Grant Youngman wrote:
Too good!! :-)
And too true!
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The biggest problem with kit building is that you typically get done far
too quickly. That leaves you feeling empty and yearning for yet more
kits to build, and on and on...
73,
Mike KW1ND
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Good evening, Steve. As for item #2, you'll likely find that even with
a 100 AH battery, the voltage will drop rather quickly at 100 watts.
And as the voltage drops, the current consumption will rise to keep the
output the same, even more rapidly draining the battery. I would suggest:
1)
Would it be possible to start with one of the live CD Linux distributions, add
the K3 Utility and a folder/directory with the firmware files, then either
re-burn it all to a new, bootable CD, or (depending on the distribution) a thumb
drive?
That way, it wouldn't matter what was on the PC - as
Hi, Tony. If you're trying to use the RigBlaster for a digital mode
interface, it's my understanding that it's not needed. The K3 has a built-in
interface that eliminates the need for the Blaster.
If anyone is using this combination of hardware, please advise the interface
cable
Congratulations, James! It's a definite accomplishment, and one to be proud of.
Heck, I even put it on my resume! (I found out after being hired in my current
position that my boss is a Tech-class, so having an Extra-class was a definite
brownie point.)
73,
Mike
KW1ND
What step of the manual's instructions doesn't seem to be working for you? I'm
sure there are several here willing to help, but it won't do you or us any good
to just recite the manual if some part of it isn't clear for you.
For some reason nothing came about OUR query about the internal clock
FWIW, it's on pg 46 in my original Rev C1 (11/18/07) manual, so it's been around
for quite a while.
??? Calibration Procedures on page 48 of the Rev D1 Manual has Wattmeter
Cal right after Synthesizer Cal and just before Transmitter Gain Cal. Maybe
you either have an old manual or missed it.
Have a computer headset with mic? Plug it in the back, turn on the bias (if
needed, but I think most computer mics are electret so need it) and give it a
try. If this interests you, try searching the archives for computer headset for
additional info.
I'm guessing that means hooking up a
I've purchased an APP pack or two that instead of having real roll pins (as in a
flat piece of metal rolled over on itself, having a bit of spring tension in the
process), just a piece of tiny metal tubing. While these slipped in place, they
also tended to slip out of place.
I'm guessing
There was a LOT of discussion on this list for this very topic last year. Run a
search on the archives to uncover everyone's thoughts.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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Mike Miller wrote:
The list of Operating Tips on web site..
RTTY Operation without a computer..
number 3. saysHold TEXT DEC and turn the text decoder ??
what is the test decoder??.
The Text Decoder is the hold function of the 0 (zero) button, labeled CWT for
the tap function.
73,
Mike
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga.
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end. I have a West
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered
You either crimp or Solder - not both
While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering. I find it rather odd
to make such a firm distinction.
If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers
Now it's my turn (again) to ask what is probably a stupid question.
From all the literature, the K3 is said to save filter settings in each memory
entry, both general purpose and quick. I *know* I saved the desired bandwidth
for each of my 10 general purpose and 10 quick memories.
Now,
Good evening, DW. Yes, this has been asked before (and is a logical question to
me), and made it into the FAQ. I found 2 topics which apply. No need to fill
email in-boxes with what's already on the web, so just the links:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3FAQ.htm#auxbus
Good morning, Lee. Per the C1-3 Errata (Feb 1), CONFIG:TUN PWR was added to
control the power level at which the TUNE button works, so that function is
controllable.
However, the same errata states that, Note: TUN PWR does not pertain to ATU
TUNE, which always uses 5 or 10 W and is
Beware! This came up early last summer. Read this posting on the poor quality
incompatibility of the Tyco copies.
http://www.nabble.com/Anderson-%22Power-Pole%22-connectors...-to14078568.html#a14078568
Once again, nothing beats the original.
Jim Sheldon wrote:
A friend of mine found them
What rig? Your subject line message don't mention it.
Kirk Brown wrote:
When I switched from straight key to my paddles, I found one side of the
paddles would not work (in my case the dits).
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:
We have been using this pin out for microphones on our rigs since we
introduced the K2 nine years ago.
And if nothing else, the K3 manual has been out since September or October.
While we all waited (and continue to) for our K3s, there's been plenty of
Oh, man, now I've gone and created a cross-continent incident. I wasn't worried
about the KXV3, as I knew I'd get it one way or another. My remark was based on
a private email I had with another soon-to-be K3 owner who was also missing the
transverter interface from his initial invoice. My
Good information, Ron. Also, true deep cycle batteries are considerably more
expensive than automotive batteries - you're paying for the lead. Most
batteries in common stores labeled deep cycle aren't - it's just marketing.
With only a few exceptions (such as one of the Optima line), my rule
Not to drag up more ill feelings, but where is Elecraft at in the last few days
as far as order dates being ready to ship? I know about the status page; I'm
looking for who has been contacted in the last few days. Per the status page,
my 6/6 order date should be coming up by the end of this
Well, interesting. As Greg suggested, I'll definitely try it before I worry
about wiring up an adapter. That was handy of Aptos to use a stereo jack with
the ring not connected, thus keeping a stereo plug from shorting the ring to
ground if the jack were mono, and yet allowing a mono plug to
So you think your K3 got special treatment? Check out this delivery method:
http://ducie2008.dl1mgb.com/news/index.php
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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If I understand the system correctly, the first production run still has to
include everyone who ordered in that time frame, but didn't place a deposit.
Even when they hit May 14th or so of deposit orders (whatever the cutoff date
was), they will then go back 3 weeks start shipping all
OK guys, thanks. That is what I had suspected, as I didn't see it diagrammed
the way I was hoping to use it. That's OK, though - I can still configure the
K3 to operate the way I want it to via the KXV3. Gotta love modularity.
Barry N1EU wrote:
Mike, I don't think the K3 will do what you
I'm looking at the options for a RX-only antenna on a stock K3. I understand
that the primary way of doing this is with the KXV3. However, since I don't
have a need for the transverter interfaces, or running a 2nd rig off the RX ANT
OUT jack, I think the KAT3 will be more useful in the long
Ken - is it possible to have the Elecraft logo embroidered in? Of course, that
would require copyright approval from Aptos, but I think it would go a long way
towards making the covers unique.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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Hello,
How is Elecraft pronounced?
Per their website, like Elegant and Craft.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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I have the above items for sale at http://home.comcast.net/~slackfan/index.html
Please reply directly, and not via the lists.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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Thanks for the information, everyone. I was just curious, as the FAQ only states
that coverage begins at 500 kHz. As with many things in life, that can be read
more than one way (as I alluded to in my original posting).
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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This had always been my understanding of the system. I'm in the 2nd run, and
didn't put in a deposit at that time because, 1) I knew I wouldn't get the rig
any faster, and 2) I just wanted to hang onto my money for a little longer ;-)
I think a lot of the problem has been too many posters early
Hit up Radio Shack in the morning - they have a kit with mat strap.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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You might look into a product designed to run conduit on top of walls. I've
seen it on concrete block plaster walls commonly, but I think it would work in
your case, too. One brand is Wiremold (I think), and Home Depot Lowes carry
it. I'm sure lots of other suppliers do too.
There are a
Absolutely. I sold my primary HF rig (FT-857D) several months ago to raise cash
for the K3, and my only rig since then has been my KX1. Handy rig, but I really
wish it would do 17 and/or 15 meters.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Am I the only person on earth who wishes that there
Just for future info, I use an 1120 for my KX1, though I think the 1060 Micro
case will also accommodate it.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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What was the rationale behind a cutting edge (2007-08) product such as the
Elecraft K3 being supplied with a RS232 interface in stead of a USB port?
When I built my current PC a year ago, I specifically looked for a motherboard
with a serial port. There are still a variety of products out there
Since I was one of those who brought up the DeoxIT / ProGold usage, I'd like to
post the following report I received from another list member. I hope he
doesn't mind, as he'll remain nameless, and I've removed a thing or two from the
report which might identify his major aerospace company. I
I should have stated that, other than names and two pictures, that was the
entirety of the report I received.
Also, as Don pointed out, there's undoubtedly a lot more to the story than the
short summary report I was forwarded, so it's still left up to the individual
user to decide for themselves.
Thanks to all for the information on compression tools for the RG6 cable.
Now to score some direct burial cable scraps from the cable guy...
73
Mike
KW1ND
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First of all, I have to congratulate the posters in the earlier thread on line
loss, etc., for prompting me to actually get my calculator ARRL Handbook out
and read up on transmission line loss, dB calculations, etc.
My interest has come up as I'm planning on installing a flag pole vertical in
I (and others) have been hoping for something like this since the K2 came out.
Elecraft introduced the T1, which is fine for QRP use, but sometimes you've
gotta crank the power up a bit.
If Elecraft would introduce a remote tuner based on the KAT100 or the KAT3
priced competitively, I think it
I know this topic has come up before, but is anyone actually using DeoxIT Gold
on their K3? (See http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.292/.f)
Past discussions here have stated that it's the appropriate product in their
lineup to use, but is anyone actually using it? Is it worthwhile? If
Just out of curiosity (as I sit here revamping my station's power system), what
gauge and length is the power cable supplied with the K3?
I see it has Power Poles installed on one end - is the other unterminated?
Thanks and 73,
Mike
KW1ND
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If this is the same stuff I'm thinking of, in addition to Rug Gripper as
another fellow posted, it's available in smaller rolls in the housewares section
of stores like Wal-Mart. It's marketed as a type of drawer liner. I've also
seen it in the hardware stores, and I also once saw a sleeping bag
Looking over the K3 assembly equipment list, I see that I have everything but a
static dissipative pad. This is for bench use, so a 24x24 up to 24x36 or so
pad would be sufficient. Googling around, I find models from $15 to over $100.
I only need it sporadically for hobby use, so don't want to
/searchdetail.asp?productID=451
de ken n9vv
Mike B wrote:
Looking over the K3 assembly equipment list, I see that I have
everything but a
static dissipative pad. This is for bench use, so a 24x24 up to
24x36 or so
pad would be sufficient. Googling around, I find models from $15 to
over $100
Pardon my foolishness - I see the description states it has a grounding lead.
I've seen similar products elsewhere, but for $10 - $20 more, so this might be
the ticket.
Thanks, Ken.
73,
Mike KW1ND
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Another list member emailed me that Radio Shack carries a kit for $24.99. It is
their number 276-2370 and is 26 by 24 inches.
73,
Mike KW1ND
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If it's truly a gel cell (and not sealed lead acid)
Gel cells are considered to be SLAs (sealed lead acid). I assume you meant a
flooded lead acid, which has the ability to vent if charged quickly, as well
as have the water and/or electrolyte replenished.
Among other types, gel cells
This story is a couple years old, and has probably already had a bazillion
comments on this list in its day, but I just found it and thought it was
interesting.
http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/archive/2005/May/15/biz/stories/01biz.htm
There are even vague hints about the K3 in it.
73,
Mike
For some reason the only can design
yellow/orange displays - they all look the same.
While I have since sold it, I do feel compelled to state that the FT-857 (
FT-897) has many colors selectable, in oranges, blues, reds and probably another
one or two I'm forgetting.
73,
Mike KW1ND
I've had this about a year, and haven't used it in almost that long (didn't
really get into using digital modes). It worked fine, and is in great shape.
West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new. This is the data plug version,
with USB computer connection. It will run any data mode, as well as
The RigBlaster has been sold.
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Help:
Cleaning up a little...
For Sale:
1) West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new. This is the data plug version,
with USB computer connection. It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if your
rig allows it. It includes the CAT cable for Yaesu FT-100, -100D, -817, -857(D)
and -897(D). Other
All 3 books are sold, but the RigBlaster is still looking for a new home.
Cleaning up a little...
For Sale:
1) West Mountain Radio RigBlaster, like new. This is the data plug version,
with USB computer connection. It will run any data mode, as well as CAT if
your
rig allows it. It
OK - my experience with digital modes is really limited, so pardon me
for asking me this probably lame question.
Since the K3 has an isolated sound card interface, this will
*completely* replace the interface I currently use to run digital from
my PC to an HF rig?
I'm pretty sure it does, but
Mine has always done it too, and I think I've read of others commenting
on it as well.
73
Mike, KW1ND
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Gentlemen, not to be a list cop, but good grief. Eric closed this
thread over a month ago. Let it die, or take it to some Yahoo group.
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I don't know what the fascination is with zero beating the guy
you're calling.
Although my elmer told me of similar tales when he was starting out, he
taught me that the purpose of at least near zero-beating was to not
take up more bandwidth than necessary. You're not running a full-duplex
Sounds to me like you got real lucky. I'm sure that some capacity has
been lost if you initially discovered it at 7 volts, but it seems as
though it's recovered pretty well, considering.
I'm sure others will pop in with a better answer to your question (as in
quick easy), but I will say that if
While I can't speak from any knowledge of the Rhino brand, considering
its low price, there's a very good chance it's from China. The price v.
performance question on batteries has been bugging me at work lately.
We use 104 AH Concorde AGM batteries, which have risen in the last few
years from
Mike wrote:
Are there any recommendations for wire rather than the suggested Wireman 541?
The manual suggests WM 541, but also says it's #26 wire. The WM site says
it's #14.
Maybe there's a typo there, or maybe the Wireman's changed his numbers.
His site currently lists the 26 ga. as
Mike Cizek W3MC wrote:
What size Pelican case do folks use for the KX-1?? I seem to remember
it is the 1060
Yes, there's a web site out there with pix of the 1060, but I chose to
go with the 1120. It's a small version of their larger cases, without a
clear body. Plenty of room for extras,
Just to clarify - from what I've read, the K3 (since it doesn't count as
a kit you're alluding to), is also entirely of US origin. Obviously,
it's impossible to get all the individual components from the US, but
the design, PCB manufacture as well as SMD-mounting, etc., are all done
in
Thanks for the interest (and couple of scammers...), but both units have
been sold and are on their way to a happy home in Illinois.
73,
Mike
KW1ND
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The items are still for sale.
FOR SALE: K2 # 185 and KAT100, preferably together but I'm flexible. My
K2 has given me several years of great, dependable service but it's time
to free up some assets to try other avenues. My K2 has never been
abused in any way (such as extreme SWR, over voltage,
I apologize if this posts twice, but it seems to have never made it to
either list.
FOR SALE: K2 # 185 and KAT100, preferably together but I'm flexible. My
K2 has given me several years of great, dependable service but it's time
to free up some assets to try other avenues. My K2 has never been
Scott Walker wrote:
I am looking for a vendor for the #26 AWG Teflon coated, silver plated wire
that is often recommended on this list for portable KX1 antennas. Help me narrow it
down. If you have bought the stuff, who did you buy it from?
http://radioworks.com also carries it.
--
73,
David N. wrote:
Hello all. I just installed the KBT2 battery kit in my
K2. I have a 5 watt unisolar flex panel
Same setup here.
The design of the KBT2 does not regulate voltage - it just regulates a
small current to float charge the battery. It's specifically designed
for an external,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Not exactly for your back-packing needs. YIKES!
PVX-1040T Concorde 12 Volt 100 Amp Hour, BCI Group 27, valve regulated sealed lead acid battery. 65 LBS
Naw, but that's not what the original poster was looking for. Switching
to these batteries is actually a
Something to keep in mind when you desire your battery to have a
relatively long life. Taking out 50% of the capacity will, in general,
seriously shorten a battery's life as compared to only drawing it down
to 80%. Most renewable energy systems shoot for the 70 - 80% mark.
Since we're
Yeah, life gets in the way sometimes. My first recommendation is to
remove the battery from the K2 - no need to tempt fate. A sealed lead
acid battery, in reasonable health, can probably go up to 6 months at
normal room temps before needing to be recharged. Charge it fully, pull
it out
While doing a variety of updates for ol' K2 #185, I went searching for
the highly recommended Edsyn AS196 solder sucker. By far the best deal
I could find was from EAE Sales (http://eaesales.com/items.htm) for $16.
Bruce was friendly prompt. Though he deals in a lot of surplus
equipment,
I recently purchased the K2 PLL Temp Comp mod kit, and it came with Rev
D (3 Feb 04) instructions. A couple places in the instructions mention
replacing L31 (originally 10uH, which my rig has) with a 12 uH inductor.
Yet the parts list states it should be a 10 uH, and I was shipped a 10 uH.
Just a quick note, and I apologize if this has been mentioned before.
I've been fiddling with Baudline (spectrum analysis software for Linux,
among other OS's), but couldn't figure out how to get the simple
frequency markers like you can get in Spectrogram.
For kicks, I tried running
1400 an older serial #? Young whipper snapper!
Hello all, I am considering the purchase of an older K2 with a 1400's
serial number.
--
73,
Mike Boice, KW1ND K2 # 185 (in the middle of A to B mods)
Karns, TN
Behold the power of the penguin
Reclaim Your Inbox!
David A. Belsley wrote:
would like to get an agm battery with at least a 100 aH rating (group
31), preferably a Concorde
Ironically, I've been shopping for the exact same batteries over the
last couple of days for work. I don't know shipping, and I have no
affiliation with them, but check
In a painfully slow, round-about way, I'm getting a Cebik 44' doublet
put up. I'm curious if anyone is familiar with the ICE brand of
lightning arrestors
(http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/ice/impulse1.html#2)?
I'm familiar with PolyPhaser products, too, but the ICE equipment sounds
Thanks for the replies, fellas. I had overlooked the impedance range of
the arrestor; LB's figures show 2, possibly 3 bands out of range of the
arrestor with his computer model. With my luck, it would be more like 5
or 6 bands ;-)
I may instead go with a simpler spark plug model, just to
For Sale: Like new ARRL Stealth Amateur Radio book by Kirk
Kleinschmidt, NT0Z. Chapters cover stealth antennas, mobile operation,
qrp rigs, handling interference and more. Cover price $15 plus shipping,
my price $12 including first class shipping to US (slightly more to
anywhere else).
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