Hi Russ,
Those light blue caps should be marked "u1J100" and if they are, those
are 0.1uf (104) caps. They would be for C58 and C59. I use a lighted,
magnifying lamp here. That is the only way I can read those things ;-)
73,
Dave, W8FGU
On 1/31/2020 11:01:45 AM, "kg7vq01" wrote:
During
During the inventory of the kit, I found no 104 capacitors but found two small
plastic cubes with lead and vary faint markinig i can't make out. Logic says
that, as everyhing else is identified, these must be C58 & 59. However as logic
is rarely relevent these days I thought I should ask. Oh,
Thanks, Don.
The module is working, i hear FT-8 (sigh). Now to the alignment of the
module.
Am 03.11.18 um 15:42 schrieb Don Wilhelm:
Martin,
No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was
already correct.
--
73, Martin
Ohne CW ist es nur CB...
Martin,
No re-alignment of the KAT2 wattmeter should be necessary if it was
already correct.
On the base K2, do check the voltage at the left end of R30 to make sure
it is between 1.0 volts and 7.0 volts (1.5 to 6.5 volts is better) at
the low frequency and high frequency ends of your
Elecrafters,
i'm in the process of installing the 60m module. To make it work, i also
need to upgrade the KAT2 firmware from 1.06 to 1.07. I just plugged the
chip in and now wonder if i need to perform an alignment for the new
firmware to work properly.
Anyone?
--
73, Martin
Ohne CW ist es
Don,
Thanks for the info.
--mark/ae0mm
‐‐‐ Original Message ‐‐‐
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 12:19 PM, Don Wilhelm
wrote:
> Mark,
>
> That is not abnormal.
>
> It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different
> than for other bands, and yours is not out of
Mark,
That is not abnormal.
It is normal for the current required for one band to be a bit different
than for other bands, and yours is not out of line. Yes, the KAT2 draws
a bit more current than without it - that is true for any option.
Move the CAL CUR setting up to 3.50 Amps.
73,
Don
Don,
I've done the bridge null adjustment several times. The red c55 trimmer
capacitor is very touchy. Using a ceramic screwdriver, I'm able to get the
reading in the 7 to 10 range, but after a few moments, or hours, it will read
30 and sometimes up to 90 at 7100KHz into a dummy load on 5w
Mark,
First, set the CAL CUR in the K2 menu to 3.50 - and also make certain
the power supply voltage as displayed on the K2 display is not dropping
significantly during a TUNE. If it drops more than 1 volt suspect your
power supply or the power cable. A low supply voltage can cause the K2
Just installed the KAT2 in a newly assembled K2. At power levels greater than
8.0 watts, the K2 was displaying the high current warning. The KAT2 power
calibration was calibrated by measuring voltage with the K2's RF probe at the
feed point to a dummy load.
I removed the KAT2 and remeasured
Bob,
The '--' in the ATU menu means that the KAT2 firmware is not being seen
by the K2 MCU.
Take a good look at the point where the control cable is attached to the
KAT2 control board - look for broken wires.
Do the same for the header that plugs to K2 Control Board P4.
Make certain the
After doing a re-alignment of my K2 ser. #3218 yesterday I started to play
on the air and suddenly my KAT2 would no longer tune to my buddipole
antenna. In fact, the ATU menu is now inaccessible. When entering the menu
system and selecting the ATU submenu, the only display is "--" while
rotating
Tim,
When ANT2 is selected, do you hear signals if the feedline is connected
to ANT1? Are they at the same level as when ANT1 is selected?
If the answer is YES to both questions, then the most likely thing is
that relay K18 is not switching. If the signals are reduced when ANT2
is selected,
I just discovered that I have a problem with my new (to me) K2. It appears
that the antenna switch is stuck on antenna 1. Switching between Ant 1 and
Antenna 2 with the feedline on Ant 1 doesn't change a thing in terms of
receive signals. The ANT2 indicator turns on when pressing the ANT 1/2 but
I recently installed the KAT2 in my K2. Using a 20 meter inverted V dipole,
it was working great with no problems. Then I tried it out on a end fed
antenna and it also tuned it up. Then I switched back to my Inverted V and
every time I try to tune it up I get LO P on the display. I looked it up
Aaron,
The KAT2 needs only 2 watts to TUNE - in fact the firmware limits the
power to 2 watts during a TUNE.
What was the SWR reported when you tried to tune the end-fed antenna?
My guess is that the SWR was high.
The most common cause of LO P message is that the K2 PA cannot deliver 2
watts
Does anyone have a KAT2 auto tuner for the K2 for sale?
Martin, K5FLU
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I’m reposting this in case you missed it. I have a KAT2 for sale from the SK
estate. $113. Picture upon request.
73,
Carl Yaffey K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com
http://www.bluesswing.com
After the dust settled from the SK estate sales, I found one last item: a KAT2
antenna tuner.
I have no details or documents. Picture on request.
$113.00 includes shipping.
Carl Yaffey K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
Hi,
I am in the process of installing the KAT2 and need some clarification
on the bridge null adjustment procedure. Following the instructions, I
set the slot of C55 parallel to the K2 rear panel. After activating
TUNE I can adjust it down to about 002 or so. Then if I put it back
into
Mike,
You might try the bridge null a few times and take the average
position. It is quite 'touchy', and yes it may vary a bit from trial to
trial. As noted in the manual, the reading at the null depends on stray
capacitance in the KAT2 - so if you moved anything it will change a bit,
I've been working very slowly on a KAT2, and everything was going well and
checking out correctly.
All the relays are working, and I finally arrived at the C55 Bridge Null
Adjustment step.
When I put the K2 into TUNE, I got a Hi Curr on the panel, and no output
power.
Not only that, but an
Tyler,
Your results are unusual.
Remove the KAT2. Does the base K2 still work OK? If not, something has
happened in the meantime.
It would seem that you do not have a good path between the K2 and the
antenna (or perhaps a short to ground).
Check the KAT2 carefully for solder bridges.
On the KAT2 a number of toroid cores are prepared and installed.
L1 and L2 are to be prepared with an extremely exact length of solid hookup
wire.
The assembly instruction mentions that toroid cores remain somewhat loose
within the winding.
That is to put it mildly. They act like a baby's
Hans,
Yes, you may shorten the wire, it is the number of turns that count, not
the wire length.
However, it is usually easier to just spread the turns out until it
tightens up a bit.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/10/2013 5:27 PM, Hans Elfelt Bonnesen wrote:
On the KAT2 a number of toroid cores are
Gil,
When you say you completed your KAT2 build, did you complete all of the
final calibration steps, specifically the bridge null adjustment (p. 16 of
the KAT2 manual) and the power calibration adjustment (p. 17)? I would be
surprised if you could make those adjustments successfully and yet
Hello,
I completed my K2 ATU, and everything checked out until the power-on test. With
output power set at 5W, I only get 500mW out..
Where would I look first, T1 maybe?
Thanks,
Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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Got it. Thanks to Doug, W4DAS, Gary Surrency at Elecraft and my trusty
magnifying glass everything is working well.
Chuck
NN7U
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What turned out to be the trouble?
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Operator error(s). A relay in backwards, and a solder bridge that I cleaned
up too well, removing the trace beneath it. Replaced the solder bridge and
all was well.
_
From: AF6NI [via Elecraft] [mailto:ml-node+s365791n755950...@n2.nabble.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 6:28 PM
To:
I'm installing the KAT2 and am having trouble getting C55 to null (as so many
have.) I've rewound T1, checked for solder bridges, errors in component
placement, orientation or value and every thing else I can find to try from
gleaning these archives. The only anomaly I can find so far is that
I somehow lost two emails to the ether so I can't do a direct reply, but
thanks for the response. Yes, I'm sure it's pin 7 that has the 4.6 volts on
it. Pin 8 has the expected 6 volts, and all the other voltages listed in
the manual check out.
NN7U
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Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to
know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am
getting as the book says 1.1 SWR and on some bands 1.5so all is well I
would assume?
Mike
VE3WDM
--
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Mike,
Yes, 1.5 is quite OK - your original email said 5:1 and that must have
been a typo.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/12/2012 5:54 AM, VE3WDM wrote:
Good morning Don, thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Good to
know the C55 cal is in spec. As for the SWR sorry for the confusion but I am
Mike,
The 009 to 010 on the balance is OK.
Under what conditions do you read an SWR of 5:1? Is that after a TUNE
has been completed? Or is that reading the SWR on your antenna with the
ATU menu set to CAL S?
What that statement in the manual is trying to say is that an SWR of 1.2
or even
I have completed the KAT2 tuner and adjusted C55 but could only get it down to
between 010 - 009. I did notice that when I got a reading to 010 any further
adjustment would result in a large jump. I would then have to take time and
fine adjust C55 to 010 and maybe hit 009. I continued on with
Ariel,
Check the grounds. What you are saying is that when the chassis ground
is connected to the base K2 your KAT2 is not recognized.
Make certain the ground side of the connectors (KAT2 input coax and
speaker wire) are on the correct side.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/22/2011 7:34 PM, Ariel Jacala
Elecrafters
I have been using the KPA100 for a while and the K2 QRP top has been sitting
quietly in its box for a few months. Last night I decided to reconnect it for
potential portable use and the the K2 does not recognize its presence- (i.e.
the menus for the KAT2 do not show up). I
Thanks to all who responded, I now have my KAT2.
73 Bob w7wo
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Hi,
Does anyone have a KAT2 and KIO2 that they might part with? Please
respond off line
Bob w7wo
b...@kalkwarf.com
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Help:
Yup ... I was wrong again, but the trouble is I can't figure out why. I
mean, it's easy to verify the cloverleaf pattern with EZNEC and I have
done so, but I know that I have modeled something similar with an
off-center feed in the past and gotten an end-fire pattern. As soon as
I figure
I've gotten to the point, that before I say anything about a model, I
actually run it and play with it, to make sure I haven't forgotten
something, or remembered something wrong.
As to that particular antenna a center fed half wave antenna is troublesome.
The better version of that if one wants
Sorry to interject, but a fullwave fed at the 25% point has a clover leaf
pattern. It only has the two halfwaves in phase colinear behavior when fed
very near the center. Even fed at 45% it has a significant cloverleaf lobe
and a NULL in the center Easy to verify with any modeling program. 73,
Another simple end fed antenna was described by W2FRH in QST, March 2011, A
Near End-Fed Antenna... . I just returned from a week at the Outer Banks and
used this antenna with my K2 working DX from Europe and South America, plus
several states. No trees near the beach house so it was a sloper
Steve Yates, AA5TB, has a very informative web page on EFHW antennas and how to
build a parallel tuned circuit with a link coupled feed at the radio end to
reduce the 1800 to 5000 ohm impedance to a 50 ohm non-reactive load. He has
examples of both QRP and QRO versions of the circuit. I built
And for those with more money than brains (that would be me) you can
purchase an end fed halfwave antenna from the Emergency Radio Club of
Hawaii for $42. I bought one and it works great with the entire
Elecraft family. Great to have a simple yet efficient portable antenna
that fits into a
Stan, that's not a true half wave radiator on most bands. They suggest a
wire length of 20 or 30 feet, which will be efficient on 12 through 6 meters
where it's at least 1/2 wavelength long, but on the lower frequency bands
it's just a short random length wire with an auto-transformer to assist
Ron, the one I purchased for $42 is for 20 meters and came with a 33
foot radiator. A mathematical half wave at 14 MHz would work out to
32.8 feet. It did not come with a counterpoise nor was one recommended.
It loaded up nicely for me as received. I later tried a short
counterpoise and did
33 feet is a 1/2 wave on 20 meters all right. I was using the figures given in
the homebrew article that suggested a much shorter wire.
Yes, Wayne came up with the 28' radiator with 33'counerpoise as a combination
that the little ATU in the KX1 could handle on all the bands it covers. The KX1
Just speculating -- I bet a half-wavelength wire in inverted-L configuration
fed at the
base with a parallel-tuned circuit would work well. The high-current part of
the vertical
piece would be at the top, there would be plenty of current in the horizontal
part too,
and very little local
...@riousa.com
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA
Shepardph...@riousa.com
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:lnejjggbopigkcikmckdeegoiaaa.ph...@riousa.com
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like
Actually Dave, a full wavelength wire will have a 4 leaf clover
pattern - that is neither broadside to the antenna, nor off the ends.
Check out the pattern for a 1 wavelength long wire in the ARRL Antenna
Book. The maximum radiation is about 28 degrees from the wire - the
radiation from the
I believe you must get into several wavelengths before you get significant
end directivity from a long wire. My reference says that the angle of the
main lobe to the antenna is about 55 degrees when the wire is a wavelength
long, compared to 90 degrees at 1/2 wavelength. It takes a wire more than
Yes, Don ... you are totally correct. For some reason I was thinking
about a full wave antenna fed at the 25% point (I have built such
antennas before), which looks like two colinear half waves fed out of
phase. The current phasing along the antenna would indeed be much
different and give a
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one or
two 16' counterpoise wires. It seems to work well for what it is and 10W.
I just built and installed the KAT2 ATU into the K2 to lighten my pack
Phillip Shepard wrote:
I put it in ALT mode, and it spent a
long time searching before it got down to between 3:1 and 4:1, depending
on
the 20m frequency. I added about 2 of wire to the antenna, and the tuer
got down to about 2:1 to 2.5:1. I added another foot of wire (now 36'),
and
it
The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would
theoretically present a few thousand ohms to your feedline, giving you
an SWR of several tens to one.
Consider this it is likely that the tuner with the greater loss
will more easily give you a match to a difficult
...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Gilbert
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
The simple answer to your question is no. An end fed halfwave would
theoretically present a few
Phil,
As others have responded, attempting to tune the end of a half-wave wire
is beyond the range of most tuners, including the KAT2.
Your added wire provided a compromise length, because the feedpoint
impedance was reduced.
Because the impedance of the EFHW is high, my favorite tuning
-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long
...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Phillip Shepard
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 4:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT2 with EFHW antenna
I have been using my K2 with an MFJ tuner to feed an end fed halfwave wire
for portable use (like SOTA). The 20m antenna is 33' long and I use one
Hello,
When I adjust C55 I initially get a high current message that last for a
second, followed by a fluctuating power indication. The lowest I can adjust
c55 down to is 1.7 volts.
So what have I missed. Thanks in advance.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
The most common cause is T1 connected incorrectly or having
insufficiently stripped and tinned leads, so check that first.
The HiCur message may indicate a bad or incorrectly oriented diode.
Check all the components in the wattmeter area for good soldering and
correct values T1, D1, D2,
Thanks Don I will start looking into those areas.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Don
I was using a cable to connect my Dummy load to the tuner. So I decided to
see if maybe the connection could be bad so I connected the tuner directly
to the #1 antenna jack and that was it. Now I have a steady power ready of
3.0 volts.
Thanks again.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Don,
I just realized that I had done the Bridge null adjustment with R6
installed. So should I remove it and start over?
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
No, R6 will not influence the bridge null. You are instructed to leave
it out until you check the voltage at U4 pin 1, during receive - it
should be zero - but you can also check that with R6 in. The zero
voltage in receive is the important one to the rest of the K2. If you
do detect
Okay Don thanks again. I did not indicate any voltage during receive. I
think I'm going to wait until I get some sort of watt meter before I
continue. But I'm off to work so that will have to wait until next month.
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
Do I recall that you have the Elecraft DL1? If so, you have the perfect
item for calibrating the power - in fact, better than most wattmeters.
Just measure the DC voltage at the diode and calculate the power - set
the forward voltage pot so the K2 indicates that same power, and job done.
Thanks Don,
I will give that a try. Should I use the RF probe that I made or just use
the DMM probes?
73,
Ed ke7hga
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Ed,
With the Elecraft DL1, just use the DMM probes.
If you do not have the DL1, connect the RF Probe across the dummy load
(use a Tee adapter if you do not have direct access to the dummy load
terminals) - but keep the power to 5 watts or less to keep from zapping
the diode in the RF probe.
Ed,
I would also recommend doing the power calibration on 40 meters - it is
a good compromise. There \is some variation in the response of the
diodes with respect to frequency, and also, if you are using an
oscilloscope to measure the RF voltage, the bandwidth of the 'scope can
cause some
Don,
When I use the DMM and measure the Voltage across I am only getting 6.0
volts. When I plug that into P=V*V/R I get .72volts. I have also noticed
that when I push TUNE I sometime see a fluctuating power indication and
other times I see 2.4f 0.0r. So what should I be looking at to adjust
Ed,
Not enough information, so I am forced to make assumptions.
Are you using the RF probe to measure the RF voltage across the dummy
load? If so, 6 volts yields 0.72 watts as you stated, but if you have
the Elecraft DL1 and measure 6 volts, the power is 1.49 watts.
Adjust R1 to agree with
Sorry Don,
I was using the DMM leads and not the RF probe to read the voltage on the
DL1 measuring 6 volts.
Thanks again Don,
Ed
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Hello,
I'm confused on the construction of J8. First the manual states there are
12 mini crimp pins including 2 spares. J8 has ten pins but I only have 4
wires that come the Control board minus the bare lead. So am I inserting
the crimp pins with the wires in one side of J8 and inserting empty
The instructions tell you to insert all of the pins so the connector
will be more difficult to remove (so it will not fall off by itself). I
do not consider that a problem, if you put in only the 4 pins which have
wires attached, the force required to insert the connector (and remove
it) is
Don,
I understand now, thanks.
Ed
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Hi All,
I consider myself to be a pretty experienced kit builder. Normally I follow the
instructions step-by-step, but sometimes I deviate if it will make things go
smoother for me.
I am working on the KAT2 right now. I am starting the L-C board. The manual
says to install all the relays
David,
Just follow the instructions in order and all will be well. You must
flush cut the relay leads after soldering, and that will not be easy if
you mount the capacitors first.
When it comes to the capacitors that fit above the relays, yes, you will
trim the leads before soldering as
Hi,
I need some help. I just finished KAT2 and got a lot of problems. Befor
I explain,
I get the message E000 in the menu, what does it mean?
Is there a problem with the MCU?
73 Peter, DF8BB
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Peter,
I forget what the E000 error really means, but those kind of errors come
from the option firmware.
If you have a 'scope with a 10x probe, you can check for oscillation at
the resonator pins (or U1 pins 13 and 14).
Check your cable connections and your soldering for potential problems,
The KAT2 has been spoken for.
Jim Douglas K2ZF
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Hello all,
I have completed the assembly of my kat2 and am at the testing phase. The
question is: I hear relay clicking when going thru the display settings for
L0-L8, C0-C8, N1 N2, but NOT for
CALn,CALP, CALS, AUTO, ALT and POUT. Is this normal?
Thanks in advance
73
Dan
Daniel Grizzard
Extra
Dan,
That is quite normal.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/9/2011 2:58 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote:
Hello all,
I have completed the assembly of my kat2 and am at the testing phase. The
question is: I hear relay clicking when going thru the display settings for
L0-L8, C0-C8, N1 N2, but NOT for
Hello all,
I just started the inventory of parts for my kat2 and all is going well until I
got to the 102 caps. For the life of me I cannot determine the two smaller
ones!
I have lined them up with a ruler on a marble top table and looked at them from
all angles. All 26 appear to be the same
A suggestion from QST I have used with success is to photograph the
parts with a digital camera on it's highest resolution setting and
enlarge them on the computer.
Just be sure not to get too close or your lens may not be able to
focus. If you have a macro setting, that can help too. Don't worry
Dan,
The trimmer pots are OK, use the 150k value.
The capacitors are a different matter, there are two that must fit
between the processor socket and the header to the L/C board. The .001
uF capacitors seem to have become fatter over the years due to
manufacturing changes. Check to see if
I have my K2 up and running nicely now for several months and now want to build
and install my ssb and automatic tuner modules. Any suggestions which to do
first?
I don't want to have to remove one to install the other.
73
Dan
Daniel Grizzard
Extra Class
af4lb
Dan,
Not to worry, those options are independent of each other. Do them in
whichever order suits your fancy.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/30/2010 8:28 PM, Dan Grizzard wrote:
I have my K2 up and running nicely now for several months and now want to
build
and install my ssb and automatic tuner
Don,
thank you - everything looks fine. The tuner seems to work.
73! de Werner OE9FWV
Don Wilhelm schrieb am 25 Nov 2010 um 19:59:
Werner,
You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and
above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect
I am in the course of finishing the KAT2 assembly.
I did the C55 adjustment like discribed on page 16:
Press T U N E button and release it when you see the display change.
Adjust C55 for an indication as close as
possible to 0 0 0 . Tap or hold T U N E again to cancel the C A L n
display and
Werner,
You have obtained a better than normal adjustment - normally 008 and
above is considered OK. I believe there is a statement to that effect
somewhere in the manual.
I would guess that the 2.4 volts is OK. That may change when you finish
the power calibration. Connect R6 (47 ohms
In case anyone in the future has the same question, here is a follow-up for the
archive:
According to Gary at Elecraft error code 202 in the KAT2 submenu is a normal
result code. So all is well.
73,
Paul - N8XMS
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Elecraft mailing
My recently installed KAT2 indicates an error code of 202. The manual says
that
error codes for the ATU range from 0 to 199. Does an error code of 202
indicate
anything?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
73,
Paul - N8XMS
__
Paul,
To the best of my knowledge, E202 would be something that the KAT100
might display, but not the KAT2. Perhaps someone got the firmware
stickers wrong.
I think you should send a note to supp...@elecraft.com.
73,
Don W3FPR
Paul Huff wrote:
My recently installed KAT2 indicates an error
Please note that I also receive this error code on my KAT2 (202).
I have successfully gone through all of the testing steps to ensure that
each inductive and capacitive component is available and can be switched
into and out of the circuit. It is my impression, however, that the tuner
unit
Says caps C45 C60 are smaller. The caps I rcvd are all the same size.
(26 pcs) Do I need to send for smaller caps? tnx
George/W2BPI
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Help:
George,
The problem was the thickness of the capacitors. The normal .001 uF
capacitors from the manufacturer got thicker at some point and the new
capacitors were too thick to physically fit on the Control Board between
the U1 socket and the J4 header.
The last KAT2 that I built had 2 extra
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