Re: [Elecraft] wall outlet for KPA1500

2021-08-05 Thread James F. Boehner, MD via Elecraft
Dave,

I hate to prolong this, but what was the solution?  Was the electrician 
mistaken, was the supplied plug incorrect or was it something else?

Everyone likes to hear the solution to a mystery! 

'73 de JIM N2ZZ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of David F. Reed
Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2021 10:53 PM
To: Robert Rennard 
Cc: Elecraft List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] wall outlet for KPA1500

You are correct, as have been all the others who gave the same information; it 
is solved now thanks to all!

Maybe we should close the topic…

73 de Dave, W5SV 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 5, 2021, at 16:29, Robert Rennard  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dave –
> I think what you want is a NEMA 6-20R wall outlet.  See page 8 of the KPA1500 
> manual.
> Bob R
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] wall outlet for KPA1500

2021-08-05 Thread David F. Reed
You are correct, as have been all the others who gave the same information; it 
is solved now thanks to all!

Maybe we should close the topic…

73 de Dave, W5SV 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 5, 2021, at 16:29, Robert Rennard  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dave –
> I think what you want is a NEMA 6-20R wall outlet.  See page 8 of the KPA1500 
> manual.
> Bob R
>  
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[Elecraft] K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf and .html

2021-08-05 Thread Wayne Burdick
Rev. C9 of the K4 operating manual can be found here:

  https://elecraft.com/pages/k4-high-performance-direct-sampling-sdr-manuals

In addition to the .html version, we're now providing a .pdf, as requested.

NOTE:  The operating manual has a black background, consistent with the color 
scheme used for all text boxes on the K4's LCD. Obviously, printing a hard copy 
wouldn't be advised, as you would consume the entire ink supply at your local 
Office Depot. It cannot be easily converted to a white background given all of 
the text styles used, so this isn't likely to happen in the short term. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR


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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Jim Brown

On 8/5/2021 2:10 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

I don't see a picture of your plug.


That's because this reflector is plain text.

Don't bother looking. If the amp was shipped to North America, it came 
with a 20A 240V plug. As others have noted, it only runs on 240V.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread hawley, charles j jr
I don't see a picture of your plug. Looking into the 6-20P  240 vac/ 20 amp 
plug with the ground pin up, it should have a vertical blade on the left and a 
horizontal blade on the right. Is that what your amp came with?

The 120 vac/20 amp plug, NEMA 5-20P,  has the blades reversed...horizontal 
blade on the left and vertical on the right. Is that what your plug is, or is 
the electrician just confused?




​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 2

2021-08-05 Thread Alan Sewell N5NA
I replaced my encoders in 2014 and then last Saturday I replaced the 
encoders in a friend's K3 SN 2707 I think.


In 2014 I used a solder sucker to desolder.  I now have a Hakko FR-300 
desoldering tool and used that last Saturday.  The five small pins are 
easy.  It's the two large tabs that are a bit difficult. On the bottom 
two encoders I snipped those tabs and then heated and pulled the cut off 
piece.  On the upper two encoders I desoldered the small pins and then 
rocked the encoder back and forth alternating heating the tabs.


As far as spacing the encoders I 3D printed some 1.4 mm thick x 8 mm OD 
spacers.  That worked well.  If I did it again I'd make the spacers 9 or 
10 mm OD.


In a post in May to Elecraft K3 groups.io Keith, WE6R, Elecraft K3 Tech 
posted "Our part # E640018, washer spacer E700187 or E700035 to space 
them above the board evenly."  I found a reference to E700035 in a 
manual.  It's a #4 x 3/8" nylon washer.  I couldn't find any reference 
to thickness of the washer.


73, Alan N5NA


On 2021-08-05 3:25 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2021 11:59:03 -0500
From: Nick Kennedy
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 small rotary encoder replacement
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

I'm in the process of replacing the four encoders to the left of the main
VFO knob and wonder if anyone has any advice or pep talks to offer.

The encoders in my summer 2008 vintage K3 degraded to the point where they
often count backwards, making adjustment of CW speed or power out difficult.

I've purchased four replacements from Elecraft and have been working up my
courage and taking deep breaths. Getting to the board is a fairly
complicated first phase. I had an Elecraft document on installation of an
audio LPF on the DSP board and found it to be very useful in this process.
Of course the original assembly manual is also useful.

Now I've got the K3 apart to the point of allowing access. The upper two
encoders have terminals located beneath an LED mounting board and are
almost impossible to access from the top. I may stop after replacing the
lower two, assuming I'm successful with them.

My usual method involves solder wick plus flux. Sometimes I find ChipQuik
to be very helpful in allowing me to remove a part without getting rid of
all the solder. In this case though, using ChipQuik would require heating
seven joints simultaneously which I haven't been able to do.

There's also an issue with mounting the encoder at the correct height so
the shaft switch can be operated. So I'll try to match the height of the
new shaft end to that of the existing encoders.

I found one website  which is somewhat helpful discussing this task:

https://www.n5na.net/s9y/index.php?/archives/26-Replacing-Elecraft-K3-Push-Button-Encoders.html

I'm keeping a lot of notes. Anyone planning to attempt this job is  welcome
to them.

73

Nick, WA5BDU


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 small rotary encoder replacement

2021-08-05 Thread Keith Trinity WE6R

Hi
Please search the Nabble archives.
http://elecraft.85.s1.nabble.com/
I have done many of the encoder replacements and posted tips.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech

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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread James F. Boehner, MD via Elecraft
David, I was hoping someone from Elecraft would have stepped in to answer your 
question.

I assume you are in the USA.

My KPA-1500 came with a 6-20P 240V plug like here:  
https://shop.worldcordsets.com/shop/categories/NEMA-620P-Power-Cords .  Your 
picture did not come through, so if your plug is different, I would contact 
Elecraft.

I was not aware that Elecraft has ever meant the amplifier to be operated on 
120V, at least from what the specs say.  Elecraft would know if your amp was 
wired for 120V.

If your plug is similar to the ones on the link, I'm concerned why the 
electrician would have said that it was a 120V cord.  The 6-20P is definitely a 
240V (USA) plug.

If all else fails, ask him to install a 240V 6-20P outlet for you.  Again, do 
contact Elecraft if your plug is different from the link above.

'73 de JIM N2ZZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of David F. Reed
Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2021 11:48 AM
To: Elecraft List 
Subject: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired for 
the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells me that 
it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire a socket for 
that to 240 V.



Here is a photo of the power plug my KPA1500 came with:David F. Reed שָׁלום 
עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום



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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread N4ST - Jim
Make sure the plug on the KPA-1500 isn't a 20A 220V plug which looks a lot
like a regular 120V plug only the blades are rotated 90°.

_ 
73,
Jim - N4ST

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Mike Dodd
Sent: Thursday, August 5, 2021 14:05
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

On 8/5/2021 1:18 PM, Mike Dodd wrote:
> So if you want to run a KPA1500 from 120V, tell the electrician the
> current draw at 120V, and ask him about running a 30A 120V circuit to a
> 30A receptacle.

Oops! I just looked at the KPA1500 specifications and found this for 
Supply Voltage and Current: 200 to 250 VAC, 50/60 Hz up to 20A.

There is no mention of 120V, so your electrician will need to run a 240V 
circuit (probably 25A or 30A) to a correctly sized 240V receptacle. 
You'll need to cut off the 120V plug and install a mating 240V plug on 
that power cable.

--- Mike N4CF


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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Mike Dodd

On 8/5/2021 1:18 PM, Mike Dodd wrote:

So if you want to run a KPA1500 from 120V, tell the electrician the
current draw at 120V, and ask him about running a 30A 120V circuit to a
30A receptacle.


Oops! I just looked at the KPA1500 specifications and found this for 
Supply Voltage and Current: 200 to 250 VAC, 50/60 Hz up to 20A.


There is no mention of 120V, so your electrician will need to run a 240V 
circuit (probably 25A or 30A) to a correctly sized 240V receptacle. 
You'll need to cut off the 120V plug and install a mating 240V plug on 
that power cable.


--- Mike N4CF


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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Mike Dodd

I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit
wired for the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the
electrician tells me that it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against
the law for him to wire a socket for that to 240 V.



That's a little odd.  Where I've had 220V, I told the electrician the
volts, amps, and type of outlet I wanted appropriate to that voltage
and current.  They had nothing to do with and no knowledge of what I
would plugging into it, which could be many things, like an air
conditioner, machine (milling machine, lathe, ...) or maybe even a
amateur radio amplifier.


I think what he meant was that the electrician could not legally wire a 
120V duplex receptacle for 240V. And he is correct about that -- no 240V 
to a 120V receptacle.


But from what I learned online, an electrician COULD install a special 
120V receptacle that is rated for 30 amps (regular household receptacles 
are rated for 20A), and wire that 120V circuit from a 30A breaker with 
#10 wire. That would be a single run to a single receptacle, and would 
carry 120V, not 240V.


So if you want to run a KPA1500 from 120V, tell the electrician the 
current draw at 120V, and ask him about running a 30A 120V circuit to a 
30A receptacle.


73, Mike N4CF

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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Tim Tucker
If the ask of the electrician was to change the 110v outlet to 240v, his
response will be - you can't do that.  If the request was to add/pull in a
new 240v circuit, he will be able to do that assuming your existing panel
supports adding the circuit.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 9:46 AM Louandzip via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

>  That's a little odd.  Where I've had 220V, I told the electrician the
> volts, amps, and type of outlet I wanted appropriate to that voltage and
> current.  They had nothing to do with and no knowledge of what I would
> plugging into it, which could be many things, like an air conditioner,
> machine (milling machine, lathe, ...) or maybe even a amateur radio
> amplifier.
>
> Lou W7HV
>
> On Thursday, August 5, 2021, 9:49:54 AM MDT, David F. Reed <
> w5sv.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired
> for the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells
> me that it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire
> a socket for that to 240 V.
>
>
>
> Here is a photo of the power plug my KPA1500 came with:David F. Reed
> שָׁלום עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום
>
>
>
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> Message delivered to ae...@worldwidedx.com



-- 
Owner, worldwidedx.com
AE6LX, Amateur Radio
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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Louandzip via Elecraft
 That's a little odd.  Where I've had 220V, I told the electrician the volts, 
amps, and type of outlet I wanted appropriate to that voltage and current.  
They had nothing to do with and no knowledge of what I would plugging into it, 
which could be many things, like an air conditioner, machine (milling machine, 
lathe, ...) or maybe even a amateur radio amplifier. 

Lou W7HV

On Thursday, August 5, 2021, 9:49:54 AM MDT, David F. Reed 
 wrote:  
 
 I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired for 
the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells me that 
it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire a socket for 
that to 240 V.



Here is a photo of the power plug my KPA1500 came with:David F. Reed
שָׁלום עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום



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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread Roy

David,

Mine came with a standard 240 v cord and plug. Could someone have 
replaced yours?


73,   Roy   K6XK


On 8/5/2021 10:48 AM, David F. Reed wrote:

I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired for 
the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells me that 
it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire a socket for 
that to 240 V.

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[Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

2021-08-05 Thread David F. Reed
I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired for 
the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells me that 
it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire a socket for 
that to 240 V.



Here is a photo of the power plug my KPA1500 came with:David F. Reed
שָׁלום עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Signalink USB Setup

2021-08-05 Thread Don Wilhelm

Aaron,

Unless you have done some sort of mod to that K2, you do NOT have 
speaker audio at pin 6 of the mic jack.
The audio is on the Control Board and RF Board, but NOT the Front Panel 
board.


The schematic of the Kenwood MC-43S microphone from G4WPW (SK) shows no 
speaker function and no connection to pin 6.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2021 10:50 AM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:

I have been using a Signalink USB with my K2 and the last time I
hooked the SignaLink to the K2 there was a real bad feedback sound
every time the rig went into transmit. It received just fine. So I
contacted Tigertronics and started a dialog with them and it turns out
I could have been setting up the Signalink wrong. Here is the setup, I
have my K2 wired to use a Kenwood MC-43S microphone. When I bought the
Signalink for the K2 they sent me the microphone cable and an Audio
cable. As per the instructions that I received from Tigertronics I am
to use the 8 pin microphone cable to connect from the K2 to the
Signalink. Then I have to connect the audio cable from the Ext Speaker
jack on the back of the K2 to the SPKR jack on the back of the
SignaLink. Then the USB from the SignaLink to the computer. Now
Tigertronics are saying that I do not need the audio cable. In the
dialog they asked what microphone I am using what it the pinout for
that microphone:
Pin1 Mic Input
Pin 2 PTT
Pin 3 N/C
Pin 4 N/C
Pin 5 8 VDC **
Pin 6 Speaker **
Pin 7 Mic GND
Pin 8 GND

** Speaker audio and power are available on some models.

Tigertronics is now asking for certain if I have Audio on Pin 6. Is
there a way for me to check this without having to take the K2 apart?


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[Elecraft] K2 and Signalink USB Setup

2021-08-05 Thread Aaron K5ATG
I have been using a Signalink USB with my K2 and the last time I
hooked the SignaLink to the K2 there was a real bad feedback sound
every time the rig went into transmit. It received just fine. So I
contacted Tigertronics and started a dialog with them and it turns out
I could have been setting up the Signalink wrong. Here is the setup, I
have my K2 wired to use a Kenwood MC-43S microphone. When I bought the
Signalink for the K2 they sent me the microphone cable and an Audio
cable. As per the instructions that I received from Tigertronics I am
to use the 8 pin microphone cable to connect from the K2 to the
Signalink. Then I have to connect the audio cable from the Ext Speaker
jack on the back of the K2 to the SPKR jack on the back of the
SignaLink. Then the USB from the SignaLink to the computer. Now
Tigertronics are saying that I do not need the audio cable. In the
dialog they asked what microphone I am using what it the pinout for
that microphone:
Pin1 Mic Input
Pin 2 PTT
Pin 3 N/C
Pin 4 N/C
Pin 5 8 VDC **
Pin 6 Speaker **
Pin 7 Mic GND
Pin 8 GND

** Speaker audio and power are available on some models.

Tigertronics is now asking for certain if I have Audio on Pin 6. Is
there a way for me to check this without having to take the K2 apart?
-- 
'72
Aaron K5ATG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 small rotary encoder replacement

2021-08-05 Thread Nick Kennedy
No, my pins are tin plated I think. Recently I replaced some power pins
with gold plated ones per Elecraft's recommendation after getting an ERR
12V message and losing power to the 100 W amplifier.

When my K3 was less than a year old (June 2009) I had a lot of indications
going crazy and Elecraft replaced the front board under warranty. No
problems since then. I suspected the problem was tin whiskers but couldn't
be sure.

And  now back to the encoder replacements.

73

Nick, WA5BDU

On Wed, Aug 4, 2021 at 4:40 PM David Hachadorian 
wrote:

> Do you have gold pins on the connectors between the front panel and the
> body of the radio?  I had tinned pins until about a year ago, when I
> replaced them with gold. The old pins were increasingly causing all kinds
> of strange glitches.
>
> I also looked at replacing the small encoders, and ultimately chickened
> out.  After I replaced the front panel pins, the glitches that I thought
> were caused by the encoders all went away.
>
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Big Bear Lake, CA
>
> On 8/4/2021 9:59 AM, Nick Kennedy wrote:
>
> I'm in the process of replacing the four encoders to the left of the main
> VFO knob and wonder if anyone has any advice or pep talks to offer.
>
> The encoders in my summer 2008 vintage K3 degraded to the point where they
> often count backwards, making adjustment of CW speed or power out difficult.
>
> I've purchased four replacements from Elecraft and have been working up my
> courage and taking deep breaths. Getting to the board is a fairly
> complicated first phase. I had an Elecraft document on installation of an
> audio LPF on the DSP board and found it to be very useful in this process.
> Of course the original assembly manual is also useful.
>
> Now I've got the K3 apart to the point of allowing access. The upper two
> encoders have terminals located beneath an LED mounting board and are
> almost impossible to access from the top. I may stop after replacing the
> lower two, assuming I'm successful with them.
>
> My usual method involves solder wick plus flux. Sometimes I find ChipQuik
> to be very helpful in allowing me to remove a part without getting rid of
> all the solder. In this case though, using ChipQuik would require heating
> seven joints simultaneously which I haven't been able to do.
>
> There's also an issue with mounting the encoder at the correct height so
> the shaft switch can be operated. So I'll try to match the height of the
> new shaft end to that of the existing encoders.
>
> I found one website  which is somewhat helpful discussing this task:
> https://www.n5na.net/s9y/index.php?/archives/26-Replacing-Elecraft-K3-Push-Button-Encoders.html
>
> I'm keeping a lot of notes. Anyone planning to attempt this job is  welcome
> to them.
>
> 73
>
> Nick, WA5BDU
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> --
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Big Bear Lake, AZ
>
>
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