Woops I didn't send to the list.Carl
In a message dated 10/11/2013 7:47:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gypsym...@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 10/11/2013 7:31:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
w1es1...@triad.rr.com writes:
If swapping the tube brings no resolution, check all th
R4a s/n 5404b has erratic, changing audio levels. 6EH5 (V7) gets very
HOT! Pin voltages and resistance readings a little off ( IAW tube chart
in alignment procedure). Can tap tube and change audio and signal
levels. Changed tube with no improvement. Previous posts show very
different voltage an
PM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
>
> Hi Tom:
>
> The collector goes to hard saturation value. Less than
.2V. I did the
test using a
gt; that says hand chosen.
>>
>> Oh well. Have fun!
>>
>> Tom Holmes, N8ZM
>> Tipp City, OH
>> EM79
>>
>>
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
>> [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
>&g
drakelist@zerobeat.net <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
>
> Hi Tom:
>
> The collector goes to hard saturation value. Less than .2V. I
did the
test using a
> Huntron on a few of the swaps just
> > From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
> [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
> > On Behalf Of Curt Nixon
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:30 PM
> > To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
> >
> > Hi T
urt Nixon
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 12:30 PM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
>
> Hi Tom:
>
> The collector goes to hard saturation value. Less than .2V. I did the
test using a
> Huntron on a few of the swaps just
her clues.
Happy hunting!
Tom Holmes, N8ZM
Tipp City, OH
EM79
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Curt Nixon
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 11:43 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A-B Dete
ues.
Happy hunting!
Tom Holmes, N8ZM
Tipp City, OH
EM79
> -Original Message-
> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
> On Behalf Of Curt Nixon
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 11:43 AM
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: Re
, OH
EM79
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Curt Nixon
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:40 AM
To: Drake Forum
Subject: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
GM All:
Has anyone else had trouble getting a general
City, OH
EM79
> -Original Message-
> From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
> On Behalf Of Curt Nixon
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2013 10:40 AM
> To: Drake Forum
> Subject: [Drakelist] R4A-B Detector Amp Q5
>
> GM All:
>
&g
GM All:
Has anyone else had trouble getting a general purpose sub working in
the Q5 AM detector amp position?
I tried several close NTE GP subs and also a 3393 which is same
parameters ex Hfe which is slightly different.
The transistor comes on but with the grounded emitter, pulls the
col
I pitted my R4a against the R8 and found the R8 hearing signals the R4A missed.
A weak signal from Radio New Zealand on 6170 was faint but there on the R8,
only static with R4A. is the R8 noted for better sensitivity or noise level? It
is a lot newer of course with every bell and whistle.
_
A 60W light bulb in series with the AC line works just as well or better, and is a lot easier, (and
cheaper!)
It also prevents you from turning the Variac up to 130+ VAC, which most will do
all too easily.
An R-4A should draw a little less than 0.5A after warm up.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen
What is the optimum AC current for the R4A? Are the >100.00 variacs on Ebay
good enough for bringing up Drake tube equipment?
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l for who-knows-how-much-longer :)
Pics tonight, then swap the old PTO back in - just because I know not every
problem is a single-point failure.
BTW, Garey - are you going to Shelby?
73,
Steve, W1ES/4
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 10:55:20 -0400
>From: Garey Barrell
>To: d
former life, I know this all too well!!. Which may have something to do with why there are very
few 'Analog' (RF) Engineers any more, just 'DIGITS'!!! At least until they start investigating PC
trace lengths!! :-)
Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell
Sen
and what's inside that "magic box" that has such a deceptively
simple circuit but is actually pretty complex physically.
73,
Steve, W1ES
-Original Message-
>From: Garey Barrell
>Sent: Aug 17, 2011 10:20 PM
>To: Steve Wedge
>Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: Re: [
Could be..
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
Curt Nixon wrote:
Or just bad grounds on the board. (mounting screws?)
Curt
Garey Barrell wrote:
Steve -
Is this an 'early' R-4A?? The early ones had a common-base bu
Or just bad grounds on the board. (mounting screws?)
Curt
Garey Barrell wrote:
Steve -
Is this an 'early' R-4A?? The early ones had a common-base buffer
stage which would be a little more sensitive to loading, but I
wouldn't have thought that much.
I just took a look at an early R-4A PTO
Steve -
Is this an 'early' R-4A?? The early ones had a common-base buffer stage which would be a little
more sensitive to loading, but I wouldn't have thought that much.
I just took a look at an early R-4A PTO area on the _"CD"_ (!) :-), and see that in fact the
output lead IS a rather he
My neck discs are about to curtail my playing around with this very stubborn
receiver for the evening (I'm hoping the doctor's fix on Friday works better
than my attempts at fixing this receiver!).
I plugged in my junker T-4XB this afternoon and hooked it up the the R-4A. Did
it for a couple o
Continuation from last night:
If I attempt to run an R4A from a pure sine wave 130 watt inverter, can I ruin
the inverter or just blow a fuse? If it's just a fuse, I'll give it a try.
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Try it and see!
If it doesn't work, get the next largest size they're all pretty cheap
right now.
The power supply for my laptop is 90W and I've got a small-ish "road
warrior" laptop!
John K5MO
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On Jul 20, 2011, at 7:55 AM, Neil M Califano wrote:
The power consumption of the R4a is 60 watts and I'd like to run the
radio off my 12 volt car cigarette lighter using a 130 watt PSW
inverter. I think the fuse is 10 amps. So 12.5 volts x 10 amps=125
watts. But I heard of fuses blowing ru
The power consumption of the R4a is 60 watts and I'd like to run the radio off
my 12 volt car cigarette lighter using a 130 watt PSW inverter. I think the
fuse is 10 amps. So 12.5 volts x 10 amps=125 watts. But I heard of fuses
blowing running only laptops. It looks good on paper, but practicall
I'd start by replacing V5 if you have a spare. If not, just swap with V4. If no effect, replace V1
and/or V4. If still no luck, we'll have to make some measurements in and around Q4.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
r
With my R4A s/n 6759, have distortion of a sideband signal when RF gain control
at maximum, AVC on "fast". CW signal is normal, and there is no distortion
with the AVC off or on "slow" or with RF gain lower. I'm recalling the AVC
setup can be difficult to get right, appreciate any advice befor
Frank -
The R-4A didn't have a bright inlay on the MAIN TUNING knob. It was a plain black knob, with a flat
metal skirt, same as used on the R-4 and TR-3. The 'brights' didn't come along until the "B-Line".
That said, many switched to the B-Line knob when it came out, along with the tilted d
Check with Alan, KC9YS. He recently supplied me with a new VFO knob set for a
B line. He may also be able to provide just the inlays.
Paul, W9AC
- Original Message -
From: FRANK MILLER
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 9:21 PM
Subject: [Drakelist
Does anyone know for sure if there is a source for the knob inlay that has the
small skirt
or rim around the edge as apposed to being flat? The sources on the DRAKE lists
do not
respond to my inquiry.
Frank WA0ILV___
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Drakelist@zer
I just HAVE to ask this one, Neil after looking at your posts. Do you read
schematics?? Since the headphones jack shuts off the speaker and both
outputs are both tied to the same transformer and are effected by the volume
control, it would certainly appear to be amplified. If you don't have a
Is the R4A headphone jack line level output or amplified output?
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Paul,
How's your TR-4 working after replacing the filters?
I always enjoy reading your blog.
73,
Kihwal, K9SUL
From: Paul Gerhardt
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A PTO
- Original Me
- Original Message -
From: "Kihwal Lee"
To: ; "drakelist"
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO
Dear OMs on this thread, (Do not try to visualize this)
Here is my report I promised yesterday:
While I was checking cold solder joints, I checked the condu
It's inside the T6 can.
Kihwal, K9SUL
From: Neil M Califano
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 10:21 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] R4A filter location
Where physically in the R4A is the crystal lattice f
Where physically in the R4A is the crystal lattice filter?
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-Original Message-
>From: Neil M Califano
>Sent: Apr 25, 2011 1:29 AM
>To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: [Drakelist] R4A/B Push-Pull?
>
>Is the audio in the R4A and R4B push-pull?
Both are single-ended c
Is the audio in the R4A and R4B push-pull?
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Awhile ago my R4A stopped receiving SSB/CW. With Garey's help, determined C173
was bad. Voltage measurements showed low voltage to Q6 etc, found R139 was 470
ohms per schematic that came with my R4A, someone had obviously replaced that
resistor. Except, the schematic did NOT match my s/n 67
Curt -
The four slugs in either the receiver or transmitter should never be
adjusted _UNLESS_ someone has already been 'fixing' them and you are
SURE they are misadjusted.
Receiver -
I don't recommend Section VIII, C, 8 & 9. Again, this does not need
adjustment _UNLESS_ (see above!).
Am considering alignment of an R-4A ( except for the preselector procedure )
and T-4X ( except for T4, T5, T6, & T7 slug adjustment ) per the manual
instructions. But, recall reading on this list that certain of the
instructions should NOT be performed.
Any other items other than the two I've
king.
>>
>> I checked the voltages back in 2008 and they were fine, and it was working
>> when I stuck it on the shelf when I got the R4B.
>>
>> Chuck, K1OM
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Richard Knoppow
>> <1oldle.
l Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent"
mailto:ch...@chuckg.com>>
To: "drakelist" mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>>
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO
Well, since I couldn't make out the markings o
d Knoppow <1oldle...@ix.netcom.com>wrote:
>
> - Original Message - From: "Chuck Grandgent"
> To: "drakelist"
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 11:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO
>
>
>
> Well, since I couldn't make out the marki
- Original Message -
From: "Chuck Grandgent"
To: "drakelist"
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4A no BFO
Well, since I couldn't make out the markings on the VR
tube in both my R4A
and R4B, I just drove over to vacuumtubes.
Well, since I couldn't make out the markings on the VR tube in both my R4A
and R4B, I just drove over to vacuumtubes.net (next town over) and got a
couple 0B2's, these with clear markings.
But, voltages in my R4A are still high, just as described below.
So anyway, they weren't 0A2's in there, they
I dusted off the R4A that I retired maybe 3 years ago when i got an R4B, as
I recall it WAS working fine when I put it on the shelf, but I could be
wrong.
Signals seem plenty strong. but no BFO though signals seem plenty strong,
sounds like it's ALMOST oscillating.
It's the 11-tube mode, serial 698
Here's a progress report or update on the preselector slippage issue.
Gary Poland sent me a solution and a diagram explaining his fix. I tried it
last night it worked very well.
To those with a similar problem you might want to try Gary's suggestion, if
you're not already familiar with it.
Basica
Interesting comments and I have no doubt you guys have nailed the problem...
simply, old age!!
The good news is: I can get the preselector pointer to move into the 15 and
10 meter sections if I pull the knob very hard towards me as I turn it to
the right -- not an ideal solution -- but, it does wo
You're a brave guy Paul...ever machine SS? Not something guys at home
would normally be successful at.
Why SS anyway? it isn't all that great a bearing material..Just curious.
Is it a standard diameter by any chance--at least in the area of the
ball contact? If so, some ground drill-rod mig
John Kriner's repair kit does *NOT* include a new center shaft or ball
bearings. I have the same problem with one of my R-4As and after disassembly
of the preselector vernier I confirmed a groove in the center shaft. I
have purchased some SS rod and at some point am going to attempt to tur
Joe -
Sounds like wear in the vernier drive. The steel balls tend to wear a
groove in the center shaft after 40 years or so.
You may be able to get a repair kit from John Kriner, I don't know if he
still has them. 'The Man's Amateur Parts Supply' or 'tr7dude' on eBay.
Another list member
Fellows I have a question about the preselector on my R4A:
The red pointer doesn't want to move past the 15 mark on the dial face. If I
apply some light upward pressure to the bar connected to the three tuning
slugs the dial will pointer will move up to the 10 mark and pull the slugs
further out of
Joe,
It can be a pain to reassemble. I usually slide the brass sleeve on first,
butt the shafts together, position the spring clip against the edges of the
shafts flat area, and slid the sleeve over the clip. Its not the easiest task
to do as you have found out.
73, Gary
___
Hi guys:
I took off the front panel of my R4A to clean the grime off of it and it's
looking like new! I'm putting it back together and I'm having a dickens of a
time trying to reassemble the passband tuning shaft and coupler. As you know
there's a small spring clip that goes under the sliding brass
Just for everyone's info I just got done conversing with Tom at Hayseed about
kits and shipping charges. If you order multiple kits the PayPal system will
include S/H for EACH kit but as Tom pointed out there is a maximum
shipping/handling charge of $10; until he can fix the web site system his
Joe,
You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A (both 13 and 11-tube
versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link:
_http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/_ (http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/)
I just re-capped one of each type using the Hayseed Hamfest kits and
they work great
Joe -
Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps? The
original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC. Another
section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n
3040. But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the
wild' in
There's someone on the net that does "reproduction capacitors" and can sell you
a new one.
On 17-Sep-10 14:54, Edward Swynar wrote:
*/On Friday, Joe wrote:/*
*//*
/"...How do you feel about mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead
of restuffing? Does that pretty much ruin
the histor
On Friday, Joe wrote:
"...How do you feel about mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead
of restuffing? Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of
course, I'd leave the old can in place for looks..."
***
Hi Joe,
Hi guys,
I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd like
to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks like a very
tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps (total of 5
capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about mounting new caps in
Hi, I just posted a question about my TX4B, but *also* have a problem with a
R4A receiver.
The receiver seems to work pretty good, except I do have some trouble tuning
LSB signals so they can be understood. In other words, garble is all I get.
The weirdness is that not all the signals are like tha
ok i checked all the voltages on the tube sockets. all are withing a few
volts. i did remove the 12av6 and the voltage at tp2 did drop to a
adjustable -1.3 volts. so i guessing that it is the bad tube or one of
the related resistors may have changed value. i will find out tonight.
thanks all for th
I too have an original R-4a here in constant use. m
I assume you have done the manual describes S meter adjustment. first
for zero then span..iterate till it is good at both ends?
Mine actually drifts around some day to day. My experience has been
that the S meter in the Drake is of not mu
hello gang,
well the saga of my r4a continues. now there are several things i
have found but do to lack of experience am unable to completely trace
back.
first is the voltage at tp2 is almost 6v. i have swaped out the tubes
with others that my tester says are ok. and no change. i feel thi
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] r4a alignment
well the book said the adjustment would be broad but i am sure i am doing
something wrong.
i was actually expecting a peak on the meter
Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
kc5...@gmail.com
www.kc5gtt.com
On
well the book said the adjustment would be broad but i am sure i am
doing something wrong.
i was actually expecting a peak on the meter
Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT
kc5...@gmail.com
www.kc5gtt.com
On Mar 4, 2009, at 5:59 PM, Chuck Grandgent wrote:
we'll see what the experts say, but I seem to rec
hello gang,
well i finally got all my test gear in order. i can now do a proper
alignment on my drakes and other projects. so here is the first thing i ran
into. on my r4a 13 tube i was doing good until i made it to step B the 50kc
if alignment. it says to adjust t7 and t10 for max s meter but i s
Hard to make an Subjective analysis (is that an oxymoron?) but my R4a
will nearly drive you back at loud volumes using the stock speaker.
Have you tried a different speaker?
Also..check and perhaps burnish the shorting contact at the earphone
jack on the front panel. a little corrosion there
Hi Drake people
I have a R4A 11 tube receiver that I have referbed last year and it
works great.
I have put all new caps in, aligned and so forth.
I have never been around any other drakes except my TR-3 to compare it to.
It has low volume. It is ok but not as loud as I think it should be a
On my schematic, C176 is the audio feedback electrolytic in the audio
output section. Doubt if that would cause a 10M only issue.
Itis normal for the cal signal to be weaker in the higher freq bands.
The harmonics from the 100kHz osc get progressively weaker.
If you use another drake t4x, l
hi Curt
i did try peaking the different stages. when i tune to the calibrator
signal i am only getting about 2 s units. as i go down the bands it
move up in signal strength. i guess its just me. i haven't been
playing with drakes very long so i really do not know how they are
supposed to
Hi CArey:
If it only on 10M, it is unlikey to be an audio issue. More likely an
issue related to one of the bandswitched stages. Have you tried peaking
the inj and rf amp trimmers for 10?
10 is pretty quiet these days here but regulart QRN should show up just
like it does on 20 or 15 when
well my r4a is turning out nicely but i am not sure about 10m. i
have to turn the volume up to almost 2 o clock to here any noise. is
the r4a deaf on 10? or do i maybe have a audio problem? the serial is
2952. i noticed some circuit difference when comparing it to another
parts r4a i have.
Hi again gentlemen:
I'm feeling stupid tonite because I was looking at the cathode glowing
red and not the plate. After looking at all of the currents in and out
of the tube and checking all the dc voltages, I was convinced that it
was running like it should. It is a VERY hot tube!!
Still
Curt -
I still like the transformer! :-) 240 ohms is the correct DC
resistance of the primary, but a shorted turn or other _AC_ anomaly is
what I suspect.
Couple more things to try. First, measure the actual resistance of
R43. Then, measure the voltage drop across R43. Calculated curre
I am stumped by an issue with my old trusty R4A. The audio amp, 6EH5
tube is running with a red-hot plate.
All of the DC voltages look good and there is no input signal except the
real one when the gain is advanced. There is a very large (5V P-P) on
the output side. It is low freq (120 hz.
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
What serial number TR-4?
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
Jim Gerke wrote:
Jim Gerke <[EM
Jim Gerke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have a TR4 (late) and RV4.
The "VFO Selected" light on the TR4 is intermittent (and now may have
gone out completely) and I have been unable to find it
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
OK. I still think I'd put the 4.7k resistor in there if it was mine.
Obviously Drake thought better of leaving it out since they included i
Actually it's 6987G.
And 22k across primary of T10, and no R142.
And you mention "R4B Version 1, s/n 7000+ has R146 (22k), R142 (4.7k) in
series, and C159 (0.01) bypass", so that explains the 22k resistor.
The C159 failure has been happening over time, to the point where when I
first turned it on,
Jack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hey you got me beat Chuck, I have #6966. Its on the shelve right now
awaiting a gremlin exorcizing. I used it for quite a few years.
You might want to put th
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
Great! That's very interesting that your VERY late serial number of
6987, which would make it one of the very last R-4As made, (the R-4B
start
WaHoo !
That was it, C159 was way leaky, and my version does not have R142, so that
added some confusion.
S-meter's working great and receiver's hotter than I can recall in recent
memory !
As always, thanks Garey,
Chuck, K1OM
On Feb 16, 2008 11:13 AM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
I was just typing my last as you were sending yours...Great minds,
etc.:-)
Nothing like having the right schematic. C159 is a 0
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
Obviously you can't have 150VDC on one side of an 820 ohm, 1/2W resistor
and 5VDC on the other
Measure the voltage at each node alon
C159 was definitely bad Garey, replaced that and now I have S-meter action.
However I still have no plate voltage on V5, and for the life of me I can't
see how it's wired for it. It seems to have a 22k resistor across T10 on
the V5 plate side, and other than that and the connection to C159, I don'
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
C159 may be very leaky or shorted. 0.1 uF at 200V. You may have a
fault in T10. B+ is applied to V5 through the primary of T10 and one
en
The plot thickens.
I checked resistance and voltage at all the pins for V2, V3, V4, V5.
The two bads are:
1) V5 12BA6 pin 5 (plate), resistance is 150 ohms, s/b 10k. And votage is
3 volts, s/b 110v
I guess R41 and maybe R142 bear more checking, though if either of these
went high, I can't accoun
OK, got some time to spend on this today.
R40, R41, R42, and R89 SEEMED to checkout OK.
However, if I put a potentiometer across R41 and adjust it for a low value,
I can get the S-meter to respond. Then, the S-meter zero adjustment R42 can
bring the S-meter to any level on the meter.
But, it seems
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
OK. That's good!
From your description, the AVC circuitry is working...
I don't have a good photo, but I bet three of the four components
Thanks Garey,
well the meter seems OK, the DMM on lowest resistance range causes it to
deflect a tad. I had to repair the AVC switch at one point, I guess I
should check there, among other places.
Chuck, K1OM
On Feb 6, 2008 4:20 PM, Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Garey Barrell
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Chuck -
The S-Meter is a simple bridge circuit that compares the plate current
of V2 and V3 with the plate current of V4 and V5. There are only two
R4A, S-meter was working OK, just noticed it is not right now, don't know
for quite how long.
AVC is working, as evidenced by turning RF gain all the way down and then
back up, AVC slow takes very noticeably longer for the RF leve to return
once I turn up RF gain, compared to AVC fast.
Adjusting
Hi folks,
Short story - I'm going to sell the R4A & keep
the 2B.
Long story - I hooked both rigs up to a mixer so I
could rapidly switch from one to the other. They were both tied to the
same antenna and tuned to the same signal. While under headphones I could
flip from one to the other e
Hello Keith,
the R4 sounds fine to me, except of course with the
1.2KC filter on ssb! Keep them both!
Good Dx, Mike W4DL
- Original Message -
From:
Darwin, Keith
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:00
PM
Subject: [drakelist] R4A
me recordings of your
2B!
73, W1JA
John Pelham Web site http://www.radiophile.com
- Original Message -
From:
Darwin, Keith
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 10:00
PM
Subject: [drakelist] R4A audio recordings
(raspy or no?)
Hi folks
From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: [drakelist] R4A Raspy CW tone.
>
> The raspy sound I hear is rather faint. It shows as you tune a signal
> but the effect all but disappears when you stop tuning. It is st
Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Keith -
When all else fails... :-)
One S-unit is typical.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Atlanta
Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service CDs
Darwin, Keith wrote:
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