As Bob has pointed out, power drop is not the factor in the voltage to
an Elecraft transceiver.
No matter what the supply voltage may be, the K2/K3/K3S/KX2/KX3 will
attempt to produce the output power requested by the power knob setting.
Those transceivers actually measure the output power
times less output power than a 0.1v loss?
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 1:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
Actually 1 ohm of total resistance
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
Actually 1 ohm of total resistance from a 14V source and a 20A load would be
more than excessive. More like a 0.01 ohm is 0.20 volt drop for 20 amps. I x
R = E
View it as 3 series resistors across a 14 V source. R-1 is the DC
Actually 1 ohm of total resistance from a 14V source and a 20A load
would be more than excessive. More like a 0.01 ohm is 0.20 volt drop
for 20 amps. I x R = E
View it as 3 series resistors across a 14 V source. R-1 is the DC POS
lead resistance, the radio which is a variable resistance
For measuring voltage drop.. I would measure the voltage drop from the Plus
lead of the Power supply to the plus lead on the back of the radio while in
full load TX (FM or RTTY).
It should be less than 0.1 or 0.2 of a volt.
Then, do the same on the Negative Lead. You should see the same answer
Better precision than a battery can be found by using a precision
voltage regulator. Take a look at the Precision Voltage Source on my
website www.w3fpr.com.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/27/2019 5:53 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh battery.
A simple reality test for a volt meter is to measure a fresh
battery. Zinc/carbon or Alkaline should show about 1.56 volts.
(I learned this test from the bias setting instructions for a
Dynakit Stereo 70 amplifier. They built the amp so the test
point read 1.56 volts when the bias is correctly
to 5.0 or left alone?
Thanks.
- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, NCDXC Secretary
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
On Behalf Of Keith Trinity WE6R
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 15:25
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage
t; To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
>
> Notes for all;
> Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF". If at 5.00 it is probably at
> default.
> (if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR
the
> in
Notes for all;
Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF". If at 5.00 it is probably at
default.
(if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR
the internal metering. Set to 5.00 or read on).
(I check this during checkout, so if it has been in for Service, it
should be
Concur.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Vic Rosenthal
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 9:34 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
I have a Fluke DVM also. I gulped when I
I have a Fluke DVM also. I gulped when I bought it some 30+ years ago, but it
was a good decision. It’s like a Snap-On wrench. It just feels right and never
let me down.
Victor 4X6GP
> On 25 Dec 2019, at 4:29, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>
> I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now.
Yes true. However seeing they way some hams configure their stations,
building or modifying and implementing a power supply with voltage
sensing, is of serious questionable nature. Likewise, in conditions
where power supplies are buried under the desk. One needs to see the
volt meter when
I have a Fluke 87...for a couple of decades now. It does it all well.
Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW
Sent from my iPhone, cjack
> On Dec 23, 2019, at 10:31 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>
> A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station. Use it to determine
> if the others are accurate.
Typically, there are small resistors at the power supply between the output and
sense terminals to prevent the voltage from rising if a sense wire opens up.
73,
Scott K9MA
--
Scott Ellington
--- via iPad
> On Dec 24, 2019, at 5:39 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>
> Yes, but one
Yes, but one screw-up on the remote sensing system and it will take
advantage of the voltage overhead on the pass transistors and likely
wipe out every piece of equipment. I strongly do not advise it.
And you make a valid point for NOT using remote sensing.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On
With the Astron supplies, the 723 regulator does have provision for
remote sensing. And with a bit of work and some extra wiring and
components one can have remote sensing.
I would suggest NOT doing so as remote sensing become "inputs" to the
723 regulator chip and any noise or RF on the
There can be stability issues with remote sensing. Also RF susceptibility.
Take care!
73,
Scott K9MA
--
Scott Ellington
--- via iPad
> On Dec 24, 2019, at 4:03 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
> That would be a neat thing to do, but DO NOT do that on a power supply that
> is
That would be a neat thing to do, but DO NOT do that on a power supply
that is connected to anything other than the rig you are sensing from.
The voltage on other devices connected to the power supply will increase
when you transmit on the rig to which the sense wires are connected.
Use a
--Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Karin Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 3:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of
I have thought about doing that. Just requires a 2 wire hookup with small
gauge wire. But I run all of my small items like the remoterig box, LP-pan
box, VHF/UHF rig and so forth off of the main supply and if I have a larger
than anticipated voltage drop on rig power cable the voltage on the other
First, it would require some basic technical skill ... (;-)
73
K0PP
On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 13:20 Karin Johnson wrote:
> Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
> As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
> wiring. Many so called
Why hasn't anyone used remote sensing at the radio voltage input?
As far as I know all of the Astron supplies don't have external sense
wiring. Many so called professional grade high current supplies provide
For external connection of the voltage sense back to the regulator chip.
I've toyed with
A good, known accurate DVM is an asset to any station. Use it to determine if
the others are accurate. There are several good brands available. A DVM that
is not accurate is worse than no DVM at all.
My choice of many years ago is my Fluke 77. After I tapped it with too much
voltage,
I do not use a “ground” at the station. I don’t find or see that it’s needed.
My station has a 4 wire #10 service from the breaker panel to the operating
position. The breakers are single 20A units. This gives me 240V for the amp
and a duplex off of each leg. Thus I maintain a common
The reliable place to measure the voltage at the K3x is using the supply
voltage display meter in the radio. I was surprised to find mine was
significantly low. I thought it was voltage drop but changing the
supply cable didn't make much difference.
Turns out the Astron power supply was
On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
> I also added a dedicated ground between the ground screw on the back of
> the radio to the ground screw on the power supply.
That's for "bonding". Where do you pick up "ground" - at the radio, at
the PS, or at some other point?
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
On 12/22/2019 9:44 AM, Bob McGraw wrote:
Rid your station of the DC power strip. It will cause problems. More
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip. The radios should
be connected direct to the power supply.
Yes and no. My station has direct short runs from a 100Ah Bioenne
I used to run my K3S with an auto turn on Rigrunner which I liked very much,
convenient. But the voltage drop was concerning. I go direct now to the rig.
Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW
Sent from my iPhone, cjack
> On Dec 22, 2019, at 10:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
> Tony,
>
> While those figures
I still connect all of the equipment which used walwarts to my power
supply. I made provisions to have many many DC connections, as
described below, to my supplies. All of my DC power leads have the
correct size crimp ring terminal for the application. Never use stranded
wire around a
In my current station layout the rack-mounted Astron-50M is separated
from the radio shelf, so I need a 15-foot run of cable. The Astron
runs 14.2 vdc. I have 13.69 v at the main power strip (handles 10ga
wiring). The primary dc power cable is No. 6 welding cable (more
flexible than std No.
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
Rid your station of the DC power strip. It will cause problems. More
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip. The radios should be
connected direct to the power supply.
As to the Astron SS-30M, I have 3
22, 2019 11:21 AM
To: tony@verizon.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage drop
Tony,
While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be better if
you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather than from the power
Rid your station of the DC power strip. It will cause problems. More
connections in the path will be more DC voltage drip. The radios should
be connected direct to the power supply.
As to the Astron SS-30M, I have 3 of those. They are great. I did find
the provided DC connections where the
Tony,
While those figures with the 10 gauge wire are good, they would be
better if you ran the K3 power directly from the power supply rather
than from the power distribution strip.
Each connection will have some voltage drop, so in addition to
increasing the wiring gauge, reducing the
I have been using an Astron SS-30M power supply for several years to feed
two K3's.
I use 12ga wire from the power supply to an MFJ-4012 power strip. From the
power strip I use 12ga wire to each K3. Total length from power supply to a
K3 was 8'. Each K3 is set for 100W on 30M into a dummy load.
Glad you raised that point, Brian. In my Sunday school classes I ask the
question: what does the fuse protect? It's a revelation to all when I
give the right answer.
On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can lead to a severe shock
hazard and I'm guessing that in the 110V
--- David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Glad you raised that point, Brian. In my Sunday
school classes I ask the
question: what does the fuse protect? It's a
revelation to all when I
give the right answer.
On our 240V distribution system, a melted cable can
lead to a severe shock
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the analysis. You pointed out several
things I was unaware of related to these types of
fuses. Nice to learn something new!
I'm in the process of redoing the power distribution
in my shack, so will take this info into account.
Fortunately, it's been a while since I've blown
On Jun 16, 2008, at 9:59 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
A regular fuse should blow at 2.6 x the rating within 30s, in other
words very slowly. It's only a short circuit that will normally
blow a new fuse. Have not seen any data on old fuses which might
get metal
Ron,
I've been using my K2 cable with my K3, including
contests, without an issue.
Considering what the KPA100 will do with my 160M
setup, in the way of drawing current, I think there is
enough wiggle room not to worry too much.
The K3 barely gets warm when I run :o)
73,
Julius
Julius
Hi Julius:
I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running the K3
at 100 watts. Like the K2, I suspect the current draw varies a bit depending
upon the rig, the actual parameters of some of the transistors, etc. That's
normal, according to the K3 specs, which rate the current
anyway...
David
G3UNA
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2008/06/16 Mon PM 06:52:16 BST
To: 'Elecraft Discussion List' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Power cable question
Hi Julius:
I measure just over 20 Amps under some bands and conditions running
I haven't been able to locate this information in the documentation, so perhaps
a kind soul could oblige?
In anticipation of a K3/100 kit's arrival, I would like to know the length of
power cord supplied and also whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable
with the K3/100 (i.e. do the
...whether the K2/100 power cable is interchangeable with
the K3/100 (i.e. do the Andersons have the same orientation
on K2 and K3)?
Yes, they have the same orientation. I initially ran my K3 with my
K2/100 cable.
73,
Lyle KK7P
___
Elecraft
Me too, but I realized that the K3 draws somewhat more current than the
K2/100. Depending upon the band antenna, etc., the total current can exceed
the rating of the rating of the 20-amp fuse in the K2/100 power cord.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
...whether the K2/100 power cable is
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at
least in the kit?
Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
___
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: [Elecraft] K3 power cable Does the K3
come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at least in the
kit? Tnx Tom CX7TT ___
Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a
subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber
Tom,
You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one. They give you the
connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders. You will have to crimp and
solder.
Lee
K0WA
In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
have any Common Sense - get some
The connector was *not* installed on the cable in my K3 kit.
73, Ken K3IU
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at
least in the kit?
Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to:
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga.
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end. I have a West
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered
Hey Guys,
Tnx for the quick response...I have no problem with soldering as I did
build a K2 a few years ago...My just delivered K3 is sitting at a
friend's house in FL and I will be there this Friday evening. My friend
does not use power poles so wanted to know if I would be able to set up
You either crimp or Solder - not both
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think
we're not. In either case, the idea is quite staggering.
-Arthur C Clarke, science fiction writer (1917- )
On 17 Mar 2008, at 15:50, Lee Buller wrote:
Tom,
You
You either crimp or Solder - not both
While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering. I find it rather odd
to make such a firm distinction.
If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers
You are welcome to do both - as long as you don't compromise the
contact fit inside the housing.
As to whether its worst or even advisable to do both...
I've had people tell me that soldering hardens the point where the
wire joins the contact and effectively weakens it, because strands can
You either crimp or Solder - not both
I crimp and solder. But an explanation is in order:
I begin by crimping the PowerPole connector to the stranded wire. When the
crimp is complete, I then apply silver bearing solder ONLY to the very tip
of the stranded wire where it butts up against the
You either crimp or Solder - not both
Why not? I've done both on all my crimped connections for years. Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength. Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further
Ed Muns wrote:
You either crimp or Solder - not both
Why not? I've done both on all my crimped connections for years. Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength. Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the
OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
on the wire to make the power cable.
Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
power cables?
- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 (soon) -
The assembled K3's come with an assembled power cable, you just need
to finish the battery/power supply side.
Jeff
On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Darwin, Keith
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
on the wire to make the power
I would far prefer a factory pre-assembled power cable, given the expense of
the correct crimp tool and I far prefer crimping to soldering to a cable with
no strain relief.
ps I've probably crimped and soldered 100s of thousands of wires. But this is
not a crimp tool in my armoury.
David
Don't over complicate it. I just used a plain old wire crimper and solder.
If you want some more strain relief, put some heat shrink tubing over the
connector and for about 6 inches up the wire. Use big tubing at the connector
and overlap it over smaller tubing up the wire. You might have
10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable
You either crimp or Solder - not both
While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason
why
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering. I find it rather
odd
to make such a firm
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