007372.

I have hull #79, and my HIN is 30007972.

It seems HIN formats changed a couple times early in the production run, with 
the last change being to the standard format.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 17, 2020, at 3:44 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joel
> 
> Do you have a number scribed on the top  St'bd of your transom, such as 
> CCY30xxxmm73?  The xxx will be the hull number and the mm is the month built.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol RI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/15/2020 9:13 AM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> Human age I was just wondering 
>> I have a mk1 1973 30 foot
>> I think hull 73
>> 
>> On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 9:11 AM Dreuge via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> Human Age? 
>> 
>> How about the oldest and youngest of the C era vessel?  That would be an 
>> interesting honor.
>> 
>> 
>> Regarding age spans, the limits are less meaning full.  For example, the 
>> local amateur
>> radio club has about the same 35 - 86 limits, but mean of the distribution  
>> is
>> likely 70.  On the other hand, the age spread of our clubs Viper fleet is 
>> about 16 - 68,
>> with an average age in the 20s.
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
>> 
>>> On Jul 15, 2020, at 8:54 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2020 08:16:02 -0400
>>> From: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range
>>> Message-ID:
>>> >> >
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>> 
>>> Randy wrote:
>>> 
 So far we?ve got:
 
 Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
 Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86
 
 I?m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)
 
 Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.
 
>>> 
>>> These ages parallel the informal surveys from various motorcycle groups I
>>> belong to. Maybe youngsters don't like motion?
>>> 
>>> I'm 64 and have been motorcycling most of my life, and sailing for 2/3s of
>>> it.
>>> 
>>> Jim Hesketh
>>> C 26
>>> Miami, Fl
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel Delamirande
>> 
>> www.jdroofing.ca 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Who knew this would turn into such an interesting thread.  When I get a few 
minutes I’ll do the descriptive statistics on the responses and report the 
mean.  Here’s to Cam, youngest member at 32!

I have 30 MK I hull #79, which I named Grenadine, built in 1972.  I was nine 
years old then.  I’m in my fifth season with her, and it’s the best one yet.  
I’ve given her lots of TLC.  She deserves it and more.

When the Viking Mars landers were flying in the mid-70s, my dad was in mission 
control at JPL.  His friend had a Cal 29 and a son my age (12-13), and we’d 
weekend on Catalina.  I was hooked.  A bunch of life went by, and I started 
farting around with Sunfish and Hobies whenever I could.  Then I bought 
captained charters in the Grenadines at charity auctions, and introduced my 
family to the wonders.  Started taking courses, joined a J/22 timeshare 
program, and crewed on other people’s race boats for a few years before finding 
Grenadine.  Now have about ten years’ experience and a few bareboat charters 
under my belt.  I only wish I’d started this trajectory earlier in life.  But 
at least I’ve got my kids hooked :)

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 15, 2020, at 2:32 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 69 today. Owned 4 C’s so far a 24, a 27, a 30, and now a 46 year old 35  
> All great boats. Started my sailing journey on a Paceship Mouette. 
> 
> On Wed, Jul 15, 2020 at 4:47 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> So far we’ve got:
> 
> Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
> Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86
> 
> I’m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)
> 
> Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

So far we’ve got:

Youngest: Luke Wolbrink, age 35
Wisest: Doug Robinson, age 86

I’m in that range, 56.  Neither young nor wise :)

Good to see some young people here - way to go guys.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVID-19?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Personally I think that would be a fantastic idea.  I could volunteer to 
reprise a presentation I gave my local RSA about my decision and process to buy 
a C

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 1:52 PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If the physical rendezvous is canceled, could this be an opportunity for a 
> world-wide (virtual) rendezvous? People could sign up to give scheduled 
> presentations/talks, we could have open video chat rooms for people to join, 
> etc.. It could end up being just as edifying (albeit different) an experience 
> and a way to bring the community together in a way that would never be 
> physically possible.
> 
> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 12:36 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Last year, I volunteered to host of the upcoming 2020 Mid-Atlantic C 
> Rendezvous in Baltimore MD in late-September.  We recently returned from the 
> relative safety of the Bahamas to a raging pandemic in the United States and 
> it is far from being over, even though Maryland has done quite well in 
> controlling the virus.  I am in my seventies and catching COVID-19 could mean 
> much more to me than simply being sick for several weeks—it could be a death 
> blow.
> 
> Consequently, I am withdrawing as a host for the upcoming rendezvous and I 
> will not be attending one being held elsewhere.  I strongly encourage that 
> this year's rendezvous be cancelled but that is up to everyone else on this 
> list who lives in the Mid-Atlantic area.  In my opinion, a weekend get 
> together (even with friendly C owners) is simply not worth the risk of 
> catching COVID-19.
> 
> So, I am throwing out the question to other possible attendees, should this 
> year’s rendezvous be cancelled?  And, if not, who is willing to host it and 
> where?
> 
> Bob
> 
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
> (Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the 
> ICW in between)
> 411 Walnut Street #11447
> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
> (443) 994-1802
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List HilleRange stove parts

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Brian.  The right front burner on my HilleRange doesn’t work.  I’ve 
never tried to diagnose it, but I suspect some kind of blockage in its fuel 
line.  I’d pay for shipping on the fuel line and burner assembly for the right 
front burner.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 7:05 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello C members,
> 
> If anyone has a HilleRange stove/range on their vessel and is in need of 
> spare parts please let me know. Everything is now posted on ebay [link 
> below].  For members on this list you can have them free and only pay 
> shipping. I carefully took everything apart and had to cut a few things in 
> order to get it through the doorway. But everything listed is in good shape.
> 
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=324224174947=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1
>  
> 
> 
> Regards 
> Brian
> West Palm Beach,  FL 33412
> (954) 892.1128
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29 Teak Hand Rails and Mainsheet Bridge Traveler

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

As Dennis said, you can fabricate your own handrails.  I did for my 30 MK I, 
with help from one of my crew who is a very skilled woodworker and has a 
complete wood shop in his garage.

The hardest part was finding a teak plank long enough.  I finally found one at 
a specialty wood store in a city an hour away.  It was about 1” thick, 5.5” 
wide, and 12’ long.

The other hardest part was removing the old handrails.  There was one screw 
whose head I could not access; it was covered by bulkhead trim I didn’t want to 
remove.

Pictures of my project are at 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTc093OExfMGRBX1E?usp=sharing 


My buddy ripped the plank lengthwise and doweled the two strips together so he 
could cut two perfectly symmetric handrails, using an old one we removed intact 
as a template.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 23, 2020, at 10:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Are you talking about moving the traveler from the bridge deck to the cabin 
> top?  If so, Garhauer makes several traveler risers which might work.   
> 
> https://www.garhauermarine.com/travelers/traveler-risers/heavy-duty-universal-traveler-riser-ur-2.html
>  
> 
> 
> Re handrails - most C handrails have non-standard spacing.  You can easily 
> make your own if you have access to a hole saw, jigsaw and router.  
> Otherwise, there are a couple custom teak sites on the internet which can 
> clone them for you.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 11:09 AM Eric Templeton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Looking for recommendations on a Mainsheet Bridge Traveler to open up the 
> cockpit / companionway area.
> 
>  
> 
> Also looking for replacement Hand Rails (Teak, 6 loop, about 75” length with 
> 12 in centers for mounting.
> 
>  
> 
> C 29 Mk1 1979
> 
> 
> Eric
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> 
> Eric Templeton
> 
> (C) +1.630.261.5873
> 
> etchic...@yahoo.com 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Nathan!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 4:51 AM, Nathan Post  wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my 
> cockpit that wasn’t working.  My strategy was to use an angle grinder to 
> taper the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed 
> glass on an angle all around the hole.  Then I took a piece of roughly 0.1” 
> thick g10 that was bigger then the hole and glued it in behind.  First sand 
> the G10 with course grit paper, clean with acetone and then use a fast 
> setting adhesive (I used 3M 8805NS) and tape in place until set.  In your 
> case you need to get it between the liner and the deck laminate so if you 
> don’t have access from elsewhere you may need to do it in more than one 
> piece. Then just use masking tape on the back of the seam when you go to 
> laminate glass in. Once the g10 is bonded and cured you can wet lay glass 
> fabric in to fill the hole.  use slow epoxy and orienting the layers in 
> different directions. Doesn’t matter if the glass goes slightly beyond the 
> hole- you can sand it off later. When that is cured sand off areas that stick 
> out using a large orbital sander with course grit and fill areas that are not 
> thick enough with fairing compound. Sand again to 120 grit. Prime and paint 
> or gel coat to finish.
> 
> You may want to stick with a teak or starboard cover plate on the inside as I 
> think it will be harder to match the liner well and if you put instruments in 
> you may want access to wire the backside anyway.
> 
> - -
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper
> 
>> On Jun 13, 2020, at 11:29 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Listers,
>> 
>> Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
>> nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
>> interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
>> Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other 
>> instruments, and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.
>> 
>> So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular 
>> hole in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” 
>> thick, and the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.
>> 
>> Thank you in advance.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Two Deaths on Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-resident-paul-kresge-identified-as-man-who-drowned-in-dillon-reservoir/
 
<https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-resident-paul-kresge-identified-as-man-who-drowned-in-dillon-reservoir/>
 identifies the man and confirms he broached while gybing.  There’s a picture 
of him and his boat “shortly before the accident” and he wasn’t wearing a PFD 
or dry suit.

Randy

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 2:32 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This story 
> https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/man-overboard-dillon-reservoir/73-117f6aa2-1808-4c5a-9938-d6cc640f4166
>  
> <https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/man-overboard-dillon-reservoir/73-117f6aa2-1808-4c5a-9938-d6cc640f4166>
>  says he “was traveling downwind … and performed a maneuver to change course 
> … During the maneuver, the boat lost control and tipped over, causing the 
> captain to fall overboard. … The boat then collided with a race committee 
> boat.”
> 
> So maybe he had to gybe to avoid the RC boat, and broached in the process.  
> The Star has a big main; may be challenging to gybe safely in strong wind.
> 
> The surface water temperature at Dillon Reservoir is probably 45-50F right 
> now, decreasing with depth.  That would induce cold shock immediately.  
> Here’s an article on the stages of cold water immersion: 
> https://www.soundingsonline.com/voices/hypothermia 
> <https://www.soundingsonline.com/voices/hypothermia>. Four years ago when I 
> pulled three people out of Chatfield Reservoir whose fishing boat had sunk on 
> a rough night, one of them was already in the second stage (cold 
> incapacitation) after only five or ten minutes in the water.  The date was 
> June 10th, 2016 and the water temp was sub-60F.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
>> On Jun 15, 2020, at 2:08 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> When we race offshore, half the crew is required to have taken the Safety at 
>> Sea course within the past five years.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 
>> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> As a racer on the San Francisco Bay the 1-10-1 rule is definitely 
>> applicable.  As a result, when racing I always insist all my crew (me 
>> included) wear PFD's  The water in the bay is cold and the initial thermal 
>> shock can kill you!  I've learned to take safety seriously, especially after 
>> taking the Safety at Sea courses which I highly recommend.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Make That Four Deaths at Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

https://www.kktv.com/content/news/Search-and-rescue-operation-underway-at-Lake-Pueblo-for-2-missing-people-571222421.html
 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Two Deaths on Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

This story 
https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/man-overboard-dillon-reservoir/73-117f6aa2-1808-4c5a-9938-d6cc640f4166
 

 says he “was traveling downwind … and performed a maneuver to change course … 
During the maneuver, the boat lost control and tipped over, causing the captain 
to fall overboard. … The boat then collided with a race committee boat.”

So maybe he had to gybe to avoid the RC boat, and broached in the process.  The 
Star has a big main; may be challenging to gybe safely in strong wind.

The surface water temperature at Dillon Reservoir is probably 45-50F right now, 
decreasing with depth.  That would induce cold shock immediately.  Here’s an 
article on the stages of cold water immersion: 
https://www.soundingsonline.com/voices/hypothermia 
. Four years ago when I 
pulled three people out of Chatfield Reservoir whose fishing boat had sunk on a 
rough night, one of them was already in the second stage (cold incapacitation) 
after only five or ten minutes in the water.  The date was June 10th, 2016 and 
the water temp was sub-60F.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 2:08 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When we race offshore, half the crew is required to have taken the Safety at 
> Sea course within the past five years.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> As a racer on the San Francisco Bay the 1-10-1 rule is definitely applicable. 
>  As a result, when racing I always insist all my crew (me included) wear 
> PFD's  The water in the bay is cold and the initial thermal shock can kill 
> you!  I've learned to take safety seriously, especially after taking the 
> Safety at Sea courses which I highly recommend.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Two Deaths on Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck.

Yes it is very surprising that he wasn’t wearing a PFD.  One correction to my 
account, he sailed a Star, which is a 23’ keelboat (not a dinghy).  Still, as 
you know, at Dillon, any boat can be knocked down.  According to the updated 
Summit Daily story, he was returning to the marina post-race when a storm cell 
blew in with 40-knot winds creating four-foot waves, and he broached.  I wonder 
if he relaxed and removed his PFD after the race was over.  If I learn more 
details I’ll pass them along.

Events like this make me evaluate my own complacency about safety.  I’ve 
developed so much confidence in my 30 MK I’s stability that I’m probably taking 
risks I shouldn’t.  Case in point: last Sunday when I hit 7.8 knots in 45 knots 
true wind, I wasn’t wearing a PFD (though some of my crew were).  Worse yet, 
shortly after setting that speed record we took a 60-knot gust according to my 
anemometer, and I still wasn’t wearing a PFD.  Even if the boat stays upright, 
the water is cold and choppy and full of speeding powerboats, and a MOB could 
be injured or unconscious.

All very sobering.  Time to rethink safety.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 10:30 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> I’m saddened by the loss of a valued member of the sailing community in 
> Colorado.  Having sailed Dillon Reservoir in earlier years and after reading 
> the article I can’t imagine how such an experienced sailor would have been 
> allowed or chosen  to compete in a dinghy race without a life jacket.  The 
> water in Dillon is always just a few degrees above freezing as it is fed 
> entirely by snow melt.  At 9000’ above sea level tucked in adjacent to the 
> Continental Divide, it has some of the most capricious wind and weather 
> anywhere in US.  Although the article didn’t mention anything regarding a 
> wetsuit or dry suit, hypothermia in sub 50 degree water with no PFD would 
> seem to have been a likely contributing factor.  As tragic as the loss of 
> life of a person who by all accounts was a real contributor to our sport, it 
> serves as a great reminder to prepare for a worse case situation because it 
> can and Will happen.
> Godspeed Paul,
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 15, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I’m sad to report we lost a very experienced and decorated sailor this 
>> weekend at Dillon Reservoir.  Paul Kresge of Dillon Yacht Club had raced for 
>> 40 years, and was well-known around the country as a US Sailing Judge and 
>> PRO.  He went overboard racing his dinghy in rough weather Saturday 
>> afternoon, and his body was recovered from 200 feet of water yesterday 
>> evening.  His death represents quite a loss for the Colorado sailing 
>> community.
>> 
>> * 
>> https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-reservoir-search-shifts-from-search-and-rescue-mission-to-body-recovery/
>>  
>> <https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-reservoir-search-shifts-from-search-and-rescue-mission-to-body-recovery/>
>> * 
>> https://www.coloradosummitmag.com/news-and-profiles/2019/06/racing-the-wind 
>> <https://www.coloradosummitmag.com/news-and-profiles/2019/06/racing-the-wind>
>> 
>> Also on Saturday afternoon, two 28-year-old men became separated from their 
>> inner tubes in strong wind.  One of them went under water and was recovered 
>> some 90 minutes later.  I was working on my boat in the marina, and saw the 
>> South Metro Dive Team’s runabout hauling ass to the launch ramp, with first 
>> responders doing CPR on someone aboard.  But it was too late, he didn’t make 
>> it.
>> 
>> * 
>> https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/chatfield-water-rescue/73-fb01b537-5c31-4057-b284-da15d188d72a
>>  
>> <https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/chatfield-water-rescue/73-fb01b537-5c31-4057-b284-da15d188d72a>
>> * 
>> https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/crews-search-for-person-missing-in-chatfield-reservoir-1-brought-to-shore-in-serious-condition
>>  
>> <https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/crews-search-for-person-missing-in-chatfield-reservoir-1-brought-to-shore-in-serious-condition>
>> 
>> These events demonstrate that the risks are real, even for very experienced 
>> watermen.
>> 
>> Respectfully,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   h

Stus-List Two Deaths on Colorado Lakes This Weekend

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I’m sad to report we lost a very experienced and decorated sailor this weekend 
at Dillon Reservoir.  Paul Kresge of Dillon Yacht Club had raced for 40 years, 
and was well-known around the country as a US Sailing Judge and PRO.  He went 
overboard racing his dinghy in rough weather Saturday afternoon, and his body 
was recovered from 200 feet of water yesterday evening.  His death represents 
quite a loss for the Colorado sailing community.

* 
https://www.summitdaily.com/news/dillon-reservoir-search-shifts-from-search-and-rescue-mission-to-body-recovery/
 

* https://www.coloradosummitmag.com/news-and-profiles/2019/06/racing-the-wind 


Also on Saturday afternoon, two 28-year-old men became separated from their 
inner tubes in strong wind.  One of them went under water and was recovered 
some 90 minutes later.  I was working on my boat in the marina, and saw the 
South Metro Dive Team’s runabout hauling ass to the launch ramp, with first 
responders doing CPR on someone aboard.  But it was too late, he didn’t make it.

* 
https://www.9news.com/article/news/local/chatfield-water-rescue/73-fb01b537-5c31-4057-b284-da15d188d72a
 

* 
https://www.thedenverchannel.com/news/local-news/crews-search-for-person-missing-in-chatfield-reservoir-1-brought-to-shore-in-serious-condition
 


These events demonstrate that the risks are real, even for very experienced 
watermen.

Respectfully,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fun Work

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Wow that looks sharp!

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 9:01 AM, Paul Hood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sometimes it's good to do the fun work.  This weekend I put a 2 layer EVA
> foam in the cockpit area and got rid of the old black mesh flooring.  Hope
> it works as good as it looks.  Sure does feel much better on the feet.  I
> like the boat so much, I had to put the C logo in the floor as well. 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BGMAqOP-HV1_3BVSRv86Uq5cd9YfKNlX/view?usp=s
> haring
> 
> Paul Hood
> C '81 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hello Listers,

Today I removed a broken compass from Grenadine’s cabin wall, and a teak 
nacelle it was in.   There’s a 4.5” circular hole in the cabin wall and 
interior liner.  Right now I’m covering it temporarily with a teak panel.  
Longer term I might like to glass in the holes for that and other instruments, 
and go to more flat-panel electronic instruments.

So, can anybody advise me on the procedure for re-glassing a 4.5” circular hole 
in a cabin wall, and liner?  The cabin wall looks to be maybe 3/8” thick, and 
the liner maybe 3/16” think, both uncored.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

WOW!  Of course it would take a Gloucesterman to do that :)

Do you have 30 MK I hull #9?  What is your complete HIN?

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 8, 2020, at 11:31 AM, Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy, the 30 is definitely a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Once you add in the 
> right size of ocean swells, you can move the bow wave back to the shrouds and 
> surf at well above 12 knots - have done so more than once on a broad reach 
> and even wing-on-wing in a storm out on the Atlantic.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek
> Ginkgo 30-9, Gloucester, MA


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Personal 30 MK I Speed Record

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Sharing the thrill here.  Yesterday I hit 7.8 knots per GPS on my 30 MK I, S/V 
Grenadine (hull #79).  It happened on port tack beam reach in 45 knots true 
wind, under single-reefed main and working jib, with bright blue skies and 
85-degree temps.  My previous record was 7.6 knots, five years ago, on 
starboard tack close reach in a 27mph gust under full main and #2 genoa.  
That’s over a knot faster than her theoretical hull speed of 6.67 knots.

Has anyone broken 8 knots on a 30 MK I?

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35-3 Mast Wedges

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I use the Rig-Rite NGA-19 (large rubber) wedges on my 30 MK I and the damned 
things still fall out.  I’m warming up to the idea of a spar-tite plug  - but 
now thanks to Joe I’ve got muffin-top images in my head :)

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 11:11 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rig-Rite has rubber wedges.
> https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_wedges.php
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
>> On June 3, 2020 at 12:38 PM rick bushie via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I use rubber wedges on my 30-1. I don’t remember where I sourced them but 
>> google is your friend. My mast boot is constructed from a tire inner tube 
>> and contact cement. Works great.
>> 
>> Rick Bushie
>> Anchovy
>> 1971 30-1
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List On the rocks- towing stranded boats

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

What’s that saying?  One good turn deserves another?  Five years ago I rescued 
three people whose fishing boat sank out from under them on a rough night.  

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jun 1, 2020, at 8:47 PM, Richard Bush  wrote:
> 
> Randy, you noted about having to be pulled out by power boats; we sail on the 
> Ohio River, and I have had multiple opportunities to tow power boats, usually 
> runabouts, who have broken down, and I always tell them, "be sure to tell 
> your friends that you were towed in by a sailboat"!   Great fun!
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmakr4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Randy Stafford 
> Sent: Mon, Jun 1, 2020 4:25 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List On the rocks
> 
> Will I’m sorry to hear that.  Last year I ran my 30 MK I aground three times, 
> by not paying close enough attention to the lake level.  One time I suspended 
> myself from the boom end, and had my guests ease me all the way out, to no 
> avail.  Where I sail it’s a mud bottom so the only damage is to my ego, 
> suffering the ignominy of begging powerboats to pull me out of the mud.  This 
> spring I highlighted every dangerous contour line on my underwater topo map, 
> and confirmed visual shoreline references marking the danger areas when the 
> lake’s not full.  And I’m now sure to check the lake level every time I go 
> out.  I hope you make a full and quick recovery.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List On the rocks

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Will I’m sorry to hear that.  Last year I ran my 30 MK I aground three times, 
by not paying close enough attention to the lake level.  One time I suspended 
myself from the boom end, and had my guests ease me all the way out, to no 
avail.  Where I sail it’s a mud bottom so the only damage is to my ego, 
suffering the ignominy of begging powerboats to pull me out of the mud.  This 
spring I highlighted every dangerous contour line on my underwater topo map, 
and confirmed visual shoreline references marking the danger areas when the 
lake’s not full.  And I’m now sure to check the lake level every time I go out. 
 I hope you make a full and quick recovery.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Jun 1, 2020, at 1:17 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Will- I empathize with the situation.  Two summers ago, moment’s 
> inattention I put our boat on a ledge and with wing keel had absolutely no 
> chance of geting off.  The sickening sound and feeling every time the boat 
> when up on a wave and came down onto the ledge is seared into my memory.  We 
> were fortunate to get pulled off by Sea-tow just before it became impossble 
> on a ebbing tide.  A month later we were repaired and back on the water.  So 
> hang in there.  I was heartened by all the stories I heard from far more 
> experienced sailors of their grounding experiences, and every single one had 
> them.  The one that I liked best is if you are sailing, you have either gone 
> aground, going to go aground, or have gone aground and are lying about it.  
> Dave
> 
>> On Jun 1, 2020, at 2:55 PM, Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Our first sail of the season - beautiful beam reach most of the day from 
>> Portland to Boothbay Harbor, our C 41 topping 9 knots! Unfortunately we 
>> took our eye off the current when we pulled up our first anchoring attempt 
>> (too close to lobster pots) and drifted into ledge. In the pounding I 
>> couldn't think straight to weight the boom and heel so our deep keel could 
>> tip over into being a not-too-deep keelHelp came but not soon enough. 
>> We have a brand new (1-day of use) North Sails 125% genny if you have a boat 
>> like ours with furling. 
>> Don't forget all your tricks when you head out! 
>> 
>> 
>> Will Gerstmyer LEED
>> Will Gerstmyer Architect
>> 15 Ives St #36 Beverly MA 01915
>> 978.609.1331
>> www.gerstmyer.info 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Local knowledge - Oregon Inlet

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

Coincidentally I was just looking yesterday at NOAA Chart 12204 
(https://charts.noaa.gov/PDFs/12204.pdf 
, 39th edition dated June 2018, last 
corrected 10/8/2019).

Its note B about the Oregon Inlet refers to the USCG Fifth District’s Local 
Notices to Mariners at https://navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=lnmDistrict=5 
.  The latest of those, 
https://navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/lnms/lnm05212020.pdf 
, and Chart 12204’s Note B, 
refer to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Wilmington, North Carolina District 
hydrographic survey information at 
http://www.saw.usace.army.mil/Missions/Navigation/HydrographicSurveys.aspx 
.

The latest Army Corps survey maps of the Oregon Inlet are at 
https://www.saw.usace.army.mil/Missions/Navigation/Hydrographic-Surveys/Manteo-Oregon-Inlet/
 
.
The bar was last surveyed May 11th and shows a depth of 8 feet over the bar: 
https://saw-nav.usace.army.mil/MANTEO-OREGON/OREGON_INLET_EAST/Oregon_Inlet_Bar.pdf
 
.
The map of the Oregon Inlet Bridge, updated May 21, shows 14-16 feet of water 
in the channel under the bridge: 
https://saw-nav.usace.army.mil/MANTEO-OREGON/OREGON_INLET_EAST/Oregon_Inlet_Bridge.pdf
 
.
West of the Oregon Inlet Bridge, the map shows at least 12 feet of water to get 
to the Old House Channel, and was last updated March 17th: 
https://saw-nav.usace.army.mil/MANTEO-OREGON/OREGON_INLET_WEST/Oregon_Inlet_West.pdf
 
.

With your 7’ draft, it might be dicey getting across that bar.  Might want to 
look at the latest maps as your trip date approaches, and call the USCG Fifth 
District or Army Corps Wilmington District.

Cheers,
Randy

> On May 29, 2020, at 9:49 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Bermuda is off the table due to Covid, so we are going to Charleston.  
> 
> Plan is to stay outside, but it looks like Oregon Inlet is dredged to 14 
> feet.  Can anyone confirm it?  I'd like to be able to bail out before 
> Hatteras if the weather is bad.
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stupid Sailing Trick Contest

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I started off the 2020 season by launching my boat, motoring to my slip, and 
bashing the stem against a dock cable winch, putting a couple quarter-size 
gouges in my nice new paint job.  Since then, knock on wood, I haven’t 
performed any stupid sailing tricks.  Except disappearring one of my lazarette 
padlocks, necessitating a shuffling of locks on my dock box.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO 

> On May 28, 2020, at 8:35 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone got me beat for 2020?
> 
> I backed out of my slip right onto the dinghy painter, which somehow didn't 
> float well enough and wrapped right around the prop shaft :(
> 
> After a refreshing swim to unwind that, I went up the river to fix a mooring 
> and fixed the WRONG ONE. I got a phone call thanking me from my buddy who was 
> wondering who got his stuck shackle loose, he was dreading the job. I also 
> discovered either barnacles grow WAY faster than anyone ever realized or the 
> diver missed a spot last week.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tacking Down an Asym on a 30 MK I

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Don,

Thanks for the reply.

My RSA hasn't published rating rules on retrofit sprits and asyms etc. - it’s 
new territory for them.

It would seem that people do use top-down furlers for asyms: see for example 
https://www.quantumsails.com/en/resources-and-expertise/articles/the-top-5-reasons-top-down-spinnaker-furlers-are-a
 
<https://www.quantumsails.com/en/resources-and-expertise/articles/the-top-5-reasons-top-down-spinnaker-furlers-are-a>.

I can shackle an asym tack line block to the spare headsail shack on the stem, 
and hoist/douse the asym using a sock.  It just might not be as fast as using a 
furler like my competitor does.

When the Ranger 28 with the asym beat me off-wind Wednesday night, I was under 
jib and main, not my symmetrical chute.  It was a broad reach (AWA ~140) to the 
next mark, then a beam reach to the last mark.

The responses from you and Mike Hoyt make me think I should try going 
head-to-head with him while flying my symmetrical spinnaker - which of course 
is a reasonable suggestion, and one that would save me money :)  I’ll still be 
at a disadvantage in sail setting speed because he has furlers and I don’t.  
But I should try that first.

Cheers,
Randy

> On May 15, 2020, at 11:05 AM, Donald Kern via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> Most PHRF rating organizations will adjust (negatively) your rating for 
> adding a tack point forward of the "J" measurement of the boat. You may 
> receive a credit for both a retrofit application and due to a smaller sail 
> area for a spinnaker - depends on the rating rules for your PHRF 
> organization.  Also an asymmetrical spinnaker is a free fly sail, thus adding 
> a hard furler is not done for an asym.  I do not understand why you stated 
> "So I can’t just shackle an asym tack line block to the spare headsail 
> shackle on the stem, and hoist/douse the asym using a sock." That should be 
> an option. Lastly, the 30 Mk1 was designed to go deep downwind with a 
> symmetrical spinnaker, which would have a greater sail area projected to 
> windward an inherently faster than a asym rig deep downwind.  The plus side 
> that an asym would give your 30 Mk1 would be on reaching legs.  Hope this 
> helps.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> Commo. PHRF-NB
> 
> 
> On 5/15/2020 12:22 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
>> Listers-
>> 
>> A guy in my yacht club has started an arms race by adding an asym with a 
>> top-down furler to his Ranger 28.  Wednesday night in light air I beat him 
>> to the windward mark by a minute or two, then he hoisted his asym and 
>> dropped me like a bad habit.  He beat me by five minutes corrected time in a 
>> one-hour race despite spotting me 12 sec/mile with his new adjusted rating 
>> (demonstrating yet again that ratings don’t necessarily account for 
>> performance differences).  It was an eye-opening demonstration.
>> 
>> So now I’m thinking I need an asym to compete.  I know a guy who flew one on 
>> a 30 MK I.  He welded a bracket forward of the stem, to fasten a tack line 
>> block, and had a sock instead of a furler.  If I want to compete with this 
>> Ranger 28, I’ll have to add two furlers (one on the forestay and one for the 
>> asym) to be able to set sails as fast as him.  So I can’t just shackle an 
>> asym tack line block to the spare headsail shackle on the stem, and 
>> hoist/douse the asym using a sock.  I need a tack point forward of the stem 
>> to accommodate a furler.
>> 
>> Thus my question to you listers: any experience with adding a bowsprit or 
>> bracket etc. to your C for tacking down an asymmetrical spinnaker?  I did 
>> some reading last night on after-market bowsprits (e.g. Selden), but of 
>> course wanted to check with the collective wisdom on Stu’s list.  Any advice 
>> or recommendations?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30 MK I #79
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray