Yes indeedy - that was one expensive mistake that I made! However,
experience can be a great teacher, if a little costly at times. Now I
am saving up my pennies for a replacement K2 RF board !
73 all and have a great 2007.
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
Dohn wrote:
I think part of the anxiety
I've often wondered about the pros and cons of a LPF in the PA v a BPF. Of
course the latter will be bigger, more expensive etc and probably for most
amateurs to no advantage, so, it has to be an outboard unit. It helps that
these transceivers are amateur band only, so the rx side should have
Didn't mean to stir up such a fuss. I'd never seen the back of an LCD before.
Back to soldering on the RF board.
73
jim ab3cv
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I don't want to over do this subject, but Dohn's comment is perfectly
stated and should be taken very seriously. I'm sure putting a manual
together for project as complex as the K-2 is a daunting task. In nearly
every respect, the manual is flawless. But this LCD film issue is a
troublesome
The backing film question and how to deal with it was a
matter of concern for me, too. Fortunately, I made the
correct guess ...
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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In a recent message, Jimmy Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] said
But this LCD film issue is a troublesome one for a first time
builder not familiar with these components. I spent a long time
anguishing over the question of whether to peal the back off the LCD,
and eventually made the correct
Unfortunately, I didn't. Had to purchase another one from Elecraft.
I built my K2 a long time ago (#2268) and my memory isn't all that good,
but it seems to me that the film to be removed was quite thin and clear,
like Saran Wrap. If so, what would it hurt to just leave it on?
72,
Jim
W4BQP
Test
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Help:
Geeze, I'm not even sure if I did mine right. I looked for the film and
didn't see it. In my manual I have a hand written note that says not
found at that step.
So was there no film or was I just too chicken to remove the film that
was there? How would I know?
- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100
Will someone out there PLEASE take a good photograph of the film,
half-removed.
I'll be happy to host the photo, as would Wayne/Eric, I'm sure. I have no
idea what it may or may not look like. I'm guessing it's like that
protective covering on most new electronics faceplates. Not too harmful to
Hi Everyone,
KX1 (#168) will attempt to join the ECW net on Sunday 7th Jan operating
from Park City, UT and I will be signing W7/G3XYS. I am operating from
a condo so do not know how effective it will all be on the day. I shall
also try to listen/work each day at 19:00 MT 7045Khz (0200UTC)
Hi everybody,
I did last summer a portable long wire antenna system for the KX1 and
K2 build into a chalk liner. You wont get frustated anymore because
your wire is all mixed up !! :-)) It is based on Elecraft long wire
recommandation in the KX1 manual.
Take a look, I have a few pics on
I got that one right, but made the wrong guess about the film on the
front of the LCD. I removed the polarizing strip and didn't discover
it until I got to the first test where you use the display, which was
blank, of course. I immediately ordered another one, but found the
removed
Hello,
the EUROPEAN CW ASSOCIATION
EUCW 160m contest
will take place this weekend.
Saturday from 20h00 to 23h00 GMT
Sunday from 04h00 to 07h00 GMT
Frequencies : 1810 to 1840 kHz
Mode : CW
The contest is open to participants worldwide, including SWLs.
Rules:
My K2 (5707) is now working great, including the KPA100 amplifier, after a
little set back due to a very small wire strand across a couple of connector
pins. Thanks to Gary Surrency's encouragement and advice I was able to find
and correct the problem. At one point in the process, the radio
I think the confusion arises because even the manual
seems to indicate some LCD's, which to me means
they must multiple source vendors or vendor types -
for this display. Memory (6/2006) seems to tell me
there are two (2) films - one of which, IF IT IS
THERE, should be removed. I remember, sort
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Hash: SHA1
This link might be of interest to you.
http://www.bobsamerica.com/swl
Endless data for building a receive preselector, that could
easily be bypassed on transmit. While bandpass filters maybe offer
better covenience and performance to signals
That sounds like a good idea Bernie if it's do-able. However, it's not a
big deal to write down the settings, once you've worked them out. I keep a
simple log sheet with my K2 manual that has the current settings noted.
Using pencil, it's easy to change the relevant values if I decide to change
Hi everyone,
I've had a nagging, erraatic K2 power output problem with K2 #1599 (KSB2, KNB2,
KAT100, KAT2, RX Antenna option, KAF2, KIO2), for several months. I decided
to pose this issue to all of you for your suggestions.
This rig runs barefooted all the time with Pout settings varied
Hi
Sadly it would apear that the extra current is flowing through the gate of
Q3. indicating a replacement is indeed required.
Good luck and 73,
Dave G8EGG
Hi,
I have the same problem with my XV50 that someone on 2005 wrote this
post below. Look at his message... but nobody gave an
On Fri, 5 Jan 2007, Fred (FL) wrote:
An analogy could be - if one is holding a hand grenade
in his hand, handle held tight against the body - and
someone said - IF there is a ring and pin inserted
into the grenade's handle hole, carefully place the
grenade on the table. What if there isn't?
Narrow tunable filters are amazingly simple to construct. A variable capacitor
and an inductor forming a parallel tuned circuit will do the job with good to
great selectivity depending on the Q of the inductor. If you form the inductor
with a toroid, coupling into and out of the filter is
Folks,
OK, I believe that some clarification will be forthcoming from Elecraft
about this LCD backing thing.
Yes, enough builders have had trouble with it that I have come to believe
that a diagram or photo or something similar should be added - and I think
it will be, but folks will have to
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