Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 refurbishment

2024-03-13 Thread Geert Jan de Groot via Elecraft

May I add another pitfall:

The original K2 radio has a round 2.1mm plug to power the radio.
The KPA100 adds a powerpole 12V input. Powering the radio through the 
powerpoles will feed the radio *and* the amplifier.


However the reverse is not true; powering the round plug will feed the 
radio but not feed the KPA100. However the KPA100 PIC communicting will 
receive power.


Hence, perhaps emberassing: "did you power the K2 via the powerpoles"?

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SP-3 Speaker

2023-12-11 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Just a quick note asking if anyone has an SP-3 Elecraft Speaker to part with. > 
Have been looking for one for quite a while.?


For lack of Elecraft SP3 availability, I recently bought a pair of 
Phonema KSP3s speakers that match the K3 form factor and for which I am 
very happy with the audio-quality with.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG


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Re: [Elecraft] Kpod not Working on K3

2023-11-20 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 19/11/2023 23:20, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Hi All, I have taken my Kpod from my K4 
and put it on my K3. (I assume it works for both rigs). The K3 has had 
the Mod completed as per the Kpod manual with a 6.8 Ohm, 1/8 W Leaded 
Resistor as per pages 16-18 of the Kpod manual. Problems. 1. Kpod does 
not power up with the Data cable between K3 & Kpod connected (No leds 
lit up at all. 2. When I power Kpod with a 12v source the On led shows 
as does D1 - D3 when switched with the rocker switch. 3. The large 
tuning knob on the Kpod does not function in any way. I have tested the 
Data cable with a network tester it is wired correctly 2-6 pins only and 
they show satisfactory on the tester. 


The RJ45 connector on the bottom seems to be a "manufacturing connector" 
that later got re-used to support the K-POD. Originally, it would be 
able to program the main processor of the K3.


Exactly how this works is on sheet 4 (of 7) of the K3 Front Panel - MCU 
schematics, where this connector is labelled "J3 - ICD-2".
The name ICD-2, as well as the names of the signals on this connector - 
MCLR, PGD, PGC - are familiar if you do microchip programming and they 
go directly to U1 PIC18LF8722 which is the main controller for the front 
panel.


My recommendation would be to open up the KPOD (for which schematics can 
also be downloaded, as well as for the K3 itself) and check if you 
actually get 5V, and GND correctly from the K3. I suspect that the cable 
is reversed or the "wrong" pin1 is clipped.


I would resist the temptation to make a cable that is rolled. The 
signals go directly to the processor and measuring, instead of changing 
the cable.
These flat cables have a "flat" side and a "seam side. On my 
Elecraft-supplied cable, one end has the seam up and the other end has 
the flat up.


Also, if the R82 mod (6.8ohm resistor) is not fully connected then pin6 
will not carry 5volts as soon as the KPOD is connected since the KPOD 
draws more current. Having said that - the fact that the KPOD powers up 
with an external 12V supply but then still doesn't communicate suggests 
an issue with the cable even though your description is pretty good.


What software version is your K3 running? Manual says 5.54 minimal for 
KPOD support.


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] List guidelines, please review.

2023-10-27 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




I believe this used to go out automatically every month, but anyway;
https://elecraft.com/pages/email-discussion-list-guidelines
Please review,,, and NOTE; we now have over 7000 members!
(there were only 3000 when Eric wrote this) > Specifically re recent discussion 
see sections;
3, 4a, 5, 5a, 5a1, 5b, 8.


Just an opinion, not trying to start another mail thread:
I would like the list owner to consider restricting forsale messages.

With the K4 being available and the availability of some K3 options, I 
now see a flurry of messages from people offloading their kit, or 
looking for something.


A discussion about a K3 that has a defect or a modification will benefit 
future readers for years to come (yes, I do use the archives which I 
think is a valuable part of the reflector).


The flurry of messages "K3 for sale ... K3 has been sold" lost their 
value the moment the message is on the list. The person offloading 
doesn't care when he switches to flex or whatever but damage to the 
archives is forever.


If the reflector degrades to a forsale list then attendance will be 6999 
and probably (much) lower.


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] Digital mode power handling for KAT3

2023-10-12 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




FWIW: I use my K3/KAT3 at 100 W in RTTY contests with no issues.? %
derating could be a function of the complex impedance at the end of your
transmission line ... my match on all bands is not terrible.


Be aware that the KAT3 has a IF trap (C10/L10) which may 
catastrophically fail depending on the frequency, power and antenna 
impedance.


Recourse is to remove them (i.e. bypass) as the K3 doesn't need the trap 
and it is causing issues. On the KAT3A the trap is eliminated.


Since you're planning higher duty cycles, you're more likely to run into 
this. Google "KAT3 C10 failure" for details.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Power Surge Advice

2023-08-07 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi,

In addition to Mike's response (always happy to read his comments!), I 
think it is useful to give some additional hints as you may need a 
better understanding of the configuration you have.


The Elecraft K2 is a 15W QRP transceiver, with the optional QRP 
antennatuner and the battary option in the top lid.


When Elecraft introduced the 100W KPA option, the basic idea was that 
the top lid could be replaced with the KPA100 to get 100W output. When 
the KAT100 antenna tuner was introduced, it would add another (lower) 
box that was supposed to sit under the K2/100 radio. Switching between 
QRP portable mode (with battary) and 100W version meant switching the 
top lid.


The KPA100 doesn't have any indicators. The KAT100 tuner does: ANT1/ANT2 
selection, LOW/HIGH power (enabling or disabling the KPA100 amplifier, 
which could be switched to be bypassed for QRP power levels) and a LED 
bar to indicate SWR.


I think it was Lyle KK6P (of KDSP2 fame) who conceived a different 
approach: the frontpanel of the KAT100 tuner was available in two 
versions, one for the low KAT100 box, but also a bigger frontpanel that 
would be the same size as a K2 radio. You would buy a "K2 empty box" and 
in this second box, one would install the KAT100 tuner (bottom) and the 
KPA100 amplifier (top).
The QRP antenna tuner / battary would be in the original top, that stays 
on the K2. Connecting the boxes together would give a 100W radio with 
PA, 100W antenna tuner; disconnecting the two would give a the K2 
portable radio with builtin battary. I built this configuration.


Since you mention "separate enclosure" I suspect this is the config you 
built too.


It seems that information about this configuration has gotten a bit lost 
over the years. The KAT100 module design was made to allow for this; for 
instance, it had a BNC connector so that the input of the KPA100 
amplifier could be connected to the K2 this way. Power to the twin boxes 
would be via the 20A powerpole connector on the KPA100 module; the 
KPA100 module has a low-power power connector that would normally supply 
the K2, but in this configuration would power the KAT100 module. The 
KAT100 module, as well as the K2 radio itself, has a 2.1mm barrel jack 
that if you would use interconnect powercables, would power the K2 (from 
the KPA100 and the KAT100 module). And the AUX connector (DE9) on K2 and 
KPA100 on the twin box would be connected via a short jumper cable. 
There are a number of options here, depending on how this was built 
(hence 'information a bit lost').


I need *three* cables between the two twin boxes: a coax jumpercable to 
interconnect the BNC antenna ports, a powercable to power the K2 from 
the twin box, and a DE9 jumpercable to bring AUXbus, 12VCNTL, ALC, 8R 
and ground between the two boxes. Please verify you connected al three 
cables; I have my suspicions about the DE9 cable.


Now,to your question. First, the KPA100 module (again / still) does not 
have a power indicator. The KAT100 module *does* have indicators. And 
they only light if the KAT100 module senses power from the K2 radio 
(that is now it "switches off" if the K2 is switched off).


So, the first question is whether the K2 and the twin box is connected 
correctly. The twin box has 2 AUX DE9 connectors (one on the KPA100, one 
on the KAT100); please verify it is connected to the right one.
(In my case, I did not place the KAT100 DE9 connector because it didn't 
serve a purpose in my my radio config, the twinbox is made to use the 
DE9 of the KPA100 module!).


Another question is whether the KIO2 module, that provides the DE9 
connector on the K2 radio, actually still supplies +12V on pin 8 of the 
DE9 connector. The voltage is only used as "sense voltage" on the 
KAT100, not to power the tuner.


The K2 senses if it has the twin box connected during powerup. You can 
do a few checks: pressing the ANT1/2 button will flip the relays in the 
KAT100 if it was found during powerup, but will flip the relays in the 
KAT2 QRP antenna tuner if not (the relays in the KAT100 are LOUD!). The 
POWER knob will go to 110 if the KPA100 is found, bit only to 15 (or 10) 
if the KPA100 is not found.
If the K2 radio has the builtin battery, then you should be able to see 
the power supply voltage if you select it using the DISPLAY knob and 
then switch the power supply on and off (the K2 doesn't handle this very 
gracefully, kindly powercycle the K2 after this test).


In short, the problem description is a bit terse but I hope this message 
gives some more background about a config that is partially forgotten in 
past years and not very well documented.


And whatever you do, NEVER CONNECT A NORMAL RS232 SERIAL CABLE IN THE 
DE9 of a K2 OR KPA100 MODULE. A "serial device" only connects pin 2, 3 
and 5, NOTHING ELSE.


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 battery charging (was: Pk3 battery charging)

2023-08-07 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 07/08/2023 17:02, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I?m getting an error when trying to set time for charge.
It says ?d = 009, err BC3
And it?s locked!!
Any help would be appreciated.


Please check if your KX3 radio actually has the KXBC3 charger module 
installed and if the module is installed correctly.


The KX3 software spooks if it tries to communicate to the KXBC3 module 
and the module is missing. Instead of an error message, the software 
actually locks up and when it happened to me, I resorted to 
initialisation (thankfully I had a recent backup of the config).


I'd be interested to learn if there a different way to recover this. And 
perhaps the software should more robust: configuring the radio whether 
or not has the option installed, and setting a charge time, is the same 
option setting.


The issue has been reported to Elecraft: 
https://github.com/drewarnett/kx3-firmware-issues/issues


(Mind you, I love my Elecrafts to bits but I wish Elecraft engineering 
would have time to address the issues listed)


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] Buying a K4 in UK

2023-08-02 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 02/08/2023 20:54, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Call Elecraft and see what they tell you. Why is this not obvious?


For one, it is not obvious because Elecraft does not have (and can not 
have) expertise in the complex and fast-changing world of international 
customs regulations. The post office says that this is "the 
responsibility of the receiver" even if the post office screws up, which 
often happens.


Just one example: a few years ago, a small item could be sent as 
"letter" and as long as the value was low, it just went through. These 
days, anything not on paper is a "parcel", requires a boatload of 
customs administration both at the sender's (USPS won't touch it 
without) and again at the receiver's end (that means *you* doing the 
complex customs admin paperwork!), and you get to pay the post office 
for the processing of said paperwork in addition to other charges, 
customs and taxes.


I also dare you to look up the costs of sending something trivial to EU 
or UK via USPS or any of the other carriers. You will not be pleased.


Having had some bad experiences with self-import I can see where the 
question comes from. Having been burned before I'm gladly paying the 
markup of a local distributor even though in some cases the cost goes up 
by as much as 3dB.


I have trouble with these offside remarks "just call elecraft". I dare 
you to ship something to the UK or EU, using current, recent regulations 
and see what happens.


Elecraft's supply problems have been hard, very hard on DX distributors. 
A customer orders something and then the distributor is told to wait for 
a year or more on the order. For a distributor, one way to make revenue 
is to get combined orders which doesn't work for these very long, and 
unpredictable lead times.
Meanwhile, while the customer is waiting, he may cancel the order and 
the distributor is left with very little way to make revenue. The one in 
Berlin I used to use, closed shop end of last year because the low sales 
volume made things unsustainable.


As to W - I think there have been some major changes. Note that W 
didn't advertize in the RSGB RadCom magazine for several months. 
Typically these are small, one or two-person shops and if something 
happens (circumstances or health) things quickly go sour.


In brief, "just call elecraft" is entirely too simple. I hope you see 
that now. And I, too, don't have a quick and easy way to order a K4 in 
the UK.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rotary encoder

2023-05-21 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 21/05/2023 18:23, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I think I have a defect rotary encoder on a K3.
It is the one used for setting the bandwidth (Hi/Width).
Anyone out here who knows the manufacturer / type number of this rotary encoder?


Google finds https://n5na.net/wp/replacing-elecraft-k3-push-button-encoders/
Also 
https://groups.io/g/Elecraft-K3/topic/k3_rotary_encoder_replacement/74198899


You probably want to order enough to replace all four encoders at once.

NOTE, the VFO-A and VFO-B encoder, as well as the RIT encoder, are 
*different types*.


If you qualify for minimum order size, then ordering directly at mouser 
or digikey is simplest, at least for us behind the EU customs wall.


Be sure to include diodes to protect your KLPA when you put in an order.

Geert Jan


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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Bias Resistor When Using Mic Connector Pin 1 for Soundcard Input

2023-04-08 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 07/04/2023 23:48, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I'd like to connect a sound card output to a K2 mic connection. Does
this bias resistor need to be removed when I connect the sound card
output?


Electret microphones, like the MH2, MH3, MH4 require a bias voltage to 
function. On the K2, this is done by "adding a 5K6 resistor between pin 
1 and 6". That also works on the K3, but the K3 also has an option in 
the menu to set enable a bias resistor in the rig - if you do that, you 
don't need the physical resistor but you need to remember to do the setting.


Personally, I worry about the chance of doing this wrong (either bias 
for a soundcard or a dynamic microphone, or forgetting the bias on an 
electret) and hence said 5K6 bias resistor is in the microphone plug. If 
I plug in an electret microphone, it will get bias, if I plug on 
something else, I don't need to worry, and this will work on K2 and K3, 
w/o any menu setting changes.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 vs SP4

2023-03-08 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 08/03/2023 04:39, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Got the SP4 for my K4D today.  So I can put the SP3 in the closet for the
rest of my life (next to other elecraft radios and accessories) or put it
out for sale since Elecraft no longer makes them.


What is the difference between a SP3 and a SP4? Looking at the pictures 
they seem similar apart from the text on the bezel.

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 Band Decoder question

2023-03-08 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 08/03/2023 04:39, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I picked up a KRC2 Band Decoder.
Are there any issues using this with a K3?
Does the stock DB9 cable to the rig need to be rewired for the K3?
I want to hook it up for FD with a bandpass filter set.


There are a number of ways to set up a KRC2, depending on how you want 
to interface it. With an Elecraft radio, you probably want to use the 
AUX bus.


On the K2, for which the KRC2 was originally designed, the AUX signal is 
on the DE9 serial connector (and it's one of the reasons you cannot use 
a "straight cable" connecting a K2 to a serial device!!!).


On the K3, the AUX signal is on the DE-15 ACC connector, NOT on the 
9-pin serial port. The KRC2 documentation got updated for this, be sure 
you have the errate document describing connection to the K3:

https://ftp.elecraft.com/KRC2/Manuals%20Downloads/KRC2_Manual_Errata_Rev_C4.pdf
So make sure you get the errata document.

73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] RS232/ U1/ failure

2023-02-25 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 24/02/2023 21:46, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:


When the K3 is  in cold room ( below 5 degrees S) my K3/0 go  in TERM
mode.
Hints say ''replace'' the U1 on the main KIO3 board..
Is the U1 SN75C1406 ( G4) ? Or can I use similar SN75 ?
Removed the top cover,and checked voltage , at gold plated test-point
close to the upper edge
of the main board +5.0 vdc. In the lower end of the SN75, test point at
the left side,seen from the front,,
start with approx + 0.35 vdc, and drops slowly to approx -0.50 vdc in 4
to 5 minutes
My K3 need ''warm up'' also for connecting via PC to K3 utility


Looking at the schematics, I remember that Elecraft, in history, has 
used a number of different "logic to RS232 converter" chips. I think 
these changed as devices became obsolete, 


Both the SN75C1406 you mention in your other mail as well as the LT1039 
that is in the K3 schematics (K3, not K3s) use a positive and a negative 
voltage. I would suggest checking the VCC8A voltage on your KIO3 board 
on pin 1 of your driver chip.


For the negative voltage required, at least on the K3 schematics, there 
is an AF oscillator ("approx 1 kHz") and a FET and some diodes to create 
a charge pump to create the negative voltage. I would suggest checking 
the voltage (seems to be pin 9 for both devices) and I would expect 
around -10V or so.


Given that "the problem solves when the radio warms up" my suspicion 
would be in the negative voltage generator. Specifically, check the 
electrolyt capacitors used in the charge pump.


I am a but surprised to see the SN75C1406 reported in your board, 
because the LT1039 (listed in the K3 schematics) still has production 
status and seems to be on-stock with Mouser. I did *not* fully verify 
that these chips are interchangeable but I suspect a power supply 
problem (sketched above) rather than a broken driver, since broken 
driver chips do not tend to repair themselves with temperature.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] key out

2023-02-20 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
(Including the list on this response - if discussions on email fraid are 
fair game, then perhaps some Elecraft-related technical content is too)


> I am interested if anyone has a relay circuit design/suggestion to use
> the Key Out jack on the K3 to activate a light during TX?
> I have a few ideas but thought I would ask the masses.

The KEY output is spec'ed for 200VDC@5A so with luck you should be able 
to drive your load directly.


Wanting to protect the circuitry from grave natural forces, I have 
successfully used a PNP power transistor to switch a load - emitter to 
plus-power, resistor 4K7 between basis and emitter, second 4k7 resistor 
between basis and KEY output, load between collector and ground.


If you're planning to switch some lights directly connected to the 
electrical grid, then you may want to consider one of those 
semiconductor relays - the KEY output will easily drive it and those 
guys provide the isolation required.


The same circuit also works for the AUX outputs of the KPOD, though 
those outputs are not as beefy (50V, 100mA).
Note that if you do use the KPOD AUX outputs, you may find the 
documentation is wrong: in the connector pinout, AUX1 and AUX3 are 
swapped. I don't know if the documentation has been corrected since I 
reported this; it may save some head scratching knowing this.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Panadapter with K2

2023-01-24 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Does anyone know if the P3 Panadapter will work with the K2 transceiver?


It does, with a number of caveats:
- The K2 does not have an IF Out port. On my K2, I never installed the 
no-antennatuner BNC connector; I modified the connector to use a small 
coax cable (AWAY from the high RF output of the antenna circuit to avoid 
leaks) and re-purposed the BNC for "IF Out". In hindsight, perhaps I 
should have used a SMA connector and some filler rings (for the same 
hole at the back of the K2)
- You need an IF buffer amplifier. Search for "Clifton Laboratories 
Z1". The buffer amplifier comes in two versions, Z1-K2 and 
Z1-U. You want the K2 model, or get the universal model and add the 
4.915 Mhz filtering.
- The IF output is a tad low, you won't see "the bottom of the band" 
though I still found this useful
- The P3 cannot talk to the K2. Which means that there won't be 
frequencies on the P3 display, nor can you make the P3 "shift" as you 
can make the K3 do. The center will be the frequency you are receiving 
(which I consider most useful anyway), but that's what you get.
- The K2 has some BFO leakage back into the IF. For reception that does 
not matter; however for spectrum display you will find a spike in the 
center of the frequency you are receiving. There are some mods to make 
it "less" but not "gone". If you have a live band you probably won't 
notice; I was using the QO100 passband on which signals have a max 
strength of 24dB above noise and then the spike shows. I did not find it 
objectionable.


I do suggest you take some time to look up the original Clifton Z1 
documentation; it is a piece of art on the same standard as the K2 
manual if not higher. I learned quite some things by just looking at the 
documentation. It is very unfortunate that Jack is no longer with us; 
however production of the amplifier has been taken over by DX 
engineering who sells pre-built boards which seem to be of similar 
standard as the ones Jack provided.


Is it useful? Definitely! Recommended? Yes. But you should know the 
limitations, which is why my posting is more verbose.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG



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Re: [Elecraft] K3- Part fell out!

2023-01-23 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 23/01/2023 22:22, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I dropped d a lock washer into the bowels of my K3 today, so had to invert
the unit to get the washer out of the unit.  When I did so, the washer fell
out of the unit, but so did another component.  Its a small rectangular
part, white on one side and blackish on the other, and either "3K3" or
"3R3" is stamped on it.  I don't know where the part came from, or where it
should go back' I'm just sure it doesn't belong sitting on my bookshelf
rather than be in the radio.


You will need to send a picture so that people can determine what it is.

I took the K3 schematics (since you didn't mention K3s) and did a search 
for 3.3 ohms and 3.3 kohms but that didn't give a hit, suggesting it may 
not be a resistor. There are 3 3.3uf capacitors in the radio.


Once we've established what it is we can search further.

I thought it would be a 3.3 ohm resistor that would run hot, un-solder 
itself but as said, can't find a schematic that has it.


GJ


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[Elecraft] K2 "serial" connector and PA KEY output (was: KPA1500 and K2)

2023-01-15 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
[Submitted this earlier today with a picture attached of "how I made 
mine", however it seems the picture is causing the message to bounce, so 
now sending w/o picture]



Is your K2 one with a PA Key out?  If so, just an RCA cable and a coax
jumper.


If your K2 is a K2/100 then it will have PA key out as the KPA100 
provides it. If your K2 is a K2/10 (without KPA100), then, to ponder:


On 
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K2/Mod%20Notes%20Alerts/K2%20Amplifier%20Keying%20Circuit.pdf 
there is an application note from Wayne on how to build a simple circuit 
to get this PA KEY output. The application note suggests adding a small 
PCB inside the K2.


Notice that the connector of the KIO2 ("do not connect a straight 
through cable") has all the signals that Wayne's circuit needs. So, it 
is possible to build this PA key out circuit on a small PCB that fits 
inside the hood of a DE9 connector, the one that connects to the KIO2 
connector.
Hence, it is possible to build a "KIO2 special cable" that houses the PA 
KEY circuit, and also provides connectivity to pin 2, 3, 5 (only these 
pins!) so that a RS232 device can be connected, and not make any change 
to the K2 itself.


And there would not be a need to drill a hole in the K2 casing, find 
place for Wayne's circuit - it all fits in the cabling that connects to 
the K2, and, at the same time, protects the non-RS232 signals of the 
KIO2 connector.


In my "special cable dongle", sharp eyes will see some deviations: I did 
not connect the RS232 pins because my transverters don't need it, but I 
did add a 3rd transistor (2nd 2N) and a LED to indicate when the PA 
KEY circuit is activated. A red LED now lights when the K2 activates the 
TX PA circuit.


And if you have done the Unspeakable and connected a RS232 device via a 
full-wired straight cable, then you may find 
http://folk.uio.no/sverre/LA3ZA/blog/K2/N0SS/k2_wrong_ser_cbl_damage.pdf 
of interest. Note that updating a K2 to the "B" revision makes a number 
of changes that, at least in theory, should reduce some of the damage 
done. It is still best to NEVER make this mistake, though.



73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Price increase Alert

2023-01-15 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




We will be increasing prices across all of our product lines at the end of
this month, on Jan. 31st.
Our on-line order forms will update with the new pricing at that time.
All orders placed with us -prior- to the increase date of January 31st will
be charged at the lower current pricing, even if they ship after the price
increase date.


What will the effect of the price increase be to the 
long-rumored-but-not-yet-orderable-and-hence-I-cannot-order-before-jan31 
KXIBC2, the new charger that allows charging w/o removal of the battery 
of the KX2?


Geert Jan



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Re: [Elecraft] AF knob turn all around

2022-12-04 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 04/12/2022 21:11, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

in one of my K3 radios, AF, SUB, RF/SQL and SUB knobs turn all aroun, no
limits on right and left side
Couldn`t figure out if I need a phillips or ALE instrument to fix it and if
this will fix it properly


The screws of the knobs are 0.050" allen key, per K3 assembly manual 
(page 21).


But (based on experience with my K3), the volume knobs themselves on 
early K3 may split open. Remove the knob and see if the potmeter (these 
are potmeters, not encoders on K3) itself has the correct stops. Unless 
you bumped the knobs the potmeters are generally OK.


The knobs are an Elecraft-specific design. If you're in a hurry, there 
are alternatives made out of metal (but Eric doesn't like them and I 
agree with him there, barring availability!). There has been discussion 
on this on the list a few years back with part numbers and all.


The potmeters themselves are not Elecraft design but hard to obtain. 
Your best bet is to ascertain what is actually broken and take it from 
there.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] Product availability communications (was: KPA1500 Amplifiers are now shipping from Stock)

2022-10-07 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi Jim,

>> The missed point here is that the ability to buy parts
>> to build stuff has been ongoing for more than three years!

The issue isn't part scarcity though I don't envy the Elecraft engineers 
re-re-re-redesigning to circumvent parts with long lead times or parts 
going unobtainable.


The issue is lack of status updates and lack of communication. Apart 
from the May 2022 message, and a minor update a few weeks ago, I have 
not seen any updates for the last two years.


Elecraft would do well if they'd do, for instance, a monthly update 
*every month*. And even if it would be "for XX, we expected to get ready 
 but we had another setback and we expect YY months of additional 
delay" would be better received than the current silence.


We're not talking announcement of new product which is understandably 
sensitive. We're talking managing expectations of product people have 
ordered, and in many cases, paid for.


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 INTERFACE WITH LDG Z100A

2022-09-05 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 04/09/2022 09:37, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I looked up the Owner's Manual for the Z100A and it does not have
a "Molex" connector on the tuner.  The radio interface cable is a
miniDIN6.  The manual also does not list a cable for K3 (or any
Elecraft transceiver) - only the "IC106" cable for connecting power.


The DIN connector has 4 active pins it seems - plus and minus power, a 
signal that should trigger the transceiver if you press the tune button 
to trigger the radio to make RF, and a signal that indicates the tuning 
process is complete.


None of the indication signals directly interface with the K3.

As others already said, I don't think the K3 has an interface for either 
of these signals. The procedure would then be:

1. reduce output power on K3
2. press TUNE on K2 to start generating RF
3. Press TUNE on tuner to make it start a tune cycle
4. Tuner will indicate completion of cycle
5. Press TUNE to stop K2 generating power.
6. Restore RF power setting.

There is no integration between the K3 and the Z100A unfortunately.

LDG makes many tuner models, some actually talk to the radio to do part 
of the above process automatically.


My suggestion is to join the LDG group at
https://groups.io/g/ldgelectronics

73, Geert Jan PE1HZG



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Re: [Elecraft] KIO3 failure mode

2022-08-25 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Many faults occur via the station ground system.? This fault indicated a
difference in potential between the station ground and the AC Mains
ground.? In many cases, the station equipment is connected between
station ground and the AC Mains ground.?? 


I think we're seeing monthly reports of KIO3 ports being blown up by 
having it connected to a PC and creating a ground loop. I wonder why 
this keeps happening over and over.


The proper solution is to have an entry panel through which EVERYTHING 
is grounded and connected together. There have been a fair number of 
publications on this over the years.


I do wonder though, if a full galvanic isolator would also help? It 
won't replace the ground panel, but having heard the stories (followed 
by "I need the KIO3 repaired and can't get parts / Elecraft repair is 
backed up") I wonder about this measure.


How such an isolator box is powered would be another matter though. But 
I wonder who tried this?


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 frequency reporting (was: KX3 and its "TUNE" selection. (With mag loop)

2022-08-25 Thread Geert Jan de Groot



>> I wonder how hard it would be to have a transceiver tell
>> the magloop what frequency it's tuned to?


That's absolutely possible over the serial port (ACC1)! The Programmer's
Reference has the details:


You don't need to go as far as sending commands to query the KX3 (or 
KX2, or K3, for that matter).
Set MENU:AUTO INF from NOR to ANT CTRL, and every time you change the 
frequency dial, change bad, the KX3 will automatically report frequency 
and a number of other parameters. Don't need to send commands, reporting 
automatically happens. Format of the status report is in the document 
quoted.


Suggest your mag loop supports 38400 baud. With KX3, other speeds do 
work but as soon as you add other things (PX3, KXPA100) you will find 
that some of them enforce 38400 baud so you "might as well".


MENU:AUTO INF set to ANT CTRL also works on KX2 and even on K3 (it's 
called MENU:AUTOINF and needs to be set to AUTO 1 on K3 but then works 
like the rest).
Personally, I use it to control my Hardrock 500 amplifier and this "just 
works".


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Synthesizer, KSYN3A

2022-07-16 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 15/07/2022 18:48, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I have a K3 with the original synthesizer boards. I am looking for a pair
of the new KSYN3A boards.
I have spoken to Elecraft tech support and I am on their list in case they
decide to make a run of new synthesizer boards.


The KSYN3A design is based on microcontrollers from Microchip.
I've ordered some controllers at Microchip myself (of a type that is 
much more common than the ones used in KSYN3A) and today I received the 
5th "your ship datum has changed" notice. Note, we're talking delivery 
in 3Q2023, but the next notification will be 4Q2023; my first delivery 
notice was for June 2023. And my order is small.


The market is still absolutely bonkers. At QRL, I know about at least a 
dozen re-design efforts to change designs to make meet the 
semiconductors that we still can get.


Wayne reported similar difficulties in his status report three  months 
ago. And it doesn't make sense to keep reporting "it is going to 
come..." because the ship dates keep shifting and part delivery 
promises, even contractual, keep changing.


The industry expects things to quieten down a bit next year, but we'll 
still need to catch up the backlog.


I fully understand Wayne not reporting any ship dates. I would report 
only if I have all parts on my desk, for all parts needed in the design. 
Even mundane things like connectors (DC connectors) now yield delivery 
time of more than a year out.


So it goes,

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 sn 179 drop outs

2022-06-29 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 29/06/2022 17:29, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I used my K2, s/n 179, at FD with great success with one problem. During tuning on 40 and 
20M the encoder would temporarily "drop out", causing the received signals to 
cut out.
I bought the radio at an estate sale last September with the intent to use it 
for FD. It was a Rev A so I put in the Rev B upgrades for whatever options were 
installed (not much if any). I also added the noise blanker. I had noticed the 
drop out when I used the radio on occasion but assumed it was due to lack of 
use.
Elecraft doesn't show an upgraded encoder assembly on their website. Is there 
one for such an old radio? I have an email in to the tech support there, as 
well as researching the reflector.


I am not aware of problems with the main K2 encoder, or with encoder 
problems causing audio to drop. Actually, I don't fully understand what 
you mean with "drop out" - does the radio suddenly change frequency, and 
if so, does that also happen if the main dial is locked?


If the encoder has an intermittent short then the frequency may jump but 
it should not cause an audio cut.


My first recommendation is to take apart the front panel and closely 
investigate the soldering between the main encoder and the frontpanel PCB.


There used to be a new encoder for the K2, see 
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K2/Manuals%20Downloads/E740177%20K2%20Encoder%20Installation%20Instructions,%20rev%20B.pdf 

THis encoder included a small PCB to make the new encoder behave like 
the old one. This used to be listed as K2 spare part but I don't see it 
listed anymore. Note that if you get a new encoder, you also get a 
different tuning know because the shaft diameter is different.


But, in all years I yet have to hear about "K2 main encoder doesn't work 
anymore". There have been issues with other encoders on newer radios but 
the main K2 one has been robust. You may want to check the soldering job 
done.


Geert Jan


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 on commercial airplane

2022-06-28 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




I tried telling the TSA guy a little box of electronics and such was for my 
hearing aid.
He thought I was spoofing him and called his supervisor when he asked if it 
received Fox News, and I said not in my house. I explained it was the Bluetooth 
gear for broadcasting TV audio into the earpiece. A little demo for the TSA 
folks was cordial but I almost missed the flight.
One step for man, a giant step for mankind.


There are restrictions on LiPo batteries for a reason. Restrictions on 
maximal capacity of the battery and how the battery is packed - inside a 
radio OK, loose not OK.


I am pretty sure the KX2 with built-in cells is OK since these can be 
sent unrestricted in mail. The Bienno may or may not be - bigger 
capacity, loose battery, and the cells are only protected by plastic 
foil. If the cells get crushed in your carry bag, what happens?


If you've ever had a LiPo go rogue on you you will understand why TSA 
has issue with the possibility of LiPo incidents inside a metal tube you 
cannot step out of.


We as hams may "know it better" but the fact of the matter is that the 
TSA rules are there to keep flights safe. Trying to play them by telling 
them a lie is dishonest, dangerous and perhaps even illegal. *If* you 
know better, you should assist TSA in managing the risk, not lie to 
them, even if that means that you cannot carry the battery you want to 
carry.


I've carried some pretty interesting stuff over the years and always did 
so fully open. It has raised issues, there has been cases where a 
manager needed to get involved, but on a proper trip this was all 
prepared in advance (by asking the airline, not a mailing list) and 
everyone was happy with the approach and the preparation taken. I also 
found people to be pretty accommodating if asked correctly.


And if you feel otherwise and know it all better - it's a free world and 
everyone has an opinion! - then I kindly ask you to identify what flight 
you will be on so I will take the next flight, thank you.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] Common K3 failure modes???

2022-06-27 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 27/06/2022 20:39, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Four categories:

> 

I didn't want to start a flame fest, but I was trying to find what mods 
one should do as a preventive measure. Buying the input-diodes that fail 
on very strong input signals (discussed on the list) is one thing.
Protecting the LPA amplifier (the extra diodes) is a good and simple 
investment too - took me all of 10 minutes to install them.


Comments about the 8V regulator - I bookmarked these messages, assuming 
that an 7808 voltage regulator should be obtainable.
Thanks for the other comments - I think my radios are now in a 
reasonable shape against known mishaps.


Several other mods (like "gold pins") have been published and should be 
considered known.


Scarcity is another issue, and it's big. Elecraft often uses Microchip 
controllers in their radios (I don't know about the K4. but for older 
models this is true).
I have been trying to buy various Microchip processors for other 
projects and for many, stock has completely dried up with 
www.microchipdirect.com quoting availability end of 2023 for many 
popular devices. I don't know if Elecraft has had sufficient parts stock 
for their production, but it is likely that redesigns would be needed 
otherwise (Wayne has commented on this happening on the K4 a few times).


I wonder if the "last run of K3 modules" is also affected by this, 
explaining the long lead time on these modules.


Over the years there has been a mix of modifications, partially already 
solved in new production runs, etc. For instance, recently learned about 
the "hardware AGC" mod that I didn't know about - when I opened up my 
radio I found that the "modification" had been fixed in a later RF board 
revision and hence my radio already had this modification.


In that regard, I've suggested that Elecraft gives each K4 hardware 
modification a number, and to put a sticker inside the radio: "mod 01, 
02, 03, 05 done" so one doesn't need to investigate if a mod applies to 
a certain radio revision. I have not seen any hardware mods for K4 yet, 
so either they aren't happening (lucky!) or this is handled some other 
way. But, if you buy a radio second-hand, a sticker structurally showing 
what mods have been "done" would have been very nice.


Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] Common K3 failure modes???

2022-06-22 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 22/06/2022 02:50, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

With more K3 radios broken on the bench than working at my contest station
(J68HZ)  and NO spare modules to work with,


I am actually wondering about that. One of the magazines I read, the 
German Funkamateur magazine, has a story each month about a group doing 
some DXpedition and nearly every month they report about equipment 
getting broken during such an event. As these things often use Elecraft, 
there are reports of K3's failing.


But I wonder the failure mode because the stories don't report anything 
about that. I know of a few failure modes:
- Diodes at input blown up because of extremely strong signals 
near-frequency. Bandfilters may help, as does careful frequency planning 
and some antenna distance. (ages ago I used a FT747 which uses a light 
bulb as protection - after a heavy radio weekend I had the lightbulb 
open and one of the input coils fused!)
- PA kickback causing the low-power amplifier transistors to fail - 
there has been discussion on the list to add transzorb diodes

- Encoders for filter settings etc may fail - easy to replace
- volume knob was bumped on, causing potmeter broken - just replaced it
- Plastic knobs cracked - partially solved by Elecraft warranty, partly 
solved by buying new ones myself ( with shipping and customs)
- Audio amplifier dying because of a short circuit at the output. There 
is a mod kit for that.


I wonder about other failure modes. How does a K3 die at a contest 
station, or a DXpedition, and what can be done to prevent?

What are the failures on the broken radios you are reporting about?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Service: we hear you

2022-04-22 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 22/04/2022 13:15, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Many of you have already articulated the present challenges we and other 
electronic companies face. It comes down to two things: the design lifetime of 
modern, miniature components like ICs and connectors; and a fickle supply 
chain--one that imploded because of events of the past two years.
I can promise that we'll do everything possible to keep ahead of these issues. 


I think it boils down to two issues, one that Elecraft can cannot fix 
and one that Elecraft can fix and IMHO should fix:


1. People really should try to order some parts - like processors or 
advanced chips. You will be surprised, as I have, that for some trivial 
parts the lead time now can be 18-24 months or more.
If that part is broken on your radio, we should all understand that 
Elecraft cannot fix the radio - for 18-24 months if it is this part that 
has failed. This we cannot blame on Elecraft - no parts == no repair.
At my QRL we recently started paying $1000 for a $35 part through a 
broker because of this mess. For my QRL, the $1000 is feasible - I am 
pretty sure this won't go for an Elecraft radio


2. However, I hear "Elecraft has not touched my radio for XX months". 
That is a problem, and that is something Elecraft should fix.
While I realize that "wait 18 months for part" still won't give cheering 
customers, at least then it is clear that the cause then is the parts 
shortage, not delays in handling.


Personally I've always repaired my Elecraft equipment (K2, K3, P3, KX2, 
KX3 and assorted things) and Elecraft has been good at supplying part 
numbers for over-the-shelf parts. Given the cost of shipping something 
from Watsonville to PA0 (you'd need to mortgage the house!), I am very 
happy with this support.


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] failed K3

2022-02-26 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 24/02/2022 20:58, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

In January in the middle of a QSO, the Elecraft transceiver stopped working. I 
got return authorization and returned the transceiver to Elecraft for service. 
They say that because of the number of units returned to them, it will be 
another 2 months before they can get around to mine. So I'm off the air for 3 
months..
So what to do? 


So, what failed? We're licensed radio amateurs and have done exams on 
radio electronics; hence should know a thing or two about the inner 
workings.


Given that common faults are known and probably have been discussed 
on-list, there are people here who know the radio well and there are 
even the odd comments from techs on this list, I would have not send the 
radio without self-investigating the fault.


I've done repairs on most of my Elecraft kit and in many cases it is 
something simple: connector issue, erratic encoders. Several issues are 
published by Elecraft and you can easily do the re-work tourself. What I 
didn't know I asked and the lists have been good. The one exception is 
that getting Elecraft to fix firmware bugs for older products (K3, P3, 
KX2, KX3) has been difficult; since the software is closed-source this 
is a problem.


If anything, my future interest would be something with the hardware of 
elecraft but using an arrangement where once software development from 
the manufacturer has ended, maintenance can be done using open source.


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K Line: Signal loss in a QSO

2022-01-16 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 16/01/2022 18:40, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.


It actually is in the manual, but not very clearly: K3S rev A1 manual 
page 67 (TXGN parameter), K3 rev D10 manual page 62 (TXGN parameter).


But it is not clear, it is undesired behavior, and it's something that 
can be changed by a simple software fix.


I've added the issue to the list of Elecraft issues:
https://github.com/drewarnett/kx3-firmware-issues/issues

Unfortunately Elecraft has been less than forthcoming addressing any of 
these issues, which in most cases should not be hard to fix.


73, Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] Report on cheap power supply for K2

2021-12-29 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 29/12/2021 04:06, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

A concern might be if the battery is fully charged using the 14 volt supply, 
and then a conventional 13.8 volt supply is accidentally connected with the 
battery turned on in the radio, then the voltage regulator of the conventional 
power supply might get confused.


That should not be the case unless your K2 circuit is modified. D10 on 
the RF board prevents voltage from the battery to reach the DC power 
connector on the back. So there is no voltage from the battery to the 
power connector and the power supply does not get confused.


It is the same D10 that makes power supply selection for charging 
difficult, BTW. In order to get 13.8V on the battery for charging, one 
must pass D10 *and* the resistor in the KBT2 kit. Note that D10 got 
changed to a schottky diode as part of the K2 A-to-B kit. Still, I have 
my K2 power supply set to 14.2V for this reason.


Note that "hey, I found a power supply that doesn't generate noise" for 
me is just one selection criteria for power supplies. Other 
considerations are safety and protection: correct fusing and the like. I 
had a cheap charger explode within 8ft distance in a shack a few years 
ago. The explosion ripped the casing out of the wall socket, ripped the 
casing apart and left the electronics smoldering on the hotel carpet. 
The thing sounded like a pistol shot but didn't even trigger the mains fuse.


My question, then: would you mind if something like this were to happen, 
in your shack, at night, and the resulting situation starting a fire? 
There is a reason that "brandname" power supplies have more protection 
circuitry: if there would be a fire in your shack, then with a brandname 
power supply this is a liability case.

With an Amazon Special, whom would you make responsible?

That is why I either use brandname power supplies or only charge when I 
can attend the charge process. I don't want to badmouth your purchasing 
decision, but perhaps this gives something to ponder.


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 TX audio

2021-12-21 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 21/12/2021 21:30, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

The SSBCAPKT was released November 2004.??? KSB2 kits built before that
had a 2.1 khz filter.
Look at? your KSB2 board.? If CB and CN positions are populated, you
have the narrow 2.1 khz filter width.


On my Rev-A K2, I've changed crystals, changed the filter capacitors for 
2.6kHz, and made the drive modifications from KI6WX (I'm driving 
transverters on 10m).


People complain that the audio doesn't sound right, and the Spectrogram 
grapth is far from flat. I'm OK with RX audio but people complain about 
my TX audio.
Is there any way to make the passband flatter, or to make the audio 
"fuller"?


I am aware that TX and RX can use different filters and adjusted for 
that. I just worry about the TX reports I am getting.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sidetone volume when using Line Out

2021-11-28 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Was operating remote in CQWW using a K3 and RCforB.? I was unable to
adjust the sidetone volume, which I found too loud.? The host is using
Line Out to connect to the sound card, which provides a fixed audio
level.? is there a way to independently adjust the sidetone level via
Line out?


Respectfully adding to Pete's response: "sidetone level on line out" to 
me means the amount of audio on the line out output while you are 
transmitting, to "monitor" your own transmissions.


If this is what you are after, there is ab obscure description in the 
release notes of the K3 5.88 firmware description:


TX LINE OUT (MONITOR) LEVEL NOW ADJUSTABLE:
In CONFIG:LIN OUT menu entry, tap '2'  (REV switch) to set the "T=" 
level (TX monitor). Tap '2' again to return to the RX LINE OUT setting.


Hope this helps,

Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] KX3] KX3: XVn RF and XVn OFS

2021-11-10 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
Keep in mind that if you use the XVn OFS feature on a KX3 (latest 
firmware) and your offset is bigger than 0.66, you trigger a firmware 
bug where the firmware will crash and squeak if power-off and power-on 
the KX3.


Unfortunately, the KX3 is not so nice with transverters; there is a 
longer list: https://github.com/drewarnett/kx3-firmware-issues/issues/
(sent multiple times to support, Eric and Wayne directly; no response, 
and most of the issues should be less than 30 minutes work for someone 
with access to source code, and can be done in full Corona-isolation)


In my case, my transverter-setup is GPS-locked and I don't need the OFS 
feature. But software maintenance to older models doesn't reflect well 
to Elecraft's newest offerings. And that hurts. A lot.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

2021-10-22 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

I do apologize for contributing to this off-topic thread...

A technical issue for cable modems is the uplink.
For downlink, the cable modem system uses one or more "TV channels to 
sends its data on. There is encoding and all that but the signal isn't 
un-like a TV channel.


The uplink is where the problem lies.

Cable modems typically use low frequencies (up to 50 MHz or so) to 
transmit their packets from the enduser modem to the headend. You'd need 
a channel bandwith of 8 MHz or so. Where does a cable operator find a 
clean 8MHz channel under 50 MHz?


Keep in mind that the ingress signal (from the enduser to the headend) 
collects all the RF leakages from the environment. All poor cabling 
together creates a massive reception antenna. And a single strong 
carrier in the channel may block it.
I had a chance to see the upstream spectrum ("ingress signals") and it 
was not a pretty sight.
I know that one local cable operator had to change channels because in 
the evening, strong shortwave broadcast signals leaking in were blocking 
the ingress channel of the cable-TV modems.


For this reason, the ingress system, in the DOCSYS system I looked at, 
was using direct-sequence spread spectrum (DSSS) to "smear" these 
carriers over the spectrum and reduce their impact.


Now, consider very strong carriers on the ingress. Carriers so strong 
that the conversion gain of the DSSS system doesn't help enough. In that 
case, the ingress channel is still fully blocked despite the DSSS measures.


What impact things a lot, of course, is leakly cabling. And from what I 
hear, American cable-TV systems have lots of leakage issues (here in 
PA0, cable systems are underground and are shielded very, very well; any 
leakage here is typically poor enduser cabling).


While the response of the tech is very wrong, perhaps the above explains 
a bit what is happening and the reason for his reaction. If it were me, 
I would see if things can be solved along these lines, considering that 
from what I read in QST, many USA cable-TV systems have a massive, 
massive leaking problem.


In the Netherlands, more and more spectrum is being moved from 
"broadcast TV" / cable-TV to mobile services. Cable-TV signals are now 
on frequencies that are also used by mobile phone users, with 
transmitters (handies) on short distance and hence strong signals.
Suddenly the jammers are not us pesky hamradio guys, but every person 
carrying a mobile phone. And the community now understands that the 
proper fix for this is not banishing the mobiles, but better cabling.
For cable-TV, there are now "kabelkeur" (www.kabelkeur.nl) qualified 
cables that have double shielding, and, more important, good connectors, 
connectors that frankly put the typical hamradio RF connector to shame.


And I wonder how this compares to the situation of the topic starter.
With emotions running high we won't get anywhere, but I hope the local 
ARRL community can step in, find out if my hypothesis is the root issue 
and work from there, considering that proper shielding is a CATV 
operator issue and no-one else's.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 kit tips?

2021-10-01 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Just follow the instructions.? You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.


Are you sure that's Phillips? I use Pozidriv (PZ0) for Elecraft screws 
and find that is a much better fit.


(Either will work, but if you have one of those 100+ screw sets and have 
the choice - consider PZ over PH screwdrivers for electronics)


Yours for screws that are not stripped,

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 RS232 trouble

2021-09-16 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

The problem of using a standard cable with the serial port is not that
it might fail to operate as a serial port, but rather than it might
permanently destroy the (non-RS232) internal signalling within the
transceiver.

...

In fact there seem to be two pins that are used for signals that cannot
tolerate RS232 voltages.


The K2 "A to B mod" has some modifications that at least seem to reduce 
some of the damage. I don't remember it being announced as such, but 
reviewing the mod status of my K2 after some time found some snippets I 
had not seen before.
Things still would not work and I am not sure the K2 is fully protected 
but some protection is added and the damage should be less.


If you still did make the boo-boo, this link from LA3ZA may be useful:
http://folk.uio.no/sverre/LA3ZA/blog/K2/N0SS/k2_wrong_ser_cbl_damage.pdf

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic case

2021-09-04 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Does anyone know if Elecraft sell replacement cases for this expensive 
microphone? I've barely used mine (I'm a CW chap) and it's already fallen 
apart! The three plastic internal mounting pillars have snapped off. I guess 
it's been dropped, but only on to carpet and I'm minded to think a $70 mic 
should easily withstand that.

Last month I emailed Elecraft via their online parts order form, but not had an 
acknowledgement. Maybe they're all on summer leave?


Making forms for plastic moulding is extremely expensive and Elecraft 
did not make one specially for the MH3.


Looking on ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/281509579500 finds a 
microphone that uses the same case. The electronics inside is different 
(and, frankly, the MH3's innards are a lot nicer than these ebay 
microphones) but the casing is the same.

It has a different brand name on the case but that is only a sticker.

You can make these ebay microphones work by changing the wiring a bit, 
especially for the down/up buttonw. The radios these are sold for use 
resistors on the PTT line to signal up and down, on Elecraft they are 
direct connections.

And PTT and audio are on other pins so you need to change that too.

When I have the microphone plug open, I always add a 5K6 resistor 
between the 5V and the mic output in the plug. This power the electret 
microphone irrespective of "mic bias" settings in the menu. And it makes 
the same microphone also usable on the K2 (where the up and down buttons 
don't work, alas).


In defense of Elecraft, yes, their microphones are probably "also made 
in the east" but there is a difference in quality which will be quite 
visible when you compare them. Having said that, an electret microphone 
is an electret microphone and the reports on the air are not different.


And, if the round plug is change for, for instance th Neutrik NTP3RC 
(see https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/ntp3rc) then the same microphone 
will also work on the KX3. You will need to change the wiring to make 
the buttons work but that is not hard.


Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] KX3 "deaf" - suggestions?

2021-07-17 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
When testing my KX3 next to my K3 in a transverter setup, I found that 
the KX3 seemed a bit "deaf".


On the K3 I need to operate the attenuator, but on the KX3 I needed to 
enable the preamp instead and even then, there is very little AGC with 
the signals on the band.


To verify, I did FM SINAD measurements and found that on 10m, the K# has 
-113dBm for 12dB SINAD (which is normal), but the KX3 needed -101dBm for 
12 dB SINAD, so indeed, it seems "deaf".


I removed the transverter option, filter option and the antenna tuner 
option but that did not improve things.


RF output is nominal.

I verified the attenuator as wel as the two pre-amplifiers (10dB and 
20dB) and they seem to do what they need to do.


I suspect an issue in the TX/RX circuitry and perhaps someone else has 
encountered this, or perhaps this is one of the "that is a known 
problem, change these components" from one of the Elecraft techs?


Has anyone seen this?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX light flashing when RTS=PTT

2021-07-12 Thread Geert Jan de Groot



At Field Day this year, the K3 TX light started flashing when we loaded
N1MM to use RTS=PTT to send .wav files.  This only occurs when RTS=PTT is
set on the rig.   I thought it was a bug in N1MM but it also does this 
when

using N3FLP's logger and the flashing corresponds to the polling rate
(which N3FJP allows one to set).


Check whether RTS is active when you powered up the K3. Yaesu radios 
have a similar safety feature (cannot transmit if key is engaged during 
powerup, it avoids the radio immediately transmitting when the 
microphone is jammed under some electronics project or the cat sleeps on 
top of the morse key.


I apologise for replying to my own mail but the exact behavior is 
described in the K3S manual (page 20):


PTT and Keying (via DTR and RTS)
In the K3S, these are not used as serial I/O handshaking lines. Instead, 
the K3S can use these as PTT IN or KEY IN (see CONFIG:PTT-KEY). The 
default for both signals is inactive. Refer to application software 
documentation to determine if it can use RS232 signal lines for PTT or 
keying.


Use these signals with caution. A computer may assert DTR or RTS during 
power-up, causing the K3S to transmit unexpectedly. If a computer or 
other device asserts RTS or DTR while you’re using the PTT-KEY menu 
entry, the K3S will enter TEST mode as a precaution, allowing you to 
change the menu setting if required.



... and test mode shows as the TX light flashing.

So it's even in the manual!

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX light flashing when RTS=PTT

2021-07-12 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




At Field Day this year, the K3 TX light started flashing when we loaded
N1MM to use RTS=PTT to send .wav files.  This only occurs when RTS=PTT is
set on the rig.   I thought it was a bug in N1MM but it also does this when
using N3FLP's logger and the flashing corresponds to the polling rate
(which N3FJP allows one to set).


Check whether RTS is active when you powered up the K3. Yaesu radios 
have a similar safety feature (cannot transmit if key is engaged during 
powerup, it avoids the radio immediately transmitting when the 
microphone is jammed under some electronics project or the cat sleeps on 
top of the morse key.


Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Only 30-metre Band Works

2021-07-02 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Further troubleshooting of my new K2 build reveals that transmit and
receive on the 30-metre band works well. But all other bands, transmit
and receive, don't work.

...

I am trying to think of what's common among all bands except 30 metres,
transmit and receive, where a problem could lie. The fact that 30 metres
works OK confirms that much of the rig is working correctly. Since 30
and 20 metres share a band-pass filter as well as a low pass filter
makes this all the more confusing.


The K2 uses latching relays for band switching (as well as VFO 
switching, ext ant switching and some other things).
So, if your K2 can't drive its relays (or no longer can drive its 
relays) then many things still work, except band switching.


All of this is driven from U1 on the main board.
U1 has a separate voltage regulator, U2. I am pretty sure that the main 
CPU on the control board yells at you if it can't talk to the IO 
controller U1 on the main board. But perhaps the voltage is good enough 
for the controller to work but not for the relays to operate.


If you change bands, do you hear the relays operate? After you change 
bands, after a second or so, you should hear a distinct "lickkk" as 
several relays are changed.
Also, since you are measuring, can you verify that if you change bands, 
the relays switch as expected?


When looking at the 2005 schematics, I see that all relays - even on 
optional modules like the 160m module, have a voltage "RY COM" to switch 
against (mainboard, sheet 3). The schematic says that if one relay needs 
to be operated, all the other relays are pulled in the other direction. 
I would make sure that this "RY COM" isn't grounded or something.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG


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Re: [Elecraft] KXBC3 battery charger

2021-07-02 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




I found it annoying. I had the NiMH batteries in it, charging them up
periodically, until I had an issue with upgrading the firmware. The radio
got stuck in an error mode, and the instructions on the website for dealing
with the problem said to pull the power cable to shut it down
completely...except that it doesn't work if you have the batteries in it.


I have the KXBC3 and I like it, in that I can really take the KX3 and 
move it around like a piece of portable test equipment. Especially given 
the way the KX3 needs to be opened, it would not be nice to have to open 
the KX3 every time the batteries are flat like the KX2 does (the KX2 has 
facilities for this, the KX3 doesn't).


I suspect that a fair number of KX3 users don't use the internal 
batteries at all, use the power plug all that time. I use it too, except 
when I need to run around to measure at a different place - then the 
batteries come to right.


But, not all is good news. Measuring the current during the charge 
process, I don't understand how the KXBC3 can full charge because the 
numbers don't add up. On my 1800 mAh eneloops I should get 8+ hours if 
my KX3 is just pulling 210 mA on receive - I certainly don't get that, 
cells are new.


A second problem is that the KX3 firmware really freaks out if one 
configures the KXBC3 to be installed, and the hardware is missing. There 
is no easy recovery from that (this is on latest firmware).
(there are a few more -documented- KX3 and K3 firmware issues and I'm 
hoping that someone would dive in and address them - should not be more 
than a day of work!)


And, I've had the front panel CPU go weird on me a few times. Given that 
the KX3 doesn't completely switch off - some electrons are needed to 
make the power buttons work! - recovering from the weirdness involved 
removing one battery and disconnecting the flexfoil.
Discussion with Elecraft support is ongoing as to what is causing the 
weirdness - I have a fairly early serial number.


Also, I wonder why the KXBC3 is an option that is sold separately. The 
hardware could have been integrated on the main board and there would 
not have been a mess with additional connectors, etc..
Would you buy a laptop computer if charging its battery requires an 
additional optional module?


73,
Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] Can the K3 make power without activating Key Out?

2021-05-30 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 30/05/2021 19:42, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

The problem could be solved with a toggle switch in the shack opening the PTT 
line, but not for remote.  Thus my question of whether it is possible to get
   RF from the K3 w/o activating PTT.


I wonder if the DIGOUT1 output of the ACC connector can be made to do 
what you want: drive a relay that interrupts the KEYOUT line.


Alternative (and perhaps more expensive): The KPOD has 3 outputs that 
can be switched using serial commands. If you try this, be aware that 
the documentation of the KPOD is (or was) wrong: tip is output3, not 
output1, and vice versa.


If you want to use this to drive a relay you probably want a PNP 
transistor as buffer.


73, Geert Jan PE1HZG
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[Elecraft] [KX3] PRE, ATT, MSG, CLR buttons stopped working..

2021-05-30 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
Hi,

A report on recent events with my KX3:
When I tried to use it yesterday, I found that several buttons
were no longer responding: PRE, ATT, MSG and CLR.

Tried power-off/on, no change. Removed the battaries for 5 minutes, 
no change.

I was able to go to setup and started SW TEST so I could test the 
front panel. Every button and knob was working, except for these four,
which didn't show up with the test.

Looking at the K3 schematics, these buttons all share the same SCAN103 
going to pin27 of U10 on the front panel, the front panel processor. 
Briefly, there is a voltage divider (R81, R80, R90, R89, R96) 
and operating any of the four buttons should switch a different 
voltage to SCAN103. This clearly worked for SCAN100, SCAN101, SCAN102, 
SCAN104 but not for SCAN103. I was worried that the SCAN103 input was zapped.

Looking for people wo encountered this before, I found the blog from OK1RP 
(http://ok1rp.blogspot.com/2019/05/no-response-from-msg-pre-and-attn-keys.html).
On the blog, the solution was to disconnect the flexfoil PCB between
control board and RF board, clean the contacts and re-install.
I checked the connectors - they were seated correctly as predicted in
the blog, I disconnected them, looked for dirty / corroded connectors,
and re-set it, and fortunately the issue was solved.
So, if others encounter this, Petr's blog may help.

But, I still wonder what had happened. The SCAN103 signal is not
connected to said connector and a bad contact cannot affect SCAN103.
SCAN103 only connects said buttons and the CPU, and that is all on
the control panel - no-where near to the interconnect connectors
with the flexfoil.

I wonder if an initialisation issue on the frontpanel processor U10
can have caused this?
Looking closer at the schematic, I see that the SCAN lines are completely
floating if a button isn't pressed. If nu button is pressed, the input
represents a high-impedance floating input. A static field (an operator 
walking to the radi, and, without touching the radio first, opererating
one of the buttons) may perhaps cause an issue setting up the input.
I wonder why these pins don't have 100k to GND or so?

Perhaps the disconnect made power really disappear to do the recovery?
I noticed that my KXBC3 clock was running 20 minutes behind after
the operation - that is the time I worked on the issue, so just removing
the power isn't good enough to really drop all power.

I don't want to badmouth Elecraft, and I don't want to start a war
similar to the "yaesu IF filter discussion" of a few years back,
but I wonder if someone has done a more thorough investigation?
I note that adding resistors is easy (add them at the encoders)
and wonder if this is a change that has been implemented with newer
KX3 builds?

Comments?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

2021-05-09 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 09/05/2021 20:54, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Don, W3FPR used to do much of this work on K2 transceivers, but he has
retired from that role.  Dave, W8FGU has assumed Don's role.  Alan, W3DVX
also provides such services.  Both have posted periodically to this forum.
There may be others who are experienced K2 upgraders, but these are the
folks that come to mind.


I built my KPA100 15 years ago or so and only recently I investigated 
updates. The KPA module has seen a number of design updates over the 
years and it makes sense to investigate. I've updated mine (thanks 
QRP-shop for getting the mod kits in Europe, through Corona times!) and 
at the end of a long evening I have a bag of swapped-out parts and a PA 
that worked quite a bit better, feels like a new unit.


I have not used one of the upgraders (being in Europe, postage and 
customs would probably have me mortgage the house, frankly) but I do 
recommend updating. It is too bad you don't have the setup to do it 
yourself because on K2, these mods really are simple and can be done on 
the kitchen table.


Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] KX3 buzz if power up on transverter band

2021-05-07 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi,

In Aug last year Drew N7DA reported a firmware bug with the KX3 where, 
when using transverters, the KX3 would not work but generate a loud buzz 
after powerup. I've copied the detailed problem report below.


I didn't have that problem until I tripped it during some experiments 
today, and through experimentation I have some additional data points.


In my case, I am using the latest KX3 code available now (2.95/1.52), 
using the KX3 2m transverter (that converts to 6m) to tune a signal on 
10 GHz:

XV6 on
XV6 RF 10489, or 89, or 489, or 9, doesn't matter
XV6 IF 50, or 28, doesn't matter
XV6 PWR 0.1
XV6 OFS 2.3 (Drew had 1.2 in his bug report)
XV6 ADR int.trn0, doesn't matter

The key is the OFS parameter. Set it above 0.66, so 0.67 or higher, then 
when shutting down the KX3 and switching back up the buzz problem 
happens. Setting the offset to 0.66 or lower and the problem isn't there 
(the problem isn't there all the way up to -9.99 kHz offset), but set 
the offset 0.67 or higher, then the buzz problem happens.


I guess I didn't see this earlier because most of my SHF gear is GPS 
locked. For this experiment, I didn't, but clearly one can't use the 
xverter offset feature on the KX3.
We now also know for sure that this isn't a radio-specific issue or 
defect since it reproduces on multiple radios.


Since some of my bugs reported earlier produce both on K3 and on KX3, I 
tried the same problem on K3 - for this specific probleme, it doesn't 
have the issue, it is KX3 specific.


I do hope that Elecraft will, at some point, step away from the KX4 
chaos and spend some time to address these outstanding problems on older 
platforms. For one, they have been reported for years, and since source 
code isn't available, we have no other option to get this fixed.
Since the K4 also is a software radio, abandoning software update (for 
the KX4 or K5?) really reduces the value of the product.

And I think that fixing these bugs can be done in full corona lockdown.

I've added the bugs I know to github 
(https://github.com/drewarnett/kx3-firmware-issues/issues)


Since Drew's report is old, I'm copy-ing it below for reference.

Geert Jan

---
Drew Arnett
Wed Aug 19 10:49:08 EDT 2020

Hi,

Weird problem.  Anyone else try this and do or don't see this?

Just got my KX3 back from repair.  This included an upgrade to the
latest firmware.  (Makes sense.  Requirement for production test.  I
hadn't upgraded to the very latest, because I had no need for the
latest improvements.)

Set the radio back up for 10368 to 50 MHz transverter use on XVTR1
band.  Now, if I power up the radio when it was shut down on the XVTR
band, there is a crazy loud buzz on the audio output (and
corresponding response of the S meter.)  If I switch to any other
non-XVTR band and then power up, no problem even if switching then to
the XVTR band.

FW is now 2.90/1.52I got the radio back just before the 10 GHz
contest, so only made minimal changes to settings from the cleared
state it came back in.  Changes made:
AFX mode off (was delay)
ATU bypass (can't remember if it came back this way or not.  XVTR is
good 50 ohm load.)
BAT CHG off (was not inst)
BKLIGHT off (was on)
MIC BIAS off (I think came back on; used dynamic mic during contest)
MIC BTN Ptt (was up/down)
TX DLY 10 (was 5.  abundance of caution as 5 is more than enough for
the 10 GHz rig I'm running)
XV1 on
XV1 RF 10368
XV1 IF 50
XV1 PWR 0.1
XV1 OFS (set in field) 1.20
XV1 ADR trn1
set the clock.  :-)
turned on the hidden in the menus CW-in-SSB feature

I know I turned on or off a couple of front panel things as they left
it.  Don't remember.  Stuff like vox, pre, nr or nb.  Definitely
adjusted mic gain and compression and keyer speed.  :-)

RX ISO changed to on during the contest, but problem occurs with it on 
or off


What does the headphone jack output look like?  Power up in bad state.
Set volume control to 20.  With no load other than 10X scope probe,
the AC component is identical for left and right.  Tip has about 0 V
DC offset.  Ring has about + 0.5 V DC offset.  AC component looks like
a the differential of a square wave.  Peak to peak amplitude is 220
mV.  (This follows volume control.  Didn't check to see if DC offset
follows volume control.)  12.2 millisecond repetition rate for
positive and negative pulses.  Negative pulse leads positive pulse by
2.2 ms, so 10 ms from positive pulse to negative.  Very small AC
ripple on that with a period of about 0.4 ms.

I was very happy to find a sequence to avoid the problem (as described
above.)  To trouble shoot, I tried to rule out a number of things.
Unplugged ALL cables from the KX3.  That did not resolve.  Tried
external 12.4 V (battery on hand) and internal battery removed.  Tried
internal battery (charged) and nothing plugged in.  No dice.

Given that it's just back from repair, that sequencing gets it in a
bad state, FW was upgraded to a new version, and audio path goes
through FW, seems reasonable to ask if this is a known FW 

[Elecraft] Elecraft K3/P3 last-time order

2021-04-20 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

I received a mail from Elecraft sales pointing to
https://elecraft.com/pages/k3-k3s-options

This is the next step for the last-time K3/P3 order - order what you 
want now or forget it!


Judging by the questions on list many people will still want to order 
something - this is the last chance..


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] Inventorying a K3/P3

2021-03-30 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi,

First off, sorry for your loss.


As to options, and especially modifications, I very much would like 
Elecraft to give each modification a number so there can be a sticker in 
a radio that says:


This radio has the following modifications: 01, 02, 03, 04, 06, 08, 12.

That would make these things much easier.

For K2, K3, and the KX-en too late, but perhaps for the K4 this can and 
should be done?


Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] Questions on KXBC3 charging mechanism

2021-03-27 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi,

Searching the web and searching the mail archive didn't find the result 
I was looking for, but I found a number of broken links pointing to 
now-defunct Yahoo groups on this matter..


I'm confused on the charging method used on the KXBC3 charger.
The standard low-current charge method for NiMH is "14 hours, 0.1C", so 
in the case of my 1900mAh eneloops, 14 hours of 190 mA. The KX3 manual 
doesn't say much, but the KXBC3 manual specifies a 200mA charge current.
That would suggest that 14-16 hours should give a full charge without 
too much overcurrent.


However, while charging I noticed that the KX3 draws close to 500mA, so 
I am not sure. Given that normal receiver operation draws 200mA, I fail 
to see how this would work with 200mA charge current - numbers don't add up.


I looked at the schematics. There is a low-drop voltage regulator (U2, 
LT1965) that seems to be used as current source. The regulator can be 
controlled via pin6 (shutdown pin). The voltage regulator supplies 2 
resistors R8 and R9 (12E each). The 3.3V output voltage over the 
resulting 6E resistance suggests a current source of roughly 500mA, 
which is closer to my measurements. There is an additional 20E resistor 
R10 which is switched using Q1 which would drive the current up to 710mA.


However, even being "low voltage drop" the regulator would need 3.3V 
input voltage and likely a little more, say 4V. Batteries on their way 
charging have a voltage of 10.5V, which means that this circuit alone 
needs 14.5V input voltage to function, but the charger is specified . So 
the current source can't give full current because the input voltage is 
too low to function.


Also, the charge time isn't 14 hours, but selectable 4, 8, 12, 16 hours. 
I don't see how that would work - people doing 2850mAh cells, as 
reporting on the reflector, won't be able to get a full charge even 
after 16 hours, not with the 200mA specified in the manual. And what are 
the 4 and 8 hour charge settings for?


I guess the figures really don't add up and I don't understand how this 
is supposed to work. Can someone enlighten me?


73,

Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] Diode 95SQ015 end-of-life (K2 D10)

2021-03-20 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
The high-current low-drop diode 95SQ015, used in the K2 (it replaced 
D10, SB530, because of it's favorable voltage drop) seems to be out of 
production and out of stock in the likes of Mouser, Digikey and 
Farnell/Newark.


I hoped the component was just replaced by a SMD version but that 
doesn't seem to be the case. From what I can see, low-drop diodes exist 
but not with the current ratings that the 95SQ015 has.


Has anyone found a replacement?

Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] status of bugs on existing Elecraft models?

2021-03-01 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
Apologies for resend; used wrong email address for sending to list and 
was rejected, but I want my bugs fixed ;-)


This should be working and we should be responding. We?re looking 

into it.

Meanwhile: what?s your question? I?m always available


May I use the query on KX3 transverter bugs to ask the status of bugs on
the K3/K3s?

Here, too, transverters give issues. I have configured a transverter
band (for oscar-100), and subsequently disabled the HF bands
(CONFIG:BAND MAP OFF for all the HF bands). Now, the K3 shows erratic
behavior: when on he transverter band, instead of the BAND buttons being
inactive, BAND UP switches to 80m (which was disabled), and BAND DOWN
switches to 20m (which was also disabled). Enabling any HF band makes
this problem go away, but this allows accidental transmitting on antenna
ports that are not connected.
This was reported several years ago, never solved.

Another issue is with the P3. One of the command keys, scroll lock, is
only available on a regular-size keyboard,, not on a compact keyboard.
And a compact keyboard saves a lot of real estate on the operating desk.
Defining an alternative keystroke would enable use of compact keyboards
and is a trivial change.

These problems were reported several years ago. I know the focus is on
the K4 but these issues should not be hard to fix, not even with Corona
restrictions...

Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question (KUSB and KIO2)

2021-02-27 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of 
your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some 
of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your 
K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2 
suffers because of this; it's a long list


Apologies for replying to my own post - didn't want Dave to sustain any 
more damage! - but for those who have done the unthinkable and connected 
a regular RS232 device to KIO2,
https://folk.universitetetioslo.no/sverre/LA3ZA/blog/K2/N0SS/k2_wrong_ser_cbl_damage.pdf 
should be helpful information.


Step 10 of the K2 "Upgrading the elecraft K2 to revision B" document on 
the Elecraft website has a valuable step that I missed when I did other 
upgrades.


BTW, if your K2 is the 10W version, you don't use the RS232 port and you 
don't have the "K2 amplifier keying circuit" that can be found on the 
Elecraft website, it is possible to put that circuit inside a DE9 
connector hood: have a DE9-M connector that plugs in the KIO2, and a 
cable to key your amplifier. I added another transistor to switch a 
small LED so that the connector now lights up when the K2 is 
transmitting. I use this to key a chain of transverters for the QO100 
satellite. And it avoids drilling a hole for the PTT key plug.


73,

Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question (KUSB and KIO2)

2021-02-27 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2?  Should have asked this before I
bought the cable.  My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
So I went with the KUSB.  When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
Power control turned all the way down results in a nice 10 watt output  and
normal operation.  When Power control is turned up I get a HiCurr and LoPWR
error and the display only shows power, not frequency.


Please read the KIO2 documentation: any serial device may only be 
connected *if only pin 2, 3, 5* are connected. If you connect a serial 
device with the other pins connected, which the KUSB as well as most 
other devices have, *you can cause serious damage to your K2*.


It is essential that the other pins are left unconnected, they are used 
for other signals and the RS232 signals give voltages that cause damage.


So, if you use the KUSB, make sure to insert a short cable that ONLY 
connects these 3 wires, NOTHING ELSE.


How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of 
your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some 
of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your 
K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2 
suffers because of this; it's a long list


Despite the fact that the KIO2 sports a DE9 connector, it really isn't a 
standard serial port. In hindsight, Elecraft should have chosen a DE15 
connector instead (making sure that a "VGA cable" would not cause 
damage. Ah well, too late now..


73, Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2

2021-01-13 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




Tom - I will give you some unsolicited advice-


Another point of consideration is that the KRC2 is programmable, but the 
programming code is old and doesn't run on today's platforms.


"KRC2 Firmware Loader Supported Platforms Available for Windows 98, 
2000, ME, XP" - that's a while back.


I understand if Elecraft doesn't want to maintain these and wants to 
focus on newer products, but publishing the interface would allow 
someone else to step up and create a new tool. And today's new product 
will be obsolete in the future, and having interfaces published 
increases the value of the product.


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 audio output question

2021-01-04 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 04/01/2021 04:13, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Is there a way to have both headphones and external speaker active at the
same time?  I'm thinking of being able to have audio for visitors while
still using headphones to copy.


In addition to Don's response, you may want to look at this:
https://www.w8fgu.com/pics/k2faob/w3fpr_K2%20audio%20Fix.pdf
http://www.w3fpr.com/download_files/FP-CB%20mounting%20photos.pdf

I have done this, using a piece of perfboard.
To avoid shorts, in my case the PCB is in a piece of heat shrink tube.

If you want a kit, check out https://www.w8fgu.com/k2_fixedaudio.html

Instead of perfboarding it, I should have bought a kit from Dave, but 
sending a parcel by mail to PA0 would need me to mortgage my house, not 
to mention a lot of patience (another PCB ordered recently was stuck for 
*nine months* in Chicago).


The advantage is that the 2nd output is fixed audio volume, so you can 
adjust the speaker audio and the headset audio separately.


In my case (connecting multiple headsets on the speaker output) this 
approach has another advantage: I added audio sidetone to my K2 so that 
the people using headphones can hear eachother speak, yet the 
fixed-audio output doesn't have this, so there is no feedback from the 
speaker.


When you use a speaker, make sure you use one that works well for SSB 
audio. For visitors, I would consider making some headsets available 
instead. SSB-via-speaker is more difficult to decode, SSB-via-speaker 
for people without SSB ears will just result in "there was a guy playing 
radio noise" at the exhibition.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PA kit (was: K2 purchase considered)

2020-11-21 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 21/11/2020 04:04, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

I think Dave W8FGU might have some Fixed Audio Out and PTT Kits for Sale.

I can confirm that W8FGU has the "K2 T-R External Relay Driver Board Kit"
available on his website w8fgu.com.  It's a nice little kit, easy
build/install, and Dave was a pleasure to work with.


If you have a K2/10 with KIO2, then you can put the PA key kit inside 
the housing of a DE9 connector. No need to drill holes: all the magic is 
in the cable connecting to the "AUX IO" connector.


I added another transistor and a LED to verify working of the PTT cable. 
It all fits on a small piece of perfboard inside the housing of the 
connector.


As to K2 vs other radios, I find I prefer the K2 to the K3 for sat work 
 because the K3 has rather more birdies on 10m. But I do 
agree:important bit of the fun of the K2 is to build and modify it.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

2020-10-15 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

On 15/10/2020 18:37, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?
Or any information where is possible to find it ?


Last year, I found a kit offered by WB3AAL and I ordered. Unfortunately, 
I learned later that Ronald became SK in 2018, but the order page was 
still up at the time I ordered and I didn't find his passing on the 
reflector either.


I think many people enjoy the kits Ronald made and I am very sorry to 
have learned that I was too late. At least, if you "find" the kit 
offering, you know not to try this.


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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Re: [Elecraft] 2 different 144MHz transveters and CAT selection

2020-09-06 Thread Geert Jan de Groot




I have an unusual situation in that I have 2 different 2m transverters
attached to my K3S.
One system is a dual channel ME2T-XP and uses the SUB RX, this is only used
for EME and it designated XV1.
The second is used on tropo/terrestrial DX and contests and is an
ME2T-ProII, this is XV2.

If I use WSJT-X and use CAT I have a problem in that a CAT selection for
144MHz always chooses XV1 which is not what I want at all most of the time.
There are gain and LO offset configurations that mean that using a switch in
the IF is not ideal.

Currently my solution is to set the RF frequency for XV1 to 70 MHz
temporarily which always confuses me when I want to go on 2m EME. What would
be ideal would be some way of setting the CAT XV priority from the front
panel. I think that this must be a firmware update, its an easy one but of
course would be low down the list.


Using a K3 for QO100 operation, I set the display to 89. MHz, not 
10489. MHz. Easier to type, and the frequency display doesn't get 
clobbered by useless digits. If I go to fine tune mode, the frequency 
still fits on the display.


In similar vein, you could consider defining one of the transverters as 
44.xxx MHz instead of 144.xxx MHz. I expect CAT will work then?


But, I have my gripes with K3 and transverters.
The K3 firmware is buggy: if you only define transverter bands to work 
on and switch off the HF bands, then the band-up and band-down switch 
behaves strange, selecting bands that I disabled (80m and 10m, both 
disabled). It should switch between transverter bands but doesn't.
I reported this quite a while back but no planning was given to fix this 
(a trivial fix, especially useful for people using transverters)
I wonder if Elecraft will ever fix this (given that all effort is now on 
K4), and frankly this doesn't bode well for the K4: if there is a K5, 
will the K4 stop getting fixes?


Also, given that Elecraft stopped making transverters a long time ago, 
I'm hoping they will make the contents of U4 of the XV series available. 
This would allow my transverters to talk to the K3 using the AUX bus, 
and I can think of a few ways where this would improve integration.


I've considered reverse-engineering but apart from Elecraft probably 
frowning on that, haven't had the time (yet). But, don't knock it, this 
is how the DSP option became available for the K2...


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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[Elecraft] Question on K4 mod administration

2020-08-19 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

Hi,

As many folks are shedding a K3, it is currently possible to pick one up 
for not too high cost.


One issue though is that there have been a fair number of modifications 
on K3 - in itself not a problem as they made the machine better. But 
buying a machine now keeps you wondering what modifications have been 
done - if it means adding a board it is obvious, but "change restore XX 
to YY" much less so.


So, I wonder, for K4, would Elecraft *number* their modifications as 
they come out, and provide a sticker inside: "this K4 mas mod 4, 6, 7 
applied" would make things easier I think?


Geert Jan
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Re: [Elecraft] SP3 A/B Switch Problem (IK4EWX)

2019-12-26 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

  I had the same problem about one years ago. I have two SP3 loudspeakers, on
on each receiver or both speakers, ore one receiver with the K3S audio
effects that use both loudspeakers.
The switch scratched when changing channel and it attenuated the audio
signals.


Keep in mind that the SP3 speaker switches only switch speaker signal.
You Cannot Switch A Small-signal With A Switch.
Switches need a little DC (1mA probably sufficient) to "burn clean" the 
contacts.


I suspect that a 10K resistor from the speaker output to +12V will cause 
the desired 1mA to do the cleaning.
Looking at the schematics, this isn't easy because R1 and R63 on the 
K3IO board are in the way. So, you need to add a bipolar capacitor in 
series, and resistors to +12V to make it happen. Don't be surprised if 
operating the switch will "click" a bit but 1mA is well within safe 
limits for the speaker.


If you don't want to do through this, disconnect the K3, connect the 
same 10K resistor and operate the switch a few times.


Elecraft isn't the only to make this design mistake - I have some Yaesu 
speakers that did suffer the same problem and that were remedied the 
same way.


Since the K4 comes with a SP4 speaker that looks similar - I wonder if 
this design issue was addressed for the K4?


73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem (vfoB knob problem)

2019-10-25 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
The A and B knob each have identical encoders that use plug-in boards to 
the front panel PCB. Chances are that the encoder isn't connected 
anymore (got loose).


Opening up the front panel should tell. Note that the A and B encoder 
are identical so you can swap them for testing.


Note that assembly of the front panel is quite fussy with distance 
rings, etc. You are well advised to keep notes of how the front panel 
was assembled when you take it apart. It also makes sense to have the 
assembler's manual at hand.


Recent adventures with swapping parts on an older K3 learned that the B 
encoder sits in a little deeper with the new VFO-B knob. As a result, in 
my case, the solder pins were touching (scratching) the front panel PCB. 
I fixed this by cutting the jumper pins flush and putting in some 
isolation, just to be sure.


I don't expect any broken parts, but some disassembly required. When you 
disassemble / re-assemble, be GENTLE with the volume knobs, they are 
known to split on older serial numbers.


Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] K3 VFO-B knob replacement notes

2019-10-14 Thread Geert Jan de Groot



Hi,

Recently I purchased a K3 and found I need to give it some love as it 
has been a bit behind on maintenance.


One of the issues is that the VFO B knob has cracked. This is Elecraft 
part number E980090, listed as K3 spare part.


Unfortunately, that knob is no longer available, and here is where the 
fun starts.


What is sent instead, is Elecraft part E980275. Both E980090 and E980275 
are listed but only E980275 is available.

The replacement knob is smaller, the old knob is 1 3/8", the new knob is 1".

Just replacing the knob won't work because the felt washer sticks out.

Also, the encoder is too long and the new knob sticks out - the felt 
washer doesn't work.


Called Elecraft sales and there is some confusion.

The errata of the build instruction of the K3S (not K3) explains what 
has happened:

- The new knob is smaller
- it needs a different felt washer, replace E700033 with E700416
- the encoder needs an additional lock washer, E700150.
- So, if you order a replacement, order all of this and plan to have to 
take the front panel apart.


None of this is on the elecraft website. I also did not find anything in 
the reflector archives. And it's not in the K3 documentation, only the 
K3S documentation.


This is kind of painful, since in addition to the price of the spare 
parts I ordered to get the K3 up to date ($173) I spent $80 on shipping, 
customs and postal admin overhead and I now find I have an incomplete 
mod kit.


I will need to cut the wrongly-ordered felt washer to size and find a 
replacement lock washer to make the encoder sink deeper to match the new 
knob.. Again, this isn't listed in the spare parts on the website or on 
the reflector; it is now documented on the reflector, at least.


Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] K3 and VHF/UHF add-ons

2019-10-09 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

[Note - slight twist on the subject line]

As to using the K3 for VHF/UHF work, I recently tried to configure a K3 
with just the UHF band on it - all of the HF bands mapped out because 
the unit doesn't have a HF antenna connected and it would avoid operator 
mistakes.
So, just one of the TRN bands configured and only having that band in 
the band map, all the regular HF bands disabled using CONFIG:BND MAP


This, however, triggers a firmware bug on the K3 with latest firmware 
(5.67): the BAND switch will switch to either 80m or 10m, depending on 
whether I press the DOWN or UP button. And that is with the 80m and 10m 
band disabled.


This has been called in though channels and it's not the end of the 
world but there doesn't seem to have been a release, not even beta, 
since January. I hope Elecraft will find the cycles to make what seems 
to be a trivial fix.


BTW, I did find it beneficial to configure the K3 to display 89 MHz 
instead of 10489 MHz. This way, the frequency digits don't jump around 
when you switch from COARSE to FINE.


73,
Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 and KAT2 (was: Barebone K2 Amplifier?)

2006-12-08 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
On Fri, 8 Dec 2006 04:03:03 -0500 (EST)  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If only the firmware could determine when it was connected to 
 the KPA-100/KAT-100 or not and return control to the KAT-2.  
 (Sorry Wayne g.)

It kind of does.
Upon detection of a KAT2 (in K2 enclosure), and KPA100/KAT100 
(in EC2 enclosure), the firmware will switch the KAT2 in through
mode (CALP), antenna port 1. Any tuning / antenna port selection will
only drive the KAT100.

Switch off the K2, disconnect, and your KAT2 will function as it
used to.

There's several minor glitches, though:
- The 2nd port of the KAT2 is no longer accessible.
  It would be nice to switch between ANT1 (KPA100/KAT100), 
  ANT2 (KPA100/KAT100), and ANT3 (KAT2, port 2), so that the latter
  can be used for a transverter
- Under some circumstances, the KAT2 remains stuck in CALP mode
  when the KAT100/KPA100 is disconnected.
  It is easy to set it back to AUTO mode, you just have to remember.

Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] Re: RoHS

2006-09-05 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

It's not just a matter of using different solder.

The new solders have a higher melting point and hence need a hotter
soldering iron; typical 50W WECP/WTCP won't do because, while they
have the temperature, they lack capacity at those high temperature - 
they can't heat the joint quickly enough.
You'll need the newer 80W soldering stations or risk cold joints.
There's a reason the older 50W stations are available so cheaply
these days.

The new soldering iron comes with a tip that has a thicker ironized coat
as the new solders corrode tips a lot faster.

Forget about using a wet sponge. Because of the higher temperature,
wiping on a wet sponge would cause too big a temperature jump
and hence you'll need to wipe on a special tool.
Note that the routine differs: wipe, wet, solder, wipe, wet, 
back to holder.

The new tools together cost about half a K2.
Note that it's important not to contaminate your RoHS-tools with
your older tools: small pieces of lead will change the
composition of the alloy, greatly reducing reliability.

The higher melting temperature means that un-doing a component
is more difficult, with a higher chance of PCB damage,
certainly with less experienced builders (not everyone has
a space qualification, I don't).

Because the new solder's wetting characteristics are a lot worse,
I'm concerned about stripping and wetting toroids with lead-free
solder.
Wel all know that not everybody is fully successful wetting and
stripping toroids as-is. Just ask Gary, who, I'm sure, is not looking
forward to higher warranty claim percentages because of doubtful
toroid stripping with lead-free solders.

Note that some new alloys have a tendency to form bridges (shorts)
after a number of years. Not a problem for a toy that gets discarded
after 2 years, but big problem for a tranceiver which typically 
has a lifetime of 20-30 years.

We all see the cheerful messages from people who haven't soldered
in over 20 years or so, and are now getting back to kitting.
Lead-free soldering is a lot less forgiving to new, but unexperienced
builders as it is intended to be used in tightly controlled circumstances.
(we all know that with a WTCP and leaded solder it's difficult to
go wrong).

While I realize that it's less environmentally friendly, I think
that using leaded solder, for a large percentage of 
the building population, will have enough advantages that we should
make use of the exception to the rules that was given to us kit-ters.

I agree with Elecraft that the change should not be made lightly,
and not just by using different solder. They suffer the consequences
of a lower yield percentage, and I don't think anyone would want that.

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
K2#1981, not RoHS-compliant, sorry!

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[Elecraft] Re: network equipment noise (was: Wireless Router Recommendations)

2006-07-10 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
 I have a Linksys WRT54G which is about three years old. It produces so much
 noise that I can't even listen to the local BCB station on 700KHz.

Try to configure all your ports to be 10 mbit ethernet, not 100 mbit.
With some equipment, you can configure ports this way, 
with other equipment, you can configure the link partner 
to be this way, and with bad luck you'll need an old 10mbit-only hub.

Chances are it makes a difference. 100BASE-TX uses signalling that
uses a wide spectrum, 10BASE-T is manchester encoding which spikes
every 5 MHz and in some cases I was able to fix noise problems
this way.

Oh, and you did try to disconnect all ethernet wires to see if it
makes a difference, yes?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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[Elecraft] Re: Ether Nets and Interferrence, redux

2006-01-01 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
 After returning from a rather long hiatus from ham radio, I discovered an
 obscene amount of interference on the ham bands.  I later learned that it
 was largely the result of 6 Ethernet'ed computers in the house with cat 5
 wiring running all over, and 3 runs going through the ham shack.

In addition to what has been written already (make note of comments on
noisy wall warts and other power supplies!), I should note that classic
10 Mbit ethernet uses 5 MHz machester encoding.
This means that one only sees spikes every 5 Mhz (with sidebands, alas).

100BASE-TX, because of it's encoding, is a lot wider and hence a lot
noisier.

If you don't need 100 Mbit speed to talk to that 2 Mbit ADSL modem,
then you may want to consider setting up a 10 mbit network.

Does the trick every time in ad-hoc setups like with JOTA.

Don't throw out the 'old' 10 mbit hubs, and when you do,
give them to a fellow ham fore safe-keeping.

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG
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[Elecraft] Re: Sad day...

2005-07-21 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

I'm pretty sure the list moderator has something to say about the
flare of m*rse messages on this list.

Myself, I built several transceivers (not kits - own design, from scratch),
built several repeaters, including SHF (again, from parts, 
not a modified mobile), built many circuits with PIC controllers
(obviously, writing the software myself, and find that too many
locals know how to find me when their equipment breaks, for
advice, documentation, tools, equipment, and in many cases, hands.

I'm reasonable sure that many vocal brass pounders don't have these
qualifications.

But I try to be respectful to everyone and try to help when people
come to me with questions. That, gentlepeople, is what ham radio
is all about: helping and educating eachother.
Feelings of superiority to others is not on that list.

Can we please get back to the scheduled discussions on Hakko tool mods?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 in EC2 question - any reverse steps?

2005-06-06 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
 My question is this. If I follow the KAP100 manual will I have to 
 reverse any of the steps from this point on if I will be using the amp 
 externally? Good advice on the reflector seems to be to build the amp, 
 remove the current K2 top with the battery and AT etc and check out all 
 amp functions as if the final product would be a K2/100.

I have (this is from memory, so pls check):
- installed an IC socket instead of the RS232 driver, and left
  the driver chip out. The KPA100 can't do any RS232 conversion
  in this config, and letting the chip out makes cabling a little easier.
- Left out the speaker and replaced it with a piece of black plastic,
  again, no need, and I'm saving the LSP as I'm considering putting 
  the LSP in front of the KAT/KPA box; the LED display isn't very 
  informative and I'd like to see what sound I get with speaker in front.
  (Eric says won't be good and I haven't tried).
- Not installed the DB9 connector on the KAT100. The KAT100/KPA100 box
  only needs one DB9 connector, the other connector enclosure hole
  is filled up with a blind panel.
- The KAT100 gets it's AUXbus signalling from the flatcable between
  KPA100 and KAT100.

Should you ever want to install the KPA100 in the K2 itself,
then you can just socket the RS232 chip. The KAT100 is 
useless w/o KPA100 counterpart, but in my case I've *never*
felt a need to transplant the KPA100; I don't even have the right
shielding for it.

Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] Re: power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question

2005-05-10 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

 I would like to have one power cord with a  Y connection to the KPA100 -
 and have the KAT100 get it's power internally in the EC2 from the KPA/100. I
 would like to be able to have all three modules (the K2, the KPA100, and
 KAT100) turn on via the front on/off switch on the K2.

Note that the KAT100 has an internal power connector, as well as
the small, round connector on the back like the K2 has.
This gives possibilities for people with KAT100/KPA100-in-one-box
like myself.

I changed the KAT100 a bit so that:
- Power to the whole setup enters via the KPA100, via the powerpole plugs
- The KAT100 is powered through the internal connection between the 
  KPA100 and the KAT100
- The KAT100 is modified so it _gives_ output power via it's small
  round plug on the back. I put a diode in for safety (as well as
  a fuse).
- The K2 is powered from this KAT100 plug using a simple jumper cable
  connecting the round connectors of the K2 and the KPA100/KAT100 box.

So, to connect the two boxes holding the three units, I only have
4 cables:
- From the powersupply to the PowerPole connectors on the KPA100
- Three jumper cables (power, RF, AUXbux) between the K2 and the
  KPA100/KAT100.
... and that is all. 

Note that the KAT100 and KPA100 are always powered this way, but 
shut themselves down if the K2 is off. This is how the design
is intended, and 'off' still means 'off'.

The good news is that the power sequencing requirements are met
so that the whole setup powers up correctly.
Also, current requirements on the K2 itself are low enough that
this just works, and works well. It also minimizes on ground loops.

Just a thought,

Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] Re: Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems

2005-05-09 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
On Mon, 9 May 2005 04:01:50 -0400 (EDT)  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
After setting up the TRN3 and/or TRN6 parameters in the K2 and returning to
normal operation, as soon as VFO knob turned the frequency on the display 
go to
what seems to a randome one, AND VFO input is ignored (?) as dispaly is
locked.  Other TRN bands (TRN1, 2, 4, 5) work OK.
 I have not seen this problem quite as described, and am running the latest 
 firmware in the QRP configuration with internal tuner.   One thing that 
 might be happening is the initial displayed frequency might be uninitialized 
 so is randomly set out of band.  Try to use the direct frequency input 
 method to set the expected frequency.  (Band- and + together, enter digits).

Having done some experiments over the weekend myself, I definitely
found that the K2 gets confused if you change the RF frequency,
or the IF frequency.

Repeat-by: set TRN1 for 144 MHz, IF 28 MHz. Manual-enter 144.000 MHz,
Change the IF to 14 MHz. Note that the display is now off, and 
the PLL is out of band (and probably out of lock, alas).

Workaround: Manual-enter the start frequency after setting up
a transverter band. Do this on both VFO's!

I don't know what code space we have in the main MCU these days
(this has been a stumbling block from 1.x to 2.x firmware, and AFAIK
code size issues are preventing some other things from being implemented),
but IMHO it would be good if the K2 would auto-reset both VFO's
if either the RF frequency, or the IF settings change.

Geert Jan

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[Elecraft] K2 feature request

2004-11-13 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

I have a request for a K2 feature. I have a K2 with KPA100 and KAT100
in separate EC2. Currently, if the KAT100 is installed, the KAT2
just switches to through mode (CALP), fixed to ant1.

I recently bought an amp and find that neither the amp, nor a
typical antenna, is cleanly 50 ohms and hence there's work for
the tuner. If I enable the amp, I need to autotune to the 
input impedance of the amp, if I leave it offline, I need to
tune to the impedance of the antenna. This requires two
different tuner settings.

I note that the KPA100 has a separate pin to drive the PA key line
which means that, through software, the K2 can 'know' whether
or not it puts the amp in-line: if the software doesn't key 
the key line, you're running barefoot.

Instead of the current two antenna settings, I believe more
choices are possible:
A. KPA100/KAT100, ANT1, key PA line
   This is the normal case and puts the PA in-line.
B. KPA100/KAT100, ANT1, don't key PA line
   This leaves the PA in through mode and makes the thing run
   barefoot. Note that the K2 needs separate KAT100 settings for
   A and B as one is obviously driving different things
C. KPA100/KAT100, ANT2
   I've found that using two antennas sometimes helps,
   I've ran with a quad and a W3DZZ
D. KAT2 ANT2, no KPA100/KAT100
   For transverters and the like

I note that the various SWR bridges have outputs that can be three-stated,
just like currently happens. I really, really want more flexability
in my antenna settings. Also note that all four settings would
need separate, to-be-memorized tuner settings.

Oh, and when you'd hack on the antenna selector code, perhaps
the code can be improved: sometimes the KAT2 is stuck in CALP mode
after attaching a KPA100 at a previous session. It would be nice
if it would switch back to regular AUTO mode if the KPA100 isn't there.

What do others think?

Geert Jan PE1HZG


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[Elecraft] Re: KPA100 + KAT100-2 in an EC2 enclosure

2004-09-22 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
One more comment: don't install the RS232 driver chip of the KPA100,
only of the KIO2. This way, the cable between K2 and KPA100 and
RS232 PC can be made symetrical

I've also made small mods to the KAT100 (changed the diodes)
so that the small round plug can be used to feed the K2. 
Now, there are three cables between K2 and KPA100 to connect all: 
coax (RF), DE9B (auxbus etc), power, no separate cable needed.

Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] Re: ham gear and airports

2004-07-07 Thread Geert Jan de Groot

 I recently took a trip and did not take my KX1 because I was concerned about
 potential problems at the airports.  I would like to hear about the
 experiences of others who have traveled by plane with ham equipment.
...
 Hoping that it won't be ''confiscated'' in some european airport 
 I will pass trough. 

Over the years, before and after 911 I've travelled with lots and lots
of equipment (that included 2 pieces w/ 100 Lbs each, fully packed
with electronics, and clothes only as padding to the equipment, 
on a route Amsterdam, USA, Japan, and vice versa..)

I never had a problem, but follow these basic rules which are really
common sense:
- sharp objects should be checked in
  (so should things which can be construed as such).
  Image you want to cut something, stab something or club something,
  using your amateur radio gear. If you can find a way to do that,
  chances are that a security guy thinks the same, in that case
  check it in!)
- gear with battaries should preferrably be in the hand luggage,
  and secured against accidental power-on (so _disconnect_ and _isolate_)
  that battary. In general, think what a fire caused by short circuit
  can cause and isolate and pack properly.
- Note that some people think that lead-acid cells are not allowed
  (K2_BAT!) even though some types are approved. 
  As I can see the problem with acid gell loose in your luggage,
  I always removed those. 
- I always announce to the security guys that this is a lot of
  electronics and you probably want to inspect this.
  They seldom do. 
  By doing this, you set their expectation level, and that's good
  because you really don't want to surprize security folk.
  If they do inspect, just cooperate and explain.
- Think what a security guard might see in something,
  and pack accordingly.
  (if it can be used for stabbing, cutting, clubbing, check it!)

In general, I have found USA airports the most paranoid and underterministic,
while most European airports are thorough but have clear policies
and can be reasoned with.

Nobody is interested in confiscating your equipment as it's not
worth anything: it doesn't look like a camcorder (and don't pack it
in a camcorder bag!). People are interested in you not being able
to pull stupid stunts mid-air, or have your equipment pull
a stupid stunt on you by inadvertently switching on, catching fire
or anything.

Also, checking stuff in in foreign airports is not a big deal.
I've lost my luggage more often on flights to the USA, than
flights to developing countries in Africa.
(but USA airports, understandably, have better procedures
to file claims etc, so label your stuff over and over.)

Can we go back to the scheduled discussions on Hakko tools?

73, 
Geert Jan PE1HZG

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