Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
The TIP GND of the K3 PLUG connects to the LEFT spkr, and the RING GND
connect to the RIGHT spkr. But the RINGs on BOTH of the INPUT jacks are
not
connected to anything.
Tom et al.
You are right. I was only thinking of how to avoid the hassle of threading
the
Thank you for the advice and wisdom always found on this Reflector. We can
each draw our own conclusions. The K-2 built in meter is probably as
accurate as the W2 at 5 watts, and the more expensive stand alone units
have little to offer me operating QRP. Those flashing lights are cool on
many of
Gilbert Cross wrote:
Gilbert Cross wrote:
K2 s/n 3346
Has the following options:
KIO2
KAT2
KSB2
K160RX
KNB2
KAF2
MH2
CW tuning indicator
T/R relay driver switching is with the same mosfet used in
the K3
For my first several toroid windings, I have used a Bic lighter flame to
burn off the coating on the wire tails, followed by a sanding with the
supplied P180 sandpaper. I noticed it can burn up the wire fast and one of
them
lost the coating up to the core. Should I recoat, especially
Hi Frank,
As mentioned elsewhere, radials are key to good performance. Verticals will
work, and sometimes not badly either, with less than optimum radials. The
key is high density under the feed point. Flashing may be a good option, a
metal roof would be great.
That being said, I know a lot of
Daniel,
A half wave end fed at 40 meters will have extraordinarily high impedance.
Shorten it and you find the KX1 will tune. The suggestion to use an antenna
analyzer may be a very good option as well. Then you will know. There
isn't enough tuning range in the tiny KX1 auto tuner. If you
Have to say I like what you did Dunc!
Elegant and sounds like it's effective to boot!
73,
Julius
Dunc Carter - W5DC wrote:
See:
http://vibrotek.com/w5dc/w5dcant.html
It's not exactly what you asked for but it might give you some useful
ideas. The WARC bands and 80 meters are not
That's one of the reasons I haven't ordered a K3 yet. I'm having fun with the
K2 and it's simple to operate. Perhaps I will end up with the K3 at some
future date but, for right now, I'm satisfied with the K2. Plus, I had the
satisfaction of building it myself. Yes, I know that you can also
Bob,
You are being too picky - the cores are not conductive. The only thing
to be careful of is shorted turns. I normally tin the leads all the way
up to the core unless there is a reason to leave an insulated lead (as
there is on the KXB3080 LPF toroid L2).
If you are using a flame, be
Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is getting a
very bad name in that country - not for their product, but because of a
business decision to have everything go through an exclusive dealer for both
sales and service. The problem (according to this operator) is that the
No Tech support? When did this happen? :)
73 Ian
--
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org
2010/1/4 Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com
Was talking with a JA operator yesterday who said that Elecraft is
Tom,
If he buys direct from Elecraft, he will have Tech Support direct from
Elecraft, so I would guess he does not know his facts.
He may not have access to tech support from the Japanese distributor,
but that is a different statement.
73,
Don W3FPR
Tom Meier wrote:
Was talking with a JA
Hi Paul,
The bandwidth and Notch should be done at the IF stage not the AF stage, I
think everyone knows this. There has never been a question of where it is
better to taylor response. Of course it's better to do these things at the IF
stage.
I am suggesting a 'cumulative' IF and AF
Hi Paul,
Yes, I would also like to see firmware RX EQ by mode, but I've been told
it's a long way down the Elecraft to-do list due to complexity. However a
software approach opens new possibilities limited only by the CAT port
speed.
By AF I mean the 50,100,200,400,800,1600,2400,3200Hz bands
Hi Paul,
The rest of my post gave reasons why K3-EZ isn't the right solution for me,
but thanks for the suggestion. In reading the content of the K3-EZ link you
gave, it says that K3-EZ doesn't work with LP-Bridge. This is also a bit of a
show stopper for me as my logging and pan adapter
On Jan 4, 2010, at 8:23 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Try the solder blob method, it is easier and more clean
I recently completed K1 #2799 and wound the 23 toroids myself. I found the
videos below from Ron to be exceptionally helpful and after a couple of trial
runs with wire not yet wound on to a
Hello all,
I hope all a very nice happy new year.
Just to inform you that my new K3 SN 3756 arrived home safely. I will
assemble it next April so another reason (first is that I am missing my
family a lot) to let time going quickly until mid April :) :) .
Best 73 to all and a nice 2010 to
Doug,
I didn't see the start of this thread, so I'm not sure what you're
seeking, but have a look at K3_EZ at:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~n2bc/SW.htm
All sorts of things you can set with it, including the equalizeers.
73, Mike NF4L
GM0ELP wrote:
Hi Paul,
Yes, I would also like to see
I finally got a chance to download and try the W1 software. I could not get
it to recognize the attached W2. The W2 Configuration utility recognizes
the W2 just fine. I released the port when closing down the W2 Utility and
then made sure the port speed was correct before launching the W1
The W2 does exactly what it is supposed to do. And it does it pretty well.
Assembly went smoothly. The problem IMHO is that it was developed by people
who know a thing or two about power measurement, accuracy, resolution,
precision and the like. For people who may not always be familiar with such
Hi everyone, this is my first post.
I also had a Japanese ham (in Japan) tell me the same story.
I found on the order page on the Elecraft site the following line:
Note: All Japan orders (except expatriate orders) must be placed through our
distributor: EDC
This sounds to me like if you're
Hi Bob,
You should be using the W2 interface software. Not W1. You can find it here:
http://www.elecraft.com/software/W2/elecraft_w2_software.htm
Regards and 73,
David, W4SMT
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Unless the situation has changed in Japan, it's customary or perhaps
required to use a import/export company/agent for sales in Japan. Some
countries make it extremely difficult for individuals to import or
export. Although my company doesn't do any business in Japan, we do
business in other
Hello Dick,
if i don`t get wrong, Wayne mentioned a new transverter module for the K3
wich offers something for the
lowfers a few weeks ago. Stay tuned !
73
Michael
PA3CW wrote:
Hello k3 Nabblers,
I was happy surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also allowed to
use 501 - 504
What I meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands
and interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to
offer one ourselves.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Jan 4, 2010, at 10:03 AM, DL5OCD wrote:
Hello Dick,
if i don`t get wrong, Wayne mentioned a new transverter
Sounds like Tokyo Hy-Power in reverse. I now get to pay dealer markup and
sales tax so my L4-B will stay in service.
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com wrote:
From: Tom Meier tomk...@gmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday,
W1HYV writes:
I have built very close to 300 K2's to date.
Given that the current serial numbers are nearing 7000, having built 300
is on the order of 3-6% of the total constructed! If a SINGLE person is
building that many and there are other people building for other hams, how
many people have
I don't know about most but I built 12 K2s beginning in early 2000 and
sold 11. Still have #5413.
73, Ken K3IU
~
On 1/4/2010 1:39 PM, Conway Yee wrote:
W1HYV writes:
Are most K2 users people who buy it prebuilt?
tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ
From: Duncan Carter d...@vibrotek.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 10:59:57 -0700
Unless the situation has changed in Japan, it's customary or perhaps
required to use a import/export company/agent for sales in Japan.
Some countries make it extremely
Thanks David. I see that my keen eye for detail is still active.
-Original Message-
From: David Fleming [mailto:df...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:53 AM
To: K5WA
Cc: Elecraft reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W1 software
Hi Bob,
You should be using the W2 interface
/elecraft
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Since the posting of the link to my K3 Speaker Splitter PC board, I
have received a number of requests (orders if you will) for PC boards.
I've been thinking about the problems some may encounter with regard
to ordering the specific parts (PCB-mount 3.5mm stereo jacks) for the
splitter, and
Tom and the List
I appreciate Tom's design and a neat PCB package, but come on folks. This is
easy to breadboard and stick in a plastic box. Go to Radio Shackbuy a
little black project box...buy some connectors. You can use 3.5 mm jacks or
RCA jacks. You can find them there to
Hello Rick,
HNY2010.
When I had output power problems at 15m, not at 20m, I increased the output
power by 'tuning' the low pass output filter (L9/L10, L11/L12), suggested by
ELECRAFT. By bringing windings together I was able to get the required
output. It does not look as nice when having the
When transmitting, there is leakage from the microphone to the speaker
(e.g., feedback).
This may be operator error (having inadvertantly pushed the wrong button at
some point during operation) or a problem with the radio and affiliated
firmware. I have atempted to read through the asorted
I do not know about the problems the excellent JA operators may have in
importing equipment from Elecraft directly but I do find this information
interesting. What I can tell you from personal experience is that many EU
hams look at prices in QST and CQ and just dream. It seems that one can
As one of the first of -many- who have managed to blow up the audio
output IC in my K3, I'm qualified to comment. (;-)
First, I'm fortunate in that I caught my failure quickly and only scorched
the board. I know of others who's boards were burned black / charred. My
event' happened early-on
push and hold the MON button. make sure it is set to= 0
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John-48 wrote:
When transmitting, there is leakage from the microphone to the speaker
(e.g., feedback).
Push and hold the MON Button, make sure it is set to =0
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I don't know about most either, but I, and our cat, built K2/100 # 3255
some years ago. Beware of cats who try to help, our Temple Cat takes an
unhealthy interest in multi pin SMDs.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
Conway Yee y...@bronze.lcs.mit.edu wrote:
Are most K2 users people who buy it prebuilt?
push and hold the MON button and make sure it is set to = 0
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Byron,
The toroids will work just fine with the outer wires not flat against
the core, but ---
Pulling on the wire is *not* the way to accomplish nice tight toroids.
The wire will break before it goes flat against the outside of the core.
The way to make nice tight turns is to use a fingertip
WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then over 5
grands in japan with that dealer EDC?
AD4C
For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com wrote:
From: Fumiaki Okushi fumi...@okushi.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft]
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That is just the same as those here in the states buying or importing
a gray market camera or other piece of electronics that the US dealers
or distributors will not support.
Should I be mad at Canon or Nikon?I don't think so.So the JA's
don't like it when the shoe is on the other foot.
GM4ESD writes:
I don't know about most either, but I, and our cat, built K2/100 # 3255
some years ago. Beware of cats who try to help, our Temple Cat takes an
unhealthy interest in multi pin SMDs.
I don't know
I'm building my K2 with two assistants...one 7 years old...one 3 years
old...
A couple of thoughts:
1) Distributor jacking up the price . . .
Heathkit did the same thing forty years ago. You had your choice of
buying direct from the factory at one price (lower), or with the
convenience of buying from a local (more or less) distributor at another
price (higher). There
I would personally prefer to buy from a local distributor, for the exact reason
you mention.
So I'm willing to pay a little extra for that convenience.
The question is how much will I (or more generally, one) be willing to pay for
the additional convenience.
With regards to ham radio equipment,
From: Bob k...@att.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 15:51:51 -0500
Should I be mad at Canon or Nikon?I don't think so.So the JA's
don't like it when the shoe is on the other foot.
Have you actually done price comparison?
Yaesu, Kenwood, ICOM
From: Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Disgrunteled Japanese
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)
WOW ! Hard to believe,then I imagine a fully loaded K3 will be then over 5
grands in japan with that dealer EDC?
You can find the price list for K3 (and accessories)
I'm building my K2 with two assistants...one 7 years old...one 3 years
old...
My 7 year old is in charge of holding the solder.
My 3 year old is in charge of the pliers to clip the lead
while assisting
me in holding the soldering iron.
Of course, it takes about three times as long to
Who will be exhibiting for Elecraft at this year's Frostfest?
HNY and 73
Tom
K4AEN
K3 #3497
dit dit
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Post:
Guys, it's obvious what's going on here:
Have you put any consideration into the fact that when Japan imports something
to the US we pay almost NO import taxes, yet when something American is sent to
Japan you guys stick us with almost a 40% import tax (not including the cost to
ship
In VK we have a GST exemption from the US provided the goods value (including
freight) does not exceed $1,000.00 Australian Dollars. If the item(s) exceed
this amount, then a GST of 10 percent is applied.
But the freight charges from the US for say an Ameritron 811H amplifier will be
added to
Fumiaki Okushi wrote:
Have you actually done price comparison?
Yaesu, Kenwood, ICOM products are only slightly more expensive in the US
market.
With respect to Canon and Nikon (and I believe you are referring to DSLR),
they are usually cheaper in the US market (because of fierce
Lionel-F6FCD wrote:
Who and how are you using Elecraft products with interfaces for digi-mode
?
What are you doing with ? what kind of mode is interresting ?
And alsowhat kind of software.a lot are available on the web
I am using the program I wrote myself, KComm, for
Looks like there is a lot of confusion surrounding K3 pricing in Japan. :-)
We've worked with EDC in Japan for 10 years. They are a very small
company, owned by JA8CCL, that is honorable and that gives support above
and beyond what is normally required to their customers. That includes
fixing
Alan Price-3 wrote:
Let me build a K2, or any other Elecraft kit, for you. You will receive a
brand new radio with the options you want. I have built very close to 300
K2's to date. My prices are reasonable. Please respond directly, not on
the reflector.
73
Alan
W1HYV
Doug Turnbull wrote:
Many EU hams look at prices in QST and CQ and just dream. It seems that
one can
purchase Japanese made radios in the States for the same price in dollars
as
one pays in Euros or Sterling.
It's really a dream. There are so many hidden costs that much of the saving
Hi,
It's been an interesting discussion. As a naturalized US citizen I am fully
aware how privileged we are in this country buying equipment of any kind,
imported or not. I just went through the motions of ordering the VX-8R from
Universal Radio except the final step of actually placing the
Hello group,
Just wanted to let you know that I assembled my first real Elecraft kit
today, and that was the XG2 signal generator. It took me about 2 hours to
assemble the kit. I took my time, and read the assembly errata before
beginning. I'm rather pleased with myself as this was the first
Hello Eric,
Thanks for the thorough clarification.
If you have no objection, can I translate your message in Japanese and pass it
to the ham colleagues in Japan who are complaining about the excessive price
differences?
I think this will let them understand more so that they can make their
Congrats James.
I've been homebrewing since 1958 but I too just put together an XG2 that Santa
delivered. Nice little starter kit and useful too.
Wes N7WS
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
From: James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] XG2 signal generator
Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:
1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ or similar that I could hang in a tree?
2) Battery based power: From speaking with the
Give us some details about your tree so we can help. Where did you purchase
it, brand etc.?
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message -
From: KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] New K3 User and New
Funny,
I too just finished putting it together. Works with no problems on the first
test.
And, my K3 kit arrived today. The boxes are sitting here on the floor in my
den and I will probably get started on it tomorrow. Tonight I am reading
through the assembly manual.
phil, K7PEH
On Jan
The biggest problem with kit building is that you typically get done far
too quickly. That leaves you feeling empty and yearning for yet more
kits to build, and on and on...
73,
Mike KW1ND
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I'd have to agree... I'm thinking a K2 would be a nice summer-time project.
Or perhaps *gasp* one of those fandangled DZKit Sienna's. ;-)
Only thing I worry about is winding toroids.
73 de James K2QI
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
I saved this originally posted by Ron, AC7AC of this list, I found it very
informative, in that a picture is worth a thousand words ...thanks Ron
http://emtech.steadynet.com/rm/tinning_200_l.ram
Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To:
Steve,
Congratulations and welcome.
I can't recommend a manufactured antenna since I make all of my own, which I
encourage you to do eventually. I do understand your desire to get on quickly,
though and I suspect you will get a lot of recommendations, some better than
others.
As to the
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, James Sarte k2qi@gmail.com wrote:
I'd have to agree... I'm thinking a K2 would be a nice summer-time project.
Or perhaps *gasp* one of those fandangled DZKit Sienna's. ;-)
Only thing I worry about is winding toroids.
Why? What could be simpler?
You might consider going with a G5RV antenna as a starter antenna. It's
multiband...80 meters and up to I think 10 meters...your rig has the auto-tuner
so any minor matching adjustments will be handled by the tuner just fine.
There's no real challenges with the antenna. It's not the best
Hi
I wll foward this message to my blog.
One of HAPPY users of KX1, K1, K2 and K3
73
aki ja1nlx
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
Looks like there is a lot of confusion surrounding K3 pricing in Japan. :-)
We've worked with EDC in Japan for 10 years. They are a very small
company,
Dunno. lots of people seem to complain about winding toroids, so I just
assumed they'd be a PITA. There's even a toroid winding service?!?!?
On the other hand, I've never been one to shy away from a challenge.
James K2QI
_
From: Wes Stewart [mailto:n...@yahoo.com]
Sent:
shoot... some toroids are wound for free... just pay the shipping...
--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
_
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
Good evening, Steve. As for item #2, you'll likely find that even with
a 100 AH battery, the voltage will drop rather quickly at 100 watts.
And as the voltage drops, the current consumption will rise to keep the
output the same, even more rapidly draining the battery. I would suggest:
1)
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, ab2tc ab...@arrl.net wrote:
I do feel bad for my fellow hams in most other countries who are not as
fortunate.
Yeah but they get all of that free health care.
Imagine what it would cost them if the US dollar was still a hard currency
instead of Monopoly money. And it
On Mon, 4 Jan 2010 17:19:39 -0800 (PST), KC2VNI st...@smarrano.com
wrote:
Howdy Steve,
Folks: I am a new ham. I just purchased a K3 100W radio with an auto-tuner.
Several basic questions:
1) Wire antennas- Do you guys have suggestions for a multi-band wire antenna
pre-made by someone like MFJ
Dan - I have the same antenna and the same balun. It is a great combination
from 160m to 10m. Before I used the balun, however, I used a balanced
Johnson Matchbox. I found that I had to add some length to the original
ladder line (about 18 feet) to get all bands to match (including all of the
Wayne Burdick wrote:
What I
meant was that you *could* make a transverter for these bands and
interface it to the K3 via KXV3 module. We don't have plans to offer one
ourselves.
I've had a Palomar VLF Converter for years, works really great, and
better with my K3. Converts [allegedly] DC
Bah! Winding toroids may be tedious, but it's by no means difficult.
It's sort of like sewing on buttons. If you've never done it before,
the first 1 or 2 are sort of fun. By the time you've done 10, it's
not as much fun. By the time you've done 20, you begin to understand
why some
Steve, I think you should go to www.radioworks.com and spend some time reading
about wire antennas. The reading is free, but buying the antennas takes some
bucks. It is worth the reading time even if you decide to buy the antenna
somewhere else or build one. The antenna that is best for you
With all the recent discussion about the W2 I decided to actually read the
on-line manual and check the specs for my self.
Upon further reading I discovered that to set the SWR alarm feature it is
necessary to have a PC connected and to set the alarm each time the unit is
powered up.
If
A list member recently posted a torrid-holding tool made
from a clothes pin. Since I can't find the posting,maybe
he'll re-post the idea.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
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Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message -
From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net
Cc: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:16 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Torroid winding aid
A list
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Marc
Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4
watts, actually 4.4, so that did help. I sent off an email to Elecraft
yesterday when I posted this and no answer yet, maybe I will call them and
talk to Scott there. I have to get a couple of speaker slides, heck those
Rick,
What is your power supply voltage? The K1 maximum output is quite
dependent on the supply voltage, so if you are using 12 volts instead of
13.8 volts, that may explain your 4.4 watt power output limit.
73,
Don W3FPR
Rick/WA6ES wrote:
Marc
Well I worked on the winding spacing and
Hi Don
13.8v. I get 7 watts on 40m and just want a little more for 20m. I am
happy with the little thing. Actually I was switching between my ft817 and
the K1. Maybe it is me but the K1 heard a little better. Or maybe it is just
me that I made the K1
Rick/WA6ES
K1 SN:2820
Don Wilhelm-4
On Jan 4, 2010, at 9:02 PM, Rick/WA6ES wrote:
Well I worked on the winding spacing and got it up to a little over 4 watts,
actually 4.4, so that did help.
How are you measuring the power output?
With my new K1 using a DL1 and KAT1 I get exactly the number of bars on the TX
LCD bar graph as
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Steve, congrats, you are now officially an OM! The ONE thing I'd like to add
about putting up ANY antenna.CAUTION. Power lines in the vicinity of your
home and your antenna are lethal. Please plan ahead and give yourself a wide
margin of safety. It's too easy to get in a hurry and loose sight of
Hello All,
I'm new to the group, so this is to say hello. I'm happily breathing life
into my K1 #2822. It arrived for Xmas. The build is going well and my
toroid winding skills are improving :)
I have a couple of questions about K1 mods:
About the ACG response time mod : changing C31 to a
--- On Mon, 1/4/10, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:
The K3 is more forgiving of slightly low voltage than most rigs. It will
operate pretty well down to 11.0 volts, but it operates better at 13.8 volts or
so.
Please don't do this to your ham neighbors. Nominal 12V PAs already put out
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