Tom,
Leave the backing on the diffuser where it is. The protective film is
extremely thin. But it is mostly likely there.
Good luck,
Doug -- K0DXV
Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
Working on building my K2. So far the instructions have been great. I do have
a couple concenrs about the LCD and
Long ago Ten-Tec made a model 405 amplifier. It could take 5 watts in
and produce 50 watts out. There are also some Tokyo Highpower amps
around that people have bought directly from Japan. You could also
arrange to buy one directly from the company. They technically aren't
legal because
the firmware could determine when it was connected to the KPA-100/KAT-100 or
not and return control to the KAT-2. (Sorry Wayne g.)
I dont think the KPA-100 is more expensive than a Tokyo amp either.
73,
Joe N9JR
- Original Message
From: Doug Person [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Fred (FL) [EMAIL
When comparing prices on the 2SC1969 final transistors (Elecraft's price
is good), I found that RF Parts sells matched sets at a bit of a
premium. I was wondering if there is any advantage to matched pairs,
or, why is it that Elecraft doesn't use matched sets of 2SC1969's ?
73, Doug --
I really have to agree with this. I would really love to have the W1
configured to fit in a K1 enclosure. I had contemplated buying one but
the lack of an available enclosure stopped me. Also, the board layout
just doesn't lend itself to an easy custom enclosure. I think
configuring the led
Scott,
I asked the same question. In th parts list it shows the 612 as an
alternate. They are functionally equivalent.
73, Doug -- K0DXV
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It's me again!
Have another dumb question, but I don't have any way of checking.
On assembling the RF board on my K2, the
I'm looking at a Tektronix 2213A Dual Trace 60MHz scope. Its going for
$150 on ebay. Its a nice compact unit. Anyone familiar with this
unit? I know there were many recommendations to go with 100MHz. But
most anything in good shape in that range is a little outside my budget.
Any
This is interesting. If these are the same blue plastic trimmers as
used on the K2, I put the smaller side on the flat side of the outline
because it looked more like the outline that way. The ceramic trimmers
are round on the big side and flat on the small side. The plastic
trimmers are
I have no formal electronics training. just what I learned along the way
as a ham for 45 years. I am interesting in learning about and how to
use oscilloscopes. I would like to learn how to trace and debug digital
as well as analog radio circuits.
I'm have an old Elenco 1251 dual-trace
One thing that I'm finding a problem is I'm running through all the
voltage checks in the receiver. They're all really low. But other than
the one reference to the BFO possibly being set incorrectly, (its not)
there is not one hint anywhere as to what the cause might be. So, I
have an
I recently took down a monster beam. Its performance was not much
better than my collection of dipoles - mainly due to its low height of
25 feet. It was mounted on a short tower on top of my one-story
garage. I couldn't leave that short tower empty for the winter. I have
built and used
Hi Don and all,
As stated in a previous note, my K2 is finished and working but I am not
getting full output. With power set to max I get 9 to 10 watts on 80 to
20, 6 watts on 15 and 3.5 watts on 12 and 10.
I went through the Transmit Mixer, Buffer, Band-Pass Filter, T-R
Switch
Interesting idea. I think I have one of those speakers. I'm going to
try mounting it in a small metal utility box that, with rubber feet,
should be about the same height as the KX-1. If I can get the phone
plug mounted in the right place it would plug right in. Conceivable to
even put an
I have completed Transmitter alignment. With the power set to two watts
- I get 2 watts or better on all bands except 17 where I get only .5
watts out regardless of the power setting.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug -- K0DXV
___
Elecraft
Hi Don,
I found the problem. and you were right - it was the bandpass filter.
I had C220 and C221 reversed. After a bit of fooling around and
realigning, 17 is OK.
What I now have is generally low output. About 9 watts 80 through 20, 6
watts on 15 and only 3.5 on 12 and 10.
Any
significantly less than the expected value listed. If you need
assistance with this signal tracing procedure, just ask and we can provide
more details.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
From: Doug Person [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2006 6:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED
To solder PL-259's I use a propane torch. I am able to get the body hot
enough quickly enough to flow the solder without over heating the coax.
I use fairly thick solder. I am able to completely fill the solder
holes which helps to ward off moisture getting in. Some coax has a low
melting
Usually disabling the built-in sound system in a PC is simple. You go
into the BIOS configuration and select disable in the list of devices.
Do this first, then plug-in your soundcard and you shouldn't have any
problems.
I do disagree with the statement that most built-in sound systems are
The Hakko 808 is a superb tool. If you plan to do a lot of building and
especially modifying - it is a worthwhile investment. Saves a lot of
wear and tear on the boards and greatly reduces your own stress when
attempting to pry loose an IC. It is expensive, but consider your
monetary
John,
There are finer tips for the Hakko 808. The A1003 tip is much smaller
(about half the diameter) than the standard one supplied.I have
rarely had to pull out the role of Chem-wick to get a component out -
but it happens occasionally.
http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko808.html#nozzles
Don - I wasn't able to find the A1394 tip at your suggested link. I
even used their Quick Search with no joy. I think I could use one of
those tips, too.
73, Doug -- K0DXV
Don Wilhelm wrote:
John,
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Type: text/plain;
Experimental Methods in RF Design is an excellent starting place. The book
is very well done.
Doug -- KØDXV
Mike Markowski wrote:
Hi all,
I'm an EE but with little RF design background - I've spent most of my career so
far doing digital design software development. So while I remember
My new K2 is well underway - Any mods that I should consider before
getting too far in? I'm ok with 2.4khz ssb bandwidth. To me, that's
perfect. I will add the ssb adapter and eventually the KPA100.
tnx es 73, Doug -- KØDXV
___
Elecraft mailing
I understood the markings. I just had misgivings about the equivalence
of the plastic blue caps and the disc ceramic NPO types that I am more
familiar with. I do find the near microscopic print on these little
caps to be quite a challenge - even with a large magnifying glass. I
can hardly
Everybody needs one of these little dodads with the two alligator clips
mounted on ball joints. Radio Shack used to have them. I have two and
use them constantly. That's how I did my probes. I also use it to hold
a string of solder. This way, I can hold the board and iron to the
solder
I'm I correct in that no component is installed at C44 on the K-2
control board?
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All - Thanks for the fast responses. Its not mentioned in the manual
until everything else is complete. It would be helpful to have this in
the steps where the caps are being installed so I'm not reading back
trying to decide if I missed something. 5837's controller board is now
complete and
KX-1 # 1632 Fired up for the first time today and made an immediate
contact on 20. Sounds excellent. I especially like the keyer. It
seems oddly easier to send with than my other rigs; has a nice rhythm to
it. This kit went together very smoothly. I enjoyed building it so
much that I
Hi Folks,
I'm building a KX-1. I just completed Assembly Part II. Unfortunately,
I can't perform Alignment and Test - Part II because my kit was short
the two little 5-20 pf trimmers. While I'm waiting for these parts to
arrive, does anyone think there would be any issues with completing
Hi Don,
Thanks for your input. I guess I'm pretty confident. I built K2 #1920
with all the accessories as well as a K1. I've learned to be extremely
careful. I was just wondering if any of the tests and alignment
procedures were depending on the remaining parts not being installed yet.
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