Hello Don,
Thanks for your reply. After setting the ATU to CALP 10 and 12m are still
dead, the other bands are fine. I do not have the 100W option installed.
Ed
--
View this message in context:
I have had my K2 (7109) for 3 years now and I have noticed something about it
when it gets cold out. Every year when the temperature falls I lose 10 and
12 meter capability. I have read the posts on this forum with little
success in resolving this issue. My K2 sits next to an upstairs window, I
Problem solved. I did some reading on antennas and come up with a simple
solution on the Lo P problem I was having. So I took my K2 parts bag and
pulled out some toriods I did not use and made what I think would be called
an RF choke.
Since I have added this to my ladder line feed point on my
I would also like to add my thanks. Don made the difference on both of my
Elecraft projects, a KX1 and a K2/10. His experience guided me through a
problem on my K2 and helped me fix it. He also did a great job aligning my
K2. I always get good audio from my signal reports.
73's and thanks
My 2 cents,
As a relatively new ham lacking any real world skills with regards to making
antenna's, the G5RV has worked for me. I am very limited in time, I am not
normally home more than 10 days a month so my spare time is limited. But I
still have some time to enjoy the hobby and personally
Boeing aircraft provides 110volts but the cycles are 400, not the standard
60. My question is can charging a cellphone or camera battery at the higher
cycle cause harm to the battery?
73, Ed
k3env
--
View this message in context:
Thanks guys for your response to my Really OT question. The reason I asked
on this forum is because this is where the experts are, not at the Verizon
store. Every time I have asked this question at Verizon I get a blank stare
which pretty much tells me all I need to know.
Sorry for the waste of
Hello,
I'm taking my K2 on it's first camping trip over the holiday. I will be in
Yosemite National Park around 8400'. I will be call CQ from there on the
QRP freq's so I hope that I can add some new call signs to my log book.
I will be there until the 8th and calling in the afternoons and
Hello,
Recently I have had the need to run windows on my MAC. I'm using Parallels
to run Windows 7. I have been told that I do not need Anti Virus software
on the windows side since I already use it on the MAC side. Does anyone
have any thoughts on this?
73, Ed
K3ENV
--
View this message in
Page 8 of the manual states, Set the K2's internal voltmeter switch, S1 ( on
the control board ) to the 12v position. S1 is actually on the RF board. I
have looked at the parts list and schematic pages for the control board and
have not found another S1 switch.
Is this in reference to the main
Good morning,
Well I just finished hanging my new G5RV yesterday and I have already had
some impressive results when comparing my long wire to the G5RV. After I
first connected the antenna to my K2 (7109 ) I thought something was wrong.
Then I figured out the I'm not hearing the noise that the
Hello Ron,
Here's my two cents. I have been using a K2 at 10 watts. I know that's just
a bit above QRP technically but I have had some great results. I'm using a
long wire antenna so far and getting ready to hang the new G5RV when I get
home, but depending on conditions I have been able to reach
Hello Don,
Thanks for your advice. One thing I have noticed is that when I have the Lo
P on 10 and 12m, if I go to 15m and cycle through the inductors and
capacitors in the ATU menu it solves the problem. Go figure.
So thanks again, and when it dries out and warms up a little I might get
Hello,
Once again I'm getting a Lo P message when I try to tune on 10 and 12
meters. Last month all was well but after coming home this month and
selecting 12 meters I noticed it was quite, not the s meter reading I
expected, 10 meters was also quite. I tried tuning, using AUTO and ALT, and
got
Some how I think I solved this issue. What I did was I selected the
individual inductors and capacitors in the ATU menu and tuned each one on 10
meters. Now 10 and 12 meters are loud with good power on the bands.
73's
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in context:
Hello David,
Great news on your K2. I just finished mine a couple of months ago with a
couple of minor problems which I needed help getting fixed. I just got it
back earlier this month and have been having a lot of fun with this great
little rig. I was tuning around 10 meters and heard a
Hello all,
After nearly 8 months of work I finally got on the air this morning. I made
2 SSB contactas on 40m. The first was with WB3FIE and he gave me a 57 and
then on the same qso I got another report from VA3ZW, he gave me a 56
report. Both stations said the audio quality was very good and
Hello,
When I adjust C55 I initially get a high current message that last for a
second, followed by a fluctuating power indication. The lowest I can adjust
c55 down to is 1.7 volts.
So what have I missed. Thanks in advance.
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in context:
Thanks Don I will start looking into those areas.
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683673.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Don
I was using a cable to connect my Dummy load to the tuner. So I decided to
see if maybe the connection could be bad so I connected the tuner directly
to the #1 antenna jack and that was it. Now I have a steady power ready of
3.0 volts.
Thanks again.
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in
Don,
I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6
installed. So should I remove it and start over?
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6683878.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list
Okay Don thanks again. I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I
think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I
continue. But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month.
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in context:
Thanks Don,
I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use
the DMM probes?
73,
Ed ke7hga
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684038.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
Don,
When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0
volts. When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts. I have also noticed
that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and
other times I see 2.4f 0.0r. So what should I be looking at to adjust
Sorry Don,
I was using the DMM leads and not the RF probe to read the voltage on the
DL1 measuring 6 volts.
Thanks again Don,
Ed
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-Bridge-null-adjustment-tp6683608p6684272.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive
Don,
Thanks for the information. I will follow your advice. I know the wire
antenna is not the best but for the time being it's all I can come up with.
I also think I will go ahead and install the KAT2 since it is complete and
ready for installation and would solve some of my impedance issues.
Hello,
I think I might have a problem with K2 7109. I arranged to call another K2
owner on 40 meters and was not heard, additionally I did not receive his
call. So I'm not sure if it was propagation or my radio. What makes me
wonder is I have called on the SKCC Elmer frequencies with no
Hello Mike,
The station I was trying to contact is 425 miles to the Northwest of my
location. 40m propagation seemed good, I was receiving other stations on
40m. I'm using a long wire for now and was putting 3 watts out according to
the power reading.
I don't have a watt meter but MFJ has a QRP
Don,
I do have the Elecraft dummy load so I will look into that. I will also try
going to 10 watts and work down.
I don't have an antenna analyzer at this time, sounds like something else I
will need to pick up.
I'm using a 32' wire with a 16' counterpose which is hanging out an upstairs
Guy
Thanks for the advice. I think I'm getting out okay. I hooked up my
MFJ-267 Watt meter dummy load and when I have the power set to 10 watts I'm
getting close to 10 watts forward but the reflected is about 5 so that tells
me the antenna is the issue. I have a KAT2 ready to install so I
Hello,
I'm confused on the construction of J8. First the manual states there are
12 mini crimp pins including 2 spares. J8 has ten pins but I only have 4
wires that come the Control board minus the bare lead. So am I inserting
the crimp pins with the wires in one side of J8 and inserting empty
Don,
I understand now, thanks.
Ed
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAT2-J8-tp788p871.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
Have you considered shipping the battery ahead of time if that is an option.
That way it can be waiting for you at your destination when you get there
and avoid the stress of losing it to airport security. That is assuming
it's not lost in shipping.
73, Ed
KE7HGA
--
View this message in
All,
Except for the speaker and adding a couple of options I purchased for my K2
I'm proud to say I have finally finished my K2. I would like say thanks to
Don W3FPR, Gary AB7MY, Richard AD7FZ and the reflector for all the help I
received in finishing my radio, it would never have come together
Hello Don,
I have checked the values of c60 and 61 from L30, as well as c96, c95, c94,
c93, c92 and c88 from U6 and they are all correct. D21 and D22 are both
V149SL.
I don't know if you remember but while I was working on phase 2 I had an
issue with a mix varactor diodes but that was in the
All,
I have mad it to page 64. When I check the volts at R30 using my DMM I get
8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the front of the
radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards adjacent the side panel.
It did drop to 7.5v but at that reading the L30 was at what
a capacitor problem in the VFO Range Select area (ask about
that problem specifically).
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
All,
I have mad it to page 64. When I check the volts at R30 using my
DMM I get
8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the
front
, check the ends of each band to
be certain the voltage is within range for all bands. If it is not, you
may have a capacitor problem in the VFO Range Select area (ask about
that problem specifically).
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
All,
I have mad it to page 64
that problem specifically).
73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/4/2011 10:09 PM, EMD wrote:
All,
I have mad it to page 64. When I check the volts at R30 using my
DMM I get
8 volts. I assume that the left side of R30 would be having the
front of the
radio facing me so the lead I tested was towards
All
I just finished the 2nd phase of the build. I plugged the power supply in,
turned it on and failed to smell smoke so I opened my eyes and there it was
waiting for me to do something, wow.
The 4MHz Oscillator calibration came in at 12099.08 kHz. The PLL Reference
oscillator range test came
I hope your having as much fun building your as I am building mine. I will
have to put it away for a while. I will be working and not home until the
5th of next month so you will be well ahead of me by then, so post your
progress and I will do the same.
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in
All
I have identified all the inductors from the parts list with the exception
of 2. The first is what I believe to be L5. L5, I think, is a green bodied
inductor that looks like brown brown black. So I'm wondering if the brown
is actually orange due to the printing on a green back ground.
Thanks for the info Wayne. As you know it's a lot easier to put the correct
part in the first time. ;-)
73, Ed
KE7HGA
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Inductor-identification-question-tp6340883p6341003.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
I have noticed that I seem to have 2 different types of the 1SV149 Varactor
Diodes. I have a mix of V1498M and a slightly thicker bodied V149SL. Is
there a difference in these 2 components? I have already installed a mix.
I think what happened is when I ordered my K2 I got an email indicating
Okay I'm getting ready to install the PLL upgrade board and it looks to me
like this has the potential of being a problem. I have test fit the
Thermistor PC board and I can see why the instructions call for the board to
lean slightly towards U6. The problem I see is the position of RFC14 and
the
I think I created a solder bridge between the 1/8W resistor RB and the 3rd
pad under the resistor, on the PLL upgrade board. I have tried to wick up
the excess solder but I still cannot determine if this is okay or that the 2
pads should be separate.
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in
Well I'm happy to say that the initial power on test went well. I have only
finished up to page 44 where it says RF Probe assembly, but I was happy to
see that it everything worked as advertised. I have to say that I'm
delighted that I did not smell smoke or had any other problems sending me to
Hello all,
I have a couple of questions on the K2 front panel assembly . First, is it
necessary to solder the clips that hold the potentiometers to the PC board.
Second, I'm getting ready to install J1 and I noticed that pin 1 on the PC
board has a round pad, but I did not notice any difference
Hello
My K2 kit seems to missing the spacers used to install the diffuser. I have
looked through the part bags but have not found them. Any ideas where they
might be hiding?
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in context:
I found them:) so never mind but thanks anyhow.
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Front-Panel-question-tp6095423p6095761.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Thanks Don,
I figured I was missing something somewhere so I went back to the part of
the manual where I used that spacing tool and figured it out from there. I
do have another question on the diffuser. I did not remove backing on
either side of the it. It looks like the LCD is placed on top
I have another question on the K2 front panel. The manual states not to
remove the backing from either side of the diffuser. So I take it the LCD
is placed on top of the backing material of the diffuser since there is no
mention of removing the material.
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in
Hello again group,
I started the Front Board last night. I have the Rework Eliminator Mic
Adapter and I was wondering when it is installed in the front panel board.
I searched the K2 section but did not find anything that answers my
question. It looks like it should be installed in this
I have some questions on the results of my check.
U6 pin 29 should read between 70 and 90k, I'm reading 96k.
U6 pin 30 should read between 70 and 90k, I'm reading 97k.
U8 pin 15 and 16 should read 100k, I'm not getting a reading at all so I'm
wondering if this is the way my DMM reads infinity.
into the foam.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/8/2011 2:21 PM, EMD wrote:
Elecrafters,
Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today. I'm going to take my time and
follow as
best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you
on the
reflector, starting with a parts inventory.
I was thinking
:21 AM, EMD wrote:
Elecrafters,
Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today. I'm going to take my time and
follow as
best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you
on the
reflector, starting with a parts inventory.
I was thinking of using the little plastic left over
I made it to page 15 of the manual and am installing the capacitors on the
Control Board. My question is the capacitor C4, 0.47 (474), if I have
identified it correctly, has lead spacing that is wider than the PCB pattern
and is a bit larger then any other non- Electrolytic capacitors. It is
Elecrafters,
Okay K2 #7109 was delivered today. I'm going to take my time and follow as
best I can all the excellent advice I have received from many of you on the
reflector, starting with a parts inventory.
I was thinking of using the little plastic left over containers that I have
been
Well I have officially taken the plunge and ordered a K2 today. After much
consideration about how to configure my K2 I decided that I will make a QRP
version. With an SSB, DSP, internal tuner options. I'm not sure what else
I might need. I was thinking about going the 100 watt option but I
Hello Geoff,
Thanks! I have been putting a K2 off for some time now but I am glad
that I have ordered one and am looking forward to getting started. It
will not be an elaborate set up as far as antenna's go due to local
restrictions but I really like the idea of be portable anyway.
73, Ed
I have decided that I would like to build a QRP K2. With that in mind these
are the options that I would like to include in order:
KSB2,KAT2,KDSP2,K160RX, and the KIO2. I would like to include the KSB2 and
the KAT2 in the initial build. I have limited experience but with the
reflectors help
Found the answer on page 14 of the K2 reflector sight so I have got the
answer to my question.
Thanks
Ed
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Build-ideas-and-suggestions-tp5621026p5621039.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Hello,
My KX1 has been having problems getting a low SWR. At home I had a long
wire strung out the up stairs window getting 1.2:1 to 1.6:1. I took the
same wire with me on a trip and now I cannot get the Antenna Tuner to tune.
I'm getting 9.9:1 on both 20 and 40m. I'm in Anchorage Alaska and
Hello fellow Elecrafters,
I was able to finish building my KX1 with your your help! After spending
much more time off the air than I planned I think I'm ready to give CW a
try. For more months than I would care to admit I have been learning CW
using lcwo, and my MFJ morse tutor. It took me a
Okay let me try that again.
The link to the website is http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/index.html
All About Circuits
73,
Ed KE7HGA
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Electronics-website-tp5226497p5228139.html
Sent from the [OT] mailing list archive
Hello all,
For those of you who struggle with learning electronic theory like I do, I
found a great website that does not assume you already have an extensive
back ground in electronics.
http://http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/index.html
Wow Monty sounds like a lot of fun in more ways than one.
73, Ed KE7HGA
Monty Shultes wrote:
Hi all -
Just returned from a trip of a lifetime cruise in the eastern
Mediterranean Sea. On 3 sea days, with permission from the engineer, I
operated from a rear deck with my KX1 and a 25-foot
Howdy,
After a long break, the summer, I finally finished my KX1 #2140. Two rookie
mistakes but I finally figured it out.
I installed the KXAT1 tuner and had a question on the output power indicated
on the RF scale. When I am running on batteries the power output on 20m is
2 bars or if I
around (but a small number who are
unforgiving as well - ignore them, for they should be ignored).
73,
Don W3FPR
EMD wrote:
Howdy,
After a long break, the summer, I finally finished my KX1 #2140.
Two rookie
mistakes but I finally figured it out.
I installed the KXAT1 tuner
Okay I'll be giving it a try. I have never sent cw or used the paddle
style keyer so it should be fun.
73, Ed KE7HGA
On Oct 31, 2009, at 6:38 PM, 4Z5TO [via Elecraft] wrote:
EMD wrote:
...on the air soon, so I can frustrate everyone with my poor morse.
Another learning process.
73
from the bottom of my radio. No big deal it's just not as sleek and
pretty.
Thanks to all who took the time to give me help with the trouble I had.
Going to be a long cold fall and winter so maybe a K2 will get me through
it. Well see what Santa brings.
73, Ed KE7HGA
EMD wrote:
Well
Well after getting discouraged I decided to take some time off from my KX1
project. After about 3 months I decided to get back at at with a little
encouragement from Gary.
I was having trouble with the receiver alignment, no signal. I decided to
go to the manual and review each step of the
Hi Mike,
That sounds great. I have never sent cw before, but I have been
trying to prepare. Now I really need to get up to speed since my
radio is nearing completion.
Thanks Mike,
Ed Doyle KE7HGA Colora MD
On Oct 15, 2009, at 8:18 PM, Mike Scott-7 (via Nabble) wrote:
Ed, welcome to
All,
I have completed Phase II of construction and have a couple of questions. But
first, I have the RF Gain set to full clockwise, Filter full CCW and AF Gain
at about the 12 O'clock position. I have a 28' piece wireman 541 wire
connected to the red side and a 16' piece of the same wire
found a peak on both bands, all should be OK.
I would initially run with the Bandwidth control at 1/3 to 1/2
clockwise
rotation rather than full CCW. The RF Gain at full CW and the AF gain
sufficiently advanced to hear something.
EMD wrote:
All,
I have completed Phase II
Well I finished phase II and I have a problem with the resistance checks with
U6. Pin 3 should be 10k but I am reading .1 to .2 ohms. The next thing on
Pins 1 and 2 are showing 0.F M ohm which I think indicates infinite
resistance so I think thats okay? I checked for a cold solder joint and it
from your
particular DMM, but you may want to consult the instruction sheet for
that DMM.
Infinite resistance should appear the same as the reading wihich you
obtain with both probes out in thin air, touching nothing.
73,
Don W3FPR
EMD wrote:
Well I finished phase II and I have a problem
of
the iron under the magnifier you will find it much less stressful
making the solder connections.
I bought a low cost lighted magnifier from Staples for around $30.
It was worth every penny.
Fred, KC9QQ
EMD wrote:
Hello Elecrafters,
Well I will start building my KX1 in a few
the phase one alignment and there was no where to plug power in. Oops! So
it looks like I need to be just a little more careful with phase two.
Ed
EMD wrote:
Hi Don,
That's a great idea with L6 the less rework I have to do only increases my
chances of success.
The soldering station I
invisible
edge on both the component lead and the solder pad. Insufficient heat
and the solder may melt, but not flow resulting in a bad connection, and
excess solder can look like a solid connection, but mask a poorly heated
solder joint.
73,
Don W3FPR
73,
Don W3FPR
EMD wrote:
Hello Elecrafters
Hello Elecrafters,
Well I will start building my KX1 in a few days. I have been getting the
required equipment and being a first time builder I feel a little over
whelmed but reading all the the hints and tips on the reflector has made it
a lot easier. So far I have what I think will get me
81 matches
Mail list logo