Crew,
I finally got around to dragging out my precision audio spectrum
analzyer to check out the 250 Hz filters. I have two K3s, one
with a single RX and one with two RS. I have 250 Hz and 400 Hz
filters in all three RX.
First, I tweaked the centering of each filter (that is, the
offset),
I got the Samlex 1235M, and have been very happy wioth it (the 35 amps
gives more than adequate headroom for the K3, without being silly). The
one drawback is the rather loud fan which comes on after heavy
transmitting, but AD5X has a modification (and an excellent review of
the PS) on his
Good Morning Jim ...
Thank you for the detailed measurements. That helps substantiate some of
the word-of-mouth on the forum.
I have done no measurements, but do have a 400 Hz filter both in my main RX
and in the sub. My main interest is CW contesting and I have found them
more than adequate
FWIW - I have the 5-pole 500 and the 5-pole 200 in my K3 and I find that
they cover all contest conditions thus far.
I have not felt that I needed any additional filtering at all under any
circumstances and I rarely use the 200.
When things are light - I switch to the 1kHz or even the 2.1
Astron RS-35M
Linear (no noise) with meter. Last 12V supply you will
need. Build an Anderson supply cable. Use a Red-Dee 2
Connect 8 way Anderson distribution
block
http://www.reddee2.com/
Much less expensive than the others and they work well.
73
K1NR
K2 Sn 6K
On Thu,
There is a mod for the Astron to set it up to float charge the battery
with a little cut to the PCB trace and a 10K resistor.
I have my shack setup with four 55Ah SLAs in parallel to the Astron. We
ran my K3 on FD with a single 55Ah SLA and made around 80 or possibly 100+
QSOs at 100W until I
As someone who mainly operates during CW and RTTY contests, I draw a
slightly different conclusion from Craig's and Jim's. In the absence of
a true 270 Hz roofing filter, the existing 250 Hz filter appears to be
the best roofing filter option on offer for RTTY contest use. Therefore,
while I
Understood. My poorly described point was that the signal strength as
reported by the s-meter may not provide a good description of the signal
strength you heard which may be influenced by the ?bandwidth? of the
signal passing through the meter. Readability can be influenced by
factors other
You may also want to look at the solid-state PS from http://Power-werx.com
model=SS-30.
I picked up one in a raffle and it powers the K3 just fine with a very
small footprint, two power poles in the front and a pair of terminals in
the back.
I have not tried to use it to float charge a battery and
On Thu, 15 Jul 2010 21:32:08 -0400, Steve Ellington wrote:
Is anyone using full time battery power and trickle charging?
Sure -- since about 2004, I've run all the gear in my shack from a big
12V deep discharge battery that is float-charged by a $10 dollar no-
name supply that I bought at a
While I can't disagree with the recommendation for a linear
supply (I have an Astron RS-35A for each K3), I recommend
avoiding the PowerPole distribution blocks and would power
station accessories - particularly any accessory that touches
the audio - in the shack from a SEPARATE supply.
Sharing
Sharing a single power supply between the transmitter and
accessories is a very good way to create RFI (even with
a dummy load) due to the pin 1 problem in nearly every
amateur rig ever built.
I completely agree with Joe, but I'm guilty of using a common supply for the
K3 and switching-type
Does anyone have a frequency response plot for the 200 Hz 5-pole filter,
similar to the 8-pole plots on the Elecraft web site?
-
73, Stan - KR7C
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/250-Hz-and-400-Hz-Filter-Measurements-tp5300671p5302721.html
Sent from the
This does not exactly address your question, but I am using a JTPS 35 BCM with
a
marine type pseudo deep cycle battery. The K3 runs at 13.8V from the power
supply when the power is on and the battery is trickle charged. When the power
drops the JTPS switches to the battery and supplies
VE3KI wrote:
As someone who mainly operates during CW and RTTY contests, I
draw a slightly different conclusion from Craig's and Jim's.
In the absence of a true 270 Hz roofing filter, the existing
250 Hz filter appears to be the best roofing filter option
on offer for RTTY contest use.
In my radio I have the 400 set as 450 Hz, and I have the 250 set at
350 Hz, well aware of how close they are. I use the 350 setting for
running when the stuff above or below starts to infringe and the
difference between the two. Pulling in the roofing filter against a
9+30 signal just above or
Rich,
Usually, the s-meter samples the signal at the final IF so most of
the IF filtering will reject signals off-frequency. Since normally
this is done before the detector stage, audio bandwidth
characteristics (what the equalizers affect) are not involved. But I
must disclaim knowing
Several people asked me to relay my findings because they had similar
problems.
As usual Elecraft support was very quick to respond, but nothing turned
up to be wrong on my end, so far as I (and they) can tell. The support
rep said, Normally, the max levels at the LINE IN and LINE OUT are
I would agree with Wayne.
My prime use of my K3/10 is not HF, but with transverters on VHF and
up, typically weak-signal CW. I ordered my K3/10 with the 2.8 and
400-Hz 8-pole filters as a good overall approach. I added 13-KHz for
VHF-FM and occasional BC/SW AM using the gen coverage option
Why not just tighten the DSP on the 450 Hz filter instead of kicking in
the 250 Hz filter? It's just as easy to do for when that occasional
S9+30 signal pops up nearby, and at both 30db down and 60 db down you'd
have exactly the same performance.
I happen to have the 250 Hz filter, but
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 14:38:24 -0400, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
Each to his own, just don't start a ban the 250 campaign.
Both you and Ed raise good points. No intent there -- I agree that
the so-called 250 Hz filter is slightly more useful than the 400
Hz. My real objective is to get Inrad to
Guy,
Each to his own, just don't start a ban the 250 campaign. I know a
lot of contest operators using the 400/250 8 pole combo in the
manner I described.
I don't see anyone starting a band the 250 Hz campaign. I do see
a campaign for INRAD to be HONEST in their marketing and label the
Jim,
There's something different about the K3 Sub-RX, and the Roofing
filters seem to fall apart below about -25dB. Makes a guy wonder
what's going on!
I would bet the subreceiver has excess gain in the IF and you're
seeing amplified IF noise (particularly since the bandwidth is
about 1
I agree that a narrower 8-pole filter would be very useful.
Meanwhile, those who are interested in a very narrow CW/DATA crystal
filter might want to consider our 5-pole model. This is one of the
filters Sherwood (an independent reviewer) used during his K3 receiver
testing. See the second
RF Gain calibration has separate calibrations for main and sub. It's a DSP
computation, and the K3 Utility has code that invokes these DSP computations in
main and then sub The wizard has more pages if you have a sub installed
Dick, K6KR
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 16, 2010, at 1:07 PM, Joe
Wayne Burdick wrote:
It *is* difficult to build very narrow 8-pole filters with low loss.
That's one reason Elecraft offers a 5-pole, 200-Hz unit.
5 poles is entirely adequate at these narrow widths. Our 2-kHz IMD
dynamic range using the 200-Hz filter is outstanding.
Of course it is; but this
Looking forward to seeing you all at Boxborough !
On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 13:19:31 -0700
Lisa Jones - Elecraft Sales sa...@elecraft.com wrote:
You can help Elecraft support your local hamfest, spread
the word
about Elecraft products, and have a lot of fun in the
process.
Elecraft attends
Hi Gang -
I'm building my 2nd K2 and am at the point of Alignment and Test, Part II.
All of the tests and alignment steps through the VCO alignment have been
completed successfully. Everything has been right in the center of the
expected parameters. Then I got to the BFO test. I'm getting a
First the good news. The receiver seems to be working well, even transmit
power is
at a full 100 watts (for a few seconds). Then output drops quickly
to 50 watts. Thats the bad news.
I can set the power knob for output from 110 down to QRP power, and the
first
few seconds of transmission are
I have to second EXTREME QRM.
One of the poison backlashes of really good antennas that have all
that wunnerful transmit gain, is that it works REALLY WELL on receive.
I have heard 9+30, 9+35, 9+40 and 9+45 signals on a calibrated K3. I
have NO idea how they are doing that, or what magical
This may be coals to Newcastle for many on the list, but I did some
crude experimenting with my KX-1 and the Norcal Doublet antenna
yesterday out on the back deck. I was bopping back and forth between no
ATU and a ZM-2 tuner and the ATU + BL2 combination.
Based SWR readings from the KX-1, the
It sounds like half of your PA shuts down somewhere close to the final
stage transistors. Could it be a bad soldered connection somewhere
which loses connection after brief warm-up? Or a partially stripped
wire in one of symmetric transformers? I'd start with checking all the
connections around PA
The main reason why most devices take DC in rather than bringing in
direct AC is because they can pass all the safety work on to the brick
manufacturer and it saves them a lot of money in the regulatory end.
~Brett (N7MG)
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 9:08 AM, Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net wrote:
Out of curiosity, is it only happening with power set to 10 watts?
(If it is happening in QRP mode as well something must be wrong with
your main RF board and its PA, but if it's only happening in QRO mode
it's the KPA100 at fault. I think.)
On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Alexey Kats
I have just finished the installation of my kat2 I got at Dayton. I am seeing
a
high current warning for any band I use above 2 watts. I tried the other
antenna position and noticed it resulted in a different swr. I changed my
ground and that didn't improve the high current warning as I
I did not know about the Power-werx SS-30DV. I will look into this one as
well.I
would very much like a switching supply. Because I don't have a normal Ham
shack. I use my home office as the radio room with not much room for radio's.
My concern for any Switching supply is the RFI noice that
Ken,
Did you obtain a good frequency reading when you did the PLL Reference
Oscillator test back on page 36? If so, check the probe again by
putting the probe into either TP3 or TP1. If you see a valid frequency
displayed, your probe is OK.
The most common problem builders have are
Dennis,
Such a problem is usually caused be a poor solder connection somewhere.
The challenge is to find where.
You indicated this problem occurs on SSB. What about CW? Does it do
the same thing? How about when you do a TUNE?
If the problem occurs during a TUNE, then it will be easy to find
Paul,
Not quite enough information yet to give you a positive answer.
Are you using the KAT2 in the ATU CAL menu setting? If not, what do you
have connected to the ANT jack(s) - hopefully a dummy load. If it is
other than a dummy load, what happens with a dummy load attached?
Did you obtain a
Chris,
You say, not much room - how about a linear supply on the floor under
the desk? It does not take up much space there. None of my power
supplies occupy desk space.
73,
Don W3FPR
Chris Hembree wrote:
I did not know about the Power-werx SS-30DV. I will look into this one as
well.I
KPA100 and Rev. A to B upgrades built, installed and tested by W3FPR.
K2 (SN 2744) filters aligned by W3FPR.
Has KSB2, KNB2 modules and K2/10 cover w/speaker for easy conversion back to
10w/QRP.
Firmware Rev. 2.04P and IOC 1.09
All manuals, documentation, reciepts, pwr cord and I/O cable.
My concern for any Switching supply is the RFI noice that the radio will
pick up
from the power supply. Looking at the SEC 1235m, I was reading that it has
a
build in RFI filter. Plus I like the AD5X mod to slow down the fan. And
the
Alinco DM-340 MVT has a knob to change the freq. of
Anyone?
On Jul 10, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Gary Dezern wrote:
I just installed the DVR module in my K3, and I have a question on how to use
it:
I like leaving the AF REC turned on full time, as I find it very useful to
instant reply a call sign or something else significant
I also
I don't think there is currently a way to do this. Your best bet is to
email Wayne and ask that it be added to the list.
~Brett (N7MG)
On Fri, 2010-07-16 at 20:41 -0400, Gary Dezern wrote:
Anyone?
On Jul 10, 2010, at 4:05 PM, Gary Dezern wrote:
I just installed the DVR module in my K3,
I bought a PowerWerx SS-30 at Dayton this year and used it at Field Day. It
powered my K3 for the entire 24 hours without any problem. No RF noise
detected. The fan noise is noticeable but not with headphones. Several people
commented on it's small size. Now I use it in the shack as my main
On Jul 16, 2010, at 5:35 PM, Tom W8JI wrote:
My concern for any Switching supply is the RFI noice that the
radio will
pick up
from the power supply. Looking at the SEC 1235m, I was reading
that it has
a
build in RFI filter. Plus I like the AD5X mod to slow down the
fan. And
the
Don et all,
I've had a dummy load connected and still get a high current message. With the
same dummy load, the ATU struggles to find a match for ant1, however for ant2
it
finds a match with out issues.For my null, I got 006.
This evening I'm going to go back and redo the CALn setting.
Very good Point..
What switching supply's are you using?
Thanks
Chris
From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
To: Chris Hembree w7...@yahoo.com; Larry 'Rebar' Rebarchik - N6CCH
re...@hamilton.com; n...@contesting.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010
Paul,
If you got a null reading of 006, there is no sense in re-doing it -
that is sufficiently low.
Do the procedures below in the order listed. Stop when one does not
produce the expected result. Each step depends on the one prior to it.
Put the KAT2 in CALn, CAL P or CAL S and then remove
I'm doing the happy dance today. Thanks to Elecraft and this great reflector,
K2 #6318 is alive and the smoke is still in after the first two 20m qsos. I
will do some more fine tuning later. For now I want to bask in the warmth of
success, and get used to all the new buttons and functions.
Congratulations, Mark. It is a great feeling to get it all together and on
the air.
Chuck NN7U
I would encourage all who are considering building an Elecraft kit to go get
started. The product and support is great. If a dunderhead like me can do
it, so can you.
Don,
I followed your steps outlined and it looks good. The issue could be me
trusting my watt meter. I think it's time I invested in a new watt meter.
Tomorrow I hope to spend some time testing it on the air.
Thank you again for your help.
Paul
k4pml
Put the KAT2 in CALn, CAL P or CAL S
52 matches
Mail list logo
