Thanks folks for all the advice on my marine head. I purchased the Wilcox
Crittenden Headmate kit from wet marine so wish me luck. Plan to rebuild
the pump this week-end.
Next thing I'd like to update is to put in is to replace the traveller
stops with some actual rigging. Anyone have any
Anyone else who owns a C 29 mark II have problems where water pools on
the aft part of the gunwales just inside the toe rail? I noticed the water
doesn't run out and I'm curious if it's unique to my boat or others have
had the same problem. No intrusion has occurred as far as I can tell.
Also
Trying to identify the correct toilet repair kit for my marine head on my
C 29 Mark II 1984/85. It is clearly a Wilcox Crittenden. The pump is
leaking fresh water out of the top when pumping and when heeled over there
is significant backflow from the tank. :-( I'm pretty sure the joker valve
is
Hello,
I'm in the escrow in the purchase of a C 29 Mark II circa 84/85; I
realize the seller might be on this list. :-) Curious if anyone has
experience taking them on extended cruises and how the 29's mkii's handle
in heavy seas and high wind (BF 5+). I wouldn't intentionally sail into a
gale,
Hi Bob,
Thanks for the welcome, and sorry about the subject foobar.
I'm getting pretty excited and that spreader design sounds pretty rock
solid and aligns well with what I've read. Assuming all goes well with the
rest of the inspection and I close I'm planning on sailing her over to the
Apostle
The base of the bulkhead on the C 29 Mk II I'm in escrow on has some soft
wood and the tabbing has separated. This is the bulkhead just aft of the
head that the table is mounted on. Does anyone have experience with
repairing this and any recommendations. My plan is to sand/grind out the
existing
Any good source for instrument covers that fit the classic square depth
gauge and knot meter? Or any ideas for good substitute covers?
Second question, I'm thinking about putting a anchor mount/roller on and am
wondering if anyone else has done it on a 29 mk II and what mount they
used/works
Hi Folks,
I just purchased a C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise on
upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat which
scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm
following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge
Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair. The
boat I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after
drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel
webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not
Hi Jerry,
Do you have a picture of the conversion? I want to replace my traveller on
my 29-2 and I'd love to see what you did.
Thanks,
Gene
29-2
Hawk
On Wed, Jul 27, 2016 at 10:10 AM, wrote:
>
>
> My C 29-2 came with a Schaefer 1 inch traveller car that is no
Hi Ron,
I have not seen any signs of rust, but I'm in Lake Superior (and always
have been AFAIK), so that may be why there's no/little rust yet. I also
have no noticable leaks and the bulges are not huge, but definitely
noticeable when on the hard. There are some small cracks in the lead around
ertainly something going on
> around the keel bolt. Drilling into the cavity may reveal the cause. In
> any case, holes are easy to fill. Time for some exploratory surgery.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> Jake Brodersen
>
> C 35 Mk-III ?Midnight Mistress?
>
> Hampt
Hi There,
I'm looking to get some opinions on how to treat some bulging around one of
my keel bolts. It is symmetrical and I believe it is from a small amount of
water intrusion around the bolt and then freezing during the winter. The
recommendation from the marina was to drill holes into the
Hi Jeremy,
I haven't had any problems when there's no wind (knock on wood), but
crosswinds definitely make it a tough go. On my last sail of the season
this year, I came into my side of a double slip single handed with a strong
crosswind blowing me off. Just missed my window for a safe step off
I have a C 29 mark 2 and I'm looking for thoughts on bow roller options.
I saw some of the custom designs on the website, but I'm wondering if there
are any off the shelf rollers that will work with the C cast metal
bowsprit/nose. I measured the channel on it and it's 1-13/16 inches and
most OD
I have a crack at my hull/keel joint and am debating filling it with 4200.
It is no significant and as I understand it this is pretty normal for boats
with an external keel. My concern is that since my boats up north in
Wisconsin and spends a good amount of time frozen, I'm wondering if filling
it
An example of
> this is when concrete reinforced slabs develop cracks sufficient to allow
> water to penetrate to the rebar. Over time, the slab will fail as an
> integral unit.
>
> Bill Dakin
> 25MKII
>
> On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 12:35 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
ss tape bandage all the way around the keel.
> >
> > Here is a different prescription:
> >
> > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/
> view?usp=drivesdk
> >
> > Good luck,
> > Josh Muckley
> > S/V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37
Hi Kevin,
Dittos on the lag screws. Also, be sure to do a dry fit including making
sure that you can get all the hoses attached. I believe I used 5200 (or
4200) on the holes and also on the lag screws. My head had a wood backer
underneath the fiberglass platform.
Gene
"Hawk"
C 29-2 '84
> On
Anyone have an idea of signs to look for to make sure I'm not
overtightening my keel bolts on my C 29-2? I tightened them last weekend
using a torque wrench and went to about 205 ft lbs for the 1 in bold and
about 70 ft lbs for the the 1/2 inch; both of which are below the values
listed on the
I'm planning on checking the torque on my keel bolts this week-end. My boat
is on the hard. I see the torque chart values on the C website, but it
doesn't indicate whether or not to lubricate the bolts and what to use if
you do lubricate. It's my understanding from a little research that the
I managed to find a DIY solution to getting my keel bolts up to torque
(>300 ft lbs) measured without spending a fortune (~$200) on a high end
torque wrench. I found this handy torque measurement tool for $99 on Amazon
and an mighty breaker bar:
Neiko 20743A 3/4" Digital Torque Adapter | 147
I really need to add a roller solution on my 29-2 and I'm wondering what
other folks have done. I'd like to do something that works well and is
simple. I currently have a Lewmar Claw/Danforth Anchor that is 22 lbs and a
bit of a beast to drop without a roller. I would like to keep it on the
roller
I have an Eberspacher D1L heater on my boat and found a manual online.
Anyone have any experience repairing these and debugging tips? Would be
nice to be able to run it at anchor.
Thanks,
Gene
"Hawk"
C 29-2
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I noticed that my stuffing box has started leaking pretty badly and suspect
that the flax has never been replaced. I tightened it up once, but think
it's at it's end.
Does anyone know what size flax to use in the nut?
Thanks,
Gene Fodor
'Hawk' C 29-2
Hi All,
On my C 29 mk II, I believe I'm getting leaks from the toerail holes.
Have any of you performed rebedding? Looking for any advise you might have.
I found this article http://www.islander36.org/toerails.html on rebedding
and am wondering if the process would be the same on my boat. Some
Hi Dennis and List Folks,
That's a good recommendation, I've used the Captain Tolley's on several
other leaky places on the boat with success, and this would be a decent way
to mitigate it for a few more years.
Curious if anyone else has rebedded their toerails and what was involved?
Thanks,
Hi,
I'm about to replace mine as well on my C 29 mk 2. My stuffing is 5/16"
and was surprised it only had two rings of flax. I'm planning on using the
GFO Gore (http://gfopacking.com) as it's supposed to last longer although
more expensive. I'm not sure if 3 rings will fit, but I will attempt to
Thanks, that's exactly what I ended up doing and I didn't even have to hack
into the tank as the sheet metal was held together with screws. I then only
had to get to 13 and 5/8 inches so that only required taking of about 1/8
inch from either side which had plenty of lip to spare. The new West
Got a new water heater and noticed that both the new one west marine box
and the old one Raritan won't fit through the opening on the Lazarette. The
opening is a half inch too narrow (13.5). The opening glass though has
plenty to spare, so I'm thinking of just widening it up with a jigsaw or
I suggest trying your local natural gas companies. I was only able to find
1 place in the entire state of Minnesota that could refill tanks when I was
using CNG. It was also a pain to deal with the company because they weren't
a really service station. I basically had to call ahead and even then
Well, I wish I had known that 9 months ago. I went through considerable
gymnastics to get mine even close to the C spec pages and now I'm
concerned I've overtightened them. I did stop a bit shy of the values, but
I noticed that the washers deformed considerably when I tightened them. I
did sail my
So my bilateral keelbolt bulge is back from water intrusion down the keel
bolt on my 29-2. Two years ago I drilled (hoping to release said water, but
found nothing), hammered, epoxied and painted it flat again. Planning to do
the same thing again. My guess is that the trapped water simply freezes
That's a great suggestion. I did drill it in the fall the first time I did
the repair (drilled in the fall, repaired in the spring). The trick is
trying to find the void. I may need to drill a few holes. :-(
Gene
On Thu, Apr 18, 2019 at 11:33 AM Ken Heaton wrote:
> " Two years ago I drilled
Hi Alan,
I think my surveyor missed it on the initial report and we discussed it as
I recall. I recall seeing it when I first purchased the boat. It's a pretty
common with northern C's when I spoke to Eric Thomas the marina owner at
Barker's Island. He had suggested the drilling/hammering/etc
Hi Ray,
This is also on my project list. You can find instructions on the web
pretty easily via Google. I believe this link has service instructions for
your model including diagram and assembly/disassembly:
http://l-36.com/winches.php
Gene
Hawk
C 29-2
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2019
My 2GMF 13HP on my 29 mk 2 is dropping RPMs at max throttle under load. It
also appears to drift a bit while operating at a fixed throttle. Tied at
the dock forward seems to have more difficulty that reverse. I should be
able to get up to 3200-3400 RPM (and have been able to in recent times with
Yeah, unfortunately that doesn't help, in forward gear I'm not even
consistently hitting 2800 (more like 25-26). I've been able to get up to
3600 so something is definitely wrong and has changed for the worse. Also,
prop and shaft look fine. I dove the boat while we were out and it all
checks out.
Hi Bruce,
I have a Yanmar 2GMF (~14HP) and have been perplexed by the same symptoms
and perhaps the same issue (no load RPM is 3600, load caps around
2500-2800 forward, 3000 in reverse). It did not do this a prior to August
or in years past I could get up to 3600 in forward gear with no issue. I
We put the swing table and 4 cup pedestal cup holder from SnapIt on our
29-2. They've held up well and were not too terribly expensive. I also have
the handheld device holder for our marine radio. They aren't pretty, but
they are easy to maintain.
http://snapitproducts.com/marine
Gene Fodor
Hi,
When we bought our C 29-2 4 years ago, the dodger being in great
condition was a big plus. It didn't affect the price much but increased the
value of the boat. I never think about investing in my boat as something
that will give me any return on my investment. I think about the
improvements
I'm 48, and bought Hawk when I was 44. I didn't start sailing until I was
in my early 30s when my wife proposed that we sell everything and sail
around the world. I said we better learn to sail first. :D We haven't sold
everything yet, but definitely now have a lifelong passion for sailing.
Gene
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