Re: [Drakelist] L-4B load capacitor
Roger, Yes indeed. Merely buy some felt washers, Antique Radio Supply carries them, sometimes hardware stores, or cut your own. Then remove the load capacitor knob, put several of them on the shaft, and then replace the knob. Keep adding more and more until the desired level of friction is obtained. You can also make washers out of felt you can buy at fabric stores, or you can buy felt pads for lamps at the hardware stores. Please keep us posted on your progress. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Roger Smith kc6...@earthlink.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, Oct 24, 2013 4:39 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B load capacitor I acquired the L-4B from ebay. It is in overall good condition but the load variable capacitor does not have enough shaft friction to hold the plates in position. There appears to be an adjustment screw on the back of the capacitor but there is no easy way to access the screw. Does anyone know a way to adjust the shaft friction of this capacitor without pulling the load capacitor and the fan? Thanks for the help ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4 PROBLEM
I would check the band crystal for 40 m, and band specific tuned circuits. -Original Message- From: Phil Rivera km...@yahoo.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 17, 2013 9:55 pm Subject: [Drakelist] R-4 PROBLEM Hello to all, I am having a problem with a R-4 I just got in the shack, all works good, receive is great, but on 40 meters only it seems. when I first turn radio on, warms up 40 meters is great good signals maybe about 15-20 mins or so, the receive just fades away. I thought might be band switch move that around, move all controls does not come back. I switch to 20 meters all is good. I have not checked any tubes, which is a next step and have not really dug into it. I wanted to see if someone had this problem and can point me in the right direction before I go further. If I shut the radio down and next day turn it back on 40 is good again. I had the cover off for a few days while I was cleaning and replacing the blue filters and it seems 40 held up. maybe a cap problem or heating? Thanks to all Phil KM4OP ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Wanted: L-7
Jim, I wish Dayton was closer to your QTH. Then I would tempt you with some pics and test report on an L-7 and MN-2700, hi hi. I have the packing down and have never had an L4B or L7 damaged in shipment. But yes, shipping costs have gone up. It is only a matter of time and you'll find exactly what you need within driving distance. Have a great weekend. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Sep 13, 2013 10:38 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Wanted: L-7 Hi All: I'm looking to buy a nice, clean L-7 in fully operational condition. I want to avoid the cost and risks associated with shipping, and so I'l like to find one within reasonable driving distance of NJ. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has one of these amps for sale. Thanx 73, Jim W2BVM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MN-2700/B-1000 use
Damien, As a start, I would go to various books and online articles regarding the impedance of your antenna (resistive AND reactive components) considering its length, height above ground, AND the bands that you plan to operate. That will suggest whether 450 ohm or 300 ohm twin lead is more appropriate. Off hand, I would not expect a large amount of degradation due to the twin feed passing through pine trees. I have some antennas fed with 300 ohm window line, although I have used 450 ohm previously, and I have an 8 inch standoff where it passes close to the trunk of a tree BUT this is to prevent rubbing of the feedline against the tree. In addition, I have committed several sins with regard to routing of the twinlead. It goes through two 90 deg bends as it enters the house through some weatherproof quick disconnects (for when storms approach), another 90 deg bend when it first enters the house, follows water pipes and heating ducts spaced about 6-8 inches from the twinlead, three more sharp 90 deg bends as it goes from the basement, up through the wall, and into my shack, with yet another 90 deg bend as it enters another quick disconnect. This last couple of bends put the twinlead an inch or two away from a heating duct for about four inches. While I have two such feedlines they are spaced about a foot apart as they run through the house. Both feedlines have approximately one twist per each three feet of length. Inside, I use electric fence insulators to space the twinlead away from the floor joists. In spite of all these violations of preferred practices, the antennas work well to my satisfaction. It is not uncommon to hear unsolicited reports of You're the loudest signal on the band or You are consistently putting in a good signal to my QTH. The installation is indeed a compromise but it is the best I have been able to do. Through experimentation, I see no interaction by having the feedlines about a foot apart for a length of approximately 50 feet inside the house. The two antennas are concentric loops, one for 40 meters at a height of about 12 ft and the other is a loop for 80 meters at a height of about 20 ft. Shorting the unused antenna, grounding it, etc. does not seem to affect the SWR on the active antenna in use; whether it affects the radiation pattern is another issue but it is of little concern since I'm pleased with the performance of the antennas and feedlines. As a side note, there are two reasons why I use 300 ohm transmitting style window line. (1) Analysis of my antennas indicated that the 300 ohm was a better match than 450 ohm although I could see no change in performance between the two. (2) The 300 ohm window line has a lower visual cross section and it pleases the xyl; happy wife, happy life. There is likely to be some pickup between the two feedlines but it seems to be minimal. Experimentation with antennas can be as much fun as it is educational. A compromise antenna in the air works a lot better than the perfect antenna design on paper. Enjoy the experimentation, and enjoy the hobby. Please share your experiences with others. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Sep 11, 2013 10:46 am Subject: [Drakelist] MN-2700/B-1000 use I have just been fortunate enough to obtain an MN-2700 with Balun. Sorry if this is slightly off topic, and I hope it is not a silly question, but if I feed an antenna 150 foot away with 450 ohm twin feed, will it matter if it passes through two mature pine trees whilst on its way? Also, if I want to feed two antennas can I run two 450 ohm twin feeds beside each other or will they interact? I have looked at endless antenna books but cannot find the answers. Regards Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MN-2700/B-1000 use
Stan is correct. Site specific factors can dramatically affect antenna performance. Using computer simulations/models is a start, but one also needs to consider that free space approximations will be altered due to height above ground, proximity of buildings, downspouts, trees, local terrain, and a host of other factors. Some antennas are more susceptible to these influences than others. Hence, I consider the theoretical approximations along with the experiences of others, hopefully based upon instances where good, bad, or average band conditions contributed to the observations. Let's all enjoy the hobby! 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Stan Nafziger kf4...@gmail.com To: K9sqg k9...@aol.com Cc: damienmannix damienman...@hotmail.com; Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Sep 11, 2013 11:46 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] MN-2700/B-1000 use Hello Damien, I also have an MN-2700 with the B1000 balun so I can share my experience. I have two ladder line (450) fed inverted-v's with the centers at 30 ft and oriented 90 degrees to each other. One is slightly lower than the other to avoid physical contact of the wire and the centers are spaced about 4 feet apart. One is cut for 60M and the other for 75M. The two feed lines drop vertically for about 20' parallel to each other spaced about 4' apart. I have a patch panel in the shack to select the antenna needed. Because the vertical feed line will radiate to some degree, there will be some RF induced in the adjacent feed line so it should remain unterminated when not in use. The MN-2700 will tune each antenna flat from 3.5 - 29 Mhz. I generally run about 500 watts on 75m and have no issues. I have no idea how this antenna system would look on paper and don't really care...it works! Like Evan said, experiment and have fun. Paper and antennas and real antennas rarely perform the same.too many variables to consider. Hope that helps. 73, Stan, KF4BY On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 11:12 AM, K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote: Damien, As a start, I would go to various books and online articles regarding the impedance of your antenna (resistive AND reactive components) considering its length, height above ground, AND the bands that you plan to operate. That will suggest whether 450 ohm or 300 ohm twin lead is more appropriate. Off hand, I would not expect a large amount of degradation due to the twin feed passing through pine trees. I have some antennas fed with 300 ohm window line, although I have used 450 ohm previously, and I have an 8 inch standoff where it passes close to the trunk of a tree BUT this is to prevent rubbing of the feedline against the tree. In addition, I have committed several sins with regard to routing of the twinlead. It goes through two 90 deg bends as it enters the house through some weatherproof quick disconnects (for when storms approach), another 90 deg bend when it first enters the house, follows water pipes and heating ducts spaced about 6-8 inches from the twinlead, three more sharp 90 deg bends as it goes from the basement, up through the wall, and into my shack, with yet another 90 deg bend as it enters another quick disconnect. This last couple of bends put the twinlead an inch or two away from a heating duct for about four inches. While I have two such feedlines they are spaced about a foot apart as they run through the house. Both feedlines have approximately one twist per each three feet of length. Inside, I use electric fence insulators to space the twinlead away from the floor joists. In spite of all these violations of preferred practices, the antennas work well to my satisfaction. It is not uncommon to hear unsolicited reports of You're the loudest signal on the band or You are consistently putting in a good signal to my QTH. The installation is indeed a compromise but it is the best I have been able to do. Through experimentation, I see no interaction by having the feedlines about a foot apart for a length of approximately 50 feet inside the house. The two antennas are concentric loops, one for 40 meters at a height of about 12 ft and the other is a loop for 80 meters at a height of about 20 ft. Shorting the unused antenna, grounding it, etc. does not seem to affect the SWR on the active antenna in use; whether it affects the radiation pattern is another issue but it is of little concern since I'm pleased with the performance of the antennas and feedlines. As a side note, there are two reasons why I use 300 ohm transmitting style window line. (1) Analysis of my antennas indicated that the 300 ohm was a better match than 450 ohm although I could see no change in performance between the two. (2) The 300 ohm window line has a lower visual cross section and it pleases the xyl; happy wife, happy life. There is likely to be some pickup between the two feedlines but it seems to be minimal
Re: [Drakelist] L4-B ALC/Standby Switch
John, Just contact k9...@arrl.net about a replacement. He can also replace it for you although it is not a particularly difficult task. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: John Meyer jome...@msn.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Sep 11, 2013 3:18 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L4-B ALC/Standby Switch Anyone out there have a solution to replacing this control? John Meyer K8IHY ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Invitation to Drake Forum at Hamvention 2013
___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Forum invitation
You are cordially invited to attend... The Drake Forum Saturday, May 18, 2013. 10:30-11:30 AM. Room 2. Excellent presentations. Ask the Experts QA. Free collectable Drake logo pens for first 100 attendees. Free raffle tickets. Many prizes including new, dual band, HT. More details under Forums at DARA's Hamvention website. View some previous forums at VIMEO website. 73, Drake Forum Committee ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 4 pin plug....
Ski, At one time I believe I saw a picture one of those on the WB4HFN website devoted to Drake gear. I believe some third party vendor was making them but can't remember who. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Fred or Ski wb8...@frontier.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Apr 28, 2013 10:19 pm Subject: [Drakelist] 4 pin plug Hello the List, I have been looking for the 4 pin accessory connector(plug) that is used on the 2B and the 4 line receivers. I have been thinking of building accessories for them and want to plug them in. Does anyone have any idea where they can be obtained? Looking thru Mouser or Digikey was fruitless as there was so many that I couldn't be sure of the compatibility. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Ski-WB8YXI ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Aluminum disk insert for TR-7 mode switch and band switch knobs
KC9YS per the information listed on the WB4HFN website... -Original Message- From: Paul pa...@hal-pc.org To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Apr 22, 2013 9:05 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Aluminum disk insert for TR-7 mode switch and band switch knobs Any one know where I can buy a couple of aluminum disk inserts for the TR-7 mode switch and band switch knobs? Disk looks to be about 5/16 diameter. Collins inserts are too big by 1/16. 73, Paul, W5NTQ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MS-4 Speaker
Fellow enthusiasts, I've been very please with the MS-4 speakers that I own, and putting acoustical foam inside the cabinet makes them sound even better. If one were to select an alternate speaker for mounting inside the MS-4 cabinet, it won't necessarily have better fidelity and less distortion. Why? Some of the speakers I've tried have had maximum power rating of 20-50 watts. When used with a TR-7, I found that I had to run the audio gain quite high, in some instances at the 3 o'clock position, since the speakers were not necessarily efficient. As one approaches the maximum output of an audio amp, sometimes the distortion level becomes annoying. Your results might vary. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com To: Bob Loving bob.lov...@sbcglobal.net Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Apr 16, 2013 1:35 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] MS-4 Speaker Parts Express has or had another better-than-original speaker thatfits the MS-4 cabinet. Unfortunately I can't find details of the one I bought a few years ago after it was recommended on one of theselists. The price was lower than this one, maybe half. On 4/16/2013 1049, Bob Loving wrote: Brian: Surplus Sales of Nevraska has a Collins replacement speaker that fits the MS-4 cabinet. I have replaced one of my MS-4 speakers with the unit. To me, it sounds more mellow than the original speaker used by Drake. It has a massive magnet. The speaker is listed at the bottom of the window in this link: http://www.surplussales.com/Microphones-Audio/MicroAudio-8.html 73, Bob K9JU ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] for L4B, L7, Heil FS-2 footswitch
Have for sale a new Heil FS-2 footswitch. This is the one that keys the linear before the rig thus preventing a power foldback spike in the rig. Was used for less than a minute, hence, as new condition. Price is $25 including shipping and insurance, continental US only. Enjoy those Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4 Plate Meter
Stew, Interesting situation there. Not sure I have ever come across a situation like that. Too, you might want to check the grid current meter circuit, it is far more critical than the plate current. And to make things complete, checking the HV calibration is a good idea too. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: GALE STEWARD k...@yahoo.com To: Drake Reflector drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2013 1:34 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L4 Plate Meter I have suspected for a number of years that the plate meter in my L4 was reading a bit low. Today I had the amp opened up to make a minor repair and I decided to check. Using a variable power supply, a series resistor, and a DMM in series, I've determined that the L4 meter does indeed read a bit low. As an example, when I adjust the power to give me 400ma on the DMM, the drake plate meter reads ~360ma. The schematic shows the meter to be a 1.0 amp movement and does not appear to have any external shunt resistors. BTW, the meter was disconnected form the amplifier circuitry when I took the current readings. There obviously does not seem to be any way to tweak this but I thought I would ask. This slightly lower reading is not a problem for me but I thought I'd check with the Drake brain trust before buttoning the the amp. TNX 73, Stew K3ND ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Forum 2013 Hamvention
Team, Word from the Hamvention Forum Committee: Scheduled DRAKE forum as follows: Saturday Time: 1030 to 1130 Room: #2 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: W2IHY 8 band audio equalizer and Drake interface cable
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have for sale a W2IHY 8 band audio equalizer with noise gate that has an interface cable for connecting with the Drake TR-7, possibly other rigs as well. Includes the wall wart power supply. I bought this new, it has seen little use, and works fine. $200 shipped and insured to your door, continental US only. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS DX Engineering speech processor, Drake microphones
For Sale: DX Engineering speech processor, LC-2-T4X for Drake, withinstructions. $100. Drake 1525EM encoder microphone, new with box, $50. Drake 7073, dynamic mobile mic, $25. Shipping and insurance are extra. Thanks for reading the ad. 73, Evan, k9...@arrl.net ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: Drake, Johnson, Nye, BW, Kenwood
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have the following for sale in the Continental US only: DX Engineering speech processor, LC-2-T4X for Drake, withinstructions. $100. Drake 1525EM encoder microphone, new with box, $50. Drake 7073, dynamic mobile mic, $25. Drake line filter, LF2, model #1620, 8 A 120 vac, $25. Nye Viking squeeze key paddle, New with box andinstructions, chrome cover, mounted on Nye black base with space for manual key,$50. Johnson Viking directional coupler, #250-24, one direction,New in box, $25. Have three, can use two to read forward and reverse. BW AT-200, 2 meter antenna switch with antenna tunerfor using car antenna on 2 meters, New with box, $30. Kenwood PC-1A phone patch, New in box, with instructions,$50; nice for nostalgia or for using to house that accessory project. Shipping and insurance are extra. Thanks for reading the ad. 73, Evan, k9...@arrl.net ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake L7E Low Power Out
Not sure whether the amp is in CW or SSB position. If CW, that plate voltage looks a little too high; if it is SSB, it is 600 volts too low. Then again, most people don't check the accuracy of the internal voltmeter so they don't know the actual voltage accurately. Might be worth a peek through the vent holes on the bottom or the fan on the rear to see if both tubes have their filaments lit. Too, one of the tubes, or both, could also be bad/soft. The plate blocking capacitor should be measured. Visual inspection of RF chokes for grounding the grids on both tubes should be inspected for heating or open circuit. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Jan 4, 2013 12:34 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake L7E Low Power Out Can he use a different wattmeter/and dummyload link? At that kind of DC loading, something has to be getting REAL hot ifit aint going into the dummy load. Is the plate voltage staying up with key down? Also, you might try testing with each tube individually to see if atube got shorted in transit. FWIW Curt KU8L On 1/4/2013 12:01 PM, Richard Emrich wrote: I sold my L7 to another ham and he has sent me thefollowing. I see very low RF output. Here are some numbers: plate volts 1900 idle plate current 180ma 30 watts input RF 60 watts output to 50 ohmresistive load (dummy load) plate current 440ma grid current 120ma I see little or no dip inplate current with plate control - all bands same effect. I checked the tube hardware,cleaned the output relay etc., there is no arcing, popping or gassy lookon the tubes. The tube plates do show coloron key down...I did let them warm up for several hours. I have gotten more output byincreasing the drive but not over 160 watts out...don'twant to hurt anything by pushing it. Any help would be appreciated Have a good new year Thanks NN6U ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Enthusiasts and Holidays
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I would like to take this opportunity to say Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. I hope that you will be blessed with good health, happiness, and that your Drake dreams will be fulfilled. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 60 Meter Operation
Is the issue of frequency accuracy, plus stability, not a consideration when attempting 60 meter operation with a 4-line? Changing PTO frequency would still result in one having to deal with accuracy and stability issues which, for channelized operation, are more critical. Just some random thoughts... 73, Evan -Original Message- From: Gary Winblad garywinb...@comcast.net To: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Nov 27, 2012 5:58 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] 60 Meter Operation Like another Gary pointed out, the IF is in the way. It will work to use a 16.1MHz crystal. You will get images and spurs though. If you are lucky (I haven't run the numbers) they are far enough from the 60m channels to let you RECEIVE them... BUT do not try to TRANSMIT, you will put out spurs that are out of the ham bands. IF, PTO, mixing products, who knows what... ;-) 73, Gary WB6OGD - Original Message - From: Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com To: Edward Gable ega...@rochester.rr.com Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 17:12:55 - (UTC) Subject: Re: [Drakelist] 60 Meter Operation I see that a 16.1 MHz crystal would cover 5.0 to 5.5 MHz if it can work at all. With the 60 meter channels ranging from 5.3305 to 5.4035 MHz, I wonder if at least receiving might be possible? 73 de W3NU On 11/25/2012 1128, Edward Gable wrote: Hello Bob: If you look at any of the 4 line manuals you will not see an external Xtal listed for the 5 to 6 Mhz region. Me thinks that is because of the VFO operating at 5 Mhz and thus there is no mix that will take you to the 60 meter band. So other than a fairly major circuitry change I don't think it's feasible. Ed Gable k2mp - Original Message - 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px blackFrom:Robert Look To:drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 7:36 AM Subject: [Drakelist] 60 Meter Operation Has anyone operated their 4-Line radio on 60 meters USB or CW? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] ALC pot needed for L4, not L4B
Fellow Drake enthusiasts, Trying to get an amp going for a local veteran. Last thing I need to do is replace the ALC pot on the back panel. It is a 100K, linear taper, plastic 1/4 inch shaft, and mounting is via two tabs that are bent over in some slots. If you have such a part for sale, preferably new, please let me know full, shipped price. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Today
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I'd like to take this opportunity to wish everybody a Happy Thanksgiving! Though most of us are facing challenges of one form or another, we also have reasons to be thankful for what we have, rather than focusing on what we don't have. One thing I am thankful for is the willingness of Drake enthusiasts to share experiences, offer help and encouragement, and do whatever is needed to keep the Drake part of our ham radio hobby working to the highest levels of performance. Have a safe, enjoyable holiday. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] pictorial of the bottom of an R4C
Yep, Garey's CDs are worth their weight in gold! -Original Message- From: Chris Kepus cke...@comcast.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Cc: nm5m n...@aol.com Sent: Sat, Nov 17, 2012 12:20 pm Subject: [Drakelist] pictorial of the bottom of an R4C “I am curious if anyone on the list knows of a pictorial of the bottom of an R4C that may point out the location of the various electrolytic capacitors? “ Easy …. You need the C-Line CD. See the web site for details. No financial interest. Just a satisfied customer (among 1000’s!). Good luck with your R4C Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Chris W7JPG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B S-meter drift
With time or temperature related problems, I've found that freeze spray or even computer dusting spray can be useful for locating defective resistors and capacitors. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: kc9cdt kc9...@aol.com To: captcurt captc...@flash.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Oct 30, 2012 10:06 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B S-meter drift I always trouble shoot by swapping tubes...not using a tube tester. 73, Lee -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Oct 30, 2012 9:56 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B S-meter drift Yep Ski.. Both my A and B do this...interested in a fix shortcut...have notreally spent any diagnostic time on it to date. Curt KU8L On 10/29/2012 10:54 PM, Fred or Ski wrote: I have an R4B that in the last 5 or so years has had what I think is excessive drift in the S-meter zero. I saw a posting from Garey that mentioned checking and/or replacing V4 or V5. I checked both and they had good emission and no shorts. When I first turn on the radio, the meter reads around S-6 and works its way down to eventually near S-1 with no antenna. It takes at least half an hour to get to the S-1 mark. Also if I set the 'meter zero' earlier that the half hour, It will be off if the radio is left on longer. I suspect the the meter should 'settle down' faster than that. Has anyone else noticed this problem and what did you do to correct it. I didn't replace the tubes, and maybe that is my next step. I appreciate any suggestions you might have. 73, Ski-WB8YXI ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] All is well
Damien, Glad things are working there and educating us on what the issue was. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Damien Mannix damienman...@hotmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, Oct 4, 2012 12:16 pm Subject: [Drakelist] All is well Hi all, How time flies. Been tied up with family matters for the last few weeks so not had chance to install the new crystal for 15 metres until today. Delighted to say that the TR4 is now working just fine on all bands, into a dummy load anyway. I was wrong in thinking the problem was anything more than a faulty crystal and a dirty socket. Thanks again to all for the help and friendship. Now all I need is a decent antenna! Damien G3XER ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] video of Drake Forum at Hamvention
For those that are interested, you can find videos of some of the Drake Forums at Hamvention by going to VIMEO.com and use the search term of Drake Forum. Comments, suggestions, constructive criticism, etc. are welcomed and would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy those Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 7 line filters for sale
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Have some new, unused, filters for sale for the TR-7, TR-7A, R-7, or R-7A: 500 hz cw filter. 1.8 kc narrow SSB filter. 2.3 kc stock/standard filter. 8 kc AM filter. 2.3 kc original filter, new, installed on a new TR-7 filter board. The individual filters are $50 each plus shipping. The filter on the filter board is $75. Thanks for reading the ad. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] UPDATE: Re: Drake 7 line filters for sale
Fellow enthusiasts, Here is an update on my recent posting about filters. The 8 kc is gone. The 1.8 kc is gone. Remaining: 500 hz CW filter. 2.3 kc stock filter. 2.3 kc stock filter mounted to new board. Thanks for the great response. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: K9sqg k9...@aol.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jul 29, 2012 10:55 am Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 7 line filters for sale Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Have some new, unused, filters for sale for the TR-7, TR-7A, R-7, or R-7A: 500 hz cw filter. 1.8 kc narrow SSB filter. 2.3 kc stock/standard filter. 8 kc AM filter. 2.3 kc original filter, new, installed on a new TR-7 filter board. The individual filters are $50 each plus shipping. The filter on the filter board is $75. Thanks for reading the ad. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Removing the Load Variable Capacitor on a L-7
Roger, It is hard to diagnose something like that without a visual inspection. If it were my amp, I would open it up and look everywhere to see what is what. My experience is that when you go in to fix one problem, you often find more problems. Particularly if somebody has messed with it. As to the load capacitor, inspect it to see if the rotor plates are centered within the stator plates. Inspect them with a bright flashlight to look for pitting. Inspect the ceramic insulation for cracks, loose mounting bolts for the stators, and an improperly adjusted tension/spacing nut on the rear. Too, see if any screws are missing from any of the places where subassemblies are held together, etc. Please keep the group posted we all can learn from it. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Roger White rwhitete...@verizon.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jul 29, 2012 9:54 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Removing the Load Variable Capacitor on a L-7 I have had a Drake L-7 sitting on the shelf unused for a few years now and recently decided to sell it. It has had the power supply updated and the ON/OFF switch disassembled and cleaned. It had functioned OK the last time I had used it (2 years ago) with the only problem being an erratic reading Plate Amp meter (an quick tap on the meter made it come from “zero” to the correct reading). The problem I am having now (and one that has never occurred before) is the Load Variable Capacitor is appearing to short some of its plates over a narrow arc of operation (say 10-20 degrees of arc). I can hear the plates touching and, of course, the resultant negative effect of the power out going to zero, etc. I have only had the amp open once to clean the power switch, I could tell it may have been worked, on as far as the screws on the bottom cover(s) appear to have been removed at few times. One thing I have noticed as I looked at the cap with the cover removed is that I can hear the plates “unshort” if I “torque” the chassis a little bit or loosen the screw that holds the front half of the Load Cap to the floor. Has anyone had this sort of problem with one of the variable caps? Can the Load var. cap be removed easily? Thanks for any help in advance. Roger White W5RDW Murphy, Texas ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fw: [DrakeRadio] led bulb replacement
Some dealers specialize in LEDs for the Drake equipment __,_._,__ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] LED source for Drake gear
Radiolabworks is the best source of LEDs for Drake gear in my opinion but I don't have experience with all of the dealers... ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4-C 15 METERS DEAD
Dan, If it were me, not being an expert, I would start by sparingly applying DeOxit to switch contacts, and look into the 15 meter crystal that might have aged beyond being usable. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: K3XR k...@comcast.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Jul 11, 2012 9:21 am Subject: [Drakelist] R4-C 15 METERS DEAD Would appreciate any help with an R4-C that works just great with the exception of the 15 meter band. can hear the calibrator weak that's about it, no signal from nearby transmitter or any other signals, preselector does not seem to make much difference. Many Thanks, DAN, K3XR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B knob needed
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Looking for a hen's tooth, so to speak. Specifically, I need an ALC knob for an L4B. The knob is very similar to the driver/preselector knob on a C line BUT a white line is also present. While I have a driver/preselector knob for a C line which I might be able to add a white line to, I'd prefer to have an original knob if at all possible. If you have one, please let me know the condition, cost, and mailing expenses. Enjoy those Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 10 meters for the Drake L7
Lou, Well, it depends. There are at least three ways the L7 bandswich was locked out from 10 meters; I assume you found the way to undo yours. For the L7s I've serviced, I found two different results with no consistent explanation for the differences. In one case, you do the mod by adding the two 68 pf caps, etc. and then retune the input coil per the instructions. In the other case, adding the 68 pf caps is not necessary, and the input coil doesn't always need to be adjusted. Both procedures seem to work, depending... 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Gudguyham gudguy...@aol.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jul 1, 2012 12:01 am Subject: [Drakelist] 10 meters for the Drake L7 Hello everyone, new to the list. I'd like to know if anyone has or knows where to get an authorized bulletin from Drake outlining the procedure for enabling 10 meters on the L7 amplifier. I've seen a blurb about it on the Internet but nothing that seems to be Drake authorized. Although I have done the modification as shown in the blurb I am not liking the input swr results I am getting on 15 and 10 meters now. On 160-20m my amp has a dead flat input swr, but not on 15 and 10. I have questions. If no bulletins had been issued and anyone has done this mod with greater success than I, please let me know. Thanks, 73 Lou W1QJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake R4C filters for sale
Fellow Drake enthusiasts, Have a couple of Drake filters for sale that can be plugged into the sockets on the rear panel of the receiver. 1. FL-4000 which is a 4 kc filter used for AM, shortwave listening, or full fidelity SSB. $75 plus shipping. 2. CF-2K/16 which is a 16 pole, narrow SSB filter made by Sherwood Engineering. $100 plus shipping. Can only ship these to continental US only. Payment must be via USPS money order or PayPal. Thanks for reading the posting. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Capacitor value
Steve, Have you tried the online manuals at WB4HFN? 73, Evan -Original Message- From: Steve sswh...@mchsi.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jun 3, 2012 9:46 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Capacitor value I am working on bringing back to life a 2B and am find that someone removed a capacitor in the crystal oscillator section. It is C76 and I am unable to read it's value from the schematic that I have. Can anyone take a look at a there good schematic and let me know its value please.. thanks Steve NU0P ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Forum at Hamvention
Fellow Enthusiasts, The Drake Forum will be held Saturday, 10:30-11:30, in Room 2. Speakers will include Ron WB4HFN, Rob NC0B, and there will be a free door prize drawing including some Drake memorabilia. Safe travel and enjoy Hamvention. A new tradition is being considered for this year, no rain for the weekend. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Forum at Hamvention
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, The Drake Forum at Hamvention will be Saturday, Room 2, from 10:30 to 11:30 AM. There will be a full hour of presentations including some interesting information by Ron WB4HFN, Rob Sherwood, Sindre Torp, free prize drawing including Drake memorabilia, and more. Come early so you can get a seat. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Want small 4-line bar knob
Marty, There are several styles of bar knobs fro the 4 line. Smaller ones used on the transmitter and receiver and a larger one on the antenna tuners, etc. Not sure which knob and size you are looking for; not knowing that, it makes it hard to recommend a source. However, you might try the WB4HFN website and look up the various parts sources listed there. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: w7apm w7...@mtaonline.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, May 9, 2012 12:48 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Want small 4-line bar knob Looking for an exact copy of the 4-line bar knob except a smaller version. Anybody know of a source? Thanls! Marty/KL7AM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Astatic 10D vs 10DA microphone for use with TR-7 and T4XC
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have used an Astatic 10DA microphone with both my TR-7 and T4XC. It works fine direct (i.e. without the matching transformer) with my TR-7 while the matching transformer steps up the impedance making it suitable for the T4XC. The 10DA is described in the owner's manual as being designed for SSB use. However, I've been told this is not the mic to use but instead a 10D is the preferred microphone. Unfortunately, I can find no information on the Internet about the 10D. Can anybody point me in the right direction? I'd like to compare the 10D specs with those of the 10DA. Hope to see you at the Drake Forum at this year's Hamvention. 10:30-11:30, Saturday, Room 2. Interesting presentations and free door prizes including Drake memorabilia. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: step-start and Drake antenna protector
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have for sale the following, new, never used items: Harbach Electronics SS-100 step start for a linear amplifier, includes instructions for installation in an L4B (would guess it would work in an L7 also). $15 shipped, continental US only. Drake Surge Shunt, Transient Arrester, Model 1549. It goes in series with the antenna lead to your rig, and has a large bolt for connecting to a ground rod, etc., $25 shipped, continental US only. Keep enjoying those Drake radios! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake antenna protector available but step-start has been sold
Gentleman, The step-start has been sold but the antenna surge suppressor is still available. Thanks for all the inquiries, wish I had more. 73, Evan -Original Message- From: K9sqg k9...@aol.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Mar 23, 2012 10:47 pm Subject: [Drakelist] FS: step-start and Drake antenna protector Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have for sale the following, new, never used items: Harbach Electronics SS-100 step start for a linear amplifier, includes instructions for installation in an L4B (would guess it would work in an L7 also). $15 shipped, continental US only. Drake Surge Shunt, Transient Arrester, Model 1549. It goes in series with the antenna lead to your rig, and has a large bolt for connecting to a ground rod, etc., $25 shipped, continental US only. Keep enjoying those Drake radios! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B cabinet needed
My primary amp, a Drake L4B, is in need of a better cabinet. The top and bottom covers have waves, bends, etc. in the lower left corner region that I have not been able to straighten out. If you have a top and/or bottom, in good to excellent condition (no dents, waves, gouges, etc.) for sale, I'm interested. Please contact me off-list with details. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG k9...@arrl.net ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b
Typically this is due to low line voltage or a HV meter circuit that needs to be recalibrated. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: hs0zju hs0...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 10:52 am Subject: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should have 2600volts. 73 marc hs0zju sent from galaxy tab 10.1 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Stew, The situation you experienced is disturbing. The failures you experienced are strange from several perspectives. Why? Well, first, assuming that the power supply is wired correctly, it is unusual to have both bleeders open. When one experiences a failure mode of open, the series circuit is open and the other resistor has no potential across it, thus no power is consumed and it can't over heat, over current, etc. Second, it is unusual to have new bleeders fail that soon after installation. When replacing the resistors, inspect the mounts for the resistors. The older style uses long bolts with mica insulators at each end while the newer style uses aluminum triangles. If there is any arcing to ground, that can contribute to a failed resistor/circuit. Same for an old, brittle wire that might be arcing to ground. Contrary to popular belief, the 0.82 ohm protection resistor will NOT protect the supply from itself for the most part, just excessive current in the RF deck and/or a short in the connecting cable. Though unlikely, ensure that the line voltage for the amp is not excessive which can stress all components, especially the tube filaments. Whenever I rebuild supplies, I always use one or two fans on top of the supply for cooling purposes. I use hand selected model numbers for 220 v that will start and run reliably on 110 vac, or two 110 vac fans in series, or two 12 vdc fans in series; ultra quiet and reduction of heat is dramatic. Note too that when one of those bleeders opens, it will sometimes arc for an extended period of time before completely opening. The light and smell are unforgettable. Please check the 5K 7 watt resistor on the underside of the supply to see if it too has failed. Please keep us posted. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: GALE STEWARD k...@yahoo.com To: Dino Papas k...@cox.net; Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 10:29 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both with new Ohmite resistors. Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to find that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad caps, etc.). I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal. I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place. GL with the project. 73, Stew K3ND From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2012 2:22 PM Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week and figured I could minimize the time to do his by working out the bugs doing mine. As my L-4B is my main amp, and based on Evan's note to me a few years ago, I went ahead and changed out the 5K 7W resistor with the 13W version, replaced the 0.82 ohm HV line resistor and the 50K 50W bleeders as a precautionary measure. In the other amp I guess I was just lazy and simply installed only the Harbach board. Now sitting here thinking about it should I go back and just get it over with and replace the resistors in the L7PS? Has anyone ever had a bleeder go bad? Or the others for that matter. Sure, age will wear anything down. Also, the Harbach board doesn't include the diode balancing resistors that Mike's board does...as the original Drake diode strings used 'em what exactly is the difference? Do modern (read that better) diodes still need that protection? I'm just curious. I was pretty impressed that my 32 year old L-4BPS kept going like the Energizer Bunny all these years and I didn't notice any deterioration at all on the bodies of the orange electrolyticsbut, better safe than sorry and I'm looking forward to many more years of reliable operation with both amps. Thoughts? Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http
Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltage
Rick, Definitive statements can't be made unless the plate voltage meter is known to be in calibration and/or an external meter used to verify its accuracy. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: richard radke rar...@excite.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:14 pm Subject: [Drakelist] low plate voltage Marc, I agree with Lee. Low input voltage. Mine shows 2700 volts running from a 240vac line after rebuild. What do you see in the cw/tune position, lower by the same percentage? Rick W9WS On Feb 20, 2012, at 11:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote: Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to drakelist@zerobeat.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net You can reach the person managing the list at drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: low plate voltgage l4b (kc9...@aol.com) 2. Re: low plate voltgage l4b (Dino Papas) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:16:17 -0500 (EST) From: kc9...@aol.com To: hs0...@gmail.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b Message-ID: 8cebe021be02ba4-1cb4-1a...@webmail-d062.sysops.aol.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Marc, What is your line voltage? 73, Lee -Original Message- From: hs0zju hs0...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 10:53 am Subject: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should have 2600volts.? 73 marc hs0zju sent from galaxy tab 10.1 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:16:57 -0500 From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b Message-ID: 5f4823bb-0c60-45c9-9673-9cce13f9c...@cox.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Marc - I just rebuilt the L-7PS with a Harbach board (and a L-4PS with the Heathkit Shop board)Both boards show 2700 volts on the amp meters after putting them into operation. Did you do a low-voltage test before installing? I applied a 20VAC voltage to the input and got ~50VDC at the outputs verifying the voltage doubler function. You may want to give that a trysounds like a part reversal during install. Dino KL0S On Feb202012, at 1050 AM, hs0zju wrote: I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should have 2600volts. 73 marc hs0zju -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/ 20120220/422fa7a5/attachment-0001.html -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist End of Drakelist Digest, Vol 44, Issue 38 * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds
As a side note, a properly wired L4, L4B, or L7 power supply chassis is ALWAYS at ground potential for safety reasons. The safety ground from the outlet goes directly to the chassis of the power supply, whether or not the RF deck is plugged into it or not. A number of years ago, there was a production flaw in the Dale resistors (pitting, gaps, etc. ) in the ceramic that led to flashover on the ends of the resistor. Nit: the L4 power supply used two 100K 50 watt resistors while L4B/L7 supplies typically used 50K 50 watt resistors. -Original Message- From: David Box david_...@comcast.net To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds Stew Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage breakdown of the bleeder resistor. While we normally think of resistors in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to ground. I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load). In that case removed the 2 50K bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor bodies from the chassis. These particular resistors had about a 2KV breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface. I don't remember what the actual voltage limit across the resistor was but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power is 630V) . The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing them more than needed. The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier. So if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be apparent until you hook up to the amp. My initial mounting arrangement had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs. I would test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis. The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V zeners in series with filament center tap. This has been working fine now for 8 years. 73 de K5MWR Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:26:18 -0800 (PST) From: GALE STEWARDk...@yahoo.com To: Dino Papask...@cox.net, Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds Message-ID: 1329751578.83763.yahoomail...@web110514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both with new Ohmite resistors. Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to find that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad caps, etc.). I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal. I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place. GL with the project. 73, Stew K3ND ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Dino et. al. Well, let me briefly relate what I have observed and encountered when rebuilding L4, L4B, and L7 power supplies. Your mileage might vary. My experience has been that the supplies I have worked on have had in excess of a 50% failure rate, and maybe another 25% had whitish or light gray regions, typically toward one end, where there has been excessive heating suggesting and impending failure. Having a stock of the resistors on hand, and having the supply apart, it was a quick job to replace the bleederrs for safety and better regulation. Many people have failed bleeders and are totally unaware of it. There is generally better quality control with diodes nowadays compared to decades ago. Still, for as cheap as resistors are, it is a small price to pay for an added measure of protection, can't hurt. There are two schools of thoughts on this topic so one goes with the one that is most appealing. Final note on that 5K 7wt resistor on the underside of the supply, I too replace it during a standard rebuild and use two 10K 10wt resistors in parallel. Unknown to many, when the original opens, it takes out the ALC pot which, for the L4B I haven't seen in 30 except the ones I have in stock. Enjoy those Drakes, the Drake Nets, and our hobby. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Dino Papas k...@cox.net To: Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Feb 18, 2012 2:24 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week and figured I could minimize the time to do his by working out the bugs doing mine. As my L-4B is my main amp, and based on Evan's note to me a few years ago, I went ahead and changed out the 5K 7W resistor with the 13W version, replaced the 0.82 ohm HV line resistor and the 50K 50W bleeders as a precautionary measure. In the other amp I guess I was just lazy and simply installed only the Harbach board. Now sitting here thinking about it should I go back and just get it over with and replace the resistors in the L7PS? Has anyone ever had a bleeder go bad? Or the others for that matter. Sure, age will wear anything down. Also, the Harbach board doesn't include the diode balancing resistors that Mike's board does...as the original Drake diode strings used 'em what exactly is the difference? Do modern (read that better) diodes still need that protection? I'm just curious. I was pretty impressed that my 32 year old L-4BPS kept going like the Energizer Bunny all these years and I didn't notice any deterioration at all on the bodies of the orange electrolyticsbut, better safe than sorry and I'm looking forward to many more years of reliable operation with both amps. Thoughts? Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake diode boards FS for L4, L4B, and L7 linears
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have some brand new, original, Drake diode boards that are NOT populated with diodes nor resistors. I can send a pair of these to lower 48 states only for $8 shipped first class. Checks or money orders should be made out to ARRL Foundation and in the memo field put Challenge Met Scholarship. My QTH is good on QRZ, QTH, etc. Thanks for reading the email and enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] inquiry about AUX-7 modules
Would the ham that contacted me about modules for the AUX-7 board contact me directly? Seems AOL (Almost On Line) deleted some emails, hi hi. Thanks, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] New Drake Touchtone mic FS
Fellow Drake enthusiasts, Still have that new in the box, unused, with QC tag on it, Touchtone microphone for sale. Can only ship to lower 48 states. Price is $30 shipped to your door. Prefer personal check or USPS money order made out to ARRL Foundation with memo line reading Challenge Met Scholarship. Thanks for reading the email. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion
Here is where a can of freeze spray can sometimes serve to help with diagnostics. I serviced a Collins 516F2 power supply used with a KWM-2 and found that the molded socket for one of the rectifiers had an internal short that could not be seen from the outside. -Original Message- From: Richard Knoppow 1oldle...@ix.netcom.com To: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Feb 10, 2012 12:27 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion A look at the schematic indicates that you have hit all the usual suspects. So, what else could cause the control grid voltage to go positive? I wonder if the tube socket is leaky. Even if the tube is on an extender it might be the socket. It might be something on the surface of the socket between pins. Pin 6 is the screen grid so leakage from that could cause the problem. Check the socket for carbon tracks or anything on the surface. Clean it thoroughly with dry alcohol. Temperature might make a difference if there is either a carbon track or something else there. Perhaps far fetched but easy enough to do and worth a try. If cleaning makes a difference but does not cure the problem a new socket might be in order. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com - Original Message - From: Randy WB4SPB wb4...@earthlink.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 8:53 PM Subject: [Drakelist] R4B audio distortion Hi folks, I've owned my beloved R4B since the mid-70's. From about 1985 until 2000, it was stored while I got busy with job/family. I used it again for several months in 2002 and 2003, and I didn't notice anything unusual. Now I am active again and want to use it full time, but I am hearing audio distortion after about 5 minutes of operation. Poking around, I observe the cathode of V7 is at higher voltage than expected, and the grid has more than 2 volts, where 0 is expected. Coupling cap C185? No, lift one side, and no change. R154 has the correct value. Cathode resistor? R44 has the correct value, and I tried a different one anyway, in case it was thermally unstable, with no change. I've replaced C176 (along with the other small electrolytics in the RX), no difference. I haven't tackled replacing the big electrolytic can yet, but voltages and ripple seem pretty much OK on all terminals of that unit (e.g. 7mv at C90A, and 35mv at C90D, 75mv at C90C). At power up, the V7 grid is slightly more than 0V, cathode voltage nominal. As time goes on, these creep slowly upward. After 5-6 minutes, the grid is approaching 3V. 30 seconds after power up: V7 pin 1: 4.8 pin 2,5: .006 pin 6: 134 pin 7: 146 5-6 minutes after power up: V7 pin 1: 6.2 pin 2,5: 2.9 pin 6: 129 pin 7: 139 I note screen and plate voltages have fallen off a little. If they were a little high to begin with, it may be because my line voltage is sometimes a bit high: I measured 122VAC today. I presume the drop in these values reflects increased current through V7. I get the same basic behavior when I have the receiver on a variac and control the line voltage to something less than 120VAC. The audio sounds good for the first several minutes, but it becomes harsh sounding at some point. I don't know what the output waveform looks like. So I could feel better about V7 running hard while I poked around, I put a fan on it, above the chassis ... and lo, the grid/cathode voltages started to drop. The grid stabilizes at about 0.3V with a healthy amount of forced air on the 6EH5, and the audio sounds good. Conductive socket material when hot? I don't think so: I put the tube on a 1.5-inch extender to reduce heat at the socket, with no change in behavior. Bad tube? No, two others behave the same way. I've researched other R4B audio distortion discussions, some on this list. None seem helpful. I'm stumped... any ideas? Thanks and 73, Randy WB4SPB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Pointer knob lines
I use a whitening stick avaiable, I believe, from Antique Electronic Supply. You make sure the knob is clean, including the white line area, then you rub the stick over the indentation, wipe off the excess, and there you are! -Original Message- From: m coffey r79b...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Feb 5, 2012 7:42 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Pointer knob lines What suggestions does the group have on re-whitening the lines on the pointer knobs? I was thinking of using model enamel and a toothpick, wiping away any excess with qtips. Mike. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: AUX-7 board for TR-7, TR-7A, R-7, R-7A
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Have for sale an AUX-7 board. $60 shipped to your door via Priority Mail. Can only ship to lower 48 states. Payment can be via PayPal or USPS money order. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7
Curious as to why the VOX and ALC come from the power supply rather than the rig itself. I always thought that was a strange arrangement. Fortunately, I have a stereo cable with color coded channels so it makes connection simple but would be simpler to run shorter leads directly from the rig to the linear. Drake always seemed to have good reasons for what they did but this one has me puzzled, hi hi... 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Jan 28, 2012 9:37 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7 Ron - Oh, and the VOX relay contact is right next to it on Pin 8. A REAL relay contact too, none of this wimpy reed relay stuff. :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Ron wrote: I am sure that are at least a few folks who are using the TR7 with a power supply other than the PS7. And I am thinking of those some are using linears. So where and how did you gain access to the ALC line of the TR7? TNX es 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] For Sale: Harbach Electronics SS-100 Universal Soft-Start?
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, While going through downsizing of ham items, I came across what I believe to be a Harbach Electronics Universal Soft-Start, model SS-100. The part number on the board itself is CET-1-0. The board looks identical to the SS-100 on the Harbach website. It is factory assembled and has never been used nor installed. With it I found instructions for an SS-100 that included installation instructions for a Clipperton L and also instructions for installing it in an L-4 power supply, which is virtually identical to the L4B and L7 supplies. I can sell it to you for $23 shipped Priority Mail to your door. Unable to guarantee it due to the fact I have no control over the installation process. Please NOTE that this should only be installed by experienced technicians that are familiar with high voltage equipment and, specifically, the power supplies for Drake linears. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening
If the dark brown is due to UV exposure, there is no way to restore it since it is throughout the plastic. If it is smoker's grunge, then a variety of cleaners can be used BUT make sure they are NON-abrasive and don't due other damage. I use some cleaner for delicate plastic, electronic equipment, etc. that is made by GC. As with any cleaner, proceed with caution and test a hidden area to see if the cleaner is compatible with the plastic. Might have some added tips in the WB4HFN Drake website or Electric Radio magazine. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Allen Bush adb66...@yahoo.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2012 7:14 am Subject: [Drakelist] Question about dial darkening I see there may be someone that has removed the dark brown discoloration from a Drake dial. (I have about 3 Drakes with this problem.) Can anyone lend specific light on how to accomplish this without destroying the dial? THANKS! Allen, W0OUU ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T4XB audio
As a side note, the narrower the passband of the filter(s) the more critical is the alignment of the transmitter in most rigs... ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Saga of L7 fan resolved?
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Just to recap the past several months, I had a problem with the fan in one of my L7 linear amps. It would work but after several minutes it would start making noise and then just stop. After fault isolating and finding nothing defective, I incorrectly assumed it was the fan. After replacing the fan with a new, original, or improved version, replacing the thermostat twice, replacing the dropping resistor twice, and replacing the fan circuit leads, I was on the verge of running out of alternatives. Then a friend (thanks Woody!) indicated he had a similar experience and used a different fan, with success. I followed in his footsteps and, without having any logic for doing so, replaced the fan with a new model that had a similar current rating as the original. As part of the replacement process, I changed the series dropping resistor from 470 ohms to 300 ohms. The particular fan that I used was an IMC Boxer, model 4715RS-12W-B10. The result? It worked and has continued to work with over 6 hours of testing so hopefully this is a permanent solution. Moral of the story? Replacing the fan with an original was not a solution as one would have expected. Why? Well, although I bought the fans from different sources (one was directly from the manufacturer), and they had identical part numbers, something in the manufacturing process changed. I talked with a rep on the phone who informed me that the 450S fan was a sleeve model category, while the 450 was a ball bearing category. Since the company has change hands 2-3 times in the last 8-10 years, hard to know what happened when. So even though the 450 and 450S had identical part numbers, they both must have had some production line variances perhaps in the lubricant used in the fans. Obviously, the heat from the L7 was too much for these fans. Hence, if one needs to replace the fan, considering alternate models of the fan should be a priority. There might be some experimentation, however, to get the right balance between slow speed cooling that is quiet yet effective, versus when the thermostat closes to activate the high speed configuration. Selecting the right fan and dropping resistor is a trial and error process but it shouldn't take too long. I hope the journey that I have been on will shorten your path should you have to replace the fan. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4 vs. L4B
The tubes are indeed different in several respects as are the amps. The L4 uses 3-400 tubes with chimneys that curve in at the top toward the heat dissipating plate cap. The L4B uses 3-500Z tubes with chimneys that are straight (same as a Coleman lantern globe). Whether the tubes are interchangeable depends on the physical size (one of those tubes is smaller than the other) and there is, I believe, a slight difference in some of the ratings on the tubes. The info is available online. The L4 does not have a standby switch on the front panel. The L4B has a standby switch on the front panel. Not sure about the L4, but the L4B has adjustable ALC pot on the front panel. L4 uses two 100K 50 watt resistors in parallel for part of the the bleeders and ALC circuit in the power supply. The L4B uses two 50K 50 watt resistors in series for part of the bleeder and ALC circuit in the power supply. Those are the main differences to my limited knowledge. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: m coffey r79b...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, Jan 12, 2012 5:17 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L4 vs. L4B Can anyone tell me the difference between the L4 and L4B ? Can one replace the 4-400s with 3-500s? Mike ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-7 fan failure due to heat
Fellow enthusiasts, I'm wondering if any users of the Drake L-7 linear amplifier have experienced fan noise and lock-up due to excessive heat. If so, I wonder how the problem was solved. Other than the fan problem, amplifier operates properly, with correct output, on all bands. The fan problem started about a year or more ago and I've worked on it on and off since then with no progress. Prior to that, the amp worked fine. How do I know the problem is heat? Well, let me give you a brief description of some things done so far with no improvement. Fan replaced four times with new models from different vendors. Thermostat replaced twice. Dropping resistor replaced several times. Wiring in fan circuit replaced. Fan wired directly to 110 vac with no change. Known good tubes swapped with no change. Here is how the problem can be induced. With the amplifier on, standby, CW or SSB, tubes in or out, the fan will run continuously as it should, and with no problems. If the amplifier is used on the air, regardless of CW or SSB mode, regardless of power level, the fan will start making noise and eventually stop. If the amp is allowed to cool down, things start working normally. In amp is put into transmit, with normal plate idling current, and NO input power (and thus no output power), the fan will start making noise and then stop after approximately 5-10 minutes. Allowing the amp to cool down, the process can be replicated with consistency. Note too, when the amp is operated normally and the fan uses the power source via the amp wiring, the fan will start making noise and eventually stop without it ever switching into high speed mode. If you have experienced such a problem and have solved it, I would be interested in hearing what the solution is. I have two other L7s that operate flawlessly so I'm still on the air but I like to keep my gear in proper operating condition if possible. Enjoy those Drakes! And don't forget the Drake HF nets. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fans
Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that will start reliably and run consistently. Super quiet! 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Michael Kelly mkell...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Fans Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question I wire two 110 vac fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move a good deal of air. The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in the front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a circular air flow pattern and the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and for fun) I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on the finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball about half the size of a pea to serve as feet on each corner of the fan. It won't stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary. So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 3 way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver. Cooler is better, eh? Happy New Year everyone. Michael n4mak Sent from my iPhone // At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote: I've done all which-ways. I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow it down. I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 12V wall wart. the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed. This fan cost me $5 at a hamfest. I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier). The fans he used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan. If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed wires through that hole. I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber feet. No holes get drilled that way... YMMV, Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils. John Stark. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.netMichael Sue Trussell Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM To: mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.netdrakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter? I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on. I would like the fan to come on when I turn on the power to the transmitter, any suggestions? Thank you in advance Michael J Trussell KA8ASN -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist / ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity
To see if there are filament problems, I have found that attaching flea clips to the filament wires (not pins) and running leads outside the amp to a vtvm or vom is a way to see if there is a problem in the filament circuit. Since high voltage is involved, this is NOT something a novice should even attempt. It is ONLY for experts who are completely familiar with high voltage equipment and associated safety! -Original Message- From: David w...@cox.net To: 'Jim Shorney' jshor...@inebraska.com; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Jan 3, 2012 6:35 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity Agree. Using an ohm meter would show little unless zero. For example, if the resistance caused by the pin adds 0.1 ohm, then for a 15 amp filament, that is a 1.5 volt drop; 30% less than normal. If you had a grid to filament short you were right on time for the new year's fireworks. I have also read MANY YEARS AGO THAT THE REDISH COLOR IS A HEALTHY NORMAL, so unless there is a crack in the glass, running it hot when the filaments are fixed, should get it back to the right unclouded condition. Again, careful! Good luck. David Assaf, III W5XU -Original Message- From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Jim Shorney Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 10:26 PM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a little bit red in operation for the gettering to work. Also, just a tiny bit of extra resistance in the filament pin is all it takes to dim a tube. An ordinary Ohmmeter won't register the difference. 73 -Jim On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 22:00:06 -0600, richard radke wrote: All, Thanks to everyone who made suggestions. Solder on the pins all look ok. .5½'s on each filament. I'm guessing a grid to filament short/ leak when it gets hot. I did notice a slight bit of clouding near the top of the envelope that wasn't there before. Maybe from running the filament with way less than 5V. Thoughts ? At any rate, a replacement 3-400Z is gonna be hard to find (out of production for years) so I'll probably just get a new 3-500 to go with the one I already have. Rick W9WS -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4721 - Release Date: 01/03/12 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Microphone options
Heil does indeed sell cartridges and microphones. HOWEVER, it is only at the Dayton Hamvention to my knowledge. The full product line is available from authorized dealers. I've had very favorable experiences with Heil and I hope everybody else does too. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net To: rhulett1 rhule...@comcast.net; Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Dec 19, 2011 8:17 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Microphone options Unfortunately, Curt, unless you can find different areas of his site than I did, it appears that Bob Heil has decided to stop selling cartridges. That is unfortunate, in my humble opinion, as I read of others with the Kobitone failure problem you mention. I know of no other replacement cartridges of quality anymore if Heil has stopped the practice of selling cartridges. I hope my search was just faulty. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Harbach Soft Key has been SOLD
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, The Harbach Soft Key has been sold. Thanks for all the interest. I wish I had more for everybody. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] For Sale: Harbach SK-401 Soft Key
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, I have a brand new, in sealed bag, Harbach Electronics SK-401 Soft Key. This is what is used as an interface between, for example, an L4B linear amplifier and a modern solid state transciever that has limitations in terms of the voltage and current that the PTT circuit can handle for keying a linear amplifier. Current price from manufacturer is $27 BUT my price is $20, shipped to your QTH, continental US only, unable to ship to Alaska, Hawaii, Canada, Mexico, or any other country. Payment must be via PayPal or USPS money order. Thanks for reading the posting. Enjoy those Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability
Eddy, Well, it depends. One thing that will add to the drift rate is how often and to what degree the final amplifier is exercised. A fan pulling the hot air out helps if it is located above or behind the final amplifier cage. Because of this, the R4C is often used for primary frequency control with a C line. My experience with the B line, C line, and 7 line, is that there are classes of drift due to either production line variations, component lots, or luck of the draw. For example, I've had TR-7s that drift well under 50 hz per hour while others have drifted over 200 hz per hour and needed 18-24 hours to stabilize; too, some never stabilized. Enjoy those Drakes. And don't forget the Drake nets... 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Eddy Swynar deswy...@xplornet.ca To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Nov 25, 2011 9:33 am Subject: [Drakelist] T-4X Stability Hi All, The manual for my T-4X states that stability is LESS THAN 100 CYCLES AFTER WARM-UP. My question is simply this: how long, exactly, is an accepted period of warm-up...? After all of the hoops that I've jumped through in stabilizing the PTO in my rig (re-buiding it almost, actually!), I decided this morning to actually measure its drift. I used my ICOM 751A transceiver (in general coverage mode) as the frequency umpire, and tuned it directly to the Drake PTO's output frequency of 5454.0-KHz. Both rigs were in the basement overnight, where the ambient room temperature was 59F. I measured the frequency a total of SIX times, i.e. (1) immediately at the start of the test, (2) 3 minutes into the test, (3) 15 minutes into the test, (4) 30 minutes into the test, (5) 1 hour into the test, and finally (6) two hours into the test... Here are my results: (1) 5454.0-KHz (cold start); (2) 5454.0-KHz (unchanged from cold start); (3) 5453.5-KHz (downward drift of 500-Hz from cold start); (4) 5453.0 KHz (downward drift of 1-KHz from cold start); (5) 5452.8-KHz (downward drift of 1.2-KHz from cold start), and, (6) 5452.8-KHz (unchanged). So---it looks like the rascal that I have here stabilizes after a good hour of steady warm-up, which leads me to suspect that maybe warm-up to the writer of the manual was, in fact, just that, i.e. one hour...? No matter, it was a most interesting exercise---and I sure would be curious if my rig's performance might match that of some of the other T-4Xs that are out there...although I dare say, probably not everyone has as thick a hide as I do in being able to withstand a 59F ambient room temperature...! Hi Hi. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.
Please be aware that all the mods at that website are not necessarily advisable, because of damage to the equipment, compromised safety, or ineffective results. I've gave up on that website when I saw things like remove the heat from the L4B power supply by taking the 50K 50 wt resistors out of the circuit. Well, yes, it does reduce heat, but it also removes part of the bleeder resistor network and it also disables the ALC function. Thanks, but no thanks. On a more positive note...Happy Thanksgiving -Original Message- From: Gypsymt34 gypsym...@aol.com To: w1es1982 w1es1...@earthlink.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Nov 23, 2011 3:21 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me. Hello Steve, w1es1...@earthlink.net writes: Does anyone have more information on which components are mounted on this board? FWIW modsDK http://www.mods.dk/view.php?ArticleId=3237 has three pieces of information on an SPR4 The owners manual which had a schematic and the service manual. The latter is shades of a TR7 manual ( I am told) in that you had parts lists and numbers, portional schematics, and pictures with parts labeled. Along with full schematic. There was also a separate schematic which might not be a bad idea in that you could take it and digitally have it blown up and printed at your local Kinko or print shop. Problem on modsdk if you haven't used them is that you can only pull a free item every three days. They also showed two modifications its a separate list. 73 and have fun, Carl wd8nhk ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial
My experience is that the independently owned hardware stores where I live actually sell surgical tubing in a few sizes. -Original Message- From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com To: Allen Bush adb66...@yahoo.com Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 5:18 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial Allen - There are several choices. The original is surgical rubber tubing, which is a translucent amber colored rubber tubing. It's very soft and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material. Unfortunately after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color. It is difficult to find unless you have a friend who works in a hospital. If you have a surgical supply store they will often cut off a foot or so for you, which is a lifetime supply. Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black rubber, fabric reinforced tubing available at auto supply stores. Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply. Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels. Again, you need a foot or less! ALL of the above are 3/8 id x 5/8 od. You need to cut a piece about a half inch long. More than the absolute length, the ends must be cut square and flat. I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little aluminum 'miter' box. Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the tubing, but usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing collapsing when cut. But you've got a foot or so to experiment with, right?!?! When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to engage the clutch surfaces and then tighten the set screws. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Allen Bush wrote: Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt? Mine have turned hard and are cracking and turning to dust Allen, W0OUU ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Service?
I'm sure there are others but the best in my opinion are... Jeff, WA8SAJ Ron, WB4HFN John Kriner (the Man) in Middletown, Ohio. Specifics on the above and others are on the WB4HFN Drake website. -Original Message- From: Daniel Wright dwrigh...@neb.rr.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Oct 22, 2011 5:09 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Service? I know I know...the subject has been beaten to death, but I must be honest, I have not paid much attention. I have been able to deal with any and all problems...UNTIL NOW. So who is the best with Drake repair? I have an R4C and a T4XC that both have the dreaded PTO freeze up. The T4XC PTO won't move at all and the R4C is WAY off frequency. I am hearing 14178 at 14478 (I think) on the dial. The R4C has some really nice Sherwood mods and lots of extra crystals. I really really want it to play nicely. Thanks to you guys! A bummed out Drake owner...de Dan -- WAØJRD ps. the rigs have been sitting idle for a couple of years, and I also moved from my house to a bachelor pad. Meaning that they SHOULD have been handled carefully, but I wasn't watching the movers all the time. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7
Woody and Everyone, There are four basic things that have to be done on an L7 to get it on 10 meters. 1. Bypass/remove the 10 meter filter board on the input circuit. 2. Remove the mechanical stop on the bandswitch; there are at least two, and possibly more, ways in which Drake implemented it so you have to adjust your approach commensurate with what was used on your amp. It can get ugly and be aware of dropped parts that go into unwanted places. Use of blue Painters' tape can help to catch the falling parts. 3. Install two 68 pf mica caps on the input circuit per the article that is out on the Internet. I have it but don't have time right now to post the link or reference. Removing the bandswitch shaft is necessary to do this properly. 4. Adjust the 15 meter input coil as warranted. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Oct 19, 2011 7:40 am Subject: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7 Hello Everyone from a Very Cool Heart of Dixie What has to be done to the L7 to get it to work on 10 Mtrs? Now before you get too technical on me remember I'm Dumb as a Rock, so please explain in lets say Electronics for Dummies mode. Thanks Woody -- If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It still sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only theirs. Thanks Woody ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L7 10 meter mod reference?
10Meter%20Adaptation%20for%20Drake%20L7,%20Drake,%20tr4,%20tr7,%20drake%20radio,%20drake%20receiver,%20drake%20transceiver,%20ham%20radio%20equipment,%20ham%20radio%20receivers,%20radio%20equipment.webarchive___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Variac
Neil, I'm somewhat compulsive about such things. The older a rig is, or the longer it has set idle, the longer the program or process. In the worst case, I use 10 volts per hour increase. In other cases, I start with 10 volts per 15 minutes. My Variac has three meters---one for voltage, one for current, and one for power in watts. It is easy to see that when the ammeter increase at about the same amount as the voltage, you readily know there is a problem and not to proceed until fault isolation has been completed. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Oct 15, 2011 10:25 am Subject: [Drakelist] Variac When bringing up a radio on a variac, do I slowly continuously turn the power up or go step by step? I've never used one. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)
Considering how easy it is to build a tuner for 160, even a double balanced one for open wire feedline, not sure who would want to butcher a classic tuner and lower the value by 50%. Then again, that happens frequently when you see all the pilot lights, switches, repaints, etc. of vintage gear on Upay. As to the limited matching range of the Johnson Matchbox, I've never had a problem in that area. It is indeed hard to determine the matching range of a tuner because the specs generally don't state the matching range or, if they do, they typically only give the resistive component and not the reactive component; it is the latter that is the gotcha. Enjoy those Drakes... -Original Message- From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net; BARS w...@yahoogroups.com; k4eg k...@yahoogroups.com; Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2011 7:18 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) There is a rather straight forward mod for the Johnsons to allow them to cover 160. Somewhere I have the article. Does require some work and potentially a 12volt supply if you use relays vs switches. Unfortunately, it mods/butchers a classic tuner unit, but if you can stand doing that. I used this tuner with Drake C-Lines through Yaesu FT-1000D. It never complained after I removed that toroid. Honestly, it you want a balanced-line tuner for 80-10, look for a Johnson KW Matchbox. If you need balanced for High-power 160, you'd better roll your own. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Posting a request
Ron, It doesn't matter. When you call International Crystal, you just tell them what crystal from what radio and they have all the specs. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Ron Ries rr...@xmission.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Oct 2, 2011 12:35 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Posting a request Hi All, i have posted this request several places on the internet and tried to listen in to the Drake Tech Net but couldn't connect. I am restoring a Drake TR-7A and the 13.695 MHz VCXO crystal has drifted way off frequency. I am trying to have a new made at ICM. I also have ordered on from John Kriner but need the following information: What is the load capacitance for this crystal in the VCXO application? Thanks! Ron KK7KZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake PS-7 test ideas
Automobile headlamps, in parallel (high and low beam), battery load testers for automobile batteries, come to mind... -Original Message- From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Sep 19, 2011 2:47 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Drake PS-7 test ideas I acquired a broken PS-7 which I now have working. I am wondering if anyone has ideas for a temporary testing setup for this beefy 13.6 Volt, 25 Amp power supply? I really don't want my TR-7 to be the first test load. TNX es 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] FS-4
I have owned several FS-4s over the years but do not have any now. The FS-4 can be considered as stable as a crystal BUT it does not add anything to overall stability to the R4C, for example. Why? The main part that contributes to drift is the PTO so whether one uses and FS-4 or plug in crystal, the stability is basically unchanged. The FS-4 is handy for SWLing, WARC, etc. but at today's prices, only the rich can afford them... -Original Message- From: Hunter Ellington wb9...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 13, 2011 9:05 am Subject: [Drakelist] FS-4 FWIW, I purchased an ebay FS-4 several years ago and love it. It has really made my R4-C shine. Rock solid. Enjoy. K0GFY R. Hunter Ellington 303-454-0543/720-560-8139 P.O. Box 44 Larkspur, CO 80118 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?
Steve, et al, Yes, it does well to be an informed shopper and ask the right questions, request pics, etc. but there is still the issue of the integrity of the seller. That is, if the seller is not honest you might not get honest answers. More than one auction and online seller has used pictures of mint gear when selling basket cases. Even with an honest seller, there is a limit as to how much risk reduction can be accomplished, and it isn't 99%, and attempting to do so can be problematic. When selling off my Collins gear, some of the questions posed to me were... Can you guarantee that the equipment was never in a smoking environment? Can you guarantee that no modifications were ever made to the receiver? Can assure me that no parts were ever replaced? If parts were replaced, can you guarantee they were Collins approved parts? Can you tell me which Collins field upgrades were done and which were not? For those that were done, were they done by a Collins authorized service center? And a few questions about where specific components were in particular locations/orientations. A good percentage of vintage, collectable equipment, has had multiple owners and generally there is little or no documentation as to the history of the equipment. Answering the above questions is virtually impossible, that is, for honest answers. I've been cheated on equipment that was working perfectly according to the seller. After purchase, I addressed the many issues and the seller merely said, Well, that's what the fellow said that sold it to me. I never plugged it in. Unless one inspects and tests a piece of equipment before purchase, there is always some chance that some work will be required to get it into the advertised condition. Hence, price negotiations should keep this in mind. Too, I and others have observed that the HF swap nets afford gear that is priced well below auction prices, with integrity of the sellers typically well above many of the online auction and ad sellers. In contrast, net participants are often well known and a poor reputation spreads quickly. However, trends are that people don't want to wait until a piece of equipment becomes available on the nets and are more than willing to spend top dollar on risky online auctions or purchases. In my first 25 years as a ham I never heard of a deal gone sour. Today, well, times are a changing... Enjoy that Drake gear. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net To: captcurt captc...@flash.net Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Tue, Sep 6, 2011 8:33 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Thanks to all for the comments. Most of you are more or less validating what I had already arrived at. I am thinking, at this point, of giving it a decent cleaning and alignment and selling it as it is - sort of like a Model A Ford with a manifold heater and an electric wiper. It wasn't really my intent to get to a museum piece anyway. The B that I intend to keep (the one I just bought Saturday) has its blemishes (a new email forthcoming...) but is basically un-messed-with. My concern is in getting all or most of my money back on the modified one. It is interesting in its own right, but my shack has limited space and so I'm not considering the changes made to the modified B to be significant enough to me to merit keeping it. One thing I will say about the modded B is that the previous owner did check the tubes in it and kept them the rig in good repair in that regard. I plan on hitting the underneath with plenty of Charlie's Soap in an attempt at drawing out some of the oils left in the wafers. Yes, both R-4B's and the new T-4X will be going to the kitchen sink and oven eventually. We've had that debate before ;-) 73, Steve, W1ES -Original Message- From: Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net Sent: Sep 6, 2011 8:49 AM To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] What would you do? Hi Steve: I pretty much go along the lines Don laid out. I think there are very few original 10/10 radios out there and they are not obtainable by me. There are some that are restored to claimed 10/10 but that is an endless debate. Just like classic cars. I have a half a room full of Drake, Yaesu, Swan, etc. rigs that I can say EVERY one except my original A line came to me non-working...and they now all work fine and get used all the time. But they are in differeing conditions. On a real historically significant radio, like my R390A, I could easily erase or cover up all of its use wear and tear...but I kind of appreciate the wear on the knobs and the worn paint around the most used controls, etc. It is a sign that someone before me spent hours coaxing some clandestine signals from that wonderful rig. I surely don't appreciate having someone give me less than the full disclosure on a radio--although
Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan
Not sure what the conflict is. Having a fan pull hot air out of the cabinet is good for the finals, and frequency stability. -Original Message- From: Henry Foglesong hwfogles...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2011 7:46 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Cooling fan I hear conflicting opinions about the advisability of using a cooling fan (eg: muffin fan) on top of the finals of T-4XB and XC transmitters. Any opinions in this group? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] auxiliary crystals for Drake T-4XC
I buy all my crystals from International Crystal. Just tell them the frequency, what it is going to be used in, and they have all the data. Comes with a lifetime guarantee and all my orders have arrived sooner than what they quoted. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Henry Foglesong hwfogles...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Aug 15, 2011 6:54 am Subject: [Drakelist] auxiliary crystals for Drake T-4XC Can someone suggest a good source for T-4XC auxiliary crystals? In case I need to go to a source like Jan's Crystals, beyond the frequency, what specs do I need to provide (eg: holder type, capacitance, etc.)? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4-B on AM
At one time, there seemed to be great interest in the L-4B because it could run 1 kw input on CW, RTTY, and AM. A lot of other amps were rated at, for example 1,500 watts input on SSB but maybe only 700 or so on AM because they didn't have power supplies, cooling, etc. for continuous duty or high duty cycle modes. I'm sure there are some users out there, maybe on some of the AM nets, that have direct experience. Note, however, the top of the cabinet, especially over the tubes, gets quite warm in such applications... -Original Message- From: Don Cunningham d...@martineer.net To: jsloss k7...@comcast.net; drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Aug 14, 2011 8:08 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4-B on AM I too would be interested in the L4B's performance/use on AM. I may use the DX-60 or T4XC as the driver, but same question, hi. 73, Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake front panels
My experiences have been 100% positive. Tony is a nice guy that does great work. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Henry Foglesong hwfogles...@gmail.com To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Aug 12, 2011 9:21 pm Subject: [Drakelist] Drake front panels Has anyone had experience with replacement panels from KF8MW, and if so, would you comment on their quality, please? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fading
There is a slight addendum that I believe should be added to the traditional belief that antennas need to be physically separated in order to use them for diversity reception. While I agree with the statement for identical antennas, it does not necessarily hold for dissimilar antennas. Why? If the two antennas are identical, then they will be equal in all attributes and unless they are physically separated, then the signal could be expected to be identical with either antenna, fading included. But what about dissimilar antennas? If you have two antennas in close proximity, but they are different, they can be used to counter the results of some types of fading. For example, if the two antennas have different radiation/reception patterns, they might exhibit different characteristics if the fading is along the lines of the signal arriving from different elevation angles. I've never seen an article address this phenomenon but based upon empirical data, it does work. My installation uses two horizontal loop antennas approximately concentric with each other, that I use on the 40 m band for the Drake Nets and HF swap nets. The 40 m loop is about 12' high and the 80 m loop is about 25' high. Models of these antennas show that the radiation/reception patterns are different as one would expect; a horizontal loop antenna used on frequencies higher than the fundamental will exhibit more low angle lobes as the frequency is increased. It is interesting to observe how signals from different directions and distances are received when using both antennas, one connected to my TR-7A and one connected to my R-7A. Sometimes one antenna is better than the other, and sometimes they are the same. What is most interesting is that sometimes a signal that is Q5 copy on one antenna can't be heard at all on the other. This results in coverage that would otherwise be impossible had these two, close proximity antennas not been used. While many diversity systems use two receivers with various schemes for connecting the AVC lines etc., you can achieve the same thing functionally by using the perceptual and cognitive abilities of the human operator. Feed the signal from one antenna/receiver to one side of your headphones, and feed the signal from the other antenna/receiver to the other side of your headphones. While this system isn't supposed to work, I haven't told my antennas that yet so they just keep on working... -Original Message- From: Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com To: Nigel A. Gunn, W8IFF/G8IFF ni...@ngunn.net Cc: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 8:29 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Fading Yes. Diversity reception is a well known technique, but you need a radio so-configured or a separate box to process the inputs from the two antennas. The antennas must be physically separated from each other sufficiently that a fade on one would not necessarily occur in the other at the same time. The good news is that the technique really does work. Dennis AE6C On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 4:27 PM, Nigel A. Gunn, W8IFF/G8IFF ni...@ngunn.net wrote: Look up diversity reception On 08/07/2011 11:22 PM, Neil M Califano wrote: This is a bit off topic, but how can two receiving antennas be used to reduce fading? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4
I've found that any antenna, tower, rotor, etc. device used outdoors can benefit from the use of stainless steel hardware, nylon insert locknuts as appropriate. You can buy it online at a price, including shipping, that is less than what you can buy locally for standard, plated hardware. -Original Message- From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com; drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 11:11 am Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Finally got the switch box apart. Have to replace all the external screws. even with penetrating oil I was only able to remove one without snapping the head off, or having to grind them off, just way too rusty. The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag was not as watertight as it should have been. With the help of a little oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let it sit and see if it moves more freely later. Unfortunately, I have to replace both terminal strips, they are both beyond any attempt at repair. Otherwise it looks good. Will have to wait till I get the terminal strips replaced before I can apply any power, but this doesn't look like it's hopeless. Loren - WA3WZR On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote: Loren, One more thing. One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I brushed it carefully with a small wire brush and scraped rust off screw heads and put a small drop of lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on the threads when I got them backed out. I may have replaced the screws --I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the screws were removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still working. Be careful of the phenolic board the strips are made out of, it can be brittle. Rick W0RT - Original Message - From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for. I know it was fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside while I was QRT. I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use. What is the best way to take it apart? All of the screws appear to be rusted and won't loosen. Loren - WA3WZR On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote: Loren I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's. I have had to work on mine a few times. I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit. Do you have specific questions? Rick Tucker W0RT - Original Message - From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4 Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4. I haven't really looked at either piece yet. The control head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch has been sitting outside in the elements. Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s. Would like to get them both back in operational condition. Thanks, Loren - WA3WZR ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3806 - Release Date: 08/02/11 - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3807 - Release Date: 08/03/11 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Does Anyone Remember the 1970's AES Ad with Ray Grenier?
I did see Ray Grenier at the 2011 Hamvention as we passed each other in an aisle but before I could turn around and get caught up he was gone. He did look happy, then again, it WAS Hamvention after all... ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] thoughts
Ron, What can help is to make yourself a cheat sheet so you can quickly determine the steps to go through during tune up. Reading an extended, vague, narrative while key down and tuning up is not good practice, hi hi. Too, the AC-4 should be in good operating condition with respect to the bias supply so if it hasn't been rebuilt yet, it needs to be. Too, using a tuning pulser or a CW keyer sending dots can be useful during tune up. Also, as part of tune up, having a PEP or other wattmeter to look for power out during tune up can be useful; if you're doing things by the book and output isn't quite right, then you know not to proceed until a problem is found. What can really help is to tune up into a dummy load first, then go to the real world. Enjoy those Drakes and don't forget the Drake nets. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: ron ronc...@verizon.net To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Aug 5, 2011 7:21 am Subject: [Drakelist] thoughts Gang, I been enjoying the Drake TR4C for a spell, then let it rest awhile while using my current solid state radios. I decided to return to Drakes and whoa! I forget how to tune these babies. I had to re-learn (has something to do with my grey hair I suppose). I was wondering if you guys get nervous too during the tuning process so as not to ruin the finals. It just scares me sometimes 72 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question
Woody, You can use whichever approach is attractive to you. Just remember, the injection cable must be a low capacity cable, I believe Drake used a 91 ohm low capacity cable; might want to check the experts on this one. If you have good soldering skills, you can make your own. Or if you prefer, premade cables can be obtained at the WB4HFN website and elsewhere. Welcome back to Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 8:11 am Subject: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question Gentlemen, I have a R4B T4XB combo that I have had for many years and have never used except for the R4B. Now that I'm playing with my Drakes again I have decided to use them or at least try. Would it be better to buy the injection and other cables or make my own, if so what would be the best cable to use and what are the length's. Where would be the best place to get them, I see some advertised on Ebay. Any help would as always be appreciated, and of course some of you know I'm Dumb as a Rock on some of this, but I'm a Happy Rock!! Thanks Woody -- If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. Thanks ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] FS: original diode boards for L4 L4B and L7 power supplies
Fellow enthusiasts, I have for sale some new, unused, original diode boards for the Drake L4, L4B, and L7 linears. These are just the boards, NOT populated with diodes or equalizing resistors. The foil traces are already factory tinned for easy soldering. Set of two (2) boards, enough for one power supply, shipped USPS priority mail to your door for $10, lower 48 states only. Alaska and Hawaii would require extra shipping but not sure how much. I am unable to ship to any foreign country regardless of location. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B, L7, protection resistor failure mode
Fellow enthusiasts, Had a question about the 0.82 protection resistor in an L7 power supply, which is identical to the supply used for the L4B and almost identical to the one used with the L4. I've been using this configuration for almost 10 years without any problems. I've had experiences with these resistors in my amplifiers as well as those I've serviced for others. Typically, a high voltage short will pop that resistor very fast and protect the diode strings and transformer, if the short is external to the power supply (i.e. in the cable or RF deck). Yesterday I had a failure of that resistor with a failure mode that is unlike anything I've ever experienced before and wonder if anybody else has seen this phenomenon as well. When tuning up my L4B that used the L7PS with a brief over current situation, followed by a brief arc in the RF deck followed by a sizzling sound in the power supply caused by the protection resistor entering a failure mode. To make a long story short, that resistor did not fail instantaneously. Instead, the body of the resistor had maybe 25% of it blown away and the carbon element down the center was fractured and not making continuous contact. As long as the amp was in standby, there was no problem. When going into transmit, the resistor would arc and light up the inside of the case but would not fail in a typical, rapid manner. Fortunately I shut things down and eliminated further damage. I've repaired supplies where the paper insulation on the transformer was burned or carbonized in some cases indicating there might have been a small fire; details from the owners were sketchy since the supplies were always out of sight and direct observation was not possible during the failures. It is possible that the protection resistor was placed too close to the transformer; in these supplies it was obvious that somebody had replaced the resistors previously and the leads seemed to indicate close placement to the transformer winding. In any case, I wonder how many of you might have experienced a similar situation. I hope this is an isolated situation and it serves to remind us that when there is a problem like this, shutting things down quickly is the best course of action. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4C Power Transformer Rotation
Mu metal can be found in some old TVs (not all), oscilloscopes, etc. at low to free prices... -Original Message- From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net To: Drakelist group drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 7:26 am Subject: [Drakelist] R-4C Power Transformer Rotation As promised, here's my update concerning the R-4C power transformer and PTO modulation. First a special thanks to Bill, W6FF for providing me with a NOS R-4C transformer. Very much appreciated. However, a rare occurrence of good fortune came to me. It turns out that the existing R-4C transformer can be rotated 90 degrees and still have enough lead length on the transformer wiring to terminate the end points -- at least on my R-4C. Since transformer installation and wire termination was a manual process at Drake, exact lead lengths will differ. That said, I had more than enough wire length to accomplish the task without having to try the NOS transformer. In the links to images below, you can see the transformer after rotation as well as a ground lug added the PTO shield. The addition of the lug was suggested by Rob Sherwood in his PowerPoint presentation. He reasoned that the spade mounting forks do not always make good metal contact with the PTO frame to adequately allow for good PTO shielding -- although aluminum is a relatively ineffective shield against low frequency flux. In his case, he was able to attain a 10 dB reduction in flux induction with the addition of the ground lug. http://72.52.250.47/images/R4C.jpg http://72.52.250.47/images/R4C-1.jpg The rotation worked. At no point of VFO rotation can I detect PTO carrier modulation. This is not to say that it is 100% eliminated. A spectrum analyzer is needed to ensure absolute PTO oscillator purity. However, any remaining level of induced flux has now dropped down to the point of being inaudible. I'm saving my pennies for an HP 8591E spectrum analyzer w/ tracking generator. Every time I save enough, temptation comes over me like it did last Thursday when I purchased a mint S/Line. When I do obtain the SA, I plan on making more tests, including effects with Mu-metal shielding. I'm still looking for a source of authentic Mu-metal sheeting. I was also concerned about potential mechanical interference to the crystal calibrator board with the transformer rotated. Good news again. There's still ample room to insert/extract the calibrator board to/from its socket. No issues here. Transformer re-mounting: Even more good news. Unlike the R-4B transformer, the R-4C transformer mounting centers form a perfect square and the existing chassis holes are fine for mounting after rotation. However, new chassis access holes ARE required for the transformer wiring. I used a Greenlee 3/4 chassis punch to form two new holes. The chassis is still plenty strong after inclusion of the new holes, especially since the transformer mounting frame helps to ensure that the chassis remains rigid after bolt tightening. For anyone contemplating transformer rotation, it's a good idea to first pave the way for a chassis punch. I temporarily removed the chassis fuse holder and AC line select switch. This gave me all the room I needed without causing damage (and I'm good at causing damage to my gear in the shop). Before removal of these two items, I drew a sketch to help remind me of wiring placement. A quick snapshot with a digital camera is also a good idea. Paul, W9AC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] D104 and TR7
Woody, I've heard of numerous people using the D-104 with the TR-7 as discussed on the Drake nets. Values I've heard range from 470K to 1.3 meg in series with the mic hot lead. If there is a speech pre-amp in the mic, it should not be used. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 9:19 pm Subject: [Drakelist] D104 and TR7 Does any one know the mod to make the 104 work well with the TR7, I was told you added a resistor of some value but they didn't know the value or where to put it. I need to know it at the Mod's for Dummies level, I was a Toolmaker not a electronics man, well just enough to be dangerous and stay alive. Thanks Woody -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] WTB: L4B L7 power supply boards or rails
Fellow enthusiasts, Perhaps you've done the upgrade for the power supply used on the L4B and L7 linear amplifiers by installing the Harbach Electronics or Heathkit Shop boards. If so, you might be wondering what to do with the old, unused boards and/or rails. I have a need for some of those rails (the metal strips with an offset bend at each end used to mount the power supply boards to the case) and would like to buy some if they are excess to your needs. I'll buy a board with rails attached if need be. Just let me know what you have and the price including shipping to 45434. Enjoy using those Drakes and don't forget the Drake nets. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] SOLD: L4B/L7 power supply rebuild kit
Fellow enthusiasts, Thanks for all the nice emails. Wish I had a hundred kits available for all the Drake enthusiasts. Have a safe, enjoyable, holiday weekend. Please remember the price that has been paid for our freedom. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4B, L7 power supply rebuild kit for sale
Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, Have a rebuild kit that is excess to my needs. Consists of the Harbach Electronics retrofit board, capacitors, diodes, and resistors, ready for mounting. All new. This is ONLY for somebody familiar with the power supplies and working with high voltage equipment. If you are inexperienced or have any doubts, this kit is NOT for you. Price is $65 shipped to your door, 48 states only, not Alaska, Hawaii, Canada, Mexico, nor overseas. Thanks for reading this posting and enjoy that Drake gear. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC4 power supply rebuild!
Rebuild kits are available from Hayseed Electronics and the Heathkit Shop. -Original Message- From: Michael Sue Trussell mtruss8...@comcast.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, Jun 25, 2011 12:47 am Subject: [Drakelist] AC4 power supply rebuild! Forgot to ask about the AC4 power supply? I need to rebuild the AC4 supply for my C Line any suggestions? Thank you again Michael J Trussell KA8ASN ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR6
WA8SAJ, WB4HFN, and John Kriner, come to mind... -Original Message- From: Hal Dale wb4...@yahoo.com To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2011 8:20 am Subject: [Drakelist] TR6 Are there any TR6 Guru's out there. I have a issue with mine I need to discuss with someone. Hal, WB4AEG CW.When all else fails !! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] MN-2000 manual FS
Have a manual for the Drake MN-2000 for sale. $15 shipped to your door, continental US only. Enjoy those Drakes. 73, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-7 Loading Capacitor Shoritng
Roger, First order of business is to determine where the short(s) is taking place. Often when an arc occurs, a little pit builds up some of which goes below the surface and a little bit which goes above the flat surface on one or more fixed or variable plates. This in turn lowers the breakdown voltage which makes it easier to arc again. Once you locate where the problem areas are, then you can use either a flat/thin file or emery cloth to get a more uniform surface. Before doing any of this, however, it is a good idea to make sure that all of the plates are properly aligned, i.e. parallel to each other with no obvious bends, and that the adjustment of the fixed plates has not shifted. Typically the fixed plates are adjustable while the movable ones are not. Note too that dust or dirt can get the arc going too. Keep us posted. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Roger White rwhitete...@verizon.net To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Thu, Jun 9, 2011 5:57 pm Subject: [Drakelist] L-7 Loading Capacitor Shoritng A problem has cropped up on my L-7. For no reason that I can tell, the Load Capacitor is now shorting going from Dial Number 2 to 3. It never did this before, but is doing it now. The amp was used for a year or so and then sat on a shelf for a year. I decided to replace it with another lower power amp. I am getting ready to sell it, but the capacitor short prevents me from collecting a good set of data. I can loosen the four long bars on the capacitor and essentially fix the short, but that is not a proper cure. Has anyone seen this type of problem before and fixed it? I successfully repaired the power switch per the mods I found on the web, so that is working great now. If only the cap would cooperate! Roger W5RDW Murphy, Texas ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake Forum at Hamvention 2011
Fellow enthusiasts, Thanks for the fine attendance of this year's Drake Forum. It was basically standing room only. We hope that you enjoyed the session and free prizes. We realize that we broke with tradition and had a beautiful weekend without rain; sometimes change is good. Feel free to provide any feedback, questions, comments, constructive criticism, etc. so that we can benefit from it and make it better each and every year we are allowed to have the Drake Forum. We are working on making the video available for all those that were not able to attend. After editing, we will make an announcement as to the availability of the video either online, via CD/DVD, or both. Until next Hamvention, enjoy those Drakes! For the Drake Forum committee, Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Date and Time for Drake Forum @ Dayton
Yes, that is the time and location. Free door prizes, several presentations, etc. per the listing on the Hamvention website. Safe trip Drake enthusiasts -Original Message- From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net; kevin Elliott kellio...@qwest.net Sent: Mon, May 16, 2011 9:51 pm Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Date and Time for Drake Forum @ Dayton FWIW Hamvention.org web site says Saturday Room 2 10:30-11:30 AM. 73, Ron WD8SBB ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
