The following answered my similar question: The version I received was
5.53, and the monitor tone is back.
George, W3HBM
I believe this is corrected in the latest field-test firmware release (5.53)
which I'll send you.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Sep 8, 2016, at 8:34 AM, Classe
Jerry
Spot on. Thank you for your advice to this new ham.
73 Gerald KC6CNN
> On Jul 19, 2016, at 1:46 PM, Jerry Moore wrote:
>
> I will throw my view into the mix.
>
> As a new Ham operator you have no idea what you want to do in the hobby
> other than EVERYTHING!!!
I will throw my view into the mix.
As a new Ham operator you have no idea what you want to do in the hobby
other than EVERYTHING!!!
In addition to wanting to do everything we're also most often budget limited
to some extent.
Challenge: Weigh the desire to do everything with the most cost
Reuben,
I differ with you on the statement that the "K2 isn't exactly cut out
for data modes".
If you activate the RTTY filter set and adjust the filters for that
mode, then you have a good transceiver for data modes. The RTTY mode
allows you to set the compression (SSBC menu parameter)
I would guess my experience is pretty much typical for most hams
(with variance in details):
I started out building three tube regen receiver when I was 13 years
old. Cost me $19.95 in 1957 (took six months saving to accumulate
that much). I didn't have a solder iron so my Dad bought me a Wen
There's a cool little knob on the K3s that allows you to turn the power
DOWN to 10 W.
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389
On 7/17/2016 11:37 PM, Enzo Adrian-Reyes wrote:
> Was thinking of a K3S, although I have a KX3, I am quite surprised as to
> how well
Was thinking of a K3S, although I have a KX3, I am quite surprised as to
how well it performs, the radio is simply amazing, and I am only allowed
10W since I am on the foundation license.
Thinking rather than the 100W amp spend the money on a K3S/10 and slowly
upgrade.
Regards
On Mon, Jul 18,
I believe you have the KAF2, the audio filter.
Likely it will do well enough for you -- and it
cannot be used with the KDPS2, it's one or the other.
It discontinued, may be due to some part obsolescence.
73, Phil W7OX
On 7/17/16 7:26 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
Interesting, but the KDSP2 appears
Reuben,
I cannot find it on the webpage either, but I do not know why.
You might try phoning the sales office instead of ordering on-line.
The KDSP2 is an enhancement to the K2 - the basic K2 is just fine for
general use even without the KDSP2.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/17/2016 10:26 PM, Reuben
Hi there!
A few thoughts my experience, in case they help.
I am a relatively recent ham, having been first licensed in 2008. At
that time, I bought a lot of appliances: FT-450, remote auto tuners,
ARRL stealth antenna books. It wasn't too long before I realized that
I was not achieving my own
Interesting, but the KDSP2 appears to have disappeared on the order page.
Did that part become discontinued for one reason or another?
On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 8:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Reuben,
>
> Since you do not yet have a license, and you *do* have a K2/10, you
>
Reuben,
Since you do not yet have a license, and you *do* have a K2/10, you
already have one of the best receivers on the market. Of course, the
K3S and the KX3 are a bit better, but the improvement is marginal.
Use the K2 and concentrate on getting your license.
Once you have your license
t: Sunday, July 17, 2016 2:34 PM
To: Ian <iann...@gmail.com>
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S
No !!! Bad sales pitch - How about spend $3k now - or spend $2k now and $3k
(when you realised you made a mistake) later….. see spending $3k now much m
I hear ya... I was in the middle of studying for the general last. The
tech is.. well, too easy (IMO), so I was going to sit for both tech and
general IF I can actually make it up to St. Louis before sunrise, or if I
can schmooze a few of the local VEs to do a one-off.
As to my K2, I thought
Listen to Phil, Reuben... wise man; good advice.
Seriously, get your license... you're missing so much without it...
Just ain't that hard... Study up for all three and take them all in one
day...
Had I NOT been in the middle of a gall bladder attack on test day, I
would have passed all three
Reuben,
Since you say you have the K2, I'd get your
license before adding any new rig and use the K2
to start out. Even without the amp you can run 10
Watts or so and get your feet wet.
After you've operated for a while you'll have a
better idea of what you want.
OTOH, if you plan to
No!
Get the radio you want and learn to make it work for you. Buying a $2K radio
and then buying $4-5K radio just adds $2K to the price and wastes maybe 2
years in the process.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Jul 17, 2016, at 2:24 PM, Ian
On 07/17/2016 12:30 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
If one can hear why an R390
is a great RX of the era, a low end Icom will not satisfy. For someone
who can hear R390 tubes getting soupy, a Flex 6700, an Icom 7851 and a
K3 do things right that CAN be heard if you know what to listen for.
Flex
If I had a dollar for every time I dreamed beyond my present reach,
I'd be rich now. Dreaming out loud on a ham reflector before license
obtained is just a modern retread of an ancient pastime.
For someone who has high end boat anchor RX in his house, a rig with
an inferior RX will be readily
meh. Buy the HF tool and if you use it and it breaks, buy the Snap-On variant.
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay
> Autery
> Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2016 2:58 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: R
Roger that! Buy the best tool you can afford and never have to buy
again is what my Dad taught me 40+ years ago
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389
On 7/17/2016 1:34 PM, a45wg wrote:
> No !!! Bad sales pitch - How about spend $3k now - or spend $2k now
No !!! Bad sales pitch - How about spend $3k now - or spend $2k now and $3k
(when you realised you made a mistake) later….. see spending $3k now much much
cheaper…..
73, tim - A45WG
> On 17 Jul 2016, at 22:24, Ian wrote:
>
> Consider getting a lesser radio first and using
Consider getting a lesser radio first and using that for a while. Then
you'll really appreciate what a step (leap) up the K3S is over other radios.
73, Ian N8IK
On Sun, Jul 17, 2016 at 1:58 PM, Jim Brown
wrote:
> On Sun,7/17/2016 10:02 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:
>
>>
On Sun,7/17/2016 10:02 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:
I*will* get my ticket, it's just a matter of when, so if I'm in for a
penny on a receiver,
So work on that FIRST. At this point, the cart is well before the horse.
Hopefully, while studying for your license, you'll learn more about
radio, and be
Figure out your MAX budget for initial purchase...
Are you comfortable with a no solder assembly?
Buy a K3s and a P3...
Using your budget as a guide, put everything you can in the K3s first
(except the sub-receiver... that can wait)
Just use the 2.7 5 pole stock filter for now...
Add a 6kHz AM
I want to express my thanks to all who replied to my original question; my
apologies in the slow response.. It's been a nutty two weeks and I wanted
to take a bit of time to mull things over and do some more research. With
that in mind... my head hurts . I've read reviews, looked at specs, and
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help sell me on the K3S
Even Rob will tell you that one number does not a radio make.
Personally, for the most bang for the buck, I would be looking at one of the
many non-S K3s that guys like me who have upgraded to a K3S are now offering
for
sale. I'm
Even Rob will tell you that one number does not a radio make.
Personally, for the most bang for the buck, I would be looking at one of the
many non-S K3s that guys like me who have upgraded to a K3S are now offering for
sale. I'm allowing mine to gather dust on the floor, because I've found
Reuben,
If you do not need Tx - why not just go for a high end SDR Rx. Lots of
really good products out there at the moment - and being SDR easy to upgrade
with software etc. You will need to budget for a decent computer and maybe an
external sound card - but also an option to consider
Reuben,
I think Rob Sherwood answers this question best with his receiver
ratings. Google Sherwood labs.
Dick, n0ce
On 7/3/2016 4:44 PM, Reuben Popp wrote:
Hey everyone, happy early 4th to you and yours!
I'm looking for a bit on input here. I've had my K2 now for quite some
time now; built
The K3S is a top of the line, world class radio. If you can
afford it, it will not disappoint you, even if you only use if
for listening.
If you want a cheaper, simpler radio, the Elecraft KX3 rates
nearly as high as the K3S on receive[1] for less money and
complexity. It is much more
I just bought K3S in last 30 days. So new I don't know how to use all
features.
K2 100, transverters, KX3, PX3, KPA100, KX1, K1,all in boxes and cases now.
Just my KX2 is still is in use because I have not figured out how to carry
the K3S around.
Leroy AB7CE
-Original Message-
Roger,
It may be that the driver IC for the LEDs has been damaged. There is 5
volts on the LEDs, but the driver IC has to bring the other lead near
zero volts to light the LED.
If you did not work on an anti-static mat when doing the connector
change, that may be the blame.
But just the
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Please help support this email list:
K3 I presume?
Make sure the front panel is plugged into the RF board correctly (i.e.,
not shifted over to one side).
73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 23 Jun 2016 19:59, Roger D Johnson wrote:
I just finished the connector mod and replaced some of the
I have the K3s and I use the USB interface from the KIO3B (Audio/Digital
I/O). This interface acts like a USB to-Serial Adapter USB Audio Codec and
supplies a microphone input, speaker output and a USB Serial Port (i.e.
COM1)… making the process quite simple... needing only the USB cable. So if
On Wed,2/3/2016 6:25 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Re: SB-45
I bought one, took it out of the box, clamped it my head and I do mean
"clamped", took it off after a few minutes and put it back in the
box. It went back to Amazon. If I want my head squeezed I can go back
to my David Clark H10-30
It just could be a mike issue that EQ won't correct. Otherwise, the
values should show positive or + amounts starting with about 200 Hz.
You might also check to see the previous owner had not set other values.
73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S s/n 10163
On 2/3/2016 12:09 AM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft
Steve,
Since this K3 is 'new to you', you can't know how the prior owner has
set things.
Check the settings in the TX EQ first. I would suggest that you
initially set all bands to flat. For communications quality, normally
you want to reduce the first 2 bands to the lowest settings and the
On Wed,2/3/2016 10:39 AM, Mel Farrer wrote:
With your audio expertise, suggest a good microphone for him to use
also. Cheers.
Sure. It's awfully hard to beat the Yamaha CM500 or the Koss SB-45. They
sound really good (both mic and earphones), are very comfortable to
wear, and are very
I'm thoroughly convinced that I'm as bright as I'm ever gonna get. :-)
I followed Jim's advice for both RX and TX EQ after wasting a whole
bunch of time trying to figure it out myself [see first sentence above].
I use a Heil Proset with the iC element from Elecraft, and in rare
forays into
On Wed,2/3/2016 10:21 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
I seem to remember that the 3-6 dB boost in the top band was to
correct for rolloff in analog receive filters. I have no idea where I
read that, but it was probably back in the 1970’s.
It's compensating for both TX and RX filters. The first
Re: SB-45
I bought one, took it out of the box, clamped it my head and I do mean
"clamped", took it off after a few minutes and put it back in the box. It went
back to Amazon. If I want my head squeezed I can go back to my David Clark
H10-30 headset. For now I'll stick with my second
Jim,
With your audio expertise, suggest a good microphone for him to use also.
Cheers.
Mel, K6KBE
From: Jim Brown <j...@audiosystemsgroup.com>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 3, 2016 10:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] help with improving transmit eq
On Tue,2/2/2016 10:09 PM, Steve Wilson via Elecraft wrote:
If I need to increase the low and mid, does this mean I should increase the
values of the first half of the 8 settings and decrease the second half..or
something similar?
You've gotten pretty good advice, but I'll try to summarize
I seem to remember that the 3-6 dB boost in the top band was to correct for
rolloff in analog receive filters. I have no idea where I read that, but it was
probably back in the 1970’s.
If so, it is probably rarely needed today.
wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
On Mon,12/7/2015 7:51 AM, dlrwi...@verizon.net wrote:
Previously I used this same set-up with my IC-756PRO2. The THP amp has a
variable pot on the rear panel to adjust and set ALC voltage or relay voltage?
for various radios. I don’t think that I need to readjust this with the K3, but
not
Ted,
After you get the collectors of Q7/Q8 straightened out, you might
investigate the spacing between the VFO encoder board and the Control
Board area that sits behind it. The leads on the encoder board must be
flush trimmed (really close to the board), and the area of the Control
Board
ght comes on...
>
>
> From: kevino z <balloon.experim...@outlook.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 11:43 AM
> To: James Rodenkirch
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HELP!!!
>
> it is probably best to tur
I think he was referring to the radio being off, and not the computer.
If the PTT line is being momentarily pulled to ground when the plug is
inserted, it may flicker into XMIT momentarily. Not going to hurt anything.
If it’s staying on, that’s a different story.
Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3
rch
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HELP!!!
it is probably best to turn off before connecting any cables.
even when you plug / unplug the mic cable from the KX3, you will see it go into
transmit. I believe it has to do with the plug as you are passing one of the
TRRS parts in, t
Set mic button off in the menus. Your plug is shorting the PTT contact.
wunder
K6WRU
> On Nov 21, 2015, at 10:31 AM, James Rodenkirch wrote:
>
> I am trying to set up my KX3 for JT65 operation...when ever I plug my audio
> cable from the computer into the mic input
That did it, Wunder..tnx to all that answered!!!
From: Walter underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2015 12:54 PM
To: James Rodenkirch
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] HELP!!!
Set mic button off in the
Sent from BlueMail
On Nov 7, 2015, 11:03 PM, at 11:03 PM, KC6CNN wrote:
>I am trying to create a Macro for my K3.
>It is to keep me from having to lean up and hit buttons. Man that makes
>me
>sound so lazy.
>
>I am trying to get the Text Dec THR screen to come up and
Hi
Once you see the THR screen, issuing an UP or DN or UPB on DNB should do the
trick except that it wasn't in the firmware the last I checked. However Wayne
did add some firmware commands recently. I'm not sure if these were added. They
were to my knowledge, 4 out of 5 missing commands in the
On Wed,7/1/2015 9:19 PM, jim wrote:
One evening during club meeting (alcohol was involved) a 30-06 made the pole
peg 100% defective. Power company replaced it, and the noise was gone ever
since.
I had a similar experience at an ATT Long Lines site in NorCal at which
I had an HF station
: [Elecraft] Help identifying this RFI
Thanks for the many replies. I'll try to address all of them in one
message.
First, I agree that this sounds like a powerline problem. I've seen many of
them in my 57 years of hamming. What makes this different, and the reason
for my call for advice
That appears to be exactly what was happening. I assumed that
conducted RFI is pretty well snubbed by whatever distribution
transformers were in between.
73,
matt
W6NIA
On Thu, 2 Jul 2015 09:34:28 -0700, you wrote:
On Thu,7/2/2015 7:20 AM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
In a staight line, this
On Thu,7/2/2015 7:20 AM, Matt Zilmer wrote:
In a staight line, this
transformer problem was almost 1/2 mile away, and not even on the same
distribution circuit we're on here.
Remember that power lines RADIATE. Although I have no scientific
evidence to back it up, I suspect that most noise
An arching transformer is just a spark gap transmitter with a super long
antenna attached. Much lesser setups were used decades ago and provided
global communications.
Matt Zilmer wrote:
That appears to be exactly what was happening. I assumed that
conducted RFI is pretty well snubbed by
I had a very similar problem, also (very nearly) S9. I had narrowed down
the general area, and actually found it at night. I could visibly see the
arcing from an insulator. I called the power company with the pole number,
and they fixed it 2 weeks later. Try searching at night using
100% defective. Power company replaced it, and the noise was gone ever
since.
Jim
W6AIM
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wes
(N7WS)
Sent: Wednesday, July 1, 2015 7:41 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; SADXA
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
Thanks for the many replies. I'll try to address all of them in one message.
First, I agree that this sounds like a powerline problem. I've seen many of
them in my 57 years of hamming. What makes this different, and the reason for
my call for advice, is the periodic nature of the problem.
On Wed,7/1/2015 3:31 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
I'm hoping there is some expert here that can point me in the right
direction.
It sure sounds like impulse noise, but other RFI professionals on the
list may correct me.
In general, impulse noise is best chased with an AM detector and the
highest
This sounds like power-line noise
the trick to locating it is to work upwards in frequency as you close
in on the source, I have had great success in locating power-line noise
by closing in on it on 6M in my van then finding it on 2m as you get
closer then finally on 70Cm
For 2M/7Cm I use
I have sent mine (SN # 2090) back to Elecraft twice for the same problem..
Seems like the low power devices fail.
They fixed it up and returned until the next time.
W4CCS
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Reed
Bumgarner
Sent:
1. Make sure CONFIG:KPA3 shows 'PA nor'. If not, set it to 'PA nor'.
2. If 1. doesn't work or doesn't apply, contact
k3supp...@elecraft.com.
73,
matt
W6NIA
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 10:59:19 -0500, you wrote:
Prior to running WSPR on 10 meters at 5 watts for about 30 minutes
yesterday the radio was
What is your K3 showing as the voltage when you change the DISP to read that
instead of VFO-B frequency? Low voltage would cause the current to increase to
keep the power where you set it.
On Sunday, Jan 11, 2015, at Sunday, 10:30 AM, alan geller via Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
An HPS-1a with the K3 on CW is a stretch. The HPS-1a only works well with
100w with fairly limited duty cycle transmissions and even then doing
tune-ups needs to be at about 20 watts or so. I was really interested in
the HPS-1a idea some years back for portable use, but had to give it up.
There
Well, as soon as I sent my SOS, I realized I was telling all, I was too lazy to
switch to a beefier power supply to figure that out. Our course, your
suggestion solved that issue so I am getting double slow on the neuron
pathways.The voltage went from 13.5 V to 9.5V on the 6th (set for 20WPM)
Thank to everyone who responded to my cry for help after I damaged my
computer PS. I replaced the MOVs and the fuse and it works!
I do not recommend running 120v equipment on 240v in general!
On 9/9/2014 12:38 PM, george fritkin via Elecraft wrote:
There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR. The
George: Not to put too fine a point on it but ZNRs are large and slow
moving
so they do have mechanical aspects but more to the point they do NOT
have
capacitance, save lead capacitance (a few pf),
Not true: MOVs have a self-capacitance on the order of 1000pF, which is
sometimes an advantage.
Hi,Typically a device labeled as znr is a MOV, metal oxide varistor used to
protect cir u its from excessive voltage or currents. Remove the other one, you
will probably find a marking.
73s Tom
va2fsq.com
On 9/9/14, Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com wrote:
I just did one of the dumbest things
A 'ZNR is a Zinc Oxide non-linear Resistor. It is the mechanical
equivalent of a Zener Diode. It is a bidirectional (AC) device that will
conduct when a certain level of voltage is applied across it. They don't
typically have as sharp a knee as a real Zener, but are very effective for
what
Vic:
Sorry you passed the smoke test. Your mystery components sound like transient
suppressors. They are not needed for normal operation. They are there to
suppress lightning or other power line disturbances. To find out carefully cut
out ZNR12 and clean up any ashes. Then replace the fuse and
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Took the second one out. It is labeled TVR07241, which is a 240v
varistor! I can get these to replace them.
I think this one is undamaged (at least, it isn't blown up or shorted).
I wonder if the other one was a 115V one which was only in the circuit
when the switch was set for 115. That would
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!
Took the second one out. It is labeled TVR07241, which is a 240v
varistor! I can get these to replace them.
I think this one is undamaged (at least, it isn't blown up or shorted).
I wonder if the other one was a 115V one which
Typical on these type of supplies is the voltage selector switch is
single pole which converts between being a bridge to the filter caps to
a voltage doubler configuration. So, where you should have had about
320VDC, you would be in doubler mode and gotten 640VDC (230V*1.4*2).
Protection
There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR. The electrical equivalent is back to
back Zener diodes with a capacitor. Some people call them Transzorbs or MOVs
to get by trade marks. The ZNR is a Panasonic trade mark
George, W6GF
On Tuesday, September 9, 2014 10:54 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH
@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sep 9, 2014 12:38 PM
To: Charlie T, K3ICH pin...@erols.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!
There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR. The electrical equivalent is back to
back Zener diodes with a capacitor
a Zener.
Chas
- Original Message -
From: george fritkin
To: Charlie T, K3ICH ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2014 3:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Help! Rescue me from stupid error!
There is nothing mechanical about a ZNR. The electrical equivalent
Larry,
One thing to try is to tuck the ribbon cable and speaker cable to the
KPA100 up into the space between the top of the Control Board and the
KPA100. Remove the right side panel to easily do that. The object is
to route those wires as far away from the KSB2 board as possible.
73,
Don
I have successfully un-bricked my K3.
No attempt to load 4.83 would work. Even after updating to the current version
of the utility and trying a different USB/Serial device.
However, I was able to successfully load the 4.67 firmware. After I did that, I
did a Send New Firmware to K3
Excellent! I'm very glad to hear that, Bill.
Phil W7OX
On 4/2/14, 7:34 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
I have successfully un-bricked my K3.
No attempt to load 4.83 would work. Even after updating to the current version
of the utility and trying a different USB/Serial device.
However, I was able to
PS - the specific error I get is:
“FPF Programming Failed.
“Verify file source and revision. Turn the K3 off and back on, then re-try the
firmware load.”
I’ve re-downloaded the files from Elecraft a couple of times using the K3
Utility. I’ve powered off and on many times.
Suggestions??
On
Ouch.
Maybe try deleting the firmware files from your computer and then download them
from Elecraft and try again? I think I've heard that sometimes files can get
corrupted when being downloaded.
Good luck and73,
Fred KE7X
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:
Ouch.
Maybe try deleting the firmware files from your computer and then download
them from Elecraft and try again? I think I've heard that sometimes files
can get corrupted when being downloaded.
Good luck and73,
Fred
Are you using the latest K3 utility? If not try upgrading that first.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:17 PM, Bill Coleman aa...@arrl.net wrote:
I noticed this weekend that Elecraft had updated the firmware (not beta) back
in February. So, today, I thought I would
Have you tried to re-load the last released (not
beta) version?
73, Phil W7OX
On 3/31/14, 2:33 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:
Ouch.
Maybe try deleting the firmware files from your computer and then download them
from Elecraft
Bill,
Try this - first download the latest K3 Utility and get the new firmware
files as usual (Check for New Firmware).
Then using the Advanced tab of K3 Utility, Check the DSP1 box and
click Load checked firmware.
When that completes, do the same for the FPF loading only that firmware.
Are you using a USB/Serial adapter? If you have another one of a
different type, or a real COM port, you might try them instead
73/GL,
~iain / N6ML
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Bill Coleman aa...@arrl.net wrote:
I noticed this weekend that Elecraft had updated the firmware (not
Yes, I upgraded to the latest utility after I ran into the error.
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:33 PM, Nr4c n...@widomaker.com wrote:
Are you using the latest K3 utility? If not try upgrading that first.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:17 PM, Bill Coleman
No. It wasn’t very obvious how you do that. I’ll check it out.
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:45 PM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:
Have you tried to re-load the last released (not beta) version?
73, Phil W7OX
On 3/31/14, 2:33 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2014, at 5:31 PM, Cady, Fred
Yes, if course I’m using a USB/Serial adapter. This is a MacBook, after all.
I don’t have one of a different type handy. It’s just weird that the MCU
firmware downloads 100% ok each time, but the FPF does not. Why that would be a
serial port problem is beyond me….
Unfortunately, Macs have
Hmmm ... OK Bill. Here's my experience, yours may vary for a variety of
reasons but for what it's worth:
I've never had a Mac and know nothing about them. I *have* had
occasional problems with the uploads from my Windoze XP and subsequently
Windoze 7 laptops. So far, in all cases,
One place to find old FW versions is the beta archives on your own computer.
Betas are same as released FW with same number. I think Elecraft also has old
beta FW on beta site.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
On Mar 31, 2014, at 9:51 PM, Bill Coleman aa...@arrl.net wrote:
No. It wasn’t
Dear all,
Just as a quick feedback : the Alinco DM330MVE was replaced by a much
heavier Diamond GSV-3000 today. So far the issue seems to have gone.
Last night I realised that just slightly touching the DM330MVE resulted in
a voltage drop most of over 5v ... Trying to set in manually to the
Hi Ron,
I'm glad I found your email as my K3 (#5426) has been experiencing the same
issues for a couple of days. I did not dismantle it for now to see if it's
related to the burned connector issue as I would like to try it with
another power supply first (and i need to borrow one first from
Martin,
One thing to check is the blades in the Anderson PowerPole connector at
the end of the cable.
Peer into the end of the cable - if you see the ends of two metal blades
in either side of the connector, the contact blade has not been fully
seated behind the securing spring - give it a
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