Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question
Is the prop clean? I may also be the fuel filters. It sounds like low fuel flow. Put in new filters, and bleed the system. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Dave via CnC-List Date: 9/7/21 18:17 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: syerd...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List universal M20 diesel question Evening all. Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel issue. His engine will rev freely at idle but with the transmission engaged in either forward or reverse, revs increase very slowly and only to 1800-2000 RPM on the tach. (whether tach is accurate or not, RPM under load is much lower than no-load, and RPM increases quite slowly.)We have verified that neither the exhaust system nor the fuel supply to the high pressure pump is obstructed. Air Intake is clear. The speed lever works smoothly to its full travel. The compression release is not engaged. The engine runs a new facet electric fuel pump with plenty of flow.When the engine is running, no fuel returns to the tank via the return line. The return line is not blocked, at least not downstream from the return barb at the injector. I am not sure under what circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a diesel, as the return occurs after the high pressure pump. All This leads me to suspect a fuel (volume) problem but i am not exactly sure where to look next. I believe all that’s left are injectors and high pressure pump. The high pressure pump has a governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel flow. Any thoughts? Many thanks! Dave 33-2 Sent from Mail for Windows Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: IDA - C&Cers check in
Glad to hear all are ok. Out here on the west coast I would like a little bit of your wind. Sailind down to San Diego in 2-10kts of wind makes for a long motor. Heading out the Straits of Juan de Fuca we beat head on into 19kts of wind. Turned the corner at Cape Flattery today, we were able to sail for a couple of hours before the wind died. Currently anchored in a little recess heading to Grays Harbor tomorrow 75 nm south. Predict wind is calling for 10 - 15 kt winds on a broad reach in the morning then dieing to nothing by mid afternoon. If anyone is interested i can be tracked on Find Ship app Rebecca Leah. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: filling holes in coachtop
Counter sink top and bottom, tape over bottom of hole. Then fill with thickened epoxy. I go for about the consistency of ketchup. Without the counter sink. It will crack over time. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Wade Glew via CnC-List Date: 8/27/21 09:00 (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List Cc: Wade Glew Subject: Stus-List filling holes in coachtop Hi all,On my 33-MK 2, I want to move the coach top winches about 12-18 inches from their current location. The site I'm moving them to is a designated location by design and the coach top is round and flat in the new location to allow a winch placement. My question is, can I just fill the old holes with unthickened epoxy or what would be recommended?thanks for your thoughtsWadeOh Boy, 33 MK 2 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?
I went with the excel also based on Panopes observations. I have the 45lb excel backed up by 300ft 5/16 G4 chain. A friend and I were rated on his 35lb Spade anchor and 100 ft of chain no issues. His boat is a Pretorian 35, 15k lbs , mine is a landfall 39 24k lbs. The 2 of us have been on my anchor with a 4 to 1 scope in 20+ kts and no sign of dragging. I always go up one size on the anchor, and have at least a boat length worth of chain. When I replaced my windlass a couple of years ago I decided to go to an all chain rode. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Jim Watts via CnC-List Date: 8/23/21 11:24 (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List Cc: Jim Watts Subject: Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users? I have a 35 lb genuine Bruce as a backup to my 35 lb Delta. Works for me so far, but I am thinking of going to a 37 lb Excel to replace the Delta based on Panope's testing. I paid $1/lb for the Bruce, but I'm special. It replaced a 22 lb Lewmar Claw, and the differences in shape, fluke sharpness, and workmanship are obvious. Jim WattsParadigm ShiftC&C 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BCOn Mon, 23 Aug 2021 at 07:44, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150. I think it will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans? Joe Coquina Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?
A true Bruce is better than a Danforth. I have an Excell based on these videos.They are long videos but I think very informative. https://youtu.be/smgWTtFuk3Uhttps://youtu.be/ua21k2abK1QFWIW Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" Date: 8/23/21 07:44 (GMT-08:00) To: Stus-List Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" Subject: Stus-List any Bruce anchor users? Someone on my street is selling a 33 pound real Bruce for $150. I think it will be an improvement over my Danforth. Any Bruce fans? Joe Coquina Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Steering cable
FWI. Back in the day of rigging airplanes. I would use heat shrink (non adhesive type) to connect the old and new cables. Pull out old cable gently and new will be routed correctly. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 1984 Landfall 43
Hi Kevin,I also have the LF 39. The chain plates are 3/8th stainless bar stock through bolted to frame members glassed to the hull, they are about 3 feet long. I pulled my mast 3 years ago, replaced the rod rigging, and basically rebuilt the mast. Goose neck was trashed. Major reason for yarding out the mast. At that time I lulled all the chain plates and inspected. I found minor pitting where water had gotten to the bolts. A quick clean up with red scotch Brite, new bolts and back together. I would imagine the 43 is similar in construction. FWIWDoug. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: C&C 34 re-power HP
I would go with the largest 30 to 35 hp. You may not always need the extra power, but it is a lifesaver when you do. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List Date: 2/16/21 14:08 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeremy Ralph Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 re-power HP Hello,I have a 1978 C&C 34 with original Yanmar 2QM20. Looking at Betas and wondering what horsepower to go with if I were to repower. I've heard of people with 20, 25, 30HP in these boats. We're in the Salish Sea off of Vancouver Island and often need to battle wind, waves and current.Thanks Jeremy Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge
Hi JoeI would love one. DougSent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Ourtime via CnC-List Date: 2/15/21 13:22 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ourtime Subject: Stus-List Re: Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge If it's still available, I'd like to give it a good home. -Original Message- From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List To: 'Stus-List' Cc: j...@dellabarba.com Sent: Mon, Feb 15, 2021 12:28 pm Subject: Stus-List Anyone need a Racor vacuum gauge This is for a fuel filter to see if it is clogged. It has the nice color-coded scale. $20 to Stu and it’s yours 😊 Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I Kent Island MD USA Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Re: Stus-List 35-5 outhaul control line
Is the current outhaul line still there? Can you attach a new line to old and pull it thru?I use whipping twine to sew old and new lines end to end then gently pull in new line. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List Date: 5/6/19 10:38 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Luke Wolbrink Subject: Stus-List 35-5 outhaul control line Hello,I'm currently re-rigging my 35-3 and have run into some trouble with the outhaul. There is clearly a purchase system inside the boom making replacing the control line that comes out at the gooseneck impossible. Is there anyone on here who has made this replacement and if so is it possible without taking apart the boom? If I do need to take it apart, is it better done from the gooseneck or the clew end?Thanks in advance,Luke1985 35-3 'Zella' ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List therapy and patriotism
Andy, I have the same philosophy. I too spend all my money on Rebecca Leah. Sometimes I'll sneak a few dollars to spend on my hot rod truck or motorcycle. BUT I don't let her know. Last summer she got new rigging, and she just got new electronics. I think I might need some intervention. LOL. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List Date: 4/28/19 12:28 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Andrew Burton Subject: Re: Stus-List therapy and patriotism I have a strict budget for maintaining my boats; I just spend every penny I have. It's simple.AndyAndrew Burton139 Tuckerman AveMiddletown, RI USA 02842www.burtonsailing.comhttp://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401 965-5260On Apr 28, 2019, at 14:07, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote: FWIW, I put all of my receipts into a folder for warranty sake and in case I need to reorder something that worked well. But I'm afraid to ever add up the expenses. I consider this sailing hobby and maintaining a work of art like a C&C sailboat to be therapy in many ways. It provides many hours of physical work as well as keeping me healthy mentally, problem solving and learning new skills. I should be able to write off the expenses as medicine. A boat also provides a great opportunity to help the economy when buying all the necessary materials and just the taxes paid out over the fifteen year ownership would amount to a considerable sum. Makes me feel patriotic. Now back to glorious sanding a priming.Chuck S ___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Weird rod
Both of the landfall models (38 & 39) have not had this bar. The 38 was hull #4 so maybe this rod thing is post 1979, or it wasn't installed on the landfall models. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C & C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: 4/26/19 11:23 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia Subject: Stus-List Weird rod I have a metal rod in front of the rudder, which I believe is to help avoid seaweed and other floating debris from fouling the rudder post. Nothing at all in front of the keel though. Tom B .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤. Tom & Lynn Buscaglia SV Alera C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com At 09:00 AM 4/26/2019, you wrote: Message: 4 Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 15:58:42 + (UTC) From: johnr...@aol.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel Message-ID: <1965119471.1023889.1556294322...@mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" All the C&C's in our yard have a metal rod that protrudes from the underside just ahead of the keel.? No one seems to know its purpose. John McLaughlinC&C 29-2Falcon ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C as offshore boat?
My Landfall 39 has crossed the Pacific a couple of time with previous owners. Although not a light air boat (compared to the LF38), It feels solid under full sail in 25kt winds. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39 1988253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List Date: 4/24/19 13:16 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeff Helsdingen Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C as offshore boat? According to stories from the previous owner my 35-1 sailed across the Atlantic and back with either the first or second owner. On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 3:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List, wrote:Thanks, Dave. I think there is probably a big difference between going down the Pacific coast to Mexico, and going offshore to Hawaii or the South Pacific, mainly in that the former is limited to 3-5 days offshore between safe ports, vs 20+ days for the latter, meaning weather windows are easier to hit. At this early stage, I really don't know if we'll go offshore, but if things go well, I'd like to go down the coast to Mexico at least, without having to search for another boat. If I already had enough experience, I'd probably just fly to California and find a boat there, then sail it to Mexico, and have the advantage of 10x as many boats to choose from. But I want to sail our local waters first, something I've wanted to do since I was a kid. I grew up around powerboats and fishing boats, and always looking longingly at the sailboats as I endured the drone and smell of the engine...Your accounting of your purchase is quite interesting; thanks. Does that include moorage/storage, insurance, etc.? If so, that is very good value. What do you think she would sell for today? If we had done this a few years ago when I was still working, I would just spend the money on a nicer boat, or not worry about fixing it up. But being only a few months into retirement, and with my wife still working but soon to retire also, the uncertainty of our real living expenses going forward are a significant factor. Moorage is at least $4K/year here, unless we can join a club, or put it on a mooring buoy, but winter storms are an issue with a buoy. Lots of spare parts on the beaches this winter from all the boats washed ashore...On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:45 AM Dave Godwin wrote:Shawn,Been watching your rumination on buying that 35-II.I’ve delivered a C&C 34 from Fort Lauderdale to Port Royal, Jamaica, no stops. It was fine for that but all we had to deal with was constant headwinds for days on end.I’m flying into Ponta Delgada, Azores on May 4 to assist my friend on the final leg home to Gosport, England from Antigua. They just spent 48 hours in Force 7 conditions mid-Atlantic. I would not have wanted to be in my boat in those conditions. His boat is an Oyster 485. Big difference.I consider my boat to be a good coastal cruiser. I’d go to Bermuda with (hopefully) a good weather window. IMO, C&C’s are quite strong but have their limits if extended offshore passage making is the desire.Of course, the French regularly pile entire families on Beneteaus and cross oceans just fine. ;-)Regards, Dave Godwin1982 C&C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit P.S.Back to your purchase decision thread. We bought our boat in 1997 as a bank repo. The description of the 35-II sounds much better compared to the condition of our boat when we purchased it. One thing to consider is the average cost to own over time. Despite replacing/rebuilding or adding 1) engine rebuild, 2) all wiring, 3) plumbing, 4) cushions, 5) roller furling, 6) sails, 7) electronics, 8) below deck autopilot, 9) stove, 10) distribution panel, 11) windlass, 12) fixed ports (2x), 13) opening ports (2x), 14) cabin sole (2x), 15) Harken self-tailing deck winches (2x), 16) Harken mainsheet traveler system (2x), 17) all new rod and running rigging, well, I’ll stop there. No, wait. Completel Awlcraft paint job, hull and topsides. Whew!But here’s the deal; I keep detailed records as part of my rebuild “hobby” and the yearly average costs over time is $7,000.00 U.S. Includes everything with the exception of the $25,000 that we paid for it.I will be interested in your decision. Good luck! On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current boat purchase: how many of you have taken your C&C offshore, and if so, which boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not gone offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C&C, and how would the performance of the boat in these conditions make you feel about taking it offshore?One of the very first boats we looked at was a Westsail 32 (don't laugh), partly because they are proven world cruisers, and the boat has been from BC to NZ and back. But with our fickle air in the summer here, a good light air boat seems like a bet
Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank
I also had a flexible holding tank that failed. Go with a hard plastic one. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List Date: 4/23/19 08:37 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright Subject: Re: Stus-List Rigid vs. flexible sewage holding tank My parents have/had a flexible tank in their powerboat, which failed, making for an unpleasant job to replace. Not sure if it was more unpleasant that a rigid tank would have been, but I suspect so. Based on that, I'd opt for a rigid (plastic) tank I think. The 35-2 we are buying has a newer plastic tank under port side of vberth, 16 US gallon capacity. On Tue, Apr 23, 2019 at 8:22 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Listers: New question for the group’s collective wisdom. For reasons unrelated to a holding tank issue, I recently removed the holding tank to gain access to the area underneath. While it is out, I am considering replacing it. Ordinarily I would order a comparable plastic tank and be done with it. However, some people swear by flexible tanks for this purpose. What say you? Matt Wolford C&C 42 Custom ___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray -- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement on 35-2
Shawn, I replaced my 30 yr old rigging last summer only because I plan on doing extended off shore cruising. Had I not been planning this I would not have done so, as the cost was that of a new car. I did have to replace 1 roller furler, goose neck, and did a couple of up grades. If your worried about the rigging have the swages NDT inspected. If no cracks I say keep using it. FWIW. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List Date: 4/22/19 07:59 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Shawn Wright Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement on 35-2 Hello all,The 35-2 we are about to purchase has standing rigging of unknown age, although it appears to be solid. There is a fellow at the club where the boat is currently located who does rigging, and is going to give me a quote. As the boat is already being hauled and put on the hard for 2 weeks, and the club has a mast crane, it seems like a good opportunity to get it done, and also any work on the mast, check the keel bolt under the mast, etc. The boat has dual forestays with furlers, single backstay with hydraulic tensioner, and standard upper, fore & aft lower shrouds. Just interested in what a ballpark cost should be, and how this would compare to me ordering the wire are terminals and doing it myself.Also, the boat has 7 through hulls, all marelon which appear to be in good condition, but some are a bit stiff. I'm assuming this is due to growth inside and lack of exercise (current owner leaves them open it seems). What is the recommended maintenance for these during a haulout?Thanks!-- Shawn wrightshawngwri...@gmail.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Quadrant cable tension
I tighten mine until there is very little slop in the wheel. I don't think there needs to be much tension. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Folding prop vs feathering
I hauled Rebecca Leah this past weekend to install new thru hull transducers. Been up grading my electronics. I noticed that my prop has some serious pitting and loose blades. I currently have a feathering prop. My plan is to do some extensive blue water cruising in the near future. So my question is which is better, a geared folding prop or stick with a new or rebuild my current feathering one? Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 3QM30
When I had my LF38 with a 3QM30. I did try a stop cable, but it was not a cable that locked. Pushing down on the throttle would override the stop cable.The way this engine shuts down is by closing the throttle beyond the idle position. From idle to shutdown is only about 1/2 inch movement on a dedicated stop cable. I did find that the stop cable did in fact supply a little resistance, allowing me to get a feel of where idle was. Just before killing the engine on a throttle down. Another option might be a solenoid that when energized would allow you to go past idle into shutdown mode. I hope this helps some. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List Date: 4/12/19 15:46 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Alessi Subject: Stus-List 3QM30 Hey there, My 36', 1980 has a Yanmar 3QM30. I got the boat 4 years ago and the only way I have to kill the engine is to throttle down. Has anyonre set up a stop cable? Tom Alessi 646-283-1580 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Broken shift cable
Hi Fred, I can't help on length, but for installing new cable. Before pulling old cable out tie a 1/8 inch line to the cable to use for pulling new cable back in place. Once cable is out it is a simple chore to measure. I use this method for pulling wires, cables or what ever. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List Date: 3/5/19 14:32 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Fred Hazzard Subject: Stus-List Broken shift cable Sunday the shift cable on my 44 broke. Are there any 44 owners out who have replaced this cable?My cable is a red Morse cable. My question is; how long is it?I would like any suggestions on how to fish a new cable in. The cable comes down from the binacle runs under 2 fuel tanks and floorboards to the engine. Thanks Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C&C 44Portland Or ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting to quadrant?
Hi Patrick,I installed a belowdecks autopilot on Pegasus. Contact Kyle as he now has Pegasus there in Shilshole. Maybe he'll let you look at the way I installed it. Good luckDoug. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: 3/3/19 19:40 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Patrick Davin Subject: Stus-List Autopilot tiller arm on LF38 *without* bolting to quadrant? I know there was a thread about below-decks autopilots on the Landfall 38 where discussion ended up on "bolt it to the radial drive, reinforcing the attachment point." ( http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2018-May/200838.html )I'm researching this now, with interest in installing a Raymarine EV-200 with type 1 mechanical linear drive, and I think it *might* be possible to do without bolting to the radial drive. Does anyone know if any LF38 has successfully done this? I've already read dreuge's post - http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2016/12/below-deck-autopilot.html - which is excellent. But he went a different route than I want to go, so it would be helpful to see other photos and installation ideas. The reason I want to avoid bolting to the radial drive is that Edson has repeatedly advised against it, calling it a "likely catastrophic failure" and saying the cast aluminum fixture is not designed for those kind of torsional forces, it's designed for pulling forces (via the cables). A Type 1 ram has 650 lbs peak thrust and a type 2 has 1050 lbs. Additionally I have found one account of someone who had their Edson radial explode (with autopilot mounted to it) - it took 15 years before this happened, but still not a risk that's worth it in my mind. The ideas I'm considering for doing this without mounting to the radial are: A) custom tiller arm, with a 90 degree bend to clear the radial drive rim. It would clamp to the rudder shaft in the 1.9" of available space (1.5" of that is within the bottom concave part of the radial drive). Note I have no diesel tank under the steering, which makes this easier. I don't have a design for this idea though.B) Jefa 270 degree quadrant with integrated tiller arm. https://www.jefa.com/steering/products/cable/quadrants/quadrants.htmI'm talking to Jefa (part of PYI now) this week. The quadrant with welded on tiller arm has less overall height than an Edson radial drive, so it would fit. But I'm not sure about positioning of the linear drive unit - it's 27.5" long and the LF38 stern is quite narrow. Sorry for the long post. The motivation for a below-decks autopilot is that the wheel pilot is not strong enough for significant wave state (it's only rated for 16.5k lbs displacement, and the LF38 is more like 19-20k when loaded for cruising).-Patrick1984 C&C LF38 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fixed port ahead of slider, C&C 37/40+
Inch wide tape would be more than strong enough. IMHO.Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Date: 3/1/19 10:46 (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Stus-List Fixed port ahead of slider, C&C 37/40+ Hello all,I am (finally!) getting ready to replace the fixed port ahead of the slider on my C&C 37/40+. We successfully replaced the slider which had turned to rather ugly, clouded blue plexiglass rather than the original bronze color as a result of exposure to UV. The fixed one is 22" x 31" and is presumably stuck down using Plexus as the side windows were. In this case, the Plexus is 1 1/2" wide. I am thinking that when I get the VHB tape to replace the Plexus, I should go with tape that is 1.25" wide instead of and inch and a half to allow some room for the Dow 795 sealer to go between the deck and the tape to ensure a water tight seal. Coming up with tape (or a combination of tape widths to equal 1 3/8" is proving problematic.Do you agree with my proposed approach, or should I just go with 1 1/2" wide tape? Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL(847) 404-5092 (mobile)bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Electronics For Sale
I am upgrading my electronics and need to get rid of my old stuff. Furuno 1720 radar display and dome no cableGarmin 4208 plotterGarmin 3205 plotterWatchmate ais display, needs an ais reciever.Garmin network hubGarmin GSD 22 Datamarine link 5000 wind, speed,depthDatamarine 5000.Datamarine wind transducer. Depth & speed transducers will be available when I haul boat to replace with new. Waiting for weather to improve. All worked when removed. Make me an offer, I'll send pics off list if interested. Hint; it's all going cheap. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Hull windows
My thought on this is, unless they have found a way for plexiglass ( I use this term loosely) to become one with the fiberglass. It will leak. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: 2/16/19 07:43 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Hull windows I was looking through Sail magazine this morning and noticed several boats with windows in the topside hull. It seems to be a growing trend. My general sense of windows is that at some point in their lifetime, they will begin leaking so windows that will be underwater periodically would concern me. Are these windows mounted differently from those in cabin tops to give confidence in their structure or is this a feature to avoid altogether? Dave S/V Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help
Only thing I can recommend is run a cable down toe out side corners of steps on each side of last. This will help prevent lines from getting tangles in the steps. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: "Steven A. Demore via CnC-List" Date: 2/6/19 18:58 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Steven A. Demore" Subject: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it. The boat came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get through summer. While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger what kind of wedges it should have. He said he wasn’t sure whether C&Cs came with wedges, or a metal spacer. Does anybody know what the factory used to support the mast through the deck?Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on the mast? I’m replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step. The boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main, but I don’t know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not. One last thing. I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum ones) on the sides of the mast. The rigger recommended against it because of the number of holes in the mast. Anybody have thought on whether a series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?Thanks,Steve___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Some Sunday morning reading. Rogue Wave, the whole story.
WOW. always amazed at how much a boat can take. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity
I have problems backing out of my slip into a very narrow fairway. I have a bow in Port tie. Backing out I have to pull forward past my slip, back into my slip using the port prop walk. Then pull out forward. Find it is much easier to just back in to begin with. Luckily I have a bunch of boat houses blocking most of the wind. DougDoug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Propane hose
Hi Tom,This from West Marine. Supply HosesTo carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply hose of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 psi, they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically stronger than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from inside the propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where you can chain a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little short on hose. Use a Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits your propane locker. Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 3/8" female flare swivel and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT adapter.Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: T power via CnC-List Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: T power Subject: Stus-List Propane hose Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 21 feet. My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tom Power Invictus C&C 30 MK1 Fredericton, NB ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Ian, I am having a bag made from an old sail, also. The company is Sea Bags. seabags.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=BR_Search_Brand_BING&utm_term=sea bags&utm_content=MswmwIqC|pcrid|80058229234124|pkw|sea bags|pmt|be|pdv|mDoug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Ian Matthew via CnC-List Date: 12/24/18 19:50 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ian Matthew Subject: Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Richard,Where did you get them made. I have an old jib I would like to do that with. It’s a carbon kami are and it’s too far gone to even give it away Thank youAnd a Merry Christmas from San Francisco to all C&C sailors. Ian MatthewC&C 29.1. “Siento el Viento”On Mon, Dec 24, 2018 at 12:59 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote: Merry Christmas to all the C&C families;; I bought a new Main sail last year, so this year all of my family (12 people in all) are getting a tote bag made from my old Mainsailthey look great, I almost hate to give them away...but it is Christmas...!!! Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; River rising again... Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray -- Ian Matthew"Siento el Viento" C&C 29-1San Francisco BaySent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Merry Christmas to all y'all from the wet Pacific Northwest. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast
Here in Port Orchard, West of Seattle, we had an EF-2 tornado touch down 2 miles from the yacht club. Reports from people at the club said winds were light with heavy rain. I was at the airport working. Just had power flicker. A few houses destroyed but no reported injuries. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Date: 12/21/18 21:07 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Stus-List Heavy storms on the West Coast There were some severe storms reported on the West Coast (around Vancouver/Seattle). Not hurricanes, but sustained winds in the 60+ kt. The worst hit (at least in Canada) was Nanaimo and there was also heavy damage in White Rock, BC. The national news was showing a pier destroyed by the storm - several sailboats broke off their moorings and banged against the pier until it broke (not a pretty picture). Also, a number of boats ended on the beach, one of them looking very much like a C&C (30?). Not an event you want to experience any time, but even more so around Christmas. I hope nobody we know suffered any serious damage. Marek Ottawa, ON ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Sailing Club with racers
Hi Charlie,At my club, we own buildings, and docks. Most members are powerboaters(170 boats). We have a committee (1 guy) that handles the racing. We set aside a portion of the annual budget for the racing. Members get work party time for helping out with the race committee boat. We also work closely with a paper only club. Hope this answers some of your questionsDoug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List Date: 12/18/18 18:47 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List Sailing Club with racers Hello all CnCers; I have some questions for those of you who belong to Sailing or Yacht Clubs, especially those with buildings and grounds, etc. Those whose clubs are 'paper only' can also chime in. Blackbeard Sailing Club (BSC) has ~ 200 members and is exclusively a sailing club founded in ~ 1972. We own real estate, a clubhouse, and other buildings located near New Bern, NC on a creek that joins the Neuse River. Dues are modest (~$550/year) as are in-water slips (~$1000/year). We also have dry storage, dinghy storage and dock boxes available for modest fees. Most of the upkeep is done by member labor with occasional professionals used to replace entire dock sections, etc. which allows the above costs to be kept reasonable. Most members are cruisers with maybe 30 members who actively race either in a OD San Juan 21 fleet, an Ensign fleet or in local PHRF races run by an active club (Neuse River Yacht Association) without facilities (a paper club). Our club (BSC) sponsors an OD regatta and a PHRF regatta or 2 annually and often helps out with local OD fleets and PHRF races with RC personnel, equipment, etc. All these fleets are relatively local and many club members are also members of these fleets/clubs. I am a member of several paper clubs which are exclusively devoted to racing--have even served as the Commodore of several of them. In these racing clubs, all the revenue and expenses are devoted to racing only--this keeps things simple and relatively low cost, especially without property concerns (taxes, upkeep, etc.). Recently, BSC has been approached by an OD club with a proposal for them to associate with us (most of the OD are members of our club) to assist them with personnel, equipment, insurance, etc. for their weekday races (~ 10 boats). This fleet has about 16 race days (Thursdays) per year with several races per day. This is new 'ground' for our club and while we are keen to support local sailboat racing in all its forms, we have to be mindful of the majority of our members who do not race but certainly pay dues, slip fees, etc. Hence our dilemma--how do we support our racing minority in a club whose majority are cruisers or day sailors? What I would like to know from those on the list (in broad terms) is how your club handles racing in your club, especially if the racers represent a relative minority of your otherwise cruising members: Does the club supply RC and mark/safety boats and personnel for your racers? Are the racers covered by the club's liability insurance while on the water racing? Does the club charge a fee or fees for the support it provides? Does the club impose any fees on the racers for the use of the club facilities such as the clubhouse for dinners, etc.? Does your club charge additional fees to your racing members to cover racing expenses? This issue is new to our club and some other local OD fleets and paper clubs may want a similar association. Thus we would like to get any agreement between us and a smaller fleet/club mostly correct the first time. Further, I am sure that this is not the first time this problem has come up in sailing clubs with racers as members, albeit in a minority. Any suggestions on how your club handles these issues or others similar to these would be appreciated, including copies of by-laws, etc. that spell out how such issues are addressed. Thanks in advance, Charlie Nelson Rear Commodore (to be in 2019!) Blackbeard Sailing Club New Bern, NC 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb Water Phantom cenel...@aol.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice
Always better to go with a known quantity. Why replace a good engine for an annoying oil leak. While the engine is out I would freshen up the fuel injector pump and injectors, give the heat exchanger a thorough going over, and any other hard to service items. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Date: 12/11/18 15:47 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice Do forget Bill sometimes new stuff can be a lemon. I think he said the engine was good except for an annoying small leak. On Tue, Dec 11, 2018 at 4:44 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: I think you’re discounting all the work that goes into engine removal and reinstall, it is a lot. Worse on some boats than other, of course. I am sure you realize we are talking about a lot more then pulling a 20 dollar bill out of your pocket. . I think you (Joe) may have done a reinstall, and maybe some people like that work. I do it, but I don’t like it. Also, how long you are going to keep the boat. When you get to 4,000 Hours on an engine, it’s kind of like hitting 65 – you might have another 25 good years in you, or . . . not. You’re never sure. There is a great feeling of confidence of leaving the dock with a new engine. Also, there is always a great secondary market for good, used engines. I sold my used Perkins on Ebay with no problem, after installing a nice, smooth running Kubota. K sara, k sara. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 9:53 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Della Barba, Joe Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice $20 seal vs. $10,000 engine? Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 8:42 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice Wow. If I had gone that far, with an engine with 3K hours, there is no way that I wouldn’t put a new engine in there. I have been down that road a couple times, and the time and effort . . . The new breed of diesels are just so much nicer. Too bad Cummins doesn’t make small diesels. Just my opinion, of course. Bill Coleman C&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Marlin via CnC-List Sent: Monday, December 10, 2018 9:26 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Don Marlin Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the engine compartment. Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to pull. Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses, injectors, valve adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000 hrs. Does not seem to have any issues. The question I have for those who might know is how hard is it to change crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? For clarity I already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on the PTO side. Of course there is a picture :-) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NB4JiY8mQb1Is6OXOlHCbHvwYA4hTriX/view?usp=sharing There is a small leak on PTO side. I don't think it is terrible but still a little leak. Timing cover side seems to be leak free. Thanks in advance. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray -- Sent from Gmail Mobile ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice
From what I see in the picture, all you will need is a good quality torque wrench, and a Way to drive the seal into the seal plate. A good gasket scraper, some acetone or brake kleen to remove all oil residue from gasket surfaces. Locktight for sealing bolts. Some good quality gasket sealer for seal plate. Your local NAPA dealer can guide you in the right direction for sealer. The flywheel might be clocked so it will only fit one way. Good luck. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Don Marlin via CnC-List Date: 12/10/18 18:25 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Don Marlin Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the engine compartment. Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to pull. Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses, injectors, valve adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000 hrs. Does not seem to have any issues.The question I have for those who might know is how hard is it to change crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? For clarity I already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on the PTO side. Of course there is a picture :-) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NB4JiY8mQb1Is6OXOlHCbHvwYA4hTriX/view?usp=sharing There is a small leak on PTO side. I don't think it is terrible but still a little leak. Timing cover side seems to be leak free.Thanks in advance. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question
Hi Lee,Can't say much for the water, except that I'm storing some under my rudder quadrant. As for drill bits. I use cobalt bits. Little more expensive but last much longer. When drilling metal use slow speed and high pressure. Cutting oil also helps.Missed you last weekend in Port Orchard. Doug. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List Date: 11/27/18 19:24 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List Cc: Lee Youngblood Subject: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question Hi All,I have a sweet C&C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the stern of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm. It’s not for drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull the cap for the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today. OK I live in Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much rain comes through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the cockpit? I only looked because my bilge pump was going off for about 20 sec. every 20 min. Water was trickling down below the engine, and s couple years ago, I tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out the construction insulation crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans under the stove - that was a mess and another story. Anyway, does anyone else find water in the stern behind the helm position? Have you looked recently?On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good quality drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the usual rusting metal boxes. Anyone remember the make or link? Thanks, Lee___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Happy Thanksgiving
I want to wish everyone a safe and Happy Thanksgiving. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Engine oil
I use Delo 400 15-40. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler
I just put on a Garhauer traveler. Called Guedio at Garhauer and he figured out the size I needed, plus matched existing mount bolt holes, and how and where lines would exit. All said and done it was still cheaper than repairing my 25 year old harken traveler. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: steve dewar via CnC-List Date: 11/14/18 06:15 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: steve dewar Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler I am looking at replacing my traveler system to a Garhauer 40-2sp system. I presently have the sheet going from the traveler thru blocks to the mast, and back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s slow and isn’t great for fine adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that would nix my idea?ThanksSteveSent from my iPad___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Charter Caribbean?
We have a boat reserved for mid January in the bvi. We'll see. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: David Blair via CnC-List Date: 11/10/18 14:04 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Blair Subject: Stus-List Charter Caribbean? Any listers with recent knowledge of the charter situation there? Remembering the hurricane damage in the BVI last year I am wondering whether Granada or St Vincent areas might provide more charter options. Doing a little research for next March/April. Any comment/feedback appreciated. Tx___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Winch grease
I soaked my winch parts in Brakekleen. Came clean after 10 minutes soak time. I keep a spray can onboard for any oily cleaning I need to do. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Chris Graham via CnC-List Date: 11/4/18 05:49 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease Oh... that sounds good. The Pawlls are rusted so I need to replace all 8 anyway. May buy the kit and use the cheaper stuff for yearly servicing. Took me almost 4 hours per winch to get the sticky hard varnish that had developed!! What a mess. They look and feel brand new now! Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 8:45 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List wrote:There is a very similar teflon based grease used for pool valves, and if you have a pool store near you it will be easier to find and probably cheaper. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Date: 11/4/18 8:35 AM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease Good to have on the boat. This is what Peggie Hall recommends for lubricating the head pump, as well. A small tube is about $7 (CAD) at Home Hardware (special order). Readily available in any h/w store S of the border. Marek Ottawa, ON From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Chris Graham via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 05:58 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease I’ve never heard of it! Good price! Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 5:53 AM, billbruce--- via CnC-List wrote: I use superlube. A local supplier has it for about $15 Cdn full size cartridge. It's a clear synthetic grease and it is what the Anderson winch company uses at the factory. Bill Bruce Landfall 38 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk
They can if you have the number of your current filter. I don't remember what was installed on my 3qm30. Before I installed the remote filter. Access on the LF38 was horrible. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Wade Glew via CnC-List Date: 11/3/18 10:26 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Wade Glew Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?WadeOh Boy C&C 33 MKII On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk
I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List cleaning off rust
New bolts. If their that rusty replace them. Cheap insurance. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa. Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List Date: 11/3/18 09:20 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow Subject: Stus-List cleaning off rust The nuts and bolts between the transmission and the shaft are quite rusty. How can I get the rust off?___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List painting with automotive paint.
A friend painted his boat with Imeron. Looks great after 7 years. Had to have is sprayed though. Most yards won't let you spray paint do to the overspray getting on neighbor boats. Doug Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure
Hi Chris, On my girlfriend's boat, she has the same engine. When starting we set the throttle to about 1/4 to 1/3 then start cranking. Sometimes I'll engage the compression release to get the engine spinning a little faster (about 10 secs) then release it. Another thing we do is flush the engine with fresh water before putting the boat to bed. Hope this helps. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC. WA Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Chris Graham via CnC-List Date: 10/22/18 09:38 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Stus-List diesel engine staring procedure I have a quick question about the specifics of starting a Yanmar SB8 single cylinder engine. The previous owner also disconnected the kill switch and turned off the engine with the key so i want to reattach the cable this spring. Is there a specific amount of throttle to set it at prior to turning it over? I think I remember by old Volvo-Penta had to be positioned at 3/4 open and then immediately dropped down to idle once the engine turned over. anything special I need to know? No real information out there and the old service manuals are pretty much impossible to locate at this point. Thanks for your suggestionsChris___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List prpeller question
Bill,If I remember correctly. On my LF38 I had a 17x12 2 blade and replaced it with a 17x12 3 blade (over propped). A 17x11 3 blade would be about right. I had a 3qm30 yanmar. Doug MountjoySv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Rob - C&C long time question
Don to update your spread sheet. I am in the Port Orchard YC port orchard WA. Have had Rebecca Leah 1.5 yrs. Been sailing 11 years, and boating 30. Came from the dark side in 2006. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device null___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Mold prevention
Dehumidifier. Like this one from Eva-Dry. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/eva-dry-edv-2500-mid-size-dehumidifier-edv-2500 Getting ready to buy one myself the replace the big clunky one I currently have. Doug MountjoySv Rebecca Leah LF39Port Orchard YC Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: David via CnC-List Date: 9/30/18 06:58 (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Stus-List Mold prevention Boat is ventilated ( not dehumified) and bulkheads clean but we get this light patina of easily removed mold on a regular basis. Is there a solution to prevent regrowth or is that the TSP bleach water solution to clean same. From my Android ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Catharsis message
I to feel you pain. I won't say have run aground, but I did not the Ballard railroad bridge when it was down just before I sold Pegasus my LF38. Not only do you have to watch but I guess the sky too. ;) After the pain and suffering and the boat is fixed, you have a great story for the next rendezvous. Doug Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: 7/16/18 08:18 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Catharsis message It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression. This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists. Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well. Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation. We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a local marina. The damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it could have been. When they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the rudder up through the hull. The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed up from grinding on the reef. That sound of hull grinding over rock is now forever seared into my brain. South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious. No one was hurt, except my pride and confidence. Leaving the marina, I now have an appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at sea. At least I will hopefully get mine back. I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what happened and how I could have prevented it. I thought I was hyperaware of all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a few years ago. I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that order. I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things. We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound. It was blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast. With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to the line. We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef. It turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef. I never saw (or recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys. By the time we jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder. I did not see the buoy until I looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were. A hundred yards inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it. I think the Race Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major factor. If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar waters. The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the turn. If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this, I am all ears. A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in general. In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every week, and it has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware of where we are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew. This was an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there. Also in terms of the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the area and seen us and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the next high tide, I have no idea what we would have done.
Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks
Glad to see the plug for Port Townsend Rigging. They are currently redoing my standing rigging, and goose neck. I also added a second sheave for another main halyard that will also work with a trisail. Dan and Lisa along with the rest of the staff are very knowledgeable. I am spending a month in Port Townsend working on Rebecca Leah's mast. Any question I have they take time to explain why something is done this way or that. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: schiller via CnC-List Date: 7/14/18 15:30 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller Subject: Stus-List Lazy Jacks Just finished installing a lazy jack system from Port Townsend Rigging on Grace, our 1983 C&C 35-3. These lazy jacks are stowable at the mast so that the mainsail cover doesn't need to be modified. The kit was well put together. Synthetic line for the cradles, nice Selden cheek blocks. An hour up the mast to install the cheek blocks and two flag halyards, another half an hour or so to install the boom eye straps, cleats and jam cleat and it was done. The first use was great, dropped the main and it all flaked nicely in to the cradle. I am pleased with the cost, quality and ease of installation. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35-3, #028 "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mast paint
I am getting to repaint the mast on my 1988 LF39. Does anyone on here have a clue what paint C&C uses on their spars? The local chandlery suggested Interlux Brightside, not knowing what is currently on there. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advanceDoug Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 455 minutes at 25 amps...
If I remember my electrical schooling. (It's been a looong time) 455 ÷ 60 × 25 = 189.5 amp hours. Hours × amps = amp hours. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: David via CnC-List Date: 7/12/18 15:13 (GMT-08:00) To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Stus-List 455 minutes at 25 amps... I'm still stuck in the old school amp hours capacity. And my new batteries are telling me 455 minutes at 25 amps. Could someone better at this basic concept help me equate this information to amp hour capacity? Rey to set my amp/volt meter. Thanks in advance. Get Outlook for Android ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List where to find a 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch hose adaptor
Wrap the 3/4 outlet with good 3m electrical tape til larger hose will just slide on. then put a hose clamp on. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: 7/11/18 14:16 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank Subject: Stus-List where to find a 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch hose adaptor Replacing the small automatic electric bilge pump - selected one with a 3/4 inch output, but old one had 1 1/8 inch. Can’t find a hose adaptor to make the change so I can keep using the old discharge hose. Suggestions welcome. Eric Frank Cat's Paw, C&C 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous
Not going to make it this year. Maybe next year. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List Date: 7/9/18 09:37 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List Cc: Lee Youngblood Subject: Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous August 10, 11, 12th It’s on my calendar - hope I can make it. . . > On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:06 23AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List > wrote: > > Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find > anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the > dates worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals. > > Chris > 1980 C&C 30MK1 > FCYC > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List VHB tape adhesion
Mark, When I did my windows I didn't use a primer, just stuck the tape (VHB4991) straight on the rough epoxy. You might try roughing up thr primer and wipe with copious amounts of acetone. One thing I learned is put the windows in when they are cool. The plexiglass expands in sunlight by quite a bit. When it cools over time it will pull loose from the 795 causing leaks. Also bevel the edge towards the hull, and slightly round the outer edge. I also rough up the contact area of the plexi.Good luck Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List Date: 7/6/18 13:38 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge Subject: Stus-List VHB tape adhesion Hi All, I'm having the fixed windows replaced on my C&C 37/40+. I had fiberglass work done to clean up the window opening on the deck before putting the new windows on. I bought the windows from South Shore and am having them installed with 3M VHB tape, then Dow 795 caulking. The VHS tape adheres great to the windows, but not so well to the deck. There is 2 part epoxy primer on the window openings and it has been properly cleaned. A test area has been sanded and the tape doesn't appear to stick there much better. There is plenty of heat here in the North Carolina, so that is not the problem. Has anyone else had this issue of the tape not sticking well to the deck and possibly have suggestions that I can pass to the yard? Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '89 C&C 37/40+ "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38.
John,What is the diameter of the holes in your deck? I am replacing all of my deck fills using the Seadog line on my LF39. 3 fuel, 2 water, and 2 waste. http://www.sea-dog.com/search?utf8=✓&search_string=351321-1+&x=0&y=0 Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA Original message From: John via CnC-List Date: 7/6/18 08:40 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38. Almost at the end of my total refit. I am looking for stainless deck fills.See pictures below like the one on the left of the picture. The deck fills have a 3-3/4 inch flange with a 1-1/2 inch hose pipe. We need 3 water, 1 Diesel, and 1 waste. Thanks everyone. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Steaming light guard
I thought the radar some was put there to protect the steaming light. Lol. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Rod Stright via CnC-List Date: 6/28/18 16:56 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rod Stright Subject: Stus-List Steaming light guard Has anyone come up with a good design for a guard to protect your steaming light from damage caused by flailing halyards and headsails in strong winds. I know Forespar makes one https://www.forespar.com/products/sail-light-guard.shtml but I am not sure that that design will do the job as it does not offer a lot of protection at the top of the light. ThanksRod StrightC&C 99 Virus-free. www.avast.com ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
Eric,I just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we check the at the airline I work for). I use a small kitchen scale. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List Date: 6/27/18 08:56 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings Checking the condition of the extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on them. Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years, or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible condition. It would likely have broken had we used it. That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly is now - just passing this along to the group. Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the plastic line should be replaced. Is that safe (and would it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in good condition. Eric Frank Cat's Paw, C&C 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump
The water witch works in all types of water. Plus it will not work in oil or fuel. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Date: 6/22/18 11:02 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump Does anyone have any experience with Water Witch in fresh water (no salt)? I think it needs some electrolyte in order to work. Marek Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 13:20 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Hoyt, Mike Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump A water Witch switch does not need as high a water level to run your pump as a traditional float switch. Is also not mechanical so less prone to failure. We have this switch mated to a diaphragm pump and this leaves very little water in the bilge as the diaphragm pump pickup is very low. Mike Persistence Halifax ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Ray marine autopilot
I need help. My Ray marine X30 autopilot has crapped out on me. Here is the historyLast cruise I noticed the heading was way off. I tried swinging the compass to no avail. Installed a new compass today. Now when I push the auto button I get "NO COMP". I also cannot access the dealer cal screen. I have power to the coarse computer, all fuses are good. I did splice in the new compass (used from ebay) using a small terminal block. Is there a was to test the compass? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads
I had a custom matters pad (came with my new matress), and found the custom sheets didn't work well on my LF38. I used a king fitted sheet folded and tucked under matters, and a queen flat sheet for top tucked under as far as possible. Used full size blankets. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Date: 5/31/18 18:47 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Daniel Sheer Subject: Stus-List v berth sheets and mattress pads Looking for advice on how to make 'em. Dan SheerPegathy LF 38Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List LF39 mast
Does anyone know it the rectangular plate under the mast of the LF39 is attached to the mast or does the mast just sit on it? Doesn't look like the plate will clear mast hole in deck. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked
Paul, a friend had a stainless one made for his Pretorian (old one was stolen). I think he used 3/16 or 1/4 inch stainless plate, made a pattern from 1/4 plywood. Came out a work of art. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Dreuge via CnC-List Date: 5/29/18 11:20 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge Subject: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked Hi, I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast stemhead/bow roller? For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a triangular cast plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers along with the connection point for the forestay. I found a crack in mine, and so I’m looking to replace it with something more rugged and more functional. - Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal
Lloyd enjoy your cruising. From what I've seen so far of LF39 I love it. Look forward to talking to you. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 15:01 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Doug,Am presently in The Bahamas returning to the states early July.Happy to call you then. The 39 is wonderful and happy you have one.Have so enjoyed mine. Lloyd Lippe Finesse LF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 5:50 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: Thanks Lloyd, looks to be what I need to do.I bought this boat a year ago and am still figuring it out. I would love to compare notes and pick your brain about the LF39. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 14:26 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Doug,On mine, just remove the 4 base screws to the floor. Then it appears that you will need to remove the glass rack and everything forward of the mast.You should then be able to then slide the table aft.It has been about 7 years since I did all this so am thinking that is what I did. I recall raising the leafs and having to crawl under to do most of the disassembly, really not hard. Will be easier if you have some help.I think I have seen 2 different table arrangements on the 39, so hopefully we have the same layout and my comments apply.Hope all works out. Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 5:06 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: Hi Lloyd, Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's looking like. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 13:35 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It really is not all that hard. Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal
Thanks Lloyd, looks to be what I need to do.I bought this boat a year ago and am still figuring it out. I would love to compare notes and pick your brain about the LF39. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 14:26 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Doug,On mine, just remove the 4 base screws to the floor. Then it appears that you will need to remove the glass rack and everything forward of the mast.You should then be able to then slide the table aft.It has been about 7 years since I did all this so am thinking that is what I did. I recall raising the leafs and having to crawl under to do most of the disassembly, really not hard. Will be easier if you have some help.I think I have seen 2 different table arrangements on the 39, so hopefully we have the same layout and my comments apply.Hope all works out. Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 5:06 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: Hi Lloyd, Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's looking like. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 13:35 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It really is not all that hard. Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal
Hi Lloyd, Do you have to remove the table top and leaves? That's what it's looking like. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: LKL via CnC-List Date: 5/28/18 13:35 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: lklarchite...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List LF39 mast removal Hello Doug,If it is like mine, would suggest you removing the whole table. It really is not all that hard. Lloyd Lippe FinesseLF 39 Sent from my iPad On May 28, 2018, at 4:19 PM, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List wrote: I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List LF39 mast removal
I am getting ready to pull my mast in July and am wondering how much of the table I need to dissamble. There is a bottle storage area fwd of the mast with slide out pieces fwd and aft of the cover. Any thoughts on this? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
Bill, my old 3qm30 had 2 thermostats. My understanding between the raw water cooled and fresh water cooled is the opening temperature of the thermostats. This was from my local Yanmar dealer. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: William Walker via CnC-List Date: 5/27/18 06:27 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H Josh, I have a drawing from yanmar manual, not quite same as yours. My thermostat cover has bolt pattern different..fore and aft and side to side..I am always confused by "raw water, fresh water" thing...I draw lake water in and through engine and out...no antifreeze or heat exchange..just direct through and out. Bill. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Is your engine fresh water or raw water cooled. By the model number I'm guessing that it is raw water cooled. I don't have the manuals for the QM series but believe that they are the predecessor to the HM and GM. As such many of the parts are interchangeable and much of the design is the same. In my parts diagrams it shows 2 thermostats but only on the raw later cooled versions of the HM/GM. I'll send you a picture off list. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD On Sun, May 27, 2018, 8:35 AM William Walker via CnC-List wrote: Good morning, Yesterday I removed the thermostat cover on top of the exhaust manifold to replace the thermostat which I suspected was bad. I have a yanmar service manual which has detailed drawings of the exhaust manifold on this sea water cooled engine. To my surprise when I removed the cover there were TWO thermostats installed for and aft on starboard side of the exhaust manifold ports. The Yanmar service manual shows only ONE, in the forward port. Since I only had one new thermostat I installed it in the forward port on manifold, cleaned up the other from corrosion and put it back where it was. The second port is machined to accept a thermostat. If you have a yanmar service manual, pictures of this on page 7-A-2 showing one thermostat. Since these two ports are connected internally and water can flow through both I am thinking that this is a safety factor. If one fails the other still may open and allow cooling water to engine. Any thoughts if this second thermostats belongs there? I have been running this engine with it in place for 7 years and I suspect prior owner did as well for a time. Bill Walker Evening Star CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi Sent from AOL Mobile Mail ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing
If bolts are coming loose. I would drill heads for safety wire. Install with Red lock tight and safety wire so the wire gets tighter when bolts loosen. I keep a can of 0.032 dua stainless safety wire on board comes in handy for all sorts of projects. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Date: 5/23/18 16:48 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing Jim’s boat has a Westerbeke 35D engine (3 cyl, 35HP) and Borg Warner BW7 transmission, with the usual V drive arrangement of a LF38. Engine and transmission were both newly installed in 2010. Had 140 hours on engine when the boat was purchased in 2015. About 200 hours on it now, as Jim has said. Seal on the hydraulic pump in the Borg Warner transmission failed during the delivery from Charleston to Washington, NC in 2015 (seal had dried out during a couple of years when the engine only accumulated 4 hours of use by the PO, apparently). So the transmission was rebuilt at that time. There is a “damper” between the engine flywheel and the input shaft of the transmission. According to the illustration in the parts book, it looks sort of like the spring loaded pressure plate in a clutch arrangement. But it seems pretty unlikely that the damper would have failed with only 200 hours on the engine. The Walter v drive hasn’t got much space under it for the coupling, so Jim’s boat has a relatively small diameter coupling with 3 bolts in it. As Jim has said, this is the 3rd time in two years that the bolts have sheared off. As he has said, the feathering prop has been rebuilt, the shaft checked for straightness, bolts replaced (though there is a question whether the latest set is grade 5 or grade 8), engine aligned repeatedly(and BTW the motor mounts are new), etc., etc., etc. Jim (and everyone else aware of the problem) is getting really frustrated. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frank via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 3:39 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frank Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing Jim, I have a 79 38LF, serial number 001. I have had a similar problem.There were a combination of things that caused it.First, the engine was never bedded in the boat properly. I had to cut the engine mounts and rebuild them so the engine could be aligned with the prop shaft.Second, I had the Paragon SAOV transmission and V-drive rebuilt. Most of the internal components of both units were replaced. The prior owner installed a used SAOD and connected the v-drive to it. (Making it a SAOV)But, most important, have you replaced the vibration damper connected to the output shaft of the engine? It looks like a clutch plate but without the clutch material. It is between the engine and the transmission.Mine looked good but upon a thorough inspection it was found to be trash!My problem turned out to be a combination of the above, several “boat yards” aligned the prop with the v-drive but in actuality, there was a significant amount of difference between the two causing the bolts on the coupling to loosen.There was enough play in the v-drive output for it to look good. I would suspect that your vibration damper is not doing it’s job. Frank Frank Noragon S/V: Cool Change C&C 38LF, s/n: 001 Rose City Yacht Club Portland, Oregon From: detroito91 via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 11:48 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Jim Schwartz Cc: detroito91 Subject: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38. The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and checked after the second time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.I am looking for advice, suggestions, similar situations and corrections. HELPLosing confidence in boat.ThanksJim schwartz SEA YA I 38 LF Washington nc ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reading lines
Thanks to all for the info on my reading lines. Reefing lines. Stupid spell check. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Date: 5/21/18 15:32 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Reading lines The sail area on your LF39 is actually slightly less than the sail area on my 38-2 – and your main is smaller than mine because of the center cockpit. FWIW, all of my reefing lines are 3/8” diameter – Sta-Set if I recall correctly. Rick BrassWashington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of svrebeccaleah via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2018 6:53 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svrebeccaleah Subject: Stus-List Reading lines Looking for advice. I need to replace the main reefing lines on my LF39. Currently I have for #1 reef pt is a 9/16 line and #2 &3 are 1/2 line, not sure of line type. Want something thinner and lighter. I don't race, just go cruising. Plan on a lot of offshore in near future. What are your expert opinions? Doug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Reading lines
Looking for advice. I need to replace the main reefing lines on my LF39. Currently I have for #1 reef pt is a 9/16 line and #2 &3 are 1/2 line, not sure of line type. Want something thinner and lighter. I don't race, just go cruising. Plan on a lot of offshore in near future. What are your expert opinions? Doug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack?
I put one on my LF39 DUE to the center cockpit. It has a line at the mast that allows me to open and close it. Worth every penny. Mine is from Doyle. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: 5/16/18 12:09 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Stus-List Anyone Have A Stack Pack? Listers, Has anyone installed a Stack Pack (http://www.doylesails.com/stackpack/index.html) or similar? Pros? Cons? All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts
Thanks for the offer but all I need is the foil screws. I hope. Pulling my mast in July. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 5/15/18 18:43 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts Screws. I should have asked sooner – as I said, I already cut up and recycled the foils. I did not think to remove the screws first (which were secured with red Loctite). Sorry. With the exception of the foil pieces, I do have the other various screws. Does that help? From: svrebeccaleah via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 7:40 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: svrebeccaleah Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts Matt, were your foils aka torque tube connections secures with rivets or screws? I need 6 screws for my old harken furler. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 5/15/18 10:42 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts Listers: Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model. The new one is nearly finished, and I cut up/recycled the old foils. Before I recycle the rest of the old parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque tube)? Please advise if you do. Thanks. Matt Wolford C&C 42 Custom ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts
Matt, were your foils aka torque tube connections secures with rivets or screws? I need 6 screws for my old harken furler. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" Date: 5/15/18 10:42 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" Subject: Stus-List Harken original roller furler parts Listers: Due to the inability to replace a broken torque tube, I am upgrading from a Harken original roller furler (1980s vintage MK 1, but not called that), Unit 2, to the newer Harken model. The new one is nearly finished, and I cut up/recycled the old foils. Before I recycle the rest of the old parts, does anyone have an interest in them (aside from the broken torque tube)? Please advise if you do. Thanks. Matt Wolford C&C 42 Custom ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Barient winch parts
In cleaning and lubing my barient winches I found one with the self tailer tension screws broken. Does any one know where the might be found? I need minimum 2 screws and 2 springs for a 21ST. I haven't checked to see if they are the same size on all of my winches. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Gold Stripe...
Looks good. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" Date: 5/13/18 10:34 (GMT-08:00) To: CnClist Cc: "Dennis C." Subject: Re: Stus-List Gold Stripe... Highly recommend this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchcal-Premium-Striping-Metallic/dp/B0010AZRMU See it applied here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsckJWcWNldEFydjg Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Sun, May 13, 2018 at 9:56 AM, David via CnC-List wrote: Replacing the gold stripe on hull beneath toerail. Any suggestions for a vendor for a quality product? Thanks in advance. David F. Risch Gulf Stream Associates, LLC (401) 419-4650 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List How do you tow your Dinghy and bring it aboard
Hi Dan,Having towed, and hauled a dinghy all over the Pacific NW. I can say that davits are the easiest. I use the spin halyard for hoisting on deck for long passages. For short towing I tow (without the motor) the dinghy pulled up close with the bow as far up on the mothership transom as possible. Least amount of Dinghy in water as possible. I use a stern cleat. Towing with motor attached I tow with a long line so the dinghy is just falling off front side of mothership wake. Hope I explained this right. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club, WA. Original message From: Dan via CnC-List Date: 5/11/18 09:18 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dan Subject: Stus-List How do you tow your Dinghy and bring it aboard Hi All, We JUST bought our first dinghy and it's time to figure out how to have it interact with the mothership... No Davits... We have a 1986 C&C44 (with the ridiculously long reversed transom)... There is no obvious towing fitting around the transom other than a couple of rings that the previous owner added but both are only held on by a couple of screws. How do people typically tow their dinghies? - from the aft Cleats? IS it prudent to attempt to raise the dinghy form the water by way of the mast swung out abeam with a couple shackles (like a crane) for deck storage? Thanks guys! Dan Breakaweigh 1986 C&C44 Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine
Edd, I would go with nothing less than 750 cca, space permitting. The more the better. The bigger battery will last longer. I am using a group 27 to start my Yanmar 4jhe44. I took out a 20 year old group 31 that was still working. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Date: 4/30/18 13:23 (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List Cc: Edd Schillay Subject: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine Listers, What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to warm up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine? All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
Pegasus my old 38LF had been converted to fresh water cooling. Dont remember who made the heat exchanger. It used the cam driven vane pump (old raw water pump) as the recirculating pump. Replaced the impeller once in 10 years of ownership. Yes access did suck. Never had an issue of that pump failing. Only overheating issues I had was when the heat exchanger tubes became clogged. My 39LF has the engine installed the right way (no vdrive) and good access to everything except the dripless shaft packing. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA. Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List Date: 4/30/18 11:39 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM Silly me. Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the factory. It is a Yanmar 3HM 30. No (F) on the engine tag. I had never even bothered to look.. Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK. I even had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump. Turns out there’s more going on. Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one but two raw water pumps. As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt. So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year. Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an owner conversion? My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will always burn up impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are. At one point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been built since 1983.This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless mixing elbowFinding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversionKeep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend money.Any suggestions would be welcome..Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE
I haven't heard of these but after a quick search they look like they would work great. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List Date: 3/28/18 05:19 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Danny Haughey Subject: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE HI, Has anyone used these screws? I was thinking of putting my salon back together with them. Thanks, Danny ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List water heater
I installed an Isotherm in Pegasus and was very happy with it for 10 years I had the boat. Have an old Raritan in Rebecca Leah and not too impressed. From a live aboard stand point. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA. Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List Date: 3/2/18 11:04 (GMT-08:00) To: C&C List Cc: Marek Dziedzic Subject: Stus-List water heater I have to replace my water heater. I was wondering if there is a common wisdom on which ones are good and which ones are to be avoided. It looks like Kuuma, Camco and Seaward are available here (and all seem to look the same or very similar). I am looking for a 5-6 gal. heater that can use the engine coolant (and potentially AC, but this is secondary). Any recommendations (or warnings) would be appreciated thanks Marek 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Battery power
Fred, will the link 2000 work on a Prosine 2.5 inverter/charger? Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List Date: 2/12/18 12:39 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery power If you don’t have a Xantrex charger/inverter, I’d suggest the Xantrex LinkPRO instead of the Link 2000: http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linkpro-battery-monitor.aspx It’s very reasonably priced (around $250.00 for the two-bank monitor), and made for standalone operation. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 12, 2018, at 2:23 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: David, While there are calculations you can use, rate of battery discharge is also affected by battery age and temperature. And, since I’m really, really good at spending other people’s money, I’d suggest installing a Battery Monitoring System: https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289954%7C2289950&id=1130644 I have a similar system on the Enterprise — A Heart Interface Link 2000. See https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Heart-Interface-Link-2000-Complete/132499499047?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dfe0fb3de9f6c425585c79ccae997251d%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D302615330618%26itm%3D132499499047&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598 Properly installed and programed, you can see how much time you have left on your house bank with the draw you are using at any given time. All the best, Edd Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Portable generator question
I use a Honda 2000i companion (has 30 amp plug) as a backup power source. At least until I get my solar up and running. The Honda is quiet and wind disturb neighbors in anchorage. I would Put the honda on the bow and not hear it in the cockpit. The 2000 will also power a hot water heater, or 1500 watt space heater. A friend uses a Honda 2000 at night to keep his wife's turtle warm on their Irwin 52. Don't ask. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Damian Greene via CnC-List Date: 2/12/18 09:54 (GMT-08:00) To: C&C List Cc: Damian Greene Subject: Stus-List Portable generator question A question for your collective wisdom: I am scoping out upgrading my stock 55A alternator to a 100A Balmar, and related upgrades to the controls. I had a very productive discussion with Rod Collins at Compass Marine (mainesail), and we worked out the details. Unfortunately he's booked out through the spring, so this job will wait until next winter. So thinking then about keeping the batteries charged, and the fridge running on our long summer cruise - where we may go for weeks without access to shore power, I got wondering about using a portable generator to charge the batteries - as an alternative to many hours of running the diesel. There are a couple of Hondas that might do the trick 2000 Watt, weighing 47#, 1000 Watt weighing 29#. Have any of you tried this? What could (would) go wrong if I plugged this generator into my inverter, to charge the batteries? Regards, Damian 1986 Sabre 38 FreefallPreviously 1984 C&C 34 GhostBass Harbor, Maine___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Batteries
When I bought Rebecca Leah in June I knew she needed new batteries, 6 group 31 agm's. The PO told me that the batteries were the same as when he bought her in 2003. Knowing I had to pull up the floor boards to easily access them I waited. Today I pulled out the old ones. They were west marine installed in 3/98, at least that was what was written on top. 2 had failed when I bought her. The others were dying fast. I found new Lifelines from wholesalebatteriesdirect.comGroup 31 125 amp hour for less than $400 ea free shipping an no taxes. I bought 6 group 27 deep cycle for $306 ea. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Rebecca Leah Lf39___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement
The only thing can add (after doing 10 windows) is that the surface need to be flat and smooth, install and seal out of direct sunlight, minimum 3/16 gap for sealing, slight bevel on both sides of plexi ( more on tape side) outside just enough to remove sharp edge, and when sealing push sealant with nozzle. Then smooth in one stroke for best finish. Also let them know they get one shot at the windows. Once the plexi touches the tape it is STUCK!! I put the tape in cut out even with inside edge of opening. Use a spacer on bottom edge to position plexi in opening. Good luck. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard Yacht Club Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Mark Baldridge via CnC-List Date: 2/9/18 16:20 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mark Baldridge Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ window replacement Hi All, I'm in discussion with the yard to replace the fixed windows on my 37/40+ this spring. They barely leak, but there are vertical splits on both sides of the forward windows and in big downpours do leak. I currently have blue tape on them to stop the leaks when I'm not around. I want them replaced and looking sharp before the wife picks out new upholstery for the interior. So far I'm looking at having them use 3M 4991 VHB tape and Dow 795 caulking. For those that have this done, any tips I should pass on to the folks doing the work. Also what was used for the windows, "cast" plexiglass? and what thickness? I've read 3/8 in posts, but I've been told 1/4" would work better due to the curvature of the adhesion area. Thanks, Mark Baldridge ~~_/) '89 C&C 37/40+ "The Edge" Surf City, NC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings?
Try marinesan.com, they are the local marine sanitation dealer here in Seattle. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Date: 2/5/18 18:47 (GMT-08:00) To: C&C List Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Stus-List Source for LDP Water Tank Inspection Port Caps & O-Rings? Hello all, I have a water tank inspection cap that is leaking when the tank is full, and the DPO thought it a good idea to apply silicone sealer to all the o-rings on all 5 caps> He also applied silicone sealer to nearly every exterior nut, bolt and screw, but that's another story. Ugh... Here's some links to a couple photos: https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7rcwh7wfwm9nne/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%203.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/rj310g6xy9nozh1/Cap%20for%20LDP%20Water%20Tank%202.jpg?dl=0 Anyone know a source where I can find these caps and their o-rings? Thank you! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile) bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List insurance
I am with Red Sield $850 for $60k. This is also live aboard, think my deductible is $1000. Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39POYC, WA Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List Date: 2/3/18 12:50 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace ahycrace Subject: Stus-List insurance Hello all Well I just got my insurance bill from boat US and it went up 238$ a pretty big increase. I called to ask why and they said it was nothing on my end rates just went up. I am wondering if everybody else got raised as well? I tried to increase my deductible which is zero, to say 4% or so to lower my rates. They said they can't do that because they have a automatic lowering of the deductible over time and once it reaches zero it must stay there. Sounds like they just want to keep the bill up! 1100$ for 40k, might have to start shopping, any feedback? Gary K "Liberty" 1976 38' MKll___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray